Just finished Patrick's 2011 Flex Ecoboost install, and here is what we found:
The 2011-2014 will not be much different so this guide will help all, but the install will take app. 30-45 minutes if your handy. This syatem entirely reworks the PCV evacuation system as well eliminating the water/oil/unburnt fuel accumulation in the IC as well as trapping the oil and damaging compounds that are part of the blow-by crankcase vapors.
The system now will provide steady evacuation in both non-boost and boost operation unlike the OEM system that only evacuates at idle and part throttle non-boost operation eliminating the reason the crankcase fills with the water and unburnt fuel in the first place.
So, what we found righ away when we removed the throttle body and scoped the intake valves is this issue is just as bad as the F150's, and this vehicle with only 30k miles on it already has substantial intake valve coking, so we recommend he do a seafoam treatment (a manual cleaning is far better). The intake charge pipe was soaked in oil as you can see from the pictures below, and so was the IM and throttle body. (Patrick is strapping it to the AWD dyno right now for some runs as well).
So, here is what we found when removing the throttle body:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0484_zpscf904f40.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0486_zps766c6343.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0485_zps2d8e960e.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0488_zpse8c79bac.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0487_zpsbac5a9ca.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0489_zps48f5bd70.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0490_zpsf1730f8d.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0492_zpsf53a0939.jpg)
We could dump oil right out of some of it.
We then snaked the boroscope into the front most ports we could access through the IM snout, and after several attempts where the lens got oil covered, we were able to see the valves. Here are a couple of pictures of the boroscope screen showing, but it is not a real clear picture:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1001/DSCN0491_zps797b2352.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0491_zps22315e4d.jpg)
To return the engine to it's efficiency it first had, a manual cleaning is really needed but an upper induction cleaning will help.
As I don't know how many photos per post fit, I will start a second post with the install procedure.
Catch can install: (http://shop.ecoboostpowerparts.com/RX-Catch-Can-w-Dual-Check-Valve-Regular-or-Monster-sized-RXCatchCan.htm)
Do not order Monster option, it will not fit!
Breather option is not required on the catch can for daily drivers
And now onto the install. The Flex is only different from the F150 by the engine being a longitudinal configuration, so fitment of the can for mounting was a bit more difficult, but we found a pretty ideal spot and draining will be through a drain hose that protrudes out the bottom so it can be accessed easily during oil changes, or simply by placing a cup under it and opening the 1/4 turn ball valve drain.
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0509_zps46532560.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0509_zps46532560.jpg)
So to begin with, we remove the engine cover, and locate the tubes we will be removing.
The tube from the rear most cam cover that has a integrated checkvalve from the factory runs to the barb on the intake manifold snout right behind the TB:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0496_zps74279eca.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0496_zps74279eca.jpg)
Remove the tube and using a razor blade, carefully slit the hard plastic tube at the OEM barb so it will split and allow removal:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0498_zps3c1fca7c.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0498_zps3c1fca7c.jpg)
You can then use the included 5/8" short tube to attache the reducer bars to the OEM fitting so it snaps right back on:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0499_zpsd323329d.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0499_zpsd323329d.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0505_zps1e3e4d45.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0505_zps1e3e4d45.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0507_zps377e0ca3.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0507_zps377e0ca3.jpg)
Do the same with the front cam cover cleanside line:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0493_zps97833369.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0493_zps97833369.jpg)
Now we mount the can itself. Note the bracket is 2 piece, and is adjustable. We remove the single plastic fastener shown to open an existing hole to mount to:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0504_zpscaf44107.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0504_zpscaf44107.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0503_zps77d5954e.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0503_zps77d5954e.jpg)
Reaching up under the cowl you can place the bracket and fasten with the 1/4 20 x 1.5" bolt and nut:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0519_zpse58121f9.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0519_zpse58121f9.jpg)
Now connect each line as follows. The line from the rear cam cover will connect to the center of the catchcan (inlet) with no checkvalve.
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0506_zps65e7e989.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0506_zps65e7e989.jpg)
One outer fitting from the can, with checkvalve flowing away from the can connects to the intake manifold vacuum barb.
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0508_zps2c27fb6b.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0508_zps2c27fb6b.jpg)
The final outlet from the can connects to the T'd line from each inlet tube providing suction for evacuation while in boost operation.
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0518_zps27a8f75f.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0518_zps27a8f75f.jpg)
And the final finished install looks almost factory:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0519_zpse58121f9.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0519_zpse58121f9.jpg)
Clean side install: (http://shop.ecoboostpowerparts.com/RevExtreme-Clean-Side-Oil-Separator-RXCleanSide.htm)
This part is a separate part use link to order - it is not included in the catch can price.
The ILE style cleanside spearator will then replace the oil fill cap and use the incuded vacuum cap to cap the barb on the cam cover, running the hose from the cleanside separator to the barb on the intake pipe the OEM line originally connected to:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0497_zps94f9589d.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0497_zps94f9589d.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0500_zpsf7da6d9e.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0500_zpsf7da6d9e.jpg)
You have now replaced the direct line that allows oil/water/fuel to enter the charge pipes and the IC. The cleanside separator will catch and return the oil caught during the momentary reversion when transitioning from non-boost to boost.
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0517_zps8545e962.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0517_zps8545e962.jpg)
We then move to the suction source that provides evacuation during boost (note, the same source is used for the brake booster vacuum when in boost as well until later years when a aux vacuum pump is added):
We are going to drill into each inlet tube that feeds the turbos with a 3/8" drill bit (if cold temps, warm with a hair dryer). If the hole is to small to allow the barb to push in for a snug fit, ream it slightly. It also helps to add some RTV or similar sealant to the barb to ensure a good seal. Do not be concerned with any small plastic particles that may fall into the tube, these will pass harmlessly through:
The rear tube
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0510_zps269891a1.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0510_zps269891a1.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0513_zps07c65e34.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0513_zps07c65e34.jpg)
and the front tube where we T into the secondary evac outlet on the can:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0515_zps2b826fb2.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/RevXtreme1002/DSCN0515_zps2b826fb2.jpg)
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0516_zpsa949fc8e.jpg) (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSCN0516_zpsa949fc8e.jpg)
Very nice setup, I watched him drain the can on the F150 and it filled about a half a clear solo cup. Wasn't to thrilled to see how nasty the inside of my intake is at 36k. Very interested to see what it pulls from mine. I swear the car ran better on my 30ish mile trip back home. Thank's again Mr. Tracy !!!
I am very interested in this product. But found the write up a bit unclear, perhaps a schematic diagram to illustrate the layout would be clearer.
As soon as Tracy let's me know pricing I can take orders.
If BigMac picks one up I can do a video for install as well. :)
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on March 01, 2014, 05:20:41 PM
As soon as Tracy let's me know pricing I can take orders.
If BigMac picks one up I can do a video for install as well. :)
I'll be in line for sure ... count me in.
I am in for one as well. I assume because the motors are the same for SHO and the Flex that this will be the same on the SHO.
This will work on:
Ford
Flex
SHO
Explorer Sport
Lincoln
MKT
MKS
Does anyone know if the radiator support is the same height? The clearance to bottom of my hood is close
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on March 01, 2014, 05:20:41 PM
As soon as Tracy let's me know pricing I can take orders.
If BigMac picks one up I can do a video for install as well. :)
You know I want one... I'll have to work out a mod on the drain tracy showed.. but I'm definitely having one after I wiped the inside of my OEM hot side pipes today during the hotpipe install at 7K miles. So now I have virgin pipes... wanna keep them that way.
Yeah, the drain is the only part I wouldn't be quite comfy with. Needs to be secured properly and shielded from road debris.
The drain DOES NOT hang down all the time. He just pulled it down for the pic. it tucks up under the front shield very nicely. just reach up from bottom to pop it out. I would HIGHLY recommend getting one after seeing the crap inside my engine. I am really considering tearing my intake off and doing a manual cleaning. He showed me a bunch of heads in the shop that had nasty amounts of coking on valves. one had only 12k if i remember right.
This is a great mod to do with a set of Hot pipes. If only hot pipes were available for the Xsport... Hint hint
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
If anyone wants more pics just yell I'll be more than happy to take some for you. Tracy actually seems genuinely concerned that the manufacturers take our money and don't address this issue, regardless if he's making anything off the cans or not!! Very, Very nice people.
Quote from: painterpatt on March 02, 2014, 08:57:43 AM
If anyone wants more pics just yell I'll be more than happy to take some for you. Tracy actually seems genuinely concerned that the manufacturers take our money and don't address this issue, regardless if he's making anything off the cans or not!! Very, Very nice people.
I wouldn't mind a pic or two of the can installed. His wright up was pretty good but dose not show the can actually installed in the engine bay. Also thanks for getting this done and helping us all in the community.
On a side note, Meth will clean your intake valves
Tracy...
Pics will be posted later in a thread about hot pipe install I got done yesterday... but my '13 SHO at 7K miles had wet oily residue in the OEM intake pipes already. ... I can hardly wait for this product!
(http://gifrific.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Fry-Shut-Up-and-Take-My-Money-Futurama.gif)
I'm just waiting on Tracy for the pricing, I've emailed him a couple times this weekend nothing yet.
I am ready to take your money!!! :)
Wouldn't this be a great mod to combo with a set of HotPipes for my Xsport???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
It would if I can get another x-sport to make the hot pipes :)
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on March 02, 2014, 06:02:36 PM
I'm just waiting on Tracy for the pricing, I've emailed him a couple times this weekend nothing yet.
I am ready to take your money!!! :)
I'm ready to give the $ $ to you .
As I understand it colder temps make this an absolute necessity ...
At the risk of sounding stupid , the HotPipes that are coming to me will not require any modification for this evac system to be plumbed in ?
I don't believe so but let me double check
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
How can we get you an Xsport for fab'in??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
I'm still wondering about the plastic chunks in the turbo inlet pipes after drilling. How are these not an issue for concern?
Also someone please play devil's advocate and give the reasons the stock system was designed this way. Aside from air intake valve coking what are the negatives? Are there any positives at all? My father will see mine eventually and I'll get the old "stock is super engeniered and the best it can be" argument :Picard2:
Quote from: bigmoneycloser on March 02, 2014, 07:24:40 PM
How can we get you an Xsport for fab'in??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
Possibly find another X SPORT owner or two , split the $ and have 4DR rent one for a few days !?!?
I'm down to split the cost....
Just say the word and let's get it...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
Quote from: bigmoneycloser on March 02, 2014, 07:37:18 PM
I'm down to split the cost....
Just say the word and let's get it...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
PM 4DR ... if a go then you could make a Separate Post.
Pm sent..
We will see.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
Quote from: SwampRat on March 02, 2014, 07:05:14 PM
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on March 02, 2014, 06:02:36 PM
I'm just waiting on Tracy for the pricing, I've emailed him a couple times this weekend nothing yet.
I am ready to take your money!!! :)
I'm ready to give the $ $ to you .
As I understand it colder temps make this an absolute necessity ...
At the risk of sounding stupid , the HotPipes that are coming to me will not require any modification for this evac system to be plumbed in ?
The intake tube he's drilling into is pre-turbo, the hot pipes I sell are post turbo.
I would definitely take the tube off before drilling so you don't get any plastic bits into the turbo/intake tract/intercooler.
Hi All,
Mike is making a video coming up on the install that should be very helpfull, and I will try a diagram as well.
Drain is easy, there is a 1/4 turn drain valve on the bottom:
Here is a video of draining a F-150, only difference for the cars/flex is it will drain out the hose when the drain valve is opened. Drain when engine is warm, and not running.
Any more questions, just ask, on anything automotive/engine related.
Perhaps I missed it, but does this can have an internal baffle?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Excellent question. While most cans are empty cans with nothing inside, the few that do have baffles, etc. still allow the incoming oil laden vapors to mix with the outgoing, and then most are far to small in internal volume (2-3 oz's) so the flow can never slow enough to prevent oil pull through. RX is nearly 1 qt in internal size.
No can is designed like the RX.
Here is a crude sketch to show:
(http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii115/RevXtreme1/DSC00065_zpsed84ff24.jpg)
Oil laden vapors enter the center and travel into the primary coalescing chamber (it is as big as many cans) where the perforated dispersion tube evenly distributes them through the coalescing media. This separates 90-95% of the mix. From there, the vapors exit the bottom and enter into the primary condensing and collection chamber. The final suspended liquids will coll and condense falling to the bottom for containment. The vapors then must pass a lower disc baffle that ensures even contact with the outer cooling wall and then into the secondary condensing chamber where the flow again slows to allow any left over droplets that have collected and condensed to fall from suspension before they again are forced past the upper disc baffle and into the separate outlet chamber where they again slow until pulled out either the primary outlet or secondary outlet.
over 7" between any oil laden vapors and the cleaned vapors, and 4 separate chambers and 3 separate steps. And anyone with any other brand can can easily test for pull through by adding a air compressor separator ($10) between any can and the intake vacuum to see how much most cans allow to be pulled right through them...no matter the brand name.
Hope this helps!
Yea, I know, I need to clean lol.
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140303_1715591_zps0789e038.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140303_1715591_zps0789e038.jpg.html)
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140303_1716091_zps83c532a8.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140303_1716091_zps83c532a8.jpg.html)
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140303_1716191_zpsaf5b91d9.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140303_1716191_zpsaf5b91d9.jpg.html)
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140303_1716331_zps232ca979.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140303_1716331_zps232ca979.jpg.html)
Looking good!! :coolgleam:
Hey all, any questions let us know so we can help.
Those that have installed the system, post up how it's working.
Popped of T. Body the other day when cleaning sensors and changing plugs. Happy to report no oil came out this time. Still a little shy of 500 miles to drain can tho. Will post vid.
Hey Tracy.... A little off topic, sorry. I got my RX catch can and Cleanside separator deliver to my mechanic yesterday (haven't seen it yet)....
Do you have recommendations for mounting location in the SHO ('13 SHO)? TIA
Not yet, so get creative and post what you find...looking at diagrams it appears it will mount in the same spot as the flex, but your the guinea pig!! Let me know if you need help, but if they are a competent shop they will figure a good spot.
Quote from: Tuner Boost on March 19, 2014, 07:49:11 PM
Not yet, so get creative and post what you find...looking at diagrams it appears it will mount in the same spot as the flex, but your the guinea pig!! Let me know if you need help, but if they are a competent shop they will figure a good spot.
Thanks Tracy, I appreciate the offer of help!... It's all good...Done that guinea pig thing before for sure. Definitely will get pics and mounting options. Only concern is space around the EBPP hotpipes, but I've Got every faith in Jeremy over at Black Market Racing. SwampRat will be working on one too, so we'll get the info.
I ordered one too. I don't know when I'll get around to installing it though ::)
Any progress with a diagram or video? I haven't had time to install yet, but I imagine it will be a helpful tool!
Thanks!
Been working with Tracy... He's sending out a couple of fittings and a different bracket than came with the can... May just be the answer for the SHO. If not I'm putting her up on a lift to mount the can low to right rear. It's not the HPs or DPs... there just isn't as much room in the SHO engine compartment compared to the Flex
Tracy and RX Performance have provided stellar customer service...second to none!. :thankyou:
Has anyone else installed their OCC on the XSport yet?
My install is next week...
Quote from: painterpatt on March 19, 2014, 12:03:53 PM
Popped of T. Body the other day when cleaning sensors and changing plugs. Happy to report no oil came out this time. Still a little shy of 500 miles to drain can tho. Will post vid.
Hey PainterPatt, any new updates, videos, etc?
x2 on updates, PainterPatt :D Did you get yours done, BMC?
I actually just got back from RX, Tracy moved my cleanside tap to intake tube right net to air cleaner. I was getting oil in cleanside instead of can. He's going to post about it after he gets his arms out of a Corvette
Quote from: painterpatt on April 12, 2014, 03:09:28 PM
I actually just got back from RX, Tracy moved my cleanside tap to intake tube right net to air cleaner. I was getting oil in cleanside instead of can. He's going to post about it after he gets his arms out of a Corvette
Pre and Post change pics please... TIA
Hi All, I forgot to take pics, but Pat can of the after. Yes, the drill/tap spot on the front charge pipe was upstream of the barb for the cleanside and was over powering the flow when cruising and in boost. So we moved the cleanside separator line and fitting to as close to the air filter as possible and cured it. This also allows no drilling for the front tube!!! Just use the existing OEM barb the cleanside tube did attache to. I also recommend cleaning the CAC (remove to do) first as he still has a good bit in his CAC.
Cheers!
Quote from: Tuner Boost on April 12, 2014, 04:28:18 PM
Hi All, I forgot to take pics, but Pat can of the after. Yes, the drill/tap spot on the front charge pipe was upstream of the barb for the cleanside and was over powering the flow when cruising and in boost. So we moved the cleanside separator line and fitting to as close to the air filter as possible and cured it. This also allows no drilling for the front tube!!! Just use the existing OEM barb the cleanside tube did attache to. I also recommend cleaning the CAC (remove to do) first as he still has a good bit in his CAC.
Cheers!
Is there ANY way to clean the CAC while it is still mounted ?
From what I undestand removal is a royal PITA .
Quote from: Tuner Boost on April 12, 2014, 04:28:18 PM
Hi All, I forgot to take pics, but Pat can of the after. Yes, the drill/tap spot on the front charge pipe was upstream of the barb for the cleanside and was over powering the flow when cruising and in boost. So we moved the cleanside separator line and fitting to as close to the air filter as possible and cured it. This also allows no drilling for the front tube!!! Just use the existing OEM barb the cleanside tube did attache to. I also recommend cleaning the CAC (remove to do) first as he still has a good bit in his CAC.
Cheers!
First off: I know Pat didn't have much oil in his can...from what I see in your post I'm guessing because of the constant hyper-vacuum to the clean side separator the coalescing material in the separator was working overtime and the evacuated mixture was being either returned to the oil or fed through the intake? Due to a lack of vacuum through the rear PCV, this was acting as the constant "clean-side"?
Second: So for those of us (me) that have already installed; is there something we should be doing?? Instructions please.
Third: If I'm reading your post correctly; you attached the front-side outlet, from the can to the oem vacuum barb that the clean side separator WAS attached to. Then, extended the clean side separator closer to the air filter to decrease vacuum. Correct?
Questions:
- Does the outlet hose from the can for the front side now only have one port instead of two? ...OR does it T-into the oem barb, then go to the rear intake pipe drill/threaded fitting?
- Will another hole need to be drill/tapped near the airbox now?
- Best recommendation for plugging the now un-used drill/threaded fitting on the front pipe?
- Is the problem definitely solved, or would it be better to wait prior to making any changes?
- Is it hurting anything to drive the XSport currently, with the prior install?
TIA for a comprehensive reply.
Just found this post from TunerBoost on the main PCV thread...
Quote from: Tuner Boost on April 12, 2014, 01:05:33 PM
Hey all, and any with the RX can installed on a flex or car please read. Simple minor change for the better:
PainterPat just left. What we found is the drill location for the front intake tube is before the fresh side barb, so at cruise it has been over powering the flow not allowing the can to work properly. So, everyone please note, no need to drill the front inlet pipe. Simply use the 5/8" barb to T into the back side one and then use a 90* 1/4 NPT x 3/8" barb for your clean side hose connection and drill it just after (down from) the air filter/air box. and connect the cleanside separator their. We tested and it worked properly, and it makes install easier. The trucks we can reach to drill downstream so that has never been an issue. Whichever fitting is closest to the turbo will over power the one up stream even if only by a few inches. So, he is checking back in 500-800 miles to see the accumulation at that time. Any questions, or anyone needing a fitting let us know and we will get it right out.
You want the fitting installed for the cleanside separator as close to the air filter as possible.
Clean side is now tapped next to air cleaner, move line from can to stock location on tube that clean side was removed from. Cap barb that was drilled into tube or remove and plug. Or I guess you could just cap the factory port cleanside was attached to. (http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140412_1825441_zpsfa3d1cce.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140412_1825441_zpsfa3d1cce.jpg.html)
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140412_1826091_zps79a2151d.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140412_1826091_zps79a2151d.jpg.html)
(http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/PattrikN/20140412_1826311_zpsee8ec46e.jpg) (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/PattrikN/media/20140412_1826311_zpsee8ec46e.jpg.html)
TunerBoost: When moving the cleanside separator port, what's your recommendation for capping the oem intake barb and leaving the outlet from the can how it is currently routed VS. re-mounting the hose from the front side threaded barb onto the oem barb?
Thanks!
Thinking about all of this...a couple other ideas popped up I would love input on:
if the problem is the clean side separator getting too much vacuum, would it make sense to just constrict the cleanside hose, rather than re-routing it? (ie. reducing it down to a smaller size, or adding a check valve to slow the flow?) Maybe the two front ports could be juxtaposed, then restrict the cleanside? Just some ideas on how else to skin this proverbial cat. I would rather not leave an unused port in the intake unless I have to.
How would one test to see if it's working correctly?
Well that's going to be a little more difficult with the metal pipe on the K&N intake. With the Rx installed the cleanside separator hose is just a fresh air intake now (besides for a moment when switching to boost) right? Why would you want any suction on the end of this line? Is that what the "off road" oil cap does is just put a filter on the air intake for the PCV system?