Ecoboost Performance Forum

In case you hadn't seen my other thread- my rear turbo is toast. I'm having a hell of a time getting that one out. Any tips from those that have pulled that one out?

Basically where I'm at now is the oil feed, coolant lines and 1 manifold bolt need to come out.
Does the feed line need to be disconnected at the block? I can't seem to get the torx bit in the screw from that angle.

Is it easier to remove the engine lift bracket for more space? 

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180508/ac17a89ecf1cae3dbd1a090292b27244.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180508/961c39afb669ccbc9037f856341bf5d7.jpg)

Thanks in advance for any tips


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Sure. Where are you at in the process.

- remove the cac tubes

-Drain the coolant. Or follow the coolant tubes to the right side of the engine, and pinch them off at the rubber tubes so they don't spill all your coolant when you remove the lines from the rear turbo. Or you can pull these rubber tubes from the t-stat housing and cap the t-stat nipples.

-Remove the rear engine hook/loop (above the rear maifold heat shield)

-Both heat shields need to be removed.

-The oil line needs to be removed at the connector @ the cylinder head. You'll need a 1/2  line disconnect tool. There is also a safety clip that will need to be removed first.

-Remove the bolts(2) that secure the turbo exhaust outlet flange to the block. Then remove the support bracket from the block.

-Remove the oil drain tube from the turbo and out of the engine. I recommend you purchase the mahle gasket kit. Comes with new orings, new gaskets and seals for the reinstall. Plug or tap off the engine block hole after you remove the turbo oil drain tube.

-youll also have to drop the rear half of the subframe to get the turbo out past the ptu/axle area.

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Here are some screen shots from Ford's technicial database.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/675e4eaee4b4baf3cb107741ef716daf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/8e376e6e450a461d572fba413ee3072d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/d20b491939b671230c34668c05a18dd7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/ce6644011d5a591561459a3fc21290b0.jpg)

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Cont.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/516d92bd4a40dea59671eb59102f1d78.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/d3b029d287525c12c205af796a33b5d7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/3dd60eccf944694f8590a97be989b0dc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/aba3ac6c12e1aa922fe89d8a4c24033d.jpg)

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Cont.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/8ccf5d79b178862ece6d360b25104258.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/8ca91416c2c614eaa8aedeccb4af214c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/d67831b602ef99b9f2e84ece70090c8d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/c067c7b90ca48bd61e718e2ea9c4f0af.jpg)

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Thank you so much!


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Quote from: 2010Limited on May 08, 2018, 08:48:34 PM
Thank you so much!


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Here are the parts that I used for gaskets.(front and rear turbo). Don't remember which is which. But Rock Auto carries these parts. But eBay had them for a few bucks cheaper + free shipping. I will post the reassembly procedure as well. Also get yourself some copper or nickel based antisieze for all of your nuts and bolts that contact the exhaust or anything hot or that are rusty. Including the heat shield bolts.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/2b7c82828d41ce73671110f4c50ed73b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/9e44b8ffd59109e82887c2fdd37bc2c4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/da46d08676ec831f5050b17ab7586b0a.jpg)

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Never-Seez comes highly recommended.

Is there any way I can get access to that database?

You might find this helpful:

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6735.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6735.0.html)

Quote from: hawkeye93 on May 09, 2018, 09:05:34 AM
You might find this helpful:

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6735.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6735.0.html)

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This could have been the culprit


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[/quote]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/84736987409c2cf36972fa2b30e05715.jpg)


Also:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/14151b3d807c8c1aece620c3ea0f8428.jpg)


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Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:29:30 PM
This could have been the culprit


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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/84736987409c2cf36972fa2b30e05715.jpg)


Also:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/14151b3d807c8c1aece620c3ea0f8428.jpg)


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[/quote]Bad Banjo bolt! Best of luck.  Z

The bolt? How about that filter


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Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:58:39 PM
The bolt? How about that filter


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Wow!! I guess that plugged,restrictive Filter element is an understatement.  Z

Quote from: ZSHO on May 10, 2018, 02:07:05 PM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:58:39 PM
The bolt? How about that filter


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Wow! I guess plugged,restrictive is an understatement.  Z

Just slightly plugged. You mentioned the bolt- what would make that bad?


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Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 02:07:41 PM

Quote from: ZSHO on May 10, 2018, 02:07:05 PM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:58:39 PM
The bolt? How about that filter


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Wow! I guess plugged,restrictive is an understatement.  Z

Just slightly plugged. You mentioned the bolt- what would make that bad?


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The Banjo bolt,copper washer starts leaking with age and corrosion for starter's.  Z

Quote from: ZSHO on May 10, 2018, 02:14:07 PM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 02:07:41 PM

Quote from: ZSHO on May 10, 2018, 02:07:05 PM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:58:39 PM
The bolt? How about that filter


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Wow! I guess plugged,restrictive is an understatement.  Z

Just slightly plugged. You mentioned the bolt- what would make that bad?


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The Banjo bolt starts leaking with age and corrosion for starter's.  Z

Good info - I don't know if that was a problem here. No leaks on top...just internally


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That will buff right out.  Use your good spit and get to it.  LOL

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:29:30 PM
This could have been the culprit


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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/84736987409c2cf36972fa2b30e05715.jpg)


Also:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/14151b3d807c8c1aece620c3ea0f8428.jpg)


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[/quote]That filter screen tho. That was definitely the reason that turbo died. I did mine a month ago just upgrading a bit. My screen had literally 10 specs/120k.

That turbo bares a pretty strong resemblance to the hand gesture depicted. Hmmm


These are mine. Maybe consider some upgrades while it's out.lol(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/41f76a815f6f2ebfda601b56ea99d1b7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/b33446af0f40bb57909fc17d3d23a8c9.jpg)

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Quick reminder to please wear gloves when doing this kind of work.  No need to expose yourself to these health hazards.  New fluids are generally pretty safe, used not so much.

BTW, great info in this thread, will help a lot of folks in the coming years. :thumb: :thumb:

Quote from: mrhighcaliber on May 11, 2018, 03:48:24 AM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 10, 2018, 01:29:30 PM
This could have been the culprit


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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/84736987409c2cf36972fa2b30e05715.jpg)


Also:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/14151b3d807c8c1aece620c3ea0f8428.jpg)


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That filter screen tho. That was definitely the reason that turbo died. I did mine a month ago just upgrading a bit. My screen had literally 10 specs/120k.

That turbo bares a pretty strong resemblance to the hand gesture depicted. Hmmm


These are mine. Maybe consider some upgrades while it's out.lol(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/41f76a815f6f2ebfda601b56ea99d1b7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180511/b33446af0f40bb57909fc17d3d23a8c9.jpg)

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[/quote]

Considering the tub has 150k on it I don't want to spend a ton on turbos and tunes to have the trans take a dump shortly. I love this truck but not enough to spend a ton on it. I just want it operational again


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Quote from: SHOdded on May 11, 2018, 06:21:23 AM
Quick reminder to please wear gloves when doing this kind of work.  No need to expose yourself to these health hazards.  New fluids are generally pretty safe, used not so much.

BTW, great info in this thread, will help a lot of folks in the coming years. :thumb: :thumb:

I hate working with gloves on. But agreed. Thanks



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Quote from: mrhighcaliber on May 08, 2018, 09:44:47 PM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 08, 2018, 08:48:34 PM
Thank you so much!


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Here are the parts that I used for gaskets.(front and rear turbo). Don't remember which is which. But Rock Auto carries these parts. But eBay had them for a few bucks cheaper + free shipping. I will post the reassembly procedure as well. Also get yourself some copper or nickel based antisieze for all of your nuts and bolts that contact the exhaust or anything hot or that are rusty. Including the heat shield bolts.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/2b7c82828d41ce73671110f4c50ed73b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/9e44b8ffd59109e82887c2fdd37bc2c4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180509/da46d08676ec831f5050b17ab7586b0a.jpg)

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I would need the GS3374 gasket set for the rear turbo correct?
I assuming it's the right turbo

I thought the 744 would be for the RH Turbo! Correct me if I'm wrong.  Z

Lefthand = front, Righthand = rear w/ reference to the turbos, correct?  So would need the righthand/rear gasket?

Quote from: SHOdded on May 22, 2018, 07:47:40 AM
Lefthand = front, Righthand = rear w/ reference to the turbos, correct?  So would need the righthand/rear gasket?

That's what I'm thinking. It makes sense that the front of the engine is the passenger side well so the rear turbo would be the right. You always reference parts as your sitting in the vehicle. LH fender is the drivers side etc.


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Yeah, driver's seat view as of a longitudinally oriented engine with the belt drive/pulleys towards the radiator.

X2-  RH = REAR TURBO!
I think SHOdded summed it up quite well!  Z   :)  So you will need the 744 which is for the RH TURBO as mentioned ^^^  Best of luck.  Z

That's what I ordered. I also got a new oil tube and bolt. I had the filter from before so that will be all new back there.


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I was pleasantly surprised the new turbo went up there much easier than the old one came out. The pisser is I'm waiting on gaskets and the oil tube.
Always a waiting game


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Does anyone know the part # for the coolant tube banjo bolts?


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Quote from: 2010Limited on May 22, 2018, 06:43:08 PM
Does anyone know the part # for the coolant tube banjo bolts?


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Here's the pn#'s from the manual(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180523/ed09278a9274b1b50432a398641e4d61.jpg)

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Quote from: mrhighcaliber on May 22, 2018, 08:09:20 PM

Quote from: 2010Limited on May 22, 2018, 06:43:08 PM
Does anyone know the part # for the coolant tube banjo bolts?


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Here's the pn#'s from the manual(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180523/ed09278a9274b1b50432a398641e4d61.jpg)

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Much thanks!


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Waiting on 1 gasket then I can wrap this up. So I decided to make this:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/5fb6bcca4f2632d1908f6433aec927c3.jpg)


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Pretty cool!

Does anyone have the torque specs for the oil and tube bolts?
I see the coolant bolts are 30 ft lbs.
just need the oil bolt. It's almost back together!


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I think its 10 NM - (89 lb-in) .
Listen for an audible click when installing the oil supply tube to the Quick connect fitting!  Z

Z is right on the money

Install a new gasket and install the RH turbocharger oil return tube and the 2 bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Quote from: ZSHO on May 29, 2018, 09:17:00 AM
I think its 10 NM - (89 lb-in) .
Listen for an audible click when installing the oil supply tube to the Quick connect fitting!  Z

Thanks guys! Seriously this is the most helpful forum I've been on.


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Let's get this project wrapped up and the SHO back on the road :D

Quote from: SHOdded on May 29, 2018, 09:50:25 AM
Let's get this project wrapped up and the SHO back on the road :D

It's a flex but YES!


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So the coolant bolts are 30ft-lb and the oil equates to 7.4ft-lb ?
89in-ft = 7.4ft-lb. is that right?


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correct

Well it's back in! I'm up to putting the heat shields and brackets back on.

Does anyone have a pic of the heat shields installed? I see one in the manual pic but I have 2 and don't recall which orientation that were in.

Also are those brackets necessary? It seems the manifold would hold the turbo fine. I had a big honkin turbo on my Sentra and it was just on the manifold.


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All back together. I even put the useless brackets on. I'm going to Change the oil and air filter tomorrow and hope there's no leaks.


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Fire in the hole!

No smoke!!!!!


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Cool Beans! enjoy.  Z  :thumb: :thumb:

Thanks for the great information!  Is there anything special in the reassembly to be aware of?  I have the front turbo reinstalled, waiting for a part to do the rear, and can see it's going to be a Mutha!