This is really disappointing. I want to run a tune in this thing but it doesn't look like I can. I loaded an 87 octane tune with an SCT X4 and it detonated with 91 octane in the tank, so I put the stock tune back in and logged that. This thing will hit 7 on knock WOT with the stock tune running 91 octane. I tried multiple stations after running the tank dry, so it should not be fuel unless it is all Cali fuel. The logs show it wanting to get the advance down to 10 on multiple logs. It is higher in 1st and 2nd, but in third when the load is higher it always gets down around 10 on advance. I looked at a log from a stock 17 and it is running 16-19 degrees in second gear and 14-17 degrees through 3rd. After only running about 5 minutes, mine was 15-18 in 2nd and 10.5-14.5 in 3rd with knock reaching 3.75 in 3rd. This looked better so I was feeling some hope. Then, 45 minutes later after running a tight windy road, 3rd had 10-13 advance with knock peaking at 3. It must have been commanding a lower base timing because of warming IAT's or ECT's. I did another run a couple minutes later and it had 9-11 degress in 3rd and the knock peaked at 7.5 at the top of 2nd and through the shift to third. For the first couple hundred RPM in 3rd after the shift retard, it was only 5 degrees. The Sport is all stock with only 6k miles. WTF is up with this thing?
What could the factory have f'd up on this thing causing it to run on 91 octane like it is 84 octane? I don't think it is false knock detection
since I heard audible knock with the tune. Lambda is rich at 0.78 to 0.82 so fueling looks good. The load is maxed so the MAP is good. I have not logged any part throttle stuff.
Thanks
How many miles on your XSport? What is the maintenance history? Have you checked for oil pooling in the intake tubes and/or intercooler?
Whose tune are you running? Unleashed, LME, someone else's? Where are you located? What are the environmental conditions under which you logged KR?
Have you checked the plug gap? Some of the Ecoboost plugs come wildly varied from the factory. If your tuned you want your gap at .030
Instead of the factory 35.
Some have had their factory gap vary from .032 -.040.
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Did you check for any DTC codes set ? There is also a fuel system Recall not quite sure if yours is affected. Z http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Explorer/2016/recalls/ (http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Explorer/2016/recalls/) BTW please follow the new members INTRO section,thanks. Z http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,14.0.html (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,14.0.html)
6000 miles.
Oil changed at 2k to Mobil 1. Changing again this weekend.
Plugs gapped to 0.028
Stock tune logged.
Sea Level in Northern Cali 80 degrees
Union and Chevron 91 only ever in the car
Trying to decide if I should go to Sonoma Raceway and fill up with 100 octane to see if KR goes to 0 or put 87 in it and see if it detonates. If it detonates on 87 then I can take it to the dealer. However, what are the chances they would actually find something and how much damage would they do beating the hell out of it making it detonate while they troubleshoot? I bet they would just tell me I got bad fuel.
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No codes. Plugs were 0.030-0.032 stock. I put them at 0.028. As far as I know, too wide a gap should only cause no detonation from spark blowout at high boost, not pre-detonation from lighting off too soon.
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Oh, I did take the intake elbow off and looked through the throttlebody and could not see any signs of oil. The only thing I could think of is either the intake temps are too high, but I don't think Ford bypassed the intercooler lol, or the PCV was throwing oil mist in there causing the effective octane to drop.
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What IAT2 is normal at WOT?
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KR on the stock tune is normal.
Cali gas is the worst, do you have E85 around you?
Are you using TOP TIER fuel? There is a huge difference in knock resistance.
If you are using the SCT canned tune, scrap it and get a real tune, their canned tunes are garbage.
There are compensations for IAT2 temps and ECT.
Stock IAT2 spark compensations start at 160 IIRC.
There really is no normal IAT2 but our intercooler is in a very inefficient location. That coupled with high heat, humidity, and an engine that runs hot, will get you to 160 easily.
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on August 06, 2016, 01:18:32 PM
If you are using the SCT canned tune, scrap it and get a real tune, their canned tunes are garbage.
I would guess that this is the primary issue. I've heard the canned tunes are horrible. They just blindly increase timing and boost and hope the car survives. Makes for a very bad combo with the bad Cali fuel.
I've heard great things about ACES fuel treatment as a possible solution. My understanding is that E85 is very readily available in Cali as well.
If you are running the canned tune, get it back to stock before there's damage. Then work with a reputable tuner to come up with a safe tune with your fuel of choice. At minimum, I would run 91 octane from a top tier supplier.
STOCK TUNE! I am using the SCT to datalog the stock tune. I have seen 7.5 KR on the STOCK TUNE. That can't be right. This is with top tier 91 Cali fuel. E85 is nowhere near me. It is supposed to be able to run on 87, but it wouldn't be able to retard enough to keep from pre-detonating. I tried an *** 87 tune on 91 octane and I heard detonation. So, I went back to stock and logged KR. Not good. A fellow racer with an *** 15 F150 is running 12.60 on the same shitty fuel. It has to be something else. I would love to see a log from a stock Cali Sport on our crap 91.
Well, let's see the logs you have for the stock tune, in full. Don't know how many parameters you are logging, be ready to do a couple more logs if need be.
I'll attach some when I get home. I know there are compensations for IAT's and probably ECT's as well, which is why I gave total advance numbers as well as the knock. It will dip below 10 degrees total advance occasionally in 80 degree weather. My logs include a lot of parameters.
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Ok, with any luck, we'll get this figured out :)
Here are a few logs from last week. I took off from the house and did the first log on the on ramp, so it was only running about 5-10 mins. The next log was after running on a tight windy road. The road was unlevel. I turned around and went the other way for the last log, which was withing a few minutes of the previous and the knock went way up. The difference between the two would be where the road was uphill vs downhill. I think 3rd was uphill in the last log so the actual load would be higher. Maybe that is the difference. The on-ramp was level ground.
Thanks
Looks pretty normal and absolute load (which follows torque) is similar to other stock logs I've seen.
Personally I think the stock KR is caused from being pig rich and the cylinders are getting too wet.
Looks like the 91 helped, looks like max KR was 3.75.
In 3rd you can see at the highest KR it pulled some timing but started giving it back as it subsided.
IMO, everything is fine.
Heat soak may be a factor here? Trans fluid level checked (within the cross-hatch on the dipstick)? With a LOR of near -1, fuel is not the issue. Maybe you should try 1 gal/tank of E85 and see what difference that makes to the drive/logs.
Did you see the last log where it had knock set to 7.5 and only had 5 degrees advance? That doesn't seem right.
I need something else explained. Look at time 12.5sec. This is just after the 300ms of shift retard for the 2nd to 3rd shift. After that, it is only at 6.5 advance with knock at 7.25. At time 13.3 sec the knock only went down to 7.00 but the advance went up to 10.0. What told it to go up the extra 3 degrees? All the temps went up and the load stayed pegged. Maybe it was the change in boost level, but that is pretty marginal.
Does anyone have copies of the stock spark tables? I am guessing there is a base spark table, then modifiers based on IAT and ECT, and then what else is there?
Thanks
I was going to take it to the drag strip Wednesday and put some 100 octane in and see what happens to the log, but they aren't racing this week. This was my last chance since the kids go back to school next week and I have to pick them up. Anyway, E85 is not near me. I may add some octane booster. I need to research that. My buddy said something about Torco or something like that, but he didn't use it with direct injection. I need to make sure that the Ecoboost is okay with whatever I use. I really just want to put the high octane stuff in at the track.
I was thinking that maybe my crank position sensor is off a few degrees and it is actually more advanced than it thinks. Is that possible? If it was, should it have run quicker than my best bone stock pass of 14.56 @ 94.6 mph at sea level?
The other option is to run 87 in it and see if it pings. If it does, something isn't right. The manual says you can run 87. If the knock retard runs out of range and can't retard it enough to keep from pinging, then something is wrong. What do you think?
Thanks
I don't know that I would worry about it too much if stock...The load and conditions change so rapidly because of the varying boost levels that happen throughout the rev range on the stock tune...So the spark is ever changing because of the compensations, load...It's like the proper spark is a moving target because of the tune...I guess that's how OEM's get good power from 87 octane and engine size...They ride the edge and let the knock sensors tweak it I guess.
And about the spark tables...It's really not as simple as it used to be...There are at least 15 base tables for spark...Then there are adders for air fuel ratio then modifiers for MBT spark then compensations for IAT, ECT, trans oil temp(TOT) then the scaling for OAR
I wouldn't waste time with octane boosters the can be too inconsistent ....Either try VP street blaze or Race Fuel Concentrate in the orange and white cans from summit racing or Jegs...
Having it knock for that long, that's REALLY riding the edge. Fuel economy? And yet a proper tune nets you more performance, usually better fuel economy, and knock at/near 0 throughout the rev range.
If this proper tune increases the boost to get more power, then it must drop the commanded advance way down to have knock at 0. What is the advance on average at WOT in third on the aftermarket tunes?
I would think leaning out the AFR would only make it worse, since the rich mixture helps cool.
Overly rich is bad also
Spark is not dependent on gear.....its purely load and rpm and compensations and modifiers
Ive seen it vary substantially thats why i believe each tune should custom for each car if max performance is sought
I would say maybe very low teens for spark for 1.55 load for a rough average
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5987.msg101516/topicseen.html#new (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5987.msg101516/topicseen.html#new)
Newest logs 4th post down
Low teens with more boost and mine only wants 10 stock. Something is no bueno! I know overly rich is bad, but what is overly rich? I have seen stock tunes running 10.8 AFR, so that would be a lambda of 0.76 on these. I am a little leaner than that. Wait a second, I just looked at the last log with the crazy 7.5 knock and it had the Lambda at 0.70! Holly crap. That was super rich. 9.85 AFR?! How did it even run with that?! the Lambse was right there so it is measuring exactly what is commanded. What makes it command such a rich mixture. When knock is sensed, does it only retard timing or does it add fuel too?
The turned way down aftermarket test tune I ran was at 8.00 in the middle of 3rd at 4950rpm with knock at 4.25. Lambse and Lambda were all at 0.82, so a much nicer AFR. kPA was 201. It was still pulling a ton eventhough the tune had it turned way down. At 5000 rpm still in the middle of 3rd gear, knock jumped to 5.75 and advance dropped to 6.50. So, even with a good AFR, it was still sensing knock with 8 degrees advance!
I ordered some Torco! I just want to see if I can get the knock to 0 somehow.
I'll have to look at your logs at home. I better actually get something done at work today! Thanks
Instead of trying octane booster or race gas, I'd put a tune in it and start logging it instead.
Stock, these things run rich enough to make the tailpipes look like a diesel.
I would be surprised if a good tune doesn't make your KR go away.
Quote from: sholxgt on August 08, 2016, 05:22:23 PM
Instead of trying octane booster or race gas, I'd put a tune in it and start logging it instead.
Stock, these things run rich enough to make the tailpipes look like a diesel.
I would be surprised if a good tune doesn't make your KR go away.
I did, and had audible knock which is why I went back to the stock tune so I could see what is going on. I also had a dialed back aftermarket tune put in so I could log and see what is going on. Read the last paragraph from reply #25. I could try another tuner, but I don't want to spend another $150 on tunes that won't work because I already have too much KR on a stock tune. The last log on the super dialed back aftermarket tune still showed knock of 5 so it only had advance at 6.5 to 8 degrees in 3rd, even with a good 0.82 measured AFR. He was commanding a super low advance because I had audible knock in his previous tune eventhough it was an 87 octane tune and I have always only had 91 in the tank. He also saw how much advance the stock tune wanted from my logs, so he knew where to start and it still pulled a bunch with the KR.
Since you have not mentioned the tuner you are using, I want to throw this out there...
LME, Unleashed and Leading Edge Tuning are well known shops that have a lot of experience with the transverse 3.5 EB. If you are using a different tuner, that could be your problem. There is also a wild card tuner here on the forum that has shown a remarkable ability to fine tune these cars.
Do you have any modifications?
Edited to add...I would also be frustrated.
I said the name in an earlier post but it blocked it. He doesn't have the best reputation but he definitely knows what to do with the F150's. I have been racing a 93 Stang with a blown 347 in it for years and I have seen multiple F150's he tuned put down some impressive times at Sonoma Raceway. The fellow racer that I have talked to for years has run a 12.50 with just a tune. It is a 2015 supercab 4wd 6.5' bed. He is on his 3rd EB tuned by *** and they were all fast. His 15 is the fastest but now he has a 17 on the way. *** has tune only SHO's running low 12's and two tune only Sports running low 13's. I just want to hit the 13's. I did see a 2015 *** Sport with tune only mod at Sonoma run 13.5 and that was not an aggressive tune. So, I was pretty optimistic. I think he needs to fine tune some stuff on the 16's, but I don't feel that the tune is the problem here. I will work with him more as I get time to test tunes, but this is my wife's daily driver so I don't get much time with it. I have been tempted to try another tuner, but with the stock tune commanding such a low amount of advance, I am really skeptical that it has any room left in it. There just has to be something wrong. I am just not sure how much effort I am willing to put into figuring it out. I need to focus my attention on my Mustang which needs a new crank and the house which needs a ton of work. My wife gets pissed when I spend time messing with our brand new car which is the only thing around which should not need any of my time. Other than changing oil and rotating the tires which I did yesterday. I also tried wrapping the knock sensor wires as posted by SHOboat, but that didn't help. I didn't think it would since I believe that the readings are real.
It is very disappointing to say the least. I have always raced every vehicle I have owned and knowing the potential of the Ecoboost after watching that F150 race was a big deciding factor on this purchase. With that said, it is 0.8 seconds quicker than our 2002 that I did some mods to. The 2002 did launch a lot harder though. It had 2.0 60fts and my best on that 14.56 run with our 16 was 2.194. Most were 2.23 area. It is still pretty quick though since my 93 5.0LX 5 speed Stang was only 0.05 quicker bone stock and 1mph slower!
I was just hoping that someone on here had a similar experience and were able to track it down to root cause.
Thanks!
I think it would be money well spent to to try a different tuner. Not that the guy you're using is bad, but the transverse EB is very different from the others. I suspect we have different cam profiles in addition to other things. If you look at our timing it is very different from the other EB's.
The KR stock does not surprise me. The factory tune is very rich and has a ton of timing advance. It then very actively uses the knock sensor.
At least with a different tuner, you could eliminate that as a possibility. I suspect though that you may see the problem go away. We have had others here with fuel issues magically disappear with the right tune. Your timing issue may do the same.
To the OP think it will be beneficial if you post some pic's of the engine bay because there was a recent member that had issues with his 16 x- sport and found issues with the harness/connector that supports the rear bov causing an under boost condition and certainly not implying its related to your case but think it might help to do so,also think a dealer visit might be your next step especially having warranty and all.....due setup your signature,thanks. Z
I am not sure what I would tell the dealer to look for, unless I could get it to ping by running 87. I may do that. I did see that post and inspected all of my wiring under the engine cover. Everything looks good. It ran 14.56, which is quicker than other stockers I have seen so it seems to be running well. Anyone ever had weird PCV issues?
The dealer might need to re-flash the PCM to the latest calibration/update if available for your particular model,this might help in your case. Z
Wonder what the dealer would do even if they heard it pinging
Quote from: AJP turbo on August 08, 2016, 11:09:39 PM
Wonder what the dealer would do even if they heard it pinging
In my experience, they are never able to replicate the condition. Until it's brought in on a flat bed with fluids pouring out, they see it as fine.
Yeah its actually just kind of a shitty situation...Not sure what a reasonable effort for diagnosis would be...Wouldn't blame them for not doing anything as nothing is broken yet...And waiting for a failure would most likely surely be cheaper than blindly changing parts and R and R.
You could see if there is an update or try a different tuner but there is really no secret to spark tuning...If a car is on 2 different tunes and one is knocking at a certain load and rpm with certain environmental conditions then if all things are equal the other tune will knock too if operating in those same conditions if the same amount of spark is commanded.
I have seen some cars run 17 degrees at 1.6 load and 130 degree IAT2 and another car that is exactly the same on be happy at 10 degrees spark....And I can't really come up with a good explanation...Fuel maybe? but Anti Knock Index(AKI) should be standardized from pump to pump
I say it's false knock but if you think you hear it pinging then that kills that idea...If you run race and it makes the KR go away then it's real.
Strange problem though
Yes, I figure that even if I could get it to knock on 87, the dealer would just put better gas in it and have it go away and tell me I got bad gas. I don't want them beating the crap out of it letting it ping all over the place while they diagnose because they'll do more damage than good. I already tried to get the dealer to reflash before I tuned it because I didn't want to bring it in later for something and get a new strategy. I told them about a couple issues and asked if they would give it the latest to see if it would go away. They said that they would not do anything unless they could verify the complaint and then found a TSB saying that a reflash would fix that. What a bunch of BS. How hard is it to just flash the damn thing. Fine, charge me for 5 minutes of labor! I have never heard the stock tune detonate, but I definitely have heard the aftermarket tune detonate. The tuner did not believe me until I showed him my stock log and he was not happy with the amount of knock the stock tune showed with 91. What if the damn crank sensor was off a few degrees. I have no idea if that is possible, but if it is then I should be able to get a tune that will work, it just has to command a super low timing. It wouldn't just mess up WOT though.
That is the whole reason I want to put race fuel in it or that Torco stuff. I just want to see if it is possible to get this thing to read 0 knock. It is at least one more piece of information. I need to call my tuner. He doesn't like to do email. He is old school and wants to talk through it. It is just easier for me to get on the computer during work hours than a long phone conversation. I want to see what he thinks of the logs I did with his "test" tune.
I only want to use someone that has done 2016 Sports. The guys with the most experience with these use their own tuner that doesn't log, which is why I didn't go with them. I would be flying blind right now with theirs. I wouldn't know if fuel was going away or what.
I would think it's more important to get the knock issue taken care of (assuming it's a programmable fix) first, then worry about the way it was fixed. You can always use SCT (or Torque Pro, or Forscan, or ...) to do datalogs on stock vs tuned with the new guys. It may not be completely transparent what was done, but you can very likely get a rough idea.
Do your custom tunes pull any timing on the shift? The stock tune looks like it retards the timing for 300ms around the shift. It pulls anywhere from 8-16 degrees during the shift. Is all of that eliminated on your aftermarket tunes or did your tuner leave a little of that in?
You dont really want the spark retard eliminated on the shifts...its part of the tq reduction for drivetrain preservation and helps with knock retard on boost spikes on wot upshifts
Thanks. That is exactly what I was thinking.
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Hey Guys,
I just wanted to give a quick update on what is going on with my wife's Explorer. The good news is that I PM'd AJP Turbo and asked him if he was willing to work with me on my Explorer and see if he could give me a usable tune and maybe help figure out what is wrong with this thing. AJP said he was willing to work with me. He might not be happy I share this piece of info, but he didn't even want any money unless he was able to get me something I was happy with. We are still working on it, but I had 3 tunes before I sent him any money. I do have a tune that has more power and less knock than the stock tune, so I sent him some money for the tunes.
Rev 1 was kind of a test with not much changed. Rev 2 launched a lot harder and had less knock than stock. AJP Turbo has been great to work with. I am hoping to get a couple more tunes, once I get this sling off of my arm (just had shoulder surgery) and can try to get rid of some false knock I have. Driving and datalogging with 1 arm is a PITA.
I am almost certain some knock detected is false. Back to back runs at the track in the same conditions netted a 3 degree difference in advance. This was also on 96 octane with only 6 degrees advance with a perfect 0.80 measured AFR, so there is no way it should have needed to drop the timing more than that. This was with less than 13psi of boost. It was a couple weeks ago, so I would need to double check the log for exact numbers, but it was somewhere around there. A couple of the runs had higher knock readings in 3rd at the track with 96 octane than it did on the street with 91. At part throttle, it adds a bunch of advance (knock reads negative). So I think I am still suffering from some false knock. The quicker passes had around 7-8 degrees advance and I think the ones that slowed down had 4-5 degrees. The temps were the same but the knock went up which brought timing down. I still never see the KR in the 7's like I did stock!
Anyway, this thing is fighting him because it just doesn't want any advance. He has had to lower the advance from stock to be able to keep the knock in check. I am pretty sure I have some false knock, eventhough the 2016 has some rubber insulation on the knock sensor wires and I tried to isolate them more like in the posts on this board. However, I know some was real since I could hear the knock with the *** tune. I couldn't log the knock however with that tune. I did see that he was only commanding like 10 degrees though so it didn't look crazy. The boost was hitting the peak at times of the 2-bar though, so it did have more boost and I don't know how much. It was probably way up there because it was really fast and spun the tires on the 1-2 shift. I did not like the drivability of the *** tune regardless.
AJP Turbo's tune launches harder than stock at somewhere around 40% or more throttle positions, shifts nicely, and still drives like stock at lower throttle positions. He also kept the paddle shifter functionality when in D and changed it to hold the gear you selected when in S, which is nice. Before in S, it would still downshift on you if it felt you were lugging it. You couldn't do a 3rd gear pull from under 4k stock because it would downshift on you. I like that feature and love how much quicker it is off the line.
AJP's Rev 2 picked up 2 tenths in the 60ft and 4 tenths in the 1/4. That was against a SUPER strong headwind and with the boost and advance fairly low because of whatever is going on with this Explorer. Even with these limitations, he was able to dial it in and give me a tune that feels much better than stock, especially on the launch which is where I really felt it was lacking stock, at the same time reducing knock. I need to run his Rev 4 at the track and see how it does, but I want to mess with the knock sensor wires some more and I have to get this sling off first.
I am hoping we can add a couple more degrees of timing without the knock jumping back up. I have never heard any audible knock accept when I ran the *** tune. The *** tune did not look that aggressive as far as timing, and AJP has never seen one require the advance to be lowered so much, so I still have some issues going on and ***'s tune would most likely work on a different Explorer that responds like most others.
Thanks AJP for getting this thing closer to where I want it to be! I look forward to some fine tuning in the future. I have an idea I want to run by you, but I need some more logs first.
Thanks again!
Glad your getting everything worked out, AJPTURBO is starting to have quite a large following with very good results. Subscribed for future updates.
Quote from: glock-coma on October 13, 2016, 12:11:08 PM
Glad your getting everything worked out, AJPTURBO is starting to have quite a large following with very good results. Subscribed for future updates.
i can see why. he actually takes time to tell you what he's doing in the tune and why. makes you feel much more informed and comfortable with the direction he takes with your car. it's not just "here's your tune, see ya later!" that was my issue with *** among other things. hope all this hype doesn't give AJP more business than he can handle! lol
Yep. I asked him if I could give him praise before I mentioned his name just in case he did have too much work. I just wish my Sport could handle a hotter tune. I want more boost and more advance! The cool thing is that AJP will make the changes you ask for, as long as it is a safe tune for your vehicle.
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Thanks for the update, glad progress has been made. What fuel are you using now and how does your OAR look? What fluid is in the trans?
OAR is -0.96 every time. Chevron or Union 76 91 octane. Best I can get unless I go to Sonoma Raceway. Trans fluid stock. Just about to turn 8000 miles. Part throttle the KR is always negative. It adds up to 4 degrees! WOT, it will still pull some eventhough only 10 degrees is commanded at 100 degrees IAT with 1 degree pulled for every 10 degree rise in IAT. What upsets me is the inconsistency of the knock. I did three 3rd gear pulls to 5k yesterday (short road) and the peak KR was 0, -2, and +2. Temps were the same. Has anyone got false knock from the sensor on the passenger side? I haven't messed with the wires on that one yet.
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My oar maxes out @ -0.96 also in livewire.
In torque it goes to -1.0
Is knock sensor value available? Track that for both banks along with KR, see correlation. Maybe one or more injectors is leaning out.
I only have a pid called knock. Just 1. It shows how much advance it is adding or subtracting. There is no K and KR, just K, but it is KR. A negative value means it adds advance, and a positive means it retards advance by that much. I see "spark" (which is my total advance) change by the amount recorded as knock. I did a couple back to back 0-90mph WOT runs today and it was adding advance, so I wanted to add 2-4 degrees of WOT advance and see what the knock read after that, but my tune has the adjustments turned off. I need to ask Brad to give me the same tune but allow me to adjust it. I want to be able to pull timing if I get bad fuel and add timing if I put race gas in.
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I should have specified. Forscan along with an OBD adapter. Still may not have it tho. Need to get a list of PIDs for the EB.
It looks like different strategies have different PID's to log. I would have thought they would be more consistent. I need a strategy and tune that would allow me to log individual knock or individual advance so I can see which cylinders the knock is coming from. That could help determine if it is false knock or not. If it is random, that could be false or real. If it is just one cyl, I would say it is real. Or if it is the two where the PCV gases come in.
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Quote from: 16MagSport on October 28, 2016, 08:41:21 PM
Quote from: nickwalter4 on October 28, 2016, 05:23:11 PM
No i cant. I just keep an eye on it. For now its cold startup during cold temps. It doest seem to do it at all at temp anymore. Just bothersome and a cause for worry. Being that my wife drives it more than i do . (The toddler seat is easier to reach than in the lancer. Guess ill see if it goes away in spring. When weather warms up.
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Yeah!!! Winner winner chicken dinner!! Nice job
Nick, you should start a new topic because your issue is nothing like mine. I was getting false knock which was seen in my datalogs. It seems like the last zip tying that I did to the knock sensor wires helped eliminate some false KR and made it more consistent, but I still seem to have some noise which causes it to register KR at WOT. I can add advance and get the same KR and add octane and get hte same KR, so AJP and I decided to turn things up a little. It is still not a really aggressive tune, but it feels much better than stock. 0.75 seconds quicker in the 1/4 and 4mph faster! It will do even better if the car had time to cool down and if the air was even cooler. My IAT's were still pretty hot.
Did you like my update in the previous post? I raced it on Wednesday with about the 8th tune revision from AJP and it was SUPER consistent. I was able to make it to the final. It was a double breakout run. I crossed a foot ahead but I broke out by 4 thousandths more than my opponent. So close! I would have won but I didn't stage deep enough. A deeper stage would have slowed my ET by a few tenths and my reaction would have been better. Anyway, it ran 13.811 @ 98.2mph. Stock was 14.56 @ 94mph.
Thanks AJP Turbo!!
Now for a little more aggressive "Race" tune and take advantage of some good fuel at the track. Not cheap though. $10/gal for 100 octane.
Excellent work, guys!
Thanks AJP. I sent you 2 logs out of my 10 passes. 1st and last, which was slowest and quickest. I have not even looked at them yet. I am guessing the only difference will be IAT's dropped for the quickest and in turn gave it a couple degrees more advance. I could feel it pulling harder once it cooled a little. Drove it tonight in the cold air and it felt GOOD!
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