Ecoboost Performance Forum

When I bought my '14 PP new I decided on a 20,000 mile ptu fluid change interval. I purposely bought a pp to get the ptu cooling and a drain plug. Now that I'm at 20,000 miles, it's time for a flush.

I must say this was much more difficult on the 13+ pp than my '11. The reason is that the full hole is occupied by the temp sensor. It is impossible to get out with the rear down pipe on.

This is not a how-to; but here are some pointers to anyone with a water cooler ptu and a temp sensor.

First I pulled the down pipe. Pretty straight forward.

You will see that the temp sensor (just above the cv shaft) has a heat shield. The heat shield is held on by two of the water cooler cavity screws (torx). Only loosen the very top torx and the one just below it (next to the turbo Inlet). The reason you only loosen them is that the lower bolt location is slotted so that the heat shield will slide up out of the way. The top hole is solid so it does not fall out. I used a t-27 on mine with a swivel and a 6" extension. That may have been slightly small but it worked;may actually be a t-30.

Once you have the heat shield out of the way it's almost impossible to loosen the temp sensor. After 15 minutes of starring and trying countless wrenches, I finally developed this sollution:

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/fe5c64904704be88f30b24528860ac65.jpg)

It is a 15mm crows foot with a short extension and a swivel. This allows you to slide in between the cooling jacket, cv shaft, and turbo oil return line. Worked perfectly!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/40981518811bc224727a2e3eb910d4b2.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/4127c3bd54938f8c47d7fcb065887795.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/c7f3ca4aa8e679caabb8bf872ad6f7e5.jpg)

Once you get the sensor out, then you can pull the drain plug with a 1/4" Allen.

Here is what mine looked like after 20,000 miles!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/e5e29be33e508f9bf2370db57e29b512.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/0fee724ea8cfe6a1fc8952eeda1673d0.jpg)

It should look like this when it drains:

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/b573d325c5a5e6e68d062f165e566d5b.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/d51ab2193ee2bc3258cea7177b201c2d.jpg)

It was great that as soon as I pulled the drain plug, all the black oil came flowing out. I flushed it a little with solvent and then pumped some new oil to flush the solvent out. Once it was flushed I cleaned and replaced the drain plug I filled the ptu until it flowed out the temp sensor hole. I actually got all 500+ ml in it!

Put everything else back in reverse order. Made sure to put the temp sensor wires back in its two holder clips (one on the water cavity cover, and one on the cooler lines above the rear output shaft). Remounted the down pipe and now she's good for another 20,000.

Hope this saves someone else some time and irritation.

John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great writeup John,knew you had to remove the DP in order to get to it,did you end up using the oem fluid and how long did it take cause its definetly on my list with 27k on her,thanks. Z

Yeah, I used motorcraft 75-140 full synthetic. As far as time, well that's a little skewed as I had to run to the parts store twice in my dads 512 cubic inch Plymouth...so I enjoyed myself. 😏  I probably worked on it for about 3 hours without starts and stops. If I did it again, I could probably cut that time in half knowing what I know now. Definitely worth it though. Oil was black! But it was still oil and hadn't turned to sludge yet. I think 20k is pretty reasonable for the effort and the ptu unit health.

Nicely done!  Notice any performance improvement as a result?

Probably just the placebo effect.  Seem to roll a tad it better, but is probably all in my head.

It would of been great if we all changed the PTU fluid prior to installing DP,especially on the performance package,eliminating time and money but eventually we all have to do it again,life time fluid ha.lol. Z

Quote from: 91hybrid on July 03, 2015, 09:42:07 AM
Probably just the placebo effect.  Seem to roll a tad it better, but is probably all in my head.

I think you are correct, I also noticed when I had mine changed that it seemed to be smoother. Especially on the freeway. Great write up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might have to do this since I got an AWD warning light.  No idea when it was done last or ever. 

Took my 15 XSport to the dealer yesterday to change the PTU fluid, and after about 45 minutes they come get me to tell me that they can't find the drain or fill. I told them where they were and they couldn't do it that late in the day and of course the cost was going to be more than the $89 they quoted me. So, looks like I'll be doing it myself. I only have about 13,000 miles on it, but don't want to wait until it's bad.

I had an idea and wonder what you guys think?

If I remove the drain plug and install an oil drain valve something on the lines of this valve with getting the correct size fitting or adapting one. http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC (http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC)

Then I would just drain the oil. Connect a fill hose to the valve, and pump clean oil back in, then close the valve, and remove the fill hose. Done.

One problem with your idea of just using the drain plug opening is that without removing the fill plug you can't know if you have the right amount of fluid in the PTU.

Also, this write up is for a Performance Package SHO which has the cooling unit.

IIRC Explorers do not come with the cooler unless it is a police interceptor so when you look under your car you should be able to see and access the fill plug as well as the drain plug.

Note that you should make sure you can remove your fill plug before draining the fluid.

Quote from: 66 Galaxie on September 03, 2015, 08:22:03 AM
One problem with your idea of just using the drain plug opening is that without removing the fill plug you can't know if you have the right amount of fluid in the PTU.

Also, this write up is for a Performance Package SHO which has the cooling unit.

IIRC Explorers do not come with the cooler unless it is a police interceptor so when you look under your car you should be able to see and access the fill plug as well as the drain plug.

Note that you should make sure you can remove your fill plug before draining the fluid.

My XSport has the PTU cooler, same as described above with the temp sensor. I looked and it's there, same as the pictures above.

Since the capacity is 1.1 pints of 75w 140, should be able to drain it and add the same amount back in.

Depending on the condition of the fluid and the actual factory fill, you may not get 1.1 pints out.  If the fluid is flowing OK, I would do at least 2 changes:  #1 with the same amount as came out so you can run the PTU for a short while and emulsify whatever might be remaining into suspension, and #2 with the 1.1 pints (or thereabouts) for the final fill.  Not a perfect way to do it, because level should always be checked after the fill, but ... 

Also consider using a product other than Motorcraft if you can.  Royal Purple & Amsoil are leading contenders.

So I am taking my 2013 PP in next week to have it flushed.  I let him know on the phone that they have to drop the downpipe to get to it and he seemed to know that but I forgot to ask them what it would cost so I guess I have to call back.  He made a statement that the 2013 PP's have "Less fluid" in them then the non-PPs?  I guess that's possible but I don't know that I am buying it??  Does anyone know if the service manual calls for different fluid amounts? 

The whole conversation left me with an uneasy feeling...LOL

The manual doesn't state 2 different specs for PP vs non-PP.  It may be that factory fill is less in the PP (doesn't make sense), but at service, OM spec should be followed.

18 oz or 0.53L of 75w140

Thats very odd indeed,you would figure the PP would take more fluid not less,had my RDU performed at the dealer a while back and the manuel calls for 2.4 pints but with the car running on and off on the lift he ended up using a total of two quarts and pretty much a simple process not like the PTU. Z

So...the dealer called and they said they wanted $350 to do the PTU fluid change on my 2013 PP.  I may still have them do it at a later time (car is in for the door handle recall) but may just attempt this myself given the cost. 

Quote from: ecoboostsho on September 09, 2015, 10:56:46 AM
So...the dealer called and they said they wanted $350 to do the PTU fluid change on my 2013 PP.  I may still have them do it at a later time (car is in for the door handle recall) but may just attempt this myself given the cost.

Its a pain in the butt to do ...... but not worth paying anyone$350 IMHO

Agreed. I have to drop the downpipe and wrestle with the temp sensor but after that it should be easier since it has a drain!

Good info!  I'm at almost 15k now.  So I'll be doing this soon.

Quote from: ecoboostsho on September 09, 2015, 11:28:30 AM
Agreed. I have to drop the downpipe and wrestle with the temp sensor but after that it should be easier since it has a drain!

With it having the drain...I bet you could get an exhaust shop to do it alot cheaper

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Quote from: BlackJac on September 03, 2015, 07:00:22 AM
Took my 15 XSport to the dealer yesterday to change the PTU fluid, and after about 45 minutes they come get me to tell me that they can't find the drain or fill. I told them where they were and they couldn't do it that late in the day and of course the cost was going to be more than the $89 they quoted me. So, looks like I'll be doing it myself. I only have about 13,000 miles on it, but don't want to wait until it's bad.

I had an idea and wonder what you guys think?

If I remove the drain plug and install an oil drain valve something on the lines of this valve with getting the correct size fitting or adapting one. http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC (http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC)

Then I would just drain the oil. Connect a fill hose to the valve, and pump clean oil back in, then close the valve, and remove the fill hose. Done.

I think that 89.00 sounds about right to have your RDU fluid changed,besides the inconvenience it sounds like you have a (tuner friendly)dealer and should be very fortunate,trust me your in good hands,sorry for the late reply.  Z

First off thank you 91hybrid for the instructions.  Without his write up, frankly I'd still be working on changing the fluid.  I wanted to post a few comments from my experience in changing the PTU on my 13 SHO PP.   I decided to change my fluid at 27,000 miles. 

In general there is very little room to work.   Getting to the PTU sensor (the fill opening) is extremely difficult.  I bought a similar wrench head that fits onto a ratchet extension however it must have been bigger because it was extremely difficult to get it to fit within the space given.  Make sure you have the similar tool 91hybrid shows initially, as I don't see any other options regarding access to the sensor.  I also had a difficult time removing the down pipe on the passenger side first.  I was in the process of replacing the OEM down pipes and found if I removed the driver side down pipe first, then the driver side down pipes.  Make sure to disconnect the PTU sensors and down pipe sensors before removal. 

As mentioned I changed the PTU fluid at 27,000 miles.  Upon draining, the fluid looked more like oil and less like gear oil.  No clumps or slug!  All great news in my mind.  I drained a total of approximately 14oz to 15oz.  While I don't think I needed to change the PTU fluid this early, I do have a piece of mind now that the fluid has been changed and is new.  Again these are just my observations based on my car.

(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/pjohnson_turner/2013%20SHO/PTU%20RDU%20Transmission%20Fluid%20Change/IMG_2966_zpslt9edmul.jpg)

(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/pjohnson_turner/2013%20SHO/PTU%20RDU%20Transmission%20Fluid%20Change/IMG_2961_zpsfeul0lot.jpg)

(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/pjohnson_turner/2013%20SHO/PTU%20RDU%20Transmission%20Fluid%20Change/IMG_2965_zpszvegpikx.jpg)

(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/pjohnson_turner/2013%20SHO/PTU%20RDU%20Transmission%20Fluid%20Change/IMG_2980_zpsdu52oakh.jpg)

(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/pjohnson_turner/2013%20SHO/PTU%20RDU%20Transmission%20Fluid%20Change/IMG_2977_zpsxw6i8ned.jpg)

Great pics & observations!  Very cool that the oil was "behaving" itself :thumb:  Hopefully the cooled design is working as advertised!

I think it looks like a change was absolutely necessary

AAAAHHH,nothing better than having reassurance and a peace of mind to go with it,Great stuff and just in time for track season,enjoy.  Z   :thumb:

I have  a question for those who have done the PTU fluid change on the 13 and up PP.  What does the other end of the temp sensor wire look like?  Could it be threaded thru a 15mm deep well socket and then the socket turned with Channellocks?  Would there be room for a socket?   Just asking because I am getting ready to do it.

I did mine at roughly 30k on her and here's the pic of the sensor and FYI the sensor did have some sludge build up,hope this helps any.  Z     (http://i.imgur.com/nyRtoUP.jpg?1)

I don't think you'll have room to get the channel locks on. I'd buy the wrench in the first picture on this thread. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Z how long did it take you?  did you use a lift?

Quote from: SHOme on May 06, 2016, 01:37:37 PM
Z how long did it take you?  did you use a lift?

I have an extended warranty & great relations with my Dealer so essentially was quoted roughly around 300.00 for the PTU Flush and as a courtesy they performed the procedure for 150.00 using my own fluid and they flushed it out twice and two quarts are needed,definitely would recommend Amsoil,Redline 75w-140 gear oil,BTW maybe you can negotiate some kind of deal since you just purchased your car from them and also think they stated 3.0 hrs for the job. How many miles on your SHO?  Z

 Thanks Z 27000 miles so I need to get it done

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

nice write up. my sho has 45k on it so its in dire need of a change.

I got my PTU oil changed.  It looks like it was thickening.  The shop said they filled it then ran it and then drained it again.  Second drain was better looking.  He gave me the oil from both drains.  He also drained and filled the tranny 3 times running the car in-between.  I'm now at 29k.  I will agree that 25-30k miles is on the money for a change.  I used Amsoil severe gear.  A little background on me is this is my second SHO.  The other was a 2010.  It smoked a PTU around 80k and the torque converter began to fail at 105k.  I am going to take better care of the drive train on this one.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

:thumb:  Did you grab some pics of the fluids they changed out?  What's in the trans now?

I have the fluid at the house in zip lock bags.  The fluid from the first drain was sticking to the bag.  The second(flush) was dirty but did not stick to the bag as bad. The third was good. I can post the first and third samples when I get a chance.  He used Fomoco trans fluid.  He showed me a sample of the trans fluid after first drain.  very dark but no burnt smell.

Also the mechanic that did my service said he filled the PTU from the vent.  He did not remove the DP.  He said he put 18 oz in it.  I believe this to be the correct amount.  Does this sound right?  If it is over filled it would just puke out the vent right?  If it puked out the vent I am sure I would smell it correct?  Reassurance needed here.

Well, since your SHO has the perf pkg, not sure why he needed to use the vent to fill at all.  For flushing, I could see a use.  Per Windstang's recent posts, seems like it should have a oneway valve?  So TBH I don't know.  Does your SHO already have the vent extension up near the brake fluid reservoir?  Not sure if he knew that's not a fill hole.

I gave him the procedure when I dropped it.  There must not be a valve. He did it 3 times.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

It does sound easier to fill it through the drain tube though especially for guys that don't have a lift.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Vent tube

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

where is the PTU vent tube ?

is it OK to fill there ?

when changing the PTU fluid is it possible to over fill it and cause a problem ?

Im sure someone here knows and it would be great to see a picture.  I did not ask my mechanic but I can stop by and get him to show me.  It is supposed to hold 18 oz.  That is what he put back in it after flushing 3 times.  I have driven almost 1000 miles since with no issues.

This is directly from Ford...WSM,hope it help's any and let me know if anyone wants me to Sticky it...  Z     https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8JUL90DXgdiMDRVVDhUUE9DRlN5TlAxWW5FX1picnE5SlNj/view?usp=sharing

Hmmm ... let me give it some thought Z ...   maybe a separate section for FSM excerpts is in order, linking back to howtos as applicable.

Does this answer any of my or 68gt questions?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Maybe you can spot it in this video (the focus in here makes me dizzy LOL)
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHdmzaRj10E#)

Additional tips from a fluid change on an MKS
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6442 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6442)

I stopped by and talked to the mechanic who did my PTU today.  He disconnected the vent tube at the PTU and installed a longer tube that came up above the engine to fill through.  Then he reinstalled the vent tube.  I asked him to extend the vent up next to the master cylinder du

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

During the next servicing so it will be easy and cheaper to do.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Interesting, To be honest I don't think I even saw the vent tube, space is so limited in that area! I need to see if I can get a look at it because I think the "leak" that has what appears to be gear oil all over the PTU and dripping down around the motor mount is coming from that vent tube. Just a longer one in place to keep it from leaking would be nice. Any idea how long the stock one is?

Looks like about a foot or so. I can see it from the top but can't get my hand on it.  Would have to get to it from underneath.  If I extend it it would make the fluid change easy.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Had my PTU changed again at 60k.  I used Amsoil last change at 30k.  It was thick but not chunky this time.  Definitely dirty.  I think I will do it again at 80k.  I am using Royal Purple this time because I couldn't get Amsoil in time.  Amsoil definitely held up better than FOMOCO in my opinion.  There was no tune or T-stat for the first 30k.  I would imagine the cooler T-Stat may have assisted the Amsoil performance. I also had the vent tube run up to near the master cylinder.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Picture of new vent location.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/c098c528e2558d3ac7d20b900657155c.jpg)

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Quote from: SHOme on May 12, 2017, 09:43:38 AM
Picture of new vent location.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/c098c528e2558d3ac7d20b900657155c.jpg)

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Exactly how I want to do mine. Did you use 5/16" ID hose?

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Same size as factory hose.  I didn't measure.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Wraitherx's experience with his 2014 Perf Pk SHO
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.0 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.0)

My fluid was way thicker than that at 30k. It was  and it was still thicker than the video but not as bad as the first time.  I had the same issue getting fluid in thru the vent tube I added. I was thinking if I slide a very small tube down the vent tube into the PTU and long enough to stick out of the funnel that would let the air out(slowly) while it filled.     I found a roll of small diameter heat shrink tubing that I might try next change. I'll post pics if it works.  I also thought about poking a small hole in the bottle so it drips and hanging it over the funnel and just let it drip overnight. 

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Love this transfusion therapy for the PTU :D

Quote from: SHOdded on July 19, 2017, 01:40:19 AM
Wraitherx's experience with his 2014 Perf Pk SHO
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.0 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.0)

Thank you shodded for moving it to the appropriate place!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote from: SHOme on July 19, 2017, 07:06:17 AM
My fluid was way thicker than that at 30k. It was  and it was still thicker than the video but not as bad as the first time.  I had the same issue getting fluid in thru the vent tube I added. I was thinking if I slide a very small tube down the vent tube into the PTU and long enough to stick out of the funnel that would let the air out(slowly) while it filled.     I found a roll of small diameter heat shrink tubing that I might try next change. I'll post pics if it works.  I also thought about poking a small hole in the bottle so it drips and hanging it over the funnel and just let it drip overnight. 

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

I was honestly thinking about cutting a small hole in the bottle but I actually prefer doing it the way I did because it allowed me to get a good measurement of how much to put in. That small diameter tubing may be a good idea though!  The fluid was more than likely thinned out after about 20 minutes of city driving so it was nice and hot for better flow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's short I would guess about 8 inches. It has the cap shown in my post above on it

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

I was at my dealer getting the last of my things done that I found when I bought the car. They only charge $60 for the PTU fluid change. I had it changed again to flush most of the rest of the old 30K crap out. I already had them change it the other day. Prolly think I am crazy. Dont care.

I hate you. :)  My dealer wont even discuss it.

Yeah don't even think I would blink an eye if I could get it done for $60.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Quote from: SHOme on July 20, 2017, 07:47:21 AM
Yeah don't even think I would blink an eye if I could get it done for $60.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

You and me both however, I've never bothered to ask about having my PTU flushed and filled


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote from: SHOme on July 20, 2017, 07:47:21 AM
Yeah don't even think I would blink an eye if I could get it done for $60.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

I'd do it every 25k for 60$

FYI if you have a Performance Package its roughly a 3hr labor involved at your local friendly Ford dealer.
The Passenger DP needs to be removed in order to gain access.
I was charged 150.00 including my very own gear oil which 2-quarts was needed in order to have it flushed out twice.
I heard it ranges from 200.00-300.00 IIRC.  Z
I guess if you want to Play you have to Pay.

Quote from: ZSHO on July 20, 2017, 10:46:58 AM
FYI if you have a Performance Package its roughly a 3hr labor involved at your local friendly Ford dealer.
The Passenger DP needs to be removed in order to gain access.
I was charged 150.00 including my very own gear oil which 2-quarts was needed in order to have it flushed out twice.
I heard it ranges from 200.00-300.00 IIRC.  Z
I guess if you want to Play you have to Pay.

Just pisses me off,  my Ford rep actually told me they will wait for failure and will not service the unit prior.   even if it were 400$ i would do it 1x a year at minimum because of the extra abuse we all do. 

Yet other dealers seem to cave and drain and fill without batting a eye-lash ...

Quote from: ZSHO on July 20, 2017, 10:46:58 AM
FYI if you have a Performance Package its roughly a 3hr labor involved at your local friendly Ford dealer.
The Passenger DP needs to be removed in order to gain access.
I was charged 150.00 including my very own gear oil which 2-quarts was needed in order to have it flushed out twice.
I heard it ranges from 200.00-300.00 IIRC.  Z
I guess if you want to Play you have to Pay.

I disagree that the DP needs removed.  It just makes it less of a PITA.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

Could one elongate the vent tube, drain ptu fluid by the plug, then refill through the vent tube using a Tumi 100cc syringe with O2 tubing into the vent tube? Instead of mechanic doing change I might attempt with a friend if this seems doable using ramps?

Has been done before on the Edge, so I would say completely possible on the SHO as well.  Do you not have the vent extension into the engine bay?

I was changing my PTU fluid and read about others adding a hose to the vent tube and extending it up to near the brake booster, so they could use the drain plug on 2013+ and refill using the hose. I liked the idea, I could not reach the vent hose clamp so I took it to a place who extended the hose for me and changed the PTU lube with Amsoil severe duty 75-140 diff fluid. It used about half the bottle.Here are points to consider.
With the car running you can hear alot of noise coming from the tube, even with the vent cap on.
There is a smell associated with the vent, venting diff lube smell, more noticeable when running and hot.
I took off my rear hood seal, bad move if you do this extension, the smell gets sucked into the cowl when heat or AC is on.
Makes it a 20 min job to empty and refill the PTU.
Cheap and easy to do.
May bend hose further behind firewall until needed to refill(making sure hose not get bent or crimped when heat hits hose, secure it properly).
(repost from other post on subject)

Just curious as to how much you guys have been getting out of your drains, and for those refilling through the sensor hole, how much you were able to put back in until it weeped? Even with the drivers side on stands and the rt side on the ground I only ended up with 12oz on my 13 PP. Happy to see that at almost 60k miles the fluid was still thin and nothing more than powdered steel stuck to the drain plug. The service manual called out 18oz as the capacity and I don't have any leaks, it's hard to believe 6oz is still trapped.
Fwiw, I popped off the vent tube and did the cheater method through the vent with a piece of clear tubing for the refill then popped the original vent tube back on.

(http://imgpond.novarata.net/thumbs/2018/09/PTU%20Drain%201%20_2_.jpg) (http://imgpond.novarata.net/uploads/2018/09/PTU%20Drain%201%20_2_.jpg)

(http://imgpond.novarata.net/thumbs/2018/09/PTU%20Drain%201%20_1_.JPG) (http://imgpond.novarata.net/uploads/2018/09/PTU%20Drain%201%20_1_.JPG)

Courtesy of a SHOforum member

Ford Taurus & Explorer Police Interceptor PTU (+ SHO w/PP) Fluid Change - The Easier Method
https://youtu.be/pQBjQAq3La8 (https://youtu.be/pQBjQAq3La8)

Quotearvinmahida
Published on Jun 28, 2019
THIS METHOD ONLY APPLIES TO VEHICLES THAT HAVE AN OE DRAIN PLUG. Make sure your PTU vent tube is clean and venting before performing this method. Failure to verify this may create pressure inside the PTU while filling and will result in a messy situation with gear oil going everywhere!

Today I'll be showing you an easier method of changing the PTU (transfer case) fluid in this 2013 Ford Taurus Police Interceptor Sedan. This method also applies to the Explorer Police Interceptor Utility and Taurus SHO with performance package.

Please note this is preventative maintenance and may remedy a small humming sound, but chances are if you can hear grinding or any louder sounds from your PTU, it's probably in need of replacement. You should expect to get around 11-14 fluid ounces of gear oil out of your PTU. If your unit is leaking, you should estimate how much should go back into your unit.

Parts I used:

1/4in (M)NPT In-Line Check Valve
https://www.grainger.com/product/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Brass-In-Line-Check-Valve-6D914 (https://www.grainger.com/product/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Brass-In-Line-Check-Valve-6D914)

1/4" Brass Hose Barb with Straight Fitting Style
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Brass-Hose-Barb-with-Straight-6AFH6 (https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Brass-Hose-Barb-with-Straight-6AFH6)

1/4in Brass (F)NPT 90° Union Elbow
https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Brass-Extruded-Union-Elbow-13Y888 (https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Brass-Extruded-Union-Elbow-13Y888)

Good luck, I hope this video helps!