• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

MIL Flashing, P0087, P0301, rough idle, hesitation, fuel smell.

Started by Deebeaux, June 20, 2016, 10:36:12 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

FoMoCoSHO

Do you have the OBD troubleshooting guide for your year?

FoMoCoSHO

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1404.pdf

I couldn't get it to open, let me know if you have an issue, I have it backed up somewhere if not.

Methinks we should sticky these in the troubleshooting section.....

Gjkrisa

On Android Google PDF viewer works

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

BiGMaC

Quote from: Gjkrisa on June 24, 2016, 06:21:42 PM
On Android Google PDF viewer works

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Great document. On iPhone it just opens in a new browser window and then I saved it to iBooks which synced it automatically to all of my devices... Back to the OPs problem...

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

Deebeaux

I do have it, thanks. Someone linked me to it earlier and I searched around in it for the P0087 and the P00C6 seem to point to the HPFP or LPFP typically, but the low rail pressure could be caused by an injector stuck open. Not super clear on how I can determine if an injector is stuck open without just changing it an seeing what happens.

From what I can determine by reading the linked document is the P0087 and P00C6 codes are indicated of insufficient feed pressure to the fuel rail, and the sensors involved are the FLI (fuel level input), FRP (fuel rail pressure), FVR (fuel volume regulator, solenoid on HPFP), and Lift Pump (LPFP). I'm still leaning toward injector as my problem is a single cylinder and I've found three other forum references to the same symptoms and injector was at fault. I think a stuck open injector is plausible to cause low rail pressure if the fault is extreme enough.

The parts I ordered (injector, LPFP, and FPCM) will all be here Wednesday. I'll try swapping the FPCM first, but if that doesn't do the trick I think the injector on cylinder #1 is my next best guess in terms of throwing pars at it. If all three of those parts don't fix it, I suspect a compress test is in order before ordering a HPFP.

Any insight is openly welcomed. Thanks to everyone in this thread. I couldn't have asked for a better welcome to the EBPF community.

Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on June 24, 2016, 06:06:58 PM
Do you have the OBD troubleshooting guide for your year?
2020 Tesla Model S Performance FSD
[SOLD!] 2014 Tuxedo nonPP | 401A, driver assist, nav, multi-contoured seat | AEM drop-in, Unleashed 3bar 93 tune

ZSHO

Sorry a bit late to the SHO.  Z      https://dochub.com[EDIT] Wiring schematics for ya later.


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Deebeaux

Ugh. Parts delayed a day. UPS truck had "mechanical difficulties" which caused the delay. Don't worry, the irony is not lost on me. Hopefully this weekend I can get her back on the road. Moved it around back today to have a good place to work on it, startup is unchanged with the white smoke and misfire and a SUPER strong smell of fuel. I keep checking under the car for a Niagara Falls of fuel coming out. LOL.

Hopefully this weekend I can dig into it more. Thanks again to everyone for the help, here's to some progress on this long holiday weekend.
2020 Tesla Model S Performance FSD
[SOLD!] 2014 Tuxedo nonPP | 401A, driver assist, nav, multi-contoured seat | AEM drop-in, Unleashed 3bar 93 tune

SHOdded

LOL!  Hope the weekend is much kinder to you than UPS has been :)
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Deebeaux

UPS delivered. So far, it's NOT the FPCM. Swapped it, problem persists. Dinner and then on to the next likely item, which I'm taking a stab at the injector next, unless someone thinks something else should be tried first.
2020 Tesla Model S Performance FSD
[SOLD!] 2014 Tuxedo nonPP | 401A, driver assist, nav, multi-contoured seat | AEM drop-in, Unleashed 3bar 93 tune

SHOdded

no easy fix :(  better be the injector ...  take pics of the removal/install if you dont mind.  Noones documented yet.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Deebeaux

Well, I really hope it's the injector. If it's not, it's probably bottom end, which I'm really not in the mood for.

I'll snap some good pics and post them up when done.

Cylinder #1 is in the bank closet to the firewall closed to the passenger side, correct? (I've confirmed that a few times, but want to make sure before I do something really stupid. Lol.

If I decide to run a compression test, what's the best way to prevent the car from firing when starting? Unplugging all the coils?
2020 Tesla Model S Performance FSD
[SOLD!] 2014 Tuxedo nonPP | 401A, driver assist, nav, multi-contoured seat | AEM drop-in, Unleashed 3bar 93 tune

SHOdded

correct.3 would be opposite/driver side on rear bank.

On most cars, pulling the fuel pump fuse/relay prevents starting the engine.  Let me check.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

sholxgt

I think you can floor the throttle and push the start button and it will just crank. Will turn over as long as you push start button. Just release start button prior to letting off throttle.

Best to let SHOdded confirm :)
Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

SHOdded

I know polskifacet did a compression test recently, maybe you should PM him?  But sholxgt's method is kind of the same.  Per the manual, you should definitely remove the spark plugs though.  Flooring the accelerator will cut off the fuel injectors while cranking, but I do prefer pulling the fuel pump fuse for safety reasons.  Can't verify if fuse pulling works here though.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Deebeaux

Here's the "official" Ford procedure...

Compression Test

  • Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged.
  • Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature.
  • Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
  • Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
  • Install a compression gauge in the No. 1 cylinder.
  • Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of 5 compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes necessary to obtain the highest reading.
  • Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

I'll pull fuse and FPCM plug as well, just to be safe. I don't have an auxiliary switch hanging around so I'll have to have a buddy toggle the start button.
2020 Tesla Model S Performance FSD
[SOLD!] 2014 Tuxedo nonPP | 401A, driver assist, nav, multi-contoured seat | AEM drop-in, Unleashed 3bar 93 tune