In the vein of others doing build threads, I decided to make a central location for all things pertaining to my own build. I hope you guys can indulge an XSport owner, but I get more feedback and enjoyment from this forum than the one my own platform represents. I have literally thousands of photos that are doing nothing but sitting in a photo album, what's the fun in that if I can't share 'em? This is basically a data-dump so others can use what they need if necessary.
I've done quite a bit to the rig since I bought her brand new in 2015. She's been promoted to weekend warrior/no-daily driver status so I can park her when needed for as long as needed when doing modifications. It's definitely evolved over the years and is now pretty much a full-time project car.
I enjoy doing the write-ups on all the mods I do for a few reasons. Mostly to share what I've learned from the rest of the community such as yourselves, but also, honestly, possibly even receive a bit of notoriety, LOL. Many of the mods I discovered by interacting on this forum and just taking them to new or different levels, so I figured what better way to give back then to showcase my work so that others can take what I've done and take it even further. Plus...no need to make the same mistakes I did, LOL.
Anyway, up to this point, I've taken many of the threads I already posted in this forum and, admittedly, re-posted them here. However, I've made sure to title each post, link to the original thread and many I've even updated to reflect new information, photos or corrections. All my work will still be search-able via the search feature of the forum. Going forward however, I'll only be posting mods here, so check in from time to time to see where I'm at with it. This is not all-inclusive of every mod I've done, but is pretty darn close. If you notice something I didn't write about, feel free to hit me up about it. Also, feel free to mimic the work, provide insight and ideas, criticize and poke fun or just live vicariously through me, LOL.
I've gone back and done some write-ups on some of my older modifications so this will generally be chronological, but not necessarily.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mACPRSZEUxXfzFcq0qt883SD0Llwp3rqGJkVKHt8Uw7oWGgsj78wCYbWF9PeTPO3R0NswMRV1RnRVaT5-vjRZMNj1AmQkXqKxoeNW9Jtq32WfeDGaX0f9oDQQuthWz2r1GxNq_GwRuTt-N0DZy1sQNI5EOGLRtY0JD36H7iqQs-6Aatq8dNrSyzfofYqTNKEk?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
You'll notice the running tally of my weight reduction modifications in some of the posts. It won't be completely accurate as it isn't always taking into consideration some of the modifications that required me to add back some weight. This was usually minimal and the running tally is a decent approximation of the weight loss.
Anyway, thanks for checking it out! Follow the build on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/4theworkshop/), Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/4theworkshop/), or my blog website (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/) if that's your sort of thing. I also add content to my YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/fortheworkshop?view_as=subscriber) channel from time to time. And finally, I'll be creating a blog site soon and will update that link when it becomes live, so stay tuned.
Red Front And Rear Ford Emblems
So, this was my very first modification I ever did on this car after I bought it in 2015.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mdGVjpUdaFFKDw9kgRxH1bn_DkU3k036WGa7EhGjP2gARXbrgY0i3n08b0R0fS5o97cP3meOReT2Rn5aNYjf0zZEyXlJur9GNJuMpBigd7ZBGRQ_uIIdiQRbiMVnedKHhR5ITtXiSJskXzpyWrV-8KqkzO1Iou3bDqRZLXPzsyJyEyvKKd6Qf5eBWS41xHyg8?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Black & Red has always been my favorite color combination and I felt this car would've looked better with red Ford emblems as it was, at the time at least, their performance version of the Explorer. Anyway, it's hard to find QUALITY non-blue oval Ford emblems, believe it or not. Most places that make them get shut down pretty quick by Ford for copyright issues, so when you find a good set, if you're not doing it yourself, scoop it up!
I got this particular set from Custom Truck Solutions. I don't think they are in business anymore as the website (Custom Truck Solutions (http://'http://www.customtrucksolutions.com')) goes nowhere and their Instagram (CTS (http://'https://www.instagram.com/customtrucksolutions/?hl=en')) hasn't had a post since July of 2018. But I'm sure there are others making them. As for the color choice, I wanted to keep it OEM "looking". You know, if Ford had done it, how would it have looked? I think keeping the logo's font chrome and changing only the oval background is how Ford would have done it. So I did that instead of blacking it out or changing font colors...gives it more of an OEM look and feel to it.
I felt they were of high quality at the time, and fast forward 5 years...they still look GREAT! No chips or dings at all, especially the front one, where I would've expected that sort of wear & tear.
Front:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPcLGURwj8kGOmj0RRh8hS_4sQd7MYAMjsBi6shygChZK6EwD5QiqNjbxazAd8qw5FLMZ1UpCnRUP9tloEU3YWdXOxhnZfyLcMkMgHlCoikQ-QgW0YCVF6w1kgLtzXSZx8yVeSZbdd9HkcvdXvj-_38RdxP-8_-o5bDRaiM8YgrytW1iBVxkGYAa-g_zfi71m?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
Rear (please excuse the dirty car, lol):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrm_bWi_ozfXEreTxLxqwdG82MqXj7Uak8YJoC7DqDYYsc4EfgA8gL6Ij7A_6EavZSCuPDebC9Og1bnkCk59mdQRC-QgeCjX8IpgPyK6l4O2ij4ndxywslbDl9uK8ZbU7e2CHjuwOVjBpI9GqG8DzxUkE9Z5-ABqM6TR-jXNytg7iJhrqk3113DqChp8FM4q_?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
It was a small modification, but I like it a lot. IMHO, it looks almost factory in the way it was made and quality of work.
TCE Wilwood Big Brake Kit Installation
This was a project that seemed daunting at first, but thanks to Todd over at TCE Performance Products (http://'https://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/'), it turned out to be tedious, but altogether simple. A great company with great customer service, BTW. I highly recommend them.
A few caveats: you WILL lose usage of your emergency brake with this kit. Currently there is no way to mount a Wilwood ebrake caliper to it as the mount is not provisioned for it. I may hit Todd back up to see if he is willing to entertain designing a new mount that may allow for the installation of Wilwood's ebrake caliper, but since these aren't "flying-off-the-shelves" I'm not sure there is much energy going to go into that. The kits require 19" diameter wheels at a minimum and if you're running the stock 20" wheels, you'll need a 10mm spacer. All these things were taken care of with my aftermarket wheels, so no worries in my case. I am very appreciative that there is even a kit upgrade at all.
Keep in mind this kit was designed for the Taurus SHO (http://'https://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/flex-/-sho/kits-23/'), but since the Explorer and Taurus share so much of their parts, it was virtually plug and play, keyword being "virtually". We discovered some subtle differences.
It's a shame that Ford decided not to go with some Brembo (or even Wilwood) brakes on what would be considered it's "performance SUV". It already has the updated heavy-duty setup from the PIU from Ford, and there are a few bolt-on disc upgrades out in the aftermarket. But I wanted to go a step further, probably overkill, but it performs as good as it looks...
Anyway, I will denote what side the photo came from, but bear in mind that what is needed in the front goes for both driver and passenger side, and same for the rear, regardless of what side I took the photo on.
So, starting with the front. This is the initial OEM setup after removing the front wheel (driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2n06PR6OB4pNkO4BZgMaIyQz9VAX8wbQLyHKLjG001qSVpr67JGAdNewR3mSfFc_3IPceoFdWASFQSdHOvupIEzKVQSj66_WUcWADVL9aR6v93Is-_tRs6g5eCs6VCHx9pfQgPmmboKLiWh3fxGx2F3T2u6MH3o1LAJURBrzwNQ9B-wQSe_yeoc5N69Adqis?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
To ensure the brake lines would be similar to OEM in the way they flexed while turning, I took some "before" shots to compare to when install is complete.
Front wheel in straight position (driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_ozSquPW7R0J29Ka4MWDWCB2NQNJucGfniHPVmIYsxoSZ1MISRNy1JrQJIOvRGPBeAClJ982DUHnaB08T7QHFzfHlGUA7ovf4zvA9dMr5JHyD-xekWcHq6wXHyHndE9qL6m7Seh5LSBlrukgeeV87X5H4pAkUqd8WftgdCRKa4WBZC7hYwNCWBrWT4A7FPAm?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front wheel in full chock left position (driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrT0UPowvT1N9Lk1cYZC6qbF3BJXWgJWAkPiOZxia4JltpAyXk3F0d7zHX131N2PwSa7Bf7K1MUasDobf4WyvAs9o1jcyM7v89WiX2BmikOa6QOEup1pgC3QWjF4YmJO2YHAdIy9syxFq72OX8eo0ilSPbFzKaFCpki2MnQM7rJMmOTu2g1WcV0OlkfQqXuLH?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front wheel in full chock right position (driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mt6-z-vOGzZac6HXFjGuehdqy5onVN4mncZrXEzSkdnVkfXL-w4ZtvqqrZtGQUqepQoZGAbKZaHm2fj0XcB5ECpYCqI5u1yHPMYAKt06i41Ls5J2yNlPwDsfNx3FGgpg2eVg92F7y8f8A6HfnFlukdUsJ-qPhP1FHCHEeuoXuGikVpajLYwsAOZ0j4b6WYb4K?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
When I removed the front caliper and rotor, I also measured the stock brake line length to compare with the provided TCE brake lines (passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOehwXMinRK5vPNAnAgQJ351sy1uhJiRVMTLIlJRGB0RvdZ16-Cy_KBbECxtHnZsnBZfSZZSaz9sOVO2XzTBnm7YUT7uaQxnQj2r4q7NiiON-pg0-s9Jbf6udItjUZvqXeRybFW0yvkSgAmzppdl8vEmise0QqM8yKt2Td6jF0dHpkK9Btp2_sMHi-9irIibr?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
After removing the front brake line, you're left with this setup (passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLMlFiIXy5XjVwgNIKoDezrJI6_ic_wv9T8MUMBk2yg7QcUk0_ZlyjEKxJJY-4iuNCJLf6edg6gUG8NW4PvfGaiZHnOpsvoSeluel_8KX9v3hbllYO-oJKcjf577kpEEfCoWYdWdR4jcYDRVYt8qy_M_izLhlqBLkrsbrVdrvYBabzh-q2N_jEWKiMw1-p1rp?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Before moving onto installing the new stuff, the aluminum hats had to be installed onto the front rotors:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDj6K71FZOCNYse73-shwgYyGd567GTwJZGiOJCBoFtHSvkGjsqfyWY5ixKOjhPYNxs1fOXccq0hAjEosal-QrMk0wRJRU-onxAngZtbMFDclgPi7KAsHIdau9wrGvs68O-aVE92yDpGmXp3ttcsJZvnD9Lfnlf6kVf00C_suyW1epTrt9XujuCWdHHJm7o5l?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Big ass 15" front rotor!:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4RXQoBT_rFM3C5XyT6JMdSmm4ikgfApZa3kzOg7fGtDxL_UUP1ah2_SUdCSr_CT7aMXge4O_LNQ92qNXK8ngIoa_t36qZHkIuJeoxGAsdla1c53Rf1ELq2rZpuiVRZGWUREw1z9sBNJ8SnFlipbjiFXSuBq1VKpcvbBQw7_CF-RayL3DJnKlG3g_OzFF5zqx?width=1024&height=911&cropmode=none)
Before I installed the new rotors, I knew my aftermarket wheels had no center cap, leaving the hub nut and end of the axle exposed (by choice, the wheels can come with center caps if chosen) so I wanted to clean up the rusted hub nut and axle end. I used a wire brush to get as much rust off as possible and then I sprayed some rust inhibitor onto the exposed portions:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msh9YkPkEDW8E7td_N2NgaZZNdGtEJomOEZEWXbn5QTdxxY3uMgny9YL8OsSr6YNfZlQsy32izyzcpW9gDFX3SxgCEiubMhnbVDu4TSMiXg6_0HKLGWFPemtAz3_Tznnkvg3lpJD6w4WD09baJkQjrDQzUQQwN41bcBEE_5oJpRJJm1d9h66mO0VTbcery8DD?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I then installed the rotors onto the front wheel hubs. I used a 1" spacer and a lug nut to keep the rotor pressed tight against the hub while doing the rest of the installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUPSbo2vznpjRrwiheNNOyFZfazPoil4_smG8Bh2QeCub8XAXclvscC63ljYBRwMIHsc0827oilrMXpkGch6IpqGeb1oRilX3zqPv6ayzVHfP2JqLGZRM0YqE-Eu9nvab99uxPLqz95Zfx7XX5E2vbZOk12QrX3hWIGIsjVIGdm1g8PcHOSzNShgDGMINAkEd?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
This image also shows the hub centering ring installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUFkWWFGcTNIOeEt254yW4k_i5lskd9QTRH7BzpuV1ms1g9AFQtucdv1Yw55omTTBbbvV2Q6InwziTkSBiI9Jc_bwer2jQq6aKBxaOrtRQ86VZ7dKanbwhKGUbKwx2aD1ZZDW9SEMK1lxR989J_nQN8zpl3ShceA8MNCF5xlSSneaq7qUuCB7hjDZtK3XSWSf?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
One of the first differences I noticed was, the end of the front brake line that attaches to the vehicle side was nowhere near the type of connection I got from TCE:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mq9ppSMsKAkvf81MfAYKRqGSJ-oU7xTCT0MHfNDcPbnOpzQ3fhc80fKh5xl7IYBEnrSkRpKk8LTCy5jHJqRuqpt7EgPA8CQj81KCwswHiAiZeqbXdGpBQMpkxoLnJG8kHrTbCcE5RmUmJzltWyPEwxwmmC2xMaJcAA46hLcKU_6GG8NkC88TqIDOShSVGdwoK?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After contacting Todd about it, 1 week later I had the proper brass fitting to adapt the new lines to the OEM connection point:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNRlNebTfdwcbRLem7O-QiRZmifpPci-601HjpPpyFfG6ErLmi_2NDU9s5OjqP6H21j_MrSORlsFDdwG9SNcGiVxMpYK_29pe-xchD3xFT8Oz1RYkhQ2dJG5VuW7IdqSWuoDN387Y4wjO7ix1Bv11zyi-HwDbCkvhja0GCBvp6ADVFWbnRDRQJ-oOys2fui2k?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Installing the caliper mount is pretty self-explanatory. When mounting the caliper to the mount itself, keep in mind, you don't want to use loctite of any kind. You will want to be taking these off when changing pads, so you don't want these things seized onto the studs. Instead, use some anti-seize so the threads don't gall while tightening and it helps to lubricate the threads to attain a more accurate torque at the same time:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQSl72PFrWUaLhO8AiiwRyyRmRL1AlLX_5iYzlH0-NdLUI-1l9ceUsytWSoZtT6Q4Rj9GaaOsOanVhJm6d6miXj0BUzNiRlkuoDAu2h6Qf6vOJnYCHqqDtcKA72h6VZWApZGQEwGqzLbVsFIlT3klY3NhHSY0y3QjvQdICJgSqUtC9wmFR4yDWarNak3b2jph?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Caliper mounted (front driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mcUhDD_lKhtQu-tc7ayb-YLp4J29LC66bisk2Iocyeq4wxFDo09gI0CQE0pzg5lNkrBQc3ECcJChn5h99SVEu2BhruajS-bkOiSv05kjapmIffv6o7ZRHmPxwjoMXodo4P5lCYjYxWYf97hEE8yBWC7B14YSlTLcQ6-5VBJ7whDqA33nyAt-A_SHZsFYQQLqA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The first set of brake lines were a little long. I didn't discover this until it was mounted. The lines were initially about 19" end-to-end:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLeWyzBst-Nuxjp_7oXCFfLO75kqAoBBSzsUjK1VQ_5UyFmLAUwY8DryvE2lbjWbHzVzUZ_hLR_6AoqcDTXE3hR5wzWlWIF7q3ugPNq6dFGqpHi2mWsyGVyb7BiRABPjs8jLyropCAVAHi1yFD-UEqGVeuykOiw0MbtvoscHrS4lIzD4WpfKfCOyUgaHtYEnM?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Mounted, straight (front passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIjCZ5B-nPuE5_6Hgbw_VU8cP3gCc1nG4SnZQmTv6gERsWbnqOcXWZqDeSuhbm9t39ghDEOYQMaxefAOjp6iK-dN_gvchvMBWBNDounOO8HFkqykVEV15mXemT0wUhX0L_YFrLb6n0Doc1yjXIgGPFBPBJbrwRSM2IRBH6MmYhGjOuSxuwtHTwP4y4_E_f7Bz?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Mounted, full chock right (front passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVBuy83v0tb1BV_hhLQnGtlzw3w5bl6shAdUR0M2J58baxB0jpd3ph6xSqvQ2-N5EvsYRYfGW9cPCSoia_rZCZDjyB8Wo0jo_Dvej-eCqvSJbxc0L0WWEpkKrPsQC_cbV8BFtRlZNkPBYmV0pAghvd_1zoMtKksFz9dORVyUfB9jzxep2i6ytPe__qX-u084O?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Mounted, full chock left (front passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqZXhVq5zwDJmMb8gTUSVS3GanNdPQFuigGVKnihsP6QGsDtwRDKXFA8VMngfFXKxRs_2rCEwQzxVGYhIrLfsPhe_rJ-PYVWvdpnbG4zz17zh7hAE9LxaNfke46hdjqie7XoXM5BaZzmfHOuxFK78o41FsVzLFX_Z2kGppm972yhLmtZgyq6lE_t-B6uAdmQp?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As you can see, the lines work, but they are a bit too long for my taste. There was too much potential for the lines to rub on the inside of the wheel or some other part of the wheel well as it travels in various positions while driving. This is where some experimentation came in and I gotta say, Todd came through in a big way on this one. He dealt with my picky-ness and multiple length requests as we nailed down the perfect length. And he sent every single set for free! Now that's customer service!
About 2 weeks (and about 3 sets) later, we had finally nailed down that 16" end-to-end was the perfect fit:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQ7FBWS5JU-e5-qHzdlVyBx3w8Em9SZjOVejH-2xixRpQxpKKLHYTsJ0VWnf3Ubd1L2vmOh8B223HDuYH8Sgr-4-kMHUykEO95ENhReZ3QBMspWOa6o0X61vG0xJt0K72Hw9EWOwXSY5G6CV5cM3O_btifUFIKz4x14g7FKY8hfmFBPLVVQJLH5imZSeysF2-?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Mounted, straight (front passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1j0PZfguyWNvqoeYgNH5c8NrirrWalTvrN_9cZiDfUIKOKgR51nmu7t4Ys-mSjLXO_DaVxyV0oDmYxf-0UuZ3WUIAr1T7v5MsWnL40J7zZvcfHLLDysU86xmrIJCxhd4sZ3EFq2BL47NjRTbamzlXMMoGedZMJLcr5U3WJTRrNz016fSJXTtC3tLywLGE6_O?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Mounted, full chock right (front passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlGdUVcKEfDmEWPfOScOJPWXo1VZgmnekZseR3Wd4u9PLpxTyfVyIPPFOgK107YGrmuBLWVNeehXCA51n5QGYwzCj5OMSv4l7jgy2yKRq3vjJSGQQ8xNXaFlvhrz767h0ExpzTpY2MY6mWb50XhjhE0Tz-hXbf545zonicw7Dc0gFBGshJmtnHKHtmA3dpCLu?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Mounted, full chock left (front passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMn84Tnmi46deGlmhCZZs7L1DFYJCuQrkgH-YZd0cCixylngx-RcbX1LmWRxlNLg9VeaG9QDkxUoyro6OJtLGumAaw-B5VrzcjbRSv9oIBpwwIYMoDGZ2I6ZyjWs7XNv8YJnbag1dnu6oA_uCQvEPptPE6wJimm5P9HVY2bhek89Ne4A83J_ONMQsPtj2SbgH?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This arrangement allowed for the necessary amount of flex, but wasn't too "loose" that it was in danger of rubbing on something.
That completed the installation of the front brakes, now onto the rears. Now, while removal of the stock front dust shield was a simple affair, the rear dust shield was a different story. Because of the way it was installed, the entire wheel hub would have to come off in order to remove it properly. I did not wish to do that, so I took the easy way out...I cut it off. Seeing as I wouldn't be using it anyway, it wasn't too big of a deal:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6SHhaNHZqbKe0ePTotYeZdziRw7vk5R8VncVVNDCOeqQEwsgKbuh5N3Ncm38DcDhbgAm5i0TIUSd68m9yueDFKohAWOewHCDhGZDXCjFqd1mxLTBpjAwtT1vKYl8kWQgddEM7puDF89d9zeVMJh5Ti4J5razgUeUhI01cprRIwdx02O-ITmonBt_qUUaDpuE?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
14.25" rear rotors:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msGgSa4S6z1RfiLKK0069idPhZdLD1g8Q16MQVtaop3SgxsjIAdhfYi2nKATvWoN5V-PDRxUq_3THY3G_jrrG02FRC3hsAd5gcON4PrVPtpZTP8jB-SffAcjJTTC73zARJhdrLQJjaXvp2xqWXSqVumYTg8vtN50LCf0_kEeiDSZ3qnSZVd7c0l-mYdCdt470?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This is the OEM setup (rear driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXU4-Erqh8Zr4hdw8i0qRey84Dwp1ZSZEJ9USNajL-uTwf4esuh76x4Id8yWgoGGYoU87kYbQYDwrV2mkeFyGiS9ZIIhCe7nFa_m1fpPT-mawkUPbLHS21hvLkmDH4WMu9td-qhirTXcM2dTy5u_NglFrd3pAWKIaXUeChy-Z8irWqbdzwFYn9IuYGLaQszgi?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is the OEM setup from the inside. Note the angle and positioning of the brake line. I attempted to recreate this angle while the suspension is in its normal, compressed state (rear passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPgeFR03FZ6DA5k6TUAJZpEhZd75ueAdeUiVq3F50bQC172RL_4fnBQZ9mj1qj1zsMkaXjmrtxE9kyBr2XywwuCE-vbYLhTBHbT0x1MlJdb5aygUDZWqyVbrkZlrIO0lweeg4asRag0_EmCWXyWiR1Rd7kusqztbuRFteS3hXxlTI-4Hx06-2BFIsNbc5jI5Z?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
When removing the rear caliper, the emergency brake will have to be disconnected and the line secured somehow. When I disconnected it, I took the loose end and used a metal zip tie (normally used for exhaust wrap) to secure it in a location that will not interfere with suspension travel (rear driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moCI_VvZreEh0FD-5C64yqkEDvgALbuTOZ4zBhuETm9JXz_okN3_E0a3ocsxXDgWbYDwa5BobfQVS7QnpwedUOTIOnoVdosrZCxjGqWD7ocgkFzaQQiKhLDLFT28JeAG-BNR28P2hdP-NY4RKZy4UlccqRR-9zOGhN9aZ2fFiA5syaCiK_3zF-EPVDYYcCg9f?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mw2AYSdXvW_QKf6R_HMtNyKT3GWmW73x180Ol9bfjwzcMYVFeVDUaTXSpIw9COGwxR1KvsTqXRez2BoSmqhCtWSkXsoZmw5aOxGKuEkcFd6OSn7-GjxpHf1gvfXdmcp8W0ncAPWm48F5W65yqU0vfGj3OU1kuyx2Efpu8jUgALjZI9ZrXdkyss-V4YSL9J4GA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Before you can mount the new rotor, you need to install the caliper mount. Well, before you can do that, for the rear, you'll need to trim (flatten is a better word) a small amount off of the wheel hub, as denoted with the black sharpie lines (rear driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEZesqbH4du4TZT22QsicmYF5zmzOS6thg3OTVJkAI33-Bxud96t0pNVhLbcSD7Gke5WW2RdkLsc3YtCuTHd5EtE_Df5Pco0sXnrOnrex9OOb53f_FNzvyhi3keFv03J2ClP--gb-Uf-kOtcJh4uIHvW8LDdL5E2uasjgo5KJfyLWr_z3CCp3fgTR0dCHqS2g?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I just used my trusty angle grinder with a sanding flap-wheel, worked like cutting into butter:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4molQhNOhH_t1HTkJPj3TrVt_pH4sdktg_mEmvhvaXoDeUpzIkQ-hgFSrv7dmUBjuuIW1NciwEPrGr7qz4PlRwhg0EIlCJXxxkQjFa4hXCiwkGYtXOhc_AwrcRLtpgg5520FyK9U5dDYcyqhB3FscTJD7WlPDAHxS1FR5-ntiDWdRLUAHBAf9OqMuc7wrLTVLl?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Finished product (rear driver's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mY2lKuAIPjOJ53dyllIjcy4kp9a0K_7QSXIHwV1-_B1L62BWlx6gfR6waaDRgpNs6oepIaUVzDkZRdaTraloYkh7DoFInQl4ANVrQVWknTqDP3mTZbalycAFtQ2Qo6wLdW2rODjRZ0cUbckopn2_VnL68aS-4zWdGWL_vS2v9J3ofU-wWVrM6hnwTBjjjjY3C?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After mounting the rotor and caliper (rear passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSWUAxlej51jm8UVpkcvFI-rX5H-hWhLtBB-j7JSGe_YRUKIF5D66Y1ZZA6O09ln7cu50YXN20Bk8pTIMWQ3TC_oThAXCZ3bGrgP7v4Dl99PPuRL60bu3l--3wZ-YjTvlRwejN-fh5tAwcvikhrRUkXV9VVwoZ1--O7npRxswdU2IaFlob9BDFj63IbTTwrTa?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Well, it again came time to ensure the brake lines were of the correct length. The ones Todd sent were 19.5" long end-to-end which included the custom adapter piece on the end:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_XQNHjidE1vvyvPANIj1J_cmkbjDJQ1zaqeYKGSxY0kpqWC2hVz3JrI0qDepRXlzoXhF1TYKkfkme9PyhNLFxKdy5N0YJMsWyDwwkFn9q4uo-_E1jBLlbygelrIWUKsM_hUoVZU8qrkzXqp4vEEyPcNQQcn-v9iTAmCgbzWjQOVKsRurc9Z0y6fnpBVXa_95?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
There were multiple issues with this line. It was far too long and the fitting that secures with a clip on the vehicle side was the proper one and the clip was very loose. This length would create issues as it would rub on the inside of the wheel, a potential hazardous scenario. Turns out, a hose that was 17" long end-to-end to include the now-integrated proper end fitting was what was needed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mxBypjicdDjrA5QiN5yCiQmDOU4gip2fNWj4Qa3jk6_zK468yoLfGKw3vl53s8ACuTppHPYG9Op0pU_5e0TnXizZoDwuZdtXGq1dWL6ixAd3eDpDr9yTuUzFGBHY3dmvOYQdbJ2XVXUDbUNY7oTVzS4eKX1pOv2vfiWErRjNq6NjPNJ1cSiGYjJpW3MmOkPBJ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Here you can see that angle I attempted to recreate, in order to keep the line from rubbing the inside of the wheel (rear passenger's side):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m55OPEl2LttjnBfjCMihLGcPbaHBLc6EA4oWg1iCJU89YYx6etzK5eSt1Wur5o43W5HBzPHq2T9TJwwN1HJlrOcT4Or4cMFrSAEofAWAewIUO_3ef-v3sq5ZMXInyek0MSK2dshD_TtixKsd6fZH0ejwoS3y2I8M8ntzGFAfcxxRpbN4T6XOfw0T7_I1vDQ4w?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNmoMdAUBDiG6OPrPSjDCUWDjg2mopW6YkzHTnQn1vrG0FXRWldbZAzYeQPT0CHOb5kXj9iMjhULzASC4qpLyPjbfIWNy8nIVqOfs5CNjV06uPfhrhln5LPLRaMkAHKNWkNfrcDiBdbmq3kg-r_TtNT-eE9GUmwl2a71XHZaH4UqstVySeJeQkLFdAazeQHfe?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And that was it...last thing to do was bleed the brakes and then go break them in. There is a break-in procedure that is very important to stick to given in the instructions.
Looks good!!!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYyJa6ew8MkN4jHOAub5CR0MMFQeiMdoxV-yNZZA3bmPUMvPD0am-zxmI_2SDhGNJX4BTQsDt8DS-8A1r2OUMOb3GJobWY7FddJFQyERjNuJuKujCC39x-d5k-74xawzj61cjtaq7KC8nGHW1DBqi_5PsKxzakK6GV9BDCPE0ks0nCfRIoCVRrN9SIr3E2bE7?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
And finally, to illustrate how much Todd was willing to go out of his way to make this kit fit right, all the brake lines we went through to get it right:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mq6AU-fadHOD4cV1toWU7BI5pmZJQgVLndGd1kLmrGqlx3CAm8QiI2KJeVPi4z0iQmIH-6s6cpYPfOELfgz9GQmwjI5WV3DSNjDin5XrAVgz9xK4JLWiq60hTvvsWcNhivWEfPOJ_XEX0IcaZ08MME21c5VozknqcJHtpKNLmCupoe8awLq4Wq5yHLmQbup4g?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Some weight comparison photos:
Front rotor:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlk7u6t7euF6Ek9UjWm3cISyo5HkBY-_oMJogqb8lqsSwvfwGdRQhqMUMyAkaXZIVzR-9zAkSr9f8e21BRkYQ-JWm8RMbux_E3KAKOBgZXhtzuR9TGBoslNVUV3WEO8Q8vcKeeoZaf3gM196ML_XdEng4d1L90BkPmjrzt3wxJTe-V6enQvu5Zcw0KCt8ISlh?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front caliper:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPjMiQU89jJl0hn0XHY6vYupEAamvGNhit8ovRHeW04cAAIJKDKVgmbCYbem4-2vPMmfUemW1HsfcwS4o_aegkBrfXFkEUfw4bwG7oYCN1Gu7kSPFAx9rl1sCvhqfz3-64vrqYP-dNC7ifsb-SVAiITcaPoLS7cSsl9IeQzK5pv6RRzGLqjC_z2Cgh3prIsU7?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front pad:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzi6zCYtrntiroVOrhzBg5d76PQ7pgkQdAPZHXLXdpwyL_GVBlfmRN0aqvpNljY8Cm2I4G-2PewzgcUyeKFCvGDzC86HqwJs2ceYQKlVkMNk8g8gtXAv1VeiItlREetLhgEKt9y3pMyfChAbYJGUgpntFaCVelqfQbhxZFbVXm06KdIFW06xhR730OH3qMmfI?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front dust shield:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mdn41rvF_u7U54IRPYtHr9T8ORbiO5PPH_xHvHAxkpigf-ZYQy3wScLwEj_7GliljcL_SrQth1-SYBJetVncWktjsWGYp9T8vKcKmxBN0QRBoN5pty9QpzJHkQTlUEIMIQRTIyeeJcvYd0TgzxpgFOipB1J0rlS2uubOA0ZSbf4ptVeaXvRpOU0G4n_iwj9N9?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear rotor:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mm_-z1yfK49qnmaS_x9WVUqLyqIhJs2AvIOIGhq8fVmlKkqMjqfEYsSF1I59TmRvHzqD-52wxMn7NuP7CUbySJHmuALBz5BeodkLxIY-LdjcD-b1b-kpcAqgzkY563EgItlx9tBfcyNX66iMx4a65znI-SoMcVM3Pq4ALrR6ZgZMfmUPa1Iu0aCECyBIDjDE-?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear caliper:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mxyNlgnFP-RiMFhXuZetSIXdtIcx0xEqvov8Qaw8IqNU0g9qqxAyJlFrHNKVNVV0RPKLS5FkjFpGkArrBb8Vc0zS0YMmRg0m32_6ij0A1jJ7RB_yjlxihqFNpYZM3EWLz3i1wGHutEQEH01A9mM2kgbTAnXYmERm78X0CZlCHcMJmSOFJTPs05DoGitG56JFd?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear pad:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwbEOIh-Ze1WNXgpi1z_d-DFQxymVMRjn6HGr-z9BDDHhbAkXeWilRIwCfviXA_1obOWNxWc49y9F6ahkLd2kO4I7nExWFqskZ2E4JE6g8_xm-NvckUHsM9vplBHfDsGuPQEzHmLmD0q2YtriR_8NaBuGCvfuraY54N0xGY1Ivb_NF3U6EkWjSHIb66DfLpf7?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear dust shield:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzwSwmf7FoQ0Mi5wh1oPhgR4oZH_-MmQAu8EhHPj6VoEn2G87rLsknrCvZctCDNLh6dp0_J3CyMC_TStqGB2TnNd0FwKqQ7SNXW0F3GKzDQ6JooW3KXHGFVVNparK-fTI7sLurYPO9-zAEnFdNzvb5rai7xuK3OrHp3xrCRL471dhCkJk2Cep1RHJ-TsVGduM?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~40.0
Weight Reduction: Aftermarket Wheels v1.0After running stock 20" Sport wheels with 25mm spacers for a few years, I decided to step up my weight reduction game while also putting some new shoes on the rig.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOWChTXSx5sfa5mHJyeGmuJWOhPsRR0iNuus7PABKV0hssewlpZLZar4NWYaq1Gje2Xx0lb-90zQDZeem5qBkPokOLdDecRy304OQQ89J8BExN0H9c0vgu9jN3XM55GqgwLxriNW92mm_pRB5mHt2pJc_15LPrd4l7cYcBzPpvElH4HD6zlasJGY5ZwwOIrya?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRKRl_PoP2lXGjsvS462uKPlnNkFgiEH6ZNYOgRr-WVP33tjXFUMADxnTkHinpmcbpa4LQiFS1nv2PWj3gc9c8oH8-mqvzZQQTHVMaWeHn6f8z5p-ftA5lmcmptWdcQVKGOTolaHGF9JrnEyX7g5_hyk_SFd2HmyTIeLpf2Lzq-5DK3zoCLKcUhuicO8e55sA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It looked good, but I felt I could improve on performance. Trying to maintain the outside diameter of the wheel was important for me so that minimal changes, if any, would be needed in the tune for speedometer correction.
I also wanted to increase width of the wheel for traction as well as add some "stance" to her. I spent a lot of time on this Wheel-Size Calculator (http://'https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/') comparing various wheel and tire combinations along with various offsets to try and maximize what I can fit within the confines of the wheel well.
I was focused on the lightest wheels out there and currently those are, generally, the Volk Racing or Advan Racing wheels, so that is where I put my focus.
OEM Ford Explorer Sport wheel and tire specifications:
- Wheel size: 20" x 9" with 44mm offset (with 25mm spacer - effective offset of 19mm)
- Color: Contrast cut black with silver
- Centerbore size: 63.4mm
- Tire size: Hankook Optimo H426 255/50-R20
- Wheel and tire combination weight: ~72lbs.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSimHfjBUxwMCC0E_VpMdMK6VTvudDWSSxdHtOBvj-mpzte_LkxmfZHmEx9tHREdnu44zLN9em0VGKaXCtR5MvEPIhdzggEy3HQRNajjDqiZZ_BQkAdN5PyebdJ7Zz612H7nzK83amlGgZZh3lDT11uWd_oaVfHTMV2bl8X3_Ie_Owj8mu0zcFnLv8Gcc8HKs?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I ended up picking some Volk Racing TE-37 Ultra (http://'https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=TE37ULTRA') wheels as they are some of the lightest 20" wheels on the market. And instead of using spacers, I decided to put some additional offset to make up for the wider stance I was looking for.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mw5PqB20uC3zSZtO8ZgXYXMPtBEIvNlx2L4pMcB3dLtnqi1txUSo6gIXAZNlj1WYIOm-8O6fqYD0L14qdFWhsNtmlAgWJACDgr8mWQ_cF1H8GvtF5wK3vy7qgFnDj8HZM8pGoXJb9QjrzS6txZJFL8NCWRFZDz6C_xSa07IhS-bpoRIca-I7eOCQpqlG3DJ4I?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Volk Racing TE-37 Ultra wheel and tire specifications:
- Wheel size: 20" x 10" with 30mm offset (with 6mm spacer - effective offset of 24mm)
- Color: Dark bronze
- Hub bore size: 73mm
- Tire size: Hankook Ventus ST RH06 275/45-R20
- Wheel and tire combination weight: ~58lbs.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPbFCUDJl7w7pDPGC6z8bKZpfUKQ-DHdgoiNhAuG4lEVfFz2MVduBrI9Beg1LlI4fdERqmSndU4kX6jiyB48Jf90oYlF8GolEJxOTQuG2mn8DomUwirjPH_iK6qNEj93TXuiuy6cyfQzckC9pLurOBy1pyOJD1lialnxafCjKf3oWJmiHgyZ7zWzesQR1P67f?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I picked everything up from Vivid Racing (http://'http://www.vividracing.com'). It would take a few weeks to get as the wheels had to come directly from Japan. I also ordered some TPMS sensors from them so that I could mount the new stuff and be rolling, and leave the OEM wheels as is, in case I wanted to throw them on for something.
Got some goodies!!!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhUYOkow67vUYRz3iz9wzwWI6zM17mvo6YGNHmfN1TAQzVQ_ZSRI-NhRVhPx1YDUvtcN_viDNE10xdJlY-yDlQFXRUP_GTq8L8mJjhPesxxaONe5Psqat2yK2_FnnhQWykiYB2tUI6Bz0vy-hwDRdcX3qHs0y1Y6LiRE450agyzHCO0hmgOJxJYn0vNSv71aC?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOWb33Z8k9_-R2I3cs0owxGommaZ7IIXP6LgU-z1C5ACeCDo2JtL6hGS_BJnl2GMSypEscLjx28d_uo5G8g0vbkuGdgxy-U_oHZWlkvUrPVmBaJdiTeYrhEsv1PJV2sqggsqQjT3R7Lomn-9Yz-xdZEcAUbalmE8F-rY3TIlCdxo4NBj65IkPBfn5-aH5Hi9W?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Couldn't wait to mock them up, LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mU61kWcbpns9Gs4u4UDyRTvsAMFy97nlSCacNtHO3NKUyWfq0y6E_dUzfokcXKLegxbtUQk9UDrk3mtSk7aDA5p24LIbb1JsaP-UFX0HhEvtcJ79qAauZN7wWpJboMirR8CvrvV6NOAaQCXjddhQDIdEh3S5si4ZJBpGjBY6PgTYe0amJHIXIlaROpDgVJWik?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It's very important when getting aftermarket wheels that you don't forget the hub centering. In this case, Vivid provided the centering rings free of charge. But if you need to get yourself some, they aren't usually very expensive. You just need to find out your OEM centerbore and aftermarket hub sizes.
Lot's of OEM information is here: Wheel-Size (http://'https://www.wheel-size.com/'). Just do a search on your make and model and it will show lots of information for the OEM wheels that came with your vehicle.
Wheel weight:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mX-Z5Fxz2EQNLfFR8VVJXdDuGj0i7PglesoHBzjEiOeD0UZ22vMvAwIktTuXHS23gMVaqOjt00CUXuJ1FPE2JGgd77NLPDj2Fx6bpUl_JksT11sIO1sNiemzdkPP9UxM_BmuYnXkKntJVTkDtmdWdy1G7J_R792cYFtOc4xVIbpth6FPJRqM9eIluUUBAAwwF?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Tire weight:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6crVojkzg-SnpXQNxPI7OfTn7SYftBCX3bBmNGVLGTf2IePu2pL55QGZHPktKEVzzvO6ioI6OXX8rQai9zb0smYvj8hy7PnXM8EaMpzYpnQVCTXS7tgsM2b0_HYjf8Ae67ne8czLoqbDS6WBqPLjzjOFbDLzSFPE7zksxbxfMN-Di5IZchz1kfsJc7RFUBkk?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Comparing tires:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDtVZ8spkDGb1mokdqgmX9u31pE3XSg3ASw34u3gR8vo8jdp0MySQa7BYgt1wGIX1uwx21lh5dK8dbSiXHIbJL7l_45B-g-CohKz6y7l0ZHHq-ChDrv8BgtKw6tLs21vyxny863G38hPG395OGlOZ6ygQW6xabawGQ7eXowhkG3CksCWkrsL4GEixLyKavUpS?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Yeah, they are the real deal...LOL.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVczBRvgk98Jxoy9ADbrv_-NIzR_2-CQUTHnj8c2JG6TMc6WXTUK3Z2Ssq8wwTikmXxW5r6rioyb89ZR6qWQRrB1EdhfoInFzaIz1SstCqfaRK4n_jE8RvYZ2rFx_AxDHgKeNfq6Fe5uTO86_0Flm8TIjKM00aSLuhHaIti0_YJbyH4JkOs1jPIx3LmEWWytl?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
When I finally got the wheels mounted, in all honesty, I was still a bit dissatisfied with the offset. Loved the wheels, just didn't get the "stance" I was after. So I ended up having some 6mm spacers custom made by Motorsport Tech (http://'https://www.motorsport-tech.com/'). I had them have those spacers include the hub centering ring machined as part of the body of the spacer. That made the installation of the hub centering rings unnecessary. I took them to a local anodizer and they hard-anodized them black so that they wouldn't be easily seen.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0HIth6sn5e4PoIQCB8DYGEpcOr_VP1xFqdt2pMIel5vbmOAmHZj6iIUF7TWTZebJymeTwoUFsetGTvHfLN3vYA3PZsJdQqRlNPi4gRXRM_itnTErxY6B_Hxy7hJUFzJFSKn1_fbMrS5eO9hdwvyCd0MZvP6WNAZrmDYjeURc0TrhUQsa6RGzoOdkSDNRqL7c?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mK1LwND630LJxRS2PFXiIKK8cfnlwJI9I_2jpMhgl_dBwloPUM2GjVzWTaHkIeU9sXCKBSOir-5BzdC6-ZnLTug694peegJgADWzR7ZlVIB-61wzmiuSkGDeTrNNlCSBlLbPxg9j6-GqO_srnxib18tingXpx4yxlYNC1aJwzQINciPBPSiUr6cNsqf3Jcb3B?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
A few months later, I ended up putting some Tire Stickers (http://'https://www.tirestickers.com/') on as I was liking how they looked on other cars. I was apprehensive at first, but it ended up growing on me:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mE61LW0ItJ63U2gg9NjBBZkCyfn40ua1_mLpbMOjCzzzm427MtJRAqbYK2_4NrMd3CBMQRhvVimOEF-PXuY2lvlzG1YfBqHCIekjy-jEP0dCsrk5j0kGeKoC8l4nYPnM55XIZ3pQCoiXW3bdxtXrjjGWS03Z1yqhb6LlxXfPHydfECyr2igDrk8B7O6orB8C9?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(photo courtesy of AutoHoffs (http://'https://www.instagram.com/autohoffs/'))
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~104.0 lbs
Improve Direct Airflow To Airbox
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10734.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10734.0.html)
So when I pulled off that piece of plastic that covers about 15% of the stock IC behind the front grille, I started thinking about the flow of air into the airbox. I noticed that the opening doesn't get direct flow. It comes in from behind the front grille indirectly. I'm sure Ford does this in order to keep debris and water from entering directly into the airbox.
I thought maybe I can get just a bit more air if I gave it more of a "ram air" effect. After all, the SHO and F150 have this coming into the airbox more directly anyway.
So as I had the front grille and bumper off for some other project I was attempting, I decided to tackle this at the same time.
Although it's possible to do this without removing the bumper (or so I've heard), it's tough to reach some of the hardware. As I had the bumper off, it was a breeze to get the grille separated. Now the grille is actually three pieces on top of each other in the Sport. On the outside, you have the three horizontal "bars", then underneath that is the plastic "mesh" layer, and beneath that is the main barrier piece. This was the piece that needed trimming.
There are a lot of small clips that hold these various levels together. I didn't get a photo of it, but what worked liked a charm without breaking these tabs was some plumbers tape I cut into tiny squares and just wedged those into each clip. Once I had all them wedged, the pieces just fell apart super easy. Best part...nothing broke.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSvGNE2HTwG6LdYnKG1vBFlP3j7-Ge5Ksljmj2BCiGwmlSvk-ohY2_AyWL-LVBo7x-mAti_buAz1FkR12w3boRHCYrVR69IAfINO831-VBtzOoz0jYFmPUOF5fHHFzkIKP4RRNw6E5k7jX1IPHTqJarKPsoxRtLjXYWGW0hbtQh1LP2-zSOKdIEv0xKEQ74Jh?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I wish I would've taken a picture of it, but apologies. Maybe when I take the grille off again, I will update this post to show it.
Anyway, here's a pic with the bumper and grille off. You can see the opening for the airbox...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFscjUafHHY53kR2_GMzgbHr3iLoOpLEHA1cvWOQ6rAyg9gBMJvFPMOA73YUryvu_dR55lxA6sG26TVIr-iOQHLRpO4157o_K9MBx3lPZaxPP4zhgfCZLgWqb8cquS-bqBiunR8MRrWKgjIt8CGINtmWqJlNF-3PiGFRtgyZtBA4kwiRiKgLC8L8R9B_-VHJw?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQMaqodwHBWhc8-KwSCvRUz9-HdsHO1oyuWMG7W6FWahsyycub-NWC2XnPTtbIgBf5s064O57wMb0svGRdBmjp1a4vxSVqbL90ZpHKZSOIREIUv2k7c6bCsQmyAjkbnkWPzuVX65ZxvexIHYf2Z3osYcWej5UM5K5U1tmondmGMZ0siCM4bmH_HkKkciRXnMI?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Here's the inner barrier piece that needs trimming:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mj7trnxDziHO9BI7193CzojPjdlGRqoWv1gfEP9gi4jUbLlhqewXcaJgjV7YQHpKrXU7TSdKdjhy44lat7KgQcnFOMptdpeO5pN1jKTgg7oToKueAwJ3cMEX2eOSpXI2Ox1UxZJLpajaliFJmI3SohrXhU8GOKZ_J5ZSmg9lzUwx2ySVoFNbQrCllG-2GRqjv?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
I took it off and on a few times to get the exact shape and opening size I was looking for. Here you see the final hole size I was happy with:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZ67rKREmYu0KAmfie9MmqCQYLkbjvfvwiKg6mNpDrSzDZt9Ssr57peqLCH7jefwZgZScQ8TFsC2l0uGRPnwgE4QrAC3WM2Y_5VsiOOFTYxowgFbKah0OdkMMmRdTx2p-RehkhrRxmPkHIa8hQfcOCeV4h31ob_Svq6ESFuCkzpAOsDL80QOMJbAgaFO3mHPE?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Mesh layer over it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkKWfb59deFNhicl5IigcyQURwJuS_IaCW6casnm_xaaStfKrXf0qMKJYCdoGP2jQIq1fxMudYxIKOCgUSPsXql0lSpFaWh9-YoMyIVop5IlxXJviuPzZ2H3Nu-YLhZ9U1B0JFI0gnPpM0Ypn855UhOISd0-TkVNZq7PZXDEfbIuKks7mZVNWqNmRqhpz-ryF?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
And finally, the three "bars" mocked up onto it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miJ0b4ZFOZohLa3Pq-G6xi-1Quo4eR4m0uQqzGTchkWRAlWBJJMEyKMrsv1wGETi2PzWgJP9OI0URzlklDjiTdM8H7BYQHe5Zvj3_D5CGCL99IVRprcOFC-ty0BpoeqRWWeYIMAnP1Lj6tjGJV1YwqC2VoJm_JxorSfeCAYtu3XLBesPfQSSM3eelF1JwniXC?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
As you can see, it's very well hidden and is virtually unnoticeable:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msiyTHuORHkqTie9LnMVvbCS7_If8NkJt90pQkoX-JLyHcuPs4bSMTtOzHSTxn0S2RgnGb9EZ8ECRhlZ8zV8NPqH6_zk0seaA1FAOeIQXhNm8mWIDbbB5mEk4TOCBpa0NwXZzwadI6F3WTLaLeLnIxi5bhAX4MRH2E1o1GWfEnhNCeQtDXFiNe7o_HAXjBl5L?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAC-v0DuIg_pREfidLmi0G6x9-Mxlcqmkvigca3EDofe-7yQhEe-hck7ylceGs_7F-HUdLGrJjR944yxQ4FTiZEB_NCrUNskveGkEtv7zZaa6uMjDEZ7YXtMbGPtPo3qAq5kd8ZotuutOS3pNChB6_snub2mkeEuAohM1E-Ik9f7dkhEQJbquo_rPW1Hpdots?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Now, how much better flow is it, you ask? I can't really say, tbh. It's kind of a small mod that may or may not help out some, but the logic is sound, so I'm going with that, LOL.
Of course, this may not be for everyone; however, it's been 2 years with no detrimental effects nor have I gotten anything significant into the airbox. I've driven in rain as well as having gone through multiple car washes throughout the years. So, I'd say it was a decent modification since I had the bumper off anyway.
Weight Reduction: Lithium Ion BatteryOne of the heavier components of the engine bay I felt could be improved upon was the actual battery. I learned from my Harley-Davidson build, that AntiGravity made some pretty high quality, lightweight lithium batteries. I started researching and turns out, although they seem to have the motorcycle industry taken care of, it's Braille (http://'https://braillebattery.com/') that leads the way in the automotive world.
I had used a Braille AGM battery back in my Evo days and really liked it. I looked up their new lithium ion stuff and it was impressive. I had to make sure I had at least the same amount of cranking amps, as well as a decent amp-hours rating. Called Braille up and the Intensity i25x was the ticket. Their Intensity (http://'https://braillebattery.com/collections/intensity') line of batteries is the go to line for direct drop-in replacements. They sent me free Li-Ion charger with it as well. Don't get me wrong, this stuff is pricey, but it's miles ahead of current battery technology and the charger is high quality as well.
OEM battery is a Group 65 and this is a Group 25. OEM battery is rated at 810 CA and 650 CCA, whereas the Braille battery is rated at 1250 PCA, different measuring method, but needless to say it's WAY more powerful. However, reserve capacity for OEM is 130Ah versus the Braille battery at 75Ah. Less, but I don't ever have the key on for extended periods of time without the vehicle running, nor do I have a high powered stereo.
Stock battery:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mji1xYC3QdnnN5ewCWtoUJ9bAHc49DxpauL2lHBQ_pTizi0sXCvCWGTM-wvBYP-fqBRyck5SmwmVlxoBHoPpQ_dXVpvHPBxsKw5q-2IvKYgzvv9g5LN_la3AtDpo05PJRlaIduzlqRJ1zlZtp2Li81HbDJBN7IUaln7KoNp_v-I0pTXF3jD7TvOwe6skcg2z2?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Here's the weight difference between the two:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJY6o_NjNLgflndOTb09W1m2dRudS07qKUxbpRgPBQZDo633a3iMpHTTc2u58QTQhedVkIJRihJCeKkWgPtIZjW1CUIbuXFW9sloRvuqIpPDFMr7FQgxJUYJ7j4FRPfKX7NSSkjmRyKnmSBI48xmALgAQ6iHNIuOdxM8EQ1nG-m7nmiPdCd4MjT7sWAdN8GOz?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Saved ~28lbs...very nice.
So the battery was similar in size, but not exactly. It was a bit taller and unfortunately, the battery hold down wouldn't work, it was about an inch too short (insert joke here)...so how to hold it down? Well, I decided to extend the OEM rods in order to be able re-use the stock hold down. First thing was, figure out thread pitch of the existing threaded rods:
Then get some threaded rod to match and some sort of coupling nut or threaded standoff. Found what I needed at McMaster (http://'https://www.mcmaster.com/') (damn I love that place...).
Everything is stainless steel, as usual:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m70prqjR_Ryiw8CUVGrE2HYYI3t9Zxp9GF3ln7S9q8_NOqMlFkC8zaIebNSHUaWKCwC0F9FsbQHzgsm8Iz7etiIYkCwovm2Lt6QMRpmbZubRN0_v8Kr31s8UCrH1HMt5G8UggBNNBcl1eusxAGqi-GdNNvk09pCoKDv95eK5lnWaEG7BJGWYxTbT4EY1_1CaZ?width=975&height=579&cropmode=none)
Measured and cut down the existing rods:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5ns6Y3TciVh_diVuOB8zo6uTur0FzkRALfqUwtIrRVJekUH5PLJ49B8OmuHHYYhXrlUXqaWCRvP9YnJCwnW7Lk9bgFRzgN0hwOBTak4K_lIWIr39tsRyOo3uuCs10GRZRfwYexnIazXZ3TT54d6J5_mufTuTDtqLahFliF-eF_B0bieVrsVTTZFGRkeSZAd7?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Used a metric M6-1mm die to thread the unthreaded portion of the OEM rods:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZYVrlqAZ6hR6nD9YM5JySK2Rw41ThUD62BgwwRly3R4jgcfuAneJXoY1QbF7KA_CujA0nTGqQHSXZWRIVgVuVSP2dmWaHWL2Hv6n09QInyfG0k6rGhCvQ9YyIqK4HI3RokRvq5AgAANq3ay0BxiG-uUJu_EZMAGUliXx6dF43H_hAmXfnUKbDCJLPZSD9FuQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Then just installed the standoffs about midway down and installed the new threaded portion into the upper half. I used red loctite on these parts as I don't ever expect to need to separate them:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miaS2quq-QLXW9UMX2JDt5i19jW3x9-yX8KM5ONlzrWt0xJnksir_ZQ3Az33vnsP4Tux_US_S0Tco0x5bPNkRFF_CvbVCsMHIJougDPSuknnyqy5lCjlcnhEVQBph2cLFWIn-Xg4nJFTmOjFuWMRxH2WfCKeMeyG2bgG2hu7PN6eSizdr6muuupU16Iv5FBL5?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
The portion where the terminals are on the Braille battery aren't 100% flush with the top of the body, making the battery management system not completely seated all the way down, but was still enough:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mpjjwBsAsPXM_LmULxduTvdO2aNI-wX26NPydZV2MxFaRu1KvZcrL8CEPqM2G8IEEY1HdNVJnpcCdgD7cHY-nK52-3Hzna9V6rZTcWD6iN8LEP7nRRAXzGn-Y8CZmNI9NhZmkoZPiMkv-Y6ojWXOq-vUjSVQ6nP9AkUjJ4xEwEOGM_oGWOSOPPJxKXrjkYDSN?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVPQBsIRovi7LIOZmK9rWjUW6N1DpqqG3lZURB0rG0DhvpdRiKjjoaLOUWYH3EIaWzqNPkq_28r8MPX6w_bAvPZ7VfdqwJZs1sogQpWgPjLChs2sTCZuAxcPWPNC-zpDUQJG_wADOoo4ythNUUKA8t3N_tgN1grMkeQxX8m353o-f2_-RX002zKQS9z6njXKG?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Viola, finished product:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBAOubq_TyQJhZhrYv_8RgvPkJTJIKOubZYS6rVzaGhvw7FJ4rTVayUxFg5dT8DZ-LG2GCeCovAzilpz_bSg2jsZCICvVmoEZfy2MyzfW4WrxhOr12dyg4vFpVDc8iKpu-qppIMx_4i9p1RNwYNKXsYmBUS_m20I-tCuDMUA9nk1xmq-FnlyxHSsKrjnErYfT?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This thing cranks the starter with some serious...vigor! LOL. Very noticeable difference in cranking, night and day difference
As for longevity, well, it lives on a trickle charger when not being driven so that helps. I've no issues for the year that it's been on the vehicle. It must be noted that is NOT a deep cycle battery and is not ideal for those that are interested in extensive audio system modifications (or hydraulic suspension, LOL). It will not perform well in those applications.
EDIT: The negative battery terminal being at an angle like in the previous photo always bothered me. Because the terminal post sat slightly lower than the top of the battery, if I were to put the actual terminal straight, the tightening nut would hit the battery top, not allowing it to seat properly. After first seeing if an aftermarket terminal would solve this issue, I took a look at the OEM one and noticed it can be disassembled. That was an easy fix, just disassemble t and switch sides:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mipC-ahZZ3B22chSCuwdsH89n5C_KJ0JzJqWenYPYCn380KzQvPRH_nNEHpW1zzQa8huLl607BXY-EyhA1NJI8hIpm3XO1c-My_CfAa5QqJWyCLQzy8kmCzmR12f8Swrv_cXJcMCl_NtRO6Trf7YqHaBOMZvGXQHb00UdidrPrjy8ZbzaUF1dKCy90EdBXTNd?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And final install appearance:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAUku3vruVhkqu6a7-yK1BeIu3I9SqoFCEUbs1fbO3qc3caHkCiEPquhdlKsYwo3mL-XJqUoP-XjM9JUZz__SgnVYTEbkCLX1vwqL79IBwqJaFwV3tqELT3XmlQ52b2QxeqHhaRbfWjTySqEFsnx7Klzhkl_hKqy6Yrw95KRdZEYVan1_5vjEbVtNivm1lSWq?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~132.0 lbs
Weight Reduction: 3rd Row Seat DeleteIn my quest to get ever more lightweight, I decided to ditch the folding 3rd row seats. I never once used them while owning the vehicle and thought I could actually make more room (vertically) by removing the deck. I ended up using these write-ups as a starting point, so much respect goes to @jrgoffin and @MikeCallery of the Explorer Forums for them:
- https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/explorer-3rd-row-delete-police-package-install.419317/ (https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/explorer-3rd-row-delete-police-package-install.419317/)
- https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/removing-3rd-row-seats-installing-cross-brace.315441/ (https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/removing-3rd-row-seats-installing-cross-brace.315441/)
It was extremely helpful. Early on in my desire to remove those seats, I hadn't been aware of the structural cross-member that is integral to the rigidity of the body the 3rd rows seats use. It would need to come out if I wanted the seats out...but how do I retain structural integrity? Well, after more research, turns out the x-brace from a PIU addresses that concern. I won't go into re-hashing all the steps written by @jrgoffin and @MikeCallery, but because I only care about weight reduction, I simply used the x-brace and not the rest of the PIU replacement decking or foam inserts.
I also wanted to integrate the fluid tank for my methanol kit into the setup, so this was a parallel project.
Part-way through removal:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mM6tsUwwns7plt5KEXhJ3EWSW1g7XigOf8Jcp419pZUMCl2kS4OHOFBQD_wcbJu9qrqFLphSS7S92MA2Cg7tY35dxFBs2v0hKGS2oDxwbeiVDS18G6eLpI6fzYCT9muG8_i2gdh29skscFAhSYtphMbFLKg0djo0dUMjPlEDG22y0CBAevjRNKwJjaENSZ9Vk?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Since I'm not going to have 3rd row seats anymore, no need for the Power Fold Seat Module (PFSM), this thing comes out, no issues with it removed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2RK90cINS8o8Q355S8rV6oOPMK_9a6PtB07IXNFJrAh39saHxvNohRANYDr61LFMVswTpfS_csCRaMIqEwxc5nlNYqOSY08DFbdnNfcg8DnSLs0s98PN-3G_NMlqxHIPH6Qzr2lrZ0KguLGJiRtp5Tfb-JqL9gj6knUNaVbYz_OrpcQHRV7d2tjl08KteaNf?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And to clean up the install, the wire harness can be disconnected farther back as there are some connections that are no longer needed.
Also coming out was the 3rd row seatbelts. Not really necessary, but I wasn't going to half-ass the job. One dilemma was, when the belts come out, the slot that it comes out of in the rear plastic exposes the bare metal underneath. It would bug me...so I covered it as well with some foam I had laying around:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZgtuZFIGC3ON63G_gkyGbgVdls4UFh7EnuRhPkQxJ9BqvtOaPRatJ1YGi_TIwfn3k77U0DuyKIL_eD0v0gFpyYW26in_HAu3FlCmHrWnQpQYpXZK_JPL7J0vHJV470cLwFKctLgIhKykQSi8o_o-I5Gg1XGdyyKfkRp5hZW_1ZVWNzUjalEhwmV9M21LfgN5?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And here is everything I pulled out of the car in a pile. All this weighed 108lbs, a pretty significant weight reduction:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moxOijPTouVxNxMqKxeM3F_FQM_4NHvtT2Uuwrk_aM---IdpEy37-zCPSVbuhjjI9d6foIhU4e9JonjOLVufhnln67gH5k7r-wXyPWKXWbGKa5DNWu6mjDWm0MBuy77ZJur9fH1GfVHvSoWGJeqY-OZS9JE-V_9ews-kNnimIdnZbqL6Qy3jF9JeYEuGOD5W0?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The x-brace comes in raw metal. It's usually hidden under a deck, so no normal reason to beautify it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mm_5iiBfLEEMvNEELgsdJ1zMMGohMUONfdZzo2-V2D-xGckA7kDW-fLcbnk78aemc_FBc2q04IX3drv7DMDRb4PCtW5JlY39878z8bM7kk_nT4XHv4_78asCqVSQjet-2P-4P80NFva9bTytiUz083qxZa2k9NJPtPr4TPvA7LzB4EYwAUjxM95oiqpluBQBL?width=1024&height=483&cropmode=none)
But since I was going to leave it exposed, I decided I was going to powdercoat it. However, before I get to that, I needed to figure a way to mount the bracket for the 10L methanol tank (http://'http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-690s-new-10l-single-tank-with-bracket-internally-baffled-drilled/') that Aquamist (http://'http://www.aquamist-direct.com/') offers:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mbJZMgmVY0NA6BWn7uCjasDqG9VBvHUE3COLii3EgCLDkdQJ1jrdvGij4CUvXLaQzbuBZKywjmw8C0TwOSphsQzSLpN7dY2maGJg-Ygc04N8iBmL0VIvz9N8uhQ_CkWm45soWC5_A3iIHKx0USx5DwQvuHlPKt2nznqjbETOfPFR8yjaryG_jZxrtlQezqFb_?width=683&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mt2KZr5LYk8AxgwnQcgPNdUb5aQv64cmg9HyfgJq-OmWpnMc10GQyVJNeOMqDIaVHi3j5-4W0y2v9bdqNEu9ziM_Ds8NdO2_b2xspGHDiy_249jnoCOfRiAg-00atGrHnpSUYQs91ufu-YkGDMCybLlhqywjKPmDHRLbuwVq__RlROECd-euNbM8uwA6lgpZO?width=600&height=900&cropmode=none)
Here's that bracket sandblasted:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGkSqxQF40tsUsG-z4YKulukWZCLI1QPk27anX_5IzbYKUM8xwiVWn3D7dqNLyVcx9XpSMcBJ_vqUQvqUQELoFcaT71-1eIpAVMvB7rNaZReTklMltsKIm27jGl9b6ksbCAC_eOejRWHc4N8ASar85LhCKAxobAeBbDGVzCXZJtFCC0bIeP-TpElI7Ocw6p9E?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is what I was going to weld to the x-brace:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIGXjpYEeeV64anYuiH1QS9az2MO8PTcqrEt9t86bSzC2g7hLP5cp2GG6fQib4a34f6-mix_Pxf1FpDMgttoFWLtm83ljJMYvl9VKZHld3tU5VuML0-cbZ2vcK3dzT5ptzCpebHCwcv12sySHcasT94GW8oDW3nBzU7YCbnQQqMFEx-V6lHOHO9v1yYN6DaOc?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And here is the bracket bolted to that piece before I weld it to the x-brace:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0StSAZVufas9qVhbP6Ez7hor0P7s6IxPowa4Ag1C5d1B_iEBq5NHWqiHuN-kuQkwCdMGDJogwVKdqZyNmesmhdQWPVc5e0JcbYfXQAZTYJNaRaNlkY7Hl98AIvukE-ZMQtOnFw7Z45l4bF0QF5PpfaSWBvm2RKW5AagHtlFfdptrsVOeSr43KlIQ7TkfjzaG?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I didn't get a photo of the piece welded on, but here is the finished gloss powdercoated x-brace ready for mounting:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7yXv4ROPh1wKXk-21Cmmo9YPyK5BLfcJfRg8BordzhbAsop0yxb4r1SbyG0F6JcWTAFNPMrXagZ6eDzIZMI-SHTh4KsCALs7ynObVEoDoLSEJl5eR7lazeRbCzxcJrYX4Gj1BzWuRBrYMudPSmXoOInbFNGb6bMmZFcaxE8Us9kpHBJVIuld2OcIJ2obr_Ng?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the bracket with the methanol pump installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4ScxSpCrCLh8dW3a4W9c3JlILXfw8OXCRVGlWGAU2tbv1rTyhygbt7gfX7CtY35OBR5mf4EpxiTHHE-WvaN_ztOJIKM3W7QjtkCjzmO6BC0eveHsmB21D_K4kmECJX34iyfu7UfBp4f6XvAn2FzUTt7ePMGmmSh_0KcEdfupDEg6XQbneOuTUkFd31F0lqzQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRr4H0uhfiHfIWRlqNAYOpReX5YSU-Ds4fYNeVDdOy5sz9qX4tA32n6uyk5-RymNGkulF9XM7kXMyq8sONEMRWoAXsFO5ERqhc2Oqopu1oPlKHU8dvDdo_ZiQoHCvkJke15Vk-j_5wJuN_8tIb4FyZj55I3itKQyGOFAK93o6FlsG3PUrqH6xapWRY8hT88Vy?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Finished rear area installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mWimT_H4msqJ5_xjJeJ_yzswFLDGbeqPewTSsGGwzxlZpTlwttP0M_qRoGb8NLtqTftQBGt0vaBYHoZJhxRDYFOtN412a_XkjpzkOQHFAzo9ZnBIo4WDLRm1jfBJ4LtTP_SWisOtzRTGd5fXUVHwMsqev_wiO0GB0BcJRus6szkkc9qyZozFuCSVMun-RLBO4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
All that stuff I put back in the rear area came to a weight of 18lbs. So, at the end of the day, I still saved ~90lbs on this modification. And I love how much more room there is...
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~222.0 lbs
Stock Sony Speaker Upgrade
Did a stock speaker upgrade in my Sport with the Sony Premium Sound System. Simply upgraded speakers, using stock amp. Not the best "write-up" as it's mostly pix, but hopefully it will be a decent jumping off point for those interested in doing more. I just wanted a slightly better system as all my focus is on the performance (I'm not an audiophile, so my interest in this area is minimal). I left the stock center dash speaker alone, didn't feel like taking apart the dash, lol. Hope the pix help folks out:
Subwoofer is a Kicker CompRT 8" 2ohm DVC (http://'https://www.kicker.com/comp-rt-8-2-ohm-subwoofer'):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFUDZG1_InxNjckSALgpwykW8Sex_fcOmrWaJAe73hhqieNJOmTT3yINzkBjw8PYTDT-hQ-RxiSk-5XNIdZA2D2NdGp34zbyQdKcNC5bDtUmvZfuuG5JwWBUXlHlTtxGf3f_IpVo2ubVNP--4BcD6VxARFuQCTf6S2Rf0tQC0A52HjwLD9ABnz9utzZ0Tow0C?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mTNmaHyi5Y21mABIsadnNWcOqFrvEuBEl4O90DyxGjaY1yjJdBC_q8pqV4sUFUwaDv9wcEejBqQ3LVkfl_0_T_qulnjq2xA7FKfGCou4lEPuUTidIGIY1KbbHH6qdMPVOk_dFCFNSjZmtke1VteUYyQv_OrycJk69bcj0IwbSAaX7_8_6jmTxmlFxP4h4N_8W?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Added some subwoofer box stuffing since I had some laying around and it usually helps some:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZXit2VmQ4xNoTwR3K2EnTd4MdZyA9DoIE_Qiq11GQsd7rbaG9UpLv6w5yMySJD2knHwlTUtqNTYPIzOn9eVO7EWtQGVQPTUSSZoDC69G8Az3uMpZg9SVuim0qxX3DL-Z1Dbi49SeMsqIKjewVq74oROFNNk163Qpj9IE0Age_usLaCkfOiUy8caQyP10735K?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muh_TU20fu2exHVphtwne_zwD_Yec2hBOL4ypoVRuEvU3zUQ7TUQKrx3F7iQwIfnoAIOz9D8FIrEYFR3VEsMiEWxgNmvmK1HEM1PhrVEeAgGl06Pf2IQTj4LQ2jtPSbVJC5Lxi7tI0js1HMbbeOdsdjiv8iGcbc29_9E1bO7Q8VE96wAO_97oRD9OUdl3blHy?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3S-K5GueQWuNORnsthK5rCKaFu2lwNBeqwNeF5E2jLW2ye7CAF6gAW0i0UIpBvuOSFzjjzDgh7FCRGItJwPy5P1s3wAvUJLHpqXPaNrCLlHnBOtnJzfvIoI1jPPDPI8VzTUGjFjxq0iXF76DjU0V1f1NL24TuRn23DBaWqvDUi5IMmZXpSKEQ7nBpsiBgFkA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Rear hatch area "D" pillar, I changed to some Kicker 3.5" KSC350 (http://'https://www.kicker.com/47KSC350'), ohm value is different as I could not find the speaker size with that ohm value (IIRC it is 6ohm), so it's effecting the output, but it's negligible:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRllN_SSBHVJtkQNuLW-sqtl5QyOjkxuBIHDISh3n9Mxi1LePdPs08P7M407S6L28F9fiYBWTNqJ6UdUS3gCyxA8N1fmaFfdPrP2n2Vg8t2QcKHr5PJNwRKlthlkKcF7LvFc40JV3Rr0PFE2yhGyiN4Ql--Snw7Iwxz1qlaNQYqgLusbstVwepT7HpkD8e8zL?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4cniLQqIe7KHZ4XbHbNyqawr_LDf3zLpRIGWFVSnuGAaI2EaZ1GrwE4jmezV5AaljSMTJPC0_lR7OFUlsK4a11V3D4AFDVBq1S1KVyEpEf9Ow9e-pgdvwowEEs5T_PBxf4fYr2MWcBI5ywDjWlqjHXoEHQL_Pevdvtvpe0F42atVA-0B306GnBYL5hbscHdB?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mT3LCLPjUq5P1Ifzep4OerfW2m3fNdwBCT1Zu7IJ0fH8kQEi9HpdYjh9QW-c7b154JvsUJNc0yfcrHp03onztrDYJYgZ7mlrQiyVWjLKsZCpf7rE45S6U_2ZG3Bzx0yH9xP_8W9ihbVtgjOlnV0L-TZk_x010XzdAqSXjW2YfCyK2Z8bAup264qQHLVuaVn9C?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMLVzuq800sGoQibuwvV8SdKFoxbF3QDcuj1sCSPfGrGphM-NUDNKIYkiGq40CUc5ckqniDrLZr-pJ0PWvOm73kKoIa8Y4QlWs-DWh3G0DQOprTx1AG_jTOQ0iZOzwyxRD7Saqha7dK37S6fShDdLQf1k6gwa2_OB3hpq64xzKF8Oze3-XDBiEJrpC4Mj9Cgs?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mh9mz1RzaHCnYWtxg0vaslMSuqp_5dn5TW41kPCvjEgYnat4tkdoSTpmx3y0ZRRZnBqpF0XyrJxubH84ZBrkkOhqu6u-zZUSF6DO611pQrHSTD6FsFVgfKlVuBQJnPfzvgh0ixRzZJqMYuIi8aD9AdTjJ9p6aCDXYMpBpQ61grTS9XTuxT3mx2x7Y6PlqEGPJ?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Because I didn't want the full frequencies getting pushed to these speakers, I removed the capacitor off the OEM speakers and added them to the Kickers:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mR3CBQ1KSjJ80fKHLh3lva0D7OtjUVdUMxcW9S761gC7JeAlclHtP6KaaePzq-L_FVrtfvF0DbQ6Uy5yUhyyYiTm7-w4QhOmUfmu71z_5Y4NhshvqQjeQspeQrC0s95l-W3CjpfexGAKEXdIz1TXbv8XZH0U__rBMfE7DCsENHoKyi0j33sd8jH_YEO22L0dR?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZgtuZFIGC3ON63G_gkyGbgVdls4UFh7EnuRhPkQxJ9BqvtOaPRatJ1YGi_TIwfn3k77U0DuyKIL_eD0v0gFpyYW26in_HAu3FlCmHrWnQpQYpXZK_JPL7J0vHJV470cLwFKctLgIhKykQSi8o_o-I5Gg1XGdyyKfkRp5hZW_1ZVWNzUjalEhwmV9M21LfgN5?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear Doors, installed some Kicker KSC650 6.5" (http://'https://www.kicker.com/47KSC650') coaxial speakers:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mH6qGJDJNvoFTj3yoCcEh_YDDqPd4LAaSL-9tGTDrEhVcZI0yGIJhAUB1goHvdzkM_6E6FOhONpQRidaS0WDpGo7JjWsGh6hYxwXWL8Fh06MOCEJjaycIbxK8sECAxFb80JINld-WVFCX9GJVgp2K7-6rgak4kCwmbmfvy_ksQla1C9WrVqjYJyjo2QzY6eqF?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIEv060hpUnechOp7zhdpX0RaIx5tCg7O_g_1Ot8joxB6-eUgmzAoYAaQDRBRIF0qvTDuNChW3S7_TMdvm7HWbcLbUJBc7OjNNOFREwkbL76OEsQwYP62natGxCzZ3r1wvOTB2JvCJ4_upKKQrlG8vGtm5eSymHPhgcuQqdILBj9dUfq_e6qmq3JgxGQXffuh?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mHmP6q189CsBVguFBWo93F0sKJA2zJTKun3x-JDdXG5wjZuplazu0Ogtsy3rjV8QtmpL3kaqUMLXofcgzmdM5obiIMnMN5B-GQPy3NsJVgmeaLQIBlm0c9J86qbpulhe9s6AcR7ZOCn4mEl64D0HxEPByUNfX7HS35G4oQF9H-vf1TstAMxwe14EbiDyp4kop?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJgwN4tqvQDhCfqJ7424ajRwu4tQf3xkmqyYBbJsqne8u7Ld8HpbtxYGffuRSck09LkiMZj2NNw0aFQS1sdzGfH_ru44r_VLsQ4IU73YDu3EIxcvZDGN1ndrFTu-t9rjFrfuSugrC2hhmgljtbG_yWhcVnFekUR1NXEYcvOnW-5yDjvDsquWLhGoVOoY2JRGT?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I got the rear speaker adapters (http://'http://www.metraonline.com/part/82-5605') from Metra, and the 1/4" foam stripping (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K86HTXF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1') from Amazon:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwX_puw6KvIkM4G-bjy_bZf28MxAjqbhbOl0cmzPVNbbi3kRZoT6nK5sGACp5khe6SIDfOqD6EPqBGKFqCX6aGNdQg8o1D6hf8ihPP75m4vk_K2H3iV15LfuoR6I6I-9vacmnEzqDnSSXPR61mShbwVmc1gfAWnxh67rXWoDiwu9Fc5XxqfUh7kbX09ygjvW4?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mTEg3qH0cNWulUWWdD2N2zNC5DW6ZoAfUEGQxv5ji1gKenv1vPlDvy3viTBsDG7_zccfhkjXITIScJ0RkkPH6S1ARvykUrefjH7MTDCYtBSUHEBAF1-fvYP0lHEpTXx7Uz8m5h9o2V0qkQapzwx6MoXwmq_-djnWhSWrVRhXQvJbqGL3IeViS2fyv0rYLO2e4?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Unfortunately, the adapters that came from Crutchfield weren't deep enough. I had to order some custom MDF adapters from Sound Mechanix (http://'https://soundmekanix.jimdo.com/') to be used in conjunction with the Crutchfield ones to give the necessary depth. Size ordered was 7.5" ID and 11.5" OD in 1" thick MDF:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlP9bj2KxmWIwvsG1LnS9WFH7KsQMCx2BHK-nRs42GzzrF0y3I5yKDX6K-623zf8gTcRlArBT17ChftXUzK5xlkazC_dw6euo5opQlRCeqnx35fdQVUoHw39X5qxTnjpo8Butlh1l_fsitB4vUrfu1OHLD2IClJgGZPrIOvUlHezy6eRUEC7cqBe_la3WHB14?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And the speaker harness adapters (http://'http://www.metraonline.com/part/72-5602') also from Metra:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miiUEmWjouN90Vc_yKMGlZl5lGgls4EhA2RJuRBoL-FrjsPX0own00mGwCqa9VuCUF8wJT8Qveh3tf-xNpBZ94rQ-ynWSS3LIfJhLF8x4Ei77XzfmmWdlF7vg-rl-npY7XbgjgTgXU1J1txg4JzYQ-MbCDpbzdEl_Q0ekPTP3M2L7HoI3tWaaU__Txf6b87Wk?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4maukLxa1cCCe6x_tdeBGvWe2MXnnOgDnlpPQ4v-OCOHzSRBJFaUJ_V2jT08fVr3Ixi-ihF-G6g-PlVJNGKH6KFSZOxtq6L6wOUZ7DUiKW4edG4YkKB5-EcIbSqgWBShGnauhtmVkhGwl7iZIikiqInu32DUX8-GovbFGijyoRim8KeI17G7Q9MCT2mzUld9k6?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4maAtCdleS8igeLfQsNSW7L7Y-7g7pPS-D-gRtr2DvqRJRCAjamxRmppge7qPDolAy5hEYAxhZ63nkkjLufda3DRBab95n5x502gEHUqKt59Re3ieopvhe3BEz7zCkmXTdQ_QCQAlbGOSeaNuRJepTa9fmCMmzvRABMmje0u3-pnu1WUdBXueEI_dFT_FVHtuc?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mp0yzgZHUg27o5jI2P531q2AAVePuu2xF4M2Kl-5nhR2DSHM8yqeB18nwgJUM2PvuqxKHcBnx-gHbZlzyfGPQOyOPN3EEsytxmcSs_BzgEyGv7wG_sssWlJSWsewl0w_j61mzhCbFXS4LErSuMUaF4mJnhpruiwFFtgN1juKqwF0i1UYZtn3PkdE8sfEVHKjE?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4meuc6tsfFZ-A2FQuQ9p3JFnpK3ZTZoyAN0iF8ZY7mCn9UFEcYT71ZqG4TbfwpFXfG2PxwABgqh7bSNDKBbRcs_0Mm5oOGBfcwT7M_eqyFwFQhy_DZgO0yoI_LOnQWRLVXN0841shUMq4sgmjdg3v8qC2JEBjYHYJnkWoYoUn8e_qnaE1VawXRqztBGLJeyTJf?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
For the front door I didn't get any photos of the tweeter install (I was getting impatient and wanted to just get it done, LOL). But it's pretty straight forward, it doesn't come out easy and there is some permanent removal you will be doing but, it is what it is. I made sure to wire it exactly the way it is from the factory and uses the passive crossover that came with the new tweeter. Yes, the ohm value did change so it's likely putting some small additional strain on the factory amp, but it isn't driving low frequencies like a sub. Tweeters were a pair of Kicker KST25 1" (http://'https://www.kicker.com/46KST2504-tweeter') and the 6x9s were some Kicker KSC6930 (http://'https://www.kicker.com/47KSC6930') 3-way coaxial speakers:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDzbiU3iJPYW2STynFXvtO2hFWHmMjJIssrodJExWGlhyk0Cdhbn_qi2pymNNHOw1QnKBEP85N-1lv2YA4EFU-DrAW7d0Jmuly9uAO_bvgkptcC1lEbHvZnoBmP4o44MmNpFXhYQPO-b-Fxy115SfLZac1z-QrVxJaqjyvDQ0tKfELVS0kcpI-EJPWrXQRAqD?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Front speaker adapters (http://'http://www.metraonline.com/part/82-5602') also from Metra:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAoY6DJMH1ArrrYhiwKYwS00WDQ9ZeRtNp3zYFpoOEeEd6mE4sdLumk4ydhLFuBerEmYFVQKzF2cubc8uiBKQqApw7pdR3AS9kJqUazUjTcoob8lxgXcYwD4ZeVA5xBjMiatzmIiZq2NuleJDok4T7DazmsEx2vn5Uo2TpGOWCbtlBVN0m8NC66XACdlGP3GS?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mINDFaFMVgbDFpg3_nJWTZPFH2vq4EmjipaJ16BRsGILF7K87PytbzArNqauqEsxMsoBUzphXY8_qdKwGjOgpjJV81kbcDHeni3QAvqhGZjFgq5yfzni_QLRoGjeJbn-H7nlrm52FUrmii3z3YBUbcq_Y8sRIVdB8wPfZnwQrX4zIDXXG5OleE6bhwgmPZVA9?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
And some wiring diagrams for everybody if needed! Hopefully they are a decent resolution.
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(https://erelkq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mKi4wlTCN0b2252W5Mm_I-DO-9bPrDUk4odrhXiL2y-2muCsmAEXbB6nTlTtSDZXbBnu0OYS5bnq2t9ghOO7W9wOGJ4u3iPhL49GnM9hi4N4sStKGMjagU0bIUk_MiXzV-tEs8-Cul8ePkFCXiWumh5dpXnhO1J_YS15PuLJ9C_m2tujycE3RNs5UtTA5ePC6B3DPNTsz3ogSolAMbVUgJQ?width=2398&height=1071&cropmode=none)
(https://erekkq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mY8gXQGlTfPx13liYKMlaspMJYtTTbFvRPmaqhJ0UW9wZtQLOwb2Xbhs2m_M1OpAeYHH2U4gmP1_Wu31RNYCywEJFndzP_H71c0wMd4D58fGqrI6N74VLQsgAgb2r2KyadUOLg7bUL8q26f5wNbAHcFiys-L0xiUWfLVocTC4i6QIWYe6d5a_N42CcIH6BMvWFSXkEms6WdxschjmsarHmQ?width=2398&height=1071&cropmode=none)
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(https://ereokq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mYfyTRIyYMsvnwR0p-P3GYxa-K-dpNUvwqPm1Y-OoCobFclfrYxhsGHRFGsmgqGXiv727ldBFU7kme6Hkx51SH2obAkizKAx5X8g9kp23PmddU9_8LAq2B5dstzZS1dPjSf0a7UQ_V65fMBCUBEgji16kzSsXtKq3ekz_5Vv1t-xij7Z3D3dJM8jASj2Tat1hlr0YS-hy0h433Z-IdfkLpA?width=2398&height=1071&cropmode=none)
(https://erenkq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mdI-qmb8jpKj6RraLD6pJJtTzZRFHM3Z5SW2aQBe-FbJPfhhaxAtnBckDgjKcO7fuauFfNXay0QEltwXagLkYSXKRcBmYrjW6USWgQLjngxNOirtP8VtISkruGzUEVZl87nU3YCpz3FPd4tLcGtwr73KtWMqDWkPUmciy-5ZCbsChmaU-P1QRWwQZGIst7DHDY4xLva-8NtIrPvsHXXP-Lg?width=2398&height=1071&cropmode=none)
(https://erepkq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mOQfKO6Z6ae58a2O2dho_NjmT-7ltLgOGg3h9DvpH0oO-pAndiBLyrIP2XT_NX_TxWOH22oeKebRFOI0MVczEUZhhgB5U-xmkODeIFYX_EdcaHZpQtwZMrJJ9CF3X38cAovTxN_eiaybblb2EDZjHODMj6ymAtcaVDu74OXV2xJYdZbtFhCSkBgcWhZMAgx31-uemmRl8FwrmeheYXmc2SA?width=2398&height=1071&cropmode=none)
UPR Products Catch Can Installation
Here is my spin, or should I say, variation, on the install for the UPR Products catch can (http://'https://uprproducts.com/15-present-sho-flex-explorer-3-5l-ecoboost-dual-valve-oil-catch-can-plug-n-play/') setup. It's pretty straight forward and I think the product is a very well made item. I did have a few issues that I found annoying, so I decided to make some small changes to an already great product.
One of the issues I had was, the way it was designed to be mounted made the can lean very far over because it was pressed against the wheel well. In the following photos you can see what I'm talking about. The bottom of the can hits that insulation on the wheel well:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtNtLua_1r5rB6L2KZUMW2Uc75510Iu93naxsq8BmDHameBTN6fCGdPgDe28Y9V9AvHF3a1kkeXP7o4iVBN6o5t1D1mAldPqhsoXWOPky7bg2HufJbhG8GkV4cnPnbTaxaeKRBsn2NTgSnCNPFU5wLKnwGrzT-CSgX3JpEpTWbeko48jevC3-hTUj-AaNH_SC?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mh_3zPPWix1iCvFdqxPQlrh4S9v1BmM6ZohubNvnkWTP_7V9oXmlShlaEo8JUl4yJradEClEgq6x208vC35vLqlzkNTWF4BR_GkchS80m2UMDjkC4VfMyZOUJK8eLXKWHYnzp_hjsjjDwlj1v3GxD8HTU-iShLWFuz8t4CYpKTX3fNrA47LNIwTBkZKFV4zY2?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0OpKibhYpsJhJx6eUYoAjLHmPsmDamtqWeeGamITNvKKCGG994dolmTm8dkhcdfeiLHeGBLX48bjKMQE4oJbHgPw-MDi8iy-eTX7mJ1t3uo1cfx8LocKO9K0Ep8U_tf32bQqnasag2I2XlZXB5zWQ2vL0SczXRTH0_BOIefOQDGAhTYfYQ3sn4aON9z1uAUt?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Believe me, I tried spinning and changing the mounting orientation but nothing really worked. The only way I could get the can perfectly upright while using the provided hardware would put the can directly underneath that AC line, not allowing the top connector to fit:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mf9VSsrizmT--YSZd6Z97mVgg6sF7iikV5kYVQ4qAVkwfO8kWl07nyRVGcPseu-OKxJ4KipG8QVzzOQfBS259KMkhbWEqyO_B7VS7AzI-VtW7sOzZ-V3dEPHfxh59XZ6vo6iwsBUIkEKYEIAt_WhNtfScRrIKE8eqrBNwMitdkUIlmhBi8kzojOJzCuYf9G8Z?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mx-X43ep1qG50I9YpCWAbq55mUTWriI1AbpTQ5fSIdiOtiONn1D82Ja6arvQTzxINGaSNVr20VPGHG-wbK0TUz-016v_4x-b6SzXJtB6LMFuSUGtLKjuDtSossBbTNeaO45LBNdzuBMN0tE50jwh_soWidkOCNqZh4zyRh00in42DctfswwbV2nxTPs0fBbQc?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now, I'm pretty mechanically inclined and can get really creative sometimes, but this one had me frustrated and baffled. Yeah, sure it would work leaning that way, but it just...looked like s***. I couldn't believe that UPR would allow this so I started thinking I got an incorrect part. It was at this point that I contacted them.
So the conversation started out friendly enough. I told them my dilemma and what I was experiencing and they sounded pretty surprised that I was having this trouble. I sent them photos and we went back and forth for awhile but it was almost as though they couldn't see anything wrong. I told them how much it leaned over and they kept saying that no one's ever had any problems...
...I actually started getting pretty pissed off at this point as they just couldn't understand my issue with the product. They just kept referring me to keep rotating it around a bit. But I had tried every combination of rotation and nothing worked.
They were basically just telling me I was S.O.L. and that they can't see anything wrong with the setup and didn't know how to help. Well, I just hung up at this point and walked it off and drank a beer.
I told myself I wasn't going to let this thing kick my ass, so I started finding what would need to change in order to make it upright. I realized, it really just needed to sit a bit higher and it would clear everything just fine. How much higher? Well turns out to be about an inch. Luckily, I had everything I needed in my "workshop".
I had a leftover piece from a Roland Sands breather spacer off a Twin Cam Harley motor that I never used and it was the right length and looked pretty cool, then I just found an appropriate bolt long enough in the proper thread pitch...and, viola!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msOyq00Gvo883qgNH_a0k4ytxPQQeWyB4QBud4xSMSBpcTE9k39ATOu1l7wJ1Si83x6DCgbMV7nk-BzmO4XBEVZB_nyvKhRBrBUdWVfvJI3o00i7w9eyPqpHxwPBZWuTxIz7Fr7ovrvmHXrjIHgoAIZRhjWzxi8nEzee2JtIgR7CYW2EBoG2ub6v3rpCR604D?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjhPgmFXlO-hY_pjiP-gwbfsnhPHK-cbsJWrmSw91DXHFyEZ9BeZnDXEf5_luaAw5avxgnK_bMQYaIpFU88odJ58gymH46EI7cuesKovw4_9nPubA2fwRRvuwkD-m9CKRhAgIF3UR-dayT3VpMAi7FK_csylMTkosVKo4dtiYDfTsZdvSwROyH1Qxoq0pOVID?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Problem solved! Perfectly plumb and all fittings would clear any obstruction. Now that was out of the way, I could proceed to the next set of issues.
The next issue was the fitting that connects to the clean side. I was provided with a large 5" or 6" silicon coupler with a fitting coming out the bottom. This was designed to be used with the stock airbox. Problem was, I had the AirAid box, but the fix was easy. I just took the quick connect fitting out of the silicon coupler and find, to my surprise, that it's threaded with a 1/4 NPT on the end. Perfect! The plastic tube section of the AirAid box is very thick in that same area, so I just drill the appropriate size hole and threaded the plastic. I intentionally made the threads shallow so that the fitting would seal tightly as it was threaded into the plastic:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGcn-0tbckUSJ2dOrGjxhBpACo6PR1ZR7cTs0K8p7vDryBxwxzAuP3foC-Rs3QDOCbsNKH_7pNj63jxothUNwUeRHCHEAsb7LX1rOEK38ldbzPqlZIktXii4RoTHRYhDfu4NeYRYEQ-tAUoIlWRJyedRD5k06uuh6gkWS5gbDHy_aW82ccY9GEwePtCWuGUj7?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrGQgD0j24bECJP957270cWzV_VaZn-6waMbrhl17TsUjRjzDriqCbvITrqFvhxsYuwKG0KYGnk8forolgO4K2nfc9mNPLWMGmU2pTu66o5Vjf2KViAaIPlMaGzXZdGQOIBKFRIJGiEitNxWW6PAy19R3nTylHJHdTYS5UC5YbPFLg9F6gNy6n8BB-GZkvtpN?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3oR5FzNbJVI54R41BWDyUYB1isgZ4hgBDNsCC52rKUsaqYDROaQIz2u8R4B4qKpCiDvidMz06cuxF-3JPfoJKZYaBYe2WUQyhIlOUvZ-lQDu28iFr8bnLt8VMxj01Dow3OElWmyfHxXrMdtFw_xg4D8iBCjVVPJIaQSjNSkI5AmyzyFQBhfhBd6b9LIO_JHe?width=1024&height=577&cropmode=none)
That solved that issue. Finally, as I was installing the quick drain setup I had added to my purchase, I started thinking about how I could make this draining process even easier. I started thinking...there's gotta be a way for me to drain this thing without taking the can out OR getting underneath the vehicle.
I scrounged through my collection of random fittings and connectors and found what I was looking for. I would remove the bottom plug and install a stainless steel, push-to-connect fitting (although barbed fittings will work too). I like these fittings as they are able to easily swivel even when tightened and connected to some hose.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mF0xYYJba7mI1Z5ZZHJlMDbkOiYZZlFVbyTh7947NKMKZpmf0mfVTGzKSVIfMX5B3cEV_HLnIfD3XaRTHGiA53ITY-XZomvK8khQHzlYdxEKQhsTNpPAg-g2uge14VVCx3qchQgGyygB-1xcU-DydlucJtzxJf6tBi-jXEAu6EpLzC1jN8_0hMI9j5vnL2q3f?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I also didn't really like their ball valve too much so I went with one of my choosing. Another stainless component, and installed push-to-connect fittings on either side of it.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJx3PR5bLLngj6vVTWC1BLPYxqATLAbQwY0zlcwMGjM4V29wWc3wr1nNbuq1jCca6W04iVRZdMuFgnC5F5UiHxxC2rHoLqQdliCHvaJnbnUyo_3b8_CbG7ElmiYj7Cr3bT1C2m_nyRv6Dxu6wLvJJT9QYt-T0-P1WHZfbSdluMMaF_P8BHXEzgnzDFOmoYpWm?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And here is the hose (high temp PTFE, so don't sweat the temperature issue...I know somebody will ask), along with all the parts I used for this:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msR12FOMer2Ex5PSd46Pmy-uCqdwNuKR6p6zqP100aQyDTE7w0ihtmt58RClmjBlFSY96yYElKbUOxJ6dwWxsWtwJAzvTpp1PLV1MDhor-W_2-S2z52HPDJR7aOR5P9qSC0grQHklxnWfjBeE74g65vkrHvMsDFmiiWxugAlyNndWd09L0GRCwDZXkg_6uODB?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I found this area behind the front grille to mount the valve, after drilling some holes in the plastic for the zip ties that will secure it in place:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2qojcUVvxD3yqnNGFafQa84yRB0agJkiRsV4HfQV_xpeuet6VFX87oVNfNkKB8k10IPMbE4yU44fc6NZoIq3Et0llKh6Ht5As0iu-EfIYL0IiYQzaYAJP-7iJ1bKTpkQuxtUxQYerkcEkQPcpxU5ukJlnXesbv76kJC68_HEAk2LqkIL6pi_rNn8PQaO0uyp?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Mounted:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mW25YwDpB4k01WSUQTOyZxYPnpvKNobKqPWcL7G_RYeHQ70BTkovyhRZuK3ky27TdkYiX7n5I4ZrocH8e4mhkaoz9fZh2hUwnwxg4PXuEqvtAb8EyGfnpNUibjLnE8TdtJfNNlr9unpqIbizZLtBEZsNuqU3kxvGxzX7cIhd09VVlZi5lUJBtURU__HhZ3zFp?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
And all connected:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mKGVp0aW10wp3gWwcggjmdtK0fCgY4FexZRw5xBrngrzVGr-Kim-HkPshaywAOjkNHGOQ2XQej32bgSLeIc_RX1zMDmibxdOtRxy8Jk6maUAUD_F0EWM85XfoUhqVM94N2dZlVZsyxh4SoySSvnhUopx1MjVLWXKN4P8xAIEHoy25ivcMmKjbo1xCxTlewCEd?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The hose goes from the bottom of the can to this valve. I can close the valve, but as an extra precaution, I keep a push-to-connect stopper (red piece) always installed.
Now, how the hell does this all work and how does it make it easy you ask? Well, enter my air-operated MityVac fluid extractor.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXEHNeNuDgqK32hMeSacR9BOZNT1WCDqKCFRm6tV_lQhZ-S_VtL2VADOFDK5gsemKkSib7GTnAYrjtx-Cx8Hf5BgwqAlN4iXpLxpegiInRF-sRm0YUNyaHWn-Ks8YdZxm9lpf2B_THE9KWt2rIWViVoYK5wrjdd5sIdsKXstTR810IO5m2yThudCtFoZwImwV?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Normally used to bleed brakes but it has many other uses. I just pull out the red stopper, connect another section of the same hose to my MityVac, connect my shop-air to the MityVac, open the catch can valve and it sucks it out pretty quick.
Problem solved!
XDI-60 High Pressure Fuel Pump And Innovate Motorsports Ethanol Content Gauge InstallationInstalled both the XtremeDI XDI-60 high pressure fuel pump (http://'http://www.xtreme-di.com/product/gdi-high-flow-pump-xdi-hpfp-for-ford-taurus-sho/') and the Innovate Motorsports ethanol content meter (http://'https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXD.php#3904') at the same time. The goal is maximum e85 capability, so it's good to know what exactly is going in the tank and this meter will facilitate that.
Some of the other parts I bought to facilitate this:
- New injection pump roller tappet, Ford PN: AA5Z-9C587-A
- Custom Raceflux (http://'http://www.raceflux.com/') -6AN Hose (Length = 18", Fitting 1 = 120deg, Fitting 2 = 90deg)
- ACDelco 13577429 GM Original Equipment Flex Fuel Sensor (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQR9C5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1')
- E85 Flex Fuel Sensor Connector Pigtail (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRXKTZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1')
- -6AN Male to 3/8" Female Fitting (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FFRC85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1')
Started with the easy part. Installed the gauge on the a-pillar. It's the lower one, the higher one is the Aquamist methanol flow meter gauge (later write-up on that).
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mA2fhmbOv_GhPl5_Uo2opsFFBKpbXa2BuccZrjTNQlzVAXcbTqNK4m7yoUk7JAoGUvKVxIngxWMup9-7ns7Z_AlMUaxJkAe7Y6Gw_tAzicuvvHYtWOv52Oc5ndyH23kyfojVTJtyFrOxCbGqChCh9wbXK-twLSdV9aVaqwBtLor8gIeWnYvCFJjw3NZ326Jsk?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So wiring it up was kind of a pain in the ass, mostly because it was difficult to find a place to go through the firewall for the sensor wire to come through. Here is a link to the install guide: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTXD_Ethanol.pdf (https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTXD_Ethanol.pdf). As for wiring the actual gauge, I found a 12VDC switched power in the fuse box beneath the steering wheel, a ground wire to the chassis somewhere and then tapped into the headlight fuse in order to get illumination/dimming. I left the input connector outside in case I ever need to connect a laptop to it for programming:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4HiIfdmvo7yWkUHRFfsGhXIHAO1n9vx2jn1kIubXaYh06YG3Ng9-cAu3dWvpCskL5ibGG-PdzcEkMP3G8bIC4YUlB2eiJ4ZBosbItwtDGuJEBWoxqDqO2GlxEbl5asoYHJZo-fSDxI2nkUa5qtw7iZpAq3rp0qfcUtBtu2WYiGSxqA24MAkzIq2gPihBoVfm?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After completing the gauge installation, I paused on the remainder of the flex fuel sensor to proceed with the XDI pump. Here is a video made by XDI that I found useful. It's for a Taurus SHO, but installation is identical:
[media=youtube]eqnewM691Fs[/media]
I'll try not to rehash everything in the video and just cover some of the things worth pointing out. Here's the stock pump:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mt16hj65teZbrGzaq05Q0U1LMK2pMXomo1E9vN9QfD1QNxbFMau2hbXpQ0xyk_L8605CWWzoI8utUb-76_GEXDTny41tAmzZQtKFlw_nqF7c6_k0t2GsqcCc3zTxwboMOJtQZPgpOzuH0B6xtOWO72VTf7w9lTHiIwTEy_sKMKS55-irtgi2EV1wsxaqAZRn6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Removal was relatively simple, but just make sure as you loosen the 2 torx bolts holding down, you alternate between the two so the pump comes up straight. Underneath is the roller tappet. Pull that out and replace it with the new one:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtQollbB7aRrSMmVG2kaXm65VhwO-_Nm3t9-BKnwu8k-RSm2Gf8a-g9Yj1en_GOYEpMXuiuh_ps4BNlSsAtwRVEQTNnKClWn01poqHzc3sI6XRU_ULaRNNKI4-XPAD579Yf6fJD-JLpdn6ZbqcFp8pKZuiQ0DbR2NNMpx4hAH2HkfADFOzRvjGk87H_gxmtdT?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is the pump after installation and the position of the high pressure line before bending:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhdVoJTT7p0ESeAdzZlG1Zomol6kLUYTqgPB2d_b-8YSa2cHfgCKwaLgw1OB2zHKi43-7N9Gn-CtMZsHELXbt7wVktFRTX6ntdvagcXz-_E62DYJd-ZGwqnjb5oIUJxA1Qym7NUwZ4TkU1pvFZ1TSpNY2JmlrCK1mDrzYaP9jevGBj05P5tRgXa9G9-jo4_Y6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSKwkYX23i_S8gdA9mfhkPEmfZv-AH5PcGy4vnzNw9fB5GJjof8JMxoRB9twVNiG6-nze5KvXmSCWkncE_dtvNX-uVYh4463tqN50H3pD_bv5SOFSjLmcrYB6mDiC3v880Z_tjnW6dbaNzjXPTfCG2NtSkmPYfoBZ8wuDb6UypHEzE6Pu8t32Np1-Y_31d-ku?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As you can see, there is some work to do to get that line connected properly. In the XDI video, you see that the nut holding the line down to one of the valve cover bolt/studs needs to be removed. Well, that stud was still getting in the way, so I removed it and cut off the stud portion of that bolt as it wasn't needed anymore anyway. It gave me a bit more room to maneuver:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3oJ8yzAAllpcHLd-aUIeDRbkVbq-Eqvjt_4Lk1uIbpDMaEQr5j0D4zIJcXYtNmyPWijVY8OuvtX8ulVyXudavTvizOKUTKBfZIciIN1vCCedGuYqSRfc3TKDPS1rGRFJfqbFcycL5NdhKGzyy_B5eMtnY91AVnT3jDNf6oIHTZ-njSzX_Ibl7Trmw1Vnq-AG?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzqiReelCnww_mdxOssoVHAfp68jrEeNLOcc85bIf9ULgnP3xzOWnLmHL-TdERiyEB-mYuvG-eT19IfoSW1SsC25fUe43oEdMiQEF4ZZqHp25dX9RrnMB0e1rnu1Loj5WZPXPgXJl1tbAsEpQG4fDi3_k_ZnRxMMHVnjwNi3TMEcQM6qjbtRunB-zz-THSftZ?width=576&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Make no mistake, this was the most pain-in-the-ass part of the installation. Getting that thing to seat then seal properly was a nightmare and at first I thought I got the wrong part. I had to contact XDI a few times via text with photos back and forth a few times to get approval from Uwe that all was well. He is the MAN, btw!
FUN FACT: According to service manual, this high pressure line is actually a one-time use part. Once it is disconnected, you are technically supposed to replace the whole line. If you don't want to remove the entire intake manifold and all the shenanigans that comes with, than you will make this work, LOL. Keep in mind, that ball end is supposed to "seal" into the pump in a sort-of "crush" fitting way. This is why it is one-time only. It is difficult to get that seal again once it is broken.
It leaked the first few times I tried it, but after yelling at it a few times, it finally listened to me and sealed up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXFwLy-jshsYecRnnBYzKGk1a5adwi2-tL4lpnSwMjV_uaCi5Qcd2FuUVI6TW6ocODy7finZitBJPWD-RIE3wIQORRwJUd9nhctpWgtuCquZQDQ7K62dMsDLfmQo2qsIMPawt3xsDLgne79wH1TtpLK0vRyR0bTnZ-nqm_g0K-Ypvrf4n38dmX9B7E9qAmtzW?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Now back to the sensor so I can get the low pressure fuel line installed. I connected the sensor onto the fuel line that comes up from the back of the firewall on the passenger side as well as the -6AN Male to 3/8" Female fitting:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mpIOyB8aBfkj_IvtOQGAr5ppB1CckTvdOUBmQE7aevG1dJpiiF1q9kdcnOYHqSVoBEOrjgBHvSnpwbHmVAOD33_dpFP188AFkoAmqDc9bznVHGDuoheGYGzXqcoW79VKvJmj-gQWgGK6yLPbmXa19subbMYyDFsG5LnHT7JqsMqgT8aFaszck9QbdN1n7XoAf?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As you can see in the lower part of that photo, the low pressure fuel hose that came with the XDI pump (has the yellow cap on it) was a bit short, so I had to order the RaceFlux one:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjh0mPkY7SHwQ-cY9ghgAAOjKwIhgF_zBDilJ1mZBF5UYS2aFXHcKj8KkNb5IbLKmp_rDjkGqoVCnc4CwmAM9xZB-r2v6uW0djsK7mjbPB37S5LA_CswK5WIoKhYykA-vruK4bJ9BcK6nFRs9dv_e2GfnRXUDrDn5HklQg-dldAygNA8RJSrB-ONE_y3NKSUL?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Once that was connected...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYnWnhbRtIUcf4H0tHDAl06d0VlAX0n88NjvFw1ZfBJibwKOp6ET_2_riX3g-POEl0e5MBYucNLdpf5mhmaZaYviID6Qk6tpTP2xwoiffp00uHcAcNNcPiyGZukn2jEXAFgow9w_c-H9-daGPFQsIy6HwoPRRjYULIUy__ouhRjDL6PNGIHRQerPWg6Vww-zW?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
...the pump was all done and it was at this point I did the test run for fuel pump leaks (I had some as stated earlier). Worked through that issue and finally got it sealed, as mentioned. Now to get the flex fuel sensor wire through the firewall somehow. In order to do that, I had to remove the wiper arms, hood cowl and wiper motor assembly.
Check out post #57 in this thread on how that is done.
You can see in that photo how I ran the wire in the engine bay after connecting it to the sensor. Punched the wire through the cowl area using a rubber grommet here:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moMLECHDRtlVr4Z7HxdZB7VcGwvxBXjig8OXPJwbWPFiVnDqAhZpyWkhHMRPCptFQcu6wCDcKS0XcjWLTPWOubRSfDwsuP6XND77t6CQ7TDzk6XItHq4zDK0_9EWMuo-bFC8xQvYD6pIgs6KpRoxjpoYnlmXSZgAdieyoCfju-GnJHXXcsoCNPK3K2oOTKdRa?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I made a small slice in this rubber cover and pushed it through here to get into the cabin area:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mKqrJ1p5R8Oqx0XvxDOKJDpJjbGh27pHZ9JgYbFfKhjBefqOUgnZvT40qV1RT3Z1gddhpo0QN-61bTwREeP_OpxhiGiM2kY8QdPMvzRQi4sauJEoo9DcnxfIcaBopvJojK-P6AQnIbaWh2XHzmUr6vTC-Tt1klxO9FePtd7WuEYiV1SB2cm_sPPxOnFjnPUWw?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I then used some RTV to seal it back up. But even through this opening it is still a pain to fish it through. For this job, I used a tool I learned to use back in my stereo install days. A large HVAC zip tie:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mut23SV-q199UwmL1efFj6lHKYW1Uh2e6E1Oqu5TjST5-RHKN5xmt8lYJmRz5VE3bHRnyqaOJVhMoZ_kk-zJsvJ5dfxle68UtndL6uWn-aUBw6dbmjqZHUmAQSNNzQg7OU8A-tmHXrZ7WvC9uYQCK3ogStRqCIdtp2KpFA9jAPlFmoBIxYY5gcef-CEAlyL2F?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It's the perfect tool to feed wires through openings as you just tape it to one end with electrical tape and when it comes out the end you need, just pull it through, undo the tape and you've got your wire fished.
Once it was through here and down into the cabin, I wired it up to the gauge end and tidy'd up the install and put everything back together. Once it's up and running, you can see the ethanol content of whatever fuel you are running, even mixtures, as well as the temperature of the fuel. Now this isn't much other than a tattle-tell gauge but the great thing is, there is a 0-5VDC output signal for both the ethanol content as well as fuel temp the gauge can send if you had some sort of stand-alone fuel system or found a way to integrate this into a true flex fuel system.
I am tuned for 100 octane at the moment, so the fuel has anywhere between 6.5% to 7.0% ethanol in it. 91 to 93 octane typically has about 10% or so:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFA73dbu3Y78MUJLR97Gh9FYie3Wr2pzVjen7cY8GFbPN0OiS-CEAz0U6sDlxG_4iVzIpFCCuM6P8Wy7Yy8fQCV3VmpHEau1PRIKL11JcHqKS6pFYQihL8u_qUIhAnQOQY-mQowjpqaUhM9bo30WAonhMvHy-Tjj__xdEFHVHt2A0jGibHB5r6qeRBCv-p6Lu?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And a final video with engine running:
https://youtu.be/FRcUUyXUTgE (https://youtu.be/FRcUUyXUTgE)
Redline Tuning Hood Struts
This was more of one of those gee-whiz mods I decided to do on a spur of the moment. It was a reasonably priced mod for something that was actually an annoyance for me. I always hated the manual prop arm as it often got in the way when doing work on the engine. Plus, it makes the view of the engine bay at shows and meets just a bit less obstructive.
Anyway, nothing too serious here. The struts are good quality and have lasted almost a year now with no loss in lifting capability, so I'm not disappointed. And as mentioned, it's made maintenance a bit easier.
I ended up getting their "Elite" version as it comes in stainless steel. Not only do I like the look of stainless, but it'll last a bit longer in the weather. However, their "Standard" version is also great quality, comes in black and is a bit more budget-minded. I got them from here: Redline Tuning 2011-2019 Explorer Quicklift (http://'https://www.redlinetuning.com/2011-2019-Ford-Explorer-Hood-QuickLIFT-ELITE-p/21-11032-03.htm')
It wasn't too difficult of an install. It comes with all the hardware as well as good instructions. It required no drilling or cutting. I won't waste your time doing a write-up as it is all right here and very easy to follow: Redline Tuning 2011-2019 Explorer Quicklift Instructions (http://'https://www.redlinetuning.com/v/vspfiles/templates/Redline/images/21-11032.pdf')
Only thing I will say is, it was a pain to get those clips onto the ball ends of the mounts, lol.
A few photos.
Before:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8-F40AsoYYfsQS0IAg9miBVeQ6fxSTMrrqNO4Cm_nV_jXq7-BM2V5aQ_vOAefDK8O_JIdI4LTz8pcOqpHhBlWBbkb0tQgLZ8nepo5RHXjgkSoJfLQMzApW60GkzLyfxsVyJfyPy7_Dwcfj9hCT_WbxdkoMyivS0L6HYAV7zOvL608_J-7FMsNew0NBSLVoD7?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
After:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muzVmGIvjg7eh5QddeRzZOn3gY3UKdRaJRSsOsVaeQLfWIzLEX5RRc7gkJzJ5t697uLy0sOHwux1NgI4yNGAQjpoCbikhxVQQ1NVszSpQhToyfffg6Zuw1DpkQWfN_OYIfqjmPk1Gk8KOMsn6YclUqh5SIzz72ztjnrJ-TmO8zsqeHXDcFfVlZLxxOEKIhpu_?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Steeda Rear Sway Bar, Toe Link & Trailing Arm Install
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10583.msg159041.html#msg159041 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10583.msg159041.html#msg159041)
This project started when I got wind of the recall Ford had for the 2011-2019 Explorer rear toe link. Started doing research to see if there was anything good aftermarket and found that Steeda made some stuff! Ended up with not only the rear toe links (http://'https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4093-explorer-adjustable-rear-toe-link') but the rear trailing arms (http://'https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4092-explorer-rear-trailing-arms') AND the rear sway bar (http://'https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-1025-explorer-sway-bar').
Awesome and easy! Thanks goes out to @uin2it and his install video (http://'https://youtu.be/qMnGohpPHz4')
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4md0Un2hUq1Wgabhqi7AYS3dgkXF9e369FcDodNMVHF-lRz8ecTlWYFK8w-vWqMtUT0-IFbs2MmWtXAyCKnac_d0AwayIlsdVEXJpLcdaFJ15CGGo5qhodiVVOoCDhwGHXWt9h83e0Y3EMp_V8sjJTpELvjC3KlGAKD5Nw_fzd4g4MTWL6gAkR1nWDcupxy5bT?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mn8-c9ORu6vvMytXXZl-eTqPKXvtHUoW48vF2TFrfJLczd4T2VUxxeo74CngeKnRyZ3P8ZkdBWwsKpGHttpjz-CesILF-DvrRnO7WB-D8MnFQpqvccnjv9faY6XZq8DntfX1T2YVGSz6AiELTJXWnxmldcI4x799JmB-Gs751GA8K0rQaadcmzIDQ68LzQsE4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mv6_BmocexzeM7E6YuFDOu0gP0dUBmeWxmBZj8KXSxYPpRC2yrLYO4uILNvzQdA90YEWxQJtgz7423kVOffIryvapAnpxGxyxfx-2_NbtCy94JkJRsXVPlMb1bAqbT98Cyz0UbJoycMW-QoWjLCLdnyyi7kd54yzx5uIF20YoeWBNkNxW1nqlFRLYaZXVb1TC?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mHx0KqA5zgLISw3OPb7rFqGFYO3cQJoy5MQExuk6QOowLgTcrNw11NZybroBFzUfatCaXM8MKD5zM8XPD5OYApY4idzZ95smN2Vv9ic7PCCNqsw6BpysBdq_UUDgiUcu3wLPXbzQl0asUYPjcuZmzO9r_8vxpDJHjYsnGLe9LxekSDbEnjiQbYKp1txSe9t-z?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCdn8AJXn5Cq6e2RqD50WANE7rvyUudzbd6zGu7WiZaoO6zm9iBPe4E5GLWt7f-wXfqSXpYWpz7mpOI3FSLv0X17EmBo17bZTv3oMKLgJPN2L0y_XZAYTAknr-Kd2IYJhPx31nEK6iqguxNZFvDddE0dOPHx6-jIuCz59lj8_IcDILYs3diMM9xg6Y4Eh0znp?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Comparison of the stock vs Steeda trailing arms:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mxXQue8Z-LEAG2hGTVG2SQXWqDAPixH5dbhu-lfkjNsTIHfmolFvR6YXOukpHoR9Jj7icCiXaCiAdnAzS-Y7uhGosyVX4K72cVGBLQmKnpFoqIANHTsH9OvI9bpYP4dULrD-2mBzEDGSuk08Ys9pXjgexytSbFr5m6bjDDI1JAEcoZGzrRI9ORiBVs4j57RaG?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mR5RZzD8l6D02878Ca41Yuryhn4H_dnXBog7h8oJTK9gFAutwtf4RIVNbCfDeUGm0EfW74SUoev357P-WD1v6ZkItLMwkkzQ0Vl-bGMPKS1ywcMYkQ69YIaVbiuziseQq-JwgvXnpqZYCnTb-vtawdOeTBx6jgpEu7iQn_2Vy5v5RXVHwbJmQEF8FqxjtsHwU?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFX6MHPpN6wDHktQgJmp_HIiZHSElFrLf0n1Z_5QCe5dxaljqKIRt9iu0TD1LVeZOfUAFiuCLdUM2KYp7QISBblx-80w0VGItZ37MK4OyX96bWZedLzVfpBKlhA4xIODySaL0uFOf3WJZeLoU9MLhEDzdXiI48WTUZaeJgUnSm0SD4WT8fTFzpqE1YZOEj4Wl?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mTfVAARQa3CUDyuC9GGsvj_wleVgTXVDnrkfwSH6LzymsTGN1dan9TxUQULd564e91Ey0UBn4sZX7MIln8uGmOkJ89WCggpwHAglsrZnEDmsjff2VssKK9X2Ipj2u5XIieB-9zWpVKFgmLH53fSsm20pRNNppgO1omylJplLMFqaD9KACjMJ6Oosufiws76S9?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear sway bar install video:
https://youtu.be/yFW9KC9DuuE (https://youtu.be/yFW9KC9DuuE)
Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Foglights InstallOriginal Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10718.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10718.0.html)
So I always wanted to have better lighting on this vehicle and went to HIDs years ago. Lately LED technology has been getting better so figured I'd try out what was on the market. I wanted to stay away from cheap overseas kits found on places like eBay. Did some research and learned about Diode Dynamics (Diode Dynamics (http://'https://www.diodedynamics.com/')). Stuff is either made or assembled here in good ol' US of A.
Anyway, started out looking for foglight upgrades and I liked what they were offering with their SS3 Pro kit (SS3 Pro Fog Lights (http://'https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-3-sae-dot-type-a-fog-light-kit.html')). It's SAE/DOT legal so that's cool as well.
The kit required some changes as it wasn't plug-and-play (even though it was supposed to be listed for my application). They may now have what is needed though.
Finished installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miNtTxA4dH-30Mj8x2mz93BFu-h2WWQTLJof83ORlea_S9dXH__txG2l4BeOgM71momPspjBZc46E_moAvTPKH3c8r4rGzyQPlAhLdMGUDdR82RnLLV2u6_o89Zo8ikNZwlWtUSb-XJ6qWE0Jr3Lj8Y6mCmO6vFyt7iWHaXLB2-aZQopMxjm-ugA7XwP7R0E7?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
The foglight bracket once removed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myEypPI1NRPAuEL6LsNq68dNTpFRvAgwR0XTs1zWl8VGSQfEJO2VGtFAXdnxSfG-hAe_wqyA-QFY5OmLHpWNY2iekPexuWhQTOqxHKTCybeBH1lOZh2KI2h2rLGzSH2UDLFSurK5TGImB1ZFfMesyYa3lnAeepK6FlB97h81IUe5VRckz_zZnE-NQDV3W_WZ3?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
LED housing installed into the bracket:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmNiCHte2wbHQW3x7MWlzpciWuPNvqexyP3wA7FfLW7MKMY8Ww63OtIoTIbXJpg2-ThITnMEpcJs6XNGUM6g4-3JbXJrH80Q0cKhjjSYVlbMPhL-MpCjFo0HHDW_GfiDJWMR9G-bXO-ScijUbuuYKkZEkmnigFis3qEb5HceYfAAhdh06tI_Xno-wL1AACDGF?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The issue came up when installing the bracket assembly back into the vehicle, it wouldn't seat properly. Here is how far the bracket is away from bolting up when the LED housing is installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFOP7yKq3-LGTrrZwEeR4NPe0EtyOQyA6LoqZey2RL919DXeWrpJ3SmRBNx-ayRwgDV0fXk_goCstLmxL16HVHc4hgPeacwLA0OzMilsfMBSc7ZUX0HBhUcYc5YwAy_laPpgJiohQ5I2yrRixldJUhT25awTvoTtapiIeadNJxBS5kD_8XT-ICh0EuZSzd3ch?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mH8-nhreydgS2cZopIlUH24z7jc7qIyScWMaIiDIXLZWgPKI9clO2fBzjKSbQb6fbO1YSBWSFPNA_WJKBSHJYxOerOaavsCkRwu8jblcM1WAXLZPcZAAflkPwDf4QW7tWxRcfNzUjjbVCoyMLGmOSNwrRaKoHBbeVGeLUOafqrCi9wvA1pnqtzf5_8ZLKftiz?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
There are 3 screws that hold the bracket in place. Here is what it looks like behind the bumper without the bracket (I put my ball cap in the opening so the glare from the sun wouldn't wash out the pic, LOL):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNGKQQdDbNXFTJP1-nATRBwuEhnXz1U8Y-t5zodgchJiJA8m5UU6-ECRpd2hmqLA9svz5HN6-clKqTyqVRGhHszT8oLQtyf9YNsd7mB7I2-mXqczxPh6Zxwzh5a8TwUPEzF5k6hHKMfnoJG6CAf868MURgErBag9spts82ouNHehCYvDF5cVAlKBGf7_FdJ8Y?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
And here's one of the holes on the bracket:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrfBtdDWkf2jwjLElMn4RGfXP9HSWgDxm4tThp-IOR8C0eZfXC7d12u3_t1CZGAz5OvC-JvbzSiXce90vFllS9YHUYjdPvFd4QYX3qHthOruq2wP68jrVMBcf60VJxlz3LRP3LdEQdxWOd3QzZxa3u_SdHHi34k6pdcgXyonw38ue_NqUR_HZtrWqgjrawVGp?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Had to get creative so I found some old hardware and spacers in my bucket-o-spare-hardware, LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLXX7wF3FYTzrIHEIICv-s7GWbxdC3l7Gy1hFBirE-hMQ9bMYVQsEl7W0KSWit988ap8CxvhT9x2hjZps082nXgV6vZZqdj5q1i5zvlpat_NV_DxIovlQLkybJftV8D90BD3RSreJ-_9caXlfs9e-h87_oXfE3iUmLIHAFYPMm6pO7XubLWov69RUIH76RS28?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Don't ask me where that spacer came from, but they are about 1/2" long to fill in the space needed. I had 6 of them, 3 for each side. Here is how it looks on the bracket:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSRdLf5IfAdck1jiFJ3VrwkSugOcmxKPPdzrSi1kR6R0Ka2BahlACoJwjVaMNT-_nQVY3c8BqQfVF0ewLrvQmZKyE-iXf9Ifbn0FgW0DPbdxjKrncVAfZq4lDFnn6PSyiC-wLSmCFMRxpsH5NSfiCCsoAGmqeR3vjHkdjE9PBj14dwBWdxps4NpJA4ZbIk3oN?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSldQAUIKX2gqlRetpmQojFKzbrjnROOzELr1DvLHcwsldD5Ko-bQ4YupUunYSRBmUqAZtX_pnploGOYie3WfpLQ0ulh-bpq1pVe9cstjwiWwgbavPv7MUzNfRcDdnyv6HmVPysy38e-NqHM_7UlPU2R1nZzdm9wNL_X08klA2qu9_j7yQCQudmNIVevOvwG2?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And everything finally installed, now there is only a very small gap but I was okay with this:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mW13GIQsnG5FZx5_Oxg-j1QHcy3XeAH7jdH2CIzwJb91qSUhVcPYdylnoIcsNIx3i9LxqFyf8tmGrGkcNxfmZBcytjsrGm0yRP2dAq5DIiDZ3zO4T5iiEni-86Mo-gi5koBBmzxesskuyKrG5i4AXjJWqzlPPf7gVb3dT52pM5RNd5NVH7e4XUNr2jIBPnUF0?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4my5WSqWXi19vhtZFZoi9Eahq_mY3RJpfebMwQFNdjCCwmv7HYWij3-fve2-4XobTLr5EuqQC89izje4N1oTJ6gnHLtoVfI2GonpRdb-AITUO3f4iewMxLjZlfHJ2Q_y1H8xpgJrtY4HgLlxBry5cuodPvduYDPVAq8HmY2TuLljt-eTaTDCyNobL5DEDVK-7V?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is the look off and on:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzkDoGuZ2AUmaBRl1Vdydfy7ecjB1v2GHQxHTCq7xvI_nkfvVB3iKn8oBf5kHJN31M1zM88ErFuSGrwlEZ6yCvRDUHIqgOqsVwZB13710fWOyKocGLI1HVhCIMPiAfn8EOdih-RJ9nIs0eVhxP4q_GYnYRwGDfce_o7sJLejL3-y8SwqySqZ8EK0anG6S9LDA?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mKcEB6XJOqq76LbCxfKSyKAM6-rXQFCGkUQECFsdrtwf20AF1ksCDRQPtA0unYQFFm0Csa2bKa4eWtdz0LEKn6e1WpzvxmuW8Z0Nfardv-4N6fX8_6PlkKzO4SwAckHKahh9MnJDuWlJiV7SEdrn6ojHkjbuLUjthcD5EynHJFD8cyZBjqYkmfo7QDPI22G64?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Holy crap these things light up the road...WAY better than the stock fogs or the HIDs I had prior to these. Now I just wish there was some high end LEDs for the headlights that fit into our housing (I've tried a few sets and most won't actually fit properly).
So here are a few night shots. I did not take any photos of the HID fogs, so this could arguably be an invalid comparison, but figured I'd show at least something. I took four photos at each position. In my attempt at making it equal and fair, I took each photo using my Samsung Galaxy S9+, mounted on a suction windshield mount. All shots where made in Manual Mode:
- F1.5
- 1/10s shutter speed
- 4.30mm focal length
- ISO400
- No Flash
Order of shots in each grouping:
[LIST=1]
- Low Beam and Foglights
- Low Beam
- Low Beam and High Beam
- Parking Lights
1st Grouping:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8NX6k4ZORiC9bNDj75KK5kyeFR6qB-2TkDGH070-Cl2TkeDn_POS6KkyrgNRJExqugsFsQ55307S5bS3yv3kEX-iciOGwUx1zurifdYDvLp9AchAiK7UCAPghT7KjEcpAY_4qZNOpExpfPhuw18ySzwn7MFhQzWLmjkM49sf1v87ZLphYSHWScJKPsX_3oO1?width=576&height=1024&cropmode=none)
2nd Grouping:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mvON_xhvl08tOG8B9-eiR7W3d9wdUSg3T_p7p1RnwNC8XO6hqdfZu4EoLBk7tlzo0bcVjTwI9P-AWGhKe29YZDFakKzEmFmu5bv4rdb6iP8BElNn9uvCzSapuXTX1jKw3-MQcE1tNBxKsSHPffO0YCrN8FNVRpWhKXXhwrlCh8TcCQiRdRWhk-Sw_PlZTw8J6?width=576&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And finally, a light output comparison video:
https://youtu.be/DM5x_rdZePc (https://youtu.be/DM5x_rdZePc)
Anthony DiCunzolo Generation 2 Rigid Transmission Mount Install
Wanted to just make a quick (aka, LONG) video of the install process. Going on an Explorer but the process is the same for the SHO. It's really very easy and straight forward. Even with all the unedited parts where I'm away from the cam, the video was still only 30 minutes, so install time on these is actually even less. Oh, and please disregard the wooden block. I thought, for some reason, the trans would drop a bit and was just playing it safe with some blocking. Anyway, turned out it doesn't budge and I didn't need it...
Those of you looking to scoop up a set of these may find it difficult to locate. Well, he only sells them direct and doesn't have much of an online presence. You either have to contact him via email: tonyuep@aol.com or through his Instagram page Anthony DiCunzolo (http://'https://www.instagram.com/anthonydicunzolo/').
Before:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moS2RwhBr_zOdfhbaFNkNLrg1qxY4gp2sUgn70IAyHmrrD3F96mAkVZVZHCKUqstbPo5OXXOyAibW-xtHkWdLsSt4PQLA_0lousCU4vXlDktHW7yCfTLk7xJa0L8x7Zhp1x7j4hfW64dW78xX-oU0SnQam4qC8IVfJfalxalWCtiBtCSMmHFOTGa8LTYjanll?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4md4rVz3ALiFdBuWf8YEy-FkYXV-SEJYeBaEZHlzatIcHHvl5wLMC7XAgZeooVChYlh65wxNzL9ex3fatlyHHqGquOAZD4p3JybjXrRrVyuzyZclXNNqZmJTBn4JRQmWep-yeOSFFN_Y7NsgX91ViuxwgvAn3HoeEFjkvmjSwKfGq6sAFcYeElYQpyMdxT4mt3?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front mount comparison:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBa4JSiSaJkMtR7iVYl4qDb7lOUSrgY3fRa0-CBYurV0tKbmq_4FR-L9Nxycw7uFLyEGropYVjdZQLIjWY33IkKs21-jRUen0miHoASGiP-V0XsotBEF3ly4JC5tguzdeKt7uAmXO4TLlccr6wO_1Ul41-Lv4GDD0cI4rAG4qkQ9AoPccPBbd54nSN4LBzJMW?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwsrLXBkdP9vcoBlkxedPQRvQNSMNuIHsm8wJVuMUrxECGld2RFcLs1YbpfHLIGU5RXBFx6ExbnUHIgIRNGWx22cyiWumhnZXM73PEQgVPANOCYnzQec-y8FymA2_WwmYNFM3uTCfrK5hzoUzmSK9PwokkxVx2n2VNhX97A2_NnUXfRicpY8FO7UazHBGP2jH?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rear mount comparison:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mubtGaG7ZsZKDqD4PGhbpH_9JrSq8f15r8XWQwNgeImZ1MGWxafBItW5cSs-vhtDm_sKQkDAwFO1moUGdKbUDeyAgki5uIOkIjGyEVAqRGy7ebyNScEBr4P1loWOyawebSDHaGkIbyA24ZilcSS586aiZ50cynnRyknU08q6OblB-5QQpaq2PvdhntOmDUPzg?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAn_ljx6eXilfc5lvC2ZER7J9z9qhM-VAulNOnvRgzrhDtszsww6AHeVwQC--rzWarcCP2dkl5uqBgR0E-Eu3k_s5cQiyKBWjnmWJtMLZzZRBx_fpQGHDqcXQYwQ0KIEyJISbGqB614ZJdZo9HKFrLJdUcMXTzMh_N854xXHG2YYRN8LbPAyQYn-SYX8yrZk1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
https://youtu.be/xsovbdfMCQ4 (https://youtu.be/xsovbdfMCQ4)
Weight Reduction: Spare Tire Removal And Well ModificationSo I am always looking at ways to shave weight on this heavy beast. One of the easy ways I did to shave a bit was to just remove the spare tire and tool kit.
Removal saves ~46lbs:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moIjICOJw35wSdhaansd4V1_ei8xGMo7r6PU39IOQ0ke3zKn2gicbAyvSb18gOBB8_q3XBf5Y5DHFFjLeESr5uvvVds3HQNj5gYGah-J8HDFgnwg3Chn8AiUsYHwdFRVS77GYljaPk_Usoh2IX1VM_rM53IIO47wOzwPekGvd9Abb54dNJX9f34t1ktf8pnJU?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Now, for many of you this isn't an option and that's OK, I don't blame you. I made this decision on two reasons:
- I have towing with my insurance policy. I get that it may not get me out of every situation, but it's something.
- Most importantly, this isn't my daily driver. Frankly this has turned into my project hot rod, LOL. So it spends a lot of it's life on a tender in the garage.
Anyway, there where a few small drawbacks to removing it:
- When the car wash place I take it to from time to time crawls in the back to clean the back windows and interior, they unknowingly step on that thin particle board cover and almost fall through, but defiantly cracking it a bit. I didn't realize that the cover physically rests on the spare tire and uses it as a support.
- And more annoyingly, that bare metal and empty space started acting like a weird amplifier for road and exhaust noise. You can hear it just by tapping on it how it reverberates.
I decided to try and tackle both. Let's just hope I didn't add all that weight back that I saved by taking the wheel out, LOL (it didn't, btw).
I started out by removing all the foam from the backside of the cover as well as the carpet from the top of the cover. The foam just ripped off. No biggie as I wasn't going to put anything in its place or re-use it. But the carpet I had to be more careful as I wanted to reuse it. I wanted to remove the carpet so that I could hide the hardware I planned on using.
After removal of both materials successfully, I took an orbital sander to it to sand all the remaining glue down and make it smooth again. Now to brace up the underside!
I had some metal bracing laying around in a scrap metal pile I keep that would do the trick. Not sure where it's from, LOL. Here you see the first one installed. I used rivets with washers in order to keep the profile as low as possible on the top side.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMc_4tuJ5z_K7KBrKRDnNxJ6NPH4yoSLHtwslNfEl_W64Hr441QzEh_iad7QS7bgA8SSTYU6FT2E_0GmctFEeotZZ_mcK8ni0sdklTOGhn45IYlpALxOYwe4A9pJu0dZuSzHfXVf4pNfrOuap4usL4RtRVkZ1HMtHkihRPiSXuOqR8xaUAi20bRa5ILsQNDrW?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Here's a rivet/washer combo from the top side:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4ms2SaS_O8YhpSMu4SaPFiRo-LF9RR5FTjSkY1eE55XbtAL66zSHIna8E-ndvDcT_AWs9-VpLTknLjzG2U7jNDkuM8d0qdnnEtAHMR6mfWql0CTw0Gy44ED5xvEp5mb3ybxKVSc3Jj2y3U3G5BetmumU8Emjc1QnQC_Bl2qhPOwgs8nlKTsSojpAm7o7MDGkKl?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the completed bracing:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtnNIDyFc4FUuB0kh-RE95xHH1H3ZqPrDcHAIaAOrcPxXMM7ofjKzbk22KGbQQgnMjjf9jdekJ7PKuch6Jz0DzKiCx8OYWmC7ydMO0SDg1pwUo25U1qtLowYvKX7tnMuG96UK4MJcupRuItAZTpXZ6v4evHA8-iLQlFN3qL4DcDFzMkmkiZ9yXc9sAP51G3gc?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Top side and close up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mHfM1xxzXV7n_WEqPEYLemniMPeNOmnU9prskEvXK7vn83-QpgW787km5UqHj5mYkj5V2kftM2zZTR_ZsbladFkfVFCnBtryNEmoof0bO5rR3180JmdH5JEnAW6zfTk3ZO-0Nif6rDbQ6c0jTPQjNSuEI11wYb-t5fa0l6clz_5P9FL2Sbremy_4aTquVErTg?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mvQ2iCzoAPQw2W_eeAgmh1Xv-zHDgoKanQ4ayapT-gO8HezlOw3l6o8WFk3_8rjR-GgUaHE_UoCHcN9lNHhoynkC2pKp9K2lihDn7C6FxTQMiLRnAku7V4EpSGodhB5i6PeLfOvuTsvT65lrmatihMuhlQkwVWAc27uFCTlLQgqTaxLrvp9stoa-awlqwXC75?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Completed with carpet glued back on using some 3M speaker box carpet spray adhesive:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m92CKHA8pZY3gerd00BrPyGGfYrBdn34wZGQyX4QcwatJl-d1nk-OWpymjSbZj0zDO7lLAX5hEGOStpSeRslfUbRTUA0YCY5qE32tv0KeMO6Hlg7XDVhX0GGTYFmhYsMXHnG78SA3E6CnTUK_Thc450vYWXC-Riur7i8t4BAyOirR3gq7KQAySM6ovKVKg_qC?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now for the sound attenuation. All I did was add some DynaMat and it worked great. I had already put some knock-off DynaMat stuff on the sides of the well a few years ago when I was stilling keeping the spare in there, but when I removed the spare, that open metal created that amplifier, LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEm4eeCwZA9RC1GAC8qCucDfeEIfEkyCXgGQRscDUI_h3O4cOMXty6SW8OEj9Ju6s5tG5EGjoyfD5EvyT6ou4Pe6D6JWWClo1WmzWom6XKw2roxVuiiHNa6hgL5Y7jcGrpHPgzDYayDZ2pk7vvrK2GmJQ2MUQrlNV-63Iht3g_hDF3axR44XgYqFCpOKmhEti?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mue8efLAt9GwgIOrywtvhFeZaeuAyX5XewkDlMUCcWsV1Td7QGxIiglCB7Kt6UZarRQv-b9k-M-G1y_S2hXzPQQCwQpU7gCnPnTCuctGbDMF9oR3ds76ykaXPvmjx8W1LSL0RMy493tgYUAqkZm1_qGCjnr_xLb_SKJ9vcHmon_EzWMK0Rq-ojr04sJjhcamK?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here are some sound file/videos for comparison.
Before:
https://youtu.be/5eB84un_OZI
After:
https://youtu.be/_EUqAqrQc-4
Back in the rear and all done with this part:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDzZw8g32YFAwTJGcTM18nkxmJUKNdj3YdhBbynr6_lNBZJ7yf5wz-xH4v8KikxYcV7r8juuGyk66Mw6v7StdHnPAvPJQGP06bdt5flXSBjpVzYWuiJ0hoZ1_xpI9hLAEJcxrnGb1jm7WnU5as1__FHBeIOy9C2uDcv-EBZrnesmdbKVf_vqAfga6-wAMhVXT?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mitT2y_j7wk-XUhkA9fzkzeoVNu3aQCXVrT2yirmsaRMS_9QnQA9DORXbcpB-p4QnxWO54fo71xs33lQht4Pt09i9xgBkhqZHIAlgGZAZNPEqX0QBLXQMGpyCCqjethtYy2XRf7LfZkO6BJjkKuIOP_Mqd2geCa3PwFpWSuZQvpCg_tSkM1fPZnuDVg7tKM4A?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~268.0 lbs
Fancy Explorer Sport Tow Hook Bling
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10581.msg159031.html#msg159031 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10581.msg159031.html#msg159031)
So I'm one of those guys who likes the look of those red tow hooks folks have been rocking lately. I'm a function-over-form guy normally so I was apprehensive about a mod like this as it does nothing for performance and it's purely cosmetic. Figured the circles I travel in would laugh at me for "trying too hard" lol...
So, after some thought, I decided to say screw it, lets just go for it. Most feedback has been positive but I do get the occasional hater-ation. Oh well, if I'm not pissing somebody off, I'm doing it wrong, lol.
Final product:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mW611Y5oTMp-ZSIR38xkby6Jw-tU3bA4wex-qxj6K6qz9zW2SVh3IkdwrlmGufc8Mv0LYF4XDLRYr1yBfTSSozq--JjJyNAWOe0p3iWt0bwM4zb_kd2o88GrVMyQ4VS2EqqalHRSyg6EZZqDE3I9Zq5UYWn1wYZcRimqfc3CxLjwbAWkvve4k_Fad-yyC2wpI?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Being the guy that I am, I decided to write this up so you lovely people can enjoy it yourself. There is NO high-end aftermarket tow hook for our platform, so I decided to do some experimenting. It's not a cheap mod. Even though I spent more due to my experimentation, all in, you're still gonna spend about $240 not including any shipping or tax.
So, it all started with the factory tow hook and getting dimensions...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mryZWK2xbfyV6AFyvb4e9qU4NhJaDkkez0aZi7WrBj1rjJLsov3xK1i6F7TUp58AkPpXc2nc4Zs_3H3OXhwmTShl67_vZX9M73Ku0lw6xdEi9-wBC_ak4LGJA8FtPlRwPp1HHMzDSXfu_DZvLKMY_6gYfPqoLQORlfY8Tpe4mEI7IDciEbGDf_wgu4VOZyL9V?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNVQx1iJxLNenrMrxpeeHtHzmf3tdDeB6tMTdqz1TLuzKn7wVd97CNvzii98Xq7uf6IAitzzmCYNWaSgrNuUOMF_eHwPtCNXXxot_p7qrJyGfD0io8_G9ZaQUqDrVnmtHJC6aGHtiQpLg5gB13mElXpXIO1eL5WQaJDSDKxqO3fX_rp49ZGqXJMmOaNAHw8XZ?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myotlcEbbGtJU6LvIgVlQEfRHrcj7hu5fYlxEBdbtBEEUhXcZuIEjeToLJDYL5Z-vmSS2gqlMxSd8dxvp27I7UBlEqiWBjV2XWNh1uC1ZMzzL1qUsxHmQ3X2J7JTBCe06JM7cqHxOONzl1qFjWh_p0O9U_tJ-sWSd5bNrw4kXYAiwU2giDdx4BeKtoFiIb28i?width=576&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myFA5iXRXvkRanFhP35HOplXIzCW_P3i1f5IVeAb0xO5Wl_p13wqREZfj1uO9E1lv3hjpulXQ2b7R0S7dLPtjNw9Sbyhk4NENBDkTDYSVpFimC1GRbbmVtirFn1hIFiM0RohVBNl7-Bi3FUsQ06-1By38UdllYB7qGSvD-QMX3ErdQ_BEtUG5fyPKV2z9HKah?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mi0UIQzlSIGjb2Cli4lhXDJ0Itni8iGt6SecCKvZQp1VOsnpAiw1EUKGJziSa2bQ0KqScQBj7fsNFPLFf7JWWuA94AcQX6dvr7qiUz279Af5T7uN098nKv5ti7DKjvIH10Ay1okECplFNXvq-pPzBHeQA8XFPb69vj0VnYnpcq-ZbeF589TLPTew5RwWvISFr?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7hpXpM8VDQlKWB-1Kms_h4psHwil-pAr1-QKyuH-0nSRaOimkG10Bb0NcN6Rc3rXavMF84PZB_PTu7gMPEdCOPulhJUSJVqD8vwHujWm3GFGF3GkOOS1qIEUQMCXm_DSK1nfKmbp7kTxmaTWaZjOYW57pDi3_JaDCWcKXfML4WyQABiFxxPg2TmyybdoSrhc?width=576&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The tow hook I was dead set on is a product by RaceSeng (http://'https://raceseng.com/tug-ring#').
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqLdqnM2CLlK2e_GkJrDo1URa--YbQW_i9-zCKiJIQTrfrGBTplMZZSxUtejuePdvygyfrQcpUYbc95R5OLwd1aYiRtMB409ifdLd7ira1BG52yrRTFIw4guIE8w19zm1MpiskJlqH_1zdgEawu4RiJzyPob0pyyvUdGNv-E7Pum1F7eM7ETErhmlSNFuF8mT?width=1024&height=570&cropmode=none)
They make some decently high-end tuner parts. Their tow hook is a two-piece design so that the hook, which has a short universal threaded end that is M18-1.5...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkDWcCbnM_EXAtfN0Cmn8biXx6ZE0gw2-ojXBI3wk2FqNxVg2uiJH9F8hlCOpow5GrzGvIlJR8xkLU3sGOolE5I2GGjMhDnsXgxps9_C9KRBShpzLuhzd28_Gx1zZFkv3oYjMfllKQaT3pjSacRckQmRFEm74CR3uJNC2E2oUbM75hDHV4etwGOO_XDNC0mmH?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
...and per whatever application you have, order the appropriate tow shaft, which is specific to each vehicle. Well, needless to say, they had no application for our platform. The threaded hole beneath the tow hook cover in the front bumper is M16-2.0. I reached out to them, but they did not seem interested in doing anything for this vehicle. So then I tried to do a TON of research to see if any vehicle they did have had a similar thread pattern and came up blank. It was tough because they don't list thread patterns, but only part numbers. Had to spend a lot of time on Google to research.
So, I decide to see what i could do anyway. I ordered the tow hook, the GoPro mount (http://'https://raceseng.com/tug-view'), and a tow shaft (http://'https://raceseng.com/tug-shaft') for a Nissan GTR, as their thread pattern is M24 something or other. That was enough meat on the shaft (bring the jokes, ppl!) for me to do some magic on the lathe...I was determined now! LOL.
So the Nissan GTR shaft portion looks like this:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mxAAE8s2Krgm8W724PkrIjq2mdcOJSuoeZu9sk8qlncW_Im_HuZlrmYAK_CZuni2Fhwg01oKFDSFv2SEoXe3TlJ1v_2b0dWxr_QfxRtv_0865rAYyZx6vGG5s5kTpmYFuGv03e9EHFl0SlmZSHXX3vdrpo8XQ1DZ56ziozWOKEz1WfXLjKK-dOTnlMEHDFx6M?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Here is the part machined down:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m-CqeLo8yO70L4UeYhHvyWaLpcy-KkUm6IyPNnLLady7H1k-1bliz7BTCdhXhniKHUrXnreH4G2ZCsiz3iuASK_tmZQiwuyjqr7RfaOq4aCfxNx0AVqoaIHfqm8okt9jcGyihtq5b7a-8t2Kui0Z5ARTUdR37pNqhbMp6KH2PWy6c7J2efeeEKFzzzGWm3YDr?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
One issue is, the short M18 threaded part of the hook is too short to machine down and mount in the stock bumper hole, but when you add the tow shaft, it's now too long...I tried to machine it down shorter but would end up compromising the way the M18 threads into the tow shaft.
I thought this wold work, but when I installed it onto the bumper, it just looked ridiculous. It sat so far out away from the bumper. It needed to be an entire inch shorter to be anywhere near good looking. Sorry but I took no pic of that, was too bummed out my machine work didn't work out...
Anyway, I put the whole thing away for awhile and forgot about it. Well one day I was thinking about it again and something came to mind I had used on another application. A heim joint!! It would work, and probably better, but then I just had to find the right one, so I headed over to McMaster (http://'https://www.mcmaster.com/'), they are the SHIZZLE when it comes to hardware. Especially obscure, hard-to-find stuff.
Well, I pretty much found what I was looking for. The threaded part of the heim joint is a little on the short side but would work well enough. I took some measurements of other parts to see what additional hardware I would need. Everything I buy when it comes to stuff like this is 316 stainless steel or at the least 18-8. Better for corrosion resistance. Below is a pic of the shopping cart:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIMPqSnonID9056JLnwTLZH4Z2GMCFFns5lKi432aILDAaroe5gP1CBs6DJgIf0A5qV6SuwMQ5RsSbRR-2BvQqrlAP1r5SGgs14Oz1KTZmiAtxkaQ7PtGRiBq960guE1dg1Ftm8k3pazUASoEdF-5IF1n9ph3FeJ4MZtR7Spmgu8MVSOYhVhZzXEsFFVp7BCt?width=843&height=707&cropmode=none)
Since the bolt that goes through the RaceSeng shaft body into the tow hook is an M10 and the hole in the heim joint is an M16, I had to get the spacer and prayed it would work...here are the parts you're gonna need:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4ms-PEjyF58wFb5ZdxtBDL7QrNqv_hcfpnXDhuoire7NF-1OHP5J7S0M4401xONBzkxc0MI9OBFsTZ3-Ue7b2dXZEeHrYL0jnnXg7ALinmhoTgNhTzbM1O6jsQw6OALEY0p0deRMnTkmznF2UuZPNtZ8NphSwPVdXMDNQTii_AtHEtdKhD96sgD9ONNlHsZi1c?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
Yes, that includes the beer! Here it is assembled:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlxC_KU9fDdmsuG4QqtGFGeJBg_0WXZ6dIoZG-amGu7_ewRpObONV3YqOzcMdgfRftlF9o5r5h36l6eLJqlvPvzYc5GnoBGMfZAw_inAGEekpOvWMbAexBbP40VD2qwgkLeQPvmVxibi8mb-BvlR_GRJAoS5AjlUtEfy0FyOJhXTuw9wJhcg5k1tT3fw6gbqf?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
The only thing that sucks is, I couldn't use the GoPro mount...but oh well..ya win some you lose some. When you mount it, use some blue loctite as a double protective measure in addition to the lock washer. Hell, you could even use red loctite, but good luck getting that off if you need to remove your bumper, LOL. Here are some mounted pics:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2cRnmf_0Ag2JBl_7tApmyCRo_pNyHTfcYvZuzG0LqCk6u0Za1KLXpaZE3-1ghp6-qbxDtH27wLD8bg_kKBjcJY4PNiGCAMBujD4sTOty3b_Kxfump51yVThSwRn006QOsjVP6nSnW6oSCdoA43LSfbZqz26X9ca0a2oee2ph9GYp1_sDyf00tw8RjgOi56Zv?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The joint itself is very, very tight, so that is perfect! The hook does not swing around banging against the paint. It will absolutely stay whatever angle you put it. I've taken it up to pretty severe highway speeds and it is rock-solid. But it is loose enough to move around if needed. Caveat: I have no idea about actual towing. It's pretty tough but tow at your own risk. As I said, this was purely cosmetic, but I still wanted to have some quality product and not some cheap made-in-China part.
https://youtu.be/TnKizD9oHo0
I actually like this setup better than the complete RaceSeng setup for a few reasons:
1) I love the look of stainless parts..they just have that...aircraft-grade look.
2) Since you can rotate it from side to side, you can "lay" it at the angle the bumper sits/flush, so it doesn't look like its hanging off weirdly.
Anyway, yeah I spent a lot of money I didn't need to and for something that really will serve no purpose but to say "Hey everybody, look at me!!" LOL. But, I digress.
DW300c Fuel Pump AssemblyOriginal Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10578.msg159027.html#msg159027 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10578.msg159027.html#msg159027)
Just a short (by short, I mean LONG) and unedited video of the install of the DW300c into the hanger assembly. Pretty straight forward but there are a few things not covered in the instructions and some helpful pointers I discovered. Perform at your own risk. Definitely one of those "how the sausage is made" videos and if you have an aversion to cutting into OEM stuff, it might make ya squeamish, LOL. Anyway, just one way I found to skin this cat, I'm sure there are others.
Part 01
https://youtu.be/DvyKPBA4Kr0 (https://youtu.be/DvyKPBA4Kr0)
Part 02
https://youtu.be/_5zBe1TkhVE (https://youtu.be/_5zBe1TkhVE)
Part 03
https://youtu.be/_P6xhDk-Uhk (https://youtu.be/_P6xhDk-Uhk)
Stock LPFP hanger assembly:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mbeAzj-IIuQJekNXR4eRdZMAcO8EnTy2mS9UIQ6EQmrZrgsvyFno3SigVt7y4JTXWJSlDlvcdZGTmfVliyDb-unOaOBFUDiE4-NPtraEr_F8yitTHei8RlQQJVtiAGALmV6yFVfftkpc0gM0sR4VMejNoxgMZDcDDRPOFr1xtmD0lqsPpp_IUkEbwJjQuOaM6?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
DW300c (http://'https://www.deatschwerks.com/9-307-1026') in the box:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGX6O6jDnkRot-amovqhr-s8awPnNTVdpYsXEvmAmV3sdbxB0bqU320xszv4WT_Z5JSxiIIz2eIPIeOQBYmPvaEBW_ikn6WAwg5E_49z7hwDGYbUwXouK_cUE-zb0hIciK7bgz0cvTyYYij5F05c6UNQo_qqwPBcw8yme_GTwbW7WwfUfBnicMpCPGDfhI26h?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Some comparison photos between stock pump and DW300c:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4LCbqC3GmF8dzqVkER6WaSq62bfMzuMPJqd33oDaFKElg1fahhRVQOZL2uL7f1NjcoNArdUJzDB4NJu_FKNxiYdaLAVBiHl97tKa9UJmBD1bHqbgmkkTTugKWz1yG7-VRMNoOC4ogeyvF5dE_LnZ4NtzpQceQ0I_70Zd70tI5w4bPBH6Eq24uF0CIclNzR3j?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqHeFX_4rthGoHzTbRnEwCoFbnCgMV_GHe7Yg_OrAoOmeqsHrZwGCI-SnCGpGmbvByDAs59tilVRQEmYD4ukq8Gdh8Wveb7pHxmLTeeQEiWr8W44rpOrNiEO2ElkK_pwGTHrLFrs3oRrHU9IdzdyPuafX7STakYAUtNS5SWaAQhW-6e7WXPKVfL8uBu3f4j_O?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPu5xqRGEvj208nBhBCOfQO0BEaNXyKcGh9B8LZqCkq18QTMbDp0kiU_DzphwDz1aZH86yS4ILJOAhTQMWDYLYgiDGHiojWEmBGIDJCs_5ki_nKlOKyV1smC_aeUL_WwhflmDf38QpCYS70NYCvsLMH4fw35elvFtsLi4SxrFckl6chq5q4F85A0obqotraeq?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Comparison photos of the stock filter sock vs. what comes with the DW300c. In the video, I show how you will have to slightly modify this part to make it fit right.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myBxfDXqPLc_X211oiCqfwSROHfHPvylw1IDLp3gxDy4zUn6e2h8Mc27HwB1_eBPYgIcLNRHgUEmaJshB20Msa5GlIR1nGws9COr-0M5RU7KXyHd9Bfldd1kOJo0jH1Se9LwRlUgnHKi2ctDTSBnY909zxxwnln_k5NHjN5Tsl0BB1UVafhcraPV7ER875UIj?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4ml3JXdlupCR463BGcr--_RnzvhrpBMftyTw1UVekWIXVK3SCe6Wqrw4p8KQv946mD7qpgrtLHJjB1OKYQ4H2qxBxUy6SCfbKE2BZBzcjPcLXdsUvFFu_ikBKAgshbJyjTYrm1KHlDWgxv4c2xchP1dmGhMlMIGUV0QvzeHC9jlPfgKd6UbMde8vcbwm2O-Sev?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhbVxj8nJrrrD-sksNOCx0jKG0kOqkb_ChvfjszQi5wx4HMUaL_8159Kz6ux0C2TeP9lnhN9gnYwfFzqi3bskIJvK7TO2iA1zx4yfwMDqnkaTNX3oPrWSW4k59RUupyqMqilJ4Kq_-FjG7Gx90hPYsKZELP9FssMORdZcWMkKJMlfKrF0JjzGIgETPaNyp0FB?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mgFieL6VSG2xzxGoVTB5Hmk9tew3f4jyhXxh45D_J7AWfeIK1LjhLTfamc1HRb2UXgRYvaKCReYUW46Lpr0xiv80MhSvkxYuQUR2nVFTmKLcr3bWR7Nq9dZXt7QXqBu2XVBFubjFoS3KQvQRc-43MoeuF80cTsTO82ZawvF_keLgh6wssxcF-3ho1qVjyyyRn?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Silicon plug to keep the plastic shavings out of the pump internals when trimming the inside.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDqy1dUt2xmYi6Iz8ET6MzekW9ChOkz9MAc9w-ezqmee3UaJCkoj-dHjnarN4LBVhqjjKK59DJSsJAk3NzwX2htVPYRqmr7KEg3IwBKUGUOKPni-hOx6F3bhEMXQ-ONYwQziEC9qwuEqil2LNlI--rvlbzvlhh_6j9L2nDwKPL7DFEkvN9gA0GO_FH1X-SRJn?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Video showing how the DW300c doesn't fit right into the filter sock. This is before modification of the sock assembly.
https://youtu.be/HV0_Tvyd5lo (https://youtu.be/HV0_Tvyd5lo)
A few more close ups of the wire connector (Toyota PN: 90980-11080 (http://'https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~housing~connector~f~90980-11080.html')) I modified in the install video.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mR47rP8wrL0QuJNrE0vmThvuCOarGwXteYD9rET_GsH8rBhjF19GJb9mtIpEsTtFgmNgbFrByC74kQ7T6SSXaOpaoL21u13Q_Y9RwELgObl9pfmedd_vD0FiWYxe1cchDnQtYrt03Z8sct1NniqFkMq6mDhfBYH5aN-NpoTU427TKtTb1DksHs-do5l6Bu8lj?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Links to the pins/splices you'll need:
- 090IIU-SKT3 (http://'https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=809')
- FCS-4-2 Tin Plated (http://'https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1018&category_id=64')
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4ms1oL7d9mOPL70hxyBcMukMpxFB_UQ8KvSFAWrxwLAfHCHq3OT8pk6_9WPLS0uUqFDoSeHq0PEabfMiZp6Uq-_xXJ6O2h-LX9AOpljSQrXuSmOzR-H9i-RzTVYiOPwedNVL-MeN33b8vP1aXV7V7sjZI-MOkyxe-O2ujMTa2w2l81cWhxuQKXyfJofSikZM6G?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmR-AlybA-7coLu1Jw6HrNjAI_lXRR91UgKYXq3PAXxh5Z-7lvmi9fJpp9y-cIV5q4bFh0udFwfge5tukSOy11dFigL2r3Epd5avZxh9-Tr3OaL4IB6bEIJnWoE-nbmO_Y-ARh547-TOAAU0zgRt9XqxtPSWO3EkfzI7d68ac1E7sspOcJ2rvsNCUBFZyHhej?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's some extra pics if anybody wants to know details on the fuel pressure relief valve that is inside the hanger.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2wojpIMvHNBsItRUb65t8qNt_rSBAaBYN6lcuyDbtmp_R19TZ44hec0Lc3QHbZ9V7VlmPir7Y5bHtjGI_fwAepRjBRWw8X0Ye81D9FvpcOtJ4dvHghMujPiAjZO7e_4kQv0PZPnhW-QVfZh_2yM9syhSwDpjHeOHZvnE4N1EZ4db5OFgtHAxSgB7IakH1eyO?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mj3rDN5F-EV_vxB4x_MknHTlIse6HfLkHTLP9mey_mEG8F9y2rrRCeVJUSsX8e1kwmhg5lnrmABEvlodzQft9fYEW5ox400aaBYSSaUrALOgTzK0W9BDdGRmEiuTTsrNBRssld1nsv3fTqF6-nqMn2UgvAAiUoxvxU4RCb3a3MGJfTvNV7PmWN8iv0v3UoynG?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muJw8b8nMKOyggK_c6bQ52ZIVLBFwVpRpFKxFZfNfAh51SUdit4dL_W9PIKHfEnPMxrUov6sayr2qJnSVdUTCjxcbaM-BesELLP_uoy1FnYMhren4OQ0MjjsoSw_7UPNk-lQ6nFAMGzyN5pfxm3Tw6gXVch43TC2nvHnbFwTUX0PKsf6ZvXnbhPvtow6hRfXA?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAWRgK1HdIIu0aKQobagmJewQNZCYQ0bASRoHQrFvKptNaYs8gJCcKN6u2n15CU3Nu-i1nyDX5IcowlPv56Q6xLrkMow7hB3paS-Nun8oKWfMMWppUoA0NI2t2UfUenBMdCG-RZeiegsrc8lFwV6hI7-cE1f7Z6ot5LADeKJFaIoVYfdBn6uYjNI0EvT2e6CW?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Weighed Vehicle
So for years I wanted to easily be able to weigh my project cars...accurately. I've done the recycle yard scale thing, but I always felt it was too vague. Not that it doesn't work or that it isn't a viable option, I'm just looking for more accuracy and easier access to it. So...step into the ProForm 7000 pound Slim Wireless Vehicle Weighing System
ProForm 7,000lb Scale (http://'https://www.proformparts.com/product-detail/67644/vehicle-scale-system-wireless-7-000lb-capacity-1-750lb-pad-4-pads-hard-case')
I got it for what I felt was a decent price. Who knows, maybe I can start charging a few bucks a pop at car meets for people to weigh their cars and make some of my money back, LOL...
Anyway, here's the case it comes in. It has rollers and all:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mcR7UPEHHDsDMTCiH_7EOn3Vvnpisb94uCr3VwzEuuisetYZGlOg5lr2_cs0HX-DYUX03Nm4QLX3jv9s22y5Tq4y0f2RfPc2msHGmKK9Daq7_50iirzu3CXZMQmloPtjFF1YozyqnONu8tb-DTUZFHy9kwWE4DddR1UJ_hfDqHtxv-TIqUNPVSwwYBluvvLQI?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Inside of the case:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNg6LjpwzQPsy-KMIyeaifiuy5O0VhQDTvlPhA1rdMu6nraFefBqT_9enVegBWI5AGUieZm38QWw-yCUxTDmW0EkvftAmz4v60jhcxB0lSZ1crwwVliwI3P2Qhg8jQZYSuYpyyweSxQsslV2KOJJY5ODtJ9Zgl-7LJCfAGYoZGK9PI9x_2zTVPxuItY78WEWF?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Weighing the vehicle:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSgRai6yST6GklXEn0M5oig9uuhfaG28j5p83MPqJHPaT0Em4Nzzb_aHypZLx5q3SewdY_-rqWtQs8IXdDVT1I9rPhNRIer-kD26WbcTer2B1AxFXeUHLOfSKfXKA6af4KYmNMzJv98x3mQxk_wKSUcgl-MPWVYytzqSaBtvFJTvu3g9QsmgjwwPaRTYUZJ4w?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9f-zycpIktfWm5ORjjvJZObnysjd5jJHNDcXxYQc02oCxTbIigWekM7PsLxLmzkeTRwBsPr2DwdHgwfQsAozdNfgsBQV4x9IH8kBJN9E7ei9v350Gksmb6HeJNnXGs8_zAM9xuiIoW_Gx931JORCrpUp0HJD5dCifTl6m2pBzfDv3we9WfO-OaXEWaTm9xTC?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
And as of April 18, 2020, here's the weight:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQmyT4qQVO-zbKWmh2iIbjAfo8CISZgLLuHoc_lk_3JUja23yNL4vkHNPLO_3xEcDs1B8k3vMjF7v8MFep6PhqkY19m0JaZMZ8oDt6v7yqdgNT4dhsX1OagEMHheVAqzZgJxDouYIDEsgZ36h9T7TLhZ5NumbbikJBJ3vuU481Y2KrpZggIKYNUSV3RostIvJ?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Pretty awesome...I'll update from time to time as I do weight changes. But now I can input my accurate vehicle weight into various apps that use it for calculations.
PTU ImprovementsOriginal Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10582.msg159035.html#msg159035 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10582.msg159035.html#msg159035)
So, this is my attempt at doing what little we can to improve the PTU with what is currently available. I'd also like to make it a resource for those of you looking for detailed photos of the latest version of our PTUs (which has the cooler). I've completely torn down the PTU, and sourced all brand-new seals for it. I will keep the photos at max resolution so apologies for their size, but some may find it helpful.
In this photo, looks like the vehicle is beginning to experience some of those dreaded PTU failure symptoms. Last time I was underneath the truck, I saw quite a bit of oil covering the body of the PTU, and soaking the portion of the exhaust that sits underneath it. It hasn't failed, in that I don't have any drive-ability issues yet, but it is coming I'm sure. I will say, that I have NOT been proactive with changing of the fluid. Not because I'm lazy but because I was not aware of the PTU issues until very recently. Call it my ignorance on it, but regardless, I'm glad I caught it when I did. It's a 2015 with just a hair over 30K miles on it. I don't drive it much, believe it or not, this is pretty much my dedicated project car.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIxZySdIfRaiuk0mJvyUFS8jhMkTqJ_RxCZyJgq971A6YShd5Uy3C-BkGnKQvNUDdBqTlXE0et6ZLBO4EQF-fXOCeUAfd2CgXTHMHvVPfvoUd8pa7utpp8SXAPVIWGR7Vum5suOT-E6lvvu0uYo6Zn6Xw-5pMs8v4lHl99Zs25x-1PxLJ3F62IJTMfw8gotMw?width=576&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Anyway, being the consummate prepper that I am, and wanting to keep downtime to a minimum, I went and purchased a brand new one before I am even taking the old one out.
Ford Part Number: DG1Z-7251-F
My punch list for things I want to accomplish with this:
- Change drain plug to bottom of case in order to ensure complete drainage of fluid when performing oil changes.
- Extend hose from vent to top of engine bay to facilitate future oil changes and fills.
- Send all gears and cast components to receive WPC treatment (WPC Treatment (http://'http://www.wpctreatment.com')).
- Send all gears, cast components, bearings and case to receive cryogenic treatment (Nitrofreeze (http://'http://www.nitrofreeze.com')).
- If possible, research possible higher quality bearings to replace existing ones.
- Apply gold metallic radiant heat reflection material to outside of case.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYZkX3vwj3T0kATkjKY1LotMkkWcBF1Ryga9i6D9B_0xvYOD_KWFr_LOIRazJdZJ9xgB70MyxqKHleDiXKQFUd_2bRRvXKx0EBW-iuPutHnTVklA49MsvkzmXMyv13ftbgiOEzYOPg-7K8P7M_QFPD1KsxkRmIlGu7CoxKZGtoNGo1nqYpZcDRguEnCQ83Veo?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mP1TvN6z2NwWdCSQo6ZyJPYZLwXmhdfM9fy-5wbHiskwU-8J3gOFaWig206swg7Wgx3JNxfWyseHkBbkUC3e6EdDc5ulBYz5FJw0HwFcjat6qdHcf-47wXarTfTByojQVfn36fUgLjqkZ95ZNCSiz0NJA9RPA_n9GiRvT_p-yC5I3drAP73JXu92BHHOlbn5i?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mI5H2sGoaxpIhm24Gd5eFuUnWmKR9vICr8m4poKXy4pHS84XdbaVl0qCjb30AhHwjxYnh-XeqXJh3fv2sG7LjQ774zF4L3OnFimlnF5fOTZJtNrr_iSkRNrUIberqu6nZJHIHE7cKvIEwhZtajdOgVeyRqeIxYKoiISUodo_UFtLrL_d-_vsIIhiU4as6IG8h?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtSYR1UfytTUzcUbM0E-PH1nN45Z26I8ZwL6V3iXcWX-KiJ4fH0_SI6QsTR7r4gZD4BO3DToM2zEuqLQ-Yzj15w1bUuvpQtPTDfR-slocmjiFhXxszs_KZwUHeZEBjL9DNX6Upn2XBRDtIg4gOoZSX4q-l7qzwsKrToh3iTg01nr2bRPwBxez9A7F8LROyn5Y?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mpzYl5mygwQ9MEZEkvZDwLaoCDBm9AgI5UM2nVAyvzVBlS8H_oFzbJtm1VTRKD8X4syzjAP6myFXVl3TTEgtDRU8W-8Fcsfd4mqiEI3q9kCIHq35wlxQfjyJHG-dwopQLvlEmaBhEcoopbVNXDioklHYYBw_WJImdjpaPgYiBYo3yxn3hYGTko86ewJZAdyPM?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mC64teDwPr5q0lDusrKPmg-77ZF5yphkQsrx6TiGBkcwPzOth2h8JPQsLPB16z040-_4F75vcWVBwExuntmg6Brzf4ewnf0VkVm2S_DFKl7F3itoxFk1xdbIRDdNco4GhrBCPrTvHQyFWEAWsqyKbd0WjhsJ0Oy4or_QQDt0T6HWCP8nr4P4zVtSABabfjnzS?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4meI7WdOQh4PgtyDVk3Aj5Ml23qhDY3sY6srWfyf13GivSLiP2aCS5rBkofV4Dq681HvYN6m-Qly6GSLTliPr3OX98c65SKUl2wCf2vADlQftylTNHziq6ucsNtEbFFcqbxYIFndxbRbGhVeIGa9UL4CBwtEQXahAPzJUiV-xldfrOVVKZ_XyypH6QjLOYHrIo?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now I want to say, I truly believe if you have an older SHO/Flex/XSport that doesn't have this cooler, you COULD make this version with the cooler work. It would take some effort, but I am certain it could be accomplished. You'd have to buy the hose:
Ford Part Number: BB5Z-8A519-G
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlPbe71lVxQy9EjZWmY-NEuIJl3Qwk2RMtj2kSjp0M78WOLT8n8-s6p-Q3t2WZf-EI4iBOQfcaABon3SwV9C9XMUPH1Zdvz63bA9oj6G62AflB690wOyc-gb-VyfEFPzl9eE2tZSYbMGGq79-9ydhTVNPV9Hmh_LBMm4bTo61b-_-7DXNKeLJ8rrPNsv7peQH?width=1024&height=592&cropmode=none)
Then run your lines through an aftermarket pump and heat exchanger of some sort. It would be a pretty trick setup if done right.
And for those of you wanting to do just that and get REALLY fancy by using the included temperature probe to wire up to the pump or some sort of temp gauge, I think I did some of the legwork for you on giving you some data on the output of that probe and how it correlates to temperature. I figured since I have it off and I have the tools to do this, I'd pass this onto you guys. What I did was use two of my Fluke meters, using one that has temp reading capability with a probe end right next to the actual probe itself, and use the other meter to read the resistance output of the probe at various temperatures. I created those various temps using ice water then boiled water. Dipping the end of the probe into the liquids and taking temp recordings at various intervals. Here is a simple spreadsheet showing the results. This may help those interested in the scaling of this particular temp sending unit:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msZdx5fSEMGANQ02vKpl00Nbg3cpp3jH7BiBS--7E_1Of-TgPcu5iyAdbgWQuaMWCikha5tiISaDi0llC6uwN6O-PccWltx6uuCcccbAcX753IqSq1-0cgvK697oWyhitJMI3II09CoLL8XxpM7u0KQUrjAEwa_2Iu0_-CnyAp0H4QQn8kYzxjzPl6DpaJr3d?width=210&height=535&cropmode=none)
As I disassembled it, here is what the cooler actually looks like. It isn't very complex, I wonder if there is any way to improve it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mP8fotadL-2lbvho267GMpgotDVfW2snotEdc3cIpTdmXr71r0cbr_yYPLTA_Ey41oXYAliKCEx1CBtwNF0CsvrUgbLTpfgl5u82MATsSRVFUT2yYOEWTZqN5aCivuJIhWfbEsudUgiVCidw_OkKVglN03APQF6fCbZQS84eVlR7W1aWzT2-8d7Rj_9Of9Gi5?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJha9Y2eraHooxyGSTx1gi43msNeSbX4YfdcpkXXP5wTPcl6eB1mq7F54ZHNdlLlfZ84fFYqqx58RtuaL2dg7oqGmyYwdusLH04IzE2OZpQ9bMwGzPq82YfjYLiKgIm14dJkCx8F5YCJjpJ4pOz8ULyUyJTZt3-PpOD2XhLSN0WPz_pUNmVElzOGRz48FajuW?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8DXOAZeIa_muVsviiaI1NvibDem3bsbUXPCfgy7lAv8Oqv-v8j394sDV-7vBj5R4tW_E09uhn4Omonvh2Mi5z9dTRY2HWU54nyNgxVJQPfpUBUjEbunzJhS1coDoNzseI9wn1CTDqY4iQ10En-Sd4vhh2ebvLYb7lIx-yGx8QWohtg1dYuNHiNYE6pyCxU-t?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
So, before I started complete disassembly, I ordered a replacement for every single seal, gasket or one-time-use part as I wasn't sure how much I would destroy trying to take them apart. Below is a list of all the Ford Part Numbers you will need as far as seals or seal kits go:
This does NOT include replacement of the cooler medium. The edges of it are rubber, but it was in good shape and I couldn't find the part number anyway.
Here's a bag of all the old seals after being removed. The stuff in this bag will be thrown away, but not until it's all done, LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4maQ3exHTZNaBwATb8u5rdH2vjkpv9_vwRbp_BEBxchbkfyahlSyj-nd_eHF96Im7xJc4rX3uxry7uOxOkddfm2h0xyYh5CHTVaGKlO1JD8wHTb5gB_Gsf2MtFuxueuvW62oK6WKRdX2OqV2lTCibT3KHhae9bL3vU_8BK_7_H88NG5AsHqGQhvx3tPdoexhpk?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
When you take it apart, make sure you have some sort of catch for the oil that will come out, as it comes filled from Ford. I have a large oil drip cookie sheet that I was working on. Worked great! BTW, I forgot how much I hate the smell of gear oil...
When you finally get it apart, you will find it somewhat difficult to remove the gears from the side of the case. In order to remove them, you will have to basically destroy the white end seal/plastic cover that is pressed onto the end of one of the gears. Make sure you get a new one, but once you do, don't be afraid to just break it, it's hard plastic. Once it is off, the gears will all come out one after the other.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mS-dMX1opMHUHL0abardqqm2rMDXvFlyfMf5FCgpK-1kR2Kx_AMHw5ouu2xqacHnz7tByZ2_i7Y8ZMR2LCEsJo_ajGqHceM5ZKHHofmTZipz5MV_N67KYaEXtTsU_cXM8-7bWXw1N9_zYJuRCyRf3jJmcTgktYTQv8DOtYF2fbWza7XJCznn920jzKb3tYOFd?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9lJLxu9lGMzUUq-gc1yDg3JwNicJjCA538j1eUavwfSmBxqqE8fiAIlrg_cRaxGWkHuycc-R4DRhwV6P5wHsxoOqSRWkvP49Zw6GY0LmCADskiQee_3o7U56p9JJ-77piHoONtob7nShaLV2W7Pvfqu67DR-hp9Te46a654k9ftcVg2kGzWKs2k0PMkcIoSp?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I just used an air impact to remove the nut off the end of the pinion gear. That nut will be replaced and is included in the new parts kits. Be advised, many of the seals will have to be destroyed when removing them.
I decided to remove all the seals as I wasn't sure if my disassembly would damage them at all and, more importantly, they may not survive the cryo process. So, when I send all the parts to cryo, they will be disassembled bare metal.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_xs85AMzLWZStia7WRQNFlcQWlI3KUmgdgL4NQ6E0-o75xEOM3Dn8gaZ3-98cakL8JOEfu0Lv33elD-1Ni3POo1iVzLx5cUkbKiLUHYpLdGePP0-BwAkmFIzxBcNca-teXqZ3nFPorLkfZKfRO2a4ploa7Faa8QA5SW_AokDc1iqqICBJMIx8HPTSjZjgWmX?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m00wsXL3Y18b0VqZVRiC2sreU9ySn41TTZn55jDyK4iVbBE2HuE6WR3rA-QXUcRX6fMQbv22wxh2xNdAQFrvANfi94JdG0KarxJLPHe2PdB85ljO0lIvi8McWGQIUGllxDwr4VPPGkQqKKNBSt0tWCO0i9N6oWHfp4Uc_bIGlf6ARbYt2N1oXbCLNG4M0kQtc?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7yjA1dGvglTlxp-pT2VEJWG9aSJwF1cG79AqevQpD1paP9P-8wAhmArP6Ls12Fd4SsavJdgiLFZOf-NNSGqu2_FZKV-R4_5Kr_jZbGRsBge_4s6t1Ck4GQ3eX_FCPAhnNOdQflh9V-XVj3DH8gWGDTiAs2Coj-TPOtMQf_uvxIJNcnnSlHCf2_yHsumPH1IZ?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mnqVSNcQ61166VbpIC_4-ueyWmLFnfK3r_ro3N6JmSMfSrtn0rZr-b_cXQ2jfJHnsJ9QB_XkdmmsvFjiAGnxz3O-ene0TbY_pj4N2WpEVAsfF4XGRcEwtiVH2UA0D9Lnhu4AWOvlNcwBB4KvrfyD32Z9llkYImA531Q5h5GsWlzJ26umfmau14njlKQNZZLux?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwbjlyZIPgwo2z-Pw2amUtjzXCx5ATdhwJXaIFlDKJGjYeZF_NN95toEqFGhhBchtwp55ZeicrDD5w65XDY9-kK9Le9GXG8NNMFckaE-K4xpnGxr-XK6TSHl1RwMvHj_-yRU1mpIvxD7H-4wVS2LB_tPBHrXVT6ivcbjZKeGk99IA992HqIAYJOMDopIxf2wL?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlZOx2FlZJmCp7wA6Xay6AQo47GQ_MY67cle0P1nEeow5y8P7eeGzfIxcbaPmUiPari1fThwJwcj4z3j28kjTRP2jam_UuHDuNayaHUE-KY-DQH0eCr-GzJQvGnu_UJNi-Tbe5MRsfjfKyLG8u-bm6RRjxFbewfRqvozNo-mqNKB6ACqINvMvb61RMRYadT_x?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As for the bearings. My goal is to try and source some higher quality ones, if they exist. I imagine Ford made some specifications for bearings they needed, then sent out the contract for the lowest bidder to meet those specs. Most of the bearings are Iljin, whom I've never heard of, but looks to be a Korean company. I've found some in-depth documentation on some of their bearings but so far, nothing about the ones within the PTU specifically. I'm hoping to find some equivalent or better versions via Timkin or Torrington, maybe some SKFs. I removed as many of the bearings as I could:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myzYSxLpoEtHQ6eVQMrvFajUR-cLUwPcahKz91VkuJ6QN_ljswoiWk2A0COGpEamYOh85ja1cx0zKy1zir34ehWEESPeLLBak_0cOyaIJxSGGNJv_JRal8xr6vE0H6t5b10m38sgriWYdeXIEZOXaE0XRehIL6ja6tuwAPWwoh0wlLodoQl8E5QJyEZ6qK_ad?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The only one I cannot remove was the one behind the pinion gear head. It sits in a recessed pocket and no puller can get behind it without destroying the bearing cage. Even though I will begin the process of looking for better grade bearings, I didn't want to risk destroying this one as it may end up being a unicorn bearing and not easily sourced/replaced.
ASSISTANCE FROM FORUM MEMBERS: If anybody has an old PTU that they replaced laying around and can take it apart and either send me the pinion gear with the bearing on it or feels like removing it (even if it's destroyed) and tell me what the part number is, I can better research it. For some reason, of all the bearings in this PTU, the parts numbers are not showing on the visible end. I think they are on the backside.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkTKo3UtnuXGHcWMK6WJy6_C5pS-MasLiHenXhz0PQ6Ke0sCDU7i-cKxGkgvHfo1IIpkpEa-Fh20JWCO_g-KfTYjoy9zcaTG_QMMWYJo1td4uvSeJyM1Xl94LPmj64umKqndfQgmJGiOB11vMQHU82BZ5A0NxrOdaxYSrU561L5zbdM2-Ae9ACQWsVLFBdXWx?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
ASSISTANCE FROM FORUM MEMBERS: Although I have some good resources for locating bearings, I am always open to "crowd-sourcing" this task. If any of you guys have a good bearing "guy", here are some of the bearing numbers:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzinkQ1WOcmgMspRjpsBc--XzfWT-kD4Cfva8TkLwIQuAV6IYDC7TL-sTEnA5JvgkJDYIFsGlOED990CygSOIyCZ-8r4-bGnWnH-LI2NcwfSsEVT6ho68XsrUsINGSWCfXNE9C-cKathe_9LT4X4qeOa0m1OymhL7niaWKFLh46pfkOEm9tLMtgzjTvpMYdHX?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDGsGYHdVgyXwt0zsTNx70sosVrIwfRSRQ4Eg9ZFDUUDhvKg-E8fB-mB6cv0s25MUDOW3ZVc1AyUUL_NDhgJF4lCZr0JXTo0H4joym8h2uIbaWxMhDW-15-NuksMQqv8cFne5pVpmUzMcil3hzMjM8Y6FAIjIL8rXhEE4wG34NVrfW90jqDB-u1RUDBRVRWDT?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCVwF1D3AnL0U1Yref9wDZ7epIURIkUj-o5X72fZejKsBfZJpOHz--cBunxULG7Ryce9LMeeRJ5W686W_V5R01LQnL9NV3epVZzFgLNPKOeVBMqpl1FBSRz-YznCAW_HvL-ms6093GPacWLxMwTVgZi0oN19RXrzfCg3RLvEGarDp2A9hnZy7jr0VPzWwoEgb?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_dIWg_wFyaQTYGI8vyo_PKTJB0oFUJpuwQhhzxO11uHPEUaYsCz4dg7O_cTWBivCdfTCSEPcpgtK4l5twVXC8xCpm3_rRR015tvTKv2q9SYDs7MK61e2z3TQtcPzBKhouzwE2yMLgzUwBqDr3jIPJoAVX6DSGJehdfKAOn94Ajp1TniP8eNTnlMQsRg0I1Bw?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLrQqBhldFFW_wdJXd-8e-CIwce6PuqNxPN8hUTvSlTZWvWI4ztJ1sMkQJ03FC3Vy59lhG6ZAiYmcMPpLGdHsyiSTMDTqtceUJ3PXRbsjz48u13hkJjyI1HGpkR-OxvH8JHa-4UfmGLQQKjBaK1Y9bMIMngbwDGcQMF78DUjL_3al9z8R26E_oMQ3vBw3MhBB?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m-aAZmzT5eI1lmAtDp_VgigX-XoqKVh_J6HYoimO06Lm05I3ndFkm6uNlTQMJmB0Lp53VYwVRq1Os7STehNbMx3A6v2yWPm17s8hrhA3nzGeRqnBWGHbGPyQXfDnmzSoWKhzLSzLGjfLJRnTmUbZAeJvKpEKvG0ay50saEZpnsg4caK1Y2rTt5o01E74w4GBr?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Anyway, here are all the parts I'll be sending to WPC:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtbsv4BI74pGSh6o7dmiR5dOwbhmydVrXy0aLK_XVsUYEE7sp9QgR7NDlpVGxfTQKSziUvCDr83M0kqLV88J_b1RQP908gyG3lJpfMFHjlrl1UNrmdrUwXDVdnRwnUa5kBxtEiylFQc_qR2cCqmdVrBeQT21KNp6nQgMiBN41a-APl0VtA-OPyCBeDL9itiL_?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I spoke with one of their reps regarding having parts with bearings still pressed onto shafts. Their response was, although they recommend removal of all roller/ball bearings, they CAN still apply the WPC treatment, but it is absolutely imperative that a very extensive and thorough cleaning job be accomplished on the bearing prior to installation. They do ultrasonic cleaning, so it should be pretty good, but I also have a high-quality industrial grade parts washer I will put all the parts through as well once they come back.
The cryo treatment will be performed after the WPC treatment and I will include every metal component I can for that one. It will be sent over un-assembled except I will re-press all the bearings back onto their respective location. I use a bearing heater prior to pressing them on (it gets pretty damn hot) and don't want that to cancel out any gain provided by the cryo treatment in doing so. I will do final assembly and seal installation after it all comes back home. There is no case gasket but looks like they used something similar to Yamabond, which I've used successfully to seal Harley Davidson Twin Cam cases. It should work fine in this instance as well. Then fill it with some Amsoil Severe Gear Oil:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mH4PWz3n-Sj5PyjZ0ncwkafvMJf4mdxlNi2RXDrEGwLcP8mVyB9LWeqtklhZELW3amYejD18HHwrPwSfsEqkm-d2uuGA8pogo-29048FLIy7Vx12OQ-zNoqvD57v7er8vWrLqCocS_aMw4Xfhw8vMLvcR0V6CsRsDK7PRWEd8xgK6w5XWp1U7gPeuM6oGmA2l?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And finally, the piece-de-resistance, the reflective material.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmFbJYu-BtJWlrd-7DOgvWSTzGqKkBjOpKm-GzcLtbKPOTT7OmlO308dGFT1no-VjS5_FfWnyB0koLLrl1_UAqtrt_1zYL4YZtw2jjWB4oXrsi1IryyuwU1rfqqc6vBfkNjy9YmKUPae8DJMHtxuEh_JvhgZ5Lzuk0zVMZ1L5qcqDuaiavKHv6rKO0Jxw--s6?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
My heart tells me this is snake oil, but my brain tells me that the logic behind it is sound. I figured, what the hell, what harm can it do. It really only works to reflect radiant heat, so not sure how effective it is in the real world, especially where I will be putting it. Anyway, just doing every small thing possible to keep this thing cool, which is really the true killer of this thing.
I know it's been said that regular oil changes can keep this thing alive, but figured I'd try a few additional steps.
So, right now, I'm getting ready to pack the parts up for the WPC treatment. As I proceed with the PTU build, I'll post updates...
Thanks!
UPDATE 01: Internals back from WPC. Now to press the bearings back on and off to cryo...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mj5iznNyC5pzZScZuS0QxV9UIcLaZsVqCylh9c1Q6eMGJ_yUVVVhJU85R1UThv_33srnAJJCNH9O5lQS9Xtc6W1A9SVe2MRfduiEmKIwqLRFfMjMZRUYIGHCgl_9qW75XB8tBmq23Z4C-Bd-ESE_MHKuW4pZ-dcDj-1EQVdhxYmAwQlk_-5Z1BEkak3OZ10IQ?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
UPDATE 02: I know the idea of using a small reservoir was being thrown around and that gave me an idea. I had this thing laying around and it was originally going to be used for my meth tank to be filled remotely. I got it from ProMeth. I've since gone to a different meth tank and never used this but it looks perfect for what will be done:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mV001E6POEhxiQu7TbZQwX7--n_dqwRyIm6RayILmDMxxRNv5KiJAxhIQNto-QzXirx1eCU0johRzUl8TVOtrN4DbCSqDUTVbhhLK8x_sQfQvC2QFn6Ot-8NTusD8xOJ08ObBSAtkl6GHCibCIc2feTzcWqGykCIYogai-6f42vX0YgidP-DOIFwIouyCbQfa?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I am also about to extend that vent hose, but...PLOT TWIST...will NOT be connecting it to the reservoir. I'm just going to extend it up higher, just to be higher, LOL. But what I WILL be doing is....drilling for another hose fitting. After reading about how long it can take to get the fluid down the vent hose. I figured the air is just fighting you, but if there was another line..it would be WAY easier. Not only that, but the hose fitting at the bottom of that reservoir allows for a slightly larger hose to be used. I'm going with 1/2" on it. with a 1/2" hose barb fitting.
This photo shows me mocking up where it will go, but that isn't the actual fitting I will use, the actual one will be smaller and stainless...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNMCvSJiF8CjEWeX9hMQHBkMYb11nt_H6pDsHI06DPOvzCQvXKnH0lKYD93Ki-ww94GLD8ZXwSBsjf2ZZ5lYZPtpCz2hZ2vaA9smc4gRXfWL6dZgJJZE-J_XO9EAUVCHiBrHlDD35IH1bRUjRCGQariXIkSTPD28rC-PF8IQ73w91nTqdIRPEpKH0AdaYMTOi?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
See...plenty of room inside the PTU for it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m93-m9xqyzxCxMVWBbL0b8TaAeEB4W94prRagLTmFZcaAxpgv4cFCuFgQMRh1CDaIi4uy7ll_byZ-SA3ouUnJyzX5aeZzNjrQLrQNfQ0wm3Ygnfer7WoxlJd8WsIUTizdBsMCNtY0pfuJMUr2dA0q5CZVgyH3C0aM8uWK6zGpUmIrFUyCeOP9zKJKxkgBwch7?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Anyway, should facilitate fluid changes more easy. I'll update when I get closer.
To Be Continued...
Tablet Installation For Torque Pro Gauge DisplayOriginal Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10736.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10736.0.html)
This is one, strangely, that I've had tons of people ask me about whenever I drop by car meets or shows. I wanted a good compact way to showcase some of the telemetry that is possible with an OBDII reader and the Torque Pro app. Figured I'd do a write-up on it in case anyone else was interested, but all-in, it got pricey pretty quick...so cost benefit analysis isn't really in my favor, LOL. But it looks great, right?
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mE5CcJcX8wSfKF15xLUYsIAAai-xEIkLY14RaiM5i8oQgqJBGLErEoP36VMVXnBnrjKtI5rx64JlrwpBK45q2N1W5j_ebvq0xqlVXqFKRpEm8x0ApzvEHXxSzgipfuRrQEKwjWOWYzGzWK0pFDp4OJLs_WHfo-UWT1n2vGjhTtSF5JjAyw-KuJapZDEVfCX9U?width=1024&height=505&cropmode=none)
Although the SCT Livewire I have is capable of some gauge readouts, I liked the format and customization of Torque Pro. Just pay for the Pro version, BTW. Its way more potent. Anyway, I didn't want to use my phone as 1) it would be too small and 2) I didn't want to tie up my phone while driving. I wanted a dedicated screen for it.
I really like Torque for this purpose. You can read many of the PIDs the vehicle sends and also create your own "gauges" and telemetry based on calculating values from various sensors. For instance I use it to calculate Boost Air Density (BAD) from Manifold Air Density (MAD) and Ambient Air Density (AAD) (side note: still trying to nail down if the results I'm getting are accurate, work in progress for sure).
The app does have some limitations and I don't use it for legit datalogging I need to do for tuning purposes. For that I use the SCT device and a laptop.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6rxa8zbiskXeLV90Zm3tHQcX1hzGYRQUq-5_Jr56FL2k0Zp3K_sDbTp7KpobhCiBGfSH0MQmrcGGp35rhfq5fXlueFFUqIE6hssRzVW5ON2O9PKeqqiI3mnBVdBsKisJWiF9h3bbCR92s4TQlDTfdmkvaWZhOSZBZUQgEIytQHCNLfgB2m6gfhh0hgkAH0Mp?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5CT5M6jEmjG4z0ps5eao3Etdv8nLUq1bmH82F-Wc--JHalPIy_9guS8Cp0XuOzmhQ44ne74YXXwEtd43JHprwDq58lc3oDf77rbS8L4ldcwXIxX2pAStLTLpZl3eXclQguLv35a2cybcoKw6g14kz-eAp8zeZNekELUFYmS9rH05InD_WUn9H6lzcJfNOP4c?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
That mount is created from a few separate pieces from various vendors. I got the actual vehicle mount (http://'https://www.proclipusa.com/product/804794-proclip-left-mount') from ProClip USA (http://'https://www.proclipusa.com/') as well as a 15 degree wedge (http://'https://www.proclipusa.com/product/215964-15-degree-wedge') to give it that angle toward the driver's view.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m-6Xa4vgN2jToxAtC6l5jNlCPp9_FnAVCa5Q5OZiGg9Pw-JzI3U31iftIwcF5skVsQt9G4MzQ3lDutiujgqG7zX7c4bgUTAYsNOUuCn6rcA83QcrcWJz_UrPEwASyN30pLHL8EDuUQigrjqLcuqHv9ay0fWOfvdyPk9HrEJrIJmbUALiCYOu1yUga7_DZr8FD?width=573&height=430&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4SmvBe9WHyYJ-Cy5nw69dSlPDlNwkJuiPQ6XgUeGerFTqalHffclnYHo1qdSiB8cir3Ic0WRtz4e7ODIbRpmQX7JtU6sRnTy-FUD_WtpXHANGdpH3cS1NhvtoMqdNiHdZevb2K66U_tSHvMYeFaD5PQAS6HnB1nhPm4xwEMpYfBZmafYGKISHKpEcbjmvq0h?width=600&height=321&cropmode=none)
I use the RokForm (http://'https://www.rokform.com/') system on every vehicle, motorcycle, work truck and bicycle I own, which makes it easy to interchange, mainly my phone, between the various modes of transportation I use. I wanted to keep the theme with this device. I like the RokForm system as it looks less obtrusive than gripping hands around an object. And it's VERY sturdy.
So I tried the RokForm perch mount (http://'https://www.rokform.com/products/motorcycle-perch-mount') and it worked perfectly. What's nice about this is, I can remove it to get the device out of the sun, or when parked at the mall or somewhere i don't want prying eyes to see it.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDOm2oYlz0jBHHaamTg6PjzEy1fj7FKnzO0XCnokgeWECEwSaaFplB8hBk8N7xatw_J9U6XpXOq1ntgzBkjSIrkqNQrP7VxGVF-4pbUxhfcQry8FsGFypRTwHOxihVPOXtBv2Piokh2fQBlBSLCCdvD4PgxRj0_jpxJFm0QEHfjtQ8QlynRRXp0CxyKFndgMP?width=800&height=800&cropmode=none)
Also, whenever I have a device that doesn't have dedicated RokForm case, I use their universal adapter (http://'https://www.rokform.com/products/v3-universal-adapter'), and that was the case with the tablet I am using:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mq3jncZkTNT1qI-AX2PRcJlMv3i3S6BWrwk8rz0ZJVM2CE_ULwrVD3_9Pe6iXNVg9GupDz6EvqjtVTB0S5agF15jeER9-rwb5cdiAj7wK9c0KeGKbu0_DzZ9EUmzSiX-Wx-KCXSem6BYkUvyFfzbIwXYTBg-4YtbiHSGoO_eXDPAUU5SQxKiUo2EbzKNjC7z2?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's everything installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4misLpZrBPDXvFBdK9SD_2A1Fj4g0RtYWoUbxBkW4tEtoTWrQRlppg9lgYOJe-7VvYX4oZlA6KZ0xfZTQjpEmS0E2nMyqC0Ra6tRPc6sbcMBLyN3Ms91NiY69jVaaqRSLWnL69J4BnHYmZTJBWUuBsz9ZII6TaEBU2EKyDSU6PEDDWVfhGytK4ZMxco4329tUb?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As you see in the pic, I broke one of the tabs off taking the tablet off too quick one day. I've since fixed it as the RokForm stuff is completely rebuild-able.
The screws I used for the perch are some countersink wood screws, as the hardware that came with it are machine screws. The 15 degree wedge is made from plastic that is meant to have wood/plastic screws form threads into it.
For the tablet, I went with a 7" Galaxy Tab A. It was the right size and cheapest priced tablet I could find:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mo1T_UTVCue6jQfmwA4HiOek5XRzmJlCJZ4j7HMF-68kIA7ccChBphEZ9pF_eehKkfT39qdPLXlyBiktL8bb5K8GlKbFys8B7vh_X2hJR2WGAk5_6-i5CiL23VrpR9yu0N_gy9lVgS7rgswFvG95AlGdJye-uPZ9DXJBizXGr7hsnv8XvPyjLclhsS1ly-wZa?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the back of the tablet combined with the universal Rokform mount:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmYudVyqziNp_TTYTducL1_RPhzMAf6brZ3rPdz_A7Yf9-Ublz0ozxqadwYep5cD4yKTM-VbSSqL-0EU0kKK9CnSBeMxlNdRuuWW0qODJhnkR_fJDX4lITDlD626qSgzqAJTDibDMGjBVZV2Ab-jciuUYT1qg2TOa4muT-HXdGAlaAa-vUHH77DB3OsWdM02K?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And to ensure I was always getting power to this thing and not having cords laying across the dash, I hard wired a USB Kit (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLZVG6J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1') I got from Amazon. I ran it behind the dash and tapped into the in-cabin fuse box that feeds 12VDC constantly using a multi-fuse tap adapter (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079PSSCYF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1') from Amazon. The fuses in that box are low-profile mini fuses but a low-profile tap adapter doesn't fit in that location, so had to use a normal mini tap adapter and use normal mini fuses in the tap adapter.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLTZeN56BZgfszfnUaXQAUbTpejsR0YpM7-SiGzzq3J2cBwkzDPQd3buNV7JF68bZ-zyjbINIWSKKkzffWiZpP-QiVubIpgArWGqEOlXg-sKrNoTmJhxfiMvXXp28cAP2WEnTZ9pmJD84ZKM8oZODujfE1NjcuU7CWGCd0FT7-tQxKN2cPXwcvs4qO64ps_XI?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mHhEtQzbqr_Vm_q_MaHr-gZwrnRxFcTpagxWWrmH86X8PmTsVQYlr8mNkzPwgWHDrnQxM2UykovzoL6AGX-7rjcRbj5X1OKsCL5lit6x-z2hJRUYpv-aid1NST4bKLKWNTulzFSvwddyBTh3BNvIdRzj2lvmOVHCChHPZzNTK4RRAisYg-tTOiEGGmKhrgE1F?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
In this model, the F6 fuse slot is an unused 5A hot-at-all times slot, so it was a good place to get 12VDC so that it could receive power even when the vehicle is off.
A good side view of the setup:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQCAGndaQJ5Ax_5rcWXd_2WhAng3C8Hqf_Ap7SXJoIWq6FmSFL5tqINSzBbGVF4spEn-Wsbhw1wjt5hnE2_pprvmQDFsALXXUKRFRN_RH3hbDVQXN-Pud1jKRdPcbOrjkezU-GWC6vOfMv2UUvVHdWgrzmjao72W9dSFJqlOGoQN7xgci1P6B-sWNNc8bJi1b?width=572&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And lastly, the OBDII sender:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moW0oYLhg7ZBSOSC6_RV6XapMrHFbXslZybm_LLMKkHn6nfWCsIDQAREdUdfSNdI3Jz2jfdg8-Ch-6Cjgb3u-DhHOJKl92T6aoecZ3ME3t0v8aUzCcjw_NiV2hYWCsomdul2Guq7IA6YD4abvbhok-JQwyVmOzTI7WVmKTx3qhbjO7HVLpYbmh9EHv-thI5Zb?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
There's a lot of variants out there, but the OBDLink version is probably one of the better ones. Some of the cheap knock offs don't work right or only read either the low or high side CAN. I just went with the better one.
Just bluetooth to it, open up Torque Pro and you're off to the races! I love the gauge setups and all the various things that can be read.
So as I mentioned, by the time I was done, it got REALLY pricey. I don't think I've done this yet as it would scare me, but I'll do the math for you guys:
- ProClip Mount = $30
- ProClip Wedge = $12
- RokForm Perch Mount = $100
- RokForm Universal Adapter = $20
- Galaxy Tab A Tablet = $200
- USB Hardwire Kit = $13
- OBDLinkMX = $80
Yikes...total comes to ~$450 for a custom gauge setup. TBH, I've used the tablet for a lot more. I've used FORSCANLite on it, I've used it to record dB readings in the cabin, etc...so it's served some good uses and all-in-all I'm pretty happy with it.
BBK 70mm Throttle Body Improvement
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10580.msg159029.html#msg159029 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10580.msg159029.html#msg159029)
So Lee at Ortiz Performance hooked me up on a VERY quickly shipped BBK 70mm throttle body (http://'https://www.bbkperformance.com/mustang-v6-70mm-throttle-body-05-10.html') (yes, it IS from 1 2005-2010 V6 Mustang). Been thinking bout this mod but was never 100% sure it fit until I came here. Anyway, got it and test fit it to the IM I have sitting on the bench.
Although it is an awesome piece, there were two small details my OCD had issues with. 1) I'll be porting the IM just that small bit to get it to match the TB, but have some concerns about how close it comes to the ring-style gasket groove if I do that and 2) the bolt holes where a bit larger than the hardware and just fit very sloppy. If you ever wanted it dead-nuts centered, you'd kinda have to eyeball it and tighten it down. Well, I figured I'd address issue #2.
I had some 5/16" OD 304 stainless tubing laying around and decided to see if there was any sort of "dowel" setup I could do. Lucky for me, the holes in the TB are EXACTLY 5/16". The OD of the tubing was soooooo snug (insert joke here). And the ID for the hardware sooooo perfect. So only problem was...the recessed holes in the IM weren't 5/16". Well, tubing was easy, measured what I needed and cut a few pieces on the lathe (you only need 2 to center). Unfortunately, the IM doesn't lend itself to be easily mounted on a table for a mill, so I had to do this one by hand...just took a 5/16" drill bit and sunk it in about 1/4"-3/8" deep.
Slapped the dowels in place, and fit is perfection. No movement whatsoever, centered exactly to the opening of the IM (which I will now port to match) and all this with some extra tubing laying around and a quick turn of the lathe and some careful drilling. Viola!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCgBoKlOUQ7uMtAP2cTD9Os5vGiV9GJNU3xGv7900z6XCyVSoJ1m69APHEGymm1KJq5AFJhQrRIGI6kJ_t3_5TPM_wHHjYohgvoSBvXo5_fpdkD4o0s7QJ5veWdcQgHpgoXP1BHJh-NeL04dnCmfGX99s0ntKEphY2yA6TdS-Yg2cOozw8vro1DGdmTeOBe4I?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
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BBK 70mm vs stock. Stock is 65mm, for those who were wondering.
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https://youtu.be/Lc5ka4Ti9Y0 (https://youtu.be/Lc5ka4Ti9Y0)
Custom Exhaust Completed
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10584.msg159042.html#msg159042 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10584.msg159042.html#msg159042)
I pretty much went straight pipe all the way back. No cats, no mufflers, no resonators, only an x-pipe. Results are interesting and I'll be running it through its paces to see how it does, power-wise. I am finally able to get away from the last bit of LMS parts I had on this car (full turboback system), or should I say re-branded Corsa system, LOL.
A guy named Alex Gutierrez who has a shop named Big Head Motorsports. Super talented welder. Only online presence he has is IG, check him out at Big Head Cars (http://'https://www.instagram.com/bigheadcars/?hl=en'). He does a lot of high end drag race stuff. And his shop is 3 minutes from my house...that was sweet! I'm going to tag him to do a lot of my future work, i.e., turbo manifolds, IC end tanks (since no one makes any IC for my platform), and maybe something trick with the intake system.
It's 3" all the way to a set of 3" bellows, then transitions to 2.5". There's an x-pipe right after the bellows and then out to the back and ends up with a 4" tip. Used 321 stainless on the test pipes as it retains heat better than 304 stainless, thus making the need for ceramic coating unnecessary. The system is 304SS for everything past the bellows.
But make no mistake, this thing is pretty loud. However, drone is non-existent at cruising speeds, it isn't raspy at all and has a good bass and tone to it. It's just LOUD when you step on it, lol. Which I don't mind so much.
Anyway, the quality of workmanship is out of this world. It's built for performance and maintenance will be easy with all the v-band clamps used instead of slip-fits and flange joints.
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https://youtu.be/ZD0wzXDkUOQ
Some sound comparison videos:
Corsa exhaust note, cold start idle:
https://youtu.be/PMzTLH0Mp60
Corsa exhaust note, driving:
https://youtu.be/fpIfed9kUlU
BHC exhaust note, cold start idle:
https://youtu.be/mpvaCy05IAM
BHC exhaust note, driving:
https://youtu.be/b6TYHorveQc
I used a GoPro Hero6 Black utilizing the on-board microphone and mounted to the vehicle here:
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For the telemetry, I used the Torque Pro app and used a screen recording app on a small tablet. Editing of the videos was done only to get sound from the GoPro to sync with the video of the tablet.
Bilstein B6 Shocks And Struts InstallationSo, at the time of this write-up, the highest performance shocks/struts available for the Explorer platform are the Bilstein B6 (http://'https://www.bilstein.com/int/en/product/bilstein-b6/') model line. It is a step up from the Bilstein B4 (http://'https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product/bilstein-b4/'), which is their OEM replacement line.
I finally got them installed after a nearly 6 month wait for one last front strut. Seems there was a shortage nationwide as deliveries from Germany had been delayed, likely due to the early COVID restrictions. I had ordered them through Summit (http://'https://www.summitracing.com/') mid-December of 2019 and got the last strut (PN: 22-266620) beginning of June 2020, but seems that everyone was out at the time.
- Bilstein B6 22-266637 (http://'https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product-search-detail/?ItemId=8282572063123993381&ItemNumber=22266637&cid=1') Front, driver's side
- Bilstein B6 22-266620 (http://'https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product-search-detail/?ItemId=2492099361992558077&ItemNumber=22266620&cid=1') Front, passenger's side
- Bilstein B6 24-266664 (http://'https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product-search-detail/?ItemId=6505964106308126953&ItemNumber=24266664&cid=1') Rear, both sides
Anyway, it's a pretty straight forward installation so didn't get too many photos. I started with the rears.
Removed top bolt of rear strut assembly. Just have to pop of the plastic pieces on the top of the rear wheel "hump" of the interior. And this will be exposed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMYTWx-OS6xZ59tEkx-s0KkgZTrolUmZ20ubGk_ypEY1SgN9JYY6NU7HgDZUPgnWTl5ekeIaQq2bddiJGFh_jA1T5DyfvviIORJhLO6EkkGZAhp20OF6RuzLDo7AyZwEMLrOFNdEBUNffCocoxfEaMIjSSI1JKf_f0iV3gVOco_W8O3lmi7CkNus16_-xGfHW?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Used these tools to remove it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mcJPSFkJNQq0k0zw2lt3oA_LCZLdcS8omjaWX1nf22NisX3UPz1oOfdbVvUGEOjyWLI494PpcVtLIwJ0SRsOOjP3HP_01wrwwYKrlMsmlAnaNIdQAWXA-JFP1B2Lfz9yRHGS2GoMxKzHmi47OiHtbt3EdBCfwtCQ9mcoRKvke2N-wylTKu4FrO9L6ScA6Pksy?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Then remove the bottom bolt from the knuckle:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZHopW0QGn0GuzcEHHE_FSY9tMBnAZqF89Uc-baswfQIpYZhTSQ6w3eLXuxw8oqlCBuGnKUfyKqu-fl3ASHut-V528x6ohOI-qQ3TO_VNk28q7HRtmsEhr30_V4fJDvZn61rZUQvq5rGqGi6TiDY-Hl2ckSE-JVJG8wr392vtMuXQDiF8zVjOeDZE5QOdfS7m?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Purchased all new rubber pieces from Ford so that everything going in would be brand new:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7-lKFYOW9gW2bby3y2WXhMOTCqGcAieAcFLmv5Eu8qRS00ZFoRCduAPIYzafk22MukviruJrxYJGQG9UufODpHMXNaAs3b01PXMgoLOgG0xAZhWWuPONH4ScW3Y8Jb-XkLjOPrv1gMxP0Tu7vaBGJusgI0YA0kyGBhuVlTjk_ICJ84PSAFqfQfS_tUS8R93U?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4maDUXWJB1TDA3SdnwaRAFrRKQeYddMSV77Z_ENfnHxfO-S84TGJklFgRNUECpUBEhsy6UVFpxgUVLCaxsHC4lnAIUH-bcWXNJg1ibYYtPkECJEbVJUlmy_emwVYsny7uGANYLlJSZoFlfJrjJ3d-ONopRYTOe237feOSE96ZbCKJebLR5GAG3O2ISen-Xw2nM?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Used the Bilstein bump stops that came with the shocks:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mdgJ0cuwUWh6_ByOgBi8QSIDo_Q4CYQvJuhxeMAn7fTDEML4nMgONjHUCovHQ5UoGOiYlZEiybYer2Uy3gHBVPE_-dwDwj4n487PPX5lyo_FCFKmoBFQ3cvtIASzlxUvdtdQt0vYwW0o7tmKH9tT5zCG0FMeQ7qwOL1yHzS2JJodYSOfWocDinWQab2r5AgvV?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4molY4VWT1DBwyjGHRM967LIZBQj3bdTwVT3ad1_hqFD7fFxck89ymrkJ1T2U7I80Jz7es9eueKBQJjtcaTx0avsYH54EowQJtDS7lo9UiH_x1sQt8RcskeVwLs6yNNWCKNwmXtpph_CP7KiF_xVXrpoHMp5Izij-jFnF6DLQJhGL0Onwq5FhkGjW_b9rdOi9v?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Installation is just reverse of removal. Finished install:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVdkNyAp-2kag2dkVoVxWeeEf-2Rg_eoJO-MP2sbTMeWRI0w1l_5Zt7mFcZhRQX_zto7McHGfm1eQx9AehThp2TxVP2T5DQp5c18j05OFOiOXDwYsRNMjAwhx1pdpzsJh43v2XQ3yLDmkUY9I94QirzAvg63mDr-0Ef_iYm8FznglhjVPgXSqD4_b-ql-UU2O?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Fronts were pretty simple. I have a spring compressor that that helps. I purchased brand new hats from Ford for the fronts as well as the rubber spring seat. Just wanted everything to go in new.
Finished install:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhNq5AgZLmNzA60YMT2VpFwuZ3j8ZRdCHA83hrLpJnz0R3SD_yxplm1XI07HavxC1T3B35DdV6AyVU299JwWH8JO1fJReyGQm3HpXrapXhIEwtMex6iQ4J143wGAjBMYihPUTKaVw0PXSW3QiHJHMneCXvDPDTbmRz0g-4W24ZJY-LjxiJZcgqEOkYwH8qmFV?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRSYlH8S2qeLNrixpx7TdPjLkFXFpT55VFUG-9KXilatE5r-5ZqJUp7UJGhXg8FAd8aOqqj0WXWF_QUfjduYeQ1QCclbsdl_2QIsF5Czod_oPEmvG7toC5fiEoGAHbexnN_yK29qOBVM-GkIRXU5hnSZ_KNaQ3xyuMpBQnLTWsv3JxpUEWoTyA1D0VmcYVVoe?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Weight Reduction: Aftermarket Wheels v2.0
There was always a small bug in me that had issues with my TE-37s. Not bad, but it was nagging...enough that I finally decided to act on it. Keep in mind, they looked GREAT and where lightweight! What more could you want? So, fast forward about 2 years and I decided to act on it.
I made a change that I'm sure most will find perplexing. I wanted NEW wheels! This is completely irrelevant to the performance, but I was always unhappy about how it "looked"...I think the current vernacular is it's "stance", LOL. It always bothered me that I had to use those spacers and I STILL felt like I wanted more of a concave appearance. When I was shopping for the TE-37s, at the time, they offered them in 20x11s but I had opted for the 20x10s as I wasn't sure they would fit. Well, I wish I had gone 20x11 as I now know the will fit.
When I decided to pull the trigger, I went back to the Ray's Engineering (http://'https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/brand_detail.php?brand=VOLK&lang=en') website in order to do some more research. The 20x10 was offered in their "Face3/S" concave appearance, while the 20x11 was offered in the "Face4/L" variant with additional offset. Face4 was their most aggressive concave construction:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miyCtP_kUwLROLr2DTeDcSc78H5zB8h-SFwrBSKR89siKgN5LbhTy32xoyJdhCI8iuSoVbRum4Px_90zEm1CnzmTRvGY_E8mJQfiuYeWuto3veryjr0g7xc6gdAn80UY-9PnOXwLbYQj19G_C7JNzNybhwtcPMQQtjU_Got9o5G7K75MuW940SdjkuY-AMQ0H?width=836&height=400&cropmode=none)
Come to find out, Volk no longer makes these wheels in that size. They had been discontinued about a year prior. I was out of luck. The TE-37s definitely were my favorites and I should've pulled the trigger on those back when I initially made the purchase. So what do I do now?
Enter Yokohama Advan (http://'http://www.yokohamawheel.jp/brand/europeancars.html'). Another reputable tuner wheel that offers lightweight and stylish, aggressive offset racing wheels. I started looking around and the only one that came close to attracting my attention was their Advan GT Premium (http://'http://www.yokohamawheel.jp/brand/advan_gt/index_euro_pre.html') wheels. I love the simple 5-spoke design and the aggressive concave appearance.
I wasn't 100% sold on the bright racing gold color, but was the closest I could get to the original look of the TE-37s. They no longer offered the Dark Bronze, despite it still showing on their page. I went with the 15mm offset so I didn't need to use any spacers anymore.
After a long 14-week wait while they shipped from Japan, I finally got them in:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8E167oE_DEF_E_hWTzkej-D8S95gsPNG9s1CXgOvCaQfxLP8QjRybvHzUDg523SiNySo6HUhBW_ItrlNvX89pewfCfK-a87ALxiTVW0CtiFi1vfGzALdcw6NjO3qk-rVvB_eJkc8pP8cx0kM24ATgHM33xIXHUt6AdVJu3MihGwn-Pdnx-v9ME5psXbwaeHx?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And I REALLY, REALLY like them:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZNhvZ1yTtyUiukfDC-RfZSlNnBzvh7MmKJRXs88ADv9XsYdVP6Xklmx3WIvSOaYFT76fjo9xSpsqCav8X3p2sEGCwVMN3M8hnuASolO2h5h6FtJR3v0JYjL6BnLZe68o0C9DcukbNnaITDa_wt1cFmCTORIKOjF94ArfP6hj9HTESRFGg6EWYCZk5FhPz4iN?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4ma15RlRVKw5qNkqdynPOcjmJXNsk0-klCHLCqeknMvBEyFS75apdlbBClwDT_u3_KSDWCi5pJAIN9m3GAzD4rg7voyEfhgFolUi7YSpKrTZQOgmiA-OV5af0oh7fecnkhX4iRzJA6rXieFRun_AdPp67w7ViarT1Z9on6BIHtjPf6MDG0tI-zPRI_sX7m9Zs_?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPLDe3yUKtHFXKugQkXrgmqjV2LEocwywKzyCMzDU_Tuki3m3_TMPM8JsvP5K9Ub0WmQHBomBo4DuaDVrbaOWWZ5schTblDUXgHgHkd7g7RZXvSV_vZYRzlUv2E-21yVf6AqlBvzaJszBylva803SvqNx5q3cGUnXkWc8MYfW2JzpBU12G4hd1NYnVs251yjT?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So how much do they weigh? Well turns out, despite them being a larger wheel than the TE-37, they are actually 2 lbs lighter! Winning!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4my9RsL05ixBFXZRUdNMwFyQj8SmuN83PhBhsl7LFWQ0Y1FZixj_YO2-vbxJvH06XNRansU-gWZuA23ckB_vpIAOAeKFVq2vjA6O-Z1FKnppJQMVTVrUNpNu8wx3HICcrXrAfmPoEQsbJGcdW_ceibfnZjTAK1xNH5qFNDHijDsoDzcYtexUW86i8PdkQXHnMe?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfh2Z3-VjLlBkxi4Y2Cbtae7Ae6N176FgsFRsfRCZ_pD9KCW5uubQQuVdFBs1-YaHB0sg9Q2fODzdlldNpbaxfYveXJ2UubApf3LmrxA2ZrUcxY4ix1EYKdaxxzT6sHMFxp4KLOZcVr9w9--FIs_Z3nc2zhPR_xeYRThAB9eNy08mqHX1v_ayzbE5SCgLClNS?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
FYI, that block of wood weighed 6.5lbs, so I'm subtracting that to get the final weight. Had to use it to get the wheel to sit on my mailing scale, LOL.
Now...for tires. I'm pretty bummed about this part. I went with some Hankook Ventus ST tires again as they are the only ones that had a size I thought would work: 295/45-20. Not to many tire companies make that size, and TBH, it isn't ideal. The tire diameter is now 30.5" vs stock 30.0". The 275/45-20 I had before gave me a 29.7" diameter. The objective for me was to stick as close as I can to stock OD, but if I had to change, going slightly under would be preferred as it is an effective way to change gear ratio slightly. I've now gone in the other direction. And to make matters worse...
The weight I saved on the wheel was eclipsed by the now-heavier tire...38lbs:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVISeqt1XBA8fvgOUR79qrikON2eZ1ov3FIIUU3UT8z5PnXEAPYrn_MKtI2MYiTGqMk8QwcZ-KF29NwrShAFskF9FlDdX4t-qC2rA2pgWrIHHbt8ojeUyctbaV31kcHpSNY7l6choBoQIJhAPWId8nBFXysmLR8KFynf8csfpaGRaAYa_LGSJIKBv2Mi-BCRn?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I gained ~3lbs by switching to the new wheel/tire combo! Not winning!:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mcuPTry2pTpnnZP2GnGjKxIcH7g1BJ3TYW3ajMuryFWbGEEXWPdwW0bDr5PsRgoDA3ItUMomoV3ggg4ePsQdanukOA6ddsYbWE6IOBGcy0HfFR2FGSvJdvaCgN08U2s8C0JWyMi6_XGrIWXlaoZu8qj1c3BEWi2NFNzRzTPMs-26OB1_c1MgTVNpeohJhcyXL?width=850&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So, mounted, balanced and riding around, the car is fine, no rubbing at all. I added the tirestickers again and I actually like the "stance" way better:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAt2B4yFCYFPMWq1JgxUw5KUC11pp-6Wel-FBSMZU6zclkslcxozSqReSik5ZH5cHVeOLV2nF2LSEbUFiHIsj-921cErj5c8vL8iqAdVWE-nTAOjPindJ76Acw-FVk3tKDR4Th699U0DcT74kYTOqwW5GySVI5nwEvr4tIWt1ITYGMOhVUS4u47D9IKqbj-pc?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m-IupG17PcgwL3MrbahV638kmgiKGVZhohTmG---AaiE9GumtWvi-fcYC6igNA49nKioJlaORy2esdTsu1ZO7NHs91XhhlKzwgjBXOb_BmUTZ0n8xbV4ubyZtvZftVbz1Q0m8q5MXPrJyHVox7VhL7fkFb7HXCnnZX3vgcNFTFxu-LoFVzhcyx5fim0TQyRWp?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDj71lX3aaHbvS6cpmQd5rOxteLJi8HkI0eV2aaNice5Uw_ljyLgz3kYqHnykoimcqPsvdagHlJqjQI0y1Z7mTiYMdqS7lvILxHWekqn59vghMEJocLzGcQ155cxgeJw0WaSmaNhREHIkgOoly37z0izj43_Prvx4-ZsYST70tKYVOBqdX0VNILzBQ9nnJRrM?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
There is visibly less wheel well gap and ride height. Who would think 1/2" taller tire could look so different. I will say, I get WAY more looks and snapped-necks with these wheels than I ever did with the TE-37s.
I'm just not 100% happy with the tires (weight). So, I'm still searching for a better one. My dream tires would be a set of Nitto NT05R, but they don't make a size I can use (or WANT to use, is a better way of putting it). To open up my options, I've recently been entertaining the idea of going with some 305/40-20s that will bring me closer to a diameter I had with the TE-37s, but I'm curious if I'm playing with fire as far as rubbing issues. I've seen that the ContiSportContact 5P (http://'https://www.continentaltire.com/product/contisportcontact-5-30540-zr-20-112y') tires come in that size, are grippier than the Hankooks and, from what I've seen online, weigh 35lbs. That would put me right back at the ~58lbs I had with the Volks and bring my OD down closer to OEM as they are a hair shorter than the 295/45-20s...
I'm also liking what I'm reading about the Pirelli P Zero (Porsche Edition) (http://'https://www.pirelli.com/tires/en-us/car/catalog/product/p-zero/305_40-r20').
...but I really, really want drag radials...LOL. 305/35-20s are just too small and nobody makes a taller drag radial. Anyway, the car is ever evolving...
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~256.0 lbs
Intake Manifold Coolant Pipe Insulation
So about a year ago I went to the drag strip and was racing my Explorer. There was another guy there with one who was also racing his. We obviously started talking and I noticed he was always spraying down underneath the intake manifold with ice water after and before a run. This was when I was still a noob, LOL. He told me there is a coolant pipe that the intake manifold straddles and just bakes that manifold in heat. I was surprised and intrigued and decided to do something a little better about it.
I went to Tasca Parts and bought a new pipe to keep downtime to a minimum as I already had purchased a new intake manifold for my direct port meth kit I was going to install. So when I got the pipe in, first thing I did was send it off to Jet Hot Coatings to get a ceramic coating treatment:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNwxAGBYp3HAc-oOXpe-VxM5dtb0sElV4i-t8ulOy_4z-zFvOgs_ZZTdccQDIuLbS_I2IG0qz0vg9FZ6mXcm4FciFnirimehqW2S79OMDFFGNukJe8ebF1_Ht45tG0-wJiSCv4JSWQPeqegHWFasn31uimbeOgkXR1SOJuBlUEsO6aQmbqJ0V-38iS6OgPMJD?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I was advised by Jet Hot that their classic polish (http://'https://www.jet-hot.com/classic-polish') would accomplish what I'm after better than any of their other offerings based on what it was being used for.
Well, I thought I had done the pinnacle in heat management, but boy was I wrong. After seeing a post (http://'https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/x35design-sho-ecoboost-intake-manifold-spacer.141526/#post-1539407') by [USER=26123]@mrhighcaliber[/USER], I was impressed by the steps he took to mitigate the heat from this hot coolant pipe. So much so, that I had to copy him, so all credit goes to him for this one.
Got some 1" rubber pipe insulation (http://'https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armaflex-1-in-x-6-ft-Rubber-Self-Seal-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation-HST11812/100569382') from Home Depot.
You have to get the rubber, not the foam, it won't hold up to the heat. Well one step further it was wrapped in some metal heat tape. I had some of that fancy gold stuff from DEI (http://'https://www.designengineering.com/reflect-a-gold-heat-reflective-tape/') laying around so I decided to use that for me:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQeqZUOFQFMa2KSSUqVuAVKtN-u0rOCisT_U55Od8UNUwA36txvFu6W5BOqzA8PnVYRGhdxUibgSDNq6-v-cwedOd6mS7nI-cC-2fTpQ48YKU0_0CKmol5CNz0q0uKzdUZqq1sH-QXhkuvbeifDDMjj0g8MfOmTaFkmrIDf9PIEPkd_ms_K2fRMS47WqH0oZY?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So, FYI, there is a technique to wrapping pipe with heat tape. You can't just do it continuoulsy. I made that mistake and it looked like s***. The secret is cutting it into strips. I watched this video and it all made sense to me. And looks great. Tedious but worth it...
https://youtu.be/obLB5CARTU0
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrv0k_fDtFCqzZr77u7H9XYxXDY2VX9kKrfA31g1Nol-Pm-0IOXA9GAC5DAmoi1f_STTKFhVqRVspjXpsg-Ds-NVBH6E7kgcaEipB8PftDnr_IXEAGsmdAfZPpVldCEcpUMAsZWkrpD-c6U-NfE0-wrq2W__-kNc860BqQda5XpC8ZI-dXKjfT3N8ShV-o-Jb?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Installed onto the manifold:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEktzv3HoxSV592YKvAgxRVdS747JZCvX8tJ2D4wAUjHmlew_PIuNUkfJ1CvSiHLrEikJx-4hwmS8NtZzR3mInmzWZzG1uY5U2lyG72jRKLp5dP4v1ue-Cuy7CQQYtm6x30D4aMqnyQMdWhe9XqcaY07Lcy96hyWlTFEmDYRQqoYZ2BQzJdNDguyqpfUVZVdp?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And finally on the engine!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCF0TN4t4Thvkr1yCW-ncOW7AE14JHMoFbRh6tP03jVcS1ujk0lihkcWNURNzC9yG8EHiEyXODIhI0ykX8g3Vq0GKE0NQNboK8-Z5qlcd6HhevqwLTRwfoRqutCkE9CqcJQsILddF09e3ve9s8ghbOmYn6O1TzXjOB_vFX-fOTGT9WvHO7-QFTkki903FdEnR?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I did no real datalogging before this and I've done so many other mods at thee same time I did this, there's no real way for me to say how well, if at all, it's gonna work. But logic says it will at least do something, LOL. And that's enough for me. Plus it looks kinda cool.
In-Cabin LPFP Access For DW300c
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10590.msg159068.html#msg159068 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10590.msg159068.html#msg159068)
So I was really dreading installing the fuel hanger that had installed the DW300c into.
Reason being...I was dreading dropping the fuel tank as we don't have top access from within the vehicle. This would mean taking the driveshaft down, removing the exhaust, removing the filler neck, all kinds of lines, etc. As some of you know, I hang out on here a lot and posed the question to see what you guys had to do for any pointers before I tackle the task. You all proceeded to tell me you have in-car access from a plastic cover under the rear seat...ugh...I got jealous, LOL.
Anyway, I decided to say "&^%$ it!" and see what can be done from the top. I took the seat out, cut back the carpet and found a small hole with a rubber grommet near where the fuel hanger would be. I used my boroscope to see what was under it and see what was in the way. Well, nothing was! So I made an larger exploratory 2.5" hole that I could easily cap off with a rubber plug I had laying around if I had to abort.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRJFIPWny0Z3p-uFyuKvJh_BZcVRjN-PiZO8yE5tk-rr7Z-YWMxT2zWx1JzCtGPAuQoiCC5jTTZ3DmEtjM2zWEgFzwFhYsjash37pOLxqepXUi6MGOr-hUXZW6e0RmDRL7JetJB-JYmTnX14SXta6XbSlDTd3ubTt5AmvABXJNNbu-yrYlTHwdgK3ZQftIvh0?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_0mMOI-tZUf_bQWW4HXJSKSPnrCkIlOdb48JPAzq60zxGVbUx0xHYZo9Gwe3tK_Y7RWGT7FcPT1Uj1M5SU57560AHgPC3d0oELlRnYKS2uOaaiU86x6tJwSiRhcVPCucfFsf_dupgOd5DIZ5V73yRzk01iUAYyH3GX4T5dZBE0yLMfEMFis_L3D_JPAX0KDL?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGh6QjxrzjnUWwMUUs9sP_pX5XFPXYjt1b49wbfL3hD4ly8f46v5Kqh8BJs7ztPFcEQgLA3-s71_wsdqXDFt3uNvb1qB3gzleGtPtVd73l9ntMOx4E-FKQkuscPFvNQLBEkPf9NWDP_HsW2AoGj7E78vXIzPFXZez3EtzSdNWbA6BgsAJiBPfyNRUbSc45i3t?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So after closer inspection, I noticed there was parts of the body that are required for the actual structure, but there looked to be a small window I could make to access the fuel hanger without effecting any of the structural integrity. It would be an odd shape, but it was a flat area that I could easily make a cover plate for when I was done. Sooooo, I decided to just commit...full send baby!!!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlQJlY1Y_sQYyKCXYKWoSwfC9CzWsGN0zVwVNJYta-3vr8m9LpoENfvllV1As1XQMaMXI1ZG0SQsS8-fXBpT-T_Cp2QqrVCOPo0sFPAK6V6-3vdTRWNIooLbwQdPnEECYvWfObadO46WtAiqrAsPUsgKaBgfDffIngft9CqO4v2ATzTwxCK_NFSyLdzk49pnS?width=587&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the cutting tools you should try to use. I would NOT use a cut off wheel as it creates sparks and I am not sure how the fuel vapors are in that vicinity:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5rKKdkQSo5RwJxllwvVSURTGpoChBF7Ps6C8ZzbUdQcBTXX-HGeKBExEcDZg8TGbq2-J2QWstMvf88mGY7dIczvDMopNK63eMhBwZlPwrhqnC1jv7yk4akKvRFgsZ-4nYasN7m2xRLwM082O-ngi22gWcpQR_R2X299NolTacKE0UUcUneSL2wqnkZHsDec9?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Initial rough cut:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCnJEJLSRWtLiJJ6K7tgw8cDndzpWXEOKCstOY2FCANwhrS7vmlg3NLhh4Qzff71g6ZjekAsveF_qQ5Sb2h52dZO9R0LM5gqkzwrDQTisvaOcL2wRY08Jek00Qw0ZnzENqftPg7tkgMIEhi9FeuxKZoyXxgg30f138ePxB97SG8LslLigzkQrw_Ex-s3yiJtn?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Edges sanded and deburred, old hanger cleaned:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzc8jAbBJSuCLGRpTRDui6vpQXORH9UKAkt5jzjEsTNiSQ1dfa6HJ1KLDNSCfioOJx12FP5-FUKwnucJ0hPSUFzuM6WyNFMw1-O6BpuNaq6j7xKsqSq9uv8xBnKOnemB75TjQ7-_P6Z4v1lSojyLVtaTfMrh53z2afvmniyvy1qW5uvpppMz6zt53GoC7lBpP?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Carpet cleaned and trimmed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9mnOvAXCPpXIZRkveXpjCExxo4CcX6PINuUBF1qw2xsX0xWv7Iz73cPEkEhh3kmBI0TuPA0R_fOCGSUe_53KX4TbQQVlxwXY4Zqq0zbhxurntce8sYWLCfij8u9O-akLmTSiY1UYxGS675Ar8VXU2mH-5mfZNPuW8xIovfwuhSTYz7XKqXlPqGU4i-g27n3M?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
WeatherTech mat covering hole, to see how obvious it might when I would get finished:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4medsf5osPIx5paenKkk92Vd3ay-FHQGQWyJR-YrFh-WS7qkvSQ6yjRUh-tIuLPqC4zxMitTgZTp8a8L87B4PjtZcK5LDR59xRs6Ft3FBO9DglkGYuKeBKJlHdT3YEnzfV-5_e02I3RqcNIUEYT2JEF7r_pCxiqaKhMxMeyWeU0I2kb2G6ndeXqsPRJ0KQA2wW?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Well, Now I just would have to make a cover plate, which will have integrated gussets for added rigidity and a rubber gasket to seal it up. I'll drill and install some rivet nuts and this thing should be super easy to access in the future should I need to!
So latest update: I installed the new fuel hanger from this access hatch. OMG, it was awesome how easy it was to get to. Didn't take a pic of the finished install as it looks exactly like the OEM hanger, LOL. Oh and I used a new hanger o-ring too!
Cardboard template of the cover I will cut on the shears I have at work:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4meQ0xxCcMAKVFidK9jfuVHrSzsXbBYp9k6FZ0WG-zmeykLW2-Uc3Sl8seDcsG_sAEBdXNYd2fgNp1H_0M25-S5YhVmbXstgxvUeNrTXdqCLI3qyrTJHmfSQJ7RsOKkuENaMs_MFleA9rEMNq1aqW9ab2Etpg3h5fhHSOxM31NVCRmosU8Ff2ZsYmBWtsW94Wf?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mpEJOm5_qK1imW4-37jOY8UTrfOFfSTf11pzd7dhJ-vMvpcVKDQ7RIZ28AN3KHCnWQniY-VNJimhQgwdx-VnP41vFb6JwzrvVXx_Jvje4DCDboNacBG4usxwfsgYj0G_wnmgqFsLQledmua1P2yPbamqCiqicsXVY5-MyBnqmJ9_ZlHIJCXMK6tY7SbJlzNqG?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mbQtlHU5NKMpBoZuG0NNU7aPlgjstY9z1dxdcyKnkXJUDUKgLkfru77s6P-RA1_5a2OMpHbAPhjH7quw9coBMTu_NK4YeYrBJ-QFjGySN8mbuge8HZjot3uwsxDTQG8yAlYxyWJluTXCI6R7RKGYOnFd7uR_cU3e9g7LHvFjrGzf58TpbiYErsacEbEgLshT5?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Cut the new plate from 8Ga aluminum plate...pretty thick stuff, won't be putting the indents in as this is way thicker than the sheet metal body.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkYAl717EiOKjEfiYXBZd0MAM7AyMkKyR6A6uX6WgwqRe0cKjvHTZg6LMIXTudMq9aDIdKKBIWw5RCfTveKFPHEOG5anuCeNGY4flOESZBOC13HwIJUAG3tjyUFlhGucgIPFjGzDmyFQahVXJ9WitLXzR2xgAmbwkk2mmmvAzI2mkq-hq_MDOePTrKLXjpd4W?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0Zfqi6pi1FLIyt83g7LVyxhXUQF0DBD215tA9ojXlmpvSd_nZeBwC_1wf-0wNwhpo0iy8LAYiJm8CkQlqpfxmOX9hW7HL7rcNAJJ8DymGVQLlgUcGmW5yMMbq3IWnWEphZq_Acyc0b62YzPqHV5MP1Y4Iu3RYiIXapaJ1DCNPVonfn8Ac2DCxCK9Xl1-ymNy?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Comparison of aluminum plate to template:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAue0eP7q-OdmYdUSmm5oaCOYwVQCfOmDLdkGwlGw6v6sdh-_uwjLGiA0ZoOT3yKya9a84x2FrcVO9ZHuPSNP9ReJaBNCafKhIhwZCX_h3rEvEj5CQoF1vJ0dKbdrkSIbsi_WRWPYd0ngzrgu5mQFcee3hLQrmClOkw5inSEuK-O_nDG0ICefNKPbfWVMywMn?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Rough sanded and filed edges:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZxMa5wynRaqEIv_043rp1kM7sF2RhIdjGqmssrY6Rf51SjlLZa1A5sNqZugZBiU6rjlUmLS0PaPpAaaJCUDsO3u9Cz3micbyQCJVZQ7g36X2D5Qd1j34tyEw3_Cj4BOIKJ8cj3ocw53XXE5DudeWlVWexzvoBQTLQ5N-0iVjWA5QiFkFxiUnPjgYHnO0YhnD?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Fine sanded and polished edges with finished top/bottom:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_uh10NjVzdBMpnqNkxA6XkM7ekhsV4vns5P4NbvihbxBpm86BKjpC6-_TK9MBpI7guRW9cS3hA5FSAp_iTSWPtEtv5iqaVw4gnLkr4naVd6V9Tpy2ZzogFdCSbwymFYvUqV2cnn4A5BcGxxcVV8LhtmdrlwkO3Rkzr-1Ruzg6_hVZBmxpNhNbj5a0hXJAg62?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Mocked into vehicle:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mlNIFo6gWuCYY5aPHtM8KnwCW_3s5hG06vwP_v4i5ogtRgVM01NrTXBEQcGttwU9WrquWobDhGMvvc6CKkmXuwUl4FPzPDzd2ILLpZjpUqvxeJhYnXGkxQWr8_gRTI4j-5Skb_xv6WUmIa3CFQCqjCR-oyFS107vHXAWGwIBquZM1lAyDCe5LFcM8J8utE7vh?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Gasket cut/sized: Just need to identify where to place the hardware holes...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVVMMG0CuVfiiPgL0Ttc18LCjctW7TCX0X5p9QMBEVWb2nT3NoYz7-F4ifKQipkaZEa5v4lxVi_TvKt-94cB3MG1Kzro91N-aVGaxvEvvvG6opPTUAXNGNoBcP7VgS3-KR4da7dJZix0tULFPLk1pMUjp_mCw1XEZFpBRppNbxy3cZDUHMWyzY_PoDI9BkW2Y?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mf0jKpx_rWl5nUTB3049LqSP0WpiPGXIdOGjA76rt0Cfp6Dc4CBljw5qF6-Dei5ob4fXCatLt1o1CDN6HwUnzPhFbi1_0sTjajkHElFn6D38Vie4gqBvifWzZ0oQrk5swYecTxrboKd4U6mo3CXH4ePy1GhLOxPAGZ7noqxbB_NQFnLjL75qoB5sPZGC4YASe?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msZy_8KLu0PA4a15P8KyzFnMeqWFDZVFwMxj8eJ6n8MzevlmmoXVgTt725iJeHpjkleI7xNT0cXw_KVjNM3-1yq5GK91ZuUxiHNp4L6XReVsJRNOW7t2mX4dQdgwG0EebhiXVa8lelPLfTExcStc3Ki97mj2pdjsuV9LrteAKp1I4ccWeYpP5tGXEBu4__GaV?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Center punch panel bolt holes:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjZ_Q3mLAooLInE9cuCloafXeG0qma8-hdCqeHOvbMmN1Id1AWPnqGct_KtVYuyc40-GN-puhhy_xjvMmETSCG1244QXPbXiub9L_8RJon0RHSJDmx65ZvWJKaXwExiW_JsuR43WAoompEpUziEKlRxiexJXY2bJ-72bR0RqYOiuxBl1tTyT56ni82fVxFvED?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Pilot holes drilled:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mWL1_4hGVMrrbGbE-PwtOekW29VxVPFHGSqL4-caveLlInXwtQATeMa6_FSkadY89QvxXJGMIb3V5bOC10gAKKIFa0VYY9p3UtJUaMQVdA8y021PyrtGNNkXhc7GBgAz0HelfpEjqRjy20G2U2ichbnMBymr7OhX0nXW3Conxs9H3eZRMKaYTbeMNPzoTQnQt?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Transferred hole locations to gasket:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1_QMJObBQ9eQ0a-etlPfbgI7VV1KDiFHyfCoOVoxs_BipY7zvrr5Ibt8sEWIhU8Mu6nxVhfxpwL8Xr3ORIzDG_QPng2I_N8z75jmA_EMuzCEHby6w7lOYHul8PQ7i_9tU60mtebayiDUN5wAjIaixpYY5uUTarm_9nprGZ2SrSpJ7Uc-rEVfqAXz4V3iAe6g?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Holes punched into gasket (yes to the Crocs!):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUr6ZstfBmDNmsf9npOHaPrEcij6b4fUggMEfsomRjxKNprRqqcbvCRl0RqEjfAQm2tSS_aqlAKMw32qC2p8ziRYQR2Z9ozLnuO6zr9dKniMvyKu6BumBqXZTnnPvv02qQuCL3EaPvhhV942M6kCT7RKt9tuqKnNFTgfEkA1nF3jKFqqSlTxalg6KQO91fB0c?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rivet nutt holes drilled in body:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msH4nmoIrx3dez10cxV3Z_G-a1tmZPCljmCjIfVAMjhiefGQ2pyumspvlGlKl_WUIyiKjT50CCnFyiT2RnmyJhie-4QDspWZVyBgawFf9qQSt3LdcItKwIhrWTakQNqu1gGMtLhXNkfA2_u3aQTZTHxeSH9EZgbzf9GO2fDGyNnvJ8MDblvadmd6A9yx7fgvv?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rivet nuts installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mupjb967ewEdudCNUIkhl5mL4aAY7EJqcLGxGEyvXPKRKAiI9eTC0EHVZZEpvldsD0zLySqXARe4lqrTyG51K7rW4iJs1cE9GdnQm2T--4jBh1A81A6E7BYMMN-JdFxHRR3SUx1bdcNXbXEN_Pm8as4SHxt_kNVFw-0WVmgUHUSlpcLkQ5C1TDhdmCV2byQGe?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Had some DynaMat laying around..helps a bit with sound deadening
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPGEGvRIM4mP7bNuSQRRXkftRYvVQdfWdWYlaOUGmLpq4N7529BPOawAkK-boO-7ALtP6HbDk5z8xlSTZAfhdwmiivihP2vSLNGmFk8S4-6nWGRhUtpZT_ZHjWCA3Iehipwsdm68TcUEEwRRV106-cyO913EGKggPdvfaWlNzK0ySo2ejKf51HrkBY7D1KEqf?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Panel installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPTcUbh4G_jmdjPjxC-88dP7KLlG_PPk2CvXZ_PSmhr3RYuEcRTLFHmMnNs_eyrVyljEQWZlqsjH4_TCPDvgYKh81M7BVA11gtcMVuQTAg6nRbZzLTc303mf8oF7TQPg1y59aBMcKN1rBlaq8Ulf_UmX9qVbiqBtw-xrqghT6qwOIhjrNESLFB5tWLCntmTx3?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Hardware used:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwtlV9p7ZFyGFqyV0BS0ZyoqcThBikZapOVM_LiD6-zxBPTfUYviSMw93iLcvZCVKe34tjsqvj34WB7h1WipStlG2EsUrTOdZPkJN74B55c6ZegUacRyPVvJhuTEKPWOfgP52Y4KgZQQR4_E7D8-lij0q0dlDSwIeGxJCftcRRZukzeFQeWsnZ5U9tq4JcLhy?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Seat installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGb3ANz7BrQtUK8kZKwmvvrglRSI11UGWGyN1VcJUa6vAZq2gMxZuI0P4X6jA5XqZYLLLOKEszvJqMa-hVUVDsBQuX85Y7keWEyUSFLnQLJms5P5y-iVSjfkwb1duETryC9k0fiOZMuTTrph8LYtKKtM6C97JUeXXTWJVAM6I3CHF_WCVOqPm9T37Kohj_meR?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Easy access when needed!!:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4iBOsWwR5CA-J4I99qz0mXrt8Bgu840R6LggflHPcImAPtsbtPU_SN9w5jqVmCwPxOCx_uK1dQfc8ePd9g6ETfl9jwx1zuEEyx3-RofwsqpaIT-OH_Qb5ynz0S9gcxz9dH4Qrrm0c4nlVXs7De2KkfK1Jz9IQpju_3oizYi5VHnQ1hOaE8SaC0XZGAVVtd44?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
MevoTech Front Tie Rod Install
So, if you're anything like me, you sometimes enjoy putting upgraded parts (whether go-fast or OEM improvements) on your vehicle "just cuz" (and I guess if finances allow for it). Here may be one of those parts. Mevotech TTX line of parts, specifically the outer tie rod. The TTX (Terrain Tough) (http://'https://www.mevotech.com/brands/ttx/') line is supposed to be their super tough, best engineered line of parts, as they do offer a standard OEM replacement level as well.
https://youtu.be/KGXZHvGoiVg (https://youtu.be/KGXZHvGoiVg)
I saw these being newly introduced for the XSport from the Explorer forums and, even though nothing is currently wrong with the OEM ones I have now, I am in the middle of some suspension upgrades and figured, if I'm ever gonna do it, now would be the time. Got me thinking about my SHO brothers and how it would fit. Turns out the parts are different between the 2 platforms, but...they do carry an SHO version...
Anyway, just figured I'd share this with you guys if you don't know and may be interested in them. Not sure what your opinion is of the brand, but they seem worth taking a look at. They appear pretty well built (although the package does say Made in China) and I do like how they are serviceable. Rock Auto had em the cheapest for the XSport at right under $32 each, but looks like the SHO version is more like $47 a piece.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQWBt7ZGes369dNdHUXbkJLRALA7G6N0Qr4paM0sa8Tpbbba7cGisoy_rGEot2MlXuxMFh1tOPmdcvq2HZwYHCWuqUS4SURF0mE5HnHIAneKETs85vSNKRhzW02TIIaZlOX7lV3s1G4CfxLbPOGR_WZ5vBkP5vxo0LIW2gnTchK7q8SmEYeSN12x2AZp787cq?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
MevoTech (http://'https://partsonline.mevotech.com/details/TXMS40601')
Rock Auto (http://'https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9158256&jsn=714&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqy8eOR0sg7BsyoIVzYVynWFS3HhMyNO6412RTsqfFUzcMsKKFqoad35U9%2FQ8vlbiNsrtsWnBHWO14UmKiwasZ2sa1o%2FFnnnA6nmrwIZRbdFUu3FhePJiWIHdIPAbCR4v3uMO5L6a02HBinGk6jAFKXBoQtr1%2FQ6QsABJYNSP2GEHugf8oqko7ckxMYYo5HruHtABO8MVYR%2BUk3wCX5AUgkmaKu06D8ZGklkfKpJXrI8LwlSkN%2FavqN73v%2B3JHDqvNcoSC5vryh5AiQL2gSW0MMhoWK0bFtkJjSS4CsEns4xqA%3D%3D')
Top View Comparison:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mm19rXsoUoM2hL8UME3tio7Yll-JbkdIhazzyQWael7dnBAy4zRz8_mUoHn72OdoDW2Zn0b3uDg6BMkU5-wUfyqYd-1-rxrhmY8q2M6h6y1NQE4iJsPJreoS_1s0mtzdCZ3_542IbEN-K8KiqyO18zMteKOGTfWFmdzx8pStQGpDfuIMBc49VqH7c4UdCso4Y?width=941&height=941&cropmode=none)
Side View Comparison:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9LaEfKGl5x_CjILQBtVby6s8dvNLOev_YSt0Lvkxs2LRWukQTss0KM4tAFo7DTVKA4n8WAOuPmrYgIHnAzk51bS9THDVXjEEBiZf7lvjsehuNm-sML0L_guXWPkR-Fcy33ScMst3l_AzmfBhqaGqlyVlWHinioMvxByfQERtCWJsQ6kxxXVcNHcpsCwVfBsN?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Before Installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mHQyf_kHdO01kEDDwjYCs04J2sG0-YjMzZ08w3XdUvGzLImuFLelJuLf9drfJM54DSI6woyBCR19lkDNqaUuBdlF7us2W2WmuuwChYQemAMl6iji8VA3oUjzBNtLAXSnAPjubIT_G85BO4e1oAhTEt2vBbx9rkuIqrrXMzKSg8knr5yBzbYoYUovyxDtb0eq4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Removing the tie rod wasn't too hard in my case, but I know in some environments or if it's very old, they can get pretty stuck. I just hit the top of the threaded stud down with a small-handled 4-pound sledge and it came right out of the knuckle.
After Installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwuYtcDuizexReoW0OOqUREQ9t3S1T93qCWEZ3a0vc34baHjCChR7QVIJ1pdDDY3j5hqbZWaizqeFVRSpV-oVlwCs-3mHTzA9AP5wCqhjlpb9WXm9nXHMeZdQNALkjTuGdxHjlmI8rF3e5I2-rDKkPu4OafcxAiPSCectEimHkeYUuSTCHXM08apoTijz7OOd?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now...for an alignment!
RDU Maintenance And Plug Install
Drilled drain plug and filled unit with some Amsoil 80W90 Severe Gear (http://'https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-80w-90-agl/?code=AGLPK-EA#pills-home_0') oil:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBChXFCnmH0GL82lnCtdhMrXUJPbX47ge-lTyMz9du1HQ1czYySp30T9nFTk-aEUXEQpx_EtXK6nA9hmDPPa60Cpa-XViifRMCUoXYSXc5VciAjdb4MpUF-3-Dj7UybYK9I4crMHtMpvqJv0iA7-ugvbKI5hAOLu_DJx8BFeQruzByC0J2HAyzg80EyG2WNq2?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Service manual calls for 1.22 qts (39 ozs), so had to use a little from a second one. But had to get rid of this silly hanger first:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkXINcr0ztbzCNmxrpRExEXJ3UqUlQygqRzDPguH-TWdqWF6RrqOFotzKsjEEhZCzPIWZ20uBp5FSzV3bmB7T8xm9w2Lg5PSNrSiazOagM2q6Jv-VYt2JutXbEBYmQzBFMiJI9t_jzzlsizc3KPhnhqIbiTDZlg-YSVharhPDRjs1VEF3BsBtOcssnaBCFWR4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mcxdcarO6dGxRUBcqHiWbITlsbH7C_PiH7SZj-JgnzAkCH6EAvv5sq-96RP3PQy5YzfhhFUdcIIIExWsjI1h4c90n2sI4RVJUUkUG8s18N8mGi3gtNAxIgMTJlktZyJbnaKj7zKJkv9a2dDwp3x7gOR5BQie6egAvBzbQgdelIeMl9zuvfY95E8yErs7cqqyP?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Smooth the location of the plug:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4morQbFkuh3fTeW9OVJQmYho0OH4xh_PeFwrG-koaCYIYDUiYJ5xQvslJDFXeXbVvaKQcaQxpJJ9Hsu1nNdiVKfBfXPqrjCngMLfV9MZyr-pa5VvzROdtzotdSpoVFW_jjhqA0fMW1j2VKS-pM7y_77g-X8w-vcEVsvT_eoyV1SaGMXQ3TeqCvw_pcFnOGrZNM?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Drilled (technically drill size "R", but closest fractional size is 21/64") then tapped for 1/8-27 NPT:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfsTQ0R2BTfEZ7-eIjdVW_OxJiWfGWir43tng2kemO7pQjv3pkxNricVstov28HF2cgOUDVyeAeUIElLXzUHqHZcZ-dqCwgk9uFyaaA9puy3rSt93f7D1_s2kNCfHDCO4twVWm60NMp9wpRdA_bnUsUmxFDTqwqZAI6WDg3VQZQ1qokJdnWaEGLxs-10wJAQi?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I was gonna go with the magnetic NPT drain plug, but I don't like the idea of constantly breaking the seal of an NPT fitting doing maintenance. Decided on an NPT to Flare fitting adapter:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m04vzEOu1QR_rHcju4-TXt9iuFQ3k5TWmi1H4Nl4lXGqhP71P4pIcKauddzUFrJaGBEHU8dE5htnslb3zOKsHxRLpubxUVXiZYQaPAqAO0DuNN5UMH3i2KqIZpReDFoIdMyI1afvKLGxM0srWhrBZkPPLYCxJWlgi70MB5Bo5I1j5bPMboKeJbELcQrAczlqH?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now I'll never have to break that NPT seal. Just undo the cap:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mbwHhV9wis-SYYP7ppbYTrJ-x2HUA3kQ7zqf6dH-a3FfLYEB3iD_jzE05ESA54gsm59L07rzMC3CSsU6u1rqnd-6CADbNILa5VYnC-fnDkLw_7s7914KLqhTZfUWDPLMF7mf5DcDVD-naGE4bWqmUfxmIV032rBRZDf0fzrfP--_PvUve_xghN7ALjv3VX4y8?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Cap is on tight with an o-ring seal, but just in case, for double protection, here is some adhesive heat shrink to keep it from spinning off over time (that would be catastrophic). It's easy enough to cut with a razor and peel off when time to do the service:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqgSIckzdlPsvn7iw41t6EocOkx1wMimWRq4ojEJ18aBFiX6pDHgmFZHYmZCbkygW7bd_jnfNabe3a99G-BobRRNc-5mEnrRgsEPS2SzLgd3jARgD6f67LtaZGdJ9Q3D2zq3BwT8iN_mEoOI61mhWTzUFU81yftJI7dgHcDiFAGpN27UWXBpj2Y-ztHkC6mVM?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
PTU Vent Extension Mod And Engine Oil Change
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10612.msg159229.html#msg159229 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10612.msg159229.html#msg159229)
Got the engine as well as the PTU oil done.
Engine Oil: Pretty straight forward, just showing you guys the switch I made from el cheapo middle of the road Pennzoil stuff to some better Amsoil fluid (http://'https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?code=ASL1G-EA') and filter (http://'https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-ea-oil-filters-eaoilfilt/?code=EAO17-EA')...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRRVWHwFdFFXhoML6JGzobRf6lGCjK2gXC-D28kbg-hzLN4huPBPiR1gZwvi5iB2ERMzscjftUTtcZNIzBz3-VDtEKsQsvhNSGxScF4YGUR91H6Raw7l_u2MRT4UzzKFmvvhrzxRFa4HBXY6AjSAFTEFTkV8Gp7EA73IWU5iaWaklBiZt4a3Bw6Wa-_EaoMvw?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhfHB6bsRagiZU9Pjnpx8vVt5BARHZcfHyoyFjCYIc6shwponKuS8jHocB5lvcSiNUHkvjg7wj-zS6BG10oEC8FwMOYyeguH59WcgSZ0_PgC5EFwMcRKzO3Enf1FZLJ6F8wFa9EXjqgtIn78ZxciibODsjQgdtJlSQN4OizJQznthxuFCr1GgtFYseXFJ83Re?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Oil filter is about 33% larger than that cheap service station filter I had on there...btw, I WILL be changing that filter sooner than 25,000 miles, lol.
Onto the PTU. I am still experimenting with beefing up the PTU I have on my bench, but in the meantime, I am still running my original one and decided to do the drain plug and vent tube extension mod.
This PTU fluid is coming from somewhere. Top of the vent tube and vent tube hose was clean, so wondering if it is leaking from somewhere else.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1G4t0hoBQf0x6vAEmbT3RyFf_nnf8JX6x8hDctXgbrxlGUm5dxpXuEXy38ujzdoIAWi_ANAx-HIisrVHxNix29AcJKP97iKqS47i5j21viCn1mjPaIFzjb2sKXgiQGPclkgKKxSgBUdGUZNTghNndKRT-KfNacznmJlBBsnAh9DdXT1GEkduADzWEwfrJB6j?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
I like the idea of having the drain on the lowest point to get all of it out, so I bypassed the existing drain port and just added the bottom one. I was only able to drain out 12 ounces...so 6 ounces disappeared somewhere. When I drilled the hole for the bottom drain, I stuck a paperclip in there (bent like and "L") and spun it around to see if any grease or sludge would be on it as maybe those 6 ounces converted to "grease", but, to my surprise, came out clean. IDK...weird. I never had an oily spot on my driveway.
Drain plug installed...matched my RDU drain plug. Also put heatshrink around it to keep the cap from ever spinning off.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAc9lVkWKO2xATHgt-Hy1i7dSIuFD6xCluw1Sz5X7ZekuCdLjIpqNS-9hu4GllFfLxJFJNogMqBHPw2pDv686OegOwUuQkgo8409Pf2W0RZ_Gm2EuSYSU3HIOqNpBut4hDJBhHShnjb6LzHvmdNHJhyxRgvT6H6uHAq_qVdCXTouCga7TsqCCq2BHQKlZ5jsN?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Love the v-bands...so easy, LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4max-WNdfFhBZATVo-UIBRE-ZGpjqhLtvey2x5tE-bDj79evNNnAESJRAvP8HGEiTmn9XB49TYtI6WokuD9FfnrnkRa57fKwsoumWKeLRI08h35Y4jolzE0Rl9wx9uI8nrEq4PienBEKvy91CJDScYYQ8Nffx97LYxEOjU_bEEwUOboGRYS-0uOTmO0JYu3j-i?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
With removal of the front downpipe, I could very easily get to the top vent. By feel of course, but very easy to reach. Added the hose and was able to get this clamp on tight:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mU4Wd7u4B3Y5itkhcPVuM90sx_8AtCol6X-0T5j-WD6syxmc-NV2JZC3lNnXnfxcIq7IdHkxTpheenMPELcn9w-IGD03tNd0zZuKbMoqUefcvCu8KnsfqEMyAecOAvv2ryiieC0G1k6r2o0zq2HAdEgabO4bu_-EQmbFkOAA18A0iAdk9o1MqLU_jaKMKBJnp?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Used this tool to tighten it blind. Was pretty easy actually:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3Nv5SlhLMaZzfYaA6H7a0LS6Uu9PByLkwFmgJQUCv1aaSilclJuKdIHPHBz6W128ydoauzWUn5q6_4N12OhrCaqKbrav_TRSmIizowS7KJLlDyL4K4h7RJ8ujjT8TM5KckbPcRlMB7Ki25igEw6uBeiTO_-H4CA6jOeqJHKbAlbB6hBk2kJCLoChdOZTWlko?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Bottom end buttoned up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m107gAUPU4DmI0yhnCMscFm1cQ1W9Bt4fTqddj2bMrmHx7pke1I-6nfJxNm7BcMlZ_f323LFU2nCaUFMn4gCIYRg7UPyffvoyNRK66AodG7UfJCgGmfKPiVKCYfILAnqIG9mlFt5ZEyyT-DDTPqjTvErzeGbeeRtqPR6DSM32YCaFBeHZAUvqmPyo4G8sbgK5?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Removal of the vent cap and placed this barbed fitting for filling only:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mI1tyViCsDP2qpkUJpTrEDAmElHIPC4PlVUaUdKGwgS1Bd8HbM6HLll97d6yTVxsLw0c0_VG4OfwJKb6AqvjQp3KLkAZA_hAv8K9pqEysysEUyeHDmj35lK89TYvVBdEruBiN0w58AA-8VcrO3e6q2YjWpaj8Phb87pi6LjYeVc0UR2TacNV6kIdoNxai9g7d?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
For the PTU, I went with some Amsoil 75W140 Severe Gear (http://'https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/') lube. Since I only needed 18 ounces, and there's 32 in the quart pack, I poured out 14 ounces and storing it in another bottle for later:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mygDv_NmjsTk1_oIvYpYdz8rvaloqVrwp93B7fqt0AasFPhjxFsgMgZiFNYOnKjvJRQVbuFvnsMtKlnxj2s1wb20-b0Zq9IZB-hZD50MNai0EVe5SWK6DYtVvDtX_F8fEdmbZV5DTx55ALuLr1yOU3UYagWESuc6-iME31zldrdhQItARFtnE5JUKu7dbLSs-?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
IV bag-style fill job:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mM0GfDj6YeeFJ6xp3swtRiHY6jrQYC_VYyowCI9Cw0SZoW4Gdg9iYiMZAv6w-wrRExeZ0e2J9rTF6pvXMVZY3lxVDGvFA-6X5_NEuGNAcmGZ0qqw7AmOPZZ8i2pztxs1DJfU1FTHrHl-64QW3DPDNRTMqgcK9OeLutjAjZuIAMo80CcK0gYFti0JsY0an2JxG?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m51Zps9D69QITnY4WH4dT4CyP7DQzPxrNPwCVo0Alfzl0NidWvWHREeUpr7eMGinXsKbp1rHyB4X8LJJ5RdYZ6VhRTzNs6pqAqJWUB93TyvPsX7yf6hNQh7eQWNfh7RrvPsfaiPD48Qat4dYhBkcAmpB2F9lcA27WewVgZFGzN_L7yvlQQa8w3jMYld6NLOZu?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8yJGtCWBy14xVQ3ZRdNwGrWhG3QdEiGMfhV0cNEas8dv7U4mgg2QgH9kq80Raq14bVui_9Mu0gpIZnAEkFreVKhpWMX7kU8SAVaeJv4VYyg3Bu5lN2Kq8xuU1fcnf6qWZyJeVoSTkbZIeT3D6HhIQkIN8aHZ6vU6VK5v6bFFtpV112tTBS1ovAkqvbLqdhLO?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Hole was punctured in bottom of pouch. Even so, it really did take quite awhile. I let it hang there in the hot sun so it got very viscous, I'm sure, but still took a few hours to drain. On the new PTU, I will be adding a second fill line next to the vent port. This will keep from fighting the air coming up.
Installed vent cap, zip tied it off to the side and all done!
X35Design Phenolic Spacer Improvement
Looks like a great product and look forward to getting it installed to see if it can mitigate IM heat soak issues further. At the time of this write-up, he didn't have it listed on his website (X35Design (http://'http://www.x35design.com/')) but emailing Steve over there will get you the info you need.
When I mocked it up and placed the hardware in the holes so I can see if I would need to do any port matching, I found it suffered from the same issue as the BBK throttle body. Not the fault of the spacer, but more the fault of the IM. The bolts holes are just too large for the hardware and allow for a lot of play. This would make any attempt at port matching it futile as it would be difficult to place properly when installing it. So...just as with the BBK, I used the same logic here. And it worked perfect...
https://youtu.be/8Nee7O5FjD8
Spacer with gaskets installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIqxVpM8fxBkDPF-W9V1QXxAC2XHWNipkT5aEfEmeDAfLVx1lLOJLDdThnvLakZDFj_vKEWk6uW5amk5EqFLK0sqPyP3-Og7AU3e-op-oFpAHLiKbDIajwLVe0mVKD__6UA8s4H5M4V_9XJBzbzWlrda1c3JtwIMvUduDnWuVIBiTXKY72owDyaRCT09uzarL?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Thickness of spacer for those curious:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0q-x5Mhx4qe1qatidv4TqAF3tPz3_uMzOpsKn7Mgshdzsrs8MNqumWUWPJSoYKW5RnoVclHFXlx49HAjY3JnYEVh7TcR6vxh3BSO-COwSMqLRp1_9qYB8KxgO7H8pjTP9PQgcQXy2zXkNdZN3H7fKVdb27Zi9KAGQC6tDvSY_ySppju_SlQctoVtEYf3Qv0a?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Dowels created for improvement:
5/16" OD, 0.035" wall thickness, 304 stainless tubing, cut to about 0.8" length (can't be any longer than 0.9")
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4rW2kMnkQgt-YPOe2IIw6of20w9d_Pqsift82QKCxMKVEewfjVZzgciyoingoWSzmHjv-91jW4BitAO4JvifjaGSbU6CRKHEQSKkSJKsZ3LODi_gjpRI43h9tGEST_3Vm05IxEpaTgeCTNQQ9PSGKdjawqswipneErqsENFpE0kQNBg-4pBJAeK_1K9WclV2?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Picked any 2 holes far apart from each other and drilled with 5/16" drill bit:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBOeqjG4w-wT0zQKBma2lL1J5DtuM1Y7mKUuACYljn7FPKY5pLFzUD6JpFE5uatG8ye78-sljlnxxS02atkYH70gdfUzxPfVoOHQ3B5ox5jGCcBWLFENoCLiIaUHn3TcdZwzvnaRAwDTPDGqAD3nqf6OrMqHTp7c5UcrbPoUC_90_wIdqHyT0VMELpyqOdqa6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Drilled matching holes in spacer, same 5/16" drill bit:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mu1HR5_DWzZ_M8rXTpnHzCfyI9wj-qlnA-7z9RxeDAV2ZGA_bdzFtOMasOG8TpBHZ0Al6-zVMLvhuCxhJLKWt6YsysOvVe1_UdIp3FTbTWtM-nbJXjqfQLGk6oSbRMY1opVt3-ESHaVPXed8SgmPLiS9ATWnUMpQJADjFbg6BxTTQMyIgJ1jDTlRstyZ8n48S?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Dowels installed into spacer:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mi1oI2d84yWGxmtyLBR9PTQeG7f3yXKZyequcKFW28Tuv8rANwK5yd-WwDXHhBq0ITRHWMBb4yNzq5xIGkmojxCgKNvmsbAo1Hw2P22uWv2R965w7-Al1z5iayWTBC_RtMD7MUwvDEMR7tHxKDKI5U1-1SgrtYcv8-e6a2AktHFlnJqIph5U6R1aZZ7Cr9frD?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Perfect tight fit onto IM:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCeOX1Hvz6j3TROV5Vvewq9e3oVBxv_1m-jU-3NxgwblX5kcPCcZi8v8o18LxPiYYqH-PCJPyZ-GKQ9znznVPY3BfZ0r5MIPkJPlC-slV3NaoYu7TlAGHpmaY_ZIrzcqpu9N31TXLEDa0eQeXZyx7HfuyFg4xtILYS_bXlxIrozTBv9nIeu4KW3uuAliZOsL1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Will need minimal port matching, mostly just a little of the spacer needs to be matched to the ports, but Steve did a great job of getting it super close.
There ya go. I can probably drill the bolt hole very slightly using the same 5/16" drill bit for the match holes in the heads and push those dowels through the spacer slightly. That would get this setup 100% dead-nuts tight and centered from head to spacer to IM...
Here is a video showing the port matching done on the IM side of the spacer:
https://youtu.be/q_kirU9loc8
On the head side, another 5/16 hole only slightly drilled to accept the alignment dowels:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmeibR8xEyma1L47DCb1fl98v_FmnzkluS4_mlz3PaOpgBqt9AsdnQH86tgmrqOFvrZYSgSWkrYduquuQVBMah8yitYaF2Z4EJzb-gMjYgFonoqoaZj2snyLYvdjwi_7R0sg3EA4qg3HZNB5OLMGRfIz3cj78BQplk5JhKr1T50cpw7PQaSRyWvR3PSs5zNq-?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Both holes drilled (hey, easy now...this is a family oriented forum!):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJoXbNpTZVF1E_BiB-12o9bOia5ET2KrPPHaK5S4yiqY8fHKZ0PUBj87bkn6YnRndx7HP6Dx5KinfGR9VPnIwAp0x-X-YFYtshNk2DraLOcxiCWcc7Zkcq3HqA__JcPxrMWbSF-NE3GStHkWce86Mxa-YvAIkG65yP3Dx5WjREhGdM0dyrA8wNx8Ug3rphVoJ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This is all you need it pushed through on the head side to get it to line up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4cjp0EPfsMzKYhE9D7P9EBUKmoBFqoCqb7q9c7cuo-hblg50QldM9YnHceyXtCnXdTcw6F4gK0s3Q_w4i2sjFyqvh7erhBLfuDbANaipTgjVUIfLbryI_ldUzgmhca7rOO1YjSf8fhV25k8gxzPs2wT9baaFUXXYpVKsr82nZ7MF2ONTeD-qv4XU7WVjp1f6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rags stuffed into runners to minimize getting the dust into them while doing the port matching:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIO_AGmIrVBq6vjO9GogZUbOUHTWZQ-xhcwW7gcp9BUdJwb6BmvZkUf6OR85wgnpgbDiaBLmbFffcrpp9yl7MiGqh1Ybt9OO70IpLRz2ysbJuu1dI3WSNLVskqVLBdMz0u1vsRk72Kb-R716DUICkncqAf2y7NVYWJ7VBzAAqxyJBAK7kaw8Fun4US_S4K2vu?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Used the dowels and the hardware to keep it secured down while porting:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mObTDfEGMtYwmE7vkEMYnzlB05mgGr0ewLABoWDHpxqLLvK_BLE6foTYGCEHRL9xoWa2x2rWi8T9DsvTg7fpy6GkggPVgH5zKGro4DVkupSR4YPTKZNb_aKhV_BM0C2-Y71b5ruobGwvZRnrwYcjRNnunJgN3C_8AR_hM8GWZ6ZnZT0kxGE6b9rPXb9k2uIrV?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Video on doing the porting on the head side of the spacer...
https://youtu.be/vFu4HktZLIc
All done and ready to mount:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtTPEv6F8o5qJXcoaaYNNIRjp__z5urMy6tnhUMSO8J98cjS6KqqKdhoKzwEZTOI_jZkciGPccXuWlkGAPVyuLLJDKnkmMXqv5VeyTvXihLW7wvh4l9R84hWj9oGBYa-TsYI1e4IznIE_IMkyoVWybeapvp18wHS3RNcNfq0qU5RfIiJGJEkEfFGxd20K4dps?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Transmission Flush And Drain Plug Install
Had the local Ford dealership do a full fluid exchange so I could put the Amsoil ATF (http://'https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid-atl/') into it. Wanted to do a fluid exchange so that all the old Ford stuff will be replaced with the new Amsoil stuff. I brought them 16 qts, even though it only takes a little over 11. Just got extra in case they needed to push a bit more through. They ended up only using about 13 so I have 3 qts left.
All subsequent transmission services I'll just do myself and do the 5 out/5 in method.
I gave them my final drain plug to install and it's good to go.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqvyPu1nccBu9FqVJzmUmvX_wNSMSymRtww49brPFzDBWwg9ze-YPL3RgREhR0UaM69SwJrMLY4G9gmYsYuqu0A-CD6X6iSkmgF8GU-kSR-SbdrHbTc6rCT1FWQh89c_0fvA1jsh4ANeuFtQYo17gDThV29GXmAY3OlQZMWR8buDUz7sWzgT5_nmEgozqZTWr?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mxOAc3hAH335z5CEmYuaTGkG5zH1pt77GaD7X3G7zS2-E6QX3gCXJx72oaLLORYQ5N1vxRyP2AWytfjd_bIvALePFxt7xQ9UsQntNSmJULYAmIzmnwcr3u1KUCTYm5so6ZGB_CC57Ovu_Z3Hj02P8heBqdwxUktlXPVLTVcvZWgRwyX1RhbodMGzqOppWngfz?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Weight Reduction: Hood Insulation Removal
Not a big mod or one that took a long time...just wanted to do this. I'm always trying to shave that weight. Lost 2.5lbs BABY!!!
Pretty straight forward process. Pop off the retaining fasteners and then pull up on the hood (it sits in some metal tabs toward the middle/rear).
Before removal:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3wbCS7UGjWOZkcP__nOHX9pqfyxTmy28UHYCSjqQbfm13F4ncFafUw4-dadhppL_Q2ETpMes489efNEAes04BfkVDeozao5-Oyxj_AHHgFcpjspsSUJ7yBMyYRQk1rXjDao9LqyGD6PQQp3ksk3E3NQ_jhZ05jGNB0hAVyqfGL6nvYlQtrKG9cTRoaHz7HI7?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
After removal:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfFIL51tFN3qJioOhxkOkg3FrdWne11mYlYGFjdPR9oZbKa8BT7PLi9kTCXynnT02w3WvTe8NcZqDBCTgeLMW4e_sms59-k2MOiMKz_LWpFrfzpojEUAwL-0etxOLJWHSPrjqNJihGUku85y2hSK5nGlnZvV9-7ek9bhoR2H7xYVLpojsI9SxcwfZroReRiZP?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Weight:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQa2JZMLrqtdBu90rdMyNjVVQrepi-pf6ReYN5ZMiraYad5asceiAKbK3J2uDP7HTUgiAatwQWorqEtzrRJZbNrOIQEJB2RyOyQ5P4rHSaNNCwb4wuP33WGDF3gYo4okx32JUYQ_a_jTbtanJa6UU843wSLaeREXspc6Fra1B8KM3CjODOaDir8iacyKyueXq?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I really did it for some upcoming mods I'm going to do the hood and wanted to see what it looked like underneath. And for the record, it's not there to protect the paint, per se`. It's mostly there for noise insulation. I'm sure the hood will also get hotter than usual, but not worried about paint melting off or anything, LOL.
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~258.5 lbs
Weight Reduction: Rear Wiper Delete
Not much going on here. Just wanted to clean up the rear window as I NEVER use the wiper. It's such a simple job, I didn't take many pics at all, so apologies there.
Before photo:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mvArASpzR5NfxTQpnWOAGAH1VrlVVtlXCvXruamArtt0w9vPGG2GlM4KAsoeWjWxuGN6PHjqRd9Cq9iznh-35GIJTV3FStYpPHHNDBgoWdl0UUE1C9DRDuvrIgzkJ9xiwAItAiMtXiA1PYiImsUAIj-fyudNB6gTLgCbd_PI4A1vBmEnu9WGe1Smq-_xGX2F6?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
First is taking the wiper off, pretty straight forward. Just undo the nut on the stud and I used some VERY light taps of a small ballpeen hammer on the end of the stud to break loose the pressed-on wiper mount. Gotta be careful so you don't break your glass, LOL.
Now, you need to remove all the rear hatch interior panels. The top "arch" panel is somewhat of a pain to pop off and I did end up breaking 2 of the clip mounts off. One I was able to epoxy back in place, but the other was a total loss...not too bad as it still attaches properly and firmly, so no issues for now.
Once all the panels are off, just disconnect the connector to the wiper motor and remove the bolts holding it in. Take out the grommet and now you have a nice open hole in the window:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOFsWJ4w6wljHtHU_S-Z6IX1ivMz7U9Q2fITPNQyuGE855YlH68LZVLziqNu5rId-ARKWTqU-aHD0Jo2Tl2s9vhD-B7SFt_yJ04pEFMnsc9I82yhX6webbYDeClI46hnxuoC_p8LxkmXF3CC3HNnYne9qioMBdqC5VJjIeKxaNrTUhs9AxKYLTIdaH9yfD1zA?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Oh yes, saved another 2.5 pounds!!! LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkYd_cCPB4SlFshi-WHfiMC0IX84WNCPMFIS_55AgsVrFxSsXb67DZAHdpVU7y2PxOeOUEPMKRrXHm0SX3ZWKHRfdmMEsVAeATthMh-giLmoTZolRB_gtsyvFMxozxvHAyHDUaOsA0E0UD7Bpw1GXTy7p_wawFs6Aisasid2ia-mXdXS5_JLvghW_ryrPO_Kj?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As for the block off plate, this is the one I used: NiceCNC 2002-2005 Civic Rear Wiper Delete (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQKGD57/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1')
It needed some modification, so not all will be able to use it. I didn't take photos of what I did either, so apologies there.
So this portion of the exterior part of the bock off fits nicely inside the hole in the rear window:
(https://t5o97q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m8K3Qlcul7yfJM4QLIqJwQVck3kWIVsK9QCdObfvVQRdwb_X8aBY8hRxFWhd8_sk0i765fPG_3_TrxQor8YMrOpH-QfamNr7ArlXPNkc3c6XZfb7Zp5f5N1eaAtliMseZO5_6HvwmwjsknORx47vGmAE0ncZeGTN05shyaX-TxHYT3t9jl9h_1FJ4twn7iBJSTQkPayzsuMaQvMcHG1d0Tw?width=486&height=318&cropmode=none)
However there is a small triangular tab near the base that is a notch meant for the rear window of the Civic it is originally designed for:
(https://t5oq7q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mXmkxBvWpeRAYG4SuxzT7iokjMEtlafQcS67_X3QJLWAY4lR4Y697Ls_3YnAP2KuQfRxNaTmj9-39BNdTQMB3EI6uqmebbaBCXYCJtKy8ObTW7qkWjYRB1BxAMNXYD6FG5tinF3WkfMYsKmWkAkWH-jcqvdG7f2-hkdkbOOS0ZxuTI5hP6ETUWlLB02yC58ssER-0GWyUUewlhM7B0OfUeQ?width=490&height=410&cropmode=none)
WARNING: If you do not remove this notch, you WILL shatter your glass as it will put pressure on it, since our vehicles don't have that notch. You will have to grind it off. I used a dremel for this.
On the interior portion of the block off plate, this raised portion of the part will hit the inside of the window before the o-ring will, so either you won't get a good seal or, if you crank it too hard, may also break the window. I used a lathe to turn it down flush with the rest of the body of the plate, but a dremel will work fine as well:
(https://t5pa7q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4miu91-Lb9YWSZqFP6AM5R22vTr_hSZQTKAlzPQ9aqlVoCjdu72qaT8W8Z6nlI8YxSF0TH0vLU-o9ea_JsjtaOFkfjFZeDAJCDYpaDZxOU-lr1uiT_aT9NSp3AFCO-svzougMGAXR8ApxWV4bnxMN8o3n5esdlGuenoQW_Sa2CmLtZA74hs3l5rRzIBW9mTz9PjU3JeWxuJ0YMgHUB_Xf89Q?width=482&height=318&cropmode=none)
Finally, I made one more modification. It isn't necessary but will help with the appearance of the plate long term. I like anodized products and this product comes black anodized. However, even when hard anodizing is used, black will sometimes tend to fade into a purple. If it was just standard anodized and not hard anodized, it's possible it will even fade to something approaching a pinkish hue. Considering this is likely a cheap knock-off made overseas, I am guessing it's the latter.
In order to mitigate this and not have to take everything apart in the future, I decided to paint the exterior part semi-gloss black. Doing it properly with primer, semi-gloss black and then clear coat...with wet sands in between.
It would've been easier (and dare I say, look better) to have it powder-coated, but to have such a small piece done would be expensive, unless you have your own oven at home or have other items being coated.
After photo:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7YZ7QSEnDXSrY59iThKqFL89DcT6bSeK_DyyJgZJentAz3Xj1Qu7HWoWMWYVABehJn3aDAs_2wBjBcol-QHWU4QESfThIhc8WZUVSku1KBCWN_KJRg_lkeUG7ukvuAyxMo3cTb_e1c0GQzrZPQ8icanHiOOihxc2dfi_dXrRXOnynnzr7bzpxrJxzhr773gM?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Anyway, love the look. We don't get much rain here, so I never used it. Not to mention, my rig is not a daily driver, so removing it wasn't much of a concern. Not for everyone, I'm sure.
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~261.0 lbs
Removal And Installation Of The Intake Manifold
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10727.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10727.0.html)
I ended up doing this for multiple reasons. Installation of XDI +30% fuel injectors, installation of the X35Designs phenolic spacer, installation of the BBK 70mm throttle body, some heat management of the coolant passage underneath the manifold and finally, installation of my new port injection methanol intake manifold.
It isn't necessarily hard, just tedious and time consuming. I won't cover the injector install in this thread as that will get covered in another one, just the basic removal, prep and install of the intake manifold. I also performed the port matching of the phenolic spacer during this, but it is also covered in another thread.
Phenolic spacer thread: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10624.msg159337.html#msg159337/ (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10624.msg159337.html#msg159337/)
Getting her ready:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXiwmIRruwqaFZSxONjNUxqYl2KhsprOS9Su1zL3kOSnGz17Rcp79YP7aNTfpDrwHvQ9nG4X2wBFojRF4fe09ktN-HSyBQ9EWZirhv_px6LvlMNMqivLK0Xf3NZpsu5pQvPl7K8ax_wTExJ82GoAJiFXk9eFKBH_jo6-sTv9ZycRNpT5PaHJHxpnO4jx3Z__0?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXepxaQDiEcAch3PicUR-1ufWLk8nPp7gNjEZ75kq4acSyks9fgAKrXME4m6YmKRKWabbMJ2FcEe4Ap9KzJE4GP8kZuOhQA4MMxffXSEzl-xPwHm4pomKIyX4_Z947GOfr9tkuCBHNpRy31KkzgDhtN54XVOe1FAH8Jb0gYFC-uVE8SvBYcmtOo4KOFg8a-uz?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Removal of the hood made it easier to access everything and wasn't hard at all. It only weighs about 20lbs:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXE9VKtq3mgFZzmpdCzuwJwI3MzpgmZWFqHDt6mmyz_9JTRyW7vMhn_dgiR2LmCNA66jyaUNfsyphJkuKmz17hUXsIpRvE3ljaSHQjU1M-Itm6PaM8rkjMp2sTjaXdeeq1TpbYp_8s_4IwhzMw5EqcBPtSeG5kLLBrTv6Fi8c5HvrglCAsrdhgEjcHPDq1W8H?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's part 01, removal video:
https://youtu.be/Rk8brxLL3VY
How it looks right after removal:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2lKqSK30LxyOsULtbR58WpQ2DM7bE8TEO8yFzg8jdmmW3VdDLUExx8xZdAckOc2afGQt5ng-gqo0-I2-f_o1N9vYx3iUEYPdlfD13pjhWIPc6wV9MARnuDVfoovd_9Z6We3kCsEPXttlGjWq65B_pWNId5pNYaa86a735Z0xj6ZFc6P5kRhSMxqAY_CXQVgx?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Here's part 02, preparation video:
https://youtu.be/covLFw81EEQ
All prepped:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjbEAaP02mQCW-puZGKEOOz5GbXikaI2erTcZDHhNYV4k-DiBxLNOVPfS4W0vgbYeXwg04iFjNjpYOKBNdOrhnJkYQnjZKd2ZSx8LOrjh_g3vK_RUTGtDGR-uAlk-UtHWFT0uXD08USIkKEmJ9gD3l211JMYBr0pHmCQvUzdGXLON1ofAQDyJ18dsJIMOv87N?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
At this point, I completed the swap-over of the components off the stock throttle body onto the BBK one. There's a spring in there and some clocking that is necessary...
https://youtu.be/XfGt3zkFhcw
Ready for the intake manifold:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5CUb59uBvG3S42Y7l5BtHLxjJ1V9DsH2u_OuTEwXvp3ZbkarXDn_LYZ9MII1E_U1Ol7aPyMP7xKOcQd0yJuSkZ45iWSv9Or2yb2KTFmqtpAZriJvuJGiJqgXU9OFTpKvZezjA63VLEYETCntPaLrpksNOnxmkDrvK9-LAzXL_OJnNuPavqfQxNfT9YKTuRN0?width=651&height=641&cropmode=none)
Here's part 03, installation video:
https://youtu.be/sanjzfnVzpw
Got it going in:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m46o8JWluc_6f2JVhmdEgmN6jEmOapTvVRuqcspCG5YW5gHyBQ1uLqDsamlIJDZvYYBT_mXz3H7_5IghfZ6VyfxBzxiLXNabagUiBKFF3AL1Iagf5cKbOj4ABGkvpBenwdKw5iu9GuartgrUVtvJSXDZoDJa-slcSccahgHp2aMOMJ0e6Zwc3Wz1xPQ_AWg7A?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Before Shot:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwfUf3G-uyolscTGV2wQl4g2-U3JXZ2mZj8IP0__zxaJg0Gc_V3tRMq1DMQC0YT1Eg2qKaWm-OiCV6gobzVrUm9_awFgVLbHB3kuxsO06zZqbEvjvUfwFdLtVtES5LQWXabpFxocyiBQb1jkIRqM9u0DIQmrmZEXOiuiArBD2FGN4rSoQjI1LY8JXlVThWw8N?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
After Shot:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJHRU-cctTf1Vl9VYfQaYvyGpCC4bu_0bDhq3VJvLfrEnlsoN-mtTW3oQoIBmtiMzbIEiDMUx1AAQV06pulcxMrui8WAYhRB8O_bfBjitN6N-D88wKS3MaPc0m3b1ZbazzTsijQ-TYcgTVyaWszhsz8vNSrg4DyUt4MdhJ8KveGRqP-syvQ5Q1qUhB4clMloZ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And a side-by-side comparison:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfB_NTqdwjqQpxeNrbcAlldZd0VQzyXryAvBV9NwvrrDXJvjdCC9lhwbrT4I-A-aSqarJ7GvfpXJlMrmfMcv7eu7BW64V1Gll48VBO9wwUvHKYq2oAooWe0mC3RgFROsSUDfUKe6vtBw9Yzx5lgn2q1gCOCPcGeckUknyFCOQj0ilgL7PTssoTKt3Je8CupU6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Trim Intake Manifold Foam Insulator
ONLY REQUIRED WHEN USING A PHENOLIC INTAKE MANIFOLD SPACER.
Doing this was needed in order to be able to use the foam heat insulator that sits beneath the intake manifold when using the X35Designs intake manifold phenolic spacer. This foam insulator rests snugly on the tops of the injectors as well as the high pressure fuel lines. However, there is a "lip" around the edge of the foam that holds it under the intake manifold. Without trimming that "lip", the insulator will hover above the lines and injectors about 3/8" and not make contact.
I couldn't help but felt this allows for heat to soak into the fuel system as well as not "supporting" those components, keeping them firmly in place. Doing this also happened to help since I added an additional 1/2" thickness around the coolant pipe, so a bit more room was needed to accommodate this.
Some may simply throw this insulator out as I am not 100% sure how effective it is at what it was intended to do, but why not re-use it if possible?
At first, I attempted to use a regular razor blade. Though it was sharp enough and cut well, it failed to be able to navigate the contours I was hoping to achieve. So I found that my right-angle air grinder with a sanding attachment (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Q72U56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1') normally meant for porting/polishing worked great! It was so easy and was like sculpting through butter.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4moaqVuK5xsZNMttFlKNBlrBgZLYprR3u1FHp3b1I0OmcJ-B1dZtDb4zTWT1aUM-L1dl2aDczHIzQds8p2YVyRFHv2-hl9fo49qbvaghGY7eK7h1DtP7h6wQss3cjXWLuqojiZrfjPpHFFJR0iDXBIIr3e-4cP1sjqMQeZP6U0R8PR0vxLsFqXHGDtnY4VPmG2?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's a photo of the insulator (Ford PN: AA5Z-6P013-A). I had already started shaving one half of the "lip" (bottom portion in this photo), so you can see the difference:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBPY2F4FqjpAgR7suonxdoUUy05V21FC7nI6XV162cK_c4hjOas_rguTIiF3sGGmuMqZAx08qiHBnoKAjvkgzoo6Qv16ioHicRgKtsqMqDAfqwDMSIJRnh3XhVOyRqxA7TIXwIsIvUP31HOWeqK393EgiwQi-GJTUfjPgqaDyAI4lQpSFY1dPEMd3EBob_ieH?width=1022&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's how it looks shaved:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPk3evwdO3VIY2dtyEM-DqK5GBelEVunMFvpxm26GRsvPQ-RTusUsV8a5ZlZzByOHXDQMGQ8eSsaoO7ydkhxeR5vlxDCcSJedCum4e2vlvPIQfEcuDGpzOHqg-kcRPfL29QoKA5Rgscyy6Uxo32y8sVcJdJ0TF2FM_ETd9FO4YT4HNKhQhOCPW3sb1oKdW8dx?width=1022&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The sanding attachment cuts through like butter and is very easy to shape.
Finished trimming:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4men27qyOTbWx5atXLZfmXoGXHnlX8G_hqAo2_v_cYzi97ZOLzupjlGeU_LE3aU5mkk0RQTNkVhwCbiC6n_JPB00Lbxq4kJODMc_c4kPOJSaQInVAKtaJWe1G213u4YYFmSHzhP5TPSjHLGfaYRIXl4iQAER2g_c7cd6liRxJpnwMP30-uzhlGd2c0B3KGeXvb?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
Mocked up underneath the intake manifold:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmrm4_64AbIbBHx4uqnwoXRoQxcTKr7OJIzPQzO1tkgNezJL35OdmOHopJyr1eQDiVm3NbhPp6vHBEwvhpbTtQpBbljRyFXyF72GWC4oBInl3A_wsjHKjkv5h35hkbmBegvQDoxibzNObNMln8Ae3l8Sjqvu_1GqdY3yCn0TtE4YSdlPAUAJuPdMJy6cIKbZO?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I ended up having to trim these chamfers on the ends as it kept the foam that was around the coolant pipe from wrinkling too much as it was pressed tightly against it.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mznU_0iDhTD9wBQXWZdjdqMOepChvDVffRwXnzs7D_3dwSod6wCwiftgdDWkUsynSmg4WefBaZzQ5-b69sunzauA34u7qFi8jjzikSDyBtPt02pe4skYaoEt8XgAgoEx3zEDmvidhw37mbibi-J8NrwrdZe4Q9y3s17r5-nQRmmu8YWi0hhRHHhL4vukweorc?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhiGCMVIkZEZE-P9NAV5kmmgin8eJTpqZEUHYNGFkmEW3_T4R92IRE53ddrWbBvQmIo2ApnL8j0AwvitC7dui46bmYEwQ72y4prdiDRXSdjUrZ50a96u4DJDTbI3SHCEwMzDU1MfqL_U8ftpMxH67XKc_ni4DUCMUqE-PJwCR504R7fC8yOob8fw6BflQoICr?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Mocked up on engine:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5CUb59uBvG3S42Y7l5BtHLxjJ1V9DsH2u_OuTEwXvp3ZbkarXDn_LYZ9MII1E_U1Ol7aPyMP7xKOcQd0yJuSkZ45iWSv9Or2yb2KTFmqtpAZriJvuJGiJqgXU9OFTpKvZezjA63VLEYETCntPaLrpksNOnxmkDrvK9-LAzXL_OJnNuPavqfQxNfT9YKTuRN0?width=651&height=641&cropmode=none)
Finished install:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCF0TN4t4Thvkr1yCW-ncOW7AE14JHMoFbRh6tP03jVcS1ujk0lihkcWNURNzC9yG8EHiEyXODIhI0ykX8g3Vq0GKE0NQNboK8-Z5qlcd6HhevqwLTRwfoRqutCkE9CqcJQsILddF09e3ve9s8ghbOmYn6O1TzXjOB_vFX-fOTGT9WvHO7-QFTkki903FdEnR?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
One change I would make would be to somehow secure the drill into a vise or put this sanding attachment onto a drill press. It might be a bit easier to sculpt when holding the foam with both hands and having the sanding be stationary. It cuts so well that it can quickly get away from you if you are not careful.
XDI +30% Fuel Injector Installation
So this is a subsection of the larger modification section I was doing with the intake manifold, phenolic spacer and throttle body. I broke it out separately in order to highlight some of the things I learned along the way.
XDI has some awesome products and really does a lot to support our platform. Uwe over there is a great resource and can be extremely helpful even if you have a custom build. He sent me an early version of his SHO injectors, so these are technically his Gen1 version and have a +30% capability, but his latest SHO injectors are true +50%. Check them out at Xtreme DI (http://'http://www.xtreme-di.com/').
Here's a short intro video on the upcoming tasks:
https://youtu.be/sjbZmxVbCt4
I took my time on this install as I wanted to make sure I got everything right and not forget any steps. I'm sure in the video set, some of you may find some things I could've done better. Let me know, as I'm always open for criticism.
Here's the beginning, removal of everything:
https://youtu.be/g8wyExGxwxs
And here is the preparation of the heads before the installation:
https://youtu.be/SD9ya2M_FsA
This is the tool I was talking about in that video:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6LfO65JvJDngt0ti0cSVW2v7hMvruFecbtfBzrHdRLPKtrgWylHdDmsC54fLhA2mumM9Si_AcZNs2ZZlhyaeON6-qfnDw1PQ7U96IDMpKXOrCw7zXt1YTOewrrKq3bMaDO5IHQqWhqPQ7Zn59_uTFMtAoBv9zkumsYT1UE27kokuY9_LjWQCf5ZkYFfc83_p?width=1022&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Might be able to solve the issue using other methods, but figured I'd just get the right tool for the job. It's way too expensive for what it is though, tbh. Not to mention, the bristles definitely have a lifespan, so if this was something you had to do often, you'd be having to purchase another tool over time. Anyway, it worked well and gave me peace-of-mind so that's worth something, right?
Here's the preparation of the actual rails with the injectors, before installation into the heads:
https://youtu.be/DppwX1WRTWw
If you find some injectors sticking into the rail itself, I used this to tool (Craftsman Lock Ring Pliers #47386) to pop it out easily:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mdUbgUc97uSvAg1NIwNsoBCjvCSsHGeJrJUyidgXvsLNEcuHzsKY6B753_L9tA9KuRdNSsqqynbYx5-PDfp-ghDvP9kMYburQQ1KqoPZLQTZ1EA_ZhVT5nxXfqEdkPcRcufLhd5ED2esuGN03c0qjRs4u5XPF6cPNmSyqHErm6-xdaRD-k2EB6w9RZrD9Ikbk?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYYxIkZnn8eIkCBBd58tpZEtQimvQK3jplKh052Be9UOM-W5nXb_qSp1BxH2EJ6zYF8RGOTKkJWEcL1_aYBGuxQ_W8qAyHMbp4h6K1fftaHZdLqOPZOPh8M1LHSEB1-gTb2Qqo-r1IGCdhl2NobtROqN6L1ViUZ4MWw0KtiZFGf8u2ylMiUt3-ok3yyKEqd_0?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Used the caps and plugs Uwe provided with the new injectors for storing the old ones:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mF272DkefEHI_clGmloUKDCECVVS-IDfXXnKzVD21m3DF9tkzBw9Mkql8eLtAXwESL6ZrVslIdjba1jcqKORH1z-PTIvuAcxefmCfO-isiUEZTCj0RX_bQ3UfDieWEAntO2DJi7CXscjqWaFmGLycYZ_QMRklC2NrlJcpEjEaWcdT9yUVpWm94YRBMqy8fiPp?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
Rails getting ready for the injectors:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSLMdGmJJxgdcThibpDW-31PkI0p4-yDcD9J5u3IpOEQpJYAhpmYPFWMqAIl90JTbWe4PVdQ1YsJg8r3eMU7b-TiZrNHz1hVjs1a2VrBDhEliJNv2i45T1AAhyNqGVyq54BtwVqzsrCb0JDk-CNS--a9hpv2M0TT0wBO8YzlpVHx5yHaRNAHgzmU3Nrz0FER4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Since it was off the engine, trimmed that hook bracket off the new HP fuel line. Just give you a bit more room to adjust it as it's not used anyway.
Before:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfINlKyW7vUAHrQGYbKEOUX6rHPLvPoEjnDbcXH6WhLD3JIAgkmJhL4qV7OGZ2TcHmOvctxWeJu7jdVM0AB3cQwHObN6cO0t_pRD5tAolw7ixFVamO4kgFxcu-hDLGR89w95tMkIuuy5uq25KZvFepklhufdXj6FnXxbkAKTgwmEq2LW8o0rVDzTfQvuY961r?width=1023&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mghNoR3qYGvrMPB0PGAiMlE2P7Se97jAXxNTvc7pD0VQP6DPOQMOn7w0xWmy2IdcL5nDKzTYXUzP7Kx_pg0FI_WiTFnykWaDY_0GEtmGp9ZIS2VoF3MDghkAJTeonjoT7zzNgOqW4stkDQ0nkfIitxexJ7SPYG1t5srpx4wHAysPRGoPwS_l4H0aENmURaqOO?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
Also shaved down the head of that bolt it normally connects to.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3oJ8yzAAllpcHLd-aUIeDRbkVbq-Eqvjt_4Lk1uIbpDMaEQr5j0D4zIJcXYtNmyPWijVY8OuvtX8ulVyXudavTvizOKUTKBfZIciIN1vCCedGuYqSRfc3TKDPS1rGRFJfqbFcycL5NdhKGzyy_B5eMtnY91AVnT3jDNf6oIHTZ-njSzX_Ibl7Trmw1Vnq-AG?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Actual installation:
https://youtu.be/lEzkWRQNYfA
After this, just gotta proceed with installation of the rest...phenolic spacer and intake manifold (covered in a different thread). Although I've heard you can at least start the vehicle up and maybe idle it, I wasn't going to risk it. Luckily it's not a daily driver for me, so it wasn't a big deal to wait for Brad at AJP to get me an updated tune.
Here's the injector calibration sheet I needed to provide Brad for tuning:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqAYRf0Aibip-XB3nkxHI9KUZE8expA0E8AcBvrYG5yhgMdLfuum7PsNhnAeVVF8zqNCICo8_7OSoeWFIwFm-D_pXl9qqqlfW1BJDUpg1Oqj7nCbyB30krc1GYEapBIh7bfYOldH9sMboacUy-41Io0o86Pb7UGP72uj02NKCpoaF1mG5EwpfozMOicbWWyv9?width=1024&height=709&cropmode=none)
Got the new preliminary tune in, did a full coolant flush and took it out for a small romp around town and man, this thing is beastly. I am doing datalogging with Brad currently so we'll see when this iteration is finalized, but I'm impressed so far.
Thanks Uwe!!!
Changing And Trying Out Brisk Spark Plugs
Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10700.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10700.0.html)
This is sort of a how-to on how I do my plug changes as well as getting away from the FoMoCo SP-542 and trying out a different plug. It remains to be seen how well it will work out for me, but I will definitely keep you guys updated.
So on the advice of a pretty good local tuner, I decide to try out some Brisk spark plugs (Brisk Racing (http://'https://www.briskusa.com')). There wasn't necessarily anything wrong with the 542s I was running, but with the power goals and modifications I am shooting for, I wanted to attempt one additional step colder of a plug (OEM was 534s, heat range 6, 542s are range 7) by going heat range 8 to see if I can squeeze some timing out of her. Although I have limited personal experience with Brisk, a lot of top shops and tuners use these things. I did some research and on the advice of that local tuner, decided on trying out the Silver Racing plugs (hey, it has Racing in the name, so it MUST be good, lol). They are heat range 8, which is 2 steps colder than OEM and it remains to be seen if I can get a bit more timing out of these or if they will just foul out. Oh, and they are Made in the USA so that's a plus, right?
First thing is getting those connectors off the coils. Slide back the red clip on the coil connector, it's easy enough with a small flat head screwdriver:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1X_6E73dA-VI0qNvt7__BWZUD99Dxs7aT2nZxYx463y4utNpXUGDDg-L_wm9Q0Css3iPpfd3ki6-XATp9Xo-fdU7ZK8s9oVN-waygvG_Tg0wrx0d8geyET2wcjaFO3dHvDhnIFdK-rTvwNWoTyMr9TlmPOr7Z7WA43GpX8RDPUUr6LmX5Ar39GuurYj7mA8L?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mb0dy4SoH0oMombNkGT0mBVovpRJV2gY5ZdVDIkklvj_2EvvoXtyqaK9D07VzwtRGbE790SYEj9nzvyvf7h4m_gMPB61gxFy2Gl9C5DiApTCmYGoDauiXomBv7-ULIsCb9Hy9u-Wsalo-aG-1QswII-WQ7zPcFTYGcex_SoV3iqN0V8FEQUs0Ab8OzbaC-LLy?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Then just press the clip retainer and slide off the connector. After disconnecting that, use an 8mm socket to remove the coil retaining bolt, then pull out the coil. Even though I only complete one cylinder at a time so as not to confuse things, I still typically mark the coil with a sharpie identifying which cylinder it came from.
Before you take out the old plug, it is important to use some air to blow out any debris that may be residing in that spark plug well so that it doesn't fall into the cylinder. You'd be surprised how much junk gets blown out of there, despite them being "sealed".
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4macVfK3toBpHyOhm1ZmhcHj30Y2Rtt6wxLejS35idkeZZY3KoFp1URqv8T-sm6psPNnvu1USlLwWURV7GPi5Mjg8d6QTRWjfi5p5Fo9SrLzx7H923zhzln_b9v-d05OUOT_o7UA1REUKeSfboDyZ8m4y9Xsq17Cd4Tq0LZqVp8gvjSdfN3eUMuFRXCFMCJtW-?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After pulling the old spark plug, I look at the condition of it, mark it with a sharpie as well and I personally keep my old plugs for at least until the next plug change to compare them to the previous set. So they go in a zip lock and stored away.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mz6JMJKIDlMbsSWZD7JtEa2pV6uK5vLNFNOdKCybOXyRp92CWdZIkv7MZdAwQttIkEPZCPXJgcizTvCZDkoJHM1smPbl_l8AseiY53FX3rVU6UT8t6ZOqu3SFRHQLFgbiP-lwvZDDBbVaTsvuMXD7DDL-TBOe8yhqy8RzXPCbiB3imhlW9OH-IW-LpmIpNuGK?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the new plugs (http://'https://www.briskusa.com/spark_plug/rr12ys_spark_plugs'):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzjFgA45FYZ3LFgGHY7GbohGV9rn_hBVEM2RD78JjHxOAQY41KkUUVj1DcrVHZVCdwsrfb0AQgqSHwwO9G2bapVaPeChqrDV-3S8pQDfh5rmvfDGVB07_HTHviVey4Xk6hAHoliliRQero5ZHsEn_ntvR4uLfpiCuC82oref35EFdnSPbGuEmZQMEw51dPSyS?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Side-by-side comparison:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrsJvigwJRhoh3CRvV1VF_giBWBewtDy4EfRIo8flxOsxNOyE6kkGQSDNB2b5ArvFC7udMcoTiJDsNgdVuxXgazBJ-tn05NBjaQiptyXDZKQMmzfk-itZYT3P6KI4xgSv_Qy6bn50BPRtrqbDdmh2x6VRZHeubEvyyCbxEHIfiNoP5N7gqeb20HAWEzJ4Pmmd?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Tip/electrode difference:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mC_Z7HBKQQK_I0mjaze-_sZ7ot4j0MvahF7RPR6Jmc9VLQz_rS6SvGepnAV_xS2cVzRf-EciU2m9c7oA48mXw8dvKWSr1PDCneEBJRqlutZJE9VEkr60XZnD4FMKLrAjNNxQmCOJu_6guIevIU0ZPNywEcYT1jCtsidVaAzM769PNplLRRXP9-M6gSrXjABuC?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I had the SP-542s gapped to 0.26 and went with the same on the Brisk plugs.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZTqAQUERcRmYMtTgwKWBN8bvbiF6XzseO7H39gf9tWWzqTwTUkjcWnNagSOUNGQeeDpFZtIoyFHVdW2uxfsBp1TWCT3ZYfpnuB652bOK-u_7BkI-YqzmzpqAvy2m3oRHrl3x2spGZArRH3LlluWfkihsm5_EH3n8RkZT_i4Jn-f-xHakq7TM7ePs_6Yq_6Hr?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miN9IAIpWJ4e246O4FUIDpLVDuUoI3F8q7n6DiuTNOnkEGyYyeCr5NE7tifsOHdGM72HVRH4oZUK3JTANvjfAPwtDyAfBNdDwRrPXw0tHLbQtck6cHshwrBBVt2EpH1fYBewPYrRxZXLhLLR7-wSOgSFcwCpo64eHNojtXpiaMmB2EamnYR-5HKZhNBDTeOsk?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I use an old piece of rubber hose to put onto the end of the new plug as it makes it a bit easier to install by hand into the well. But before I install it, I give it a good thin coating of some anti-seize. You will thank yourself later if you do this, trust me.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mNsxvvLXl2diD9Bil_qKIMLvQhIv9t_OesVbVGFzQcnJRh-dKjQka3xqfe8Ev5l2QXl2iIknUIwaI28jw49wztfrg7lFIz36q1gUgraQ9eq4cksGw5_24pnGN1_CFw_PeHd4xWFNLkFipZVcrZuvaszxyE2jghybtmixcnIFKuifiZfEVNOQddS4gFpDIOW6C?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLiEHcNA7sjPdpex8din2F_DkATTA3Xf4NuLkrF7bqvvFPT_oge6s0XrJ-dYoIPIYBLZBIRY7g_AO82ZUguM-JkercV9-noLINAh8I1JrvY9TlFJHMG4l0-_1vizR6iVqWpS7fMLVpwBZlsJ0o9gzyOVjkesG5yrgI8HXYl5WqdeN9Fvez-JQ4curzg_gwmJd?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Factory service manual says torque to 133 in-lbs, not much, I know.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m30YdDiDAFIEptuLKpJ97cpY7f2ieP4xTgMvZ64rsce1g3m9DIs9F5pxA8b239eCSbJlYPRK8gGNzmtmBayLk6cPu4gjv6dSEJSXPAIfLyWsmzn4VyGiREv_upbOu5y637AQ8CfKOmb2iLqbhhcjJ26wlbOxLqVf0IUuuVexPnNG6GFTTuIyGh9sTSzmbspJF?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
If you convert the in-lbs to ft-lbs you get 11.1. Comparing to the recommendation provided by Brisk, it falls right in line (the plugs are conical seat, 14mm thread diameter going into an aluminum head).
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myGCpawmJH9u5tPdGSZZaGlz0zG4anC8VtuZZ2jx4sjtCNDrNniPGEmAmvKk0NZxgb6EJDELBnzamsWJrrqvEVipujtxiIKyr3hO4nJgM-BdqUvF0nQ0T1VF2Tz_mI_VTp9EZ-eV1Of1IpEq4v9js8xJQgq7PBXNvODYl1mO54MIXcCgSzKUocPiU4vnGA4cO?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After installing the plug, make sure to use a small amount of dielectric grease (I like to use Dow Corning #4 (http://'https://www.dupont.com/content/dam/Dupont2.0/Products/transportation/Literature/TDS/10-1187-01.pdf')) inside the coil boot to help keep moisture out as well as ensuring it doesn't adhere to the plug and become a nightmare to remove for the next plug change. In the photo showing how much is coming out of the tube is the amount I usually use.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjULcMYyfZytr39GyyG64hdkHw-eWJHav64DZ93ZHp2f1Wwi_mSk34q73zmOsevV4dLlqxvWrzIzKW8BgErU0PwLbQAsh2TNUQ03hN-YNstj2TUpiU__2wfemydEol4teIY_dYSGV1bjScy1oIhss3F0tmCQmZ1duI5lW391dtwiusk-qpkWwmVjVj-7wfWw4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mpXDiCjK3YmcvupSrYtEOYjAr7xTFV27t17BXVyQsPsnzTsn28OqdGmhmgWXmNs36gVUEoBzc_jAt9pdHiStStWsJ3apzwnvHzTKZRVc47dOiBhmg0RvGjHfwTNWllQ7HxGdEkYmWYj93sUoTEYCmv4IMscS9zd3lm5KUpTKu48uGMTlGY_8vCX-bXlacnkkA?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4meucruTftK7ssR2F9_1EB04ZoJb1CTc1nJwvNypZu9XfQ_fuGUf01aZ_-tZ6e7Uxa7-f_EtkdVj1Wu1q6qgrqIWSBaeFX1FcGBB0LPfUnNptJJCGpGhgcw4ckU1x3rhks3s7-OwPh6oJQM0HeAd8R3PgRtoL2a0sl0QlbTs2LY7j-n9lRuyvlQL43XpGHtxaL?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After that, installation is the opposite of removal.
Some tips to be mindful of:
1) If you have the composite valve covers like I do, be very careful when torquing the coil retaining bolt. The threaded hole is just a metal insert that can spin on you if over-torqued. If you spin it too badly, that's it...I don't really know of a fix other than getting a whole new valve cover, maybe some sort of epoxy. The book says 62 in-lbs, then another 50 degrees, but TBH, I did that spec on one of my retaining bolts the last time I changed the plugs and it began to spin (yes, I checked to make sure I was in-lbs and not ft-lbs). So before I let it get too bad, I just left it. Luckily it was in pretty tight and didn't have any issues the entire time I had those 542s in. This time around I was just very careful to do it by hand and get them as tight as I felt comfortable. That seemed to work pretty well as they are all solidly in there.
2) If you have an XDI HPFP, you're going to have to remove the low and high side fuel lines as well as the top 2 bolts to spin it a bit to access the coil on cylinder 4. I think I heard XDI had a redesign, but can't confirm that.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXJNS2fSri1DZDFyTccP4eXD_aZGP5IM1cJU0hri9nlGRMo9EzVGz4WHf2c82lJrgYSVZhkxQA-AmanYnXDOAYSxc8q-rntIRHlxCllA25oa-hPRURBtzfnAmnXrVQPIRWgt0TyHgEN9vXPk-p6G-ZnesC3djhfl4whlpQNnpgmwrWyR78UzImXbQUY_9b4ei?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3KF_8LjYtwRlk1_67jdNKkCVmGBK0-eZFYFFKaPWCQejlLj1cu0CDmcwxQysWoMvJ6amwbPVAnVG2yCtrSdR9VuRuIK0AJQrQiNaq68x_EDf-J9gDOXf_6NI2z4qwmLfY53WurwTpo2V1PH76bVpL_ff6jdEj4lQPsE0ERSXmeHQ92KESCmIza57tKgc_Dxm?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Anyway, as mentioned, I'll keep you folks updated once I get her back on the road. After doing some research on the Brisk product line, I gotta say, I'm fairly impressed so far. Now the proof will be when I get some miles on 'em.
EDIT: It's been brought to my attention that there is an easier way to get to the #4 coil if you have an XDI HPFP. Simply remove the low side fuel line AND remove the low side -6AN fitting out of the HPFP body (there is just an o-ring behind it) and that will give you enough clearance to remove the coil. No need to remove the high side, 2 top bolts, or spin it. I have not done this method yet, but will the next time I do a plug change.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUeAPHo5RPZn_ZEhpAIfTX25p6bn_Q2YBnJshW7uldtAKIhecNo_uh6sB-p27Sb7dtjE5hIsn3HC4cTf0IIS2P77fsahNoeT2HAHwMNkt7rOgrl5kIdjjXgi6qvkv1wC1n2PSX5bNUfrAPRTeFup_BeCvytbF-r5KNN25n3wjUCnX75FfM-92jooTNAemVMjS?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Extend And Move Hood Anti-Theft Switch
So this modification is being done because I have some plans for the AirAid CAI...I'm going to have a cover made for it in order to make it truly separated from the hot engine air. It's location makes it more difficult to make the cover, so moving it to the other side was necessary.
Looking straight down on the airbox, you can see how the bottom right where the switch is at would get in the way, or at least not leave much room, of a cover for the airbox:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEp7We262DWKpEDTuibsZFXx-MzYJwNsbj5G1I_lmijaOUQpNzG5EIYVx5birOZwDWv1TiYHJq6VQ8uLe4Z78nmoMmHiWj3bc1qm_NmsLOJsk3tqzCR34zrQmggxFjE8SwZmdgqx8IznWDZLcMrsz2l82D-h1fxyeuKnaRFySx9WrMeIHffWptKj-kEehH-zK?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Another angle:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQDIEt-bKxlr4BzxwXWG0zNhp9pFIoyA_0MAYrE4Cu4afJrSrjneS3l0hITn2kE3rnwp6fgp2fTisu4Eql8vx0whUvKL5b5_8U1n_p3iixpfASroq77Z9hjISp__wePF8qTwD4rmpX0-FJRnNvfDBkcRbqQQn5P-jR3XmTRPW6M6On4S3EL_DE1R4ME6I4Y_M?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The box sitting inside the airbox is my battery tender...disregard.
Close up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mTMfNM7HZzFUCNtIBs468jzlpLGH7c_yQ7R66QF74KORR6wCVNxNYGhJGJpuiwe7XqS7oySJsppUcVEjpzbTxmJoxvBJvBoOS09EgUkUwc2ucVIqMdwaSxt9_cVs1uvbrOYCLo3IpJ6_pD8E_P0JnW8s6EqjgQ2WkJiIsEM5Y21TLsfVSxye4cND9TvPkMRnA?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
On the other side is a good location, very similar to where it is on the original side:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mbXQ1zEM-0gZXBcmG6GkwVdplqmMVxJETOl887uEm2qGmqNDOljBb68ag6R9JRoMlDY_ErdDtZvnaUw7WYID54me-mjD0KesSwcab-d99Hhtewu9dgF83ptXWosI0qG8QNSo0Hyrbz_TNx1p7yANXSkDZrM4sqZ7ydXb4yetcE0B7YWc0kIJJxoY3DKiJnkbb?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Just used a step drill to achieve the proper size. Ensure you measure the original hole to accurately get the new hole dimensions:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSv7GiGkaFnAsycNbln-6JJE8ROZDhvcHrNp8k1Mle4rE3-Xa8uWAR1KNqRleVg_K026Sl1VCCKtCcrLqRT5DRtHfVBJiibrFE457eU18ob2BO6b45rxMMd3rOOi-4AYTVE5Ot_wh0zqBXVLHxre-btrrJdUqeR82mCN3c2gKkoND_boDrCCeEe7C3BxKc-TJ?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2BxV5q0NBEIGYr1Sym-ckwJ40TNJvivfVsp-Giy83sF0hM-vnd_rduRBCKgKICl6Y-wxUvcdLELR3nf0fcq5u_mGIP8jXLoTU-NV1mzSxEh2Ri9aUcnh3nei9ybclps_xZEzlX6pCtlzFrj0AAOZDsHQRlrsVR12sN58KizT_JUgiKALJYQef_FjSm1CMhio?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Ready for testing to ensure it switches appropriately:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSfZ4fwULBJ0d7hNdwPlqtH-ue0uJVgrmym-SzHsqymgn-jagzUNcEFL2C-e1q8xHbTMFftnx3pyUSThczBEz2AhDa--we45cwYw7mXU8JVxFjuHoL7LOM7Umq6i3CHxtLK7vEy2Dzt9uSlcUyJI-bX-hUV40GI5vM67sb0CaCqzDMQNDPnhRTQai6mGmmp1g?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Conducting testing, and all is well. Switch changes appropriately when hood is opened and closed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m24DA9rRMWixsstNDqMs-kFn8nPB5verYSRoGhLyZtmvUaiWFHZnJZtcABYN4SxRTLRZedEdFYphLxqOapByY0PONBVB3CpMr0aJXF9N2Gr-nVI71jzNJaWFhg7L24o-75YQUgSBOknMs-BgrzC1olil7umnsYW9P91eRHPxFtsKTLeFzQzTzW9dnXuVsozCi?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now it's time to get rid of that extra material:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqEx3sqWqWWtsUz9iziE0LK5EZkfBeXOLhg7Qo7h9b_QNant2EfuEEOzemoUbfHDOcuRq8clu1f2J-eAlOCJTtSHB-yWNQYhYDO9-OVIneiPVs5AJwdR-o_W0_yBtcwtiTq_bvOzYvWGMeksRloHwMdISxz-u7rHizPC7lLjo5kGJH_J2WVqT99BgfAR1KAyl?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I just used a dremel with a cut-off wheel attachment to get the major part of it out, then changed to the dremel sanding wheel attachment to finalize the shape and smooth it out a bit.
Finished product. You can see how much more room that gave me:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m57sp0eKdAbjjIMZhIa7WR6jdGRAVmsTs9zm_WlKjc-WRkSuCUXhawCUTP-qiLz7bP7pJCnE7ihEQpbIFDuH2_JDSEJQ7s9wlPllCBEknok9HqDNT6Exf5Tbb4MSPi4meB5dwrrE1T9xhpkV06OZcIEHpBRBS3rzu1tv2fdU6zmGn8p0jkxQaqOvguAuYiMSq?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now, moving onto the wiring and actually extending the connector. I didn't like how the wire was coming around this portion of the radiator core support, so I drilled a hole through it to make it a bit more of a straight shot. Not a necessary step, though:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAyJrIsfqjGFkkf8OaLdzV1uUibcwbwOsR-wU_gI9ra847fFJGRZ7DL-0-PPafdGz0tutIi3oTb_suU08ARBzGz5bxSvwV27oxG-6aZYwQy-v9n_2TPnk6qWkxh1hRbqQwsMZEjNaUbGTQIto0ngyt-QTtsCB6QijLGKy6AMHXW2T3pmM8XkpanC3bbim_xBj?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
In order to fit the wire through that hole, had to cut the connector off. We will be splicing it longer anyway, so no biggie. I gave myself a little bit of extra wire in order to have room for the splice:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9cxRsJK_ee0yM5IKw825-l-sfVVZEtnKLkmQ5REF4hRYEBg7t_2KQUpZ5DIb34Zofr25sv-Y59Ydr7rnUJTKYHcIOygQI2BD8WO5dVDbSbpYdR35LDHPLBTcVIsGt4qma_580nzvPYuMLgWIE-2VQJ9DJ0A0Y8VMrDePsqv2sC4AukdQIqdBVXqeAoPxhKT1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Fed the loose end of the wire through that hole previously made:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJv8EFXPVa9xqyVFGNG2Tp23k5020XklXOApLfJDwN7sgO-sO6Z6UYACMgqx5Imo3KLwsGknQdEmDVXgHm5-HsrEMDmxi1zlnfmm1BqrkfgS-nvsm1YQiX0R3ReizSXY1LvFE_QwyT7JYob1lzzfR49hdd_5_QHhFfDmVSP4aASYGxI5jSV_DNz_K6ySKSs7G?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Close up of the splice connector:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYKHEEVS-ydDcRsg6vyAreYd1cgpJOABXD1q6XFq7l9y4Fy52BpCZE761WmpoAbJrdcb9YbMaySG8TmcIvTgOmbZYI918HZlmq2QWejvlR8QKgYtmGuRFLkvJoBb9IIvqsw7H_yxNWVzJTJZKSaizmiuR06siJKP12_e_CVKIgXot9gH8Jw35J-T009jGnWeV?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And made a video of the complete wiring process:
https://youtu.be/wu9sRW7cgbM
Upgrade From Sync2 To Sync3
Easiest mod ever. Took me all of 20 minutes to install...gorgeous and I'm in love with my interior again, lol...
Got all my stuff from Jason at FLVP Mods (http://'http://www.flvpmods.com')
Sure I could've hunted the individual parts down myself, but it was an easy one-stop shop with everything I need done for me...makes it easier:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mpW3JSx0E5s0YkmYYpV473DlSeW01fRK3z5-6g0KYaTmWtQrA5epluAbrQWtaJqqDZL9qQZBHapy3RQ6cEANBItlXsi1tGsi-RaVkIq05ND314e_EkIHF0X3YKJEaIiR-BeRJWvTN253UBwnqB_KXp75sAfX2koBK4M2jR2kteoHqlzeGUXxPM3h6ksIJZMVk?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Just have to pop off the 2 side strips, remove the control console, remove the screen/APIM and the old USB hub.
Here's an excellent video detailing the process:
https://youtu.be/UMvzU0Wah1Y
It came pre-loaded from FLVP Mods with the Explorer splash screen but those can be changed in FORSCAN:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCRqEyBbT04MZY-LWhZx-Luq3gq5-y0T4NcKoh3lpk3evgZ3dDyVrsqW6_59JYCVQHgASi_rGwBLRy-9a9sFMaWg4CHmu9iD2RDBXOtvbw8OFHsMlC-UcmEvPfQc2WQQ-6cziYLFTUsRuDv8znf75FIH_ugelXa4nQBmIkHBYefxVVqhnmDmmqiFzRmnuR_KN?width=1024&height=839&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0ltgavCWqJQiWsb1_TVQTVbHcYsI7Z-4rR4ahCvVgzHSwCr1cqNpAorsQ1OYe0TD-XK0ddfnoxGuLU9iIJKsmB9eUOB4zy3AEUkGyPXhdLGC1WXZoHpMUCkzsPDgH2kSOVuJlYE-mmhXNeUjhzyXJmhXhLzRnxguMNWOdj6kbQB3vTRMIReSKZzFGBE24dYY?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I really, really hated Sync2...
Changeover To E85 Pump Fuel
So after contemplating when I really wanted to make the switch over to ethanol and also getting some inspiration from Brad over at AJPTurbo, I decided to finally make that switch. I still have a few things I'm working on to get even more fuel to the engine, but I think it's time to get started down that path. Many thanks to @p_coatsofboise (http://'https://www.instagram.com/p_coatsofboise/''), the current 1/4-mile world record holder of this gen Explorer, for continuing to motivate me to push this platform further.
So after getting a starter tune for e85 from Brad, I went to one of our local Shell stations that has some Propel e85 to fuel up a gas can worth (note the sticker that says "MINIMUM 70% ETHANOL"...it will be important shortly):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLmqjXAlJVJ8QM_noc0ihMGFyQmNeMUM8XZlX-OCXDy6kEeloe0Ji4mzlvCBD5mJpoMR1h2ro2nHUUgDtQz3HbYVkPpl4Ti9-l8VpARG90cOA8Vi-i9JcvtM5gkT_YOhDtcokGls-ckV3uj3ZcClmKmvlzdI44w5xuHEPCCmczy2jU253DPBCbG_DzK7rLBwu?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After getting back to the house, draining the remaining 100 octane I had left in the tank (it will be put to good use in the motorcycle), I filled up with the 5 gallons of e85, loaded the tune and started her up.
All is well as I saw the ethanol content gauge slowly climb from 7% that was in the 100 octane. After about 30 minutes of idling and driving slowly around the neighborhood to get that fuel through the system, the highest I saw my meter was this:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4wnisJd4DNxY-PmD-68EE_7-cs0eN2SV1fz6Gp5krAJxRisp4Upse0lWOJ5BuFSLDtYocHXaDWxxOLnHVW99ukWxND0ay9Qm0-Y5P1RvkpRFvb8fqth_Rx-AuwJmoD6PGR6zgJWIm-NFI27oKff4WcD0pX4AtTdRaLJPz0V2f8tKsquSsRm6egmh3sIcnX3g?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I thought to myself, this meter has to be wrong! I know there is a range that pump e85 is truly at, but at least I was expecting a little over the minimum 70% as it was stated. Well, I decided to test the fuel to verify independent of the gauge:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6EIsOnNVlcKghh9h34NAegSbr3Q9U2z3140NRQYmVU_qxdjsUl84g458J-Q-DCp7zXriITa4yntOzfgDlSI_QgFl2Xvq9qtogfMLS_FfXz4AruNvKDf3xGa5mr7U1p3RInl-zpsBJGIt87aRMCWjC5SD1gHXmtVd_gpcvM64duD8HQ8yCbJpWWwaPpAhdA-V?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
...and to my dismay, after doing the calculations like 20 times to verify the results, the ethanol content came to measured 66%, not too far off the gauge, so I knew that thing was correct.
That means the station has some poor quality e85. Not sure how to take this as it doesn't even meet the State-mandated minimum. And not sure where to go from here. I can drive around town to find a better station, which is what I will likely do. Or I can go full-on Simple Jack and just get a hold of some Ignite (http://'https://igniteracingfuel.com/products') fuel as it's accessible where I am and would deliver more consistency...but not sure how I really feel about doing this just yet. I think I will do some searching for some better quality pump e85 around town first.
I went ahead and did some hard pulls just to see how it feels (the starting tune is dialed back so we can ease into the power), and it feels quite a bit different. I'm interested to see where this road takes me...
...and so the adventure continues...
TEST YOUR FUEL PEOPLE!!!
Good resource if you want to do this at home or if you don't have one of those pocket testers:
http://iqlearningsystems.com/ethanol/downloads/E85test.pdf (http://iqlearningsystems.com/ethanol/downloads/E85test.pdf)
I personally like knowing the science behind the calculations, so I prefer this over one of those $15 Amazon test kits...but those work too, I'm sure...
UPDATE: 23OCT2020
Went to fill at a different station and got way better quality ethanol. Looks like I may have found the station to fill at. I took a sample as well and will test it. I think it's even better than the gauge states as it is being mixed with the poor quality stuff I already had in the tank:
EDIT: Tested it and it came back at 83%...really good stuff! Too bad I had about 5 gallons of crappy stuff in there bringing it down to 75%
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mKTqKB6m32mpXV_jh-hL62Ou-yKM_eekuI1PkiXGXGj8YIjMntdy9SxeYsXAL4rMD0i2sFykZnpnT1f1pdtaqCsJxGylbCE8jclu1nUv4zoPDqd7mLVRH01Eqbh7frPrweRLNZLNAHyv6NvEsR4KhV_Q30eeSE1Zy9xaaHNMs59ubmF3AUr4dtpHZcYIsvC0A?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIrX7q19tjYzYruxxYm3K6WANTlqeohjveVe6aIZ_coxf0Ga11RoRwpTMHLS-RrqAiXk1f9PFgcOhGb-rdGMtQOEOa0LfC0g1ju_LAjRkJElKuUw3FxVqsmiotiQR5YsI8BKdKM94_DFfgSlVqogeT31WDf6LAbAMYoUdso87GGKscZYyCF46VEs0_ZgTjiE6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Oh Sh!t Moment - Incident 01
Ummm, so yeah....this happened today:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mdTgPghMHvOMDcNXnLrQML5NRJMm6Jfmdp1ZnbNT5bNSDWKZbkj-YGdqYPfOtkXoua7DGjiLsldEt8wgaqoE1Nkej2DHQUsaWbUbtmKqjxIzaln4gHAYSDEq8nkk0lKMOpI1F_hJVyq9_sPw_Kq6LEIVQlCbe01XTS8IF0oDFodKM9v_Oki_JsW8lJaUNyM61?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Was out around doing some "spirited" driving as I was trying to get some miles on the e85 in order to stabilize the OAR before I get heavy into some datalogging. I floored it and heard a loud 'POP'. and lost all power. Scared the crap outta me as I thought I really broke something, but when I slowly eased into the throttle I saw I wasn't building any boost at all. Figured I blew a hose or cracked a pipe or something. Luckily I was about 2 miles from the house. Limped it home to find that hose had popped off. It was on there tight, too, so I must've hit a boost spike (currently mildly set to 15psi for initial tuning).
Anyway, easy fix and I'm back on the road...I'm seeing Wiggins Clamps in my future...
Quote from: Ecoboost_xsport on October 22, 2020, 11:35:40 PM
Oh Sh!t Moment - Incident 01
Ummm, so yeah....this happened today:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfW0yqUnpOXwODIKxOHbxGIhExhrvYKgKBPIOwB0CmXZZH-I2jm29WyI7fzS-ScXgsMk0lzu6q4vKc6dRBCR-ILwOF-4zcQ2z-_CDQgiw77-oTxOSc3UE6C51TIGy1ksem5-hmoiqfvpKsAmMZDiUT23T0sBWB3at_Gx9YMH39ToGJ5XTzFg8EyI9DDUz3j_3?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Was out around doing some "spirited" driving as I was trying to get some miles on the e85 in order to stabilize the OAR before I get heavy into some datalogging. I floored it and heard a loud 'POP'. and lost all power. Scared the crap outta me as I thought I really broke something, but when I slowly eased into the throttle I saw I wasn't building any boost at all. Figured I blew a hose or cracked a pipe or something. Luckily I was about 2 miles from the house. Limped it home to find that hose had popped off. It was on there tight, too, so I must've hit a boost spike (currently mildly set to 15psi for initial tuning).
Anyway, easy fix and I'm back on the road...I'm seeing Wiggins Clamps in my future...
I have to say.. out of all the issues this one is probably the safest! LOL.. The clamps in the picture have worked well for me, maybe tighten them a bit more? dunno
Quote from: StealBlueSHO on October 23, 2020, 09:46:25 AM
Quote from: Ecoboost_xsport on October 22, 2020, 11:35:40 PM
Oh Sh!t Moment - Incident 01
Ummm, so yeah....this happened today:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfW0yqUnpOXwODIKxOHbxGIhExhrvYKgKBPIOwB0CmXZZH-I2jm29WyI7fzS-ScXgsMk0lzu6q4vKc6dRBCR-ILwOF-4zcQ2z-_CDQgiw77-oTxOSc3UE6C51TIGy1ksem5-hmoiqfvpKsAmMZDiUT23T0sBWB3at_Gx9YMH39ToGJ5XTzFg8EyI9DDUz3j_3?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Was out around doing some "spirited" driving as I was trying to get some miles on the e85 in order to stabilize the OAR before I get heavy into some datalogging. I floored it and heard a loud 'POP'. and lost all power. Scared the crap outta me as I thought I really broke something, but when I slowly eased into the throttle I saw I wasn't building any boost at all. Figured I blew a hose or cracked a pipe or something. Luckily I was about 2 miles from the house. Limped it home to find that hose had popped off. It was on there tight, too, so I must've hit a boost spike (currently mildly set to 15psi for initial tuning).
Anyway, easy fix and I'm back on the road...I'm seeing Wiggins Clamps in my future...
I have to say.. out of all the issues this one is probably the safest! LOL.. The clamps in the picture have worked well for me, maybe tighten them a bit more? dunno
Yeah definitely glad it wasn't more serious or in a more crappy location. I was pretty sure it was on there tight, but idk...maybe I didn't crank on it. It's tight now for sure though, lol.
I don't see a lip on the flange, likely the unit has 'enough' lateral movement to allow it to slide off. common issue really. look into getting a stiff small crease outward on each side .. or have someone GOOD, tac on a 2 or 3 inch bead on each side and file it down a bit.. give it some 'bite' to press into the connection hose/silicon.
Yeah, I guess it was bound to happen. I seen folks weld a bead on the TB and weld on v-band flanges, etc. My current setup is all temporary anyway until I get my IC and plumbing redone. I'll be welding on a Wiggins-style clamp flange. That'll solve that issue 100%.
Since that pipe is pretty short to the IC, it needs a bit play so when the engine moves. Wiggins-style clamps for the win!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjNwzrxW9vfi96NuaJWDDDPA5lmQRDovR_RXcGPu4EPEq-FvnTsRXZtf1ggJnjQ9ibXJ__A04bWwCEUlbOqA4unuNBJLz4OVD_fGKyg1MSZXzmx2KdqEUXJNtC1alunJlNBfsIodDhHjS6hGUNfJskawyUSuSt_PvOtLAirL3YLt94ZFzpS7Uy9YIK18vQOKQ?width=474&height=185&cropmode=none)
(https://64.media.tumblr.com/3c5a16a4ab832f922ae580adcaf99a43/tumblr_n255j8hQpM1qk65n6o5_1280.jpg)
Wonder if we can get any of these throttle body adapters to work with the BBK 70mm TB:
https://plazmaman.com/product-category/plazmaclamps/ (https://plazmaman.com/product-category/plazmaclamps/)
Would make it easy to use a Wiggins-style clamp without have to weld onto the TB...
HVAC Directional Door Actuator ReplacementSo this was one of those things to fail that you just KNOW is going to be a pain in the ass. Guess what? It is!
The actuator was stuck on defrost and I could never get it out of that position. Did some research and found that they fail often. Ford uses these in various places as well as in many of their platforms. It's the newest version of the actuator and you can see in this video why it may not be the best improvement. Yes, it's smaller...but made cheaper:
https://youtu.be/sQ2afrTj1xY
There are a number of actuators in the HVAC system in this vehicle. One is located on the passenger side and it controls the blend of hot/cold temperature. So if you're having that issue, it's likely you'll want to check out these videos for some help:
https://youtu.be/yYacz5dZgyc
https://youtu.be/Dl1O34pVE3Y
https://youtu.be/UqL1C4Lw8aM
The one that failed in my case was one of the worst ones to go as far as labor. If you are having issues with the HVAC sticking between DEFROST, DASH or FLOOR setting, this is the one you need to replace. This is something that, if taken to Ford will cost you $$$$. Apparently, Ford needs to remove the ENTIRE dash to get to it...so yeah, lotta dough.
Anyway, did some research and found this:
https://youtu.be/LIDLq4jLZXE
I won't re-hash what I found in this video except give you a parts list and some tips I found to make it easier, but I will say this video saved me A TON of time and work. Thank you so much to the creator!
This is one of those jobs where having the right tools will make or break your sanity. As with all things mechanical, there is more than one way to skin the cat, but man, if you have the tools below, you will thank me later.
Anyway, some of the parts and tools needed for this job:
- Actuator: Ford PN AA5Z-19E616-A (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031AOL4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1')
- DeWalt Right Angle Attachment, Flex Shaft, 12-Inch (DWARAFS (http://'https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013UBXU3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1'))
- Magnetic Nut Driver Socket Set
- 1/4" Cordless Impact Wrench
- Long-reach upholstery removal tool
As for removing that red tab on the connector, it DOES NOT need to come all the way out as mentioned in the video, just pull it back a bit and it'll click out into place. Then remove it as you would any connector by depressing the lock tab:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPJwHzf0IqxJ9O2-VTBFcbm-1KaquGS0-lRkwtQ1gGubkt0WZGAMMB10oOVANxzSuA9UL52LVGJqxuMN1g0898jUy0v9QVwfpL0Rl2Nh9Nf-MtoDEmP9TnqGSjAhmEWay38RmrSpvlvn4lgpbpTB0pEfJ3rk79qyMKDGh_conFrUpDefWHUOEF0zSacUKQciZ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
In the video, he removes the top 2 screws with that 90deg flex shaft and the bottom screw with a 3" extension on a ratchet. I found that you can reach that bottom screw with the flex shaft very easy:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5kJxRLmDN3R-yFERaEmpwQoKAjj_Uqze6fHnDE3cKp6_oWJyhH3jfFu4dUj9rYPPQQ-0OP5YQ5s_giIHXnrKWn9q-AX2aJgtZ-JJnlrDeHCpNP1PWa9FeP8KIkgQTribcZNE6NDtXPuXLmG2x5hE7LaLSvhZUW8wfvkncVQcdYlGRRwhHHpRa3oJuLZCAzA5?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
You want to use those nut driver sockets because they are slightly shorter than a socket adapter and socket. There isn't much room and you need all the space you can. It's great to have the magnetic ones as the screws just stick to it and you don't need tape or gum like the video posted suggested:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mbUeh11uzj5kYZ-WABD9pOW4cdTgzCx21jeamfY7SzvlDOYy3cY9yi7GiRl2VuYaNtcXzNhTKsNEbqsTQZn23vm5txP-OJT68ANA7vn3Km7oI0S5R0lwewi_Mx1-PUMcsm8ULVJSHU6vFC-DzuuW_fhc29QAGLqiYGPiG095PqSoP9sXR1jbSBtYbXwCkdBcb?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4my1qiMG0sFYeyjZvWaodeUuTBuqeKn0JWPBmKN6rnjr6tiyADU_NQ6ZqXP24apsRCeo_raFNzkEu_Hw86B1hi-4ZWzzjoQhd0i9Bn8vY7G8qyMgk8LfcWDLhnRM4yzWORX1XBGqLNj1KhehYoK-1yd4aQ4ElC21dZ2L6Nyn_TP6koEXtrA8kIYsn8p5cgRhrE?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This pic is difficult to see what I'm talking about, but if you have everything removed as required, from underneath, look up toward the actuator and it's a straight shot with the flex 90. In this pic it's about center in the photo:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVnkzXgJb9xXDxua72vZ7_mJIMiJjM9fm2JHwDInT1rvD9GxnmGL6CEQwdx5i_Bu7AVdKNAcsFPrpEtnA4jNoJM9Ixd1gMBWpcUmqZATKctc2v-z0CNbE6jFFmRYMTO0nIhNYyGMVQOZ3cURKelYWuAm8szqSJG6r65KGdJ5KFbcSF-rTua3VLpqRkr2eEX0d?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now, with everything removed, it'll still be kind of stuck in there. There is hardly NO room to get that thing out as there is a large wire harness right up against it. That's where the long-reach upholstery removal tool came in handy:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkgmrhM9R4iGs5qAdYc2txcgrZmLBOyyEqHfaSY_j0f6MHYKmjiaOoFQVPHZH8fgh-tR_SVi17c5DSYNN-BPZUYGyoqpossR7EgDplmfdQXxPFzOLpBKQcZ71JJYPw-GCsA8n59HryluPuewKRSGAk6MVkPHuvy9khtng9ZyJ6n6hkuqaxdKII1FQtWFjCELA?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I wedged it between and basically twisted the tool 90 degrees and it popped right out and fell straight to the floorboard:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOt_3jVikM9u1EcdWZfLQ9TGIEUCeOZ2OGZfA25DxJvba5rkfwnwtB4NqSO6Pt0QqIKax1axCT15BdFOk4AD41RDKrHgUGdjG3u6W3iGT9Ib5jBTNz_f4ymREQl4wAw8stZ89Dq-43Zi0Go4WtpetQ6fc5frhwZBujDHSH3E9gb_Lv40FzVuwfzcus9vJHDyf?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
In this pic, you see the end of the tool and the white slot the actuator inserts into. The actuator had already popped off in this photo, but you can get an idea of where to insert it:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAK1gVW_32EfnrmZ1wnvC5nVxucOUkiCiEZHW_7Xnr0SgDOcWkCPcVMCcmvI1vxRMNl_f_qcBqrKQZ4sx315CPJX85g2odUmPD5iJqFVKgWXTtKA5_bCnb0QC23d3_-m9bYHVvcHzx0O_7Ktw0Yugy3qYNcN1r8av7Cx1Md3xa59rFeJKUMJlt7bucm1F7ggh?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the bad actuator and the arrows are not matching up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJjIuzFJeuWt62K6IUOhWxr2ZFGnf9GntNIsHXn_vIsqKyW7iooe0OOGtGEg8jdyKGABcShwbNkxRkWBbVrmlH7A8cNHlp-PU_kjDrarCv96V-_g3pOuiXo5EKded6BYhRuCljMl7mKT6XySQq8Zx3qJfjsODudgtdhtXAIDFtnXmyoaVd5i5Ppu1k3YRHNK6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's the new one with the arrows lined up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJQYYrnkt7sYpHj9hqWRzqB7wBNCbmysaDD3NR-ZHnEKaRRAI9_dwKj3qIlW40UFckZ3xyinESuj7wh_kEhs_zb1qLsfL4YsGYbGpMhoQnbN26zVt37xvibpXqn_abEUMm-9B6smWMzwLA3d5XhcQSH5ErbgQqrdDWlmnlaF1tFllgI-5XE2vkvu938vR6c-I?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The video creator had a great idea taking the old one apart and using the plastic gear to get the slot to line up before inserting the new actuator. Just break the tabs off the outer shell it will come right out:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEWE6k6xR4f0u_LBNJOdoOpkqR-0pXvYlfspurGLXbmKs_ZU6LI-oEodRQCwsUMU_mmMhCQ6QVRfge9-anjzrcfeTN6BQ74WdFLDeS4CfizE4p1DgYGFuthgehvLLn7xMeHDkbsXmaa3w9RXexJaZr0XoyWZz2xgb0oNc1fbo2E6mKhrWjY0yVTapIrrhFTwX?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I found an easier solution than marking and finding where it needs to be clocked. Just insert that gear back into the slot and turn it all the way clockwise (if you were to be looking at the gear from the exposed end and not the end inserted into the slot)gently until it stops. It can't go further than the position it needs to be at. I did that, inserted the actuator and the bolt holes lined up perfectly.
It will require finger acrobatics to get that thing up in there, so don't think this will be super easy. You will likely scream at the wiring harness that's in the way a few times. Stick with it, you'll get it.
As for putting the screws back in, this is where the magnetic sockets really shone. For tightening though, I didn't use an impact wrench, I used a 1/4" hex socket handle and tightened it by hand:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZR1KFdYk327jIHDr0Xjg-JhoSekX5ZKd0aHgULrwbf7daeIsQBqbqNXPV9Y_KS2glb0tujt0nrkpagXYUfG_Hm3S0szFC5xGCEXlFAFJPr9_erwyJ0v8gznCiE6YENnl0RK0sauJdsxJyedgDODrZQ1XF8zIYAqU67YBN80uW05_y5s_IWXeTloky-M5iNyg?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mV-a-pop8Pvbih_hC2PfWIvBLZlpJv0KD8rFI_Bj6_t0aA0atvjfg75GA4-BGBOvo8pCtTaa1-ZYza93mduzaZiXdTjFEpYCflfFH6r6NTGpWLwAbSQKaB8z4Xp3TWvb8k63w5d9BZ293zc7H3qyacgxQIsM9efJm9yIto_xi0bu9aUfcfYzuyfhinVP4WSsW?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Finally, getting that connector back into the socket. That was, for some reason, the most difficult part of this job (it was ALL difficult, btw). You can only fit one hand up there, so it all has to be done single handed. AND you can't see what you're doing. It's all done blind, LOL.
Anyway, got it connected, put everything back together and tested it. Worked perfectly!
Whew! The job took about 1.5hours start to finish, but it was a stressful 1.5 hours, LOL. Had I not watched that video, nor had the right tools, it could easily have been a 6 hour job trying to figure this out.
Some extra photos for you.
The opened actuator if you're interested:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCE6e1QrDRVGNZKMZ5jyZDWFuUv7B6_fIEaT-61rAwZ3q095pYHz-hodb_1iZGHk_nw6CXZq5IPf7MiCP3JOxDvJo_kHoxrjykiv33WB-bi9RqPKXq-oDnXfAy5HZ42VbHalqi2WNdREB-bEgbDEZeZyeRlbo1Ep3zAn5r2FBPIJrGN0EdCiWvJ4RXd3Bydg_?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The new actuator, I can't believe this $25 part costs so much to get changed. I think it's upward of $1000 because Ford will remove the dash:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjg0RaONAcROzz61CN7ukjhFQs-u0LTru5XH5C5F-Fde3tHRO9rcy_lMC51mdm1mE_h5OvmwHM9hVyFEIcwFqZa2BHoCscG2s_kUmXC_--SaoEARZvbKS-5cUahB3KoVYCGe31JtckyMAFKL4ffJeIQLFsu2bYcM29M3qzHc0z2_CD727ZrUayAI-twxTLAow?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Built Long Block
So this has been a long time in the making and I finally received it the other day. Although I have brought it up in passing and sometimes eluded to it, this project I've generally held close to the chest...for a number of reasons. Some of you may already know as I've shared this on other platforms so it isn't the biggest surprise, but it's for sure the biggest step for this journey I on right now.
Although I'm totally capable of building an engine myself, I decided to go with an outside builder for a number of reasons. The main one is time...it's just a premium for me and a project like this would've taken me quite a while. Likely even longer than the 6 months it took to get it to this point.
I started talking with Ryan over at RMB Motorworks (http://'https://www.rmbmotorworks.com/') about a year ago. Trust me, I've read all the stuff on the internet about some people's experiences, both good and bad. Most of what I got was pretty positive and I always take negative press with a grain of salt. Got to know him pretty well before I decided to pull the trigger on this and I'm glad I went with his him on this. Anyway, here's some photo's of the build process as it progressed:
Heads off a 2016 SHO that had virtually no miles on it. As you can see, they were in great shape before they were even touched with any head work:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m62fiNZBYUd484Zdbz79ftYoin0rsDHcOH2Fgbsd-2Nr8NLV3BEiTVf2D92sSXdb55BAodIYEoZWKVuAFI3nqukF5GNedkCB0gHnJmo-FP8hHaIy6l9vFFoiCUPF_QxFPoTikJGdRVjustSL473DCQKwnHAnvgp5y_OiffIZFQb7YVIC5BIYo9HqAx8T-o_Sz?width=800&height=600&cropmode=none)
They were sent off to Headgames Motorworks (http://'https://headgamesmotorworks.com/') to get some love. Namely their Pocket Port-R. What is that you ask? Well, here's a quick blurb on it:
[media=youtube]jI_hwmJqTYg[/media]
Should be able to get a bit more timing out of this thing now:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8asNVzl4yzi28By66pQ0mZb4N5e7-e2FLqaGIKzbozyeyXBfdw0TILRnQdtWqI5Jw_19vz8IyVMLI2BRdb5jvIYba2tXke72ZBYFC73Jjdr38IK7Q1euUQV7GWp1oj0iOGQTPzhaxuR6SPeKutxPi72YvWLy2Q0Mzzknv-I_ujP_btCADpQC3RV2X1atbLsv?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhpdQOWm9vV-a8l93uqGA_4RgSxaB2NR6t7QBb-2yZcvNJ27q5A4XNtVMka-rvx9RutRx9MQjY5jzhOIkI0qsWkEf9HWvTDzuLiJ6WL2S8ongYzxOhOV2kbB0JrR0cX6zGn28fKGgryNAucqmJbMju8OlY67-eJ4bvjmZ2SvyezvanTTaM7AGBarJWPQRT1XQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzERgnzZu07kZBox5ZBDso8R5bKDOZ5pC3fa8kCqb9NuyVqcY-2Nr1RzRP0M4TQ9ZtTXIw6HvlrnvMO0hGgs5xSdPSrd1XMb6wq25EYfrq3SSMSghKLoS-GjdYI83aVKkRVdsOaHgz099sOocoJglHaZFdA3yu3u1P25pop5dBcPabIC90yIIcGAfpxEuJv-a?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Stock cams. Didn't have anything done to them. A custom grind was outta my budget, lol:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmwa3NMegPYlZaf7fW9q7i_thqWaZT4PPJIFZYdlez1YWW9hLr2aKolzyYU3jyPdFJhdtt8jf73R2BStvHwcbKAXfYt_Q7OZnIJQkdAOm5Yp8eP2wxJfUqSK19X5xpiM2qSxCKWb1JUBrVATwuACFuTy45uT9vxMt8GkkU8qI6rehMjkYFVQElCTpMgB17atN?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Brand new block, before it got sent out for the closed deck process:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mWs8LG9YVz_q3ISfPlc5X7ABNwcOUomvtc7-nokeVI0uZvrNglXFvdaZ6rqGDsVgQh8LTOrY8U8hp2hJbOgM-Ava7p2Hnox5RS91QniWfRvh8Yh1p2cP_AW8_V_b1YTy-ynRMEl4lpeV_xpqNr83lhLkgysXafZeSNcblQ4hJCSo04hoUfkNhp_JXKJe_yByN?width=831&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Back from CSS (http://'https://cylindersupportsystem.com/') with the deck closed off:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfz_mRQmNLlQ9cyUw78Y_Oi-V5z_dlnOEEmg2DmtaA0HvPuWpz7o1hhUCcmqIHq7zGIU03McaZSQxpnBGz_9-qLAhnnV717MKlg4VS14DmKLRSYLQ-r--ZeVe0lcJGkNg0PLcUnuWYZ2DAIyNR8-Yl9FGJPBkDAvZ05f36j_yye2EWsIJUQJFV1l0roFqodJn?width=360&height=480&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mn45fjx4mcOKITsXzwC7lTlqnKWG6a4Dd53NNWJKi8j9N78oTjD-ib6QJZVDEspATqsqAMLimFK8S6BOGS3bwKaatJ4ph_g1OwQnf4thCxQ2idkzL5OF7rFtzqaj85YeYY1mGV3WEn5ohvrgmIb_z6T3_Wk98K-gn4FnRV6FeBaN_RZ-OC517R3enQdwJ2SCk?width=360&height=480&cropmode=none)
Just some nice hone work:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfDpVGMxtUvLFGkOPPQqEMQDiaedgqFXA1IlO2BvObAHnzVLZFc12cA3GaBCgvoombq-i5-MrNK05XjLgiRy7JW_OyodGRyQnJGqPRwpcBrh-HMvFMdcHyOsbKKqEBGJkz9RWy4zH8U3oUPTcrUTx5Wq_qpmR20onaaBdEFxPQ-9cJkBnrML32YaOqnDD2h8v?width=600&height=800&cropmode=none)
JE pistons before getting some Calico Coating love:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mcW-YrZYsOzLooTh7hGDnxEP7SLyZWZp6MOFgXDhCSvmw9JoH-ScVsRmU5azgYQLpQ0tmYgDNmqgCqiGgTkIjTT_bYzK18yX0YhABlZkQPoC8fmmf8s8pfrKEcppHcx001G8ntwMhDe0erjiDq3u7qHmy1XLG-gg-yLRQ-0a7mugfjP0gulIP3Cd9TCafyhJ4?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Skirt coating:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVnh_pCwHE2e-K0vLEjCNhlYInOvK5KdOiXAHH9iVT0afx3fbNEkuws_-UmvHaGescpCcXO1_Ap2BgzDu293gmo2E_Pf-ryT2uaNkk4jNL8aT_WlfJfxcDulkq1Mkn5N1ThlGYNwuK5YIcdlW94nj2fOBF0MksBk9o9I-H1TYPSFDqij5A5893GAefvtY2xIW?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
Thermal top coating:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mW7hWXeU63hDORGI8fpJD1Gr82IAeiCJdHUN3602VjOxghG7PfCX6mqlAGUP3J6dqja0OP1cbM3sZZmanyBx_DzDMVc-12fYJS0Oaldg8SNSMnErAcmgX7apnEQtVm-C2lNTr98XJuf_DGjTRqAk4eACxwAUDkCavD_bptgwJZnrh7bTt1Dh4l3j0BMUuxO-M?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mB-GxriOcZm3DgTum1i71n3aqXTIbWW846WbYHWNJKWXlsKKc7BtNRDs3_7g-rZbWmJMpmeMvEgkMkLHan40wjp6YJzLMWyEsHSS5v20TcpXMDLOHUo9ovu6n2psEh7Fest3Yb3s2FwtMkwy6kswYyaKfXj4YB1oDftHsHk9O8WIogEboH4uX0Arc1uBmF5OK?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
These conrods are sexy AF! A set of Boostline (http://'https://blog.wiseco.com/wisecos-new-2000hp-capable-boostline-connecting-rods') conrods to push those pistons around:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDQWWikgxlxo-hiH7FLuIQjBFk5tzhsFeHg6EsPeFtAB8Fpo5w66hbCvNMKFdtnsAM8mghnfWwSJ4CHNhvWng8w1NoJop-jYJV1rFvr4ZWRhj9iHD0Ai1TnReJ5Pg8zgily_39JC_vDPPmYgAJ3iZ2Hz7WV8MiwlV39K5eLok6WX6goM_V6Mp8dKyh0OGUqsy?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBUI7MISQmNKS8EgitljPWSV2OZ2TInjuYVZEBTRpA_hk26LNfeutan_npQlnD2YEsOh36vzNjQtXlGjwmUL8-ZosZy0oNmkfT6cMD06gFyrQlgeh6IjWsnflogs4JhlrbMmMn9qYTZMnfxtXA-FJLyZ6vDH961UHUHboj7FVgekKbTC3xAyAjPSkLSWiSD7I?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mz37d9TMShuq_tO6p5njiG2EoxPDfarMkVl2ceiIDT1wK3SDGjkPgec22n9mfC17OF9zK32ENsNhf2JvEGzl41giSV1KCF2fwWXaEENYOT2B2zXHNqN5iDYE2toUTd5C1UR-KOcFbfbqvujr99pXS9TzmWP8HW8Y4_Lsc8Q2B2QnK_QengkhbZA9Wk2lVoUD1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Some ring gap measuring:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtpXhomhMvLDm1Ettu-PX7j15RQrTjzPbcIJ3LePIPvjjaRRKKhepC4diu6bZTmPkB6CHco7KGMSP8rppk-PP36eAIUkfGMDcYnKiqC-ODrLx0fjkJ7JRWrm_4LktoJ9jUzh66_d8-6P2GgOhvdN_AJ1WmpqMpi6TmKUaAO8XrKdL-B2XIY2JNgBIdEUkJbS0?width=600&height=800&cropmode=none)
The centerpiece of all this...a Ford F-150 Raptor crankshaft:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRh0DpbqAKDB6INjajj8xSymPT_N_l_yp6GwOcI1of9vCKDomM53OaOHL4ND0UUKFOMs1e-79KdWPTyxkCI7KkGz-p5V3EKtIfm5kNOPgu84WM5YuynuEtgoD-Bso-VcR7zcODtJp0t7h_FG5pR8G9mEVDl7GiSBQxIdPL32ntOwXYyELGY7ttz1Rhptvw_-m?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Main bearings:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQ3l16DCVqLGF6xzGdRadnkVgYUIL15wJBXKiVns_O8vnqs3BGx0HnPSz3wvo8wHRdVBS_3EAvqc-MBQkLVGIaJgcAjbWubecXnmZgVKQqHHbK1zDZLlW078zcL9Tv4I5oTQPRF71YhRhNuq_A-Amx2O3GqlLubN_fzKHa3wVXCmJ53daYUuJ00CY-tneyed2?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And some more lovely cross-hatch machining:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7ptI_qegLwTahQ1lyGCrinIjYgQo1cfbsXEJVKjrLD6oknHvpfi7nUFJl_A4G9PsjxXfmb0U_z9eHQ6YaZH-tslK2HFDYj3u8bp1dO4hoJ_P3b0Nc5EIQ7rrAaYuRz2x3p_-WOQ84OECRkwQPChRedfwwcIIN5MaW229IkjgOCx2m8g90aE5uF1qyAy7sy1l?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The King (http://'https://www.kingbearings.com/') main bearings installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miXOaJBfeda8vHFb0F7rg-7-hUU7vd-RGJoMZKpNHJgoFILryE6zVH2XZKs8RtVdqekC2TxZ4e00985i_s15ONMB1_eoK6a75XM8Kp0T4KhtENMMvur_3sFAu6GwKXS1deMjGm4yfAsOZr-H03AS03o_65ymgl4suRZumtlRfbN10Oh4SmKyfEaHoj4T3U9dR?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Checking end play:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRST1UGS7iONj-zPe3Csff16LQaSOnKO_wgcBA1ty0s8GoRXdQ_u9rd3gtfGWJFfXzFngJe62E9cGHjLhVnofFyItFfA_kJsfkSx_hxUhNswR2uIszwn35KrYQmCao0g_hTEE_iOZIDmvqnVTYgoUZbZQJBepIfqPQ921g6YLTOdfbLr5y6l7RoC-5RmTWBko?width=1024&height=641&cropmode=none)
And more clearance checking:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMiVgJxaEKHVuTI0wy-PjnzZpgu59Q-5uuHnMWPWjv9hI9VIVzaABWEGcedp16X8hKpian72FWCnPU4nH5ksGpvjFwMLEGxDQIu04zTXg5GjIG4p21pYcVKvMhv6gcgvAmUt2mVpc24HwXJd4wjFj9DNPj0ud8wAhfTpHTtSqwOw_mtqwqZqzCJjZY9ADcccZ?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Completed short block:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mWjKtBO_6GYsu275qVQlDZqsTN5Z7vaHanR4DfB5ka2Aw4d1pjDECvJNAX4kk9tF1Ntr4NweC6ey0zUegbH_qRl9IAm7AkvhBHT7kz-MMFe-FUcO4M_qxOX5uzjXA_EZ5YqcZhUWfum7n4L1UXFQqoIupdEUf8OWJSzYAwn6Evkhro1e283xMoTj0b_yeGBP4?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Oil Pan, pickup tube and oil pump housing installed. Can't forget the WPC (http://'http://www.wpctreatment.com/') treated Boundary (http://'https://www.boundarypumps.com/ford-v6-cyclone/ford-cycloneecoboost-v6') oil pump gear installed inside that housing:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMdtyyqvfCFEgI7iEZf6GQZcknwdyHhnf7LqCi4j9A6gcWcGbnCv8LHSRs7ZcLai5VO5ruz304nuoXLFl0sTn_L3QWlfjK2wmdNXWCyNwd04yiPFXwIo6Caw96oeDVr5cJe4_YnOQ5YfBoAEnjHubu8iKdVitSy50fY8v30wk2ekPKKBFtya-bzNXGke4Ss0x?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBsxsjWwIzEubq-oj5--p2feZ7yXFz34jF4hxywwhEXmPf7j8NP2aA6TOqAv6wCHQNzA3ZojMq5WpbNYwYatH_c7crw26x1WBpskZPlHjziUA-IP236nRqKpd7SjxiW-f91jCnJebmdY2pwOpQb5TnBT_7rAS4JD6dwr7ifkbIHL_FkneqVQ5xS5_HaiXoZVT?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
And some relentless engine assembly porn:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIa7fqiYteUTNxBiSt7HnZ03NM_O4oNZhhpzjwj1Jx_2p8I--isdBGe9t63HJfO52EU-zsiEh_xOfPW54_yEgQV3k1wtP_EHn9RqInlzgaY42P1w3xwQIco6Wci7om8k0AiU8nfyPbKiPK_yv_N9vTHR88tIXQj4PcZ5nIyLVs98tYgza17SPrsZTOD1fmkxK?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5hu30vNsMtxMYICGOE6MDA53tWhWdg3PbaOLxVfAHMj5Im73aSd3yCCp2BK-8fiDBnuq-MF_--06XFj2VKUc0BPZuQuQcOg21aZYpvDjUsv1btOBb9amDw3brFHoTPUUpqQMvdSQcpdpvkUTm5UD55geUSs73V8ZiqumxmKiyceTSWz8HieSE0gQEO1HBpOQ?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAz4COLsoL_pzLgL4yqB5IvcE4mijHGOsIIEuV331ZFPcZQHG_MvB6FBYbfAGwx0WbugVoCrltOuQwj75HWK8xuElO31ayWzbD_ALOza1Z1g4UHjMoWBD1FOFs77FEblRiYdPcy23E3X9ok5jI7Ur3UUa6O7tHQt0KLA7ZyCjhwO0GqzWQsWivkNZ-UKTgk3T?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzKueVn1k2TnfOZmLVKFfmP7i0-x5ozet2mc22SUQhzg6uMR9srawipG_n6TztnJCq22x9jcfbCKZ-XbyGG8PJyzMOZG0Ld0JmkAKW-wxS2biOF4j7p913FRIVgjsGl-qzAWtGQp9KKddwbbCp8f2ceUbOE_qDcXREL_HHIjpWPSd1Wnnd6ZgBiDhRF53b08i?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFUPlivBqsgPNKO12Rs-4xdNTMolJ_t4MPa6DHVzeaXFSeX5RDPtC9k3ynIJXjeatnK83nRtEH5iFm9tBjLoateq4UZgmdDCRACN8a2ab7AhMoCcWqUXRgwFlXJIZqMFjD78A48WFqt7U28BUq1VdbEiU3Qk4p1sjDF97yCJVQS-jURTk1ffGdGYtcKxoZ7XU?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mVCiasaFH_8YN7iQyNG2MA-YKoCD7WAbtRt7SPFjLSZtaoUYbEpKOfTRSHdq08hnx7Q71oe4gUarC5YF6M_XyNMCnO_sZhyPe3wMNk-Sk29yXfgGpu_AIEbKQpPdJYdAA3vubV4zqDMTMLTgA_cWo_slcPCATkotENoPDFPANg4pWll09ywVNreSfq21-gFQj?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSbwjg-F-wfF2MUF22jpHeeIZO7U5a7kgDWKSLmhgDBG86_hHbMV-5p3pJCQaEP718V02wRZ0pyYDjWJo9YA53fxahEsDAG1Au2mcjjhqZ7eg75vO6FAR22cBWkQ9oN3YQUFpGyzSU7oTjZvbmDIKlR9UxC7cEbVrlJZacKO8HC_IOfYh_Ru5ztj8VckegEIt?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mo5ZOwRkOf1ieEUDxrEOrimc0ybQaNPfA2cSEZ5COClYTCB83uYuf-XBMR0ePeGSYOMaPRYHDGxKAVziOez-wICGtzMpByWcq3CtCD25KMC68bjHJ-JyW2EWf9ZPaNxnRGySd1nwnLigBnuBsCdGwTFJn96xjbjvkqrqriwvIpR-hu-16DztrE79bC_ux33sT?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXnkn0OhavoncoQGl9u9Cv-mOAF9UW7c6jpjiHItjwMA61LS5kMZOlMODPFB2Zxl6Bc80Mbq0FFcJ1djcBHn_I1Tt7MEoZ1rOQ3cj-M0ombCDixj3PGtSbYi7g1eNX4W3rOmLHknqUsArU1fp7p0Of0qlFuC84b1G7RIdh0cTWciCit8IkgWLUwS03rAwio4Y?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mB7f0_41AXtBZncjcXiGje3e82Uy5yq10GvfVAJxuCIcgEp8mXRrsJS8bbbVsVkclkZf1dYLeK7KO1OyQhK7RE0JogQcoFRkwRjKQ18iSugRCgdCf5PFDaP95gZlTo0lxE_4YBuCHuVv4KqnUTmZxlrYAsj91B2RpYTq7aUzVS64muIf0sqZXTnqzu8wKlhEY?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And finally, arrival day!:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0xd7AEM9TUAAAcz_9kKB9jrdrTkRoNLjg1yDrZ_jk6S-6A33x5pwiVJUmUpgpFVkIu5lpfGjK56OSdKWHQVaGMIOA3if3je5ebkkN-AcqLpEQ3GOAkBeQlhaKLV362bBU4RQ041EPqHAW6S2gzOV7TLpoGBgsXK_W3IE_cDJrii3ctD_ZJ0DwEDZ5yGsriXH?width=1024&height=1023&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8xoPbB-VrbGptQGUEwp5CecZfW-h4TJ5rl4DZAHLt_tPWo7yV57suCjlIMA8mzip3aplh_DAQc2AMpbceWhYwujIkGbacivTfohaQlho8isk8QsVzkgnkjngaygFL6DNAKN_FiL4uYwj7gjIflXzC_dcjNL1CLsU5f14_ODlsAvFRtNCjJKyMyx1Xm7BNRSf?width=1024&height=770&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRMG6ZuSUvGvwHz2aRjdPKGBF5siNNHm_LUozT0osQmQWioRe4mu2xMppjRcHeJjbOu4oFeVgXcmtUCZEGiJcSfjbPat43YLnGvnS3b4ERt20Hu3JDDkRa1Vh5-DHmnA-7mBYJfZbwVqJr5exm7P_dls4FliefFurGqY6J4a_Se1Yqy_uznV3_vahg4-tl00V?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So, next step will be an engine stand sometime this week. Then it will sit for a bit until I tackle the intercooler dilemma on the current engine. I want to work all the bugs out on the engine I have sitting in the car now, so I'll be mostly dialed in when the new motor goes in!
Stay tuned...
Build Sheet (not all inclusive):
New OEM Short Block
- CSS Closed Deck
- Boostline Connecting Rods
- ARP2000 Connecting Rod Bolts
- JE FS3 10:1 CR Pistons (CT3 sideskirt coating, Calico ceramic top coating)
- King XP Main Bearings
- King XPValves Connecting Rod Bearings
- OEM Ford Raptor Gen2 Crankshaft
New OEM Cylinder Heads
- Headgames Motorsports Pocket Port-R
- New OEM Valves (back-cut)
- ARP2000 Head Studs
- MLS Head Gaskets w/Integrated Fire Ring
And all the latest Ford iterations of accessory parts (chains, sprockets, guides, etc).
19 December, 2020:
Small update. Things have been slow going, but I finally got the engine onto an engine stand...you might find it interesting, LOL.
Well here's the fancy engine stand I ended up getting. Sunex 8300GB, 1/2 ton stand with oil drip pan. I wanted one with an actual gear-reduced crank handle because, well...I'm lazy, LOL:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGHl4KHjODfyFv58Ec0zNm3-EynoBGmtPIh8TIAldQMxmIurPd3_S-TLqix6zWhm4059NWpWQtvW8pox_31Qq48zV8L5_WRdmh45tGi-KmOI4Arar30IOyofis8gwmyWS9yqsBeZXvDVhyl-pl7g4dGr9nQ2ZITOPrV2xnUFIxxqGF6veAhlOHdzxEIsOYdOh?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPUtmoC2xI2gvkjIhFuBW0qSLHxXRlpVLFnNhtupgVZ_HNCyRewsvP2pUCZtfPXZ5PiVhtxbgfU0A22tEOdiw4NYX12weqAl1L_OiXLP9DYsDqxAmovxzfYB2ib7Orqi8tNKlxMV0Aaddhx-WgDc-QdmNZCrYtoVrthrA-818GKszR2wFJ9J3QlAiQCAO7idK?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
https://youtu.be/MPq-bLKLJAo (https://youtu.be/MPq-bLKLJAo)
And even more entertaining is my engine hoist:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhehHr1cHZpn27sMqOTZ5KTgsCLv8lciCAGXn3acoR_Sc6N5KUIegPnDi6131OHTPuNjtnmDCV-0Sib6LDwKCKiHbUEJuAWkKozNybSEfe7xBdGZGgprhfAYEnMtylEKRkxT5pDCY7bwML8YG0eKPkl3F6IVnj46hExDz5neJ-efMSpwwkUUA19sRP0PdTm2r?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
My Kubota BX25...how you like THEM apples? LOL
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mARa65kz2vrX3zELmVzq3bW_ErvExQ6CFOlAR3IrHpdt_Ys-MJDU-vhLs8glswQHUphbfLxXomHGqiG7CAEIWoZ69_K1NppXLe-Dz-ciIQYEmnYV4AB25zteVR44AUuupi-Kjvpfza0jN_OHPgfD4q7n0mmsFPrHpmRmVx2bJ28-qNJfN-TnLX25zmC5foXbF?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4ml3RzG2A-VwuVhKMV2kFN2-Eco_uBAdjXIiIXl5xF4-K1C4qlAtWvspYEDoAf07IV6mjUO7xmeIPNWDTLL9WKEa90PKOPrT3B8gcMwSg2H84cV5nXoj7DC-4KPTMbNXAieBHkDI69v-eoJesUMFbPV-_zqeJmXyjRyvtk7OauY_LIF-qIUD46KycQIiKw5Q0P?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Got a hold of some metric Grade 12.9 (yes, it's a thing) hardware. I made some stainless sleeves to take up the slack in the larger diameter engine stand brackets. Makes for a super tight fit and no "slop".
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mvCUdWiljSZCT_xFW64-OuiqyXCxq46cbX-h1cnwTehrSXa3ezast_3taxaMq5mhJ9ViyU-oAJO-2ZdwAdzOJcQX4yOCvRolSNNY6Lc32oi4pXlp7XVA9rw8BIhpgEflPOy2C2MU8kmpdq6J0zaiYxcsS_jhI6jdEUBL0BlWbqKh_UMW-OzhCO2gU8JqfHgul?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwNBD40x8a3ttX6j_2tmBhPqjFooOijAJBLpMN7ACkq56rCPEK-hrOKDvtXUdYbkPBZ8oyqg3TjF06KzqdMMO-T3JHMgVXIzCcC5HHsk4SL7ipj9Q60Iqn4_qhrRTk7J5-ze4o7sq0379kr2oPn6iLfMVOd7bkLqyiFMkqK_FYSbz2i_flAMMpcZeK3fUFvxe?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Everything has anti seize on it! Sleeves and all...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mTpY7mP5MOE2PCL7ao2KBNWmRZsH58KN2qP5_EjUV5rXIhAfjY6a473FPahNKj5KJ3YuO8W21Kb8rDb3oGBD3f2gDcY1QwyndBbFZKbrJ3HDWuKRO_am7PgAQ_ha9iJ9QvNBR5rMGozQxsRsURb2E_HDHVVpVBaqKroT_5PQMpOXGvcDyE94TFVySxkK_HbE1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Getting it loosely mounted:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mdK3rTnyouEbqQcsptB1Tf5_R2sSRAMI4Ufb6ZXxsNghlFriqF8HWM9KE2Okc6p4-ufPvFlnE9yji_D67n3Mf8v5M816D3N9H5QSiAC4TV1LCobNIJ92fF4lMkbzfXi1NgQBYSIoC6GTNY88BG8qnY6Nlg4MKfI56syBZrH8o3XQu_IOK0__vH49mpmCvWjaS?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBvb-O-JcooZ8LalmXSELeKgHmq4fRfOcM-euILVOzqImZCSrOoTO97VMJWHqiULEldqHdJd4jX-unJtmsVISVqwPdkDoq0hnITu0pxTC1Q9FgaI70XzbcVYv9NQv8MduXnlIjL7vgJPbT10SnBd8u8cnL27-Flh4CNsxojSshbfJBIeQDIf0v0PCKS7p0r4c?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I like to get the center line of the crankshaft lined up with the center rotation point of the engine stand.
And mounted!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjhqgnKG4aHYcefyjlIks5THbi1yjpujij1GVMtSmvzar89c1yU4lHuqAKbYsymFvAO4YWNAmL-4mAM5mcsEe0HM8ojic-mjUnbcCHNmd1dOMIWtkr1ISmw9m-eCnajlERpAM9J2SC83I8nfsqX6VNCl8rDQJh6cKWsG9Ua4m0p_DF8AkxQB-C4y8mgCBCTd2?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFn_IWzcMja67vFwGKQPkERxnC_d-yG8JoXJu-7BwvV72-kNqxW_sPD6PC2LwmdrLCJMSLm0Ptod-VxrkZJmwU4PIh3FwQKK_7ofDhgQ19Eyyxl8jRyXD7p8CsrrMeyf4O1Qn8uCqZD9-jhSIq8djjv2KJuYmT8VP8BKsCSb9tMGWDXBd4oJM3iJkPz5JKCjH?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myRPu7KJi0RNz2zUeURxQqB85nxZFOokIVVzwOmQvkhjcSRrk-rdZdbfCNnBhzwzGufCjijXLbBJChngbXzNmNiEDKx9l31dEwG0GCQV13B5ttXMAf0_Str7EL9uPtloF57bg6gBXLZcwj9CtSuZ5s1hEcG_mEs4qtI2tm--5tEXwsR7dob4VOQZWvkHn9hOs?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Rotated...just because I can...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8Y5ZW1RnvqGmaHZlHceJWeYAlnPBxU7CJZX9Hsln2huK4hAfHCKZxJptlWy5onNTNyiJmmqwOpauICKwT9JzxH6viGXP-efTWYVlO_vTnGVTfsL_6vTvTm9-TjtzCKxABi24u2EStRWvWaiNMI-tBH2Dn1jjxzheAa5XM9QtLD64ctiTlZsfb5lr5oUdB6DR?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And finally, all tucked away for the time being:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSYMsduUePQS1vm3BF-1SsII5WiEKdzFtWNJQD0iH_5UHE_X5T0M-Vw7Joj6TUsnBQhxU3qVRpba5egALB2DeOnpZU5-MvFRI_FueNEEO0SrZuUhtCGmnV2rBIYQPg1rA0Ff2kKwpFtOI1_fCLZIasKeNox1DnYaybBgAqIs9HtKr1ZSZkx6J617FeJAgjbtn?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And for those wondering what that shiny orange flexplate is all about...I'll let @bpd1511 elaborate. All the credit goes to him for getting that brought to market!
Badass!!! Love it man!! No seriously the crocs are cool too! Explorer is going to rip!!! Not like it doesn't now!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Weight Reduction: Roof Rack DeleteI wanted to get rid of the roof rack for awhile now as I never use it and feel like it might be another few pounds that can be shaved. I was thinking it would look a bit more clean and give it an even lower visual appearance by bringing the overall height down a bit.
The majority of Explorers come with the roof rack rails as a standard option with "slick top" variants normally being the PIU versions. I used a lot of the information contained within this post:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/roof-rack-rail-removal.383226/ (https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/roof-rack-rail-removal.383226/)
...and it was an awesome resource. Thank you to those that posted information on ways to make this happen. I won't rehash much of what was covered in it except for some things I may have done a bit differently.
Here's the before photo (it was dirty, don't judge me! LOL):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mB7aHIx-9tVMPNXs7wAKDTRFOwjQtwwxYIKuXYW1oK0bqMg2WIMdgqPrZ5RwZaffKEXnuY17FEFlCkZLJ9KGRMBtAWiIXHuYjM1gzsXSwT00DbykrTUQQofaW-5CY97g7VyI0Gkuu9TWRfxIfJJr2XazFvpCKw2tzu9spvXEWcoGQ3erjlLJsj4b8mTijJZj_?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
First step is popping off the end covers to access the bolts that hold down the rails.
Front/Rear:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqqJiN8ioLfwI_-PboYdiojc_oW3CLhFF-NU1VlSkWFdVdEOvfJa4KlyCAHrHNVPQJmJvvfCAzIZT0Csvmfwqk8fuqgVPGFtH7aUMwY_nfk-DueB0m4n3I1pA81JRQbM7W8lprHFAaCGL4OHCgU_6HKDzdCMJJOVRdTKjqiJIkdyysMxCbH1vdQZ9yueVJ00L?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And once those are off, it's pretty much self-explanatory from that point. Here's the entire roof rack system removed from the vehicle and weighed it on the scale:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mRUHKrYZysUzAA00h3nGiX7pcSegquCiI2QeOuXRmRw9UZo0mUrww94-a1r8JhHWEsghp51jCoE_AAvkDSZRmUt4vtdrCYsOStLADXFz2zDt-IybYYMa1kMsTkEzhk7LyKuqCA9aUvm2W9Y-v2KHtlAi2J4wRGHjTe3yAODEFmzQp-hKhWvONXXR3X2EGG64C?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I saved a whopping additional ~19lbs!
Starting with the rear portion, here's the bolt holes with all the dirt and grime cleaned up and ready for some new hardware to block the water:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9Kk5ZeJgvHfDWY1ZSI8JqaESUm0i9Lj8jIK9Nx_oZzyvi6VY38_GCI5FwQfcCmTMycVc8tDHqR8xYuSwCkg7ISlFAcSMMDoKTVvxphCqm2ekmiT2ROhwuvZQ_yeYV4pq06wku4XQ6wCJZXZt3XVCMEdUY2gky6OrqSEmDemcKDjIeAhBvzp_A3T4S0NdPmPi?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I made a personal decision that I didn't really care to add the length of channel stripping as I wasn't really that concerned about it. I did want it to look good, but wasn't too worried about the top portion, so I decided just to block of the holes with straight hardware. What I did decide to do was go with some pretty good quality (translation: expensive) 316 stainless steel hardware and some weather-resistant rubber sealing washers, along with RTV for good measure. Here's a parts list that I ordered from McMaster-Carr (http://'http://www.mcmaster.com'):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mjxA__gJnMpiwx2FQ-UamyuBeZq0DxLcCh-VUc7ld0Q1WmDkzwcq5RtCEDCByl8YPOzEAV5-PwuBWPDwi8-ClnAFnd_GHsJhu9vJTeZUo_VKo__CFedMH2m5sD6YngVv3OER1qPv1CuqTcYq0qPXeazTIMT6MZN-K_YekOsakHU0VXGv-KAyJWCjNetLu2ZYw?width=1024&height=462&cropmode=none)
Yes, those low profile bolts are pricey, but they will work great. The OEM ones will work fine as well, this is just a bit extra. Here's the hardware in action:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBGXEv1qWw3N7bG7KVf3an-ZEMTeaaLTy2mSpt4xIBiL0kr-a3WUV7gKLbsGPXFsBu7uWkiy1B1lUKRIIviBlOla17udLUdNoqHNDIKHxyvNUs645Uzgxwmf5PVhhmTpGR9ROXN0HNkA70xvJDNlD7WxXE95ArRmYLVUW1twVh9XH3U1G2H9bs4Kd1JmyFqqu?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I doubled-up on the rubber washers to ensure it sealed against the contours of the bolt hole area. And also used some of this RTV for the extra measure:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEJyXhmVMA-2eATkwQa-urVut7ekbowUf2c-bxzAUUBHFZbkwc8jDSYuwKgccdiVPngFpoS03gYi7LLfRyGc8qLQHydtSrjNVJZ7GJ5pPuus8b_m_uGg6U_GqQt1zVyZMlzqUNr3593muhyvlxJtshdS1pcLsvazEhVHHJi8f19Hag8lSh0N6UQFEGeA94PVY?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And the RTV applied:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0iA1QEfwGJb1kne_V5VH4Gv1Dp9Dsjs0JmBO0PbcCKX_f4txzK-MAH2OuQeY8zxDxJttfs5W4Sps30E2oJf5sUu5SpQUEYjqp0i1u5a9VcltRV4QFFcz-2u82_yIce55gOxLDnJmTblSa0A9fniVnr0yVpcPv-MtE-Llxd4ivfrUokwNFI79oqBz2qCoA6_v?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And the final installation for the rear area:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUiDlnoJtp9k-8PfMU2azzh1GuKNkwR90qww1zFuIQyCulvSLqDVKjnM2cJq6g82xE3YFIdu9PTNVBuAs6n_NG4QEVXaHe-8GGQIUPEJoGEiQkH3YQRLfXYl5m-DZZAzbHl73FEtnStmgX3fYKLs6KqZfxe4qnAJ79s8qyvFDfIMsSfVvN3dCJnFzDaS4NiNe?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I will concede that it looks much better with the weather stripping that is used to install in that channel. I just opted not for simplicity's sake. It's not all that noticeable and I still used the front short rail sections anyway.
Now, onto the front area. Here's the parts needed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2pSnYR1VsweQQEnwifMbSlKFuMyOvnIPjqO1H7v-SqIAyOG3dhqsLFWu2wwFZ3HHGejevmzti1u2ENhRliIP9tDbKfH5OBsd3YUPhl84r1eTG02R11bSM5R0-xVxUayC52Uv-qFxb3LjrlXnsPSzeVQnZ8rg0HpJR0usxTbFRQSYsJBfL2BjAcy7x_IAYvGt?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
I got everything from Sewell Ford (http://'https://www.fordpartsamerica.com/') as pricing (to include shipping) was the best I could find:
- DB5Z-7851728-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.77 Qty: 1
- DB5Z-7851729-AA Molding, Roof Side Trim $47.51 Qty: 1
- FB5Z-7850002-A Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
- FB5Z-7850002-B Retainer $6.80 Qty: 1
I made some changes with the sealing foam that came on all the pieces. I decided I didn't like it so I removed it all as I was going to use RTV and those rubber sealing washers for a more positive seal. I've seen that foam stuff go bad over time, so felt my option would last longer. Only time will tell...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muLypIzaRLn7SMPWRR3ZcZAKhZP8vCs84yPDFqwHrxjYMPLGEKXwxc8oAkaqRKFjMKD-eMbsgadPtZ-_TKNqX-myqZss14GPiS0TzGzDPaQfYyzxR-zynr16HZ9DjD_kMvWvnOTZSFngXAprCNP2WYxXRaS_JAvQkhBZ7m8AZH2Yruufb3TGZoMgZuD5LwVRj?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Foam removed. Side note: For those that don't know, WD-40 is the most perfect chemical to get rid of adhesive "boogers" and residue...it practically wipes off. It's great when removing decals and weather-stripping as well.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mAZkJX5xpFRYQc5xb4PT0JdrIMKquWSEtRk0OKYciYJgwU4ErV-dMWVTxkTKR_8knph-OxiU0y8L6QzmpwV2kpW0RZ58RnnbhJUK6Y6nZ40xL09hcHF0Gju29C6pZZZlxdv69MTt0HELxp8b0OWKN16ZWRgzvUm1U26ExCEMCJlLXCKljC5_uLQz6ZgSNsHaw?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Also removed the foam from the retaining clip:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4meugyWvGfFcmt80qT4FCgqFnm8JJghAOv8D2d9P6z-Y-AI9HWwI0_pBO9CSLx9vXTsA2QRHjIbOsi38FacenZNCoOh0Nj7Xy9czeu3MwqUE76qlAxRuqJugkSp0_Q4qOhVhwOli9R5BuYBn5ZSgV2DeQ9PVCds9oiRkXzpepfvobe7mFCWs7pibDzXyqejKTH?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Difference between a standard socket cap screw and the low profile ones I went with:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhU6_ak-O9nkd6IjI2ql_F10utl61xAd4h-6P2qOlXvjSMW49ndsamZA5oQg7FExnoalIpYzDEW4ohhpsU_Njl3jnT5sf0GKr8IxwFNU_JfZklsqrwIrwJcyX5yur16Ja5EBUJZKV4Qu_0Gkodzt2eo7346KXMRFL4iVUf-dNAQujpb8jFsIuFcJVYZGib-TY?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here's why:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPzzCSaINmxRiwE6Luei5t_EZwI46AAYKfXNqzq_TL0XUk4zsGaW7ZvLEQg4CBnVa-ShKB1cvJimDTbz317cZO8zKhFCB0jrimshN_M8CMpjgI5-QGgLEtdedYvR_GoC2ZFpNNoo8806GCViwn2V-35XTIAYOPV2CN52eUSMc8ujZsSjS8E1LJk4VzoZZlFrm?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mF4EQIHP9mnXHnqts4wuhVljqDyLwU-1R3PK5Hvaz7FVA1-ug92D6b93H1s3D_6SeSW-Kz0fxKGgtcBjlA95haDPIpKMHm9WFnOcwfR7MGFgyj9aZiMnAaMowAhqUE1SRNjNo-CqQMNGpFRvWt-I-8fVrcIXWn2R17sZeGqzXUpzxAstCuenxxxEaK_omD8nU?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Bolts, washers and RTV on the cover:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtSt-i9BiBGCiyHmH46RvI8zUc1OdoF3pZ1jYPI2_1yMtrfHMz_TQ7dF6P3KmW6-lwhUaswFzeDRrE5GeQZ-9ApRkPvqgxfVxV2WrZm_sLY7JSzEHrsvndHD58bJ6cCZwuMiMbvkO_taLkzXH0MYFgAk2AxDrN1RyWZGGvDzo1WTEMHWNKXPb660_t5BdZuIF?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_QM5-bwOcNzcbvdpD5fjsOUJHe2joFbl4DSGXQiu6vvb90842PP2FutbwNHsAJ_SD0ZInBxiQV1_Jpz5VuX9X4rc7_iqQ7YvJr8DjC4qPydeiR9GTCkmdqnwjjJw-xwlTIv_ihsYoPUS3-Nso3KELHgJAn9jegmLMeoNnNHroTJpFlEB4B3XP8mxvcrUM6ol?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After look:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mqyKoThvSOc6oWKjeGnaN3CyHQ27xk7kU-W6bRqMlAxCsUZMfspBFZujVO8atYUOXNsArPjP_7T4j5j_yT9PrEoONIW5IU5yWTaLRECK4PhS6cgj7f2W9A2Jnl4M1QsEnm_TqRu-nIpg1w5yJXjqZgkwSPwJkrlbAilvIkgbBBTa_1Ni2v-o9SgU0yrG8qk1H?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Comparison shot:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUd7lF13ebhVrpMaL2LjMLvZIdLp58J-WNsq2n-ySrefLZh8qy5htGngeA9dY5eOKHrWWTx27J_f6ODt5aUEVc9mxVERXl0nYlu2s8pREcwPeD5joDMBrux9pIAlfO9KxFNWtkDd1qJoBhROENkCDL7uoU1UqHtfv4V5FfVZPfWtkYRa2PzxoGF0qagmldjk_?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And there ya go. What you guys think?
Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~280.0 lbs
Looks good John, now when are you going to install that 2nd engine in the back of your explorer???(https://media2.giphy.com/media/fUwOs80ja3sTPpjndh/giphy.gif?cid=349c9dd7i9mc3orpb72ioahg3o9vpl7g6k8z6ym8tvqncdjf&rid=giphy.gif)
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Quote from: Nova on November 08, 2020, 07:57:42 AM
Looks good John, now when are you going to install that 2nd engine in the back of your explorer???(https://media2.giphy.com/media/fUwOs80ja3sTPpjndh/giphy.gif?cid=349c9dd7i9mc3orpb72ioahg3o9vpl7g6k8z6ym8tvqncdjf&rid=giphy.gif)
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
LOL...yeah, it's gonna be a minute. I gotta get the rear end tubbed first, so I know where to place that engine in the back...LOL
Real talk though, it's likely going to be a minute before I get to it, I am doing a few things to the current setup so I can work out the bugs before the new one goes in.
Fuel Pump Voltage Booster (aka Boost-A-Pump)
I've always felt the weak link in the fueling system of our platform is the in-tank (or low pressure fuel pump - LPFP). This isn't normally an issue with mild to semi-aggressive builds as the addition of a higher output HPFP and injectors along with an ethanol blend and maybe even some methanol injection have been able to keep up with the majority of the demands of the platform.
However, the reality of it is that no one has really taken this platform to extremes quite yet. Those extremes include running straight e85 and/or wheel horsepower levels exceeding the 650-700 mark. It's those areas were serious fuel demands come into play and simply installing larger injectors and HPFP just won't do the trick. In order to address this high fuel demand issue, we need to look at the very first step of the fuel system, the in-tank pump. My breakdown of it is that, with those other components, you've basically got yourself a firehose nozzle attached to standard garden hose bib. At the extreme ends of the spectrum, you'll just never be able to feed that nozzle what it needs to truly shine.
I've recently began running straight e85, and already the cracks are starting to show in the armor. According to my tuner, we'd like to see a low pressure side reading of at least 80psi. Well, at WOT, we were seeing dips down into the 60psi range, and the HPFP would follow with a dip in output and/or increase in duty cycle.
Now, I have been preaching that the low-pressure pump is the weak link and to that end, I have explored many, many different options (surge tanks, larger in-tank pumps, etc.). None quite off the table, but most of them are very complex problems to solve and, frankly, exceed my limits of advanced fuel system knowledge. So, to that end, after speaking with Uwe over at XDI who was attempting to install a larger Bosch 400 into a stock fuel bucket I had sent him and found that it just wasn't quite possible reminded me of an old trick that may be able to be revived and used in our platform.
Enter the fuel pump voltage booster, known to many as a Boost-A-Pump, or BAP (although that title is usually in reference to the Kenne Bell version of the device). The theory here is, the more voltage to the pump, the more work it can do. Pretty simple, right? Well, it's a bit more involved than that...so here goes.
The OEM fuel system in our platform is a returnless, pulse-width modulated, direct injection system. What that basically means is, there is a fuel pump driver module (FPDM) that is sending PWM signals to maintain a system pressure that the HPFP can use to push the rail pressures to above the 2000psi mark. It isn't like the old school pumps that just ramp up and down in speed to maintain that pressure, but rather, turn off and on at an incredibly fast rate. This means, you can't simply interrupt the voltage signal going directly to the pump, you need to interrupt the signal pre-FPDM.
So, on the advice of Carl over at Vapor Worx (http://www.vaporworx.com), I decided to go with the JMS (https://www.jmschip.com/fuelmax/) version instead of the Kenne Bell (http://kennebell.net/products/accessories/boost-a-pump/) or MSD (https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_system_components_and_service/fuel_pump_accessories/parts/2351). The JMS version has a reputation for having the cleanest output signal and has some pretty cool ramp in/out features that I found I'd like to use as well as being able utilize a 0-5vdc trigger if required.
It all began with the arrival of the pump:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8rUvDA2AFrI-KptY90mkTWLo2I1nD7JRL75ATcPds8DV33ttjP9WZmOLzh-TtHb8bA9D7tBSVeFt-zafyehAvYAl6VmGVux1ytzhY8kBkeCDwzCXmNThMNJw_swhR3UOy3C7YhtJK070g899NUgVBVU0GxGygdV3rSh8geue5crKHYmPkmnTd3hNT8zu59-M?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It comes with everything you need to get this thing up and running. That includes a Hobbs switch for using boost as a reference if you are so inclined...
However, I really wanted to utilize the 0-5vdc trigger feature of this device as it allows you to fine tune a ramp in/out rate if you desire (and I do). So where do I get a 0-5vdc reference? Hmmmmm...well, you really DON'T want to tap into the MAP sensor signal as the act of tapping it can sometimes introduce noise into the system and have weird effects on the vehicle. You also don't want to tap into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) as that can open and close at various positions not equating to actual fuel demand. I guess I could install a second, dedicated MAP sensor, but that would be over-engineering the solution. Why not just go with a solution that JMS already had in-place. Use of the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. Because I like plug-n-play, along with the ability to "EDIT/UNDO", I opted for an off-the-shelf solution (https://www.jmschip.com/throttle-position-sensor-wiring-harness-p-gmp2-f-dcx-apps/) from JMS. They had a Ford wire harness for purchase:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzVmkZ64gs2w5DeU4kpA3qQsFDcOCGxwFYdVtwOZhUJqbSIPd5rsofpHYyrRnn_i2NRaOeLORCONtXiJQNpQqtfTBD0snNfGDwkeX5oa8xq25wEyxN_RYlv55q3pr9nXIrgKqjc7OHha5MtRJGAY0brRxbrA_FGj9FYWrX_-KYvi_PhD98ttnEIneLtB43hGB?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
But if you want to keep it on a budget and not purchase the adapter harness, simply splice into wire #2...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOX1452ZGMczPH66ot4pbWCIlsznza3jX4BvL-qel8Le4-dh34HcJ5o9lCi7Rlv0kDiQ6OZ-jC36qiLkRjEMz0FwNWxzEseUuI5IxfVdfK5DKnrO8gnanX1GBdAITjnwXdTmEtN1hV4oPFZnZFz0g6G9WInDCupKuINQToy8RzG7m6kyN3sye0s4rUm0HPBmM?width=1024&height=724&cropmode=none)
...of the connector C2040:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5iZocQvsr8CIPSv9bPoNPvqo1PfOmSflFa_d5qk-DHbhdv9LvQB97ZtbRuU2zFG5SjQwF7RTPlV9hLF8D8RQ9jVkCoIYsgOG0qRvZb8nRVNtQOrlsllqSBdX5LAyRQ36TJ-pRoA3pRtpaTSGrme5qJ7AQBSbN3_g_b8HcUOgN-UVn2UnTML3paDFWBokaJLi?width=1024&height=607&cropmode=none)
The accelerator pedal connection before installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mk9rm9JX5XJHrTjisDQ9JarX9KURtBNPBezWKAsjZrYk9FBF2IRo6SPiL89UC8fI_Obp8cRXN19S3CWbYs4tl7UGXHUGyJRHeTgWNGkD2boFnP385tNm0KC8bee9QfC8OUPSYcSiP-UIuY01SNHKqBQIy37g_sw9dnVoURfmxLjnsLXrbPAdXKLQMDfHnx4Wx?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFuPT7P4_nbdfC6AEU-ZOm_Zbah6wUYouqUkJDX2Y1gKj-wEBLp8otbKMtwNg-_AVgfI8QeJ4Hut3-DGse4o6l2xaiRQnGJbqope0dwWT0WY9Yc841pPLb7R2dHiDb8dFwwqkCSZTUEnRm5vudltuP8o35TOWLIdNsvuPq-1BVl9Uxu9F_Ovuz-PURZbs3m38?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Since I was going to use the pedal position as my 0-5vdc reference, I had to see what the actual range of output was. Just because it is a 0-5vdc output doesn't mean it's at that exact range. Below is a photo of the voltage at rest (left) and the voltage value when the pedal is floored, simulating WOT (right):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mQYZS7IugpQgGzoDd-tffHlmfk_9uJAOGPUVJ6v8KIyt67QSAr2bRSu6JOhOfLPQni_qfE5b7i2ZETVSnOvr_ubasGbDeiK0g9T9yDivurt8Rc6_BOxSVFEppaWFhWnX1a7SDW8eHZ3pbI2p3X1oQaW-ISctBEMnQojftNM2RFRdjLAcCSf8VYlStNWQYIT42?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This test was done key-on, engine-off.
Next was accessing the FPDM. Even though it is underneath the c-pillar cover, because of the way Ford decided to assemble this car, you have to remove almost the entire rear interior, lol....ugh.....
Here is everything off but placed loosely back into position, other than the c-pillar cover:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1wj5HBljd3pwA0QvrIOephvb12EEnEy8vhWbnXAT7tsEr37mZBUmMKxheLAnNjFo-8RWZtPBgFXhYO9qWRCqdTQD_K-E0aVDjJwSsp-_5kstLI_plOh3jcnOzfvfADFm2bw8yvHuDsJzbKNLa7wnPU83mr_0-eJc1aUZgZFeYY_ect4PelqdDFUb91S5jcYc?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMwhYf1rHlTPHz7rw1YT1liXGe3Xi8LbPpXSk3OclZSSUg5iJpHsU0Alg2jBYxe2gW7OTpU2FTozl7h7mzrh4pjynviT0DSMNNMAgZ7qFyUnTGiX0SXrThuQo-B-QE13TYmW_PdfRH4TQixWdwfdBjtxL7EfzgF8dlFNirQgCnyEg5qDHzxsy3tFj7CV90k-D?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It was at this point that I did some data collection on what the FPDM is seeing. I have two Fluke meters so I decided to also see how that voltage compares to what the pedal sensor is putting out.
Here's a video compilation:
https://youtu.be/sowgmHvzBUg (https://youtu.be/sowgmHvzBUg)
I have plans to wire this in such a way that I can remove the BAP and put it back to stock relatively easily. This requires the use of my extensive Deutsch connector set:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mw8F9igN-aHk7rUCYMTmo84vcJac0uYcg06sF4mz9COkFV8Ib0xKCcRM4Htw80zhn6br6-Jt6jNQKaABLvQgo3Se3GQndiR7kt5To6b6rXS-z3IKwL6tH2QvUubjbrH3-O9ToQZx3aeuHgdKdB1Zwv2kMEQvqMMbP0JDeaYjdtAi3RGvLEG9tMzLL6evvnr87?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is the JMS "wiring" guide and which wire is needed to be intercepted:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJYN4zBipq1YV0VgZCsa8kRGfuNIUKjBYmSoI99aGOqgQTnabfAdF8C89wdDuAKZr3nrDBqMb640p2fHIHdVj2lelG3BOZDqHhhEznbhecqU1MnpIHniAf14dbQMG64zyIVj13Zj_8ftpMmBicQwzenp__tkH4X6MQaocxiAXHDElOfOF0LFcZT7LG2W7ruPM?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And here is the OEM wiring schematic along with connector C3239 pinout, the wire of concern here is wire #1:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mERjsoNDfwbSasC5jr7gn17sa7JtHGaxZeTbcsriQq0M5rRqwCs7v4p7lWI7xmuAKHEehI6aX-CXjXOOgeZbOagFr63aUuc9uFhtO0A3IT9WEhfrhC_HmbYEXLcu5LFXVWSJN8ZpjIy5YuWzSqxKDmAAyn4ag3JnF0rQVYk7X291m0kYUsAgcY_cI1TzNCYVV?width=1024&height=724&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhfg8cval1oQPo_wgFxDwGfjTjBQArIrEiUgkBI4pgoMti2IE4lXpBqHJLYAsFoy_uKEACzWe4yrJUC_nq5rn779aPYb3V1CgiOrClQ9kV_jfj7T2tYFdT2514WAOaqSUGpm11OvGdefWGPorNhboCQx5Zi9yd05FgfVmTH9KPG9yAajJxsz0HSbdTog5YV1t?width=1024&height=667&cropmode=none)
Tape peeled back and power wire exposed (Purple/Green Stripe...Incredible Hulk colors, how appropriate for the POWAH wire, LOL):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYELg21tlUlivmpVOnGJJ7oUze0xj9NHWrBvRNiB_ZEgygUk-2OfN7suMYwObNGDHySlJaQ8-zjiHW807EqdTEy17XTVYtM2sBEVNDPsRJFq8mtPYLUG4K3JgYoKPc7ejPwo95NcGVhNaCJnLaV2fw224YOdJzDfKQdumTEVNTIdtPt5J47CRUPSGCJIKL43j?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Using a specific Deutsch crimper...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mGlGuZF6RODLuuVV3H3A5v_qm_EYv7aHWjyHMhBX46Q8DNsZcF3GFYgcG8S9HLN87i8Jgt1GoqNANRqrR3Au-eVfsuCp0XHBc7DMPf-ictTr2pFh3PkoWydgz-KqGU1sP9PUZEq3MpjAfFY6oLKynPLCO_SGkNEE4aHuOUUldB4G4cFYrjzER_GnwjEZCcDqc?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
...you can make these male/female ferrule crimps:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhew0k7duTmQULtI9bQRL22TiJjqhLzM4lcERYXjphhTEbiXvflp-zXeCe9Tp8g9BbAo1BgiVGpeTtTkCaAtW-jU5IcIYFIlO0yhPrVFA8m-IPhP-W088pKa9wxFDjAeB_GfxS0uOldWtfJmhswM7JEgXGO3tw01_LYL4X4eqD8o-jThzDF16Gb0ZRtcuZpyf?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
One side done. Just one wire from the FPDM to this connector:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mxKg7oMcbNFe0LrVBLr7kF6BooyLeatYQFcVXmaJmsdUeWCO6SayxUs_6DWGmjTpus1ZeSoOKaAzLCLiagi-iNgygdnaC3bQNfb29ZUsJi6XsLeQmEP6Y7wRB0-cW6SVggwnQyeywsnTyR8lX04NwPur-ngzUmRU6Y1VybTtL0-UeZo3fGYzup7kvR_KVXNyf?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Other side done. As you can see it has 2 wires, one going to an existing ground. When it's connected in OEM configuration, it goes nowhere, but when it is connected in BAP configuration, it will be the ground for the BAP wire.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDDMVFYPpfVQYqP3YFcGJi9imC1ygrl1T5h0_UnKRaRyqvF7z3VG-opQ60Z--BZVjGvpeb1FYsaavR2G3jSN77ifyjBTZj2VySrwEVfCA_lQvhgSasoodJyPygOSBdLZJEx7kRqMLBu5UEcV8FzyADu9K3oPjX1nzsLEYrKnUUxoSYGxEI8N_nxwBoOL2rK7q?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And here it is in full OEM configuration. I can easily connect/disconnect as needed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrd3zoQP0zsygkNBmE4dU2p0n9iL_Osqoa-hTo3aPVGgwnEiKdAacvXoBZsTu2fYfOtuGjs-xkw3uQ1lrrC_ScrBMkjq6hKmTXx0PZw5gALf3p_FWPACWFQPf83sX5k1hwkTSW9hg-BLxfHOOKS6sKQXcK9ejan-PyTYned4aiBTernYiGccPXc3xvbNUvzp1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now onto the BAP connector itself. The wires are just cut wild when you get it from JMS, but I took a page out of the MSD book and used a DTP Deutsch connector end here as well:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mDYq8IO7kMkqibRbBnSNW4pLcasiFt77bDPBNj0E-00Rg5Vqjc_B8cild5qFEUlrILNdpeDZCoCKAlNbKpMwmEWYu3vI7Gjb8IREcNsNmUGxwKPmYWUCtyQKGZF-BdrD0ExGTd1nugmowBvcVZNEdJkPGsoiBUOkH3aQmcW-LLj8OIlGoXd0QREuz24N8OztP?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCuxrYBHIGhmPSMmu_FVWyKGisy0MrtKDnp2d5Q6tWKjpAd6rpUoTwh_1yatXF_tCkls_Cz650bXYkCCjtO5o0KMFwX6TaqtpSWkdybFWLZkNk2rITxE8QywrAG4XI9nK82mFnzyJUY5tOl0wzJu_JL9vAv_rAhp2xxzbslGP119dYzShsUaymrt2VGMt44GL?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhYPEjVRRg_lYdmXNubwPcKAgsLAsXCmyfesTjKBvULOJqHaStGiMmx3slwJyJg0uvnlYxQ06QYuTL0pKH4hHLu5ZUz_TDmNm6iSJxA5_t_uIaifz204xLFpO4VwU8UKymvJ6Gmbj9xR0aPmn7OJQxh2hzjxE2WgB6ojdWvErOhMgiyo5AdBppdcS7P__jZSD?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now to make the harness that connects the BAP to the FPDM using more DTP Deutsch connectors:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOlsKnwEFUk7yMVd730kOT09sVMYrZVrkey0ZQ5t2c72ktLgJ1DlRVCGhvOgZgFJZmYNJ6567tfs7y1G_udFmjF3lNh521542POLX79k9ltn81Vm63EKEZoMvgors3pyCDAH3vFdFJvZeHCZJKwS_IbOB1LbPxEIHZhGb0viaoOJiwFdG_s29lt-Hs8rq3qZR?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mc-YQJ617WBQHms-LUPSuTqP6_1GUjES4xx2rgjdYIiV_EpN8c3L5VgvNm2m0Jjl3JQbvA8a3DHEd5Fl_HxuvkKv_qrKT55wLwjBcVfnNxkKW-eAYSCVxzGcDRdLdKgPMN2CEQu1CAOWzayqgmELIfVVK4nHarDKptjHqoJq2D5E1Wx53nOT0KVpSO1lQVi-3?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Going to leave one end wild for the time being until I identify where the BAP will be physically mounted so I can figure how long the other end needs to be.
For the time being, onto the mounting location and brackets. I decided I would secure the device to the roll bar that is in the cargo area. Thought it would look pretty trick and also be close to the FPDM.
For the base brackets, I used some 1" by 0.25" aluminum bar stock I had laying around. I cut two pieces 4.125" long and started measuring them up for some mounting holes:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6L_dcQAzVQOa4dsYba2U9p-4IXd8a3beEBYTqudd6zeoRX2OGDvVmUOWf8AVYqqhybkz4658X8tuAA5WMzy-ExDc_pFr25mCA076DyWN687UxiVqbb-f5bEdiV7lUqx7QOkbZ1VRHRHL99hzuu-Lvaw45wuIgKE_Jg8O5dm1dd6etp97_pRL01WdiZ6vPf0M?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkA-4SST9elYZQ9WN7er9RKHcqv2VynAm_iEWMaqR_ofn04Ild5jLqvgSJC5D9Js8BMzsYlP8tVq5D5cPFWv7e-vuJNXcj-DH1oACeHISdP49PS_ZXvU3S-QB48CHibqESs7BWZKGBTt3awuZLDQYDh3oTNYM4M1jEa-7ennc9FpOoEzZQygrYV6iVfZcG72v?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJMNjBL3f2Y4Qpv95edznFwJmwTcZw-bH9NKD6LNBr0YLxFCv4FjlEpsKUO853Zd2rFpu2VO3v7ujmAskXImfF5N3xsvI8QVwVSYb8gUeP8nR5HGApLkKajTNueNc6ElKn9QeK8hh9_Ti4FSLjh3dwiS-IOQQ3-MZeJ1gFYCp08X9DLz4xl29FPGsxScnGFVQ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I'll round the edges and make it look nice and likely powdercoat these as well.
For the roll bar attachment, I got 2 of the 1.50" Longacre mounts (http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1805&prodid=9511&pagetitle=Universal-Switch-Panel-Bracket):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8v4rPfOXWspYPpWEvE-lFhghfN3gICEmoIcrmkfou1334XYVB4j1p3rkeYmTLAvHsoKhFq2h_wijN0xorO8lvP0Vn8xHDEPA7z0eM-GsYbFIPcDCWyVJbrXAcL5Mocjfv8JiQTMx9eb_zBuO_aAO_ludR7T69Tc0K7JWUfSN3zqQukT9d8kbB2C5VYuRhgf5?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
There was one small issue. The roll bar wasn't an exact 1.50", it was more like 1.55". Not much, but enough for it to not fit properly. I was going to have to do a little bit of grinding on it...so I conveniently had a spacer laying around that was 1.50" with a shoulder of 1.60". It worked out pretty nicely to give me an edge to go off of:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhpFzSXEKV-y8CI3bLfDdz_KngPRJFtvg8G7RLg_rP8EpD9ryQRSE3V5DmXTCF3juolKtchf_uzy9Sh_6isKiiDWP0kSSULM-YqqeN8LHAi0k8iyH2v1TeUUGGX_YX-Ka2nmMV9Rp-9eUcIXjXwud-bEu-ZekKDTRJu7DMUl7GpubHY57byZIRGtQWmLrfSLQ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1wIc7MoiUNLw9pXJrf5mB2Rftq087K2qEzqwpQWNwBSirFhbCGkyR_3ShFnaWoT7OUuCvoglbRoe0uFnMGW35zBcfppT9wAkxihzPh3MunCtCa8RRipGypChvKRkWUzrEJQbw6aXoQ97tNwRcN06xKdnY7zeOkVDlb8CzFNC5dwHf5rhdYuqSu5atns_ct4K?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mSv1G-6DohJwoac99jurw4w7IXYN-vevJPVUiUzsDMXZzaLD2YYVC0sqqzcyzLdRvNV2cqUeIOe6_W3SzznkD_t18SygwH96XMudWtbQSJz07Nz35oZo3uTI2f4A3Agi-HfW1rXt5G_sUNoUiQmppFyK_d3CHDQMU5M3JTY3FGgFpCG4kiqK4qPDk524ZZ4M1?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I'll likely powdercoat these along with the above brackets. In addition to the brackets, I used some of these rubber isolators (https://www.mcmaster.com/5823K5/) to give it some vibration dampening:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCF9DBmtRRx3sBBBhyTe3EtGZs9IYhJXqSYAId-xXXKZRWmlJSogB_Jr3X_N8cNNq75acdGNuWrFyTozLAq7RuJJK7o95IAC3wi5Q4MkTtTWb7BQLxS-CXQIw1ChPGq61xqSQNVst1-b4p4gLbJyjZBJ3bKOVI-bdMHu-t6zh8bm2FJRxSxP-VvJS3IOPi62O?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Here's the device mocked up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m4XH48Dm8hau-ZkMg1xshX83XvfQviwP9AE-wR0xZDYDlYpu_XsCVQjbB1J-kINfuCWaxtSqrRUY_BHQ8Y4t8BVNdoAEahFht9RYjATqBRDoFFe21xbJs6Y91CC3bdgNg5bqY1M9TdvqIvrpIdnU6Csl_zHHoYS7XS0Lu89VpEcV93-5bU9-1NufCKOvRpVmx?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Now I can start making the connecting wire harness. It's running behind the wheel well panel cover and up to the c-pillar:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4myRhDUxkcY6cMaeJ1a2leEA1CqyZOQp2pwdGfNkjvncotPFv6tc3Lja-vP9T_JyQwg6FxEtDGWWqscfp9etB0ZhJerA0tVOzHbeLNo3DgZ3ZTGVjfNEr1OHRUhfowLpVxW4OrHjU3g5QNxafLYosjSvS_Xvc06hnq91vJ3cF3fHvTbvNx5vhe2jhKxvzyS9tj?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After marking where I need to trim and where the terminal ends need to go, here's the final piece to the puzzle:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miMAwuxbksOgvU0IQETZE9WpVWjHWDwgHrN8kolmrTZdt-lbJ2n_5m9-96I7VpZyj8nZzHMM9MT30XLIu7QgRcGs6UFQA4d5uFxaQQRd8aT3GBAIsSEpIVnTMkOB2QOtxlLEjdSiY7mEdWHXdryxT_bgZnXMKryKFCp3N9jeU5FvaMPYYH-jCz2pXIkj9S3pH?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So, JMS calls for replacement of the FPDM fuse and upgrade it to a 30A fuse. Well, it just so happens, the fuse for our platform's FPDM is already 30A (the only green fuse in the photo). It's found in the Battery Junction Box under the hood, position F65:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mTmh2dT0ppZgxDrxGFt-g2wBAaCyXTkypnxqPulvRLvCHiTQs3pzIRMFpbCA3EpG7DuDjhc7WxnuOwiHjzkrM4H5owYfVE2ee1Wg-m-HX-jNJzD5ZlIxwrBmqZaIwdjGJyTmIW22rqXn3Fd9XyDNKxtk5aofOGmPLqIzKUykVEGM1Omcztkil7oKZzMn8SyLX?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Once that is done, now it's time to crank it up, do some testing setup and test this puppy out! This is a hot mess as I'm simply doing setup/testing to make sure everything works:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m3v7LMhtplH1BjL5hXp8n6aF_1g3i64eT0udzyrfYhIaeTvw8xTdw7HEISDkhG-Ow249cf56haaKC1KwMWsPDzbKu2DvGS3c8UH7MZduRaAXh4eMZmgtEeHWDo65M4dtOtyARdBC0mNW_7PTeeW1updmSgqC2-8dM6YlSneOy9iBLBoAHRnEtgrR-1XNBnHvZ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So, what settings am I using, you ask? Well, According to Deatschwerks, the pump is good for spurts of 18.0vdc. The highest I saw this at WOT was about 14.8vdc. I want to ease into it for now, so I'm not going to go over 17.0vdc.
So, I got it setup for maximum voltage boost of 17.0vdc. Using the pedal position sensor, I want to ramp it in using the largest ramp the unit allows for, a 1.2vdc sensor ramp. I have it set to begin boosting at a sensor reading of ~1.40vdc (~20% "throttle"), which means it is at full 17.0vdc at ~2.60vdc (~55% "throttle").
During testing at idle, it sees standard vehicle voltage, but as soon as the pedal is depressed, once it gets to the 1.4vdc value, you can see the FPDM voltage increasing. Now to take it on the road and see how it responds...
...road testing turned out interesting and I'm actually very pleased at the improved pressure readings. I did a log both before and after. Here are the results, all else was equal including the tune. This was a 3rd gear run from 2k RPM all the way to 6k RPM.
Before BAP:
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4molpTESeUejMqPJEciOfkFFRAOSk4e8BUItiQM8uj6n8EpKUh16PhliMQK3QmUM_1Wsyunoxs_CoyC8AgR-UF3ZWqotA5-9rtQhnAY7gfgQ8rN13j2zdXPeBpsTCGE3WH-pFe6Yc0GFuGJbBLxdllrAmGtiJbPN_zb2YaWMoMz_B3T6M0icLS2McgANeQf0FL?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
Before BAP:
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muzEU7GsaWKKmev-xkN7WJ7_EZbVdKX7u_8g_bewjuI93cmquo6AsKIzh82UlwSvIEmDOq6_RYBGf7nFN2BzIDHu3sVXHaPcc3R7vC2GSgkqHSo2EqU7rE0z_OdrMEBBCLvGcZi0TkHXb0kd3xUtjTr9-QIdWV7PNlDvU7UJGTNE2GOvx3Im9sVfBDejercwJ?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
Before BAP:
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mw1tu3WTxh4vYaaQO7LD5MOAbDZlYZ9sNlZiCYUnj0HepqHioupT44H6BMfidQHx1msy-Df62-llR3pZ-iTb8yiM-LRU9nJ9B1yag9daxr2OPqnq1Nr1P2t0xttTIhEP9vI7r8acKEIRYA8Iu6PzuJ-vGvfgyyYHVh7XH-AU-RMQ9yFDxggABR4IaBeVuEQ4V?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (no tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9P-xqGPNps7PYtdAJZvwT08F1yTkt47K6I4uv8DB8tJuO8GFH2vmmMynvVcsBZ41AH7NrFtf7Hzul2MzPy7NJwJiWSsJVFVVFOll_kD8m_z-6Q5o9ZybIL7DaOSYqwxKX4n3nXzm_D9tJaanfA6EwmakAKd4y1XPsBS-w63ucEMtqKNrfLKmjgfmVexmKHJA?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (no tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFDKS0u4D1cCAllUdGug6mMkMOl193J5lJ6KDw2QqCuXQUVFPpY0LYx2qRCMdIGf5OZahzhQukL-Xbf1zPmndHNjieQVOpvh_fvXVhsD3qXah_aDcwFWW0fLFHFShnxGTAJuWIeIN6PplieiAvoVI57q44KcP1VPxC_uAThSissmwThFCmdkyAEwj3G9zC0UB?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (no tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mvu0yt1PoL_MmuHW70pxMsyrtgrG9QRX886z4kXSEwvUmDluhajH_2cjteGcYCNyZ2phwQoZvgGavF8Tdq0ceVGXsA20221MX2iiDnR3HDQqKR7TR4Octaq2G6jWocQROwazghLM87owqHVBc3-kv5I3QPH502595lzPCEdzpu4egp3jyn_9wwysvJBEEG1mt?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
As you can see, the low-side actual pressure was quite a bit better than the run without the BAP. This tells me there is a bit more flow. It could still use some help at the end, but it's markedly better.
So, now that testing is done, onto final assembly...
Here are those brackets rounded out:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mWgHSN_mfBK45mTYfZQP2nPleyzyfxH85fZTYZju9oN2NrDXG8l3nIfvl1Dlz_nnPkXfMdlOixcNeqt8_2mhop9K-rlxKoVddwk3jjJzsgZMFP96F7NohoexoipFRgYrsAR7Qn31wUTe4dBo31eGU1Ha8yOzQHEt0riADl3C2CBMEU7r0wZceifvWgiDtKUg-?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And all the small pieces soda-blasted. I'm leaving it raw aluminum but may end up powder coating them once I get enough other stuff to make a decent size run:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZWqjNuiEqW2MAUqPyoMH4f1bJGLPBgY694m14Gg_M4PHfxtxug198w6IWzTwxWVSz5RWIgwPJmwdeSE45cFDUZ6RseeWpgGFJecfz5CCvXYcqt9IUaTMclcYrp83am2jmt88Ad6u8f_tV4pQ0YPznWnFdfqwTgeJyHnhTRBOD1m96BY3HyfOEOKjllsZJ-Lm?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Secured the wire harness behind the interior panel:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4midnQz7kOpcOuWaHbGyASUxpvLl9KSwWdr9wzeznplmoScEor4xzKiGW0AQ3HZSu9CUyjNLY1JBF64YI9YclqBqnyTAoOKOK0b1Q6tBOeeHcLld-uh52VChFkZVGy9hn0f5BndMLfAMEGaC9YuilpGz6F3YvylEGhmg-5ikrrrvjCAD5oew7qWC1l-LmxlvQk?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Final position of the BAP:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mgjj1XjcZfteMWODTyKYtVSG4kQzWGUadB9cFi-TKnQxGt_K0KafxZ0x9TKYBS8n4pMB67W7zUip9TJJ6GKj3kZvaAAzlgEfHMTEVn6bAAICtIyFYMhta9UTNOs4ZC89ibt1FW3YKk0ZYsnzMzUeBk7mLBVfjB6a1bIDwcv8oV6YrkyLmDbJ0EoO6JRol5JJ4?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And I decided to leave that small c-pillar panel off permanently for weight savings! No, seriously, I'm going to leave it off as I may need to access this area from time to time. One issue is the seatbelt goes through it. I've got the airbag seatbelts so it took a few steps trying to figure out how to get that big click connector through the hole without cutting the panel.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5J2U_aAtUH6sCb6nSRrsA6rpzKBhaOKd8G_REBKRvvKFEb7RPIrqL03kurSvzexl9INH2qPvRrqNi5-deAxA-UqpWLkdmyAIm0NO651X825cQeyAxSkUa-FxwInu7BDaOxFBteZnSy8Hmv5HozdDB3JFT4KjnbKmxR0S1negZxxEVyAqzCKPY7DT2vX3YAL3?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Separate the plastic halves. They just pry apart:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1n1bderlI0lbxVP6DeX7BlSnlraZbz9WbPuBvGbe382Pf77Gl2Qy9JUb_OSXUXX5GkUVoVvrwPEnIT4Rtx42K7hX7VJHiu_fjYaMS4zSD7bfhysZTn41HhNSIlYPnn3Gdj79bOUtMr7bH218hETwBJV9CCpHSa69wYszIbN0DOsE6U1mUl9sESceEKZxz7QZ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
You'll have to push down on the spring metal tab under this side of the pin and pull the pin out. The tab holds the pin in place:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mKRFgkuIiqVkUKsUqY8fRvWm8uOpZLnjCiN0Zvn89m2fGKwfyMwBe6rGIoBb9_FXwrjv8DSr5itnoqUDmKVeOiQxF_C6h3xeo_tWCIAp7fin7UtIPLXpAxgrcvSU340CgdLC2msoxCRC0Hu8PwZAVXQYIuSs4zPeWzQ8wYerTmu3srxxApSYxRIWnjt3U38k3?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is the pin removed, and you can see how it holds everything together:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mEppGZ3xzHeTcCP7TdLkF2Bs_GKhFrvgfLES6S6py8B5V62fb1yn0ldDw8cIhqL3EmE4aLaLPsF8gDhr9tFOZ-WroEoWYdZnJBKmPgEeWr7QxtkZQc9E9qwU5eb-c3n2IipUrM1GsNXHH3S-MeF_IPp2Vf6Y2Y8oQKDf0qpdRyJqoPieVX0W5jlaiJk2dfuNg?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And here you see everything separated. Just pull the belt through the hole of the c-pillar cover and re-assemble the seatbelt...too easy:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mKqC65hHlrspTWYKxOS7KImv7xh_axxYbREVOrhJMjPjm0zOgo-KFunHhTlR0NhHf7UXARe3gmKwNs81QXBLQkHcFCyMzgjnspDT8qNGT5MzVa0X78q1Njs7IxGMwxJoA4tuPcjBMCd7GPYDiv4LW4kE1ANTk14jxe0FAea47GDoBip9I8kH3UGG2NoJZwIQd?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
The trigger wire that goes to the pedal position sensor I am running down the other side of the vehicle. Here's the other interior panel off:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwhTz2jqXevj9KGcG4sxZ_PkuJCuQ-PSW8Ykx3chdTiSLOaFkquibcrm_S7RCkp8wiIDUQHA1g9xubvINu1TMS6Ddr9azvAnQ8ID8Q1HOUwXgZztochQMqQY1oYu2p8i6S820KIRlAtw_o1x5wQK0zHm4Jdl3avbI4XZV_5P0FBEqsPqztQxsZkjXJt4jyzjX?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Running it down the rear passenger door sill:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4my_dQIn3K0AfyIHjfITen8bFRv4G2UiAS2j3XO_D8sN9TEvetzlo4po--NV_Y6bcEWRIgdED_Aep9wKKOyGHPZu3MQKWKXahXlNhQnNHvrxeHLRBEJPlFfP9uEVW46zEEdwVpkW-OyLvFFOtCoZ6jKSmKZb4Zz92tSlh3BCOnzCYHwaNkbERkTrgGgqW6mzVs?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Front driver doorsill:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mCrSe8WTvB9P8YDiH0bhSOdIW0Z0gihG7cK-asxDg-YZHySexGYje9XQjpvSoE0bGuwuR-inu-3JHJ4a9W5yLTXuGBNQM9fcQ1UTvUgBdVYeEIt546y3fxMhfNCkQ9VHAsuFrMvZS0CDB5mPorlBqW3z2wrSjkN4yH-ZrsVrKqXprrsljNuz4B1PpxKQKfFz0?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And up into the foot pedal area:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m0KDe--xu92wF0gIqPu8hG0XZJ0Rg4jB6EDuGWwq5WkGo6G4bKF1WqGZdPj2-XmIYE5sQckcbGV54iTSXtkcFhKViufXwSU_4IgK03CnOPo3OJ8QvQc5ZNNcz1RZ2Pn9K0MeCzMER_gHyvoRlxypTI_HVopulRhvGdU_kPXP8mDYVs3VYa-YLRwb0sHysWpoV?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Cool little cheap tool I learned to use when I worked at a car stereo install shop...a very large HVAC zip-tie (36" long or so) with the head cut off. This is an AWESOME tool for feeding wires through places...get em from your big box hardware store. It's definitely one of my "must-have" tools as it's been indispensable throughout the years.
Anyway, once the wires were run up into that area, everything was reconnected and tested. All the interior panels where put back together and all is done! Now to go get some datalogs!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2iCVw_-BXVEFCvRhSYUF3DwZ72Mm3JHqG0jI7vaA-_E1bH9YcmnNj50_0oa39Rcm5L-cHVaFaLNpwk2DAq8SD14vMX6MsPeIbN8N2UV3_2lo9gpL5rpJ2DEgBRVomMog5KOfq7aeuASJd1QT5shu6YPtSMscE2fcOVv4ChKLbP_tqUGxl-upRsyXY6RFn3KP?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
So, some results after a tune revision (btw, I'm still dialing this tune in with Brad, so this isn't the final tune).
With BAP (with tune revision):
Brown = Low Pressure Desired
Green = Low Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLV0stZSPN83KBKqlVtsEgbQ9fSZO7kMaKC5jTnhK9Jrxsp9a7Vb0QloYTHkr0-X2ydnBeBgJhN5LJStzbmC7a_w0g8qS-UUlBxkxfGAaojzBH1wL5M5cTElwt2Lw6GLmfSUMJctgngxal6Ypqf5qq7XG9xE69oXPuezhHlWeAsa9_QG2vo4vzjlSBAkfu--0?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (with tune revision):
Green = Low Pressure Actual
Blue = High Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mnN25oNiCAwGiNRyi4waSziKFutg2c2x44m1fC1xLxu7rgB0YMCmdBsEQLY2nbpING-On5d6IitDUBc90CQeRNfmmTQjNzTKx9CC4b-Yz1PwdYeaVogNVbmVxQlE4Paf2E2dvthIincWRqw7xVBOfYthWsFZExbDjM6205otGHftfP9F-cKeg4gyNdwZOuJEw?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (with tune revision):
Yellow = High Pressure Desired
Blue = High Pressure Actual
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m18JTwK8OwHngTHAiLgasPsvZ0HbfHYbPVTCkGqsvtS86rIxjL_wAOaDEg3Obe3OKxVFI_m1f9wYo6CMmuq3ia-hjrJ85Ya2ilo6dxiQ2Wv0ez_l5pqgSa-unDskLYI6n-Ex0sJ4qliVa9BI6nK0UBfT8vptWhL2YPvAOz3sUXFq2NBY8HCUb55LxK-Qq8EtJ?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
Wow!!! That is quite the documentation and build for the fueling! This is awesome. Thank you for sharing!
The improvements are clearly visible in the data logging.
Is this running E85?
Quote from: Admin on December 15, 2020, 12:54:49 PM
Wow!!! That is quite the documentation and build for the fueling! This is awesome. Thank you for sharing!
The improvements are clearly visible in the data logging.
Is this running E85?
Yes, full e85, but the tune is set for e75 due to quality of pump ethanol not always at 85%
What load are you sustaining during those logs? Curious how much air you are needing to fuel.
Quote from: Admin on December 15, 2020, 01:26:45 PM
What load are you sustaining during those logs? Curious how much air you are needing to fuel.
Apologies, just getting to this. So here's the logs from the same runs.
Gray = RPM
Purple = Load
Without BAP:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhNTBOBSzLX5onkUawoX-5JqYVq5quCiD8COltXnlccK6fCwIGuYuQF0dffpDJ6trCtCchQlF37kK86C-V7iLWnmq7zMJf1INf93S2w_bX74yr7NWdXV7xwxI008aBqO87OIkwnOLkfhxop7I_0RXdlCT3v8is9KnHzQ04PMlr3tvpmb8hBIJM4nnz3dMPRTM?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (no tune revision):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mIwjKE2AEUdm9SJRO7e_LlRwejR-bw4aIGIJ7JulcE4_-XHm4pJBCPqgO_M_hwb530N8fr-nmtPndxuMHRdOTdQay6rqOFdTlmhT4Q0l0JthQ4owIup3fmBToKrb-Y_p11Pkrn3zOQ9o7svaIQ-j8684GORQiKnC80CEu6wspPjLyF7Yb1QRbmGT7zblnPjqQ?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
With BAP (with tune revision):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXBFO4jstbcgNzBNWUhH_XDkrgysv5GjDccWB1mj3uS2U8CJp8THoNthgjABxbFg38GKCff2QhWKOkC0ZOqrp4gtsdWrX_23CvDUXV3G9dAYyn2ZdqYQSVR3HojRp6Q-rh9YrTxR23EF9bp41Ai8qUhWTyz3iTgkwBoGK0jhPEORBwwBmXJ1dh1yXgVJnqJna?width=1024&height=397&cropmode=none)
I don't like the last datalog I did as I was fighting wheel spin and you can see it with he way the RPM jumps a bit. I can honestly tell it's got more power, I am having some traction problems now. I really need better tires....
Access The PCM And/Or Wiper Motor
In case anybody wants to access the PCM and/or the wiper motor. It's actually pretty easy and accessible.
First thing to do is remove the wiper blades. At the base of the blades are bolt covers. They just snap onto 3 sides of the six-sided nut. Just get a flat-tip screwdriver and pop them straight up:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhXgYXalT4A3dKzz22BRcZfYOFwSLVdDRbGoeQ7lW_wl9SNx1hbFM-p-b-dTjqWYR5XTreYhQxj_ZiAbBxI2My9E5K_0L18wyMz8Wj7qRm7ASDvo8vjbxY9HvF7nuiWcXw4C2-QeH_MlLHzVJYN4pU3GzYJ_qQGlHtNQBaonqlCCcpSnfrk04sSCESF9CG9fi?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Once those are off, you'll have to remove the nuts off the wiper arm studs. Once those are removed...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muE9_jmPt3Y8fSEauNI6WXS2b830Xh6g2KI2N6grN2O-LBqQ8Dji2_zaHHDQQ3WLa3yhak8uWEjDWoBgHZqH6zg3-Vjj-hzAPH8qptFvv_OSCi9ORHRI3VJcZDLkVgBxGHPW3FOIm6QW3RHngkK3N8RM-vu4MCwHJSETVCq5JSeq_qwL_wFrSHhtgRInN7Bre?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
They likely will be pressed on there pretty good. Flip the wipers up to give you some ability to wiggle the base. It's possible to remove them by hand, but easier if you use a tool to pull them off, usually comes in a nice puller set like this::
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mN4chbn5QS95eKrhsA4kxmZ56NlYBLwIn7LG2gHvSdmvP-ELFRF7ws8o_Wwz1GstO5YvQqDTdsMdpNDR14YNGjA-G6WYhS-ptv8kVxxBJwiFUBS1tSjkCbcnDXS2BlAgGT_tMVAWl6lJYEg5m1SUVwHexRAykDNFdMGZ8SLuRX664trY0k4zV5W-DCDmcr1yP?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Here it is, ready to pull:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mUAFuWeaDogQNIarJMU_Qzzwi9XvBMxbVr1KklhGxaRxvJvC2wEQiKPHfFFx8oqThRGiwlHiWE_xbMCLmpcNGDfih3SfsgJvW5I0ky-7BO5t2crdeRHaOJIHvUlsN8AUWpEzHXaOEZfGWahemBhFbHWv2Y9cfZMesI7yX4x467i1sB-L8-RfTewO_qnw2Pqcv?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
They pop off easily, usually with a loud "pop" sound, so just be ready for it. Once those are off it's time to remove the upper cowl piece. There are 6 plastic clips that need to be removed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2fAVeZwrp0zYL3O_h_mpQ7auqpC04CVLydizj2iirgvQVKWsJHqp-PF3OPzY5FCpoUNPCW8AkdG2POCmptysj2YqKBn1E-CmSn5q9K3GgXywfGqc_kOnf9DxzwoaEw5GPwd2fbAxwo5M6FRp03EXD8qjcysKGYB5ESAh6CCD8LANI3EG488vouLgfzGBF0pr?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Just use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the center section of the clips. Sometimes they just spin without coming up. Just use your other hand to pinch the outer portion from underneath. It's also clipped into slots on the bottom of the windshield. Just pull the cowl directly up with some force and they pop out.
Here it is removed and showing the lower cowl:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9-eAiR-Uib4Rlq-Q8m9_zNwh940qT4sXY0fsUzyc0rGuAaRxO1DWlNlqDxlvvQy8uwu3ep80g7gQpV0muGlbk_J0NBdPX9AM5gQc2HnCzsU7Of4gar24sgYCQHK0ikK8PjBq5WqBKHMoxZf-XRBcn6bXMPUye7IIxI6NVVGDr60P6qYEYZdThuJ1GCJm6p38?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
To remove the lower cowl, you'll need to slide out to metal clips on either end of it, where it sits on the metal frame:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mXWm-jyz5aYuSNxGWa3H062I8pgThP0F7oSmbcl-v8E9KeKskQ1GLDhD6saR1Bg09KAR_oo92LJsLYqiQHS31PH6eZ2BPHMxotnzfsR-7u9r6Xv_E-AQ8CUVi6TP_1kBXAM4xXN9LQ1tnKkv_-ZDqR_0PY1snvJaeHCsPfyj0FjnbWqmkul4zaGCBlNihSFj_?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
They are in there with some "bite". I used this tool to pull them straight back towards you::
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mOJ2_1O8jHkUR3SZrLQGX1wSicaUyDojftZ3vB3R_VeDVnm6_vNa-jNSxE48O5kx86MEr9LR6iSm9fK49aAs4gQZPjJVRW1Z5a6OPFP04_hohE9jOEF6YWU3Wj6_s7tfv8HcwxsXPYzAk4jl-N5aJ3JlbyNtXFrI_kOKz7SSghvXIK9MWvvOdicbtQB2A8E1C?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Then there are 2 white clips more toward the center of the cowl, same place where the cowl meets the frame:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJiQbYd2oE9RzKusANMp2OI8tK2J4icCrs0Hmj41FCz6XfSC9FSswrZHJ2u9_zhIjmNPY-GONsHXdA_wAcepsaOTjiGk98uQMj6IniJpQkWLhPVI7FH1LpnFt3XL3FuQEt8zrPh3ne_WZclAZifOjUgB24G42gTLseRT4egMI4nVgw-3HxNjNMxQ2CkLyKkDp?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
These just need to be popped up. It may tend to fall back into the hole, so you can remove them if you'd like by pulling it straight out. Don't loose them, LOL. Here is what it looks like when it's off the car:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mgXLJYn0LabRoUz8mDwxO3gWanxBp5CYf9SGsTcIpNzqIiYj8S2AM-8ryF10JXC3RD8Vvls73cQ6TRN424g1fXyxkpmWsmjQf8EsVyJTMypwCQXJjSWdGkz25X62L3jzpTj-jxZcE9Iyd5wysd3n3I6_sMWflnDnU2z7FiH6xaH5EiuKlMeRcqcMxt0ZSdvPr?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Last thing to do before it will freely come out is, open the clips that hold the washer fluid line and pull the hose out. A small flat-tip screwdriver will open the clips, no need to remove them from the cowl:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8z9525su6DXKdB4_b3KF6v1QX61oT-pSAC8H_4QCMUDEsrywhD3szsvw8Q39EgP8Q_vai8ARzyZEMOlHlKC4XU7SXatziyfjKv9yzuk_z0wrIPdW3tKdqqzs-zjyy7tKZWPXuikSSVRzwATF0aYRn9JwWe5fe-yuM-ryJ_O-Cf4OA4rcuXYOZRA_ZyqgjorM?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
And now you have access to both the PCM and the wiper motor, whichever component you are working on.
WIPER MOTOR
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfSnzDMksFgfOFmwpokse_sCSZ7pKx_Aejj-cFJIKoTiYUDpiP-DZii7PufZ4JZVCVs6P-RAUHyLmFsQuN-8ZdLZJl2oMGzg_xM07-bTQjD3Natrefz1G9jRq1g_HAA1nLG6WDTXp1gbdd04wxkKppmFXK4C9WMxzGrbhtii8Ibz7gpJxV2PXwXpk64siIY7g?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Pretty easy,actually. Just disconnect the connector for the motor:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFwsPgCMkRQDSEUjGeapqb6NoUUApFtyT4t8YYlg6CIIzftby6Ws1LWNnC3qwZwMSMMvKlo6P2bt-Y7O0UK4ezaX8jt76kGr1s6H53UANgRpNd0ItuJ6f0UP2e6DmyasW2itjlZq5rs0ftBq2kkzpwgfsZ9js0TGZcGKaWo1z8-_-BZvoi65cvqR9jBZArOae?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Then remove these two bolts:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mkKwPqS-lIFy2N-DfEox5NzyHFwDjjhnDBPZUxNaLon_dMLETjkrnTIezEEpX7k1ctoSt4CEKZHMqOp9wNMoXPIM384Dj-vErv8f8Ay6peE-38y_C_e3HH36LIaLlAFxg54o__g7mJIqIM96C797RytA0bf5DUhDlGvjShpI_t9kq6j17kuHtiOoAX_-Kq8CL?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
And here it is out of the car:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mMITIACewMR6DEsijxsrlTzoM47_c4A45alvgIMmPl1obwjUwUMgCG9uLZW3l98Ay9W5MOrLMsvxC41gufzI44aGhlQlH0bMplocr1MFE5p9j9JPe__GKH6OMtiiymkugqVPjcqkgPNi_PlRmrTAHr99IvJg2S0GAWXA9q1eABqZ9LW_QLi0kQ25cyUGHYt3s?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m7sjQwEjoHMwxn93uu9ZrS5WmpwRpEsHf5ZBHFAu0D0ccN3_m4IJJDhfXRLfqY4xa9Y8aUdKjool_MV8j9PukbrkdXfxOxM7nwhDKGrRhvz9zkqMpssIlZFemroN4eVbE_j86eX4Ez4yNVmanJpC6aG-V0zVFCwOL-hsx98Z_A85NLoDnjjIIAIw3o1HNVfy-?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
PCM
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZBHDs04B6BENfLaTfBpG6TNXLMJhjbSK_35EKFYaOqr1fOa971Oy1MHCcDxj0n12WxgDoLP1qgd7ZdSn3XYLwWImqaBiFkLdVmr-vKN1R8kSR2OPeOhoCCvj4VQDH3ZB0yXcLbnWKsA5NEOiA-03yvRs78ODlSaJQkIvElxfGQI9A8lf-EH5HEsQp4n66Yw4?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Also very easy, just undo both the main connectors. Do this carefully by lifting the hold-down/lock handle:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzP6o_CYx-mLU1lMHz_auW7YT8PN-V3Tl-DGuND6rPar5AMeoDLKsL689z29gxcWwcfXVqgu4rn14fJ2f-0ssj8oUe9Mty81Dl6lvoJ2RnqEvmxtgRQXNefnYlF9nYMhBTzoQqwWK_OJLAm17eoQQf0ms7V1SJUGxXOqxViA4KsgHwMc-K3L59cMM2FcPiJHB?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
Then remove these two nuts:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m6LdoBGf9USDu6Veeu468ogTwrkxJ1daDoWl6fQqyInW_ZfLEfcxIx26yxFWb5U9koGGVG81yJjrm1P-4Vt0Itf0w4c9m6YjyRblOIb79xEHGgMZrRUglP_TaCW61OdxSoqDN3URjQ-D0xZiniCQqf4lUNIUwty7c_-kEkOKKlJsjkFY1nhhfU9KG3U8SXdog?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
And pull the assembly out. Here it is free of the car:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4my6-qQpsUDmRSJjj5mV46o5lwKT9yt6QLn7GLURtjihTYekSXxNgB4vQbb0JhLaUPOpFF20K5ANrDKDBZhr80_jLMEWvdbKoQL-hnioqHPWD0W16lfTRzhuJspQVzORpvZ9QUP5VVebEzB4zneqJIW7ZHJpQcP4zQc1Gk4JEK0J01kjPPN_y4uPuT4yFhCKOp?width=498&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And that's it! Assembly is reverse.
why are you pulling the PCM?
Quote from: Admin on December 30, 2020, 09:35:48 AM
why are you pulling the PCM?
Been procrastinating on finalizing my methanol kit install. Last few steps involve tapping into the PCM. Finally getting around to it, LOL.
Quote from: Ecoboost_xsport on December 30, 2020, 09:45:40 AM
Quote from: Admin on December 30, 2020, 09:35:48 AM
why are you pulling the PCM?
Been procrastinating on finalizing my methanol kit install. Last few steps involve tapping into the PCM. Finally getting around to it, LOL.
So which kit is requiring you to tap directly into the PCM? I am unaware of one, unless you are tapping into the MAP sensor at the PCM vs the sensor?
Quote from: Admin on December 30, 2020, 10:21:33 AM
Quote from: Ecoboost_xsport on December 30, 2020, 09:45:40 AM
Quote from: Admin on December 30, 2020, 09:35:48 AM
why are you pulling the PCM?
Been procrastinating on finalizing my methanol kit install. Last few steps involve tapping into the PCM. Finally getting around to it, LOL.
So which kit is requiring you to tap directly into the PCM? I am unaware of one, unless you are tapping into the MAP sensor at the PCM vs the sensor?
Aquamist....miles ahead in the WMI game...true PWM injection, not PPS like 99% of the other kits that still live in the WMI stone age. Those 99% of the kits are basically just Alky Control kits. AEM does some good stuff, but still uses PPS to regulate injection, no bueno. Don't get me wrong...they "work", just Aquamist is the cats meow in the WMI scene.
Referencing IDC. Way more accurate depiction of what the engine load is vs simply using boost as a reference.
I'm a WMI snob, so I can go down the rabbit hole here, but don't want to bore you LOL.
Those interested in some background on the Aquamist technology, how they utilize PWM, and the merits of it over a PPS system:
Where PWM really shines is at low/moderate flow and ramp-up/down. It's really about atomization. The atomization of the methanol at low flow using PWM is more accuarte. Just some good resources for those of you who might be interested in finding out more about PWM and PPS systems and how Aquamist compares:
A very good, in-depth long read on PWM systems. Specifically check out the section on the proportional valves controlling flow (as most PPS systems use) and the fast-acting valves PWM systems use and how atomization at different duty cycles is affected:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1413320 (https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1413320)
Some videos making comparisons:
http://s1013.photobucket.com/user/Aquamist-videos/media/PWM-V.mp4.html (http://s1013.photobucket.com/user/Aquamist-videos/media/PWM-V.mp4.html)
http://s1013.photobucket.com/user/Aquamist-videos/media/PPS-S.mp4.html (http://s1013.photobucket.com/user/Aquamist-videos/media/PPS-S.mp4.html)
PWM on the left, PPS on the right. Notice when flows stops, the PPS nozzle has to ramp down and even "dribbles" a bit. The PWM is "on/off", better control.
https://youtu.be/c0FYGkMX1rg
Again, PWM on the left, PPS on the right. Check out the comparison when they switch quickly.
https://youtu.be/KZRI7WZHggQ
https://youtu.be/8aoqhxQMtqA
2 PWM nozzles switching back and forth:
https://youtu.be/xvSNmn6A64M
It looks intimidating at first, but if you're okay with wiring, its actually pretty simple of an installation. A lot of folks have never heard of Aquamist and I've spoken with the owner about this. He's got zero online presence and their kits are sold by word of mouth, which speaks volumes to me. Especially considering they've been in business for so long. You find their kits on a lot of WRC cars, and those things take a beating, LOL.
This is roughly what a typical system consists of:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msGgFYBBuWQQwyo5AGD9a-jjVzc--5pUNInoQPk8Cvj3JBj_96qXU-_OsU-CHNm1hU6m_FGoHVt_lQ6ONmVgLJLA-ighrI6sxbRWlO7OnIi3smGsf3mR5_4Vt2Sw4dWaiKSwYpImU-d_3ny1RRd46a0g7Pjzp7pf2mD3-gQQjRmO-yi49nX0e0u_n2TI24Iv9?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
wow!! Thats a lot of parts! Can't wait to see how it all comes together!
Laptop Mount
OK, this was a project that came about last minute and spur of the moment. I frequently datalog with my SCT (https://www.sctflash.com/products/sct-category-tuners/sctlwtsp) and use the laptop to accomplish this. Typically, I just put it in the passenger seat and do what I need to from that angle. It always bothered me as I would have to turn my head very far away from the road as I start and stop the logging and it was typically very awkward. This wasn't really too big of a deal and I normally just dealt with it.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mipzlvLQy4-IRlvBKfuAxHRWRwXBwYMa7VxbTsDZIYcbQ210mMZ1tmANhQIF3MjH_xslWFWegGDOT7n0aVNCwokhZ4Xtqi1lX_SZkCg8Q6TxKLvshHje6TocvzWmtFsHnoe2hqCZCS2g2r361KImL-W013ZopYq3cCDnm7IsfoQ1cOF8oUa_QIrT12howWXqV?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Well, fast forward to one of my datalogging attempts where I was also testing out my Dragy (https://dragymotorsports.com/) device and doing a 60-0 braking test. That didn't go over too well because as soon as I hit the brakes, I wasn't prepared for the laptop to fly forwards into the floorboard at full speed. Well, it pretty much destroyed the laptop, cracking the screen, keys broken off and my data cord ripped out to the wire. Needless to say, I was pretty upset.
Luckily I was in the process of moving everything over to a new laptop anyway as that broken laptop was my old one. So, not wanting to break my new laptop, I decided to take advantage of the fact that the Ford Explorer is also used as a police vehicle, with many options to mount police communications gear available on the market, to include laptop mounts.
So after doing some research, I decided to go with the RAM Mount (https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-VB-187-SW1). It's inexpensive, well made, has a good reputation and also made in the USA...
So here's the passenger floorboard before installation:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m2eBIBzIMX6-Na3Z_VhDk0d4XfAop9dBddhojdFt_x9vFnjraiW2tJjNb6CC4PsT5nHroi2X8xgtt7uXTajiBTvzDdVSoROiQXTO1nKe-1x0yTRIZ3lE8Z5As753jclaah9U3LlsDbnm32CbF2GDeQgTtP2kAzep9TWX9KMqBbTnka4ZJZdLtQTTX0zCKZNgr?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Pop off these 2 covers with a flat-tip screwdriver:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mzker5Ye-P0m_f-KXn7uDUfQLCS1hAXUDUBHUIkm495QHxZhkcaDVbJmZz9YeB6Ou2t0X5xcpYH-AgiVxAeSgiOYEtl9ZwDFgM5-KfHr4j-Jj8EphPuq3_jgtuMD2DL9LPW-l2aGV8J7IYvcmGKCF78Q47KeGL80-KFSFhXQ85MMeths33SDFcUXFRRL9N4F9?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
You'll expose the front mounting bolts. And it's easier to make room if you remove the T-20 Torx screws, but it isn't necessary:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mN3rEP0HMm48f_kmn8kU_crQvxS8kxFEgZxV-syIIwSMI5dPrtqUs0PQ-MbMBqesuHK3uh4wB0hKAVf_3F2JwMZR_zLiLxwLcdEA_ZvZrO4lXEM2SR3y4WnC4XiWwsbBnw1lIaBn60bfOgNOYr-7b3IASTttJr0EY8BLUeh1IDWCQ2lzmK4p0n7rqkTbykwnj?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After having assembled the base...
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mq1eXaccKioe2Y3i6Ypctv-lZ4jEViL0otRQcHp-8TD6IU28j00alLGXGeUf61YQMDnZ_0uqaOwSf8ciJRv6XHLjKqcGU11K8kJbNlCWW-SjsYauEyUV7wmqdjw9xgKyh7FTnCbScDVnMce2nSJvx-3_MyhNHZDk-6yvkMMGILWyrZ_q-GRgciL0fM-26PwZT?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
...you will need to loosen the 13mm front seat bolts. You won't need to take them out, but will need to back them out pretty much the entire way, right before they come out. Once they are loose, you can slide the base bracket
between the floor pan and the seat mounting bracket. The outside one is easy, but the one closest to the center console may need to be pried up and hammered in with a soft hammer or dead-blow.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mllILSl2IEVJRFax0LXpe13TXobvsOpjEIRD2auhTtRzajrBr6qvSRsSFpkXSV876OeN_a_VQByxZ6ROnE0kS5hk-tNtGIx3UxPMjYm5tBITU1LRYCI-H8JFQkEr5Jk7ApUFfkkIK7OwDy7YZcEeoBT1bFzl85vUyF8EnFc-Jw6lPdvJWN2BfPuEHUpWyDatb?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Once it's in all the way, you will re-torque the bolts to 35ft-lb as specified by Ford.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m9-7TtBPJ10RHLac8RAl1OXqoQ8QuTd7fZgZbGHm0FsgOe_SO5021h8zI4vUPC-W8C0qloXveh3SIoQSP-d66kvl4so0KBhbKSaHj_zuP87qeftqm2B-kHC05E1jNlPJ4ECu-YO7w5UXCdLwoFGAq-16Eg4mj19WLrwPbXSSeKwtPkh2p3UWH60ePzUudHR1R?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Here is the base installed:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mtJuiaJyQcZgNBSr8yM1uBnlRkT3_arwVuzf-MNcjuSReqReksrOGlXk8WmkyOpRrYLydRvqvWu0kV2XdTWk8gaKSM0HeO7c97V2kNGvz6BHvGOzp_gErfhgTKkWaHutFO512OLOKaldWhQMXCsXjM3oSURSAEHkTIoHC9XojRQbekUyNbyj2HnZCwbL4tRnZ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
This is how I will drive 95% of the time as it allows full range of motion for the passenger seat, full access to the glove box and generally not in the way of anything.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mwJ6XZB-nbVrL54kD1Phmv22sYrbDBYY5TF-2UOyC3aIrjeTdwzZZ6Zbevhhn87IKDNKsSun5bUXpYgMc_IUsh8AVY1kM3b822xh3P5hfY5P9wbCBfN5Lvg2vivrL-zAgSkrt7h8PWpsbEaQqelxYWNI4r1zuev8vnAPxfP0s8KfHRBnxQfgh2JISJQmxl1hO?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muq_S2gP_StZTLhvZizEIPgwLDFwhmk9-l0NEGVBJq1LPGiR_ueQiPu0CiopSyx-6x3-Mj9q2-JZh-DDIV8lFcjmt95DveML69hi19qlRtQS3B4dFsUGHfFvF_96iMkr4BD4Xh74V74NbdGUBVk3r7ffjSscoGAYzQthS9ycFh5Y-R3ikOkduOUX4YbnMfx4u?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After assembling the remainder of the components, here is the mount installed as intended:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4miA6YhBKmPH0T4CSjJyKtmgbqZmG2dpZ6qQ1U_ahx16EkK9PL-G-3rH8fXPz_gZEIuC2gyE_FbtolrlD82h43cEuPHDx55TF2NYmVErVR6fbl6fSn-ewu13uMeHqIsPJ_K_Y3KZhXusgap4RjA0G_1FFFIGdcaRKsFs-JF6Q0d7nXOKFS7YyStuEI4l_sCUg6?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
And finally, I love the easier access and control of the laptop:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m_cZIxeSGYddmUeP78b-3-Z1rd48qsNRUHVcArvKNhhwZ68k3jAHxuEgUkbX_Y-Ls48M8Ig-hekmDnqwDwnX3cDud1V6hAvywUTQnslf6d0fyUYC8uV-JK4mtX92GrG3DFSmhvct2_4EIKUPdunBCfVB422d1Q94mk_nBjgvJYA8Kt3eGOnsVb-rNnUwxD6We?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As mentioned, I won't typically drive with it, but when I do, it's very surprisingly sturdy with large tightening knobs and heavy steel brackets:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mZvwP0V4UTNiJK7LPzhxTugVRt844guCZSG0r_d8a3PJlSJluTmn01IM_YPg7DxpnaV_CRE0Yt7A9LZq6gNEckla47r3YhcWk8yblNLxT84D3uQpE2I1FzHwxbSi-ogUMwYXG5i3ippizTzT_5Rk06eJhUiieu9Q29MQJtdgh2uu3m3ZPfpQSWM2OLmEucUQs?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It does shake a bit while driving down the road after hitting bumps. Not much but it would likely get on my nerves if I was driving with it full time. Luckily, I'm not. If I were looking for a full time laptop mount, there are more expensive options such as the Havis Standard (https://www.havis.com/products/PKG_BASE_VMT_HDM_INUT_13_19-41751-82.html) or Havis Premium (https://www.havis.com/products/PKG_BASE_VMT_HDM_W_SHRTHNDL_INUT_13_19-125109-82.html) mounts as well as an option from Gamber-Johnson (https://www.gamberjohnson.com/products/2013-2019-ford-police-interceptorr-sedanutility-pedestal-system-kit). I'm sure there are a few more.
One of the things I like about the RAM mount is that it doesn't interfere with removal of the WeatherTech (https://www.weathertech.com/ford/2015/explorer/floorliner-digitalfit/2nd-row-explorer/bucket-seating-with-center-console/) floor mats.
Anyway, one of those mods that make life a bit easier, but not 100% necessary.
I guess I'll go ahead and ask the obvious question...
what was your 60-0 time and distance?
Quote from: ridered74 on January 17, 2021, 11:33:14 AM
I guess I'll go ahead and ask the obvious question...
what was your 60-0 time and distance?
LOL, good question..
I let off the brakes as soon as the laptop flew forward, which happened the instant I hit them, so wasn't a good test...didn't even look at the results.
I'll revisit this when I get it back on the road...have a few other simultaneous projects ongoing.
Quote from: Ecoboost_xsport on January 17, 2021, 12:56:20 PM
Quote from: ridered74 on January 17, 2021, 11:33:14 AM
I guess I'll go ahead and ask the obvious question...
what was your 60-0 time and distance?
LOL, good question..
I let off the brakes as soon as the laptop flew forward, which happened the instant I hit them, so wasn't a good test...didn't even look at the results.
I'll revisit this when I get it back on the road...have a few other simultaneous projects ongoing.
I know the feeling although with mine it was the dragy that went flying. I forget where I had it, but it was not a great location for doing a 60-0 test. Made the deceleration line look pretty funky.
Hood Vent/Heat Extractor Installation
Something I've wanted to address was lowering engine bay and IA temps. Getting cooler air is a good place to start when tackling high IAT and IAT2 temps.
This was going to be done in 2 stages. 1st, remove built-up heat within the bay and 2nd, to feed the intake system with true outside air. Although I have the AirAid CAI system, you can see how that open filter within the bay ingests all the hot air.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4msnMnwCd6Gvi5J2vP0eWifLu5bMlLdiQSegyStL7QPeUy7UlkSs87sHlhRfiEI_od0CET0eVbEs8Oymrvbj0yFiWd_LxPPiSEu-vhSSdTd9-YEiL33JTppGeZJ3Xm3vsEzT34fmZFAgJLAbb3oXjD8YmdKMd2lsPqoxBqnPckDmFe97m5CoUOxLRw5bufxHC9?width=1024&height=498&cropmode=none)
The OEM box with a K&N filter would likely function better as there is an inlet behind the grille and the box is sealed from the bay. However, I'm intent on retaining the AirAid filter, but will address this part of the issue later...stay tuned.
While researching, I started out looking at aftermarket hoods. This would be the simplest solution. But, the only hood worth entertaining was by Amerihood (https://amerihood.com/ford/explorer/ford-explorer-2011-2015-type-s-style-functional-ram-air-hood.html). It's got a trick, functional ram scoop, but no heat extraction provision. The other issue with it was weight. It's fiberglass and would exceed the weight of the OEM aluminum one. I don't have an exact weight of the Amerihood, but the OEM one weighs only ~19lbs (the image shows ~21lbs, but I weighed it with the aftermarket hood shocks, which weigh ~1lb each):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mPphEhG1OWUZDoSn7lQ6uc71dGPr9ZTV40NSFSbsoP-zA0D6mB5yRnKPj380WwXk4wVrQVNKXAnn9QEAcJQa-dRsjeJr7-QzzjI-FNBMn54FZalzDirw7mhEtykm8awY1oMpmbw0ZApUnnyCgmAV_5q92urVlktSR4EqIh536lO-iUYaYG3QNMcI7IlJeF7Fu?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
You're not getting lighter than that, except for carbon fiber. I contacted Amerihood to see if they offer one in CF, but sadly, no. So, I began to investigate vent inserts, which would require modifying my existing hood. Not ideal, but it's what I was left with.
I think it's important to talk a bit about the dynamics of airflow across a hood for a moment in order to understand why I chose the one I did. There are low & high-pressure areas on the front of any vehicle. High-pressure areas being the very front, the base of the windshield and most any other area that is vertical to airflow. It's behind these high-pressure areas that low-pressure areas develop. It's a common misconception that raising the rear of the hood with washers will allow more airflow, but it's actually quite the opposite. If anything, you will draw air INTO the rear of the bay and not let airflow OUT because of the dynamics there. It's one of the reasons why the inlet for your cabin air is right there...as that area draws air IN.
As I need some sort of high-pressure area then an immediate low-pressure one, I looked for what some call a "waterfall" vent. Raised lip in the front with a quick drop off right behind it. I believe this design will draw more air out than a traditional louver style vent commonly seen.
I was limited by the contours of the hood, so it was slim pickings. I wanted the GT500 hood vent, but those contours would not have allowed it. I found a place called Faircloth Composites (http://www.fairclothcomposites.com) that makes CF pieces for mostly the corvette market and saw he had 2 style waterfall vents, small & large. The small seemed like it would be a perfect fit.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mw9a2qEOWyNn-NNSFMhQ8Vvs2Hmou41nklquqpzoTtVFCe2mMEeiV6OpoprnQUxlAKjXBUTSIV8QybUXHMqkeeoRcXOQdIPziW7hYeJL8yvsdt1AsJ8QlY2iYUQyuN_r2f7uPFoRWfW7C4U7eeWdOwvc4_ljtblyc0iJjTeLljiGTXO2N6ij7PjbPOE11pV-I?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mFfkWqjAr1OfqMSi6IyF_cSDrdvl8GDJ_wrKW0rVVj2mr3oOH7kU9qtsyW6PB2E_1W9igIyRp5znX18KFI4mng2tiYUiOydZxeutkFOZ4uokz8gCgXcW-P8swr1cUkVMz8SF2HfsZUamZ2JoPsf9C_JcAEKP1Qq8wAtamu8MMwGgoSKR_rxeVopWs2iPE2Pcs?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mYiEpAqVh2nnEGU_dHnriLL9TebNkj8ybpopAAbf5mYa2GsZGT_xIK7ZzQ5WsLd3UrLgCe6AooGNr1z-vTCjxkSIY9BL7Soku1r-JydQ1Z-jeYVJOhepBEsdVdNhTOw2vFo6UTxIKr00kC-gsPMXHgWCqSFHC3W5DUmEkJQ8DvG2rmwmOSR0tLOxs1dc71djF?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
As I wanted to measure twice and cut only once, I started by figuring my available space. The underside and between the contours:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mH4KOgo2AP6iG0LTXz7JqCCjbWuMg5sKpxH_da9_h2OrzIWvMCi7iknG7DCCem7zlE1R79BLufE0Wt1a-ttiUc_9K8Hm3wL6KfEegljhjtO-QYom5MnMVwxRzvnBOTn1FMdiNVaPAvdWa747UrGlWzuEW2b6Mz1BUjgDvtTOtfN_YY_Pw_3HGJbwIER0gWLxH?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mhIopG6AbE8b-jn_m13YSMrKKSGLqxXwMtyNwLhNFWjifMuV8gKaOeTe_snLOTZfHoA4YEg7ekxpI0DEEY4YcBxe88vq5DdCG_zhI2_KZrHOx2jNwTLlvKbokvYMZ_-H2g4rw9QqUvjXqoTSzHRTIjYsyTNbKuta5FHFnr1E65i4WTL4dPIfIRflcQGXlx3z-?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
It would be close, and I figured I'd have to trim some of the sides. Once space was figured, I transcribed the template onto the hood:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mmtxBdf_Np73ROdXqVwLbjjGcio5KHzyUJEbA_nXtVCA0c1Girq7DxjrpR9UbdPBZddkIocD9luhtbaWLOeg9RkMpvaqdfLsi4ZcBPwqAzVNgStw2iBY6Hnfueu6RvH0QUhn4xpcehGW1huRexgwTnqz-qWENvOvV3Tv8iDwDVDy1nTlv6KP8L42GWbvRvhOD?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Arts and crafts time!
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mLWx9Zr-SJZwgx5L1k4g-Sn1PtCssExfqEKksP-RnoCu3iCltCA8BDOHBYB0943VIwHI9dTSn_UUbCMgdP2B7ntVEwWq-GxL_VVzBOrBa1EUVL8SViWNHHOhEgM21FtacEcSNdW1kpWwtjXtKEtxOzzvIvFd_HMmYSNgZ1UJ3P3uuTnBex1VkuJICOacn_Z5i?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muBl-7_TvK2lsICnCS8MmaTyVxsze_BdC67BC1qYov3XULkDQFIh0DOZCpRJeRQ8_e4omY3PwZQeCW84_MT6UOWSI9IM0TyefqivUTs4_9uw6hAy6qA8xaS8iTmfukfftcUFwHqogawzc-Cy7YEB_GooQyY3AHJpZ5_zA-AYWvjVyH3Z599_KVN6VpXc_U8Rz?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
An intro vid made to describe some of the concepts I covered above:
https://youtu.be/3BoIRCj0Dso (https://youtu.be/3BoIRCj0Dso)
Then it was time to cut! It may not seem like it in the following vid, but it took me awhile to get the nerve to cut into a perfectly good hood. I cried, whimpered, said a few prayers and even second guessed myself...but then, just went for it!
https://youtu.be/nMtA4bqwQNg (https://youtu.be/nMtA4bqwQNg)
Here's the piece I cut, did a pretty good job of centering this in the hood:
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mfPEY6vz2GDz1ZqWeXacy482-2lqiBusthEBS2efYUL7gocoJvO9H8i2VcY6pR2JxwbqyRKboteCx_ns46G5NvjuQSyEynIHIu87y2XiSvDEoB7nMyLD7GkgInAfnCtU7d5RBF-ISCB0bDx2rD8UcHFMOllpDVMG_ZTWn3nRqeUjZSLRbd3v6nerZ2cVhCKhA?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
When cutting was done, it was time to get the vent ready for what it would take to secure it.
https://youtu.be/mFaJTOkE-xA (https://youtu.be/mFaJTOkE-xA)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m-rVqYc2slIsMuJ1UDzg9jmqArTyU4hu5XNrf2AOOtgQ0-uo3BASzHLXMtUp_abtJcRlr2oIynTShIGjp6QKzBv23tzImhUQh6ZgZ6uslp1-IzTOtbZkVhS6Fg0Jw5-7bRRqZXYGJ-Lh2N9uLHbUwo9y7W49_8QVwPflj5Ab3zfzwja_hOJA6Yo2_9imw7Uce?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4muxs_dT-HW57qjBs2TYnaIvFJsdb0Or40HeNxB0P_VjIJWaVLeG6n-5Tc3W6YyHxW03IYWy2xoUa0z3lc-kAZfohXvbBIdS6bflt8shqB7UdCt7aNz8oLR4kM_L0rUv23tzRG02G70SQyNmetVTpaW18TDC2jmNGcKBbUJlSZU7rpAGWFQdGkxmFCJRb5uAYp?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
After getting it mocked up, I sent it to be clear-coated (they are sent raw CF and need to be UV protected):
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mL3Z1SS5NlxDLny3usWz7XmdSgcCiAzrz2f55e-jKlPF58CBVg_BAZm07N6PN90VkgeGhn1BIlKHK5zNg9M3H9IGgb6s6hsVxySKfxDnJEpKivHXxe1unveR-7SOfoh2Eb7WIA-ru5_ifZ021934sGOmWtYp-tZFkyuZSx45LR5wJ6roDY-u58pv4UMBlkpLZ?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Credit goes to Absolute Collision out of Sacramento, CA for the outstanding clear coat job!
Finally! Install time!
https://youtu.be/pb4Xs9LJrBM (https://youtu.be/pb4Xs9LJrBM)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m5QIFnaPluNYdp4HMaiA5aBbqEk-dykq7YogryKpiB3b_F0z0K9NmxAazFRCvAq608ducHVGql1CMucWW6KdND1Ks3xEMgp72JdRy4J40jERM6TBvISm1k1Gl13YcgzpT--_Ti7IKvQzOVO9mEr6KJaSE1E9a_y0AJhf0R-CIcY2Oj1knFFMITJLpCjFdHh5o?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
I'm pleased with it. Not the most appealing to look at but will definitely work. I took it out for a few hours to see how heat would build and, although I have no hard data, I can tell it is doing its job big time. After lots of driving, I would come home and prop the hood up and it would be very hot. But I opened the hood and it was barely warm. One piece to the puzzle that is heat management.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4magq8Y-jXrpIZ-eUiu3ePj4XFy9-99AvxzjMN9CTitMvoEhZxhUgSMerBNIZaeE0kDFtAX07sY_3VCW894UgZUe7eYcLx6irxjFHhp1Jhv_64oPl2bA1d_UDppAEaa_HixGppPZMjhcI_jSn_-SOAAoGefMpYMu2m35fRQ5Ky2AkFcFWrrfc88K6PDxvn9of5?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mWHLhCu5zmFq3hNMXjJitJemqIjuqRZeouGQj9uCP29VTzU5XvuyG3743HA6GkJvAvTHH2FjZ88LLzX35QAbPw5bL0958uGyjauTgQI9872KXo9Q6D_jEdh9BdXMntULPxAzOC6cehRTWg3-kdCdkRkiNOyU3baevfcI0xnvg2PFSNWDBCUZ8pq7nAIgJjRjk?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Granted, the real test will come in summer! Bring it on!
For those wondering what it did to the weight, the piece I took off weighed ~1.5lbs and the entire vent setup I installed also weighed ~1.5lbs...so it was a wash.
Very neat! Looks sharp.
I chose to rock the traditional louvers in my OEM hood. My observations were similar to yours in noting the bay was merely "warm" rather than hot
![](https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji91.png)
.
Nice to see your creative ingenuity at play!
![](https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji106.png)
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
How will weather effect it ? Rain Snow etc ?
Quote from: Macgyver on February 11, 2021, 08:51:49 PM
How will weather effect it ? Rain Snow etc ?
Not really a concern for me. I don't live where it rains too much (although I am in a torrential downpour as I type this...how ironic). It's not a daily driver and I am selective about when I drive it. It's garage kept otherwise. As for car washing, it always gets hand washed and it's easy enough to stuff a towel in that crevice when washing.
Keep in mind, there are plenty cars that have vents from the factory. Modern engines are much more resilient to water intrusion than you think. That being said, keeping one dry is, of course, ideal.
And like anything else when modding a car...trade-offs come in different shapes and sizes. This one was worth it for me.
Got it.
Yep I have a project car that only gets driven when it is nice out. So I understand.
Great mod.
So ballsy. Worked out well, though!
OK, I'm going to try something different here...
At times my posts can be long-winded. As such, I have discovered there are limits to what can be in a post on various forums. They are all different. For this one, there isn't one I've found, but there are photo and character limits for other. Well, that can a problem as many of my posts have more than what's allowed on some forums, LOL. That usually prompts me to have to break it up into parts and I just don't like how "tidy" that feels, never did. As I post this stuff across many platforms, making small changes to cater to each one is cumbersome and tedious.
Enter my website. So I've had a website I never really used for a long time. It was always going to be a repository of everything I do: builds, how-tos, links, a small store to sell the little widgets I make from time to time, etc. So I decided to use this a bit more. It's still under construction, but I'm starting out by populating my posts from here into "blog" posts on there. It makes it nice and simple...one place to see an entire project. Plus, it helps for those who are unable to see my photos on here for whatever reason.
Anyway, I'll post up the topic here as usual but provide a link to the particular post on my website. Let me know how the experience goes, if it's cumbersome, too difficult to access or any other issues. If it's just too unpopular, I'll go back to my old method...but would rather not.
Shift Knob Replacement
Personal Blog Link: Shift Knob Replacement @ FTW (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=387)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m8EFXIQ39_2afb07qv3Y81PFykRZi9e6y2Y2t0_v1JBL511nBsAlMpmL4s1nKRukJyhiDQ4W8ETh9mwRA0frxerZvPU1to5qkclBo2xb-fiQEqNHz1tajvIPHtK7fFA5XlQlpCZBKzE7cczPLh5YoFkbYlUkuH7a_W62nBgfFSQyqcWRrOXsGGCOjNLSXdmUb?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Nice.
https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=387
Quote from: SHOdded on March 08, 2021, 05:22:19 AM
Nice.
https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=387 (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=387)
Oh thank you, I didn't realize there was an issue with my link, I should've checked it better, LOL. I did fix it though...
'preciate it!
Nice Knob. Hahahaha
Great mod tho.
New Tires
Been awhile since I posted some goodies! Got a few in the chute for y'all!
Personal Blog Link: New Tires! @ FTW (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=2256)
(https://i.ibb.co/mDGRnrq/New-Tires.jpg)
Damn...Burning Smoke!
Personal Blog Link: Burning Smoke @ FTW (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=2240)
(https://i.ibb.co/Chm1z8F/Smoking.jpg)
Day at the track...set a record
Personal Blog Link: Settin'a Record @ FTW (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=2213)
(https://i.ibb.co/y0yj9p3/Record-01.jpg)
Excellent stuff.
Well, was cranking out a bit of work on my built block yesterday. insulated the lower coolant pipe to match the upper one I did awhile back. This pipe was also ceramic coated by Jet Hot. Took all freaking day to deal with taking that lower pipe out and back in since I had the heads on. Working on this pipe is WAY easier with the heads off, but I missed it at the time of the build. Still, I was determined and got it done!
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Possible game changer component?
There's quite a few weak points on the 6F55-based 3.5L ecoboost platform and for the last few months, I've been noodling through solving a tiny sliver of that long list...the low-pressure fuel pump. I'll be doing an in-depth write up here soon so I won't go into too much eye-glazing detail at the moment.
The intent here is a plug and play (well, sorta lol), PCM-compatible dual in-tank LPFP. No extra regulators, auxiliary controllers, Hobbs switches, etc. This has the potential to crack the ceiling on fuel delivery for extreme e85 applications. As some of you know, the low pressure side can't keep up, even with a DW300c.
When I get the controlling portion nailed down (working with a fueling company to develop a FPDM replacement that can push the dual pumps as well as work 100% with factory PCM). I still don't know 100% if this will work, but all signs point to yes. This is a mod geared towards those shooting for the upper levels of power output. I will keep everyone posted on my progress as well as a build list on how to make this conversion when I've ironed out all the specifics. Thanks and stay tuned!!! Some pics comparing stock module with the dual one.
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mJUFa8MXIgyWiX__dm2X34_BpbwwxPZEmLWA2fwoFIR6Xo-HSeCXZzuEUXbioMjIhz7VuhMlQDGA9gwOAq3Lc1F_Kw4KiurL1FTl9KxgcDNnJ2n-jiP64SGYX_8CKq3XVGjxiHFa0pVnUSDaAVf2RlqHYZl3Uopw4b9tfiOS1Dv64_TnEvVXdwrWLJiRiw-1k?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
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Looked like two cans of beer for a second. LOL
OK, lots of updates to the motor build...
https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=295 (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=295)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4m1VlMiko_hN0yS9H8l2rRMfdH3BMKZY5IoQ8foiXpxR_CmZheJdhlOxZsQnBPOg3h5pDQxkSM89h9oD8T-dTszbfaQj9qjRPubRIfe1TR3wa26HEr2RrcHO87tPJ9byFjuDSceg6fE9KTglVIhH5Re6mbBi-1g_koyzF0Vvj2e6Qxblajf_Gj0nCNoMLW6otv?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none)
Interesting finds with the valve cover switch from 2013 and 2015. I have a 2013 with the aluminum covers. Could I "upgrade" to the plastic covers? I thought they had dual phasers with an extra VCT sensor? 2013 is single phaser. I assume they are lighter and like you mentioned have better PCV design. I mostly just want the black look haha.
Quote from: mguy13sport on May 30, 2021, 01:18:14 PM
Interesting finds with the valve cover switch from 2013 and 2015. I have a 2013 with the aluminum covers. Could I "upgrade" to the plastic covers? I thought they had dual phasers with an extra VCT sensor? 2013 is single phaser. I assume they are lighter and like you mentioned have better PCV design. I mostly just want the black look haha.
No, same single phaser. The dual phaser is on the NA version. I don't really see any value in upgrading except weight. The composite ones are a bit lighter. But I don't think there's enough juice to squeeze to make it a worthwhile change. Just pull off the aluminum covers and powder coat them...
So, haven't been so active lately, but still lots of stuff moving forward...latest write-up...
Aquamist HFS4v3.1 Direct Port Methanol Injection System
https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=3138 (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=3138)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mBmSMIjOAquWbu50s6Ae46z4sfX2NLB01JjX7Hnv3ebP-51yXCeMq053kBsG1og-VW8RW3WC8niI1n7jAgHQNZ1uyYPXW9F9qXVn-tsqT5sHMDnXtKnQAeH4mvMCSYpgSNWkpcn-ZQnFkPd7JmAD3olNTMVZE-X9mXCA5ed_-n5XnSFY9In4qvJdkw2tmbPLI?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none)
Even though I haven't been posting as frequently lately (YouTube content or other social media), I've still been plugging away at this project. Trying to eat this elephant one bite at a time. Here's a bit of an update on where I stand with all my many projects pertaining to the Explorer build...
https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=3422 (https://www.fortheworkshop.com/?p=3422)
(https://dm2301files.storage.live.com/y4mrj5lxc8Cai2ZykhuTAbgPUDykNFvZUnEjkFQjRQ0CrAFgpf7v_VMHOrRCZWokgxBomS7HbqBZvoyXHsxGZd0-fEiRXfbmmNrJ-hzllXFopQdCvFdwKWYUByO7kZFetKDAAIQmqYboMHw8oLeZVndVnj_ei_hM4Ic-4zbTCZh4Ny118Xyqc1_5bGdW1unKHsA?width=1024&height=536&cropmode=none)
Have you been satisfied with the Aquamist system?
Absolutely 100%. Best system on the market, hands down. No way that any other brand can top them. They are leaps and bounds ahead of the game in methanol technology. Does the other stuff work? Sure it "works"...but it's all tech that is still based in the stone ages. Hobbs switches still? Really? 1995 called and they want it back...lol. PWM and INJ-dutycycle/load based injection...way more accurate than simply referencing boost.
Sorry, did I mention I was pleased with Aquamist? lol...