I have been using quite a few synthetic oils since purchasing my car new from Amsoil sig series,Royal purple,Redline,and now switched over to Pennzoil ulta platinum,seems like very good quality overall and have not sent a sample to blackstone for any oil analysis but at the current price on Amazon for 38.65 seems more like a winner without having to break the bank like many other full sythetics on the market. Z http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JMCCGDQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JMCCGDQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) BTW at the current sale price will probably stock up while the promotion is stll going on.
Check out Walmart too! They have 5 quart jugs of it for 28
Nevermind, its only the platinum not ultra platinum
The platinum is still better then most in my opinion but you can order the ultra on their website I believe. I've been using pennzoil for years and have never once had an issue with their products. With all of my previous builds 5 builds in my mustangs and Cobras , I've always used the Dino oil for break in and kept using it up until they came out with the platinum and ultra platinum and then made the switch. Great stuff. After building my engines and running the Dino and then switching to the plat or UP I did notice that the motors always seemed a tad quieter as well as feels smoother. Have yet to send anything out to blackstone but I really don't feel the need to. Were I in an all out race car then yeah, I could see the benefit but for the average home mechanic habitual maintenance intervals is always the key to a long living and happy motor. My 2 cents. But I do love the stuff.
Quote from: wraitherx on July 06, 2015, 12:32:53 PM
The platinum is still better then most in my opinion but you can order the ultra on their website I believe. I've been using pennzoil for years and have never once had an issue with their products. With all of my previous builds 5 builds in my mustangs and Cobras , I've always used the Dino oil for break in and kept using it up until they came out with the platinum and ultra platinum and then made the switch. Great stuff. After building my engines and running the Dino and then switching to the plat or UP I did notice that the motors always seemed a tad quieter as well as feels smoother. Have yet to send anything out to blackstone but I really don't feel the need to. Were I in an all out race car then yeah, I could see the benefit but for the average home mechanic habitual maintenance intervals is always the key to a long living and happy motor. My 2 cents. But I do love the stuff.
I hate oil posts like this....It's just that....2 lousy cents...Nothing scientific. As long as the sump is full, most of the time Wolf's Head and bottom barrel coastal oil will keep the motor running.
I always thought the most expensive over the counter "fake synthetics" were the best such as Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1 and so on until I read about group IV base stocks...Basically you either know about them or you dont'. And if you don't you are probably the guy that refuses to believe in extended drain intervals and believe in 3-5k oil changes because your grand daddy says that's the way to go
I do believe that true synthetic based oils hold up better as ajp says. I have been an Amsoil sig syn fan, but forgot my Amsoil at the last change... I have 100k mile prepaid Ford maintenance on the SHO. My dealer offers Penzoil ultra for a $20 option and it is actually better as far as volatility, which is my 1st concern after lubricity. PU is very comparable. The Amsoil I buy adds about $60 to each oil change... May have to switch for $40 saved each oil change. Since my dealer does the rest under the policy I do change every 5k miles.
Be sure to get Pennzoil Ultra, not Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for Amsoil SS comparability.
I don't think they make ultra anymore. Just platinum and ultra platinum. I can't find the ultra platinum at Walmart or advance auto. Just platinum
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I did see an Ultra Euro product on Amazon, no idea if it is the "old" Ultra in new labeling.
I was looking at the Penzzoil site and ultra or ultra euro is not listed. Z http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/ (http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/) Explains the 10.00 off.
If you WANT to try the Ultra, this site still offers it:
http://www.kellerheartt.com/Pennzoil-Ultra-5W-20-p/550020167.htm (http://www.kellerheartt.com/Pennzoil-Ultra-5W-20-p/550020167.htm)
http://www.kellerheartt.com/Pennzoil-Ultra-5W-30-p/550020166.htm (http://www.kellerheartt.com/Pennzoil-Ultra-5W-30-p/550020166.htm)
Chicago, IL based
$53/case + free S/H
check walmart mine has 5 quart jugs for 27 dollars
I still find the ultra on the Penzoil site:
http://m.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/?gclid=cms1ijt66mycfcnhfgodokydra (http://m.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/?gclid=cms1ijt66mycfcnhfgodokydraMy)
My dealer offers it as a $20 upgrade to standard oil change.
Quote from: panther427 on July 20, 2015, 01:03:46 AM
check walmart mine has 5 quart jugs for 27 dollars
Is this for PUP, panther?
Quote from: BiGMaC on July 20, 2015, 01:19:01 AM
I still find the ultra on the Penzoil site:
http://m.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/?gclid=cms1ijt66mycfcnhfgodokydra (http://m.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/?gclid=cms1ijt66mycfcnhfgodokydraMy)
My dealer offers it as a $20 upgrade to standard oil change.
I didnt see the ultra on the site,could be the gold (semi-synthetic)has replaced it. Z
Quote from: SHOdded on July 20, 2015, 04:37:01 AM
Quote from: panther427 on July 20, 2015, 01:03:46 AM
check walmart mine has 5 quart jugs for 27 dollars
Is this for PUP, panther?
Yes Sir The Dark Grey bottle.. My Advanced has the German Castrol and European Formula Penz Ultra.. its 0w-40 i think the one with the Ferarri Logo on it.. ITS SO TEMPTING lol
Couple of UOA's for a Saturn Ion Redline running on Pennzoil Ultra (not PUP):
You could use a better oil like Amsoil and actually come out saving money with the longer intervals for changing it, all while treating your internals to a bath in the finest synthetics around.
A case (12 quarts) is good for 2 changes and can be bought for right at a $100 once signed up as a preferred customer ($10/6 months). So you're at $110 for the 5w/30 Sig series and PC account + about $10 shipping, equalling $120 for 2 oil changes worth. At $60 a change, you could easily double (triple would be no issue, but we'll just use double) the amount of miles taking your cost down to $30/change!!!
I personally went from Mobil 1 to Amsoil and couldn't believe the difference. Engine noise down at least 50 %, and she's running smoother than ever!
That is why I have become an independent dealer for Amsoil. In our high heat turbo applications Amsoil is a must IMO and the stats back it up.
I will be setting up a vendor area here shortly...was waiting to announce until I get all my ducks in a row.
Www.motorcitysynthetics.myamsoil.com
Any questions feel free to ask, and there's a plethora of info through the links on the Amsoil websites.
Thx
Rich
Amsoil = something me and SHOnUup can agree on lol...the man don't lie amsoil is as good as advertised the secret is getting out
Quote from: ajpturbo on August 19, 2015, 07:12:58 AM
Amsoil = something me and SHOnUup can agree on lol...the man don't lie amsoil is as good as advertised the secret is getting out
With me about to open up a vendor spot here...one of my main concerns is now alleviated. I've been thinking, "oh how I hope AJ is an Amsoil fan"...lol.
WHEW!!!
Rich
LOL...you see my sig right!...well the only thing I don't have is amsoil brake fluid...but I don't really have the energy to do that and I don't road race so I guess I'll be alright..maybe one day
Quote from: ajpturbo on August 19, 2015, 07:59:59 AM
LOL...you see my sig right!...well the only thing I don't have is amsoil brake fluid...but I don't really have the energy to do that and I don't road race so I guess I'll be alright..maybe one day
I'm on tapatalk most of the time...so I miss out on people's sigs.
Rich
BTW, I agree with most of what you say...just not on how some of it comes out. But I imagine we could sit back and have a couple cold ones no problem discussing the same stuff...if I could keep up with your knowledge that is.
Rich
Over the years and speaking with reps from many different companies I have learned that consistency is key. We recently had a meeting and short informative presentation with the guys from Joe Gibbs oil. Much of the meeting involved explanations of the different types of chemical / detergent packs that the major oil brands purchase. Most all of the companies oil is nearly identical other than these chemical pack blends that they add to the to make it their own. Your engine will adapt overtime to the type of oil you are using and the viscosity as well.
So if you run say XYZ brand 5w20 synthetic blend in your engine from day one it has acclimated to this. Some people will then start experimenting with different brands / blends, viscosity changes, etc due to sale prices or recommendations from others. Some engines can actually start to consume oil suddenly that never had the issue prior or start to smoke more especially on turbo applications that can be extremely sensitive by nature. After using oil in an engine for a while, carbon builds up that helps seal the piston rings against the cylinder wall. When you change oils, the new oil might use a stronger/different detergent package. What one oil's detergent package might allow to build up, another detergent sees as dirt and cleans it up disrupting the rings from sealing completely in the process.
So long story short even the rep from Joe Gibbs recommended to find a good oil brand after break in and stick with it. This will ensure the best outcome possible when it comes to longevity of your engine.
Quote from: SHOnUup on August 19, 2015, 08:12:56 AM
BTW, I agree with most of what you say...just not on how some of it comes out. But I imagine we could sit back and have a couple cold ones no problem discussing the same stuff...if I could keep up with your knowledge that is.
Rich
Exactly.....One thing the forums aren't good for is capturing personality and tone....I haven't met many people that are into cars that I can't enjoy a cold one or two or 12 with .....Anytime pal, I'd enjoy it...
Eh I'm not that smart, I'd love to pick the brains of some of the real tuners out there that do it for a living....But I have some good to offer now and gain.
I still supect your tune is a bit hot and your car may be a bit of a freak because your time is awesome and I'll admit I'm jealous. And once I get a couple things figured out your car is the reason I think lower 12's is possible without meth....And I think you have a good driver mod. And you may just of had a hell of a pass
Can you data log in a CSV format? I'd love to look at some of your logs...I know you have LMS so I don't know how it can be done.
Quote from: ajpturbo on August 19, 2015, 10:28:55 AM
Quote from: SHOnUup on August 19, 2015, 08:12:56 AM
BTW, I agree with most of what you say...just not on how some of it comes out. But I imagine we could sit back and have a couple cold ones no problem discussing the same stuff...if I could keep up with your knowledge that is.
Rich
Exactly.....One thing the forums aren't good for is capturing personality and tone....I haven't met many people that are into cars that I can't enjoy a cold one or two or 12 with .....Anytime pal, I'd enjoy it...
Eh I'm not that smart, I'd love to pick the brains of some of the real tuners out there that do it for a living....But I have some good to offer now and gain.
I still supect your tune is a bit hot and your car may be a bit of a freak because your time is awesome and I'll admit I'm jealous. And once I get a couple things figured out your car is the reason I think lower 12's is possible without meth....And I think you have a good driver mod. And you may just of had a hell of a pass
Can you data log in a CSV format? I'd love to look at some of your logs...I know you have LMS so I don't know how it can be done.
I can through Torque...not very accurate at a tenth interval. But it can be sent in CSV format via email no problem from Torque.
Rich
Good info. I was thinking of going full synthetic at the next oil change at the Ford dealer.
Maybe, since I have 59k on the SHO, I should just stick with the Motorcraft synthetic blend I've always used?
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Quote from: markssho on August 19, 2015, 08:34:10 PM
Good info. I was thinking of going full synthetic at the next oil change at the Ford dealer.
Maybe, since I have 59k on the SHO, I should just stick with the Motorcraft synthetic blend I've always used?
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I switched over to Amsoil at 44k...best thing I've done as a maintenance item yet I feel.
Any more questions feel free to PM me.
Rich
Upgrade to the full synthetic. Pennzoil ultra platinum is a fantastic oil and comes in the hellcat engine from the factory. Amsoil has a great rep in the racing community. Either would be a great choice.
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Quote from: curry67 on August 19, 2015, 09:17:50 PM
Upgrade to the full synthetic. Pennzoil ultra platinum is a fantastic oil and comes in the hellcat engine from the factory. Amsoil has a great rep in the racing community. Either would be a great choice.
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My buddy with a Hellcat is making the switch to Amsoil next change. I'm a little anxious to hear his thoughts.
Rich
Not to impressed with the motorcraft full sythetic. Noticeably louder idle and when at wot compared to pennzoil Plat but I still haven't matched how smooth the engine is initially after a Mobil 1 change then it went away after 1k miles
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Quote from: curry67 on August 19, 2015, 10:33:30 PM
Not to impressed with the motorcraft full sythetic. Noticeably louder idle and when at wot compared to pennzoil Plat but I still haven't matched how smooth the engine is initially after a Mobil 1 change then it went away after 1k miles
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If you make the switch to Amsoil, you'll be quite surprised on how much quieter it is...and it lasts at least 4k (my personal experience). If I wasn't so OCD about changing it after ventures to the track or dragway I'd have a bigger interval to attest to. But at 4k it came out in a light brown manner compared to the black look Mobil 1 leaves the motor in.
Rich
Quote from: markssho on August 19, 2015, 08:34:10 PM
Good info. I was thinking of going full synthetic at the next oil change at the Ford dealer.
Maybe, since I have 59k on the SHO, I should just stick with the Motorcraft synthetic blend I've always used?
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We personally run full synthetic in most all builds here. We use Royal Purple, Brad Penn, and Joe Gibbs depending on the vehicle and customer's preference. Ams Oil makes a great product as well as Rich mentioned as well. I know most all guys I have known to make the switch to Ams Oil have become big advocates and stuck with it which is a good sign.
The biggest thing to be honest is sticking with synthetic if you make the switch. People that jump back and fourth end up with confused engine seal properties which promote oil consumption. The only time I have honestly been against switching to full synthetic were high mileage vehicles. I have witnessed a friend of mine years back that switched to full synthetic in a Ford 4.0 L after he purchased the vehicle. It burned through 3-4 quarts and developed a smoking issue as well in about a month from the service.
Consider NOAC volatility too since CC blowby is recycled into your turbo intakes coking turbo blades and intake valves... Amsoil and PUP (if you can find it) are the clear winners here.
Not only that, but the viscosity index should hold up as compared to oem spec for 5w30. For example, full synthetic mobil 1 is usually a thinner-behaving oil than say, Motorcraft syn blend. That can be too thin to fill the gap between contact surfaces.
Quote from: SHOdded on August 20, 2015, 04:30:13 PM
Not only that, but the viscosity index should hold up as compared to oem spec for 5w30. For example, full synthetic mobil 1 is usually a thinner-behaving oil than say, Motorcraft syn blend. That can be too thin to fill the gap between contact surfaces.
Are you thinking that it would be advisable to go to a 10/W/30 Mobil 1 from the 5/W/20?
Not at all. You could go to 5W30 from 5W20, but going to 10W is definitely not a good idea. You could go 0W30 if you like.
My point was that before deciding on an appropriate oil, you should compare the PDS (product data sheets) and choose a product with superior specifications (e.g., flow characteristics) to OE. Higher flash points and lower pour points, for example. BTW, a higher viscosity index means a higher resistance to viscosity change/shearing under standardized conditions. That is a good thing. BUT we don't want to significantly deviate from the viscosity itself as specified by OE.
Quote from: SHOdded on August 21, 2015, 10:02:18 AM
Not at all. You could go to 5W30 from 5W20, but going to 10W is definitely not a good idea. You could go 0W30 if you like.
My point was that before deciding on an appropriate oil, you should compare the PDS (product data sheets) and choose a product with superior specifications (e.g., flow characteristics) to OE. Higher flash points and lower pour points, for example. BTW, a higher viscosity index means a higher resistance to viscosity change/shearing under standardized conditions. That is a good thing. BUT we don't want to significantly deviate from the viscosity itself as specified by OE.
Ahh....I see what you are saying!