Hello, I'm fairly new here and have a 2010 Limited ecoboost. When I got it in September of last year the engine and both turbos had been replaced at about 80K and it now has 150K. It started smoking a little, then I heard some squaling from the engine area, and now it smokes ALOT. The front turbo has oil leaking from it, but I can't tell if its just the drain tube or leaking from somewhere else. The rear doesn't appear to be leaking.
My question is, is there any way to tell the turbo has failed without taking it off? Can I pull the intake hose and feel for shaft play? It doesn't look terribly hard to remove but I don't want to pull it is its unnecessary.
I appreciate the help in advance
A visual inspection is going to be the best way to figure out if the turbo is involved. Might be a bad bearing, might even be the wheel if any grinding was heard. Pooling oil at the turbo is generally an indicator of its endoflife.
With any luck it is a feed line, but if the turbo is making a sound, replacing just the feed line would be delaying the inevitable.
Pull the compressor outlet hose off and look for oil. When the seals go bad, they blow oil through the outlet, through the intercoooler and into the engine.
I'd check the PCV system as well and the separator on top of the valve cover...Could be full of oil.
I appreciate the tips. I'm hoping to dig into this this week. I changed the PCV valve but did not check the separator. To do that do I need to pull the valve cover?
No, it is held on by 2 fasteners I believe. Comes right off.
YOu are correct, the separator is just held on with 3 bolts. Its off and I had condensation in there and it looks like its packed with a creamy mixture of oil and water crap. Can this thing me cleaned out or flushed?
you can try, but it is better to replace it entirely. not expensive.
Quote from: 2010Limited on April 24, 2018, 10:32:43 AM
YOu are correct, the separator is just held on with 3 bolts. Its off and I had condensation in there and it looks like its packed with a creamy mixture of oil and water crap. Can this thing me cleaned out or flushed?
i've heard a couple people mention that you can clean it but when mine failed i chose to replace it. also, after i had the old one off the car i saw no way of separating it to clean it inside. i would highly recommend a replacement unit.
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I flushed it for now. I need to see why the turbo is leaking oil. I can't imagine the separator is the cause of oil leaking at the turbo so I'll replace that later. I also just did a huge favor for a local ford dealer so I may just have them look at it.
I replaced my separator... Ford had an updated piece that apparently helped with oil consumption.
The Oil Sep has TWO Bolts and ONE rear Retaining clip which can easily be removed using an 8mm socket and a flat head screw driver and simply pull and twist off.
The 2010My has a heated version PCV Valve IIRC! Z
Quote from: ZSHO on April 24, 2018, 01:43:36 PM
The Oil Sep has TWO Bolts and ONE rear Retaining clip which can easily be removed using an 8mm socket and a flat head screw driver and simply pull and twist off.
The 2010My has a heated version PCV Valve IIRC! Z
I have the heated PCV and (3) bolts on the Sep.
Quote from: 2010Limited on April 24, 2018, 11:43:08 AM
I flushed it for now. I need to see why the turbo is leaking oil. I can't imagine the separator is the cause of oil leaking at the turbo so I'll replace that later. I also just did a huge favor for a local ford dealer so I may just have them look at it.
Umm yes the separator failing will cause oil to get pretty much everywhere in the intake pipes etc.
See below thread for reference when mine failed in a major way.
I pulled up almost a quart of oil from my CAC after the issue occured.
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8777.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8777.0.html)
Quote from: 2010Limited on April 24, 2018, 11:43:08 AM
I can't imagine the separator is the cause of oil leaking at the turbo so I'll replace that later.
Then you need to research pcv functions and effects on turbo applications and symptoms from inadequate pcv
Not that this is your particular problem but it absolutely could be.
So how can you tell if the separator is actually bad? Like I said I flushed it out, blew it out, and like the pcv I can hear the valve rattling. I'm assuming it would be the same function like the PCV valve if it's not stuck its OK.
But this is my first time working on something like this. I turbo'd my SpecV but this is quite different with a factory set up vs. my homemade turbo kit.
Do you know the part # of the updated separator? I tried searching and only come up with catch cans
Quote from: AJP turbo on April 24, 2018, 08:50:40 PM
Quote from: 2010Limited on April 24, 2018, 11:43:08 AM
I can't imagine the separator is the cause of oil leaking at the turbo so I'll replace that later.
Then you need to research pcv functions and effects on turbo applications and symptoms from inadequate pcv
Not that this is your particular problem but it absolutely could be.
I just read through this and had nothing like what you had in there. Maybe 1/4 of what you had. If I get a chance I'll pull the hose and see how much is in there.
The compressor wheel and nut and still there and the wheel spins freely. I pulled a few hoses and it doesn't seem flooded with oil, but there was some in there. I'll try and post some pics up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180425/441eb84cfe937d4273cc7e21866fde1d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180425/51f7ac78de14b39a5491f1b8815f4bcb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180425/6771a4a77db45633cc561857b050e7df.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180425/f78201d926abde1e36b4522bd8bf8f08.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180425/64e649d9398c4e2a2ad32edfe6e75cf6.jpg)
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I decided to remove the turbo because it wasnt that hard. Here's where I'm at. There is no oil inside the turbo. The feed line area looks like it may have burnt a gasket or something. I'm not sure.
Let me know what you guys think. Also there was quite a bit of oil in the IC. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180425/6c10353fe87e0d45a109a4cc9795e9c4.jpg)
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Based on the picture of your separator and the milky mixture in there it is starting to fail and that is what is leaking oil into your intake pipes etc.
it may not have failed to the degree that mine did but that milky mixture should not be there. the separator is $100 from the dealer(cheaper online) and would be a quick easy fix. wait for others to chime in but I'm pretty sure that's your problem and is a worthy attempt at solving the issue rather than pulling the trigger on replacing a turbo.
worst case scenario you replaced a part that's going to go bad eventually anyway and removed it from the equation before spending more money on replacing hard parts.
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Might as well replace the feed line gasket and screen since you have the turbo off anyway.
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on April 25, 2018, 04:08:54 PM
Based on the picture of your separator and the milky mixture in there it is starting to fail and that is what is leaking oil into your intake pipes etc.
it may not have failed to the degree that mine did but that milky mixture should not be there. the separator is $100 from the dealer(cheaper online) and would be a quick easy fix. wait for others to chime in but I'm pretty sure that's your problem and is a worthy attempt at solving the issue rather than pulling the trigger on replacing a turbo.
worst case scenario you replaced a part that's going to go bad eventually anyway and removed it from the equation before spending more money on replacing hard parts.
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Indeed. I'll probably rebuild the turbo myself. Might as well get some XP for the fun of it
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OK, well the turbo is rebuilt and back in. Almost no blue smoke at idle....BUT with throttle it is still smoking. My plan is to pull and rebuild the rear turbo as well.
When I got the front turbo out, I noticed it was an aftermarket turbo. These were supposed to be replaced at the ford dealer in 2013. Anyways there was a leak at the feed line and come to find out the copper washer was on top, and the lower had a felt washer. I put it back together with the correct dual copper washer set up and it still leaks! No matter what I do I cannot get it to stop dripping.
Has anyone run into this problem with the oil feed not sealing?
There were several revisions to the oil supply/return lines for the 2010.
I went through four sets myself.
Ford finally got it right with the last revision.
Quote from: bpd1151 on May 04, 2018, 09:07:44 AM
There were several revisions to the oil supply/return lines for the 2010.
I went through four sets myself.
Ford finally got it right with the last revision.
I'm assuming that should be the current one available. I'll likely order one of those. Thank you
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Also just for giggles- let's assume I've fixed the problem. How long do you think it would take for the smoke issue to clear from the exhaust/IC piping?
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Also just for grins I'm poking around the rear turbo and it it wet where the wastegate actuator rod is (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180504/2e0d8155dcf00afd6d35aaffef4f3c01.jpg)
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Assuming it is leaking from there and not directly above, looks like a new rear turbo is the only fix.
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6137.msg133490.html#msg133490 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6137.msg133490.html#msg133490)
(https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/0d8d85ff54a36cfd890f760cc7182d2f/ee262db2e0fee7afaafdd529508d283d.png)
6 GB5Z-9G440-A Oil Pipe
Upper Pipe, RIGHT
3.5 LITER W/ TURBO
$102.04 $64.54
7 GB5Z-9T516-A Oil Pipe
Upper Pipe, LEFT
3.5 LITER W/ TURBO
$68.31 $43.21
8 AA5Z-00812-AB Oil Pipe Bolt
Upper Pipe Bolt, LEFT/RIGHT
3.5 LITER W/ TURBO
$8.50 $4.89
9 AA5Z-6A863-B Oil Pipe Connector
Upper Pipe Connector, LEFT/RIGHT
3.5 LITER W/ TURBO
$23.22 $16.02
Quote from: SHOdded on May 04, 2018, 11:33:27 AM
Assuming it is leaking from there and not directly above, looks like a new rear turbo is the only fix.
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6137.msg133490.html#msg133490 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6137.msg133490.html#msg133490)
New or rebuilt? I just rebuilt the front turbo.
I'll see if I can look on top but it seems dry above it.
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If you find a way of taking the actuator rod/lever off, let us know. I have not seen an official procedure to do so in the manual. Might be a replaceable seal that's all that's needed, but just guessing here.
Def no leaks from the PTU though, right? Maybe clean off the gunk on the actuator and see if it comes back?
Quote from: SHOdded on May 04, 2018, 11:44:14 AM
If you find a way of taking the actuator rod/lever off, let us know. I have not seen an official procedure to do so in the manual. Might be a replaceable seal that's all that's needed, but just guessing here.
Def no leaks from the PTU though, right? Maybe clean off the gunk on the actuator and see if it comes back?
Maybe I'll clean as best I can and see. Not sure if the PTU is leaking. I hope not. I love this truck but it's becoming a PITA
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Pulled my rear turbo exhaust pipe and found this (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180504/da3756f4029a335760fc4d48917f5ddd.jpg)
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Condensation or oil?
Quote from: Gray Brick on May 04, 2018, 04:02:02 PM
Condensation or oil?
Mostly oil and the same nasty crap that was in the separator
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I would guess mine are in similar shape at 130k miles.
A little smoke on startup but nothing crazy.
Mine smokes bad enough you can't drive it
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Just found this! Guess my rear turbo is toasted!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/c0e15546d76e1c45a692f1ce6925e27c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/85c7fae569280963182f96a0be610ea9.jpg)
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Ugh.
Quote from: 2010Limited on May 07, 2018, 07:53:40 AM
Just found this! Guess my rear turbo is toasted!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/c0e15546d76e1c45a692f1ce6925e27c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/85c7fae569280963182f96a0be610ea9.jpg)
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That'll buff right out.
Joking aside, sorry to see that failure, but now you know the source of the noise you heard, the milkshake in your exh pipe and the smoke. At least turbos for these cars are relatively inexpensive. Damage like that you are going to need the entire turbo and cannot replace just the CHRA.
Big question now for you is, do you stay stock or go ATP.
Quote from: lamrith on May 07, 2018, 11:28:45 AM
Quote from: 2010Limited on May 07, 2018, 07:53:40 AM
Just found this! Guess my rear turbo is toasted!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/c0e15546d76e1c45a692f1ce6925e27c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/85c7fae569280963182f96a0be610ea9.jpg)
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That'll buff right out.
Joking aside, sorry to see that failure, but now you know the source of the noise you heard, the milkshake in your exh pipe and the smoke. At least turbos for these cars are relatively inexpensive. Damage like that you are going to need the entire turbo and cannot replace just the CHRA.
Big question now for you is, do you stay stock or go ATP.
I'm actually glad I found the source of the problem. I'll just stay stock. I don't trust the rest of it now
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