Just finished installing catted PPE downpipes on my car. I didn't plan on creating a how to guide, so I did not take any pictures or really make any effort to record the process. Afterward though I got to thinking that there's not a how to floating around that I'm aware of for this task.
So, this is a poor excuse for a how to guide, but maybe it will help someone at least decide if they want to tackle the job and help them know if they have the tools needed. I don't think there's a specific order that things need to be done and I don't think pictures would aid much as everything is fairly visible once you dig in.
I did the job in my garage with the car on jack stands using hand tools. This was the first time even seeing the underside of my car, so I just dug in and went to work. I'm sure you could do the job in any order with multiple different tool options, but here's what I used and the steps that I took...
Minimum Required Tools:
Jack and 2 stands
½" drive socket wrench
½" drive breaker bar – unless you are stronger than I am and can just use the wrench
½" universal – make sure you have a good one
½' extensions – need an assortment of lengths
½" 15mm socket
15mm wrench
17mm socket and wrench if installing PPE downpipes (others may come with different bolts/nuts for the rear exhaust connection)
7/8" open end wrench or O2 sensor socket/tool
Steps I took to replace the factory down pipes with aftermarket pipes (most of the steps can be done in any order):
1. Disconnect battery
2. Loosen lug nuts on front passenger wheel
3. Jack up front of car and put on stands. The higher the better and be safe!
4. Remove front passenger wheel
5. Crawl under car and remove the access panel.
6. Use PB Blaster to spray EVERY bolt related to the job. This includes all 6 turbo stud/nuts, 4 O2 sensors, 4 nuts that bolt down pipes to the exhaust by the third catalytic converter. Do not spray or remove the nuts on the intermediate pipes. Those can be left alone and removed with the down pipes.
7. I paused overnight at this point to let the PB blaster soak in.
8. Unplug front primary O2 sensor, disconnect from bracket, and remove from wire hold tab. Access from top.
9. Unplug rear primary O2 sensor and disconnect from bracket. This one is hard to access. I got to it from the top. It is on the passenger side rear of the engine compartment and is fairly deep.
10. Use the 7/8" open end wrench to remove the front primary O2 sensor. I could not find my O2 sensor socket, but it would not have been any better. The wrench worked fine and was fast. This is the only O2 sensor that requires removal if you have a non-PP car. I suspect that a PP SHO would need the primary rear O2 sensor removed to clear the cooling system.
11. Unplug the two secondary O2 sensors.
12. Use the 15mm socket and ½" drive tools to remove the nuts that hold the downpipe to the rear turbo. They are accessed through the passenger side fender well. Universal is mandatory. I also needed a breaker bar as I didn't have access to a gorilla.
13. Use the 15mm socket/drive and a wrench to remove the nuts that hold the rear downpipe to the exhaust by the third catalytic converter.
14. Wiggle, jiggle, twist, turn, and tug the factory downpipe until it comes out. It WILL come out complete with the O2 sensors in place (on a non-PP car) and with the intermediate pipe attached. Just be patient and keep looking at the O2 sensor through the wheel well and keep twisting.
15. Use the 15mm socket and ½" drive tools to remove the nuts that hold the downpipe to the front turbo. They are accessed from under the front of the car by the oil filter. Universal is, once again, required. You can gain better access to one of the nuts by removing the oil filter. It was not time for my oil change, so I worked around the filter, but did dent it in the process. Probably best to time the oil change if possible.
16. Use the 15mm socket and 15mm wrench to remove the nuts that hold the front downpipe to the exhaust by the third catalytic converter.
17. Remove front downpipe from vehicle.
18. Remove remaining 3 O2 sensors from the two downpipes that are now removed from vehicle.
19. Install 3 O2 sensors into replacement downpipes in the same locations. Keep the Primary front O2 sensor to the side for installation later.
20. Put new or used gaskets on the two turbos. I chose to replace these gaskets, but my factory ones looked just fine. I could have reused them.
21. Twist, thread, push, and pull the rear new downpipe into position and line up the flange with the studs on the turbo. Re-install the nuts with 15mm socket and tools, but leave barely loose.
22. Bolt the new rear downpipe to the exhaust using supplied hardware and a new or used gasket, but leave slightly loose. My downpipes came with 17mm bolts and nut.
23. Install front downpipe (minus the primary O2 sensor) by lining up the flange with the 3 studs on the turbo. Install the nuts, but leave slightly loose.
24. Bolt the new front downpipe to the exhaust using the supplied hardware and a new or used gasket, but leave slightly loose.
25. Eyeball the two downpipes and wiggle/move them until they are even in the rear.
26. Tighten the front and rear downpipes to the turbos. I'm sure there is a proper torque spec. I went with as tight as I could get them using my ½" drive socket wrench.
27. Use the 7/8" open end wrench to install the front primary O2 sensor.
28. Tighten the exhaust hardware that connects the downpipes to the exhaust by the third catalytic converter.
29. Plug all 4 O2 sensors back into their connectors, remount them to the holders, and make sure the factory wiring locations are retained.
30. Jack the car up, remove the stands, and safely lower the car.
31. Reconnect battery.
32. Start car and give it time to relearn idle and to burn off the PB Blaster residue. I had very little smoke.
33. Take the family to a late lunch and show them how the car comes into boost sooner and runs harder
Please feel free to chime in with ANY suggestions for improvement. I am NOT a mechanic and do not have ANY problem with anyone that would like to correct any of my mistakes. The only picture that I can think of that would be of much value would be the rear primary O2 sensor connector location. Glad I had on Mechanix gloves for that one cause you just have to dive in fairly blind.
Special thanks to my wife that provided needed moral support and did a fair amount of wrench turning. Plus she helped me off of the garage floor multiple times!
Great writeup sholxgt just wish we had some pic's to support your How to Articles but in this case we might be willing to make an exception,lol primarily due to your contribution to this fine forum. Z :thumb:
Thank you, sholxgt, for taking the time and making the effort. Much appreciated!
Y'all are going to make me bust out the camera, aren't you? I'll see what I can do to make this more of an official guide. With pictures of course.
The hardest thing about this job is the need to be creative with extensions and a universal joint. Only about 2 of the 6 turbo flange nuts are accessible without a universal.
It becomes clear when working on this car that this particular chassis was not built from from the beginning to hold this particular engine/driveline.
Interesting observations! Then it would be true to SHO tradition since the YamaHammer of the Gen I SHO was literally unplanned for a Taurus housing.
How would you rate our effort so far on needling you for pics :D
Quote from: SHOdded on July 24, 2016, 12:15:34 AM
Interesting observations! Then it would be true to SHO tradition since the YamaHammer of the Gen I SHO was literally unplanned for a Taurus housing.
How would you rate our effort so far on needling you for pics :D
Very much the same! Remember changing rear spark plugs on the Gen 1 and 2? Choice A...be creative with universal and extensions or choice B...remove upper intake manifold. Back then I had more time and less tools, so I went with choice B each time. To be fair, I still opt for removal of any/all hindrance items. I don't mind taking the time to be comfortable and take it easy. Unfortunately for this job, I didn't see good options to make the job easier. It just requires a universal and patience best I can tell.
Asking a fat, middle aged, out of shape man to crawl back under his car to take pictures is just cruel! So, sure, be glad to. Just give me some time and I'll add to the write up. In the meantime, if anyone else dives in, please take some pics. LOL
That's why you need a lift in your garage. That way you can give us aerial views of the underside of your SHO :D Yeah, the rear bank spark plugs were a challenge!
What were ya doing while your assistant was wrenching!!!!. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on July 24, 2016, 06:53:31 AM
What were ya doing while your assistant was wrenching!!!!. Z
LOL! And if it's any comfort, sholxgt, being middle-aged and fat is ok as long as you are not balding ;) Well OK, balding is fine too!
No gaskets to replace?
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Quote from: J-Will on July 24, 2016, 08:38:09 AM
No gaskets to replace?
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The factory gaskets are layered metal. I chose to replace the front gaskets, but it is not necessary. The originals still looked pretty much the same as the new ones.
If you choose to replace the gaskets, here are the part numbers courtesy of ZHO...
Front - AA5Z6L612A
Rear - 7T4Z9450AA
Quote from: ZSHO on July 24, 2016, 06:53:31 AM
What were ya doing while your assistant was wrenching!!!!. Z
What a silly question! I was sitting in a lounge chair, sipping on a frozen cocktail, with my feet in a kiddie pool of course. What else would I be doing on a hot summer day?
In all seriousness, this is not a job that requires a second set of hands, but it definitely makes it more enjoyable and quicker.
Quote from: sholxgt on July 24, 2016, 09:48:23 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 24, 2016, 06:53:31 AM
What were ya doing while your assistant was wrenching!!!!. Z
What a silly question! I was sitting in a lounge chair, sipping on a frozen cocktail, with my feet in a kiddie pool of course. What else would I be doing on a hot summer day?
In all seriousness, this is not a job that requires a second set of hands, but it definitely makes it more enjoyable and quicker.
I was simply busting your balls and maybe the 2nd person could of taken some pic's for ya( pure and simple)and that was all..Z
All in good humor, Z!
I'm always the one to take a joke to the next step :) I love a good ribbing! Thankfully my wife does too!
On our second date we stopped by my friends house to say hi. He was laying under his 7 second "street car" and the first words out of his mouth were "get me a beer b!tch." Luckily she took no offense. I think he was talking to me anyway. LOL
As requested, I will try to get some pictures of my lounge chair, frozen cocktail, and kiddie pool :)
Moderators, feel free to remove any extra discussions in this thread to clean it up. Just couldn't help myself.
I'm used to the softer partial metal partial organic gaskets that need to be replaced after every use... You think reusing the layered metal ones are not asking for a exhaust leak later on? Did they look that good?
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Quote from: StealBlueSho on July 27, 2016, 08:42:30 AM
I'm used to the softer partial metal partial organic gaskets that need to be replaced after every use... You think reusing the layered metal ones are not asking for a exhaust leak later on? Did they look that good?
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I could not see a visual difference between my original/used gaskets and the new ones I purchased. For peace of mind, I replaced the top ones figuring that those would be the hardest to change later.
I kept the originals because I would not hesitate to reuse them if needed. About the only reason I could see to purchase gaskets would be to have them as back up in case you mangle the originals.
How long should this install take for a shop to do?
Quote from: 10bird on March 31, 2017, 10:51:50 AM
How long should this install take for a shop to do?
3 hours MAXIMUM, especially since they should be using a lift.
My initial install took ~2.5 in a driveway, hardest part was getting the O2 sensor out for access to one of the bolts on the engine side for removing the OEM pipes.
After the car got totaled, it took ~1 hour to remove the aftermarket pipes, in a parking lot, with a jack, jack stands, and electric impact.
I asked a shop once and they quoted me $200 for install, which was about 2.5 hours.
Will take some picks of the Downpipe re-install...
after i get the DPs Wrapped and Sealed, Next Week Latest....
tried to post pics, but will not take (too Big in size?)
It will take a shop roughly 90 min for the install but make sure to get your OEM DP back just in case you need to return to stock in the very near future.
I have to agree with Derfdog that a fair assessment would be roughly 200.00. for the install and might want to consider ordering new gaskets depending on the current mileage. Z
X4 Gaskets needed.http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=440&jsn=440 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=440&jsn=440)
I had a local shop charge me $225 IIRC for the DP installation.. that included new gaskets, and having to re-weld new flanges onto the exhaust system since the original owner had a custom exhaust up to the cats...
Quote from: ZSHO on March 31, 2017, 11:35:00 AM
It will take a shop roughly 90 min for the install but make sure to get your OEM DP back just in case you need to return to stock in the very near future.
I have to agree with Derfdog that a fair assessment would be roughly 200.00. for the install and might want to consider ordering new gaskets depending on the current mileage. Z
X4 Gaskets needed.http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=440&jsn=440 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=440&jsn=440)
Thanks Z!
You say 4x gaskets, but link brings up 3 differnet gaskets.
I believe the FEL-PRO 61236 and the MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ F32679 are just two versions of the same gasket?
We basically need 2 of each type and have an option for one of them if I read it correctly?
Quote from: lamrith on March 31, 2017, 12:39:32 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on March 31, 2017, 11:35:00 AM
It will take a shop roughly 90 min for the install but make sure to get your OEM DP back just in case you need to return to stock in the very near future.
I have to agree with Derfdog that a fair assessment would be roughly 200.00. for the install and might want to consider ordering new gaskets depending on the current mileage. Z
X4 Gaskets needed.http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=440&jsn=440 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=440&jsn=440)
Thanks Z!
You say 4x gaskets, but link brings up 3 differnet gaskets.
I believe the FEL-PRO 61236 and the MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ F32679 are just two versions of the same gasket?
We basically need 2 of each type and have an option for one of them if I read it correctly?
Two for the Front. 9.66. ea
CONVERTER GASKET, LEFT - 2013 FORD TAURUS
(AA5Z6L612A)http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6l612a/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-components-scat/?part_name=converter-gasket&position=left (http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6l612a/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-components-scat/?part_name=converter-gasket&position=left)
MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=9 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673764&cc=1503823&jsn=9)
(http://i.imgur.com/0dnfU6Qh.jpg)
TWO FOR THE REAR 9.81 ea
FLEX TUBE GASKET, RIGHT - 2013 FORD TAURUS
(7T4Z9450AA)http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/7t4z9450aa/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-components-scat/?part_name=flex-tube-gasket&position=right (http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/7t4z9450aa/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-components-scat/?part_name=flex-tube-gasket&position=right)
MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673752&cc=1503823&jsn=10 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7673752&cc=1503823&jsn=10)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836)
(http://i.imgur.com/QN6O8Dzh.jpg)
Here's an additional 5% off at www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com) using the promo code below,enjoy. Z :)
[5836875752458461]
This Discount code expires on April 30,2017.
Quote from: irondoor19 on March 31, 2017, 11:25:25 AM
Will take some picks of the Downpipe re-install...
after i get the DPs Wrapped and Sealed, Next Week Latest....
Used the Cheap Fiberglass kit from Ebay
Sealed with the High Temp Silicone.. Will Do Install Pics Tomorrow
What am I doing wrong?! I can't get the front, primary O2 sensor back in. I can't get it to fit before or after I put the pipe on. Help!
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Quote from: Linemonkey on May 05, 2017, 04:15:19 PM
What am I doing wrong?! I can't get the front, primary O2 sensor back in. I can't get it to fit before or after I put the pipe on. Help!
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I hope you don't have the SW DP!! ...some of the previous versions needed to be modified because of the 02 sensor Bung being at the wrong location and not being able in to reach. Z
Apparently, SW put the O2 bung at a slightly different angle than it should be... great
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Quote from: ZSHO on May 05, 2017, 04:29:40 PM
Quote from: Linemonkey on May 05, 2017, 04:15:19 PM
What am I doing wrong?! I can't get the front, primary O2 sensor back in. I can't get it to fit before or after I put the pipe on. Help!
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I hope you don't have the SW DP!! .Z
Yeah. I'm totally screwed, now. I wish I'd known about this beforehand! Now I've damaged the sensor and have to replace it. As far as I can tell I have two options. 1. Order an O2 90* elbow and don't drive my car for several days, while it gets here. 2. Splice extra wire into the new sensor and put it in the rear bung. (catless) What do you think?
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Quote from: Linemonkey on May 05, 2017, 04:39:21 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on May 05, 2017, 04:29:40 PM
Quote from: Linemonkey on May 05, 2017, 04:15:19 PM
What am I doing wrong?! I can't get the front, primary O2 sensor back in. I can't get it to fit before or after I put the pipe on. Help!
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I hope you don't have the SW DP!! .Z
Yeah. I'm totally screwed, now. I wish I'd known about this beforehand! Now I've damaged the sensor and have to replace it. As far as I can tell I have two options. 1. Order an O2 90* elbow and don't drive my car for several days, while it gets here. 2. Splice extra wire into the new sensor and put it in the rear bung. (catless) What do you think?
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I feel your pain brother!! I used a 90 deg elbow the first time around. Z
Call stainless and b*tch...ask them if you got old pipes...they had my sho in house to fit for pp cars with oil cooler...
Only us the 90 fitting for short term!!!...we need the 02 s sensor in the stream!!!
Linemonkey,
Did you see my last post? Don't run the 90 degree elbow long term...It can cause strange readings for the primary 02...That sensor is critical....So no fittings or adapters and I would get an OEM motorcraft sensor and make sure you get the correct part number...It has to be upstream sensor and the same part number so the pigtail is the same length.
Also you can go to a muffler shop and just have them put a bung in the proper location and they make plugs for bungs...So plug the other hole and install a new bung...No need for new pipes...Just put the new bung about the same distance away from the turbo.
There is a delay and response time that the ECU needs to know based on the distance from the engine and heater settings to keep the sensor tip hot.
Quote from: Linemonkey on May 05, 2017, 04:39:21 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on May 05, 2017, 04:29:40 PM
Quote from: Linemonkey on May 05, 2017, 04:15:19 PM
What am I doing wrong?! I can't get the front, primary O2 sensor back in. I can't get it to fit before or after I put the pipe on. Help!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I hope you don't have the SW DP!! .Z
Yeah. I'm totally screwed, now. I wish I'd known about this beforehand! Now I've damaged the sensor and have to replace it. As far as I can tell I have two options. 1. Order an O2 90* elbow and don't drive my car for several days, while it gets here. 2. Splice extra wire into the new sensor and put it in the rear bung. (catless) What do you think?
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My SW pipes came with an O2 extender cable I didn't end up using.... let me know if you want it, I'll ship it to you.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170506/f5286a4c909b6099d86495e42aafc56e.jpg)
Shipped, should be there by Wednesday!
You tha man! Ill try and pay it forward
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Now on to the next problem. After the install, it sounds like an angry lawnmower. The quest for descent exhaust tone continues...
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Did that extension cable work for you?
Quote from: irondoor19 on April 05, 2017, 12:12:00 PM
Quote from: irondoor19 on March 31, 2017, 11:25:25 AM
Will take some picks of the Downpipe re-install...
after i get the DPs Wrapped and Sealed, Next Week Latest....
Used the Cheap Fiberglass kit from Ebay
Sealed with the High Temp Silicone.. Will Do Install Pics Tomorrow
IronDoor19 did that cheap kit from ebay for your wrap last longterm? Can you link what you used for the wrap and paint?
Quote from: StealBlueSho on May 06, 2017, 02:08:24 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170506/f5286a4c909b6099d86495e42aafc56e.jpg)
Does anyone know where to find one of these?
I just bought the OBX as well and I wanna have the extender to save me trouble of going to a muffler shop.
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Is it required to replace the 2 rear gaskets from downpipe-catback?
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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on November 26, 2017, 10:24:14 AM
Is it required to replace the 2 rear gaskets from downpipe-catback?
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I reused the factory ones. They were in good shape.
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