Ever Contemplated Tinting The Lights on Your SHO but weren't sure what the color would look like, or what the percent light transmission really meant in terms of visibility...or maybe you were thinking of replacing the incandescent bulbs on your ride with LEDs and just weren't sure. Well here are some pics of my tuxedo black 2013 SHO during and after the job to give you a better idea. This is not a "how-to" since this has already been covered. Allow plenty of time on a warm day if decide to tint as it gets tricky and Lamin-X recommends 24 hours to cure before "exposing to the elements". I'll update this until it's all done.Here we go............
Below are before and after pics of the interior stock first, then with all bulbs replaced with 6K LEDs so it would match the light blue ambient lighting. It is MUCH brighter also. First one is before:
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/BiGMaCsSHOInteriorResized_zpsc5341a8e.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/BiGMaCsSHOInteriorResized_zpsc5341a8e.jpg.html)
and below is after:
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/0-InteriorLEDsDone_zps2b3f310f.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/0-InteriorLEDsDone_zps2b3f310f.jpg.html)
More on the lighting during tint pics and after custom LEDs arrive.
Next are pics of the tinting of the rear lights with comparison to stock using Lamin-X in charcoal (the darkest of five shades, 70% light transmission). Pardon the dirty car. Labels and info are above each pic....
1. This is the stock appearance... duh!
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/1-NoTint_zpsdfd6b2d1.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/1-NoTint_zpsdfd6b2d1.jpg.html)
2. Below are two pics. I started with the right reflector because it had no compound curves.... OJT! The lower pic shows sunlight reflecting through the film... so even with the dramatic color change they still work.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/2-LeftReflectorDone_zpsc3c4e25a.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/2-LeftReflectorDone_zpsc3c4e25a.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/3-LeftReflectorStillWorks_zpsf06041a3.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/3-LeftReflectorStillWorks_zpsf06041a3.jpg.html)
3. I stayed on the right side and started the tail light. The first pic lets you contrast the color change between the outer part and inner part. I finished the right tail and did the left reflector. This gives you a side to side comparison.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/4-LeftTailBefore_zps60855ea7.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/4-LeftTailBefore_zps60855ea7.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/5-LeftTailDone_zpsaad59382.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/5-LeftTailDone_zpsaad59382.jpg.html)
4. These daylight shots show the lights, flashers, and BU lights on with only the right side filmed.. remember this film blocks 30% of light. Thanks to mj who gave me a deal on the ultra bright LED BU lights.
...lights and flashers on...
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/6-LeftTailDoneFlasherComparisonDaylight_zpsc1164e41.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/6-LeftTailDoneFlasherComparisonDaylight_zpsc1164e41.jpg.html)
.....Now lights, flashers, and BU lights on... still only the right side done....
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/7-LeftTailDoneComparisonBUsDaylight_zps95a3d96b.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/7-LeftTailDoneComparisonBUsDaylight_zps95a3d96b.jpg.html)
5. Here's the rear exterior lighting completed... yea, it got dark while I was wetting, heat gunning, using the squeegee... then peeling it off to get it better again and again.... a little tedious and best done without distraction.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/8-TintCompleteNoLights_zpsf7314346.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/8-TintCompleteNoLights_zpsf7314346.jpg.html)
6. Here's a few nighttime shots of the completed job on the rear of the car with lighting
......tailights at night on the driveway......
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/11-TailsatnightDriveway_zps73e0c593.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/11-TailsatnightDriveway_zps73e0c593.jpg.html)
.......Brake lights with headlights on in the dark garage....
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/10-BrakesDarkGarage_zps5c614404.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/10-BrakesDarkGarage_zps5c614404.jpg.html)
.... This is not a good pic, BUT it allows you to compare the third brakelight with the tails I just filmed. All the lighting in back is LED. I think plenty of light for safe visibility is there.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/105BrakesasbrightasThirdlite_zpsdfcb5c9e.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/105BrakesasbrightasThirdlite_zpsdfcb5c9e.jpg.html)
Tomorrow I'm putting Gunsmoke tint on the headlights (1 shade lighter than the tails and transmits 85% of light).
As soon as they get here, Monday i'm promised, I'll be adding hi-power LED amber front side-markers (300 lumen) and V3 Triton 5K LED switchbacks for the front turn signal (600 lumens... with user configurable option to dim the white part of the switchback by 50%... we'll see if I get flashed.
800 lumen LED puddle lights are on the way too. So there'll be new pics from time to time that let you compare stock with LED and tint on the front.
Finally I've ordered a custom LED projector for under the hood lighting.,.. A big White 40" circle with SHO in black projected on the hood blanket should provide enough light.
Hope this was of some use to everyone who actually got this far... LOL
Off the edge of the cliff to the darkside! Would like to see 360 pics taken in the same sitting for best comparison, but the project is coming along VERY well.
You're right! I forgot. :homer:
The appearance from the side also changed a lot... for the better I think... but the rear side-markers also get dimmed...
Nicely done! :ok:
Bravo! :clap2:
Looking good! I'm curious to what your opinion will be with the headlights. I flat out LOVE the look during the day, but less than thrilled at night. If you live in a fairly lit area I think they are fine. I find myself driving around in dark areas with my brights on. They will cut down the light because I've yet to be flashed driving with the brights on. My windshield is also tinted so that isn't helping me any either.
Great work Tom! Those LED tails shine right through the tint when they are on. It was nice to see how the rear reflectors came out too. I'll be doing mine in smoked. A little lighter. Good luck on the headlights today!
Quote from: Darkside on December 27, 2013, 10:23:32 AM
Looking good! I'm curious to what your opinion will be with the headlights. I flat out LOVE the look during the day, but less than thrilled at night. If you live in a fairly lit area I think they are fine. I find myself driving around in dark areas with my brights on. They will cut down the light because I've yet to be flashed driving with the brights on. My windshield is also tinted so that isn't helping me any either.
Darkside..... Thanks. I'll get some pics, likely this PM after it warms up to about 70
o and I can apply the film... It will also be interesting to see how they look with a 600 lumen 5K LED switchback
Do you notice much color change from the 5K white on your HID heads.... or just dimming?
Quote from: DJE624 on December 27, 2013, 10:30:45 AM
Great work Tom! Those LED tails shine right through the tint when they are on. It was nice to see how the rear reflectors came out too. I'll be doing mine in smoked. A little lighter. Good luck on the headlights today!
Thanks Dave...
Smoked will go great with your platinum white! :thumb: Charcoal would be too dark I think. :naughty: Plus with 85-88% more transmission your lights will be about 25% brighter and the same tint front and rear.
Lost the damn squeegee... I can lose anything and without moving! :smiley5: I'll be using your tips like did for the left tail.....
You need one of these, BiGMaC!
(https://griotsgarage.scene7.com/is/image/GriotsGarage/38950?$detail$)
I DO!!! does it have a training wheels option for nerds like me :boom:
I am sure that could be arranged ;)
Those seats are great...I have a bench one with wheels from Adam's Polishes...but it doesn't come with the "Oh my God, you're fat" weight capacity rating....
Quote from: BiGMaC on December 27, 2013, 10:46:49 AM
Quote from: DJE624 on December 27, 2013, 10:30:45 AM
Great work Tom! Those LED tails shine right through the tint when they are on. It was nice to see how the rear reflectors came out too. I'll be doing mine in smoked. A little lighter. Good luck on the headlights today!
Thanks Dave...
Smoked will go great with your platinum white! :thumb: Charcoal would be too dark I think. :naughty: Plus with 85-88% more transmission your lights will be about 25% brighter and the same tint front and rear.
Lost the damn squeegee... I can lose anything and without moving! :smiley5: I'll be using your tips like did for the left tail.....
Just doing the rear reflectors in smoke to have a cleaner white/black line in the back. The headlights will be the light tint to go with the 50% windows. Just to take the edge off of all the clear stuff.
Looks great. I didn't do the reflectors and don't think I will, the red looks OK with the red car, but after seeing how great they came out, it makes me want to get started on working with the extra set of tails I got from DJE624...I've been stalling on getting started on them, but now I have got to get moving.
I hope your v3 tritons work. I had both revision 1 and 2 and neither worked on my car. I actually killed my bcm with the second revision. Parking lights worked fine. When activating the turn signal I would get 1 amber flash then the output to the socket was disabled by the bcm for over current, and the rears would hyper flash. My mistake was hitting the turn signal consecutively really fast which somehow got around the over current protection.
Even without the load resistor the bcm still disabled the output. It made no sense because the bulb pulls way more current then the led did. I got a new wiring harness adapter and socket and am going to try using my own ground and fuses just big enough to power the led's to try again, I just haven't felt like messing with it in the cold.
Quote from: dalum on December 27, 2013, 06:21:37 PM
I hope your v3 tritons work. I had both revision 1 and 2 and neither worked on my car. I actually killed my bcm with the second revision. Parking lights worked fine. When activating the turn signal I would get 1 amber flash then the output to the socket was disabled by the bcm for over current, and the rears would hyper flash. My mistake was hitting the turn signal consecutively really fast which somehow got around the over current protection.
Even without the load resistor the bcm still disabled the output. It made no sense because the bulb pulls way more current then the led did. I got a new wiring harness adapter and socket and am going to try using my own ground and fuses just big enough to power the led's to try again, I just haven't felt like messing with it in the cold.
Bad experience... good info, thanks. We'll see if the new generation Ford adapter solves the issue. Wish ford would just put LEDs everywhere from the factory.
Quote from: BiGMaC on December 27, 2013, 07:13:20 PM
Bad experience... good info, thanks. We'll see if the new generation Ford adapter solves the issue. Wish ford would just put LEDs everywhere from the factory.
What new generation Ford adapter
The one they sold me yesterday... talked with them to purchase... We'll see if it works, but the reptold me they were in a new fabrication run and they wouldn't be able ship Till Monday.
OOOOOO Defiantly let me know! Send me a pm please I don't want to miss the news.
Quote from: dalum on December 28, 2013, 12:48:42 AM
OOOOOO Defiantly let me know! Send me a pm please I don't want to miss the news.
K, Will do. Happy to oblige
let me know and or post problems or issues with the v3 tritons and the harness adapter that you are getting through Ford ... I have the tritons at home .... just have not had time to install.... thanks .... Kevin
please post the Ford part number as well ...
Mac, I went from having above factory lights to shitty ones. Luckily I drive most of the time during daylight. If it didn't look so good I would tear them off.
Quote from: Darkside on December 27, 2013, 10:23:32 AM
Looking good! I'm curious to what your opinion will be with the headlights. I flat out LOVE the look during the day, but less than thrilled at night. If you live in a fairly lit area I think they are fine. I find myself driving around in dark areas with my brights on. They will cut down the light because I've yet to be flashed driving with the brights on. My windshield is also tinted so that isn't helping me any either.
Quote from: Darkside on December 28, 2013, 11:04:38 AM
Mac, I went from having above factory lights to shitty ones. Luckily I drive most of the time during daylight. If it didn't look so good I would tear them off.
You know, as I studied the car and pondered your experience, I noticed that most of the appearance inside the headlight cowl is black anyway....... so last night I decided to hold off on tinting the heads, at least until I've got the LEDs finished. No problems with the tails driving last night, but i don't want to be blind at night. May buy a couple of sheets of the gunsmoke and just tape them in place (adhesive side out) to see about light transmission. Thanks for the input!
I will be working on a few small bubbles in the Lamin-X tails today. It is also worth noting that the injection nipples and DOT cert numbers are on the inside of the headlights cowls... BUT are on the
outside of tail light lenses. This causes some surface irregularity where the film cannot completely adhere.
Currently I love the look... drove to the dealer to get the wife's truck last night and several salesman were admiring them and very complimentary on the look. ( also showed it to a couple of BIMI 5s at stop lights going home... LOL) If I decide to stay with these I'll remove the ones I have now, sand off the nipples, polish the lenses again, and reapply the film to a completely smooth surface. I should have know and done it first anyway.
Pics below taken 36 hours after application of the Lamin-X Front headlight is mostly black.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo6_zpsf58415b1.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo6_zpsf58415b1.jpg.html)
Here's an injection nipple and lifted film due to it.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo3Annotated_zps09a6b350.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo3Annotated_zps09a6b350.jpg.html)
Overall the job still Looks acceptable,,at least for a trial (The wife's truck in the background... Christmas decoration! Yea, we like black cars, LOL)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo12_zps2c76025f.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo12_zps2c76025f.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo11_zps42eb2571.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo11_zps42eb2571.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo10_zpsbdcba59a.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/Day2photo10_zpsbdcba59a.jpg.html)
More to follow after a few decisions and the last of the LEDs to the front lighting.
OK!... vLED shipped yesterday and told me Tuesday.... I paid for routine and they sent it overnite! :icon_arrow: Service! :thumb: They arrived today!... :banana: Just opened the box. Gonna be a late nite tonite! :mj_banana:
Here they are. They are huge with a large heat sink attached. So I'm better than back on schedule now.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/TritonsintheBox_zps67d4dd85.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/TritonsintheBox_zps67d4dd85.jpg.html)
Be careful with those bubbles. A lot of them take care of themselves. Ask MJH about the best way to deal with them. When I took the film off my headlights that time there was actually a water bubble a few days later. I could have sworn when I finished putting the tint on, there was not one bubble anywhere. I think the molecules might attract each other through capillary action. Maybe the same with air. Those darn bubbles seem to appear from nowhere.
ok .... what about required harness adapters from Ford to install the V3 tritons ..... I'm confused ??
Do you have them ?
Quote from: DJE624 on December 28, 2013, 08:35:30 PM
Be careful with those bubbles. A lot of them take care of themselves. Ask MJH about the best way to deal with them. When I took the film off my headlights that time there was actually a water bubble a few days later. I could have sworn when I finished putting the tint on, there was not one bubble anywhere. I think the molecules might attract each other through capillary action. Maybe the same with air. Those darn bubbles seem to appear from nowhere.
Dave... Thanks, I will... I tried the sewing needle thing... some actually drained water after 36-40 hours,, used heat gently. Not seeing any new ones ...yet...... This is like an experiment. I want it to look good, but if I decide to keep it filmed (and I am loving the appearance more and more) I will remove the tails and coat with a sheet rather than precut to get better coverage and eliminate exposed edges.
Quote from: kbeck59 on December 28, 2013, 08:37:19 PM
ok .... what about required harness adapters from Ford to install the V3 tritons ..... I'm confused ??
Do you have them ?
Kbeck.... The required ford adapter (socket for headlight cowl) is in the box (below the foam along with a fist full of wires, connectors, gaskets and seals, etc)..... I'll post more detailed photos later before I install.
Per Kbecks request... and possibly of interest to others... The pic below is the contents of the Triton V3 packaged with labels. left click to enlarge.
It appears to be plug and play. I think access to the drivers side headlight cowl will require removal of the air intake. The resistors are in the control module that have attachment holes for a screw. The 50% reduction light will dim the white part of the switchback when the headlights are on and is optional, but 600 lumen is pretty bright.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/TritonV3PackageContents_zps7feb2493.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/TritonV3PackageContents_zps7feb2493.jpg.html)
Serious looking package there. Thanks for the pics :) Do you already have HID, or do you plan to go HID? I am thinking about how much space you'd have left over in that part of the bay after these Tritons are installed.
Quote from: SHOdded on December 29, 2013, 05:24:31 AM
Serious looking package there. Thanks for the pics :) Do you already have HID, or do you plan to go HID? I am thinking about how much space you'd have left over in that part of the bay after these Tritons are installed.
Yes, it came OEM with HID from the Ford, and space
is a premium!... we'll see later today. The HIDs are white, not bluish, which is why I went with the 5000K color temp.... Thanks to geswek for that temp match info.
Help Please. :help2:
Well I'm still studying the 2013 SHO for access to the side-markers from inside the engine compartment... so far I can't even see them either side. I think I can feel the one on the passenger side..... they are just lateral to the HID housing. The manual is no help. Don't know WTF Ford was thinking. :hmmm:
So I'm throwing out this question: What is the best way to access the front side-marker on a 2013 SHO? :dunno:
I figure I'm gonna have to do some R&R of parts of the car, but I don't want to take the bumper off only to find that I can't get to the bulbs/back of the headlight housing.
Anyone?
I wasn't going to do a "how to" on this..... maybe I should once it's all figured out.
When I swapped my headlights, I had to take the bumper cover off. If you pull out the head light assembly you will have access to the side markers. It's a pain but not too difficult. The worst part is getting those "arrowhead" screws out where the bumper cover meets the fender. At least it's like that on a 10-12. Your results may vary.
Thanks Dave. I'm still studying it, but don't see another way now. :crybabysmiley: The bright side is that I can get to the turn signals for the switchbacks pretty easy...but the side markers, wow! Gonna read bpd's how-to on that.
What was the Ford engineer who designed this deal thinking about? $2 bulb... R&R required $200, :pat: still... Maybe I can get the dealer to do the side-markers... You know I'm lazy. :rofl:
Actually, after you pull the bumper cover off and replace it a couple times, it's not really that difficult. Just a big pain. And it does put a lot of wear and tear on the fastening system.
You can also get to them through the inner fender well. I don't know if you can just turn the wheel and remove the front few screws or if you have to take off the wheel and/or whole thing.
Have you decided where to tap for the dimmer wire yet?
Quote from: dalum on December 29, 2013, 02:38:00 PM
You can also get to them through the inner fender well. I don't know if you can just turn the wheel and remove the front few screws or if you have to take off the wheel and/or whole thing.
Have you decided where to tap for the dimmer wire yet?
Not yet... I may wire them first without and see if I get flashed ...but you're right, Thanks. I should decide and leave a tail to tap if/when I need the dimming function... Any ideas on the best place to attached the dimmer?
Going out to lift the car now and remove the lower engine shield to see if I can get access that way.. I can change the side-markers by feel if I can just get to them ...I thought the switchbacks would be the hard part... NOT!
I ordered my V3 Tritons several months ago , As stated by Dalum earlier in this thread he said he could not get either version 1 or 2 to work on his 13 SHO . Evidently this has become a known issue to VLeds since they have come out with a revised socket Adapter to solve the problem .. I guess I need to call them and have them send me the new socket adapter.... Hopefully they will provided them to me for free since mine was order prior to this being known as an issue ....
Quote from: kbeck59 on December 29, 2013, 08:23:47 PM
I ordered my V3 Tritons several months ago , As stated by Dalum earlier in this thread he said he could not get either version 1 or 2 to work on his 13 SHO . Evidently this has become a known issue to VLeds since they have come out with a revised socket Adapter to solve the problem .. I guess I need to call them and have them send me the new socket adapter.... Hopefully they will provided them to me for free since mine was order prior to this being known as an issue ....
Yea... call them! The install was plug and play.. literally! They work super! No problem except finding metal to mount the controller... other than that no directions needed. I'll post pics later after sorting. They are worth every penny. I love the way they look. I did not hook up the headlight wire for the 50% dimming on the white parking/running lites. I thought they were a little too bright, but nobody flashed me.
Do you know of a good point to access the positive headlight wire and what color it is... with the HIDs the wiring is not straight forward.
Pics later, but call vLEDs and get that adapter from my earlier pic... Again, very easy install, and work like a charm
Great to hear it Tom! Did you end up pulling the cover?
Quote from: DJE624 on December 29, 2013, 10:47:49 PM
Great to hear it Tom! Did you end up pulling the cover?
I wimped out on the side-markers... :chair: so no.... but by removing the factory CAI I had plenty of room to install the switchbacks. :bangin: They are pretty incredible at 600 lumens!... :dude: ...wondering what the 800 lumen puddle lights will be like.... and still thinking about finding the Headlight hot and reducing the running/parking (white part) to 300 lumen.
Anyway gotta feed the horses and then sort the pics of install and results.. will post later tonight.
I'll try to look through my service manual tomorrow and find the headlight wire, but it might not be untill later. I never got past the testing phase but I wasn't to concerned about finding metal to mount it to. I think it only uses the resistor while the turn signal is high so it shouldn't really get that hot. If we had high parking light as our factory drl then it would be hot as a mother all the time >:D
Quote from: BiGMaC on December 29, 2013, 10:53:05 PM
Quote from: DJE624 on December 29, 2013, 10:47:49 PM
Great to hear it Tom! Did you end up pulling the cover?
I wimped out on the side-markers... :chair:
I did my side markers and they were a pain to reach no matter what I tried...I went at them from the fender liner and could just barely reach them...and you can't tell the LED's from the regular bulbs.... so if you are going to the work of changing, the switchbacks would be the way to go.
Quote from: mjhpadi on December 27, 2013, 11:36:52 AM
Those seats are great...I have a bench one with wheels from Adam's Polishes...but it doesn't come with the "Oh my God, you're fat" weight capacity rating....
After this weekend I'm having one then!
So ... Finally here are the pics on the vLED Triton switchbacks and install. ... But first... When I got home from the horse show today (the other kind of horsepower I participate in!) ... the mailman had left my LED puddle lights. They are Daytime Brightlites, and yes I paid too much, but I had christmas gift cards and they had an 800 lumen puddle lights at a sale price!...Also, I always assume my time is part of the cost and i'd rather drive than solder. The vLED Triton switchbacks you'll see later are 600 lumen. And yes, I can be lazy at times. I won't bore you with the puddle light install... The company put up a video and it's easy. One word of caution, work gently with the plastic retainer clip or you'll break it. Instructions also come in the pack. Basically pop out and pop in, and the less force the quicker it goes... took <5 min with pics.
Here's the pics of them and the before/after pics. Labels are above each pic... all camera settings (my phone) are the same... and it doesn't do well in the dark, LOL. They are much brighter than OEm. Compare to the LED interior lights as well.
First a pic of what came in the box (also got instructions)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/Puddlesunpacked_zps1b341d00.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/Puddlesunpacked_zps1b341d00.jpg.html)
Now a pic of the stock puddle light on the right side
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/PuddlesOEM_zpsf9b6dd9e.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/PuddlesOEM_zpsf9b6dd9e.jpg.html)
Finally, the LEDs on in the left side puddle light
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/PuddlesLED_zps5c362a62.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/PuddlesLED_zps5c362a62.jpg.html)
On to the Switchbacks! (Once again, pardon the dirty car, I live on a unpaved road and haven't washed in a week.) They are vLED Triton V3's with a color temp of 5K on the white part (they offer 6K if you want the blue look). The white is 600 lumen (on a meter, not just adding the numbers for the individual chips which is an incorrect measure). The pic of what came in the package with connections labeled is posted earlier. They worked first time and the instructions are easy and intuitive, except..
I'm still hunting for the headlight + wire to try the 50% reduction option when headlights are on.... any help here would be appreciated!
The company warns about heat from the control module which is about 1/3 heat radiation fins and recommends mounting to metal... I never realized how much plastic there is in our crowded SHO engine compartments.
On the left side I removed the air intake... familiar to those with a CAI. I could see the park/run/blinker but couldn't reach it with the air intake in place... so out it came.
The air induction removed and set to the side in this pic
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/1-CAIRemoved_zpsb295cf8a.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/1-CAIRemoved_zpsb295cf8a.jpg.html)
Lean over a little and look toward the left front tire. You'll see the tan bulb socket just medial to the HID housing. BTW, all Ford lighting sockets unscrew counter clockwise (as you face it from the side you'd grab to rotate it)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/11-LocationCloserBest_zps0fe543f3.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/11-LocationCloserBest_zps0fe543f3.jpg.html)
Here are three pics.... The first one shows the Triton system assembled and plugged in to the OEM socket (which I secured and protected with electrical tape) lying on the air filter support... The next one shows where I mounted the control module on a body panel support out of site and zip tied all the wiring (the only hole i drilled)...and the third is the Triton bulb and socket in the headlight cowl OEM opening
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/20-Tritonpluggedin_zpsea925035.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/20-Tritonpluggedin_zpsea925035.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/15-Tritoncontrollermounted_zpsb295cf8a.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/15-Tritoncontrollermounted_zpsb295cf8a.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/21-TritoninSocket_zps1aebf5dd.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/21-TritoninSocket_zps1aebf5dd.jpg.html)
On the right side the window washer fluid container neck was flexible enough that I didn't have to do any R&R to install the Tritons. I cut away a 3"x4" area of a sound deadening sheet and mounted the control module on the wheel well using an OEM electrical ground screw that was there. Sorry.. no pics, couldn't get the camera to focus through the foreground things. The Below are a series of comparison pics with only the left system install. Be careful not to damage the washer fluid hose.
Below is a series of comparison pics done mostly during daylight that allow comparison of appearance/brightness/color with various functions... The white is a perfect match for the OEM HIDs and the amber is a little more yellow... but they told me it would be.. The white part is 600 lumens and the amber is 430 lumens. Labels are above the pics, and there is a video at the end also. These were all done with just the left side Triton system installed
Stock Right, Headlights off
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/40-SideViewRightnonTriton_zpsbe9365bd.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/40-SideViewRightnonTriton_zpsbe9365bd.jpg.html)
Triton Left, Headlights off
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/40-SideViewLeft_zpsea5be6bf.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/40-SideViewLeft_zpsea5be6bf.jpg.html)
Both seen with Headlights off.. OEM passenger side, Triton Driver side (The car is on ramps because a I dropped a ratchet and had to open the under engine panel.)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/30-LeftTritoONLYParkRun_zps9aad9f17.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/30-LeftTritoONLYParkRun_zps9aad9f17.jpg.html)
Headlights on (no blinkers)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/31-LeftTritoONLYHeadlightRun_zps367eefda.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/31-LeftTritoONLYHeadlightRun_zps367eefda.jpg.html)
Headlights on with flashers
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/33-HeadsandFlashersLeftTritonONLY_zps5056b195.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/33-HeadsandFlashersLeftTritonONLY_zps5056b195.jpg.html)
Left side in the dark shows a pretty good white color match with the "accessory parking lights" and HIDs at the 5K color temp
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/50-LeftTritoninDarkwithflash_zpsb9d15171.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/50-LeftTritoninDarkwithflash_zpsb9d15171.jpg.html)
Here's a video demo with all combinations of the lighting functions shown. This was done with the left side Tritons installed and the right side remaining OEM so you can compare: It shows the color match, even yellow is fine, as well as the crisp action of the LEDs and their brightness.
http://youtu.be/1zex4WRtlbE (http://youtu.be/1zex4WRtlbE)
If you've read this far, Thanks for your interest! Any comments or questions welcomed!
As you noticed if you've been following, I still need to replace the side-markers with LEDs, but you can't even see them looking under the hood...they are behind large panels. I have to believe that Ford has a way without removing the entire front clip. I loaned my jack stands, but if I haven't found the trick for access soon, I'm going to put the SHO on jacks with front wheels off and remove the wheel well liners... I took a little peek and it might work to access the side-marker bulb sockets.
And yes......... I did install both sides!!
Thanks again.... the modding continues.... spent a lot of time between classes at the horse show texting with Brandon as performance oriented mods start in Jan with a baseline stock dyno this Friday...... with more, like subs and DSP, to follow. I have a terminal case of mod bug infection!
Great job Tom! Thanks for the pics and video. That is a really cool set up. Good luck with the next project!
Looks awesome :thumb: ! Thanks for all the pics & video. BTW, I think you will be VERY happy with DTBL. Dan is a great guy, works very hard to deliver an excellent, consistent product. No worries.
Sidebar: how are you able to get these ramps to stay in place? I used to have some a long time ago, and they would slide like crazy on concrete, making the process a bit nervewracking :(
Quote from: SHOdded on December 31, 2013, 04:48:35 AM
Sidebar: how are you able to get these ramps to stay in place? I used to have some a long time ago, and they would slide like crazy on concrete, making the process a bit nervewracking :(
In the pics you notice that the ramps are in the soil, not on the driveway. They are so tall and steep that they would have crushed the lower flexible front fascia/"air dam" if I had tried to drive up on them. :nono:
Our yard is literally flood irrigated (all the property owners here are owners of the SanTan Irrigation District) so the ground slopes down from the drive to hold the 6" of water we cover the yard with every two weeks. It's how we get all the big trees to grow in the desert :yeah: ...
There's like a 12" berm with the drive on the high end. I drove the ramps about 3-4" into the ground to lower the high end... They weren't going anywhere! :icon_wink:
Ok, that makes sense!
Looks good and i really like how the tails came out with the tint film on them.
I emailed vled and they were happy to send me the new Ford socket adapters free of charge. Thanks for letting me know they were available. I haven't forgot about finding the light wire yet I just haven't had time. I'll get to it as soon as I can.
Quote from: dalum on December 31, 2013, 06:17:07 PM
I emailed vled and they were happy to send me the new Ford socket adapters free of charge. Thanks for letting me know they were available. I haven't forgot about finding the light wire yet I just haven't had time. I'll get to it as soon as I can.
Glad vLED accommodated. For the price they should!
No Problem on the + headlight wire... when you can i'd really appreciate it, thanks.
They are focusable. I'm going to play with that. I screwed them all the way back (widest light spread) to reduce the amount of light hitting the reflectors in the headlight cowl since it retracts the lens system. I can see a lot better to the side and on the road surface with this and I haven't been flashed yet or lit up high on the back of a car.. but they are pretty bright still and I don't know how they'll be in fog... WAY over stock, about 6-8x
There is only one wire (each) that switches and its from the BCM under the steering column to the left HID box then over to the right HID box.
left side - BN-BU wire BCM c2280e pin 2 to headlamp assembly left c1021a pin 1.
right side - BU-GN wire BCM c2280e pin1 to headlamp assembly right c1041a pin 1.
c1021a and c1041a look to be directly behind the side marker lamp so taking the front bumper off and removing the light seems to be the best access to it. The passanger one is inside a bundle crossing the front of the car but I doubt that it's any easier to get to.
I'm pretty sure its +12 control when light is on but slight chance ground when light is on. There is a Red wire on pin2 that is Hot at all times that applies the high current to the ballast. The headlamp assembly is shown to be its own component and isn't clear whats going on inside.
Manual states "When the BCM receives a message requesting the headlamps on, it supplies voltage to the headlamp bulbs (halogen headlamps) or the ballasts ( HID headlamps) within each headlamp assembly."
Our "highbeam" wire just moves the actuator so the previously mentioned wire should be +12 the entire time headlamps are on. It would be neat to use the high beam control wire with a relay to break the white wire going to the leds so when highs were on leds would go high too.
Thanks dalum.... :beer2: so far so good, but i'll take a look at the car with your diagrams.
Seems I should be able to wire both to a single headlight wire since it's just a relay in the control module.
Doing the high/low thing might be possible using the shutter wires... I'll have to think about it and get my tester out.
After a week with the vLED running light undimmed no one has flashed me... including 1 Gilbert PD, 2 AZ DPS, ans 1 Maricopa Co. SO........ For now I'l stay with what i've got there. I did order a 32" x 24" sheet of the Lamin-x Charcoal film. My neighbors business is wrapping cars.... when my lamin-X starts turning loose, or in the warmer months.... I spoke with him and he's gonna do a professional job after I smooth all the DOT lettering off. He promises NO bubbles. I'm a DA... should have had him do it to start!
It will look a lot better without the lettering on there. I had some on my reflectors but it was up in the corner and they are recessed so you can't even see them unless you bend down and look really close.
Have considered having the tails painted..... but I need to speak to 4DR's paint and body guy to see if the tuxedo black will work.
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 06, 2014, 04:58:28 PM
Have considered having the tails painted..... but I need to speak to 4DR's paint and body guy to see if the tuxedo black will work.
I always used a 4/1 mixture, 4 coats clear to one coat base black.
Quote from: Darkside on January 06, 2014, 07:28:28 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 06, 2014, 04:58:28 PM
Have considered having the tails painted..... but I need to speak to 4DR's paint and body guy to see if the tuxedo black will work.
I always used a 4/1 mixture, 4 coats clear to one coat base black.
Sounds right. But the tux black is 2 stage before clear... and what I'd like is some of the metalflake in it without having too many shadows with the tails on... ideas?
I just got my triton's but didn't know anything about a special ford connector or whatever. mine is a 2013 Taurus, do I need this connector from VLEDs?
Quote from: abnjeffy on January 27, 2014, 06:24:57 AM
I just got my triton's but didn't know anything about a special ford connector or whatever. mine is a 2013 Taurus, do I need this connector from VLEDs?
Yea, The pic below shows what you need with labels. In the upper left are the adapters which you need. Kbeck and dalum had the same issue, but just called the vLED company and they sent them the adapters... They go between the control module and the socket on the factory wiring... They plug in where the parking/turn signal bulb is plugged in and the entire rest of the Triton system plugs into the factory harness through the adapter. Be sure to secure it with electrical tape after you plug it all in.
BTW, I just screwed the Triton bulbs all the way in (they are focusable) and didn't use the 50% reduction wires... love it, brightest that way, simplest install, and no problems with police or other cars flashing me ever... your choice.
SEE BELOW, Left click the images to enlarge:
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/TritonV3PackageContents_zps7feb2493.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/SHOmTint%20Dec%202013/TritonV3PackageContents_zps7feb2493.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/20-Tritonpluggedinlabelled_zps052db281.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/LED%20Conversion%202013%20Taurus%20SHO/20-Tritonpluggedinlabelled_zps052db281.jpg.html)
Hope this helps
I recommend using rubber electrical tape (stretchable) available at Lowes or Home Depot to tape up the adapter that plugs into the OEM bulb socket . This stuff will NOT let any water in . I use it on all electrical wiring , car or home .
Something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-1-in-x-10-ft-2228-Rubber-Mastic-Electrical-Tape-50727-BA-5/202195402 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-1-in-x-10-ft-2228-Rubber-Mastic-Electrical-Tape-50727-BA-5/202195402)
What SHOdded and kbeck said... for sure! I did.
answer to abnjeffy is here: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1730.msg25906#msg25906 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1730.msg25906#msg25906)
I guess I should have given a link to what I use. ......
at Lowes ... much cheaper , price varies by state
$2.48 in OK 3M brand http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__?zipCode=74145&masthead=true&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__%3FproductId%3D3129711%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26pl%3D1%26currentURL%3D%253FNs%253Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26facetInfo%3D&catalogId=10051&catalogId=10051&productId=3129711&pl=1&findStoreErrorURL=StoreLocatorDisplayView&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4047ff47ff%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404a974a97%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404d2f4d2f%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404fc74fc7%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40525f525f%5D¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&Ntt=&URL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&langId=-1&langId=-1&mastheadURL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&storeId=10151 (http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__?zipCode=74145&masthead=true&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__%3FproductId%3D3129711%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26pl%3D1%26currentURL%3D%253FNs%253Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26facetInfo%3D&catalogId=10051&catalogId=10051&productId=3129711&pl=1&findStoreErrorURL=StoreLocatorDisplayView&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4047ff47ff%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404a974a97%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404d2f4d2f%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404fc74fc7%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40525f525f%5D¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&Ntt=&URL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&langId=-1&langId=-1&mastheadURL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&storeId=10151)
Thanks, Kevin! Definitely cheaper option. Lowe's (http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_0_ (http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_0_))! Fuller info at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-4-in-x-22-ft-Temflex-Splicing-Tape-2155/202195401. (http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-4-in-x-22-ft-Temflex-Splicing-Tape-2155/202195401.)
this thread is helping a lot. I just contacted VLEDs about the special connector, we will see what they say when they reply.
Just so I am clear, this is all just plug and play right? I am not splicing anything on my car no?
Quote from: abnjeffy on January 28, 2014, 06:40:43 AM
this thread is helping a lot. I just contacted VLEDs about the special connector, we will see what they say when they reply.
Just so I am clear, this is all just plug and play right? I am not splicing anything on my car no?
Yep! ...unless you want to use the "50% reduction" wire, but you won't. Just read the directions and familiarize yourself with the pieces..... then start installing afterward.
You might want to call them... I did before I bought. They are accessible and helpful....plus it may be quicker.
Your pictures helped a lot, and I'm not going to use that reduction wire. I'm just waiting on those Ford-specific adapters to arrive and they're going in. Did you ever figure out how to get to the side marker bulbs?
I was able to get my hand up there through the wheel well but I couldn't get it out. I could get my fingers on it but not enough to turn it
Quote from: abnjeffy on January 29, 2014, 10:59:03 AM
Your pictures helped a lot, and I'm not going to use that reduction wire. I'm just waiting on those Ford-specific adapters to arrive and they're going in. Did you ever figure out how to get to the side marker bulbs?
I was able to get my hand up there through the wheel well but I couldn't get it out. I could get my fingers on it but not enough to turn it
Not yet....I am going to check the wheel wells one of these days...... maybe could be done "by feel" through there with car on jacks, wheels off, and wheel well liners removed.......Took a quick peak with the wheels on, but can't be sure it gives enough access. If not the only solution is removing the bumper to do the side markers... Design Flaw!!
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 29, 2014, 11:07:56 AM
Took a quick peak with the wheels on, but can't be sure it gives enough access. If not the only solution is removing the bumper to do the side markers... Design Flaw!!
I took out the three bolts for the liners and stuck my hand up there with the wheel on. I think if you had a long pair of needle nose you could get it out, but I don't envision you being able to get it back in. The wheels and liners are not the problem, it's the other stuff in there, just too narrow to get your hand on the bulb. I guess with the wheel out you could actually see it better to get it back in
4DR said in an earlier thread on this that if you take off the wheels and wheel well covers that the marker bulbs could be changed using needle nose pliers and that it is a PITA.
Quote from: kbeck59 on January 29, 2014, 12:35:50 PM
4DR said in an earlier thread on this that if you take off the wheels and wheel well covers that the marker bulbs could be changed using needle nose pliers and that it is a PITA.
Why I left them... Got the bulbs, but gonna have to be bored to tackle it for 2 itty bitty bulbs.
Quote from: BiGMaC on December 30, 2013, 11:56:28 PM
On to the Switchbacks!
Can you remember what adapters you purchased with these? It would make sense to me that the 3157 parking/turn adapters would be necessary, just didnt see mention of it. Thanks for the awesome writeup!
http://www.vleds.com/v3-wa-5k.html (http://www.vleds.com/v3-wa-5k.html)
i think i got it. The adapters you guys are buying is the dual filament option, im guessing.
This is the one we used ...
www.vleds.com/10-up-ford-f150-edge-adapter.html (http://www.vleds.com/10-up-ford-f150-edge-adapter.html)
I recommend using rubber electrical tape (stretchable) available at Lowes or Home Depot to tape up the adapter that plugs into the OEM bulb socket . This stuff will NOT let any water in . I use it on all electrical wiring , car and home
http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__?zipCode=74145&masthead=true&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__%3FproductId%3D3129711%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26pl%3D1%26currentURL%3D%253FNs%253Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26facetInfo%3D&catalogId=10051&catalogId=10051&productId=3129711&pl=1&findStoreErrorURL=StoreLocatorDisplayView&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4047ff47ff%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404a974a97%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404d2f4d2f%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404fc74fc7%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40525f525f%5D¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&Ntt=&URL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&langId=-1&langId=-1&mastheadURL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&storeId=10151 (http://www.lowes.com/pd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__?zipCode=74145&masthead=true&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_78453-98-2155_4294715682__%3FproductId%3D3129711%26Ns%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26pl%3D1%26currentURL%3D%253FNs%253Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%257C1%26facetInfo%3D&catalogId=10051&catalogId=10051&productId=3129711&pl=1&findStoreErrorURL=StoreLocatorDisplayView&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4047ff47ff%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404a974a97%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404d2f4d2f%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%404fc74fc7%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40525f525f%5D¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&Ntt=&URL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&langId=-1&langId=-1&mastheadURL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&storeId=10151)
True!... I did use rubber splicing tape under the vinyl electrical tape. :thumb: You're right, should have mentioned that... best water seal short of painting them with silicon caulk. also seals out air so that you only have to deal with the slow electrolytic degradation of contacts rather than regular old oxidation and corrosion.