Hey guys as thread title states, hop in the car to leave work and this dash light appears. Pull out my code reader out and nothing. Pop the hood and check dipstick and I'm at the bottom of the mark so I add 1 quart fire up the car and then check again. Dipstick right bear the top of the full mark. I also checked under the car no leaks. The dash light however persists. It's running normally minus the dash light. 2013 taurus SHO. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
-Shaun
Check the CAC (intercooler) with the same oil dip stick through the TB side!
It could be a faulty PCV -Oil Sep and check the Rear valve cover for leaks.
How many miles! Motorcraft oil filter! Z
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3056.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3056.0.html)
106k on the car going to check out the valve cover, always motorcraft oil filter and since I've owned the car(55k) amsoil
No oil on the rear valve cover either...
How many miles on this oil change? There is a TSB (?) out on valve covers/pcv valves causing oil consumption and blue smoke. Does this sound feasible in your case? If so, you are due for an updated valve cover/PCV valve & separator.
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.msg79067.html#msg79067 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.msg79067.html#msg79067)
Interesting that the light persists even after topping off the oil. I don't think that was the issue to begin with, because we have had cases where the oil went as low as 2-3 quarts before the light came on (!), yes, really! So it could be a bad oil pressure switch (possibly leaking from there as well), or a glitch in the instrument cluster needing an updated calibration. That we would need to look through available TSBs for 2013+
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.0.html)
Just under 2k on this oil change. I haven't changed the pcv valve yet. I haven't noticed any blue smoke but I usually run 6 quarts of oil and usually end up with 5.5ish with 5k oil change intervals.
Can I drive with a bad oil pressure switch? This couldn't really happen at a worse time as far as getting into the dealer to have them look at it.
How many miles driven since adding the exra quart of oil! The light might go away after a certain amount of mileage! Dunno!
If you have time you can try to remove the Oil Sep to check if
FULL as pictured below. If Full try to suck it out with a simple turkey baster for the time being especially if original...
I would also check the air intake Hoses for oil.
I would check the oil level on a daily basis or until sorted out and
proceed with caution is advised IMHO. Z
(https://i.imgur.com/Zc6WfeCh.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/BzyDfowh.jpg)
So you were down a quart in 2K when the normal is 1/2 a quart in 5K. Definitely cause for concern. Yes you can drive with a bad EOP switch, but like Z said, monitor daily. And check the valve/separator. The intercooler to see if there is buildup. And of course turbo hoses for pooling oil.
What is the production date on the oil bottles used for the current fill vs the last fill? Any idea? I believe Amsoil reformulated around November 2017.
So went looked at my ams bottles and apparently I only bought 5 :/ so that would explain the oil level. Still haven't found any leaks of any kind. Decided to take it in as it's my dd and I don't have a backup ride. I will post some updates when I get some info. Thanks Z, SHOdded for the help much appreciated.
Whoo thats a relief, I tell ya! Good luck, I hope they get your SHO fixed quick!
It's sometimes better to be on the safe side especially it being your DD. Z
Well good news, it was the oil pressure switch. Still got some maintenance items to take care of ie the pcv update, but glad it wasn't something more serious.
Yeah these EOPs are notorious for failures. Am seeing a lot of failures especially on 2011+ Edges, 2011 was a redesign year. 2007-10 have hardly ever had issues with this switch even with 300+K mile vehicles. Something changed, and not for the better LOL.
Enjoy, be worry free :)
My '13 non-PP is doing same thing. Started getting light at <800 RPM now up to 1200 RPM to make go out. Most likely problem is related to TWO dead turbos, now puking oil but COULD be the switch. But I've also noted that I get no heat at idle, but it will warm up just fine if I rev just a bit (> 1000 RPM). My mech says the idle is all catty-wampus, again most likely due to P0299 code due to 2 dead turbines; but that doesn't explain the no heat issue. I suspect it's the water pump impeller corroding or pump in imminent failure mode.
Soooooooooooo......My girlfriend is going into my mech on the 14th to get timing chains, water pump, oil pump, turbos, vacuum solenoid/valve, EOP switch all replaced, . I'm going with OEM turbos after an hour on the phone with Dave and Anthony over at Livernois debating pros/cons of upgraded turbos. Even Mike Bambic's upgraded CHRA's would require putting on upgraded HPFP and, and, and....So just gonna keep it stock for time being. However, I am going to splurge and install Mike's Hot Pipe upgrade (in RED powder-coat w/ RED silicon connectors)!
She's my DD and has 167K on her. I never track her, just love seeing shocked looks from Hemi and 'Vette jockey's when I leave them behind and BEATING THE SNOT out of impetuous and precocious youngsters in their obnoxious fart can equipped rice-rockets LOL!
All in all I'm gonna be into this for about $4K when all is done (labor included). I think that's worth keeping my green eyed doll on the road for a few more years!
Happy New Year all, and a special shout out to SHOdded who has been an absolute SAINT helping me sort out parts and such. He's a SUPER valuable member and I always appreciate his help and support on this and the SHO forum!
New Long block is roughly $6,500 for that rare Gem green SHO considering your current mileage. Z
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/new-gas-engines/service-engine-assy-7866413-1