Got a set of new in box Eibach springs for my 2011 SCO Flex and plan on replacing struts and shocks at same time, almost got 100k on the clock.
I searched around here and KYBs were not very well received for SHO owners. Read a few horror stories on Monroe, at least from RA. Have not seen much reviews for Flex, but I know they are close to same as SHO and MKT.
Should I just stick with Motorcraft?
Three words. Fo Mo Co.
Quote from: SHOdded on August 04, 2017, 04:38:58 PM
Three words. Fo Mo Co.
Thanks... After reading more that's the way I'm leaning.
Would you say the same for strut mounts and sway end links? Or Moog OK?
Stick with Motorcraft, unless you are in a bind and need a cheaper fix for a couple of years. Then MOOG is fine.
Did my struts and shocks a few months back. Considered the KYB's, but ended up going Motorcraft at the recommendation of the fine people here. Original Motorcrafts got me to about 130k miles, so they must be pretty good quality. Do the strut mounts too while you're in there.
Oh and you're going to really enjoy this install. Let me know if you need any help with anything. Real PITA to do.
Quote from: pmezo33 on August 04, 2017, 08:51:27 PM
Did my struts and shocks a few months back. Considered the KYB's, but ended up going Motorcraft at the recommendation of the fine people here. Original Motorcrafts got me to about 130k miles, so they must be pretty good quality. Do the strut mounts too while you're in there.
Oh and you're going to really enjoy this install. Let me know if you need any help with anything. Real PITA to do.
Been reading a lot about it, not sure i want to tackle the front, might find a shop to do them. Thought was to get new struts and mounts and assemble the springs as a unit myself and take them in for install. Not sure yet.
Quote from: firewater88 on August 04, 2017, 09:56:11 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on August 04, 2017, 08:51:27 PM
Did my struts and shocks a few months back. Considered the KYB's, but ended up going Motorcraft at the recommendation of the fine people here. Original Motorcrafts got me to about 130k miles, so they must be pretty good quality. Do the strut mounts too while you're in there.
Oh and you're going to really enjoy this install. Let me know if you need any help with anything. Real PITA to do.
Been reading a lot about it, not sure i want to tackle the front, might find a shop to do them. Thought was to get new struts and mounts and assemble the springs as a unit myself and take them in for install. Not sure yet.
You'll need a tool like this to push the axle through the hub.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-master-hub-puller-kit-648608/9150001-P?searchTerm=9150016+OR+9150017+OR+9150001+OR+9150011+OR+9150015+OR+9150008+OR+9150006+OR+9150043&showTitle=no
And you'll need a tool to compress the strut springs. I used the advanced auto set. The rest can be done with hand tools. It definitely helps having a good impact wrench.
You want me to run you through the steps? I can probably do it based on memory. I did it on my 2010 MKS, but i'm sure it's pretty much the same thing for your car.
Here's a PDF from my chilton manual for the struts. I did it a little different from their step by step, but it's a good guide. One step they don't mention is the removal of the lower control arm. I had to completely remove it for clearance. There was no other way to get the strut out of the steering knuckle. Removing the entire steering knuckle and then removing the strut is the easiest way to tackle this.
Quote from: pmezo33 on August 04, 2017, 10:26:25 PM
Quote from: firewater88 on August 04, 2017, 09:56:11 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on August 04, 2017, 08:51:27 PM
Did my struts and shocks a few months back. Considered the KYB's, but ended up going Motorcraft at the recommendation of the fine people here. Original Motorcrafts got me to about 130k miles, so they must be pretty good quality. Do the strut mounts too while you're in there.
Oh and you're going to really enjoy this install. Let me know if you need any help with anything. Real PITA to do.
Been reading a lot about it, not sure i want to tackle the front, might find a shop to do them. Thought was to get new struts and mounts and assemble the springs as a unit myself and take them in for install. Not sure yet.
You'll need a tool like this to push the axle through the hub.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-master-hub-puller-kit-648608/9150001-P?searchTerm=9150016+OR+9150017+OR+9150001+OR+9150011+OR+9150015+OR+9150008+OR+9150006+OR+9150043&showTitle=no
And you'll need a tool to compress the strut springs. I used the advanced auto set. The rest can be done with hand tools. It definitely helps having a good impact wrench.
You want me to run you through the steps? I can probably do it based on memory. I did it on my 2010 MKS, but i'm sure it's pretty much the same thing for your car.
If you don't mind trying to recall the steps, that would be great. Reading some how to's, but not sure I've seen a full step by step.
Then I'd know if I really want to tackle it or not...
Thanks in advance
I edited the post to add a few details and added the chilton step by step if you missed that.
Hmmm, I'm gonna have to mull this one over... Might be beyond my capabilities... Unless I find a good friend that can help and be paid in beer...
Quote from: firewater88 on August 04, 2017, 10:55:06 PM
Hmmm, I'm gonna have to mull this one over... Might be beyond my capabilities... Unless I find a good friend that can help and be paid in beer...
I'm not sure how mechanically inclined you are, but it's really not that hard. It's a lot harder than a normal strut job should be, but that's only because of Ford and their terrible design that they fixed with the 13+ models. I can walk you through anything if you have any questions along the way.
A good impact to speed up the process, some long handle wrenches to remove the lower ball joint nut, some swivel head sockets, a torque wrench, some other basic tools, and you should be good outside of the tools you have to rent.
I'd like to think I'm mechanically inclined, but never done this job before. Done shocks and such on trucks, but that's pretty straight forward. Did the big brake upgrade on the Flex solo and that went fine, just never done this kind of work before. I might ask my mustang buddy if he has done it and have him help.
Got most of the tools in my garage, decent impact and good wrench & socket sizes, 2 tourqe wrench's and such. No crows foot wrench's though.
Thanks for all the help...
You should be fine then. If you can do those installs, you can do this.
And you'll definitely need a long handle wrench for that ball joint nut. It gets torqued down to 150 foot pounds from the factory, so you'll need that leverage. It might be rusted on there pretty good if it's never been removed before, so hit it with some PB blaster too. There isn't enough clearance from the steering knuckle to get a socket on it, so you have to use a long wrench or a crows foot. I forget exactly what size you'll need. I think it's about a 21 or 22 mm. I can double check that for you if you want.
Stick with the MC which are proudly made in USA :usa: and your car will thank you later considering you just had a new long-block installed correct!!. Z
(http://i.imgur.com/CoID53Nh.jpg)
Quote from: ZSHO on August 05, 2017, 08:22:36 AM
Stick with the MC which are proudly made in USA :usa: and your car will thank you later especially since you have a new long-block put in correct!!. Z
(http://i.imgur.com/CoID53Nh.jpg)
Right! New long block = keeping Flex for many, many more miles!
Thanks