About 3 weeks ago I picked up a 2013 MKS EB with just shy of 100K on the clock. This thread will be to track all the work, costs and additions to it as time progresses.
This build is going to be true street sleeper style. No noticeable exterior modifications unless you know what to look for. Only real exterior mods will be removing the EcoBoost badge and adding a roof rack for my mountain bikes (I'm from Colorado, what do you expect).
My goal is to get this into the low 12's within a year. Since I live outside Denver I know this is a big goal for our altitude. Thankfully I have a job where I can create more income as I need it so that should help with the goal. This car is now my DD so all mods will be for long term use and not quick jumps of power.
I'll post here any time work is done on the MKS. Pics will be posted soon.
1st update.
Within a day or two of purchasing the MKS I noticed an annoying clunk from the suspension while driving over fairly normal road cracks. Figured I would have the dealer look at it and take a look at the rest of the car while they're at it. Dropped it off just about a week ago and got a call later that day. Suspension problem was the sway bar links. Simple enough fix for me to do myself. They also said it needed new spark plugs, rear brake pads, a shaft seal and... a water pump, ugh. Well I know what happens when the pumps go out so I told them go ahead and do the pump and seal. I'll take care of the rest.
Got the car back today. All in for $3200. They replaced the water pump, all the timing chain parts, new gaskets due to disassembly, new coolant, new tranny fluid, new oil and the shaft seal. Not an cheap job, but I have good piece of mind now moving forward.
Also during the past week ordered new 534 plugs, front sway links and a new air filter from Rockauto. Also ordered some EBC Yellow pads. Got the fronts off Amazon for a steal at $52. Rears I had to pay full price at $109.
Immediately after getting the car back from the dealer I brought it home to get to work. Sway links were not too bad, just tedious. Front pads and air filter went fine. I forgot to look if the rear calipers were the twist type so had to put the rear back together and got a tool this evening for those. Took it out for a romp to break them in. Much more bite than before. Did realize half way through the drive though that my dumb ass forgot to put the brake reservoir cap back on so have to go find a new one tomorrow. Either way, brakes work great, suspension clunk is gone.
Later this week the plugs will go in, PTU fluid and RDU fluid will get swapped out and some fresh all season tires will go on. My Dragy unit should show up tomorrow as well.
Also ordered an SCT X4 from Brad (AJP) which should show up in a couple days as well as a 3 bar map. Once the car is back to a good baseline in terms of maintenance I'll do some base runs with the Dragy before throwing in the tune.
Great update! Glad to see the maintenance stuff has been handled, and it would appear your well on your way to the fun things next!
Look'n forward to your experiences with the latter. Keep keeping the community updated!
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Plugs nowadays the SP542 seems to be the way to go, but your tuner can best guide you on that.
Great to see weak points addressed.
If your road conditions permit, you can consider H&Rs, coilovers, and mounts to get the suspension where it should be for a hip(p)o ride :D
Quote from: SHOdded on December 24, 2019, 08:12:26 AM
Plugs nowadays the SP542 seems to be the way to go, but your tuner can best guide you on that.
Great to see weak points addressed.
If your road conditions permit, you can consider H&Rs, coilovers, and mounts to get the suspension where it should be for a hip(p)o ride :D
Yeah I'll use whatever plugs he recommends.
I've considered suspension mods, but half mind the suspension it has. Not nearly raked like the SHO and here with the snow having some more space in the wheel wells can be useful. Played with the different suspension setting last night on the drive and can now tell between the modes. I have it set for comfort in drive and sport in sport. Comfort you can still feel the dramatic cracks in the road, but as far as larger humps it floats and bounces a bit as if the struts are worn. Throw it in sport and it sucks itself right back to the road.
Dragy has arrived.
Tuner showed up as well. Now to let the update finish so I can get Brad the basics to get started.
Man you're going to love what comes next!
Plugs have been swapped. Took about 40 minutes. Pic is the old ones.
Opened the SCT and started to run the updates for the device and those failed so I've got some digging later this week to get those figured out so I can actually use it.
What does a Dragy do?
Greg
It's a performance tracker like the vBox. You can monitor 0-30, 0-60, 1/4, 1/2 and other metrics.
I'm guessing more accurate than "seat of the pants" methods! Does it use GPS? Accelerometer? Does it plug into your car computer? Your phone?
Never mind, I went to You-tube.
Looks like a fun tool.
Quote from: SHOdded on December 24, 2019, 08:12:26 AM
Plugs nowadays the SP542
I've looked around and I can't find what the actual heat range is for some of the plugs. People say "one range colder than stock" but what is the stock heat range? I haven't been able to find the actual numerical value for them. And it looks like the SP542 has been replaced by another plug by ford... which I also can't find the actual heat range for, lol.
Also, GRATS on the MKS! Best of luck at the drag strip in the future. Hopefully you have better luck than I have lately.
Got the SCT updated finally. Had to manually download some drivers and update from the laptop. After seeing how many people have issues with the wifi updates I will likely just use the computer for further updates now.
Anyways, got the brake res cap today and did some 0-60 baseline pulls. Dragy is saying 5215 DA, but Dragtimes calc is saying 4138 so I'll go with the actual calculator.
Pull 1 - 5.62
Pull 2 - 5.80
Pull 3 - 5.48
Peaked out at just over 10.5 psi of boost.
Anxious to see how it improves once the tune is in.
It'll be a whole new beast! Dragy works well for performance Data, has been about 5-7 hundredths within my Drag Strip times.
Quote from: 802SHO on December 27, 2019, 05:06:32 AM
It'll be a whole new beast! Dragy works well for performance Data, has been about 5-7 hundredths within my Drag Strip times.
Excited to feel the difference.
One thing I will note about running the 0-60 times right now is that the car shifts at exactly 60 mph at WOT so I do think even without tuning there is another 1-3 tenths that could be gained on those times. Either way though. Still fun to play with so far.
Did the PTU this morning. Sure is tight in that spot. Got just a couple ounces out. Couldn't get anymore so I added the new fluid until it reached the fill hole. Will let that loosen some things up and do a drain again soon. Likely will put in a drain plug in the near future.
You should snag one of these, it makes both the RDU and PTU much easier and get a lot more out.
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC (https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC)
Need a good compressor to go with.
Quote from: 802SHO on December 29, 2019, 09:14:16 AM
You should snag one of these, it makes both the RDU and PTU much easier and get a lot more out.
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC (https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC)
I'll keep this in mind for the next fluid swap. Thankfully my compressor should keep up fine.
New Cooper Zeon G1 all seasons were put on yesterday. TireRack was closing them out so saved some good cash too.
Initial tune from Brad was also put in Saturday evening. Haven't been able to do good logs yet since we got snow, but can already tell a difference. Did find one spot of clean road on the way to the tire shop Sunday morning to do a pull. Shifts significantly cleaner and pulls a lot harder.
Then... as I turned into the tire shop parking lot the Check Brake System light came on. Lost all power to brakes other than full power with a lot of pressure. Had them take a look to make sure nothing was seized and they couldn't find anything. Once they were done I figured I would pop the hood and check the vacuum hoses. Well, the new tune added just enough pressure to pop off the brake booster vacuum line during that pull on the clean section of road. When the water pump was done that line must have not seated back in all the way. Popped it back on and ensured it clipped fully and was good to go.
Hoping to do some logging pulls today if the roads clear enough.
Quote from: Dannymack on December 26, 2019, 04:00:32 PM
Pull 1 - 5.62
Pull 2 - 5.80
Pull 3 - 5.48
Last 0-60 tunes quoted above.
Took some log runs to send to Brad today. Tested out the 0-60 while I was at it. Have a little more data this time from the log.
DA was around 4057 based on dragtime calculator.
Pull 1
Dragy - 5.08
Log - 5.198
Pull 2
Dragy - 4.98
Log - 5.098
Pull 3
Dragy - 5.08
Log - 5.137
Overall have gained about a 0-60 reduction of about .5 seconds with similar conditions. Do have new tires on as well. I'll be curious to see how Brad thinks the logs went.
Are you brake launching or launching normally?
Quote from: SHOdded on December 30, 2019, 04:35:42 PM
Are you brake launching or launching normally?
Brake and launch around 2k
Maybe Dragy was getting dialed in then. I know with other such devices there could be inaccurate data returned due to the timing of when the vehicle is deemed to have started the run.
Quote from: Dannymack on December 30, 2019, 10:41:37 AM
New Cooper Zeon G1 all seasons were put on yesterday. TireRack was closing them out so saved some good cash too.
Initial tune from Brad was also put in Saturday evening. Haven't been able to do good logs yet since we got snow, but can already tell a difference. Did find one spot of clean road on the way to the tire shop Sunday morning to do a pull. Shifts significantly cleaner and pulls a lot harder.
Then... as I turned into the tire shop parking lot the Check Brake System light came on. Lost all power to brakes other than full power with a lot of pressure. Had them take a look to make sure nothing was seized and they couldn't find anything. Once they were done I figured I would pop the hood and check the vacuum hoses. Well, the new tune added just enough pressure to pop off the brake booster vacuum line during that pull on the clean section of road. When the water pump was done that line must have not seated back in all the way. Popped it back on and ensured it clipped fully and was good to go.
Hoping to do some logging pulls today if the roads clear enough.
Clamp that sucker.. it will happen again as it has for a few members. under 3rd gear run that's a fatal failure.
Quote from: SHOdded on December 30, 2019, 04:55:39 PM
Maybe Dragy was getting dialed in then. I know with other such devices there could be inaccurate data returned due to the timing of when the vehicle is deemed to have started the run.
As the runs for logging continue I'll keep comparing the 2 and see what overall results looks like.
Topher - thanks for the note on that. I'll get a clamp on it ASAP.
Quote from: Dannymack on December 30, 2019, 05:55:52 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on December 30, 2019, 04:55:39 PM
Maybe Dragy was getting dialed in then. I know with other such devices there could be inaccurate data returned due to the timing of when the vehicle is deemed to have started the run.
As the runs for logging continue I'll keep comparing the 2 and see what overall results looks like.
Topher - thanks for the note on that. I'll get a clamp on it ASAP.
Yarp, safety 1st! :) good luck have fun!
That's just Revision 1?
Quote from: 802SHO on December 31, 2019, 07:10:19 AM
That's just Revision 1?
Yeah. Just got rev 2 last night and that will go in today. He said everything looked pretty clean. Will add 1 more pound of boost and some minor adjustments.
How much boost was Revision 1? Nice improvement from your first tune and you guys are just getting started.
Quote from: 802SHO on December 31, 2019, 01:06:49 PM
How much boost was Revision 1? Nice improvement from your first tune and you guys are just getting started.
Looks like it goes from around 179-180 kPa (11.3 psi) and tapers down to 172 kPa (10.3 psi). This was during the 3rd gear pull.
In the pulls from 0 it looks like my peaks averaged around 200 kPa (14.3 psi) and then would taper down to around 172 kPa.
Not much different from stock.
Quote from: SHOdded on December 31, 2019, 07:10:17 PM
Not much different from stock.
About 4-5 psi higher than what the car was running pre-tune.
Ah. I take it back then!
Gave it a quick wash today and debadged the trunk. I contemplated just removing the ecoboost, but it's just much better without any. If I had the final trunk version I would have left the "lincoln", but like the uniformity of this.
:alkashi: :alkashi:
Gave myself an hour under the car today to get more familiar and also attempt to determine the suspension thud. All pics are posted below.
Tried getting movement out of the lower control arm bushings, but they were solid. Admittedly they do look pretty neat though. Thoughts?
Ball joints moved fine and didn't have any leaks.
Sway bar looks fine. Took pics of the bushings to see if anyone has thoughts on those as well.
Now for a couple discoveries. In one of the pics you'll see what looks like a female plug coming out of the firewall right above the back of the ptu and just below where the rear bov recirc hits the intake pipe. Is that a plug or something else?
I also found out where all the gear oil from the ptu had gone... hence why not much was extracted. The rear seal is going and it has been leaking out and spreading all over the firewall and tunnel. Add that to an upcoming project list.
Finally I just found this odd. Every 1-5ish minutes there would be an electrical noise coming from the timing cover area around mid engine. Sounds like a solenoid or relay activating or something along those lines. I recorded it to see if it's familiar to anyone. This is with the car completely off and locked.
https://youtu.be/8hw1IkZdM6E
Fuel pump or purge valve is what comes to mind. How is the battery in your MKS holdng up? CCAs, not just Vs.
Took on a little more involved project today. Adding permanent mount roof racks. Now I use the word "permanent" here with some caveats. While the mounts are riveted to the car they are also fairly easy to remove in an hour if I ever want to sell the car. They attach in the roof ditch so the holes don't show with the ditch trim.
I originally ordered the clip style mounts that clip to the door frame, but the one I wanted was out of stock. This caused me to rethink and I decided to get a little more involved.
Here are the parts if anyone ever wants to do something similar.
Yakima 60" Jetstream Bars
Yakima Skyline Towers
Yakima Landing Pad 21
I'll have more pics tomorrow in the light with bike racks installed.
Finished up the rack today and added the bike racks. Wouldn't be surprised if I'm the only MKS in existence with permanent bike racks. Happy with how it all turned out. Nice and clean.
Because I'm going sleeper style with this one I was planning a license plate like "old man", but I think the rack ruined that potential joke. Now I'm considering the following.
1. ABRAHAM
2. HRSPRS
3. LNDYCHT
4. LOGS
5. A boy scout license plate that says "COOKIES"
Current status:
Working on the e30 tune with brad. Since our E85 is closer to 70% the tune is more of a E25ish tune.
Decided while I'm building up my cash for some of the bigger parts I would do a cheaper job that should dramatically change the look of the car. It's a pretty universal opinion that Lincoln did a less than desirable job on the front grill of the 13+ MKS. I pulled mine out today to start figuring out a way to update it while not looking too aftermarket.
Progress with the grille. Decided to paint it for now and see how I like it. If it comes around to it I'll cut it up in a few months and try something new. Figured I would put a little bit of accent to it.
Still deciding if the chrome trim around the lights and grille should be body matched or gloss black like the grille. They're primed and ready for whichever I decide.
To get where you want you will prolly need to run an ethanol blend. Brad knows the E30 tunes very well. On my SHO. The His E30 pulls so much harder all over. Draggy will be a great tool to test this.
I run the OEM plugs per Brad. Just gapped closer. He will walk you through.
Intake, Thermostat etc is not needed unless you are doing All bolt ons per say. Hot Pipes, Downpipes etc.
The tune will really wake up your car. Just be patient and give Brad the Data.
how bad was it taking the grills out , ive wanted to paint mine all black for a bit now and taking them out to do it would be better.
Quote from: Ramairetransam on March 06, 2020, 11:27:02 AM
how bad was it taking the grills out , ive wanted to paint mine all black for a bit now and taking them out to do it would be better.
You have to pull the bumper to do it. That part was actually fairly easy. Getting the grilles out of the bumper itself took longer so that I didn't break any clips. just need patience. It would be a lot easier if I took off the license plate frame since it hinders the grille coming out and made things a little more difficult (It's riveted on...)
Wheels are off for powder coating. Also had the clear coat wrinkle on the final coat so the trim and grille are also getting media blasted so I can start from scratch again. Will be using a HVLP gun this time with paint and clear that are made to work together.
Thankfully my wife's summer wheels from her Acura fit the MKS without mods so I didn't need to have the car down during the powder coating.
While waiting for the wheels and grille pieces to get finished I figured I would try my hand at wrapping the roof. I'm a big fan of black roofs on cars. Well it looks great from 20-30 feet. Overall though I really like it and will have a pro do it soon.
Got the wheels back from powder coating today. So glad to get rid of that big polished rim. Now it's time for some painting of trim and center caps to finish off the aesthetics.
Will be nice to see it all together.
Started working on the headlights today. Not the easiest ones I have ever taken apart, but definitely not the hardest.
Should turn out pretty well.
Cool to be in the belly.
Quote from: Dannymack on March 21, 2020, 12:41:08 AM
Started working on the headlights today. Not the easiest ones I have ever taken apart, but definitely not the hardest.
Should turn out pretty well.
I really like the headlights, at some point I'd like to at least do halo's on the SHO. I've watched quite a few general video's, what temp and how long did you cook yours? How much working time did it give you to get the lense loose?
Quote from: 6500rpm on March 21, 2020, 01:20:41 PM
Quote from: Dannymack on March 21, 2020, 12:41:08 AM
Started working on the headlights today. Not the easiest ones I have ever taken apart, but definitely not the hardest.
Should turn out pretty well.
I really like the headlights, at some point I'd like to at least do halo's on the SHO. I've watched quite a few general video's, what temp and how long did you cook yours? How much working time did it give you to get the lense loose?
First light I marred the casing a bit, but it will be fine.
2nd took me 3 rounds. 225 degree oven
1st - 20 min, did a quick round with a flathead screwdriver all the way around.
2nd - 15 minutes, got the lens about half way off
3rd - 15 minutes, using a flathead and putty knife got the lens the rest of the way off.
Lights are in, grille and lower valance are painted gloss black to match. Much more aggressive than before. Just needs some touch ups, but overall I'm happy with the result.
Yup looks awesome
Looks sweet and those headlights are killer
To continue with the painting.
Next were the badges. Matching those up to the wheels. Wanted to have some subtle red like the headlights so decided to go with this inside the logo.
For a final touch on the front end I really wanted a different lip, but there aren't any for the MKS. So I went with an All-Lip 3.5 inch lip. I did some extra work to make it look as though it was built for the car vs just sticking it on like most people do with these.
Pretty happy with how aggressive this thing looks so far. Especially compared to stock. Just waiting on some wheel adapters/spacers to push the wheels just a little further out.
License plates finally showed up. If you don't get the reference... you should.
Quote from: Dannymack on April 07, 2020, 11:18:44 AM
License plates finally showed up. If you don't get the reference... you should.
James Pumphery strikes again!
Couple recent updates. Added the Dicunzolo mounts. Also started working on my stance. 20mm spacers and rear camber bolts (btw I'm aware not everyone likes spacers). Like how it's coming out.
No rubbing even with it lowered on the new springs ?
Quote from: Macgyver on April 23, 2020, 09:55:58 PM
No rubbing even with it lowered on the new springs ?
I will find out this weekend when all 4 are installed. So far the one I have completed does not look like it will have issues.
Quote from: Dannymack on April 24, 2020, 11:58:40 AM
Quote from: Macgyver on April 23, 2020, 09:55:58 PM
No rubbing even with it lowered on the new springs ?
I will find out this weekend when all 4 are installed. So far the one I have completed does not look like it will have issues.
Remember to have 4 people in the car if possible.
Hey its ok to do that. Just look at the NFL draft draftees house video shots. No COVID where they are thats for sure.
Rear spacers are done and camber bolts are in. I removed as much negative camber as the bolts would allow. Admittedly I measured for these spacers before the springs went in and 20mm would have been perfect flush, but with the bit of extra camber they're just inside. Still looks way better compared to before in person.
So stock studs, did you have to cut them down or not?
Thank you
Quote from: SuperPete on April 25, 2020, 06:10:01 PM
So stock studs, did you have to cut them down or not?
Thank you
Yes, stock studs. I did have to grind them all down. Ended up doing it at a 45 degree angle from the center of the stud to just before the threads start. The wheel pockets would hit just on the outside of the stud. This of course was with the MKS wheels so not sure what would be needed on other wheels sets.
All finished up with the front spacers. 20mm lined up just right IMO. Didn't even need to roll the fender. Now it's officially at the OEM+ stance.
DannyMack has done the impossible, made the front end of an MKS look awesome...
:alkashi:
:notworthy:
He definitely has.
Took the first official runs of the season. DA was around 8700 so the results were less than great, but it was good to get a better feel for the car in controlled conditions. This is on an e30 tune. Didn't have wheel spin that I could tell. Got 4 runs in. Best 1/4 of 13.567. Used the Dragy as well and they were pretty damn similar on times, mph was off by a few. Best Dragy time I ever got earlier this year on back roads was 13.1 at 4000DA so hope later this year I can get back to that.
Glad the track is open!
Quick update.
Been enjoying the car in its current form for a couple months now. Have driven thousands of miles with no issues. Springs are settling into their lowest level now. Still a stiff ride for sure, but I'm mostly used to it. The one consistent thing is the PTU leaking fluid all over the exhaust from the rear seal so for now I have been topping it off until I'm in the mood to replace it or it forces my hand. Put a new spoiler on it earlier this week to complete the rear end look. Also just ordered the XDI-35 today and stoked to put that in ASAP.
Couple projects over the last week. Received the XDI-35 and installed it. Currently running the initial E40 tune and doing some logs. Brad said my IAT2 is getting too high so you can guess what the next project is (no spray). I like doing some fabrication vs. bolt on so front mount it is. Due to the split grill style and good on the MKS the upper front mount style would either not work or would just look hacked out IMO so I'm going for the lower side. I've found a couple paths for piping that may work so started prepping the bumper this evening. Still have some cutting to do. Will have almost 100% exposure of the fins in the opening which should be great. I am also aware that the turbos are at their limit due to altitude so some new ones are much sooner on the horizon once the IC is in. Also have an ethanol monitor showing up this week.
Making some moves there buddy. I like it.
Hell yeah get after it! I just recently opened up my impact bar for some more air, and two sections of pipe were a bit too long, causing unwanted bends in my 90° silicone elbow, and also extra tension in general to the y pipe. I blew a clamp to the y pipe yesterday. So after reducing the pipe length in two sections, it went back together with less tension with plenty of silicone over the pipe connections. It appears to be working even better than before but I'll need more than just a 3rd gear pull to verify it...but 14° below ambient is awesome. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/618ff71254c23929cffb5dc0400a3420.jpg)
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Quote from: Dannymack on July 14, 2020, 12:26:56 AM
Couple projects over the last week. Received the XDI-35 and installed it. Currently running the initial E40 tune and doing some logs. Brad said my IAT2 is getting too high so you can guess what the next project is (no spray). I like doing some fabrication vs. bolt on so front mount it is. Due to the split grill style and good on the MKS the upper front mount style would either not work or would just look hacked out IMO so I'm going for the lower side. I've found a couple paths for piping that may work so started prepping the bumper this evening. Still have some cutting to do. Will have almost 100% exposure of the fins in the opening which should be great. I am also aware that the turbos are at their limit due to altitude so some new ones are much sooner on the horizon once the IC is in. Also have an ethanol monitor showing up this week.
There is a TON of room on under the bumper rebar. You could fit a pretty large cooler under there, otherwise you could try to do one above but that hood might need a speed hole in it.
Quote from: 802SHO on July 14, 2020, 12:16:59 PM
Hell yeah get after it! I just recently opened up my impact bar for some more air, and two sections of pipe were a bit too long, causing unwanted bends in my 90° silicone elbow, and also extra tension in general to the y pipe. I blew a clamp to the y pipe yesterday. So after reducing the pipe length in two sections, it went back together with less tension with plenty of silicone over the pipe connections. It appears to be working even better than before but I'll need more than just a 3rd gear pull to verify it...but 14° below ambient is awesome. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/618ff71254c23929cffb5dc0400a3420.jpg)
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
Yeah some of these sections of piping will be a little tight. I laid under the car for a good 30 minutes to triple check the route I thought would work. For the y on mine I went with a silicone 2 inch to 2.5 inch merge and it has a less steep angle than the metal ones so I'm hoping that helps.
[quote author=GotGrip? link=topic=10275.msg159079#msg159079 date=159482
There is a TON of room on under the bumper rebar. You could fit a pretty large cooler under there, otherwise you could try to do one above but that hood might need a speed hole in it.
[/quote]
Yeah trying to avoid the top side as much as possible. That dip in the front of the hood really makes it hard to do it cleanly. As for intercooler I'm starting with the TR8L and then will gauge if more will be needed once the new turbos are on.
Right on, I went with the TR8C just for the slightly better spacing of air, works really well.
Quote from: GotGrip? on July 16, 2020, 09:08:38 AM
Right on, I went with the TR8C just for the slightly better spacing of air, works really well.
Yeah with what I'm assuming is the adaptive cruise sensor box on the drivers side on the lower end I had to do the tanks with bottom feed instead of center so I could clear it.
Quote from: Dannymack on July 16, 2020, 10:27:28 AM
Quote from: GotGrip? on July 16, 2020, 09:08:38 AM
Right on, I went with the TR8C just for the slightly better spacing of air, works really well.
Yeah with what I'm assuming is the adaptive cruise sensor box on the drivers side on the lower end I had to do the tanks with bottom feed instead of center so I could clear it.
Its going to be so cool man. Can't wait to see it when it's completed.
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Intercooler pipes arrived today and I also started reforming the lower grille panels so that they look like they belong. Once done they should curve nicely right back towards the intercooler making a clean look (if the intercooler mounts how I hope...)
Intercooler is in and leaks seem to have been dealt with. I thought I had tightened everything enough, but was wrong so disassembled, and retightened everything and feels much better now. Need to do some full logged pulls now for Brad to see what things look like and see what sort of cooling it's actually doing.
Now that looks Awesome !!!
Looks great!
What are the dimensions on the intercooler?
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That looks dope AF dude, nice build!
I can hear your license plate.....lol.
Quote from: Dannymack on July 16, 2020, 11:49:06 PM
Intercooler pipes arrived today and I also started reforming the lower grille panels so that they look like they belong. Once done they should curve nicely right back towards the intercooler making a clean look (if the intercooler mounts how I hope...)
Could you share the link to where to buy the silicone y pipe?
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Quote from: Chris_Flex on August 10, 2020, 12:14:51 PM
Quote from: Dannymack on July 16, 2020, 11:49:06 PM
Intercooler pipes arrived today and I also started reforming the lower grille panels so that they look like they belong. Once done they should curve nicely right back towards the intercooler making a clean look (if the intercooler mounts how I hope...)
Could you share the link to where to buy the silicone y pipe?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The intercooler is the Treadstone TR8L. Core dimensions are 7.8x24x3.5. Silicone Y is https://www.allpurposepipes.com/aluminum-intercoolers/intake-pipe-reducer/silicone-y-pipe-reducer-p-8192.html?osCsid=5uqq5tfogeffijtu681v67d9g7
I think silicone intakes has them too.
Been MIA for a while, but still messing around with the MKS. Here's what I have been up to.
1. New front strut Mounts
2. New front lower control arms
3. New PP PTU
4. Swapped plugs to 578's at .028
5. New front right axle since boot was leaking and was out for PTU
6. Starting transmission fluid swap
7. Some aesthetic work on the rear (light tint on reverse and brake and black strip across)
8. Starting a new wheel set. They are from a Maserati Ghibli. Rears are basically bolt on other than hun centric rings. Fronts are the same, but looks wise need to be pushed out a little so that is next. Setup will be staggered since I like that look. They will have some nice sticky rubber to compensate for the 245 fronts. Rears will be 275 on a 10.5 wide rim.
Time for me to do a quick update of where this project sits so far in terms of what it has needed since I purchased it about 18 month ago in early December 2019.
Purchased with around 100k (can't remember exact) for $12,000
What it has needed since then (some of this is my fault for not inspecting better on purchase):
*= paid someone else to do it
- Water pump and timing chains $3100*
- Front sway bar links $50
- Lower front control arms $200
- Front strut mounts $72
- PTU and front right axle - $1900*
- Front left axle - $130
- 4 new rotors $250
- 2 full rounds of brake pads $250
- Winter tires $500
- All season tires (lasted 20k due to spirited driving) $600
- Summer tire and wheel set $1200
- Cabin filter $10
- Spark plugs $35
- 20 quarts of transmission fluid $75
- 5 oil changes $250
- Trunk struts $25
- Other things I likely can't remember
Things I did to make it more fun:
- Tunes and Tuner $500
- AEM Filter $50
- XDI-35 $1500
- FMIC Setup $600
- Ethanol Monitor $200
- Headlight painting $100
- Roof Rack $700
- Other aesthetics $400
Things still to do maintenance wise:
- all 4 struts/shocks $1100
- Turbos $1200-$2500
- Random bushings throughout $400
Basically somewhere around 13k into this car just in maintenance and some upgrades plus the 12k purchase price. Would I recommend this car to anyone else... No I would not. But I still enjoy it and by the time all of this maintenance is done it should do me well for a while.
Sounds like you have that car overhauled pretty good. I didn't see anything about transmission but that may be something to monitor. The 6F55 is pretty stout but the stock converter will eventually crap out. Also saw you got a new PTU in there definitely want to drain and refill that regularly. Do not slack on the PTU maintenance with that added power. I'm at 130k miles and just did the waterpump and timing chain set and car feels really strong easily pushes 15psi on Livernois tune with stock PTU, tranny etc.
Quote from: mguy13sport on May 30, 2021, 12:32:48 PM
Sounds like you have that car overhauled pretty good. I didn't see anything about transmission but that may be something to monitor. The 6F55 is pretty stout but the stock converter will eventually crap out. Also saw you got a new PTU in there definitely want to drain and refill that regularly. Do not slack on the PTU maintenance with that added power. I'm at 130k miles and just did the waterpump and timing chain set and car feels really strong easily pushes 15psi on Livernois tune with stock PTU, tranny etc.
Swapping out the transmission valve body this week due to some odd shifting in 3rd and 5th. Hope that fixes it, but know a tyranny may be in the near future depending.
For the PTU I'll be swapping every 3rd oil change to keep it happy.