Short story: My passenger rear lateral link (some people call them rear tie-rods) had some play to it. Was found when I went in for an alignment as I did not notice any issues while driving.
Long story: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7087.msg115835.html#msg115835 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7087.msg115835.html#msg115835)
Thanks to pmezo33 (and ZSHO for pointing me to pmezo33's thread) as he found that the 2010-2011 links seem to be the same as the 2013+ and saved me a bunch of money.
Through Tasca the 2011 SHO brought up:
8A5Z-5A972-B and DE9Z-5A972-B - about $130 each.
DE9Z-5A972-B - about $36 each. This is the one you want.
I am by no means a professional and if you have a better / smarter way to accomplish anything listed below please do so. I'm a professional telecom guy and a car enthusiast and wouldn't want it the other way around :)
I used the following tools:
1 ) Jack / Jackstands
2 ) Breaker Bar and whatever size socket the wheel lugs take
3 ) 18mm Open Ended Wrench
4 ) 8mm Wrench (I used a ratcheting one)
5 ) 15mm Deep Socket (Shorty should work fine)
6 ) 10in extension & 2 in extension (your mileage may vary depending on socket length)
7 ) Ratchet
8 ) 22mm wrench (I had a line wrench)
9 ) Adjustable wrench
Step 1:
With the vehicle in Park, chock front tires and set parking brake. Brake lugs loose on 1 side of the car then jack it up and support it on jack stands. Finish removing the wheel and set aside.
Step 2: Use 18mm wrench and 8mm wrench to remove the nut from the tie-rod like end of the link. Use the 8mm to hold the stud still so it doesn't spin then loosen the nut with the 18mm.
Once removed you'll see the hub assembly give a bit as this was holding it in a specific position. in order to fully remove you may need push the assembly back towards where it was previously and then gently tap with a hammer. Using the jack can also help maneuver it by raising the assembly slightly while you push.
Step 3: Using the 15mm socket, extensions, and ratchet remove the bolt that goes through the bushing. There is a nut on the other side but you cannot reach it. It does appear to be fastened so it does not spin or drop out of place.
The link should slide out of place easily now.
Step 4: Compare your new link and adjuster positioning (I don't know the technical terms). Try to match them up as best you can and tighten the nuts finger tight.
Step 5: Put new link in place and use the 15mm to tighten the bold in place. The bolt has some sort of taper on the tip so lining it up was fairly easy.
Step 6: Muscle the hub in place and drop the tie-rod end down into the hole. Use the 18mm and 8mm wrenches to put the nut back on.
Step 7: Using the Adjustable wrench to hold the center piece, use the 22mm wrench to tighten the nuts while keeping your alignment as close as possible to the original settings.
I did my best and mine were WAY out of wack anyways... dog tracking bad. But you'll need an alignment afterwards anyways so whatever you end up with should be fixed within a few miles of doing this.
Step 8: Put your tire back on, Drop the car back down, torque the lugs, and repeat for the other side.
Step 9: Get an Alignment.
Here are a couple of pictures I was able to take. Not much to show during the process but it may help someone:
Can you guess which one is the new one?
(https://i.imgur.com/QEem451h.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/YrwnCzXh.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/6yLX8vYh.jpg)
Picture of bolt that goes through bushing. Both bolts looked the same:
(https://i.imgur.com/kNrSTRih.jpg)
New link going in:
(https://i.imgur.com/lCZ0WMvh.jpg)
Alignment sheet for those curious. This was with H&R lowering springs done and yes they got the camber in spec without the camber bolts:
(https://i.imgur.com/FUc218nh.jpg)
Car is back in business and driving great again. Thanks again to all on this forum for your help. Feel free to let me know if I missed anything.
Awesome write up!!!!! Thanks!!!
Thank you for taking the time :thumb:
X2 Thanks for taking the time for an awesome"Writeup". Z :)
Nice write up - sounds very familiar.
Just wanted to add the torque specs for the knuckle / ball joint bolt is 59 foot pounds and the bushing bolt to the frame is 52 foot pounds.