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New SHO owner with problems

Started by My15SHO, June 29, 2020, 12:58:05 PM

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ridered74

Quote from: My15SHO on July 27, 2020, 01:58:25 PM
I get the battery going dead and preventing starting, but after its started and running, why would the battery cause the issues i had? Am i too old school in thinking it runs off the alternator once started? That power is run thru the battery but does a bad battery not allow that? I suppose after it sitting in a bay for 6 weeks and its all put back together the battery could take a dump quick.


It does, but old school cars weren't as dependent on electronics as cars today are. If a bad battery causes voltage fluctuations it can effect pretty much every aspect of the car since almost everything is controlled by electronics in some way or another.
Gearhead E30 tune, Gearhead intercooler, LMS firestorm hpfp, catted downpipes, corsa catback, 160 degree thermostat, 3 bar map, upgraded AD trans mounts, MSD coils, Nitto 555R drag tires on front, AR924 wheels and BFG sport comp 2 summer tires on rear, and an EPP intake.

12.2479 @ 118.05 fastest trap
11.591 @ 114.89   fastest ET

SM105K

Quote from: ridered74 on July 28, 2020, 01:05:42 AM
Quote from: My15SHO on July 27, 2020, 01:58:25 PM
I get the battery going dead and preventing starting, but after its started and running, why would the battery cause the issues i had? Am i too old school in thinking it runs off the alternator once started? That power is run thru the battery but does a bad battery not allow that? I suppose after it sitting in a bay for 6 weeks and its all put back together the battery could take a dump quick.


It does, but old school cars weren't as dependent on electronics as cars today are. If a bad battery causes voltage fluctuations it can effect pretty much every aspect of the car since almost everything is controlled by electronics in some way or another.

100% correct with these cars when it comes to weak batteries.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

TopherSho

Mine would not go into reverse ... Drove fine,  headlights would go bright and dark depending on the charging state.. but the weird moment was when it refused to go into reverse in a parking lot.  went into drive fine (but with a loud THUNK) ... but reverse ... nope.  swapped the batter right there in the Walmart parking lot and all fixed.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

My15SHO

Got the car back yesterday, i suppose a car sitting for weeks in a shop can be the final death blow for a bad battery. Everything seems good, car drives strong. The final bill was a tad over $12k, alot of stuff included on the invoice. I did see the tranny fluid was replaced, i assume due to the block being replaced. What about the PTU? Would that have been serviced as well? I didnt get a whole lot of info when i picked the car up. I saw the front end was realigned, dont know alot about whats involved, what got replaced, what didnt? I feel like my maintence schedule is all thrown off.

My15SHO

The invoice is 5 pages, three of which are nothing but part #'s. Aside from the multiple bolts, nuts, gaskets....i see the new engine assembly, two filter assembly, 6qt engine oil, 12qt auto trans oil, 2 qt auto trans oil, 1 gallon distilled water?

My15SHO

Well, atleast i got to enjoy it for 2 days this time. Two puddles under the car in the garage. One is red ATF and the other engine oil.  I know its a big job but is it honestly too much to expect to have it done correctly, all bolts in place, no leaks.

TopherSho

.... that sounds like my dealership.  I gave up and found a warranty authorized mechanic instead and its been way better,  but in your case you will definitely need to go back and politely throw a stink.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

My15SHO

I was told a transmission line wasnt tightened and leaking, they tightened it and topped it off. No more leaks overnight so i assume thats fixed.  I had the car back for two days and it throws a P0020 code on the way to work, which happens to be the same code that i brought it in for back on June 20th. 7 weeks.....three visits.....right back where we started.

My15SHO

Im gonna look into it myself, is "bank 2" the front or back cylinder head, also will the vct connector be on the left or right side. I found some answers on an F150 Forum but our engines are sideways compared to theirs

Macgyver

Quote from: My15SHO on August 07, 2020, 09:16:07 AM
Im gonna look into it myself, is "bank 2" the front or back cylinder head, also will the vct connector be on the left or right side. I found some answers on an F150 Forum but our engines are sideways compared to theirs

This should help:

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=10453.msg157780#msg157780

ridered74

Quote from: My15SHO on August 07, 2020, 08:37:10 AM
I was told a transmission line wasnt tightened and leaking, they tightened it and topped it off. No more leaks overnight so i assume thats fixed.  I had the car back for two days and it throws a P0020 code on the way to work, which happens to be the same code that i brought it in for back on June 20th. 7 weeks.....three visits.....right back where we started.

P0020 is probably going to be the wiring coming from your vct solenoid. Mine had a break inside the plug itself, so it wasn't visible but some people have had the wiring on the outside break as well.

If you have a multimeter, remove the plug and hold the start button on your car for a few seconds without pressing brakes. At this point you should have 8-9 volts or so when you plug the multimeter prongs directly into the two spots on the plug. Then press on the wiring and bend it until you see the voltage drop to zero and you will know where the break is.

Super common problem on these cars. Been about 3 in facebook groups just in the last week.
Gearhead E30 tune, Gearhead intercooler, LMS firestorm hpfp, catted downpipes, corsa catback, 160 degree thermostat, 3 bar map, upgraded AD trans mounts, MSD coils, Nitto 555R drag tires on front, AR924 wheels and BFG sport comp 2 summer tires on rear, and an EPP intake.

12.2479 @ 118.05 fastest trap
11.591 @ 114.89   fastest ET

My15SHO

Thanks for the info, so the million dollar question is if it is the wiring/plug that causes the code, is it just a split second voltage that sets the code and there is no "damage" being done? I reset the light with a scan tool and it hasnt come. back on yet. Is there any harm being done by faulty wiring to the engine and the timing?. Thanks a lot guys!

ridered74

Quote from: My15SHO on August 08, 2020, 09:26:50 AM
Thanks for the info, so the million dollar question is if it is the wiring/plug that causes the code, is it just a split second voltage that sets the code and there is no "damage" being done? I reset the light with a scan tool and it hasnt come. back on yet. Is there any harm being done by faulty wiring to the engine and the timing?. Thanks a lot guys!

If I remember right, it only sets the code if voltage is lost for 5 seconds straight or something along those lines. It isn't going to hurt the car to drive it like that in the meantime, but long term it would not be good for the car. Mine started as the code would pop once every couple days, then after about two months it got to the point where it came on every time I drove it. It idled a little rough but that was about all I noticed as far as driveability.
Gearhead E30 tune, Gearhead intercooler, LMS firestorm hpfp, catted downpipes, corsa catback, 160 degree thermostat, 3 bar map, upgraded AD trans mounts, MSD coils, Nitto 555R drag tires on front, AR924 wheels and BFG sport comp 2 summer tires on rear, and an EPP intake.

12.2479 @ 118.05 fastest trap
11.591 @ 114.89   fastest ET

My15SHO

#43
Is what we are talking about....this plug and sensor?  Pics attached

ridered74

Quote from: My15SHO on August 08, 2020, 06:39:02 PM
Is what we are talking about....this plug and sensor?  Pics attached


Yep.
Gearhead E30 tune, Gearhead intercooler, LMS firestorm hpfp, catted downpipes, corsa catback, 160 degree thermostat, 3 bar map, upgraded AD trans mounts, MSD coils, Nitto 555R drag tires on front, AR924 wheels and BFG sport comp 2 summer tires on rear, and an EPP intake.

12.2479 @ 118.05 fastest trap
11.591 @ 114.89   fastest ET