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Oil Blow By?

Started by navbtcret, December 13, 2013, 04:12:38 PM

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navbtcret

I was checking my spark plug gaps today and was going to install the colder plug only to find that my car already had the one step colder iridium plugs install, 2013 non pp, but I did find a significant amount of oil on top of one of the spark plugs like someone installed the plug and then poured oil on top of it. I pulled the plug and of course now all the oil is in the cylinder so when I start the car after regapping the plugs is smokes like crazy for a minute. I take the car out for a spirited ride and come back, let the motor cool and pull the plug, no new oil. Now if it was blow by it would've been on the working end of the plug on not on top where the COP is.

It has me a bit perplexed as to how that oil would get there, if it was blow by it would have to blow by the threads on the plug to get there. Needless to say I will be checking this frequently over the next few week. The car just went over 500 miles on it today and I have only had it two weeks. It was the middle plug on the back side of the motor, towards the firewall. Just curious if anyone has had this issue and what your thoughts may be as to how this oil got there. I really do not believe it was blow by. I think it may have gotten there at the factory during the build but how I am not sure, it is not even close to the oil fill cap.

Very odd.

On a good note I did load the Livernois 93 octane 4+ tune and man does it drive like a different car now.
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes

navbtcret

They sent me a 93 octane stage 4 and stage 4+ along with a 91 octane stage 4. Those are the tunes I asked for.

Yes it is strange, in my almost 40 years of tinkering with cars I have never seen anything like this. The outside of the COP was dripping with oil when I pulled it off. I got a rag and cleaned everything up good and after my 20 minute drive it was still bone dry. Like I said I do not know how it could be blow by and the oil looked like it came right out of the can, not like it was in the motor even if only for 500 miles. Checked the dip stick and it is not low at all and that oil was a little darker than what was on the COP and my plug socket..
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes

SHOdded

A valve cover gasket leak usually would cause this particular problem.  You bought the car brand new?  It would seem someone got to it before you and fiddled with it, no idea why that would be.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

crash712us

Quote from: navbtcret on December 13, 2013, 04:12:38 PM
I was checking my spark plug gaps today and was going to install the colder plug only to find that my car already had the one step colder iridium plugs install, 2013 non pp, but I did find a significant amount of oil on top of one of the spark plugs like someone installed the plug and then poured oil on top of it. I pulled the plug and of course now all the oil is in the cylinder so when I start the car after regapping the plugs is smokes like crazy for a minute. I take the car out for a spirited ride and come back, let the motor cool and pull the plug, no new oil. Now if it was blow by it would've been on the working end of the plug on not on top where the COP is.

It has me a bit perplexed as to how that oil would get there, if it was blow by it would have to blow by the threads on the plug to get there. Needless to say I will be checking this frequently over the next few week. The car just went over 500 miles on it today and I have only had it two weeks. It was the middle plug on the back side of the motor, towards the firewall. Just curious if anyone has had this issue and what your thoughts may be as to how this oil got there. I really do not believe it was blow by. I think it may have gotten there at the factory during the build but how I am not sure, it is not even close to the oil fill cap.

Very odd.

On a good note I did load the Livernois 93 octane 4+ tune and man does it drive like a different car now.

It is valve cover gasket leak, I have heard a few guys finding this when going into changing there plugs.

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

TouchOfEvil

Quote from: DJE624 on December 13, 2013, 04:59:16 PM
Quote from: navbtcret on December 13, 2013, 04:30:51 PM
They sent me a 93 octane stage 4 and stage 4+ along with a 91 octane stage 4. Those are the tunes I asked for.

Cool, That' what I got.  Maybe it's the XSport they are calling V7.

Hopefully, somebody just spilled it there.
v7 is for the sho and it is the tune that was meant to address the stutter. If you don't have any stutter then they likely will not send that particular file.
2014 XSport

navbtcret

Quote from: crash712us on December 13, 2013, 05:05:38 PM
Quote from: navbtcret on December 13, 2013, 04:12:38 PM
I was checking my spark plug gaps today and was going to install the colder plug only to find that my car already had the one step colder iridium plugs install, 2013 non pp, but I did find a significant amount of oil on top of one of the spark plugs like someone installed the plug and then poured oil on top of it. I pulled the plug and of course now all the oil is in the cylinder so when I start the car after regapping the plugs is smokes like crazy for a minute. I take the car out for a spirited ride and come back, let the motor cool and pull the plug, no new oil. Now if it was blow by it would've been on the working end of the plug on not on top where the COP is.

It has me a bit perplexed as to how that oil would get there, if it was blow by it would have to blow by the threads on the plug to get there. Needless to say I will be checking this frequently over the next few week. The car just went over 500 miles on it today and I have only had it two weeks. It was the middle plug on the back side of the motor, towards the firewall. Just curious if anyone has had this issue and what your thoughts may be as to how this oil got there. I really do not believe it was blow by. I think it may have gotten there at the factory during the build but how I am not sure, it is not even close to the oil fill cap.

Very odd.

On a good note I did load the Livernois 93 octane 4+ tune and man does it drive like a different car now.

It is valve cover gasket leak, I have heard a few guys finding this when going into changing there plugs.


Thanks I will check the valve cover tomorrow and make sure it is tight. Yes this was brand new, only 32 miles on the car from test drives. Livernois said that some late 2013's had the truck plugs in them which is probably why mine had the colder plugs in already.
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes

navbtcret

So I have found the problem as to how the oil is getting in there. There is a seal around the opening in the valve cover where plug goes and where the COP is. The one is missing the seal, WTF. Needless to say it will heading to the dealer right away to fix this. I have been buying Fords for the last 20+ years and have never had any issues like this. Plus there are some flaws in the paint from the factory that have to be repaired too. I am glad I love to tinker with my vehicles or this would have never been found until there was a big issue because of it. It would eventually fill that area up and then start running onto the exhaust manifold and making a mess there, not to mention smoking.

It should be a fairly easy fix though, I could probably do it in a couple of hours tops with the part. It would be a real easy fix if the seal just pushes down in from the top of the valve cover without having to remove the cover. It looks like that is how it is installed too but without the seal I in hand I do not know. If is just goes in from the top then it is 5 minute fix.

The good thing is it does not effect the performance of the car and I am ok with driving it like this until it is fixed.
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes

BiGMaC

nav... glad you found it!...  :thumb:  your right about it never being found otherwise.  Reading the newer portion of the threadI did notice that crash called it yesterday.... what a man!  :no1:

As far as your paint here's a link to a thread I did on my SHO when it was newly delivered... My detail man posted pics, which included a partial repaint by the dealer to fix those imperfection... They are before, during and after pics...

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1496.15

If you don't want to read the thread the direct link is:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/132346-phoenix-detail-2013-sho-taurus-partial-repaint-water-spots-cquartz-finest/

You'll be amazed.  :eyecrazy:

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

navbtcret

My paint issues are the passenger side front door has drips hanging off the edge, a bunch of them and the drivers side rear door on the chassis it looks like while the paint was wet someone or something rubbed the paint off on the door jam and they clear coated over it. It will be repaired at Ford's cost but this should never happen from the factory imho.
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes

BiGMaC

Quote from: navbtcret on December 15, 2013, 11:18:38 AM
My paint issues are the passenger side front door has drips hanging off the edge, a bunch of them and the drivers side rear door on the chassis it looks like while the paint was wet someone or something rubbed the paint off on the door jam and they clear coated over it. It will be repaired at Ford's cost but this should never happen from the factory imho.

Agree entirely... I had those among other things.. Also lots of spiders and dealer applied sealant over water spots... I understand what your talking about.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

SHOdded

Nav, your diligence has been rewarded!  Bonus points for being proactive :)
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

EcoBrick Bob

Quote from: navbtcret on December 15, 2013, 11:18:38 AM
My paint issues are the passenger side front door has drips hanging off the edge, a bunch of them and the drivers side rear door on the chassis it looks like while the paint was wet someone or something rubbed the paint off on the door jam and they clear coated over it. It will be repaired at Ford's cost but this should never happen from the factory imho.

Ford will request pix of all the paint flaws and then they will repaint and blend in relatively large areas. Ford has to approve all paint repairs.   That's what they proposed on my Flex where there was a glob on the end of the pass side front fender.  I said NOOOO! and razored it off and touched it up. Not perfect but better'n them repainting hood an fender.
2010 Red Candy/White EB Flex.. World's first 12 second Brick.. 12.904 @ 106.85 MPH - October 2011
2009 Spt. Red G8 GT - modded. best time 12.074 & 114.02 MPH
2008 White G8 GT - mods... 8.32 1/8 mi.

Naples, FL & Clear Lake, IA
Bob has decided not to post here any more, please do not PM him he will not receive it.

TouchOfEvil

Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on December 15, 2013, 10:12:44 PM
Quote from: navbtcret on December 15, 2013, 11:18:38 AM
My paint issues are the passenger side front door has drips hanging off the edge, a bunch of them and the drivers side rear door on the chassis it looks like while the paint was wet someone or something rubbed the paint off on the door jam and they clear coated over it. It will be repaired at Ford's cost but this should never happen from the factory imho.

Ford will request pix of all the paint flaws and then they will repaint and blend in relatively large areas. Ford has to approve all paint repairs.   That's what they proposed on my Flex where there was a glob on the end of the pass side front fender.  I said NOOOO! and razored it off and touched it up. Not perfect but better'n them repainting hood an fender.

Dealers really do cause ALLOT of paint damage. When my esport was delivered i made sure to instruct them not to touch it i would handle that once i got it. They got fairly offended and even sent me an email stating such. They just don't understand that in buying new cars i have been there done that on dealer damage and it is not worth the risk to allow them to work on it IMO.

The worse was when my wife bought a new suv about 2-3 years ago, black, they swirled the entire ride badly. She told them not to touch it and they did so anyway. It took a 2 stage correction to fix all the problems.
2014 XSport

navbtcret

Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on December 15, 2013, 10:12:44 PM
Quote from: navbtcret on December 15, 2013, 11:18:38 AM
My paint issues are the passenger side front door has drips hanging off the edge, a bunch of them and the drivers side rear door on the chassis it looks like while the paint was wet someone or something rubbed the paint off on the door jam and they clear coated over it. It will be repaired at Ford's cost but this should never happen from the factory imho.

Ford will request pix of all the paint flaws and then they will repaint and blend in relatively large areas. Ford has to approve all paint repairs.   That's what they proposed on my Flex where there was a glob on the end of the pass side front fender.  I said NOOOO! and razored it off and touched it up. Not perfect but better'n them repainting hood an fender.


Photos have already been sent to Ford and I know what is involved on the repairs. The door they can just remove and paint it but the other area will require blending, if it is not done to my satisfaction they will have to try a new body shop is all.
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes

navbtcret

The car is going in tomorrow to get the seal installed, very surprised it is happening so fast. It just went in yesterday and they ordered the part, it came today so scheduled for first thing tomorrow morning. The paint job will be fixed the 2nd of January, hopefully they only have it for less than a week for that repair. I better get a decent loaner.
2013 SHO Non PP, LMS 93 Performance v8, 3 Bar MAP, 170 Stat, MDesign CAI, Hot Pipes with TiAL BOV, PPE Catted Downpipes