So 1st I'd like to say sorry to all those i havent replied to in other threads, life has been kinda hectic.
Now with that out of the way...
CEL/MIL (what do we call it with Fords, lol) came on a couple days ago right after a fillup, which i thought was odd, because the tank is capless, but i assumed was related. Well, u know what Samuel L. Jackson says about assumptions... "It makes an Ass out of Umption".
Went to Advance to let them check it, they didnt have the scanner (only in the hood, smh). No matter, my father has one that i can borrow... still didnt check. Well, LO' AND BEHOLD... yesterday evening after going to check out some live music (all of this is irrelevant, but whats a good story without a back... hmmm... anyway) i go to start my car and it takes long time to start and the engine starts running rough. i figure fluid buildup from intercooler, which might pass, but it doesnt... MIL starts flashing, no smoke... but heavy unburnt gas smell, like the spark-plugs aren't burning it all, but SOO much more prevalent than that usually smells.
Long story made even longer...
i check codes this morning
I get
p0020
p0150
p0300
p0304
p0305
Read a post here that suggested that i might have pulled a wire when i was acting stupid trying to get into a parking spot i shouldnt have. Well, it actually said that there were wires on the SHO near the radiator... and i added the rest to my personal description.
So i pull it up on the ramps, pull of the bumper, check wires... turn on car again... runs rough for a minute or so... starts blowing white smoke, with less strong, but still significant unburnt gas smell.
Check scanner, throws a new code
p00c6
Engine is running fairly smooth, but still rough... taking long time to start, most times. With my general car knowledge... I figure it could be fuel rail, distributer, leaking seal, praying not a head gasket (but no oil present, white smoke, not blue)
Thoughts?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/0dfacb85ae37f0069ec34ca17093a785.jpg)
I saw some sort of fluid on the intercooler which leaked onto the bottom of the "cow-catcher" as well.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/db913541db6edba36ee18c7da7c73f07.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/316e9c1c50b0cf6951e4820c242329fd.jpg)
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So you have misfires on the front bank (4,5), a random misfire, cam actuator and O2 sensor malfunction codes. The upstream O2 sensor on Bank 2 does go bad, even though you don't specifically have a code for that. Sometimes pins get dislodged in connectors, as in the case of the camshaft actuator circuit error.
What oil/filter have you been using on the MKS? I don't think the phasers are junked up or anything tho.
Sounds like leaky injectors to me at first guess. I'd pull the plugs, see if they smell of fuel. To eliminate COPs as the source, you can swap 4/5 with 6 and see if it makes a difference (or buy 1 new COP for testing purposes).
Quote from: SHOdded on July 07, 2016, 06:43:18 PM
So you have misfires on the front bank (4,5), a random misfire, cam actuator and O2 sensor malfunction codes. The upstream O2 sensor on Bank 2 does go bad, even though you don't specifically have a code for that. Sometimes pins get dislodged in connectors, as in the case of the camshaft actuator circuit error.
What oil/filter have you been using on the MKS? I don't think the phasers are junked up or anything tho.
Sounds like leaky injectors to me at first guess. I'd pull the plugs, see if they smell of fuel. To eliminate COPs as the source, you can swap 4/5 with 6 and see if it makes a difference (or buy 1 new COP for testing purposes).
pardon my Newbness... COPs?
And yes i did type correctly... it's an MKT not an MKS, so i guess it should look more like a Flex or Explorer under the hood, but i have found (from looking at pictures and things here) that it seems more like the non-pp SHO. (Seriously considering waisting my money on adding/switching PP parts like an PTU intercooler, dont yell at me... i might have to replace the PTU anyway, lol)
Anyway, back to topic...
Checked plugs... a small amount of liquid (oil or gas)... i don't think i have an oil seal or gasket leak... thinking that it might be a little bit of both the fuel injectors and fluid buildup from the CAC, (In the process of praying for my cats, lol)
If i can find my compression gauge, i'll run a test... anyone know what the numbers are supposed to be for that?
I cleaned off 4, 5, and 6 plugs (with electric parts degreaser and a soft metal brush, again don't scream at me). 4 was the one with the most fluid and buildup on it. 5 was black with some build-up, but no fluid. About to check 1, 2, and 3 for the heck of it.
Side note (because i dont think it's related, but i read that it could be):
Engine has about 25k on it since it was replaced/rebuilt by dealership (which is why i don't think it's related), i generally change oil 3k-5k miles... this particular time i ran about 8k (partially because i ran (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/d4391d9f95abfa76dc0812623dd7fbbc.jpg)
with a Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter.
This time around I have been replacing the oil lost (or "topping off") from the CAC with Royal Purple.
How do i get to the fuel injectors to check them?
Yall r awesome here, thanks guys!
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also... i have notice my gaps are around .36, i guess they also sell them about the same... should i bring it to .30 anyway? I saw some post about that.
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sry... .036, lol
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Whining noise from, what i think is, the fuel pump/rail/injectors preloading to get ready to start the vehicle... any ideas?
https://vimeo.com/173849777 (https://vimeo.com/173849777)
SHOdded will be able to give you much better advice than myself, but here's my thoughts...
1. Cool to see an MKT EB here. Not many of those around!
2. There should not be anything at all on the plugs. Can you show us pictures of the plugs? The ignition systems in these cars are very powerful and do a great job of cleaning any signs of problems. Where is the oil/fuel? If you have oil above the threads, you have a leaking plug well. If the porcelain/electrode area is wet, you probably have a blow head gasket or you have an injector stuck open.
3. Modern Ford's do much better with Motorcraft filters than any other brand/type. They aren't the best at filtering necessarily, but they do the best at oil flow control. Whether it's a 4.6/5.4 or EB, the anti drain back valve in the Motorcraft filters are the best for these cars.
4. Plugs should be gapped at .030.
How does the coolant look? Are you loosing any? Oil look milky?
Why are you on the second motor? I'm wondering if you have an issue that caused your first motor to fail and is not attempting to take out a second one?
Quote from: zstring on July 07, 2016, 09:32:50 PM
Whining noise from, what i think is, the fuel pump/rail/injectors preloading to get ready to start the vehicle... any ideas?
https://vimeo.com/173849777 (https://vimeo.com/173849777)
That noise makes me think that it is having to refill an emptied rail. I suspect you have an injector (or 2 or 3...) stuck open that is draining the fuel rail on shut down.
Random wire????
https://vimeo.com/173850924 (https://vimeo.com/173850924)
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Quote from: sholxgt on July 07, 2016, 09:44:58 PM
That noise makes me think that it is having to refill an emptied rail. I suspect you have an injector (or 2 or 3...) stuck open that is draining the fuel rail on shut down.
Tnx... will look into it... however i can, lol
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The POO20 is related to your cam shaft position sensor,there should be two wires that run from under the radiator and under the battery box,look for any fraying or splitting between the wires and if so probably need a new terminal kit,that alone will cause a host of issues,also noticed in your video above that the dipstick was missing correct? POOC6 is related to fuel and could be your fuel pressure sensor-relay...God willing and hopefully you have a second car to run errands and p/up some parts such as plugs,fresh oil and my PB MC OIL FILTER. Z
If the engine was rebuilt by a ford dealership 25k ago I would think it would be under warranty? I like to figure out things on my own but if its under warranty I would have it towed to the dealership that rebuilt it and get a rental from them.
Good summary, sholxgt :thumb:
The 0.036 gap is fine on a stock tune. You have some time before the plugs would need replacement. But yeah, fouled plugs are from oil or fuel contamination or both. Let's go with the fuel contamination, based on the white smoke, get that taken care of first. I would NOT try to clean the plugs, the center electrodes are easily damaged, not worth risking the engine over a few dollars worth of parts. My advice is to have a new set of Motorcraft plugs (SP534s) handy. They are theoretically gapped to 0.030 at the factory, but you can check (feeler gauge is best, not those rotary thingies).
Compression testing should test all cylinders, lowest being within 25% of highest reading. I believe 180 or so is a common reading. This is the table from the manual:
(http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/PerfA_ZN0W/2010-up/Compression%20Test%20mdash%203.5L%20Gasoline%20Turbocharged%20Direct%20Injection%20GTDI%20Engine_zps5tnsusdh.jpg)
Do they spec 5W20 for the '10 MKT (yes I wised up LOL)? I think it was somewhere in the 2011 MY that they revised to 5W30. Anyway, the oil should be fine, as well as the EP filter. If you hear an extended rattle upon startup, then I would go back to using the Motorcraft FL500s filter. I don't like to mix oil brands when topping off, though spec wise (i.e., on paper) it shouldn't be a big deal. Keep the oil "pure" LOL, they do have additive differences.
COP = coil on plug, refers to the fact that each plug has its own ignition coil sitting on top of it.
Puzzling what that fluid on the intercooler and "cow catcher" is from. Did it feel oily to the touch? Is it possible the intercooler is somehow damaged?
As far as that loose wire goes, closest I can figure (i.e., pure guess) is that it is a Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge valve electrical connector. The purge valve sits in that area behind the intake manifold and the connector looks correct for it.
(http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/PerfA_ZN0W/2010-up/Evaporative%20Emission%20Canister%20Purge%20Valve%20mdash%203.5L%20GTDI_zpsvqfdbw7j.jpg)
Item Part Number Description
1 14A464 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge valve electrical connector
2 9G271 EVAP canister purge valve
3 — EVAP canister purge valve-to-vapor tube quick connect coupling (part of 9G271)
4 — EVAP canister purge valve-to-intake manifold quick connect coupling (part of 9G271)
5 9J279 Vapor tube
6 — Intake manifold boss (part of 9424)
7 9424 Intake manifold
Done for now will check the rest in the morning but I do have to say, I love you guys!!!! tnx lol
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okay... I, for the life of me, can not figure out how to get this #€!* intake manifold off!!!???!!?!!!!?! 😬😬😬
I have ALL of the hoses and connector disconnected.... wtf?!?
PLEASE HELP😩😩😩😫😫😫😱😱😱😱😱
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/769df486136cb77e0770b2e1e3bf2e5a.jpg)
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hold up... now i'm feeling REAL noobish... am i looking in the right place?
Fuel rail IS under the IM right?
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nvm... i feel dumb... forgot a coolant line
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Are you doing fuel injectors, then?
Quote from: SHOdded on July 12, 2016, 05:19:41 PM
Are you doing fuel injectors, then?
Wow... if i told you what i had to go through the past few months... my MKT has been off the road since we last spoke.
I had to buy a GDI puller kit... check the injectors... buy 2 new injectors... get the money and then find the injectors. It was a PITA!!!! Not to mention ALL of the other life issues i was dealing with at the time!
but i finally got them.
Now i am in the process of putting them back in... btw... i bought an O-Ring Kit... only to find out that it only had parts for 4 injectors... but luckily, the injectors i bought had rings and seals installed. Gonna have to reuse 2 old clips... oh well!
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i know that i saw replacement instructions on here somewhere... does anyone have a link to it?
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You mean this?
Quote from: SHOdded on September 14, 2016, 02:18:44 PM
You mean this?
PERFECT!!! tnx!!!
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Quote from: SHOdded on September 14, 2016, 02:18:44 PM
You mean this?
So... question... HOW important is it to torque to specs? Do i need to buy a torque wrench? lol
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On a fuel system, I'd say it's a requirement, not an IF. Torque wrenches from Harbor Freight work well enough to get by, and not expensive at all.
so... overall update.... over a year later! Replaced the injectors... helped A BUNCH... (at least i can drive it now!) Still have p0020 (ended up replacing it, but code came BACK up) and p0150. Now, I'm working on that
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Better late than never! P0150? First time I have seen that code mentioned. Will have to research.