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The SHO is a front wheel drive platform that transfers power on demand to the rears.
A true drag pack for your set up should have a wider front tire and narrower rear tire, due to the bias of the car being FWD. I think like a 295 front and a 235 rear. This will allow a large contact patch for the front, and reduce rolling resistance for the rear because it dont see the rear having traction issue. The RDU only transfers so much power (150 hp keeps coming to my head). You need the front to hook, and not really worry about the rears.
Absolutely agree, currently though I'm looking at only replacing the fronts so gotta work with what I have available to me.
Quote from: Jordan on June 05, 2019, 03:50:57 PM
Absolutely agree, currently though I'm looking at only replacing the fronts so gotta work with what I have available to me.
With the weight of the car, I think you want a 20 inch rim and a good drag radial up front. I think that will allow the car to get up on the radial quicker and will net better traction. I think a bigger sidewall could disturb the chassis and give you the possibility of more wheel hop.
Do you still have your old rims?
Quote from: SM105K on June 05, 2019, 03:59:01 PM
Quote from: Jordan on June 05, 2019, 03:50:57 PM
Absolutely agree, currently though I'm looking at only replacing the fronts so gotta work with what I have available to me.
With the weight of the car, I think you want a 20 inch rim and a good drag radial up front. I think that will allow the car to get up on the radial quicker and will net better traction. I think a bigger sidewall could disturb the chassis and give you the possibility of more wheel hop.
Do you still have your old rims?
I don't but my old wheels were also 19" and weighed in at like 32lbs. Just looking to buy a couple extra wheels at ~$200 a piece on those. Might match my current wheels as they are fairly light and easily obtainable
275/40r20 radials are extremely easy to find and have a good selection. Keeping that sidewall decently small while matching the rears and air up the rears to simulate less traction could be there best set up sounding like
Quote from: Jordan on June 05, 2019, 04:03:34 PM
Quote from: SM105K on June 05, 2019, 03:59:01 PM
Quote from: Jordan on June 05, 2019, 03:50:57 PM
Absolutely agree, currently though I'm looking at only replacing the fronts so gotta work with what I have available to me.
With the weight of the car, I think you want a 20 inch rim and a good drag radial up front. I think that will allow the car to get up on the radial quicker and will net better traction. I think a bigger sidewall could disturb the chassis and give you the possibility of more wheel hop.
Do you still have your old rims?
I don't but my old wheels were also 19" and weighed in at like 32lbs. Just looking to buy a couple extra wheels at ~$200 a piece on those. Might match my current wheels as they are fairly light and easily obtainable
Just stuff a bigger drag radial on a pair of your current wheels now and see what happens. You will only be out mounting and balancing and a set of drag radials.
If it works better, then buy your drag pack with a matching set of rims like I said in my first post.
1" hubcentric wheel spacer upfront. There's your wider stance. A lot less money. I'm putting them all the way around. Will look dope and should net me a better 60ft. I read some info about wider helping with traction in straight line acceleration.
Quote from: 802SHO on June 05, 2019, 05:13:44 PM
1" hubcentric wheel spacer upfront. There's your wider stance. A lot less money. I'm putting them all the way around. Will look dope and should net me a better 60ft. I read some info about wider helping with traction in straight line acceleration.
I feel like all 4 corners would be overkill as we don't really have rear traction issues.
I have a set of Nitto 275/40/ 555R on 20x10 wheels laying around that I had purchased for my SHO. Just the two for the front, planned on getting 2 more for the back with regular street tires but never got around to it. Sold the SHO so not really any use to me now.
Quote from: Blackhawk on June 05, 2019, 06:11:57 PM
I have a set of Nitto 275/40/ 555R on 20x10 wheels laying around that I had purchased for my SHO. Just the two for the front, planned on getting 2 more for the back with regular street tires but never got around to it. Sold the SHO so not really any use to me now.
I see you are in Chicago. I am over in Missouri, but have connections in chicago/make my own way up there sometimes. You looking to sell those? Might be interested if you are. DM me if you want to get a deal working I'd need some specs on them.
Quote from: Jordan on June 05, 2019, 05:39:55 PM
Quote from: 802SHO on June 05, 2019, 05:13:44 PM
1" hubcentric wheel spacer upfront. There's your wider stance. A lot less money. I'm putting them all the way around. Will look dope and should net me a better 60ft. I read some info about wider helping with traction in straight line acceleration.
I feel like all 4 corners would be overkill as we don't really have rear traction issues.
All 4 corners for looks and don't need to take them off. They're on my car in my profile photo. I took them off bc the rear was rubbing. I sent them back but I recently bought them again bc I loved the look and I'm just going to modify the rear so I don't rub anymore. Its merely a bonus if it helps with traction.
Quote from: 802SHO on June 05, 2019, 08:03:15 PM
Quote from: Jordan on June 05, 2019, 05:39:55 PM
Quote from: 802SHO on June 05, 2019, 05:13:44 PM
1" hubcentric wheel spacer upfront. There's your wider stance. A lot less money. I'm putting them all the way around. Will look dope and should net me a better 60ft. I read some info about wider helping with traction in straight line acceleration.
I feel like all 4 corners would be overkill as we don't really have rear traction issues.
All 4 corners for looks and don't need to take them off. They're on my car in my profile photo. I took them off bc the rear was rubbing. I sent them back but I recently bought them again bc I loved the look and I'm just going to modify the rear so I don't rub anymore. Its merely a bonus if it helps with traction.
Ah, I was looking to match my current wheel with two extra and just swap as necessary. Would look clean still / not mismatchy. Looking like that may be the easiest way of going about things. I don't mind swapping. I bring a jack and impact to the drag strip and have them at my house if I need to go do mexico shenanigans.
You got a 1.73 60 60ft in the ship already...has anyone ever got a 1.6?
Quote from: 802SHO on June 05, 2019, 09:15:02 PM
You got a 1.73 60 60ft in the ship already...has anyone ever got a 1.6?
on the drag times looks like proctor got a 1.66, but don't know how accurate that is due to me never seeing him actually claim that time. I've had a 1.72 also once before but the 1.72 and 1.73 both are horrendous wheel hop situations that result in an incomplete pass.
I agree theres room for improvement. Getting into the 1.6 range should be doable since we're only talking .02 or faster. You got an awesome 60 ft still...my best so far is 1.74.
Quote from: 802SHO on June 05, 2019, 10:00:16 PM
I agree theres room for improvement. Getting into the 1.6 range should be doable since we're only talking .02 or faster. You got an awesome 60 ft still...my best so far is 1.74.
That's absolutely one of my goals for 2019.
11.7 quarter mile CHECK
120MPH Trap speed ????
1.6X sixty foot ????
hopefully a drag pack will help provide those other two goals.
I vote to remove the rear driveshaft and RDU to cut more weight. Toss some drag radial or slicks on the front, do a burnout and let'r rip!
Quote from: limited02 on June 05, 2019, 11:34:51 PM
I vote to remove the rear driveshaft and RDU to cut more weight. Toss some drag radial or slicks on the front, do a burnout and let'r rip!
Is that doable? I think there's a disadvantage to some degree of our front wheel drive bias AWD deciding to be AWD as we begin to launch. All the time AWD would be better. But get rid of the the rear driveshaft and RDU all together....interesting. I wish we had a forum project car. Something perhaps we can vote what to mod next, make small donations in the build. That would be cool and maybe run it up against other forum "Cars". Then we could think of stuff like this and test it out on the "Forum Car" to see if it helps or not.
Quote
Is that doable? I think there's a disadvantage to some degree of our front wheel drive bias AWD deciding to be AWD as we begin to launch. All the time AWD would be better. But get rid of the the rear driveshaft and RDU all together....interesting. I wish we had a forum project car. Something perhaps we can vote what to mod next, make small donations in the build. That would be cool and maybe run it up against other forum "Cars". Then we could think of stuff like this and test it out on the "Forum Car" to see if it helps or not.
All I remember is someone from Saudi Arabia or somewhere like that posting on either here, or the shoforum that they did pretty much that. Had a couple videos running against legit cars (R35 GTR for example) and pulling away. He had every bolt-on (turbo's, dp's, meth, etc). However, I can't for the life of me find which forum he posted on and it's probably been 2 years or so. I think the easiest way to test is to remove the driveshaft and see what happens.
I know you can turn the bias to front wheels only via forscan. Watched a video of someone do a awd launch then did a fwd only one on Facebook. So the possibility is there but I believe that would be more negative than positive in the end. However would be neat if we could launch awd then switch to fwd only say in third gear
The dud from Saudi is on facebook, he just does roll racing I think though.
There is a fuse you can pull to disable the RDU, I was thinking of throwing a switch inline on that fuse so I could turn it off to do a quick burnout and then turn it back on to launch.
Quote from: limited02 on June 06, 2019, 08:14:07 AM
Quote
Is that doable? I think there's a disadvantage to some degree of our front wheel drive bias AWD deciding to be AWD as we begin to launch. All the time AWD would be better. But get rid of the the rear driveshaft and RDU all together....interesting. I wish we had a forum project car. Something perhaps we can vote what to mod next, make small donations in the build. That would be cool and maybe run it up against other forum "Cars". Then we could think of stuff like this and test it out on the "Forum Car" to see if it helps or not.
All I remember is someone from Saudi Arabia or somewhere like that posting on either here, or the shoforum that they did pretty much that. Had a couple videos running against legit cars (R35 GTR for example) and pulling away. He had every bolt-on (turbo's, dp's, meth, etc). However, I can't for the life of me find which forum he posted on and it's probably been 2 years or so. I think the easiest way to test is to remove the driveshaft and see what happens.
I thought I'd come back to this and say I've made a decision. 275/40r20 nitto nt555r radial tires. Going to match my current set and it'll be a square set up with my all seasons in the rear. I feel like this is the best compromise as it'll have more than enough traction to do what I need and also last about 10k miles. I'll let you know when I have the opportunity to get them installed and some testing!
Quote from: Jordan on June 07, 2019, 11:26:57 AM
I thought I'd come back to this and say I've made a decision. 275/40r20 nitto nt555r radial tires. Going to match my current set and it'll be a square set up with my all seasons in the rear. I feel like this is the best compromise as it'll have more than enough traction to do what I need and also last about 10k miles. I'll let you know when I have the opportunity to get them installed and some testing!
Why the NT555r? Are you looking for maximum mileage? I would consider the Mickey Thompson ET Street Pro Radial in the same size. They are within 50 dollars a tire of each other, and I believe they are a far superior tire for what you are looking for.
I agree with sm105 the Mickey Thompson is a much better tire.
The difference is I need more traction not maximum traction. The MT tires are great but I believe overkill for what I am trying to achieve. Spent $275 a tire so a savings of $150-175 over the MT. I'm going for overall effectiveness and cost. These will last longer and get the job done just as well. That's my reasoning in choosing the nt555r
Need to also mention I'm not spending only my money here so I have to account for that as well.
Also these will see plenty of Mexican roads... Lol...
Quote from: Jordan on June 07, 2019, 02:34:39 PM
The difference is I need more traction not maximum traction. The MT tires are great but I believe overkill for what I am trying to achieve. Spent $275 a tire so a savings of $150-175 over the MT. I'm going for overall effectiveness and cost. These will last longer and get the job done just as well. That's my reasoning in choosing the nt555r
I figured that. I was seeing the Nitto's for 4325 ish and the MT for 4365 ish, so yeah.
Jordan be careful of wheel hop on your first few launches. Wheel hop on a drag radial is much worse then on a street radial.
Set up will definitely be tested fairly softly to see what they like and how I can get the best launch going. Having a dragy on the way after using my neighbors as it's a huge advantage on seeing what works and how you can improve!
I've never forget my buddy throwing 4 m/t radials on his 2g eclipse. I said Kyle you feel wheel hop push the clutch in and call it a day. Car was a high 10 second car. Friggin kid launches the thing I see all 4 wheels hoping. As I'm in the water box in my car behind him. Then I just see gears axles and kinds of s*** flying out of the rear end. Best part about it I left my cooling fans on in my car in the water box while they cleaned the track. Killed the battery. I will never let him live it down either lol