First does anyone know what pressure I should be expecting from the A/C system at idle and then at like 1500-2000 rpm cruising? I have an MX Bluetooth scanner and forscan. I think I have a leak somewhere that the tech at the Ford dealer near me couldn't find. I brought the car in for a no AC issue. They said they charged it up and put in dye to see if they could spot a leak. Picked car up late next day and it was still working fine, nice and icy cold. A couple of weeks later and it's just not keeping up. On the few hot days last week in DC traffic it was just blowing warm air either on A/C or Max A/C. Before I brought it to the dealer, I swear I could hear the hissing behind the dash like the evaporator was getting charged, but it just never stopped hissing until I turned off the A/C or when it seemed to have all escaped. Is it possible for the evaporator behind the dash to spring a leak? Any other ideas?
I think you should see around 30-35 psi on low side and around 175 psi on the High side dependent on ambient temps! Should see around 38-46 psi when cruising.
I know ultimately its a sliding Scale relative to Humidity and on average the Evaporator runs close to 32,out the Center Vent and can go Up to 45 deg IIRC correctly!
I'm currently in the same boat and will update on any findings. Z
Did you hear the hissing noise inside the cabin? I swear it was working fine I heard a constant hissing, even if temp was turned up to say 75 on the days where it has been 60 in the morning. The hissing only stopped when I turned off A/C and also stopped after a few weeks, which is when the A/C stopped working completely. I'm wondering if they could see a leak on inside of cabin by using the dye? So 206-241 kPa on low side, 1206 kPa on high side and 262-317 kPa when cruising. I haven't changed Forscan over and am using default units. What PID are you looking at in Forscan?
Be prepared for a bad compressor. Has happened on occasion on the SHO.
This was based on Recover and Recharge System machine which was to no avail! Z
Typical should see 200 max of 400
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SHOdded may be correct, a compressor gone or going. a leak would be preferable, but a consistent leak could put major strain on the compressor.
Sbouvia, is the hissing sound the only one you notice? what about a droning sound coming from the car when the AC is on?
Also, in the MKS we have an air recirculation button, do you have this in the SHO?
try pressing it and see if the AC runs any different.
FWIW- I would try adding some R-134-Freon to see if it engages the compressor while monitoring the longevity of the A/C especially with the warmer temps and constant use! Fingers crossed! Z
R-134-a 1.81 lbs - 29 oz (https://i.imgur.com/9lI8Yvmh.jpg)
No droning sound in car when AC is on. I'll try the recirculating button but I do not think it makes a difference. When I hit max ac the recirc comes on and it's still warm air. I've been meaning to put a thermometer to the outlets to see what temp air is coming out. Maybe a dumb question but is there a way I can see how much R-134A is in the system? Also should I be following the GTDI and not the police version seeing as I'm not a police version TiVCT, so 26oz?
Quote from: Gjkrisa on May 06, 2019, 09:11:09 PM
Typical should see 200 max of 400
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I assume you mean kPa. And is that at all times?
Quote from: Sbouvia on May 08, 2019, 09:39:05 PM
Quote from: Gjkrisa on May 06, 2019, 09:11:09 PM
Typical should see 200 max of 400
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I assume you mean kPa. And is that at all times?
No it's psi it's what I saw before adding more there was an issue with my guage I was using to fill it that didn't move at all but was recording Tru torque and started getting ac deactivation at 400 psi the day I filled it it was 80f then when I saw it over 400 it was 95f
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From a 2009 Edge manual
(https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9913.0;attach=20388;image)
Quote from: Sbouvia on May 08, 2019, 09:37:15 PM
No droning sound in car when AC is on. I'll try the recirculating button but I do not think it makes a difference. When I hit max ac the recirc comes on and it's still warm air. I've been meaning to put a thermometer to the outlets to see what temp air is coming out. Maybe a dumb question but is there a way I can see how much R-134A is in the system? Also should I be following the GTDI and not the police version seeing as I'm not a police version TiVCT, so 26oz?
Don't add to much Freon,just wait until you hear the compressor-clutch engage cause sometimes less is more!
There are some R-134-a Kits that come with a low pressure gauge connector. Z
R134a is very exacting. It is easy to have too little or too much. Use a pro set of gauges to confirm, not the ones that come with AC in a Can products.
It seems a Rock made it through the Front Grille Fascia @ High Speeds and made a fairly large Hole in the Condensor! :>:D
Charge System Install DYE with BLACK LIGHT and Found Condenser Leaking and will need To Evaluate and Replace Condensor and Recharge and Test and inspect for any other Leaks throughout the System.
I will need to remove the Front Bumper in order to gain access to the Condensor!
One Positive Note I DO NOT have the Ford collision warning which is found on the NON-PP-SHO version and might make the process a Tad bit easier AFAIK!
It might be beneficial for me to order a new UpGraded CAC (Intercooler) since it's in the same vicinity area! Maybe -perhaps!!!! :coolgleam:
To the OP Hope your issue is far less complicated than mine. Z
Ford Part No.: BA5Z-19712-A Condensor Assy
$203.33
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-condenser-asy_ba5z-19712-a.html?Vin=1FAHP2KT5DG183206&Filter=()&Location=air-conditioning-condenser-compressor,,19712 (https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-condenser-asy_ba5z-19712-a.html?Vin=1FAHP2KT5DG183206&Filter=()&Location=air-conditioning-condenser-compressor,,19712)
Heck of a lot cheaper than a compressor! Def, get that CAC lined up :D
Quote from: SHOdded on May 10, 2019, 03:45:22 PM
Heck of a lot cheaper than a compressor! Def, get that CAC lined up :D
True Indeed! I might order a Ambient Temp sensor for a peace of mind since its in the same location! Z
$7.86Ambient Air Temperature Sensor -MOTORCRAFT DY1160 - AU5Z12A647B
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2603322&cc=1503823&jsn=762 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2603322&cc=1503823&jsn=762)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,heat+&+air+conditioning,ambient+air+temperature+sensor,7000 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,heat+&+air+conditioning,ambient+air+temperature+sensor,7000)
:bigthanx: To Sir SHOdded for the Front Bumper Removal PDF Links which will come in Handy Dandy! Z :thumb:
To the OP Don't mean to Hijack your thread. Z
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kYW5qZOpnggaUv3yAxjsc-OXGia3h_i9n2qr4iGf1_Bkc8tbGjsRcX2n_DAbrlVX6QoJvYJ3kUQLwj9Q/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10pXBK2e6jjnG8vU3nmAnMU9Vy7HmbAjvtbapZp82j1DGeiFhRG50jRSgHgB_pz1c6n2S6dyMFr_H8RSm/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/125uaU8NM8O4Cw6bLPwloqc5SM6o1ACeZxY1am7kfmpu40o3dbTcZ7pIqwXBk49r2FTv9oOED_3mjGs0w/view?usp=drivesdk
Quote from: ZSHO on May 10, 2019, 03:26:44 PM
It seems a Rock made it through the Front Grille Fascia @ High Speeds and made a fairly large Hole in the Condensor! :>:D
Charge System Install DYE with BLACK LIGHT and Found Condenser Leaking and will need To Evaluate and Replace Condensor and Recharge and Test and inspect for any other Leaks throughout the System.
I will need to remove the Front Bumper in order to gain access to the Condensor!
One Positive Note I DO NOT have the Ford collision warning which is found on the NON-PP-SHO version and might make the process a Tad bit easier AFAIK!
It might be beneficial for me to order a new UpGraded CAC (Intercooler) since it's in the same vicinity area! Maybe -perhaps!!!! :coolgleam:
To the OP Hope your issue is far less complicated than mine. Z
Ford Part No.: BA5Z-19712-A Condensor Assy
$203.33
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-condenser-asy_ba5z-19712-a.html?Vin=1FAHP2KT5DG183206&Filter=()&Location=air-conditioning-condenser-compressor,,19712 (https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-condenser-asy_ba5z-19712-a.html?Vin=1FAHP2KT5DG183206&Filter=()&Location=air-conditioning-condenser-compressor,,19712)
Well at least you got yours figured out. They couldn't find any leaks but suspected condenser when I brought it in. Ever heard of having a leaky evaporator behind the dash? Not saying my issue but the constant hiss of AC filling the system has me thinking it's something with evaporator. I don't know,if I've really heard that before, but now I am paying much more attention.
Quick update on my end. SHO and A/C has taken back seat to getting wife's Jeep back together. The other day she picked me up from work and I was like wow the AC is nice and cold on the passenger side. Stuck my hand over to drivers side vent and it was warm air. We both had temperature set at 65 on an 85 degree day. So now I think it may be the drivers side blend door seeing as it is only having the issue on that side I suppose. Is there something in forscan to monitor the blend door percent open or something? Eventually I will be putting a thermometer in the vents to see what temp air is coming out. Hopefully after this weekend wife's Jeep will be rolling again, so I can tackle the SHO.
I would change both Blend door actuators located inside the passenger Glove box! I believe they both have the same part number for reference IIRC! Z
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3102459&cc=1503823&jsn=10528 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3102459&cc=1503823&jsn=10528)
Passenger actuator
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,495 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,495)
I think there is a blower motor duty cycle in Forscan, but not sure about a blend door %. Many codes can set related to the blend doors, so there MIGHT be a PID. Again, not sure.
There is a left and a right blend door you can see (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190523/2f0071d41147cf82df7d61ceb8fb643f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190523/56864707855dd82d77ebb44186264703.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190523/64057169b43b0326689b6cbc93ab36a1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190523/9aa0b4f9770b9882589019c77a42d529.jpg)
During car start I saw 1% then as I changed temp from 65 to 70 then back to 65 I saw those changes in the hvac module
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Sweet. thanks!
There are 2 actuators as mentioned ^^^
One is next to the cabin filter and one is behind the center console.
Both can be accessed & seen through the Glove box. Z
There might be a recalibration routine for the hvac module, like a secret combo. It works on the Edge with auto climate control, might on the SHO also. Youtube it.
So yes, I can see the blend door positions in Forscan and they look fairly close except the drivers one is at a different position than the passengers even at same temperature. According to FSM I need to remove fuse 15 from smart junction box for one minute and then turn on power for at least 30 seconds to have the blend doors recalibrate. I cannot find the location of said smart junction box in the FSM but I think it may be the junction box at drivers kick panel. Issue is fuse 15 according to owners manual has nothing to do with HVAC, that's fuse 47. It is definitely not in the PDC under the hood. Also per the FSM there is one blend door actuator to the left of the dash and the one behind the glove box. I swear there was a third for some sort of temperature control but I only see two listed in FSM. There is a second one at the glove box but it is listed as the mode door actuator, which seems to be working.
two blend door actuators and two mode door actuators.
yes, the fuse panel under the driver dash is the SJB/BCM. The owner's manual descriptions are often incomplete, the FSM is the reference where functionality is concerned. Anyhoo, Fuse 46 seems to be the only one listed as related to climate control, that is the one I would pull. Dunno where F15 and F47 are being drawn from, perhaps a 2010-12 SHO?
Sometimes removing the Ground and Positive Battery Terminals for an hour will reset to Default! Z
In forscan thru the phone there is a test to reset the hvac blend door module
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Update. Tried the reset via forscan didn't work. Tried the pull fuse reset didn't work. Didn't want to do the whole hard reset with battery cables cause everything else is working good. I'm going to order a drivers blend door and see if that fixes the issue. As far as I know the relearn procedure is just pull fuse 46 for a few minutes and put it back in. The reset HVAC module in forscan has you turn off ignition, then turn on ignition but not engine to finalize. Question, so with the push button does the ignition off mean accessory power still active? I feel like I have to hit start button twice to get from off to ignition portion as if I hit it once it only shows as accessory power active. Of course keep my foot off the brake pedal so engine doesn't start. Thanks for everyone's help.
Quote from: Sbouvia on May 30, 2019, 07:18:42 PM
Update. Tried the reset via forscan didn't work. Tried the pull fuse reset didn't work. Didn't want to do the whole hard reset with battery cables cause everything else is working good. I'm going to order a drivers blend door and see if that fixes the issue. As far as I know the relearn procedure is just pull fuse 46 for a few minutes and put it back in. The reset HVAC module in forscan has you turn off ignition, then turn on ignition but not engine to finalize. Question, so with the push button does the ignition off mean accessory power still active? I feel like I have to hit start button twice to get from off to ignition portion as if I hit it once it only shows as accessory power active. Of course keep my foot off the brake pedal so engine doesn't start. Thanks for everyone's help.
Push button once is accessory mode! Need to hit the Push Button start twice in order to get to (ignition mode).\
I'm hoping the Blend door actuator does the trick. Z
Ok so finally an update. I finally got the cha cue to change drivers door blend door actuator and run through the reset both in forscan and by pulling fuse. Blend door on drivers side is moving just fine, however I still have crappy at best AC. I suppose it's back to the dealer unless I can find some gauges to see my levels of refrigerant. Does anyone know if the AC tools autozone has on the loan a tool program would be worth using? It's getting hot in northern Virginia and the humidity is a killer especially sitting in DC's amazing traffic
yes, autozone tools should be pro level tools, and unless a previous "renter" has hammered them, should work just fine.
The hissing sound behind the passenger side Dash has me a bit concerned pointing to a small leak in the system.
IMO would Recharge and evacuate the A/C System and think there is a $125.00 Diagnostic fee IIRC!
I'm glad the blend door actuators are fully functional once again and working as designed. Z
Temperature Blend Door Actuator — LHRemoval and Installation
NOTE: The LH temperature blend door actuator can be accessed from below the LH side of the instrument panel.
Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector, remove the 2 retainers and the LH temperature blend door actuator.
2.To install, reverse the removal procedure.
NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.
Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute.
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct LH temperature blend door operation.
https://youtu.be/IjLfyXCBw1k
I know I am replying so late but wanted to close the thread. Brought the car around the time of posting to a local mechanic and not the stealership and guess what they found a leaking condenser. Ordered a new part from Ford and it came a three days later but in a damaged box. Mechanic said the part had been damaged in transit and said he didn't want to put it in but would rather send it back and get another. He called me to let me know why the hold up. I said I was happy he called but even happier they just didn't install a possibly damaged part. Got the new one installed and the AC has been ice cold since. I trust the stealership about as far as I can throw my car.