Are there any other after market drop in air filters other than K&N? I personally think the factory box is a very good design and want a more free flowing filter. I have used K&N in past and like there product. My only concern is using the right amount of oil. I am curious if there are any dry filters that can be cleaned and still perform well.
I don't know of any alternative drop-in filters - other than the stock one. How often would you need to wash and re-oil a K & N drop-in filter? The instructions suggest 50,000 miles. I never drive in dusty conditions and all I do is take the filter out and knock any bugs out of it once in a while.
I also modified my air box with a 3 inch hole in the left side and PVC drain pipe plumbed to an open space in the inner fender. I have no idea if that helps anything but it added some sound fluff.
Quote from: Brucelinc on March 06, 2014, 10:30:24 AM
I don't know of any alternative drop-in filters - other than the stock one. How often would you need to wash and re-oil a K & N drop-in filter? The instructions suggest 50,000 miles. I never drive in dusty conditions and all I do is take the filter out and knock any bugs out of it once in a while.
I also modified my air box with a 3 inch hole in the left side and PVC drain pipe plumbed to an open space in the inner fender. I have no idea if that helps anything but it added some sound fluff.
I have thought about that very idea myself. How and where did you punch through? I'd love yo see some pictures of that mod.
We need to get somebody involved with developing a good dry flow for EB applications. AEM, for example. I'm running the K&N now, but I've never been sold on oiled filters. Seems to be alot of fixed data out there.
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Quote from: IHeartGroceries on March 06, 2014, 12:06:20 PM
We need to get somebody involved with developing a good dry flow for EB applications. AEM, for example. I'm running the K&N now, but I've never been sold on oiled filters. Seems to be alot of fixed data out there.
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I've used oiled filters in the past and I've been very careful about the amount of oil used when "recharging" the filter. I don't know that the use of the oiled filter had any positive impact on the performance of the vehicle, but the placebo effect had me convinced that it did at the time. I later spent a couple of years as a shop manager and I saw a lot of gummy throttle bodies on vehicles with CAIs and oiled filters. Ultimately, that was enough evidence for me to avoid the use of oiled filters in my personal vehicles. Some time later, I stumbled across the video I've provided below. Use your own judgment, but I personally think the performance filters are more marketing hype than anything.
Cold Air Intakes Mythbusted (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI#ws)
It is difficult to have our cake and eat it, too. Without the oil, the cotton gauze filter like K & N would not catch enough dirt to be effective. If they elimintated the oil but added more paper and/or cotton gauze to improve the filtering capability, it wouldn't flow as well.
I have never had the need to clean and re-oil a K & N filter so I can't speak from experience but I wonder if some people who do re-oil get carried away with using too much. In any case, I suspect the performance benefit is minimal but the placebo effect is alive and well. I like the sound better, too.
Quote from: Joleat on March 06, 2014, 12:52:11 PM
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on March 06, 2014, 12:06:20 PM
We need to get somebody involved with developing a good dry flow for EB applications. AEM, for example. I'm running the K&N now, but I've never been sold on oiled filters. Seems to be alot of fixed data out there.
I've used oiled filters in the past and I've been very careful about the amount of oil used when "recharging" the filter. I don't know that the use of the oiled filter had any positive impact on the performance of the vehicle, but the placebo effect had me convinced that it did at the time. I later spent a couple of years as a shop manager and I saw a lot of gummy throttle bodies on vehicles with CAIs and oiled filters. Ultimately, that was enough evidence for me to avoid the use of oiled filters in my personal vehicles. Some time later, I stumbled across the video I've provided below. Use your own judgment, but I personally think the performance filters are more marketing hype than anything.
Is there any evidence that the Motorcraft filter is inadequate? It appears to provide all the flow that the engine can utilize (with out significant mods) based on dyno results. I've posted a couple of places on the forum that in back to back open hood dyno pulls using my '13 SHO with a large external fan blowing on the engine at 79 degrees and about 30% humidity... first with the OEM intake and filter (6000 miles on it, live on an unpaved dirt road) and then with the entire filter box disconnected and moved aside aside so there is no restriction and just an open intake pipe showed less than 3 HP difference.... There is some "on the street" corroboration now also.
Just FYI..
IMHO any significant flow restriction is likely between induction opening after the OEM box and exhaust tips.
I haven't seen any specific evidence. However, I think it is generally accepted that cotton elements flow better than paper. And the OE is paper, which is pretty typical.
The AEM cotton gauze is oil less, but unless I am mistaken, it is a filter developed by K&N. They even look like K&N filters.
I've used both K&N oiled and AEM cotton dry flow filters, albeit not on the SHO. Just the OE filter and the oiled K&N on the SHO.
I'd rather not mess about with the oil, especially seeing as there's a lot of data out there suggesting the AEM dry flow is a great filter, and I've personally had a good experience with then. The oil is a mess both inside and out of the engine/intake tract. Plus, there's information out there touting the effectiveness.
Also, the dry flow is cleanable, just like the oiled units.
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It sounds like the AEM filter is just what the OP is looking for.
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on March 06, 2014, 01:23:27 PM
I haven't seen any specific evidence. However, I think it is generally accepted that cotton elements flow better than paper. And the OE is paper, which is pretty typical.
The AEM cotton gauze is oil less, but unless I am mistaken, it is a filter developed by K&N. They even look like K&N filters.
I've used both K&N oiled and AEM cotton dry flow filters, albeit not on the SHO. Just the OE filter and the oiled K&N on the SHO.
I'd rather not mess about with the oil, especially seeing as there's a lot of data out there suggesting the AEM dry flow is a great filter, and I've personally had a good experience with then. The oil is a mess both inside and out of the engine/intake tract. Plus, there's information out there touting the effectiveness.
Also, the dry flow is cleanable, just like the oiled units.
iHG..... I Completely agree with you on all points... In fact no matter what we do an oiled filter will be oiling our induction tubing,turbos and beyond....
My comment was related to high flow and performance...
The point in my last post was that I haven't seen any evidence that the 3.5 EB can utilize any more flow than the stock box and OEM filter provide unless mods other than downpipes are done (at least that it can't translate it into performance) ... Sorry if I confused folks. I realize other issues may be at play.
Oh, I see what you're saying now.
Only thing I might add is that restriction is restriction. Any induction can benefit from reducing restriction. Generally, improvements to the intake, such as aftermarket solutions, reduce restriction, and usually also increase diameter, which would manipulate/incrase volume.
Additionally, if you're comparing paper to cotton, it is also worth analysing filtration effectiveness and efficiency.
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I have had the AFE dry filter in my Flex for about eight months now since I removed the Airaid CAI filter setup
Good fit in the stock box and seems to be well made
http://www.afeintakestore.com/afe-air-filter-31-10215-ford-edge-taurus-flex-fusion.html (http://www.afeintakestore.com/afe-air-filter-31-10215-ford-edge-taurus-flex-fusion.html)
Ohhh this may be the ticket for me. Looks like it should fit a 13' SHO.
Quote from: 20ecoboost10 on March 06, 2014, 05:55:13 PM
I have had the AFE dry filter in my Flex for about eight months now since I removed the Airaid CAI filter setup
Good fit in the stock box and seems to be well made
http://www.afeintakestore.com/afe-air-filter-31-10215-ford-edge-taurus-flex-fusion.html (http://www.afeintakestore.com/afe-air-filter-31-10215-ford-edge-taurus-flex-fusion.html)
If I didn't already have the K&N, I would try it.
I bought the AFE filter from Summit Racing $50.95 shipped, was the best price I could find for it back then
Excellent! Thanks for sharing that!
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aFe Pro-Dry S Air Filters
StyleAFE Pro-Dry S Air Filter
Vehicle 2010 Ford Taurus
Submodel 3.5L V6
AutoAnything SKU3766357
Part Number31-10215
AA15 coupon code (15% off) $44.16 shipped.
I have an Airaid oiled filter but was never completely sold on them. They really can be a PITA to clean and re-oil. The first time I cleaned a K&N filter it took almost 3 days to dry, so I needed an extra filter to put in the car. Then when I re-oiled it, I used a bunch too much and had oil dripping out of the filter, so when re-oil the filter it is best to use just a touch of oil, wait at least 20 minutes to see if the oil has completely soaked through the gauze, and it not, a touch more and again wait to make sure you haven't overoiled it and clean all the oil off the non-gauze areas of the filter. With the Airaid filter, I have found it stays much cleaner running it with the pre-filter, but again I'm sure the pre-filter adds some restriction. I know when it's time to replace the filter I'm getting the Airaid dry filter.
My first reply on this forum, but I figured I'd throw my 2 cents in.
If your car is stock, I would stick to the factory filter. The oiled cotton/gauze may flow better at very high flows, but factory cars don't need it(and modified cars may not benefit much either). On top of that, they are terribly inefficient compared to a factory paper filter. In my company, if we had a filter with an efficiency as low as the K&N, we'd be looking for problems. If you do choose to put a K&N on, DO NOT clean it often(maybe every 50K miles unless you are in very dusty environments). You should really change/clean the filter based on restriction and not time, but we don't have that luxury of having something tell us that the filter is restricted(at least not factory on most passenger vehicles).
On the 6.0 powerstrokes using a oiled filter was bad news. The oil would coat the MAF and cause strange things to happen. Plus the factory filter was excellent for keeping dust out of the turbo.
In my mind the question, beyond the filtration effectiveness debate, is whether the engine can use anymore airflow and where the airflow restriction might be. I always assumed it was the stock air box, filter and intake.... I don't believe that anymore.
Check out the data here:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=2270.msg32717#msg32717 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=2270.msg32717#msg32717)
Most everybody has been so pro oil and pre oil filter I've never thought to bring this up either. I've got two sho's, a 10 and 11 and been using the stock air boxes to date. I've had so many problems in the past with oil filters in my construction trucks (all Ford) that I stopped using them entirely.
I run Amsoil in everything I have and it has served me very well, including there air filters in two of my mustangs. I run the EaA221 drop in air filter. I've run 30k miles through one sho and 17k through the other. This filter is suppose to out perform paper and gauze filters in all the tests that I've seen so far and I don't see that they are wrong yet.
Just another product that you all may not be aware of. I just got tired of oil up mass airs needing to be replaced unnecessarily. Check it out people, hope it helps your sho too.
Quote from: griggs95 on March 14, 2014, 02:56:58 PM
Most everybody has been so pro oil and pre oil filter I've never thought to bring this up either. I've got two sho's, a 10 and 11 and been using the stock air boxes to date. I've had so many problems in the past with oil filters in my construction trucks (all Ford) that I stopped using them entirely.
I run Amsoil in everything I have and it has served me very well, including there air filters in two of my mustangs. I run the EaA221 drop in air filter. I've run 30k miles through one sho and 17k through the other. This filter is suppose to out perform paper and gauze filters in all the tests that I've seen so far and I don't see that they are wrong yet.
Just another product that you all may not be aware of. I just got tired of oil up mass airs needing to be replaced unnecessarily. Check it out people, hope it helps your sho too.
that filter doesn't seem to be available anymore. has the code changed?
Those interested in the Amsoil products can find them for the SHO (and presumably Flex/XSport) here:
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/VehicleLookupPage.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2010+FORD+TAURUS+T (http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/VehicleLookupPage.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2010+FORD+TAURUS+T)
Air Filter is EAA221, but not listed on the website for sale anymore. Maybe an error of omission?
I called Amsoil today and wanted to order an extra filter in case of discontinuation and to my surprise, that is already the case.
EaA221 is the correct number. I highly recommend trying to track one down if you can. Amsoil claims the filter is only guaranteed for 100k miles of normal driving conditions.
Wix is now the replacement part. The dealer told me that they weren't profitable for the company so that's the reason for the discontinuation :-(
The aFe filter listed below does not fit a 2013 SHO. I went to their website and they don't have any listed that will fit. I measured my stock filter and it is 12" x 6.75". Am I missing something here? I am looking for an oil-less filter. Preferably a filter that is free flowing, cleanable and will fit in the OEM air box. Thanks
Quote from: SHOdded on March 06, 2014, 11:16:39 PM
aFe Pro-Dry S Air Filters
StyleAFE Pro-Dry S Air Filter
Vehicle 2010 Ford Taurus
Submodel 3.5L V6
AutoAnything SKU3766357
Part Number31-10215
AA15 coupon code (15% off) $44.16 shipped.
Call aFe and they don't make a filter for the 13 SHOs. Ordered a K&N filter today.
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Quote from: pejohnson on March 23, 2014, 10:04:46 PM
Call aFe and they don't make a filter for the 13 SHOs. Ordered a K&N filter today.
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gen 4.1 and 4.2 filter housings are the same.
Any one tried AEM ?
http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filter/ford_taurus_sho.aspx (http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filter/ford_taurus_sho.aspx)
Quote from: SwampRat on March 24, 2014, 06:44:41 PM
Any one tried AEM ?
http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filter/ford_taurus_sho.aspx (http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filter/ford_taurus_sho.aspx)
http://www.aemintakes.com/news/news.aspx?ID=4822 (http://www.aemintakes.com/news/news.aspx?ID=4822)
When I spoke to aFe they told me their oiled filters flow and filter much better than their dry ones. Hence why I just went with K&N.
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There have been tests done on other platforms showing that no filter definitely flows more than paper, by almost 200 cfm which shold be obvious. One Camaro test showed that their stock airbox WITH snorkel flows more than the box without the snorkle, and the Green filter flow rate was the closest to not having a filter.
I looked at the stock paper filter and compared it with the panel filter for the Panther platform (Marauder and Crown Vic) and the Panther has a much larger panel filter but those cars don't produce nearly as much power. The SHO shares the same panel filter as a 2007 Edge or the CX9. I never understood that other than perhaps engineering was limited in packaging space and optimized flow through pressure with the airbox and snorkle instead? I recall Big macs post about the dyno without an airbox being within 3 hp. It would be interesting to see the dyno with stock airbox but no filter vs CAI vs stock paper.
I did a lot of reading on the flow tests for various brands. The dry filters all flow barely more than the stock paper filter to the point that we might as well stick with paper (Afe, Amsoil, AEM included). The only filters to flow more than say 10% of stock were AFE oiled, K&N, S&B, and Green filter. But the other caveat is that the less pleats there are, the less dust load capacity there is, so the filters will become restricted faster. Stock paper is about 99 to 100 pleats. K&N is around 40. Green is about 35, but deeper - however other tests showed Green can clog faster Than K&N
The Green outflows K&N but I am not sure about the quality or durability of Green. They ran into supply issues and quality issues a few years back for the Corvettes. The Ganassi EcoBoost prototype and Ford GTLM cars use Green but that is meaningless as they can afford to swap out parts and have engine allocations for the year.
So it seems either stick with quality paper filter, or go with K&N or Green panel filters if more flow is desired. The dry filters may have good efficiency but the shallower and reduced pleats allow them to clog much faster without a significant increase in initial flow - might as well just stick with paper in that case.
As for intake oil contamination, that is a non-issue for EcoBoost since we are speed density and do not have MAF sensors. Also, the oil, gas vapors, and condensation spewing around in the intake tract won't mind some filter oil joining in the fun.
The first time I oiled a cotton gauze filter was the factory racing intake for my Ducati. It used a canister style round filter, but the dirty side was the inside of the canister and the clean side was the outside. The only way to oil it was to oil the pleats from the outside. I accidentally over oiled it to the point it was just dripping out of the airbox. The Ducati's Continental/Siemens ECU used Alpha-N fueling, so there wasn't a MAF sensor to worry about.