Following ZSHO's recent posts upgrading his brakes I decided to pull the trigger on something similar.
I ordered a full set of Raybestos performance rotors and specialty police pads. I couldn't justify the cost of EBC/Hawk/etc. pads at $100+ for the fronts alone based on my driving needs. I'm hoping that the police specialty pads will give me better fade resistance while keeping the initial bite of the pads in all temperatures. The was my biggest complaint with the Power Stop pads...cold temp. bite was poor to me. I don't race or anything like that but there are A LOT of winding twisty roads where I live and the brakes heated up and had fade too easily for my taste.
Here's the part #'s (all prices are from Rockauto)...
Front:
Rotor - 680982PER - $58.79/ea
Pad - SP1611APPH - $43.79
Rear:
Rotor - 680983PER - $38.79/ea
Pad - SP1612PPH - $33.79
Just hope the front rotors and pads are the larger 352mm (if I recall correctly) for all the '13+ SHO's as well. I'll update when everything arrives and I start getting the stuff on the car.
Woo Hoo! :D
Here are the Specs on the Raybestos 680982PER Front Rotors! Best of luck and keep us updated. Z
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qlXNdY0CEUCGGLFeUdbV84U7Eac_n4L-/view?usp=drivesdk (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qlXNdY0CEUCGGLFeUdbV84U7Eac_n4L-/view?usp=drivesdk)
Part Number
:680982PER
Part Description
:Disc Brake Rotor
Sub-Brand
:Specialty - Street Performance
Grade Description
:Specialty
Brake Rotor Casting Type
:Vented
Brake Rotor Diameter, Outer
:13.858 in / 352.0 mm
Brake Rotor Thickness, Discard
:30.0 mm / 1.181 in
Brake Rotor Thickness, Nominal
:1.260 in / 32.0 mm
Height, Overall
:1.850 in / 47.0 mm
Performance Level
:High Performance
Surface Finish
Plain
Packaged Weight
:28.300 lb
Wheel Bolt Circle Diameter
:4.500 in / 114.3 mm
https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/catalog-part-search.html?PartNumber=680982PER (https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/catalog-part-search.html?PartNumber=680982PER)
So, here's a bit of an update on the new setup. I received all the rotors and pads from Rock. Rotors are nicely coated and not heavily covered in protective chemical coatings. I started the install on the front with the drivers side. Tore everything down and had a bit more time left on the Power Stop pads. But then my problems started when I found a torn piston boot due to the awesome design on these boots/calipers. Couldn't locate a simple rebuild kit immediately, several days to get one. I moved forward with the install of the new stuff and will likely just replace the entire caliper later on. The included hardware is hands down better then what was provided with the Power Stop kit. Also, the front pads have a weird adhesive backing on them and they are sticky when you remove the protective film. Kind of makes it difficult to install the caliper with the spring clips pushing the pads out and the sticky backing.
Now on to the front passenger side. But as I said my problems were just beginning. The car had been parked for about 3 weeks until I ordered brakes. Prior to that the wife and I both noticed a bit of an burning oil smell but not constantly. I pull the front passenger wheel and there is oil all over the rear of the motor and sub frame. How nice! So I pushed on to get the rotor and pads installed. Just like the drivers side there was a bit more life in the pads so that all told me my brake noises are in the rear. So I don't find any boot issues on this side and I put it all together and plan for an early evening bedding process on one of our quiet back country roads.
Bedding procedure for the specialty/police pads includes doing additional stops at different speeds as well as an additional "high" speed braking maneuver from 80 mph to 20 mph several times. I complete the bedding as outlined with a very tiny amount of pulsation...but nothing bad really. Brakes were still a bit hot but a consequent drive the following day the brakes felt very good, consistent bite and smooth stopping with no vibrations at all at speeds or stopping. Will need some more drive time to see how they continue to bed and cure more.
Upon my return I had a rather sizable pool of oil in my driveway so now the car is parked yet again until May 7th when I have a service appt. at the dealership. All I can think of is an oil line issue of some kind, feed or return to the rear turbo. I'll check the oil level and top off if needed when I return the car to stock and remove my tune just so I don't have any other issues to deal with.
Uuugghh.
Sorry to hear about the mischief! It could be related to the Front axle (Half-shaft) causing your oil leak! Please Keep us updated. Z
Could be oil feed line, and/or the turbo itself. Check the intercooler and accessible turbo piping in the meantime to see if anything is pooling in there.
Never got around to posting a couple quick picks of the installed "stuff". So here's a quick pick of a rear freshly installed and a front (super filthy from sitting and not getting a bath) after bedding them in.
Quote from: r1crusher on April 29, 2019, 10:51:08 PM
Never got around to posting a couple quick picks of the installed "stuff". So here's a quick pick of a rear freshly installed and a front (super filthy from sitting and not getting a bath) after bedding them in.
I actually like the pattern on the rotors with those wheels. Nice. Now it's time to paint those calipers!
Sweeeet! :thumb: Did you Flush the brake fluid! Best of luck. Z
Quote from: Agentlongwood on April 30, 2019, 12:01:21 AM
I actually like the pattern on the rotors with those wheels. Nice. Now it's time to paint those calipers!
I did consider painting the calipers and brackets but knowing that I will likely be tearing apart the fronts to replace boots or the entire calipers I didn't want to do the work twice.
Quote from: ZSHO on April 30, 2019, 06:31:18 AM
Sweeeet! :thumb: Did you Flush the brake fluid! Best of luck. Z
Same as above Z. I know there's more to be done so didn't seem logical to do a bleed twice.
Besides...the major oil leak is taking priority at the moment. This will likely be the last set of brakes I do on the car as it will likely have 140-150k miles on it when these wear out and I might be looking for something else before then.
I just swapped my 2010 to 2014 brakes with exactly those rotors and akebono pads and am super happy with the upgrade! Not going to change the master cylinder because I like the progressive feel of the 2010 master cylinder.