Rather than piggy back this onto the other threads, I wanted to create a new thread discussing the front sway bar end links for the Taurus / SHO. It looks like the factory links on my 2014 SHO are the MEF-162 (2010 part number) with the full plastic cap for the joints. The Ford parts catalog now shows new part numbers for the 2010-2017 SHO:
GG1Z-5K483-A (MEF-353) Left
GG1Z-5K484-A (MEF-352) Right
MEF-353 also shows up as an upper ball joint for old pickup trucks. This is the first time I've seen a possible re-use for a Ford part number, or perhaps its just a description error. But Rockauto doesn't list MEF-353 for the Taurus.
As you can see in the photographs, my bent/snapped link is the older design with a thinner/shorter joint design and the plastic bearing cap. The revised 2016 part is Made in Japan with a different bearing cap design and the joint is a longer/thicker design. I think I'm going to give the revised parts a try. The fact they revised it suggests they probably knew about the issues with the old design, kind of like the recalled fuel pump control module that was then quietly revised again.
Does anyone know why we have different Left/Right front endlinks? Is it the length or the angle between the 2 joints?
The last time I observed Ford produce revised front endlinks was on my 2007 Mustang GT. The stock links were very much like these revised links, but the Mustang's revised links are the current 07-14 GT500 front endlinks (all aluminum with THK joints) that look like longer versions of our stock rear links.
I've got both the updated front end links for my 10 MKS somewhere in my garage. I've been meaning to put them in, but never got around to it. You're correct that they are two different parts for the left and right, but not exactly sure why. They look exactly the same from what i can remember. I'd guess the angle is slightly different, but other than that, not exactly sure why they're two different parts. I can get them out and compare them if that helps.
Left front end link (GG1Z-5K483-A) on the left and right front end link (GG1Z-5K484-A) on the right. Angle is different.
Quote from: pmezo33 on February 19, 2017, 01:40:37 PM
Left front end link (GG1Z-5K483-A) on the left and right front end link (GG1Z-5K484-A) on the right. Angle is different.
It seems they improved the overall quality of the end links. :)
The passenger side suspension has always been a bit more expensive AFAIK. Z
What's that on the end of the joints for the Japanese end links? Just 6 plastic dots/circles?
ZSHO: They're like $8-$10 each, about the same price for either side.
Quote from: metroplex on February 19, 2017, 02:55:47 PM
What's that on the end of the joints for the Japanese end links? Just 6 plastic dots/circles?
ZSHO: They're like $8-$10 each, about the same price for either side.
My bad a few cents more per side,anyways great overall informed discussion. Z
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2013/ford/taurus/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/stabilizer-bar-and-components-scat (http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2013/ford/taurus/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/stabilizer-bar-and-components-scat)
Quote from: metroplex on February 19, 2017, 02:55:47 PM
What's that on the end of the joints for the Japanese end links? Just 6 plastic dots/circles?
ZSHO: They're like $8-$10 each, about the same price for either side.
Yeah, they're just plastic circles. Not exactly sure what the point of that design is. Maybe they add a couple horsepower.
I wish Ford would just switch to the THK endlinks for the fronts, or maybe have a chat with their chassis engineer to learn more about why they did this. I also wonder who the Japanese manufacturer is for these endlinks.
This thread motivated me to finally do my end links and it looks like they needed a change. Job was pretty simple. Bottom nut was a little tedious because of how little space you have to play with, but not that big of a deal. Here's basically how to do it.
Loosen the bottom nut first with a 21 mm long wrench. The space is tight to get in there, but you can just above the control arm. Once the bolt is initially loosened, the ball joint will spin with the nut. Just hold the end of the bolt with the 10 mm wrench while you loosen the bolt with the 21 mm wrench. There's not much space so they'll be small turns at a time.
The top bolt is much easier. Hit it with my impact and it was off in 2 seconds. There's a lot more room up top if you don't have an impact and just use a regular socket wrench. Didn't even have to use the 10 mm up top. It just popped right off.
When you've got the bolts off, just remove the end link and put the new one on. Do the process in reverse. I torqued the top bolt to spec (111 ft/lbs) and the bottom one as tight as i could get it. No way you're torquing it unless you remove the control arm and i wasn't doing that. Just did it as tight as i possibly could.
Here's the old end link and the new one with my trusty assistant in the background. The boot was completely ripped on the old one.
did you change the end links with the car jacked up and the wheels hanging (removed) ? both at the same time or individually ??
does it matter ?
Quote from: 68_GT on February 22, 2017, 01:23:02 PM
did you change the end links with the car jacked up and the wheels hanging (removed) ? both at the same time or individually ??
does it matter ?
Had the whole front end elevated and on jack stands.
ok so wheels hanging right ?
Quote from: 68_GT on February 27, 2017, 02:55:18 PM
ok so wheels hanging right ?
I had the wheels hanging when I did mine. It did not put more stress on the link.
Car elevated and wheels hanging. The links are very easy to remove and put back in once the bolts are removed like this.
Why not upgrade the links for the POWERGRID ones ??!! that's what I have now on the SHO and you will feel a big difference !!!!
That's what I ended up buying, but they are very overpriced. Also, I have no idea why Chip opted for 12mm endlinks with bushings to fit the 14mm holes when THK males 14mm endlinks. I haven't had time to install them because the weather hasn't cooperated.
Quote from: joe raptor on March 22, 2017, 10:49:32 AM
Why not upgrade the links for the POWERGRID ones ??!! that's what I have now on the SHO and you will feel a big difference !!!!
What are these power grid ones? Went looking on their website
and couldn't find one for a 2010+?
Quote from: kpad09 on February 25, 2018, 11:08:39 AM
Quote from: joe raptor on March 22, 2017, 10:49:32 AM
Why not upgrade the links for the POWERGRID ones ??!! that's what I have now on the SHO and you will feel a big difference !!!!
What are these power grid ones? Went looking on their website
and couldn't find one for a 2010+?
PowerGrid-
Front .Z :)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-17-Ford-Taurus-SHO-Adjustable-Front-Sway-Bar-Links/311637093905?hash=item488f04ae11:g:IwgAAOxyuCJRe6wi&vxp=mtr (https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-17-Ford-Taurus-SHO-Adjustable-Front-Sway-Bar-Links/311637093905?hash=item488f04ae11:g:IwgAAOxyuCJRe6wi&vxp=mtr)
Rearhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/10-17-Ford-Taurus-SHO-Adjustable-Rear-Sway-Bar-Links/311637095784?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3D3133af4c46944835ba8fc6674505ce94%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311637093905%26itm%3D311637095784&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-17-Ford-Taurus-SHO-Adjustable-Rear-Sway-Bar-Links/311637095784?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3D3133af4c46944835ba8fc6674505ce94%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311637093905%26itm%3D311637095784&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
Bought and installed the Powergrids, felt minimal improvement, and sold the SHO eventually. BTW the new endlinks never solved the weird rubbing sound in the morning.
But my new 2018 Explorer does something similar when steering away in the morning or after a cold start. There's a rubbing/clunk sound and then I never heard it for the rest of the drive. My Fusion Sport doesn't do it, so it must be D3/D4 related and doesn't affect CD4.
Digression:
BTW the Fusion Sport is a POS, IMHO, compared to the SHO. A lot of SHO "experts" seemed to think otherwise on the Fusion Sport forums, but the Fusion Sport understeers/plows like a pig while my SHO had more of a tendency to over-rotate when pushed hard before encountering understeer. I checked some of the timeslips for tuned FSports and they're in the high 12s, while the SHO's can easily do low 12s with tune-only. The only benefit/advantage of the Fusion Sport is that its platform is shinier and newer with more updated interior layout/design that is really aimed at Europe/Global markets. I'll take D3/D4 over CD4 any day of the week. Ford is going to CD6 for 2020-up Explorer and 2021-up Mustang, so it is a RWD platform with AWD capability, and accepts the 10-speed automatic. It's likely to be used for the next Edge and Fusion as well, although they canceled the re-design for the Fusion.
Quote from: metroplex on February 25, 2018, 01:30:26 PM
Bought and installed the Powergrids, felt minimal improvement, and sold the SHO eventually. BTW the new endlinks never solved the weird rubbing sound in the morning.
But my new 2018 Explorer does something similar when steering away in the morning or after a cold start. There's a rubbing/clunk sound and then I never heard it for the rest of the drive. My Fusion Sport doesn't do it, so it must be D3/D4 related and doesn't affect CD4.
Digression:
BTW the Fusion Sport is a POS, IMHO, compared to the SHO. A lot of SHO "experts" seemed to think otherwise on the Fusion Sport forums, but the Fusion Sport understeers/plows like a pig while my SHO had more of a tendency to over-rotate when pushed hard before encountering understeer. I checked some of the timeslips for tuned FSports and they're in the high 12s, while the SHO's can easily do low 12s with tune-only. The only benefit/advantage of the Fusion Sport is that its platform is shinier and newer with more updated interior layout/design that is really aimed at Europe/Global markets. I'll take D3/D4 over CD4 any day of the week. Ford is going to CD6 for 2020-up Explorer and 2021-up Mustang, so it is a RWD platform with AWD capability, and accepts the 10-speed automatic. It's likely to be used for the next Edge and Fusion as well, although they canceled the re-design for the Fusion.
Thanks for the comparison of the two vehicles!
To me, the idea of a 10 speed is just asking for too many problems and overkill to boot. I think a double over-drive 6th gear for many cars today is still a good idea to get the highway fuel economy desired. The Fiesta ST is a good example of that since I had one. It got 35 mpg highway at 65 at 2700 rpm. Double over-drive 6th would've put it over 40 mpg at around 2100 rpm. 10 speed tranny in these new cars ludicrous imo. Waaaay too much shifting going on.
The 10-speed is going to be the same joint-venture GM/Ford 10-speed that is used on the ZL1, 2018 F-series, 2018-up Mustang GT, etc... The Chevy version shifts faster than the McLaren's automated manual. I heard the Mustang GT's 10-speed auto (the interweb users seem to refer to it as the A10) has some quirky delays with the stock tune. But so far that thing has been a beast in terms of handling high amounts of torque/abuse without any issues. Going to this 10-speed and RWD system means the "AWD" SUVs/cars may get a much better transfer case instead of the mediocre PTU unit with 4 oz of gear oil that gets cooked, and possibly better fuel economy by disconnecting the front axles completely. We have a viscous coupling RDU that I suspect still robs quite a bit of power even with no power going to the back wheels due to the mass of the driveshaft and viscosity of the coupler fluid.
On a side note, my SHO came with 255/45R19 tires (on 19x8.5 wheels) and I was able to install 275/45R19s last year without any issues. Those tires were beasts. Superb lateral grip, awesome ride quality, and they were so wide that most of the small potholes didn't even register. The Fusion Sport has 235/40R19 tires that pop in the slightest bump, and there's not enough room to go with a thicker tire due to the spring perch clearance on the strut. I lost 2 tires already this season! I see that they have an Edge ST coming out that will have the same problem wit ultra thin tires. The 2020 Explorer will have a ST trim as well, so I will definitely not get that. The problem is that they load the Sport/ST trims with the best tires for the Autobahn or Nurburgring. When I complained to Ford, they said they designed cars for all kinds of roads and not just Southeast Michigan. Uh, what? We have some of the worst roads here especially this winter, with potholes that are waist-deep (literally, not making this up) or 3 feet wide on the freeway. Several roads had a line of 15+ cars all with busted wheels/tires lined up on the shoulder. I'll gladly sacrifice a few G's of lateral grip for better durability on rough roads.