Started this idea when i was sitting in the Pits @ National Trails (for what Seemed like Hours)
First Run was always the best Run (how to get rid of the Heat between Runs)...
You must have a custom Grill to attempt this Upgrade, Will not work with the stock grill....!
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/electric-radiator-cooling-fans/intercooler-fans-p-1024.html (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/electric-radiator-cooling-fans/intercooler-fans-p-1024.html)
3 - 7" Fans (12VDC, 1100 CFM X 3 = 3300 CFM ) "Will be powered by a Jump Pack" Under 100.00 Delivered.
2 - Aluminum L Channel 3/4" X 3/4" X 20" Long (i bought a 8' Piece) 20.00 Max Delivered
8 - NO 10 X 1" Long Phillips Head Screws With Lock Washers
3 - 1/4" X 1" Long Hex Head Bolts With Lock washers
2 - 1/4" x 1.5" Long Hex head Bolts With Flat Washers
Tap and Dies for the above, Portable Drill & hand tools
Wiring Quick Connectors (Male and Female), Wire and Fuse Block (20 AMP Fuse)
3 - 1/8" X 2" x 3" Thick Rubber Strip for bottom of Aluminum channel
Not Going to do a Write up (unless Someone actually wants to do this)
We did it with the Grill and bumper cover ON, and IT was Trial and error PIA,
But now that it is done "with Instructions" it took about 4 hours Total to complete.
total Parts Cost Approx. Under 150.00, the pictures tell the story:
After installation, then the Wiring (with Connectors)
Final Jump Pack END (mounted in the car) is not finished, however
we are ready for the 1/8" Mile this Friday, will run this setup from the battery
AND the Finished Product.. YAAAAAA
Nice work. I've seen plenty of guys at the track using external blowers in the pits to cool between runs. The last time I went, I bought some dry ice that I put on the intake for cooling, using grill mitts. I think it was something like $10 for 15 lbs of the dry ice. The track doesn't want drivers to use regular (water) ice, because they want to keep water off the track.
For those of us with stock grilles, it might be worth exploring adding a switch to power on the stock fans between runs.
Quote from: hawkeye93 on September 27, 2017, 10:28:12 AM
Nice work. I've seen plenty of guys at the track using external blowers in the pits to cool between runs. The last time I went, I bought some dry ice that I put on the intake for cooling, using grill mitts. I think it was something like $10 for 15 lbs of the dry ice. The track doesn't want drivers to use regular (water) ice, because they want to keep water off the track.
For those of us with stock grilles, it might be worth exploring adding a switch to power on the stock fans between runs.
we will also be doing the stock fan Switch as well... More is better, blow the heat out of there....! :blowup:
If it's just for moving air between runs, I have a Ryobi 40v leaf blower I could bring to the track...
Nice job Irondoor19!
Here is an idea to chew on.. What about installing something like "killer chiller" behind those fans to blow cooled air not only into the compartment, but thru the stock IC? Then let the car idle with AC on, I have found air moving thru the intake cools it pretty well versus having the engine off...... I would thing something like that even with stock fans on a switch could prove helpful.
A/C activates the 2nd radiator fan, so a great idea! As long as you did not run your fuel SUPERlow for the track, LOL!
Quote from: SHOdded on September 27, 2017, 05:19:45 PM
A/C activates the 2nd radiator fan, so a great idea! As long as you did not run your fuel SUPERlow for the track, LOL!
Too true!
Very nice mod. How loud is it. Just curious.
I know the tracks dont want water dripping on the track. But what about a very fine water mist system in combination with this setup? Sorta like the NFL uses on the side lines. Then activate for short periods before and then during the run. So to avoid any chance of dripping.
Now onto the Dry Ice idea. What about a custom Dry Ice type of Inter cooler. Not a traditional air flow cooler but like a water to air thats just vented a little to let off the pressure of the CO2. Obviously it would need a fill cap (radiator cap?) That would make the internal IC cooling fins Super cold.
Quote from: SHOdded on September 27, 2017, 05:19:45 PM
A/C activates the 2nd radiator fan, so a great idea! As long as you did not run your fuel SUPERlow for the track, LOL!
I'm glad someone else knows this nifty little trick. I have the manual switch for one fan and kick the a/c on low if i want to get the other moving. Effective for how simple it is.
Kudos to Irondoor for making this work. Please update with data when you're able to test it before or at the track.
Why will this not work with the stock grill?
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on September 27, 2017, 10:51:18 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on September 27, 2017, 05:19:45 PM
A/C activates the 2nd radiator fan, so a great idea! As long as you did not run your fuel SUPERlow for the track, LOL!
I'm glad someone else knows this nifty little trick. I have the manual switch for one fan and kick the a/c on low if i want to get the other moving. Effective for how simple it is.
Kudos to Irondoor for making this work. Please update with data when you're able to test it before or at the track.
Why will this not work with the stock grill?
the stock grill is two layers and Quite a bit DEEPER, and IT IS now sitting in my office, SO
I am ACTUALLY not SURE if this could be attempted with the stock GRILL,
SO I will revert and take a LOOK and report back by Sat to see if it is possible to do with Stock Grill
Might be ok for the 2013+ tho ...?
OK:
here is the Skinny.. I did not want to relocate the AIR Temp Sensor in the Front of the stack,
So i mounted the whole Assembly on an Angle in front of that Sensor. IF that were Relocated,
it may be possible.. AS it stands the Aftermarket Grill is 1/4" to 1/2" thick... and the fan on the
right side (looking at the Front) the wiring is touching the Grill, SO i have the stock grill in a box,
and the thickness is 1-1/2" to 2" (To some of the Mounting Tabs the hold the two pieces together)
I think that if some ONE with a stock grill Car were to pull the Top cover, (if there is 3")
IT IS POSSIBLE, you actually need a bit more than 2.5" of space to get this done...
Quote from: Macgyver on September 27, 2017, 09:24:39 PM
Very nice mod. How loud is it. Just curious.
I know the tracks dont want water dripping on the track. But what about a very fine water mist system in combination with this setup? Sorta like the NFL uses on the side lines. Then activate for short periods before and then during the run. So to avoid any chance of dripping.
Now onto the Dry Ice idea. What about a custom Dry Ice type of Inter cooler. Not a traditional air flow cooler but like a water to air thats just vented a little to let off the pressure of the CO2. Obviously it would need a fill cap (radiator cap?) That would make the internal IC cooling fins Super cold.
Fans Running:.....
Quote from: SHOdded on September 27, 2017, 05:19:45 PM
A/C activates the 2nd radiator fan, so a great idea! As long as you did not run your fuel SUPERlow for the track, LOL!
I vaguely recall Doug running his first Gen SHO at the track way back when and I think he would unplug the connector to his A/C compressor so that it could not physically turn on and would then set the dial to A/C.
That way it would run both fans, but not have the A/C actually running.
Here are a couple Diagrams of the Cooling Fans and Grille shutter actuator.
Best of luck irondoor19. Z
(https://i.imgur.com/RWTuv2rh.png?1)(https://i.imgur.com/UJvrLVSh.png?1)
did some testing with the OEM fans today. results below
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new
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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 01, 2017, 07:49:38 PM
did some testing with the OEM fans today. results below
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice:.... Once we get the 2ND fan Switch in, we will do the
same Experiment with 1 FAN running, then ALL FANS running.. HA
Quote from: irondoor19 on October 02, 2017, 11:04:32 AM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 01, 2017, 07:49:38 PM
did some testing with the OEM fans today. results below
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice:.... Once we get the 2ND fan Switch in, we will do the
same Experiment with 1 FAN running, then ALL FANS running.. HA
Couple questions about your setup:
What material did you use to make the grill and how did you secure it?
How much voltage is all of this gonna draw from the battery?
How long do you anticipate running the fans for?
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 02, 2017, 12:38:26 PM
Quote from: irondoor19 on October 02, 2017, 11:04:32 AM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 01, 2017, 07:49:38 PM
did some testing with the OEM fans today. results below
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1529.msg126859/boardseen.html#new)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice:.... Once we get the 2ND fan Switch in, we will do the
same Experiment with 1 FAN running, then ALL FANS running.. HA
Couple questions about your setup:
What material did you use to make the grill and how did you secure it?
How much voltage is all of this gonna draw from the battery?
How long do you anticipate running the fans for?
OK:
Grill was bought from Guy on Facebook Selling custom Grills.
VOLTAGE: A TON, 9 Amps per the Spec Sheet, Will let you know Actual When we test IT,
Again i am planning on running a Jump pack to power IT
About 15 Min Between Runs, but that remains to be SEEN, again testing to come...! ;D
Finally finished up this install, ;D
Hard wired the Fan set to the Battery (with 25 Amp Fuse inline)
Installed a Push button On/Off Switch
ordered up the Battery Jump/Start Pack ProSeries (Model PSJ-1612-CA)
Picked because of 22 AMP Hr battery set (should be able to run the fans for 2-3 Hours Total)
Quote from: irondoor19 on October 11, 2017, 12:32:17 PM
Finally finished up this install, ;D
Hard wired the Fan set to the Battery (with 25 Amp Fuse inline)
Installed a Push button On/Off Switch
ordered up the Battery Jump/Start Pack ProSeries (Model PSJ-1612-CA)
Picked because of 22 AMP Hr battery set (should be able to run the fans for 2-3 Hours Total)
Nice. I'm sure you'll have great results. After my recent experience at the track i'm almost wondering if this setup isn't overkill though. with just 1 of the OEM fans running and hood up my IAT's dropped to the low 100's in about 30-40 minutes.
If there's not many cars at the track and you're pretty much gonna hot lap i could see needing a bigger setup like this though. Should cool the heads and block real quick!
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 11, 2017, 08:35:14 PM
Quote from: irondoor19 on October 11, 2017, 12:32:17 PM
Finally finished up this install, ;D
Hard wired the Fan set to the Battery (with 25 Amp Fuse inline)
Installed a Push button On/Off Switch
ordered up the Battery Jump/Start Pack ProSeries (Model PSJ-1612-CA)
Picked because of 22 AMP Hr battery set (should be able to run the fans for 2-3 Hours Total)
Nice. I'm sure you'll have great results. After my recent experience at the track i'm almost wondering if this setup isn't overkill though. with just 1 of the OEM fans running and hood up my IAT's dropped to the low 100's in about 30-40 minutes.
If there's not many cars at the track and you're pretty much gonna hot lap i could see needing a bigger setup like this though. Should cool the heads and block real quick!
Since I only have about 110.00 In this total,
It is a no Brainier - I hope 15 to 20 Min Cool Down
Will be doing Test and tune 1 or 2 Sundays in Oct to test the results....