Ecoboost Performance Forum

I was looking for a set of Rotors to compliment the newly acquired HAWK-5.0  Carbon Ferro-Carbon compound brake pads and found a couple of Good Quality Performance Rotors without having to break the bank..

The WAGNER Rotors are made from cast iron,while the BENDIX are made from ACP, Alloyed-Carbon Performance castings!
I believe Both Rotors have the Vane design feature which provides greater cooling capabilities @ a similar price point.  Z

Both Rotors Replace Original (OE) Part # DG1Z1125C

A precision cut finish of the outer diameter prevents improper balance issues that can result in a loss of vehicle control
A smooth finish aids in the proper seating of the friction resulting in less time needed for pad "break-in"
A unique vane design provides greater cooling capabilities resulting in increased stopping power and decreased noise, vibration and harshness
E-Shield coating is applied to all non-braking surfaces which prevents corrosion and is visually attractive
Tighter tolerance specifications reduce thickness variation and lateral run-out to ensure a balanced rotor that reduces pedal pulsation and extends pad life
Wagner utilizes a combination of premium grade iron, a stringent casting process and a controlled manufacturing environment which results in superior braking performance.



https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brandId=WB&pNum=BD180535E&partType=Disc%20Brake%20Rotor (https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brandId=WB&pNum=BD180535E&partType=Disc%20Brake%20Rotor)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6439056&cc=1503823&jsn=541 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6439056&cc=1503823&jsn=541)


The Bendix are madeBuilt to withstand severe duty performance demands with superior thermal stability and strength
SurfaceLok™ Coating is heat resistant and extends rotor life by limiting corrosion build-up
OEM driven machining specifications allow smooth pad-to-rotor contact, improving pedal response for safe driving in all conditions
Made from alloyed carbon performance rotor castings.


https://www.carid.com/bendix/fleet-metlok-premium-severe-duty-front-brake-rotor-mpn-sdr6201.html#specifications (https://www.carid.com/bendix/fleet-metlok-premium-severe-duty-front-brake-rotor-mpn-sdr6201.html#specifications)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7480876&cc=1503823&jsn=579 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7480876&cc=1503823&jsn=579)

I have the bendix rotors on my SHO for the past 2000+ miles and have had no trouble at all. Helped stop me a few times this winter in Cleveland, Ohio. Plus there is a bendix plant about 25 minutes west of Cleveland so I figured I would support local haha.

Both solid choices.... I personally/professionally would go with Bendix.

I don't have experience with those brands, but I would throw EBC into the ring.  EBC does make blank rotors as well as the fancy looking slotted ones.  I like them because they are hard core about quality control.  Don't know if they tread into "Break the bank" territory, but I expect they'd be pricier than Bendix and Wagner, even for blank rotors.  Check it out, their page is interesting enough to read through.  I'm running their slotted rotors and pads.  https://ebcbrakes.com/product/premium-oe-rotors/

I've had Wagners warp on me.  Different car,  but IIRC they were only 2-3 years old. 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I appreciate all the replies from above and after much research might go with the ACDELCO Specialty Police Rotors .Z
[18A2946PV]

Damped iron metallurgy reduces noise and dissipates heat
Enhanced vane configuration increases air flow, providing a consistent low temperature throughout the rotor
Fast recovery rate from friction heating after brakes have been applied
Significant reduction of brake fade at high temperatures
A polymer coating acts as armor against the elements to help reduce corrosion
Mill balanced to reduce vibration

Bolt Hole Quantity   5
Outside Diameter (in)   13.8
Slotted   No
Bolt Circle Diameter (IN)   4.5
Construction   Full Cast
Material   Cast Iron
Nominal Thickness (in)   1.260
Surface Type   Smooth
Height (in)   1.8
ABS Sensor Ring Included   No
Solid Or Vented Type Rotor   Vented
Lug Quantity   5


Driving Style: Daily Driver, Hauling & Towing, Performance / Racing
Rotor Design: Rotors Only
Rotor Construction: 1-Piece
Rotor Style: Slotted
Rotor Material: Cast Iron
Rotor Finish: Turned
Rotor Type: Vented
Rotor Diameter: 345mm (13.58")
Rotor Height: 38.1mm (1.5")
Nominal Thickness: 18.999mm (0.748")
Lug Holes Quantity: 5
Bolt Circle: 114.3mm (4.5")

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896)

New ACDelco Specialty Performance Rear Rotors arrived today safe and sound!  :)  Still waiting for the Fronts. Z




https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9167072&cc=1503823&jsn=60 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9167072&cc=1503823&jsn=60)

Vented rears, nice.

I'm now in need for new stoppers as the power stops I installed over 40k miles ago have finally gone bye bye.  I want to to a different route as I was please with the power stops except when they were cold.  I wonder how these rotors would work with a set of EBC Red pad.

If you want to go EBCs, skip red, go straight to Yellow (or Orange if available).

New Front Rotors arrived today safely snug as a bug.  :)
They seem pretty Beefy IMO and hopefully will have them installed by next week.  Z

Cool looking rotors Z!  Be interesting to see how they do for you.

interesting design as a fan of ebc slotted. i assume the cut outs are for better cooling,but wonder how the effect the integrity of the rotor. is the black mounting side will stay black, nice touch. unlike the ebc's that came in black but was on the surface & wore off immediately.

I'm hoping they perform as well as they look along with the Hawk 5.0 brake pads. I appreciate the kind words from ^^^. Z   :)

Hey Z...did you compare the 5.0 pads vs. the LTS?  If so why the decision to go with the 5.0?

Just looking at the pad characteristics it looks like the LTS would give you greater thermal range and minimally sacrifice some noise.  All the other characteristics were basically identical.

Quote from: r1crusher on March 20, 2019, 11:45:59 PM
Hey Z...did you compare the 5.0 pads vs. the LTS?  If so why the decision to go with the 5.0?

Just looking at the pad characteristics it looks like the LTS would give you greater thermal range and minimally sacrifice some noise.  All the other characteristics were basically identical.

True indeed! I just wanted the newer version brake Pads on the market for comparison! Thanks.  Z

Brake Pad "Break in procedure for "Severe Duty" vehicles" Bulletin BPI 09-06

Subject: Brake Pad Burnishing
Vehicle Involved:   Severe Duty applications, such as police service or before track testing
Condition: After replacing brake pads
Repair Procedure:   When replacing brake pads, a "break-in" or "burnishing" procedure is recommended to properly condition both the brake pads and brake rotors for best service and long life.
The burnish process, if done correctly, does at least three things to the pads and/or the rotor:

1.   Physically and thermally converts the composition of the pad and/or rotor surfaces.
2.   Smoothes the asperities (roughness, unevenness) of the mating surfaces.
3.   Heat cycles the entire pad structure.
For anticipated severe duty, such as police service, or before track testing, a more intensive burnish procedure should be performed.
This recommended procedure is:
•   8 moderate brake applications from 40 to 10 mph at approximately ¼-mile intervals.
•   8 somewhat harder brake applications from 60 to 10 mph at approximately ½-mile intervals.
•   Drive 1.5 miles
•   * 5 hard (but less than ABS) applications from 80 to 20 mph at 3/4-mile intervals. Drive at least two miles after last application.
•   Allow brakes to cool at least 15 minutes either by parking the vehicle or continuing to drive at moderate speeds with minimal brake applications.

*If practical. If not, repeat the 60 to 10 mph section.
The brake friction materials and rotors are now ready for service.
Notes:
1.   The "hard" applications do not need to be at precise deceleration rates as the amount of energy dissipated will be the same.
2.   Some odor and smoke from the brakes is normal during and after the 60 and 80 mph sections.
3.   Even after completion of this procedure some fade, odor, and smoke may occur initially if the vehicle is immediately subjected to hard high speed braking.


"Break in procedure for daily driver vehicles" Bulletin BPI 09-05

Subject: Brake Pad Burnishing
Vehicle Involved: All Normal "Street" vehicles
Condition: After replacing brake pads
Repair Procedure: When replacing brake pads, a "break-in" or "burnishing" procedure is recommended to properly condition both the brake pads and brake rotors for best service and long life.
The burnish process, if done correctly, does at least three things to the pads and/or the rotor:

1.   Physically and thermally converts the composition of the pad and/or rotor surfaces.
2.   Smoothes the asperities (roughness, unevenness) of the mating surfaces.
3.   Heat cycles the entire pad structure.
For "normal" street service 8 to 10 moderate applications from 40-10 mph is sufficient. Then allow the brakes to cool for at least 15 minutes either by parking the vehicle or continuing to drive at moderate speeds with minimal brake applications.

"When replacing brakes, make sure to lubricate all necessary parts to help reduce noise and other issues. The inside of the brake box will identify all the necessary parts that need to be lubricated."

I was quite interested in finding these same rotors but it would appear they have suddenly become difficult to come by.  I have found that Raybestos has some very similar rotors (680982PER and 680983PER) and they are more readily available.  Now I to decide on some decent performing pads.

(https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/agb-680983per_hr_ml.jpg)

Still looking forward to hearing how your setup performs, Z.

Quote from: r1crusher on March 26, 2019, 10:58:42 PM
I was quite interested in finding these same rotors but it would appear they have suddenly become difficult to come by.  I have found that Raybestos has some very similar rotors (680982PER and 680983PER) and they are more readily available.  Now I to decide on some decent performing pads.

(https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/agb-680983per_hr_ml.jpg)

Still looking forward to hearing how your setup performs, Z.

The Raybestos is the best alternatives to the ACDELCO and are pretty much identical and have the same pattern designed with S-Groove slots.
No worries Kevin I'm currently installing the rears and will keep you updated on all counts. Z  :)

FRONT

$62.79  ea.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8826148&cc=1503823&jsn=10542&jsn=10542 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8826148&cc=1503823&jsn=10542&jsn=10542)

REARS

$41.79 ea

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8826156&cc=1503823&jsn=10535&jsn=10535 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8826156&cc=1503823&jsn=10535&jsn=10535)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896)

Yep I was thinking Raybestos all the way around for rotors and PP pads. Pad decision is way harder than the rotors thats for sure.

Quote from: Macgyver on March 27, 2019, 08:16:50 PM
Pad decision is way harder than the rotors thats for sure.

^----This!----^

There are a number of "Severe Duty/Police" pads available also which I'm leaning towards.  I needed to make a decision like last week because driving the F250 isn't nearly as exciting.  :P

Here are a couple of before and after Pics of the Rear Rotors for comparison.  :)
Need to bleed the brakes for good measures and found the Front Caliper had corroded and there was corrosion around the outer end of the caliper bore. Cleaning it up with a Dremel tool kit cured the issue of binding without delay.
Pics of the Calipers below.

The overall pedal feel is much firmer than before and will need to wait a couple of hundred miles for the brake in period. Z

Looks great Z.  How does your fluid look?  I cycled mine because it was red.  Pedal feel felt better after cycling it.

Quote from: sm105k on March 29, 2019, 02:33:44 PM
Looks great Z.  How does your fluid look?  I cycled mine because it was red.  Pedal feel felt better after cycling it.

The Brake fluid looked Golden Honey,as it was changed early last year using Motul RBF 600 Factory Line Dot-4 Racing Brake Fluid,thanks. Z

Wow, sexy rotors!
I liked the hospital n the 5.0 Hawks great pads. I like my current cost effective set up. UBC RK sport rotors PP pads.

Z is there any thing I should watch out for while I'm bleeding my brakes. I thought I read somewhere a special tool is needed.

Quote from: ddlopes on March 31, 2019, 04:46:32 PM
Z is there any thing I should watch out for while I'm bleeding my brakes. I thought I read somewhere a special tool is needed.

Vacuum bleeder,to bleeder screw! Z

$32.99

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html)

Ok thanks Z. I have a Snap-on vacuum bleeder I use for my motorcycle. I'll be using that to swap out the brake fluid.  Btw ....love how the new rotors look!!! Hopefully after you put some miles on them you'll do a review. Thanks again for your help...!!!

FYI-I received quite a few Pm on this setup and here is a Brief Update On the ACDELCO & Raybestos NEW "S-GROOVE" SLOT DESIGN Rotors and Hawk 5.0 Brake pads.

I installed this Brake Setup less than 2 weeks ago and just wanted to Break-in (Mate) these Brakes accordingly to manufactures Specifications before posting my initial impressions,while my experience has ultimately been Good thus far.  :)

I must admit my initial thoughts were a bit disappointing because the Hawk 5.0 Brake Pads did not respond or Grip like the Stock Setup which gripped quickly with the slightest Touch while cold  and the Hawk pads do require a bit more pedal pressure for quick stops,but do come through and stop on a Dime.

FYI-Beware that the OEM Stock Pads are Built to perform more on the Cold side versus High performance Brake Pads which perform lineal when Braking,so initially did not expect them to Bite like the Oem the or until Fully warmed up.

I noticed the past week the brakes are starting to Feel more aggressive as the days progress and gripped quickly with a moderate Pedal touch and are Performing much better than the first week which proves that the Bedding procedure sometimes may take weeks or up to 200-400 miles in order for the Rotors and Pads to start performing the way you would expect!

The only Negative so far is they are a slight Bit noisier than the Stock Setup when applying the Brakes Hard due to the "S-GROOVE" SLOT AFAIK

Conclusion- Its starting to get some of that initial Bite (Feel) that the Oem Pads had with Far less Brake Dust which is a Positive and overall a happy Camper with zero regrets. 

I also performed a Brake system Flush once again using Motul RBF 600 Factory Synthetic Brake Fluid for a peace of mind. Z :)

If you have any further questions feel free to ask!


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


http://www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybestos_rotors.php (http://www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybestos_rotors.php)

Raybestos® R300 Rotors: LESS PEDAL EFFORT, MORE BRAKING POWER
FEEL THE ADVANTAGE OF NEW "S-GROOVE" SLOT DESIGNS ENGINEERED FOR STRONGER BITE, SMOOTHER BRAKING AND INCREASED PAD LIFE • The Best possible pedal feel thanks to maximized pad to rotor surface contact • Pad life increased up to 30% by preventing brake fade and promoting out-gassing • Superior "panic-stop" braking due to high-flow, clog resistant vane designs • Less prone to cracking that takes place on traditional drilled rotor designs SEE THE RESULTS OF TWO CORROSION-RESISTANT COATING FORMULATED FOR OPTIMAL COOLING, AND PREMIUM RUST PROTECTION • Premium appearance and longevity because protective formula covers entire rotor surface • Rust-free edges, vanes and rotor hat credited to all-weatherdefense polymer coating • Withstands 300 hours of saltwater exposure as proven by salt spray test regulation ASTM-B117 • Prevents edge lift by presenting the most favorable contact surface for a brake pad.


BRAKE TECH: BRAKE PAD & ROTOR BED-IN PROCEDURES

BRAKE TECH: HAWK BRAKE PAD COMPOUNDS (STREET)

https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=316 (https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=316)

https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85 (https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85)

The only cautionary note I would have with aftermarket fluid in 2013+ SHOs is that DOT 4 LV is specified.  This fluid is low viscosity, and meant to improve ABS/traction control in lower temps.  There are a couple of mfrs that make compliant fluid, but match up specs to be sure.

Quote from: SHOdded on April 12, 2019, 08:38:32 PM
The only cautionary note I would have with aftermarket fluid in 2013+ SHOs is that DOT 4 LV is specified.  This fluid is low viscosity, and meant to improve ABS/traction control in lower temps.  There are a couple of mfrs that make compliant fluid, but match up specs to be sure.

No LV (Love) Z  :D
Thanks Manu!  :) I used Pentosin on my German imports with Good results!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/dot-4-lv-brake-fluid-1-liter-1224116 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/dot-4-lv-brake-fluid-1-liter-1224116)

[BRAKE FLUID FOR COMPARISON]

Product Name

Dry boiling point

Wet boiling point

Motul RBF 660
(Track)

325 °C (617 °F)

204 °C (400 °F)

Motul RBF 660

Motul RBF 600
(Track/AutoX/HPDE)

312 °C (594 °F)

216 °C (421 °F)

Motul RBF 600

ATE Type 200
(Daily/AutoX/Light Track)

280 °C (536 °F)

198 °C (388 °F)

ATE Type 200

Pentosin Super DOT4
(Daily/AutoX)

265 °C (509 °F)

165 °C (329 °F)

Pentosin Super DOT4

BMW Brake Fluid
(Daily)

265 °C (509 °F)

170 °C (338 °F)

Genuine BMW Brake Fluid

ATE SL.6
(Low Viscosity) (Daily)

265 °C (509 °F)

175 °C (347 °F)

ATE SL.6

Pentosin DOT4 LV
(Daily)

265 °C (509 °F)

170 °C (338 °F)

Pentosin DOT4 LV

Rowe DOT4 LV
(Daily)

260 °C (500 °F)

170 °C (338 °F)

Rowe DOT4 -LV

PENTOSIN DOT 4-LV

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+fluid,11389 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+fluid,11389)

SPEC'S
Size   1 Liter
Boiling Point   =265°C/=509°F
Density at 20C   1062 kg/m³
Flash Point   >130°C/>266°F
Ignition Temperature   >200°C/>392°F
Kinematic Viscosity at 20C   12 mm²/s
Kinematic Viscosity at 40C   6.4 mm²/s
Kinematic Viscosity at 40C   < 700 mm²/s
Melting Point   >-50°C/>-58°F
pH Value   Slightly Alkaline
Wet Boiling Point   =170°C/=338°F
Color   YELLOW AND CLEAR

When this gentleman "tested" viscosity above freezing, the flow of fluid wasn't all that dissimilar between types.  Below freezing, however is where the difference was. Since you are in a state well known for icicles and the like, you can evaluate how it works for you.  If you had motorcraft oem fluid in there, especially.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpMcG3WiN8M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpMcG3WiN8M)

I purchased a quart of PENTOSIN DOT 4-LV @ local Autozone for  $19.99!
  :bigthanx:  to SHOdded for pointing out the difference in LV Compatibility.  Z  :)

(http://i67.tinypic.com/i40lg0.jpg)

Hope it helps!

This is what I used...