Ecoboost Performance Forum

So my 2010 sho blew the engine at 150k ish. I'm driving 6 hours right now to pick up a super low mileage engine/trans/trans out of a wrecked 2014 police Taurus. So I know there's 2? Sensors to swap on the engine but is there anything else to complete the swap?

TC might not fit! Best of luck with the swap. Z

Did you check the final drive ratio, to make sure they are the same.  Think you need to change the crank and cam sensors, to the one off you original motor and maybe the flywheel too.  When you have your original driveline out, put it side by side to the one you just bought and go over both carefully to see any differences.  Good luck.

Thanks for the answers guys I ended up driving 6 hours each way to not buy it, very disappointed.

:(

So I finally got an engine from a 13/14 and it's in the car. I changed the 3 hole flywheel from the 13/14 to the 4 hole on the 10 as well as the ac compressor. What 2 sensors will I have to swap out? I'm going to work on the wiring harness tomorrow. Thanks guys

Crank sensor and COPs for sure. 

I'm going to assume the crank sensor is the on buried behind the front turbo that I love so much and no idea what the "cop" sensors are.

Quote from: Spyder3000gtvr4 on August 30, 2019, 08:11:25 AM
I'm going to assume the crank sensor is the on buried behind the front turbo that I love so much and no idea what the "cop" sensors are.

COPs to me are normally the coil on plug, I know between 2010-2012 and 2013+ are different. The 2013+ are 3 pin and earlier are 2 pin

No need to guess :)  nick graciously hosts the 2014 sho factory manual and you should pore thru it
http://www.nicksmustangranch.com/Service_Manuals/2014/2014_Taurus/Service%20Manual.htm (http://www.nicksmustangranch.com/Service_Manuals/2014/2014_Taurus/Service%20Manual.htm)

Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2019, 12:03:55 PM
No need to guess :)  nick graciously hosts the 2014 sho factory manual and you should pore thru it
http://www.nicksmustangranch.com/Service_Manuals/2014/2014_Taurus/Service%20Manual.htm (http://www.nicksmustangranch.com/Service_Manuals/2014/2014_Taurus/Service%20Manual.htm)

Not bad indeed! But have the dealer version at my disposal. Lol. Z  :P

Uhg made a nice whole long post and tried posting with pictures but no luck. Basically swapped the 2 sensors on the heads drivers side. Also changed the fpr since the fuel line elbow is bent 90* between the 2 engines so for peace of mind didn’t want to bend the fuel line. But came across 2 problems.
I have 2 wires that the labels fell off of and my pictures don’t show. Pretty sure smaller wire goes to starter as it reaches nicely and thicker wire is an engine ground.
Second problem is newer engine has what looks like an antifreeze tube that my older engine doesn’t have. I’ve tried numerous times to post a picture but it won’t post. The tube is on the passenger side of the engine under the bigger antifreeze tube

Quote from: Spyder3000gtvr4 on September 06, 2019, 02:04:21 PM
Uhg made a nice whole long post and tried posting with pictures but no luck. Basically swapped the 2 sensors on the heads drivers side. Also changed the fpr since the fuel line elbow is bent 90* between the 2 engines so for peace of mind didn't want to bend the fuel line. But came across 2 problems.
I have 2 wires that the labels fell off of and my pictures don't show. Pretty sure smaller wire goes to starter as it reaches nicely and thicker wire is an engine ground.
Second problem is newer engine has what looks like an antifreeze tube that my older engine doesn't have. I've tried numerous times to post a picture but it won't post. The tube is on the passenger side of the engine under the bigger antifreeze tube

Send me a link of the Pics via Pm and will upload them for ya shortly! Z 

The cooler tube difference is due to it being from an Interceptor.  There was a thread on the shoforum regarding that discovery during a swap.

I think it was Scott Milligan who posted about it.  And left that tube capped?  I don't recall exactly.

Engine ground and starter cable! Z

yup, exactly as on shoforum
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/what-is-this.138520/

Ok will look up what the best option is with the secondary cooler line. As far as the wiring the smaller one seems to want to go to the starter clips in nice and easily has a clip that's snug. The  thicker one with two wires on it can make it to the starter but I'd have to pull on the wires a bit so thinking it's the smaller one.

Sorry cant help with that one :( 

So i just left the local ford dealership, Was trying to look into the parts for the second antifreeze line and the gentleman couldn't find them. So tried for about half an hour. So going to have to see if I can find the parts needed to see if it's worth adding the parts or just capping it. Not really in the mood to take off the intake to see what's involved in swapping out the 2010 single line
Time involved researching/working on car: well over 100hours
Time driving the car: lol less then 10hours!

Just cap it!  Do go thru the shoforum thread.

I wholeheartedly agree with Manu and simply put a cap on it and be done with it. Z  :)

Got the car all together. Put the key in glove box cranked nothing. Cracked second time it sputtered now all it's doing is cranking. I don't think the fuel pump is on and the security light is flashing. Any advise... remote is dead only works in glove box. Tried locking the car putting code in the door so don't know if it's a security issue or if the fuel pump needs to be reset since the battery was out for 6 months.

If it were a loss of PATS security communication, it would not even crank, so that is not it.  Key fob battery or vehicle battery or both could be suspect.  Could be low or bad fuel from sitting.  Recheck and firmly seat all fuses and relays in the underhood fusebox.  Make sure the connectors at the PCM and whatever else you disconnected are good.  Can you get codes from the PCM?  I would think if it cranks, it can set codes.

Battery is a ur old and was on the trickle charger during the engine transplant, key fob is dead but battery is a yr old and only wants to crank when it's in the key holder. Gas is 93 6 months old topped it off 10 miles prior to engine going. I'll have to get a code reader to see if I can get anything. From what I recall if the hoods open and you're standing at the engine bay I thought I'd hear the hissing from the fuel system. I don't hear anything at all now and even after trying to crank the engine 6-7 times no smell at all even at the exhaust tip. I feel like the fuel pump isn't going. That's why I thought it had to do with the security since the red light was blinking in the car

According to this, one of the antennas might have failed, requiring the fob insertion into the center console slot.  Assuming the key fob battery is new.  As to why it cranks but not starts, let's see about the codes.

QuoteNormal Operation
During each vehicle start sequence, when the start/stop switch is pressed, the Remote Function Actuator (RFA) activates all 3 passive start antennas, which send out a low frequency signal. If an Intelligent Access (IA) key is within range of an passive start antenna, the low frequency signal activates the IA key. When the IA key is activated it sends a high frequency signal to the Remote Functions Receiver (RFR) module. The RFR module communicates with the RFA module. If the RFA module determines that a programmed IA key is in the vehicle, it interacts with the PCM to start the vehicle.

If the vehicle has a failure of any passive start antenna, the battery in the IA key, or the RFR module, the vehicle can experience a Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) no-start. However, in the event of one of these failures, the IA key can be placed in the backup slot (located in the center console) to allow the vehicle to start. The backup transceiver is located next to the backup slot and activates an IA key if it is placed in the slot. The backup transceiver is hardwired to the RFA module and when it is activated, sends out a low frequency signal. If a programmed IA key is in the backup slot when the backup transceiver is activated, it activates the IA key and the identification code is sent back to the RFA module through the backup transceiver.

Once the RFA module determines that a programmed IA key is inside the vehicle and receives a request to start the engine, it turns the ignition ON and communicates with the PCM over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN). Once the ignition mode is turned ON, both the RFA module and PCM check the parameters against what has been programmed into them. If there is a programmed IA key inside the vehicle and the parameters are correct, then the RFA module and PCM enable the starter relay and fuel injectors.

QuotePATS disables the vehicle from starting if there is:

• a damaged IA key.
• a damaged IA passive start antenna (of the 3 used for starting the vehicle).
• an unprogrammed IA key.
• a non-encoded (non- IA ) key (a conventional PATS key or one that does not have any electronics).

damaged wiring. [/li]
[li]a damaged backup transceiver (only if the IA key is in the backup transceiver slot). [/li]
[li]a dead battery in the IA key (backup transceiver slot may be used to start the vehicle in this case). [/li]
[li]a damaged RFR module. [/li]
[li]a damaged RFA module. [/li]
[li]a damaged PCM.[/li]
[/list]

Any chance the fuel pump safety switch has been tripped?

Do you hear a (click sound) coming from the engine bay after having it in accessory mode then ignition OFF ? Z

That's what I'm trying to figure out. I looked in the manual it's very vague on how to reset it. Googled it... nothing. Tried the search on here but didn't seem to find it (probably using the search wrong)
The only other thing I could possibly think of is that I put the flywheel in the wrong spot which I highly doubt but even if I did I'd still smell gas which I am not. Not hearing the hissing for it to prime.

As far as a clicking I'll go check but I don't recall. A buzzing sound near the trans and the fpr is making a very faith buzzing

Haven't had time to look at the car again will try this weekend. Will listen for clicking sound as mentioned. I saw the article about the recall for the fuel pump module not sure it that applies to my car. Was thinking of trying starter fluid to see if it's the fuel pump any suggestions on testing the pump?