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AJPTurbo boost regulator mod with EcoPowerParts charge pipes

Started by derfdog15, December 17, 2016, 07:04:19 PM

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derfdog15

Hey all,

As some may know, I am in the process of fabbing a way to do the AJPTurbo boost regulator mod onto my EPP charge pipes. To my knowledge this has yet to be done.

I will not have this complete until sometime in January but wanted to share current progress.

I ordered a TiAL MV-S wastegate for the wastegate. Per the specs, the inlet Vband should be welded to 1.75" OD pipe... this is where the issue occurs...  the Vband is stainless steel and must be welded to stainless steel, the hotpipes are aluminum... what to do?

To correct this, we need a way to connect aluminum and steel. This is where I struggled, I started by thinking of just using radiator hose as many have done on stock pipes, but was not feeling it. Then though of getting matched vbands , one set in stainless steel and one in aluminum to mate the pipe, again this seemed like it may not work, and would cost atleast $60 to test.

Cue the third idea... small section of stainless pipe, welded to the wastegate Vband, pre-bent aluminum pipe welded to the charge pipes, and a silicon hump connector with tbolt clamps to secure the pipes!

Today I did some prefab work, as I finally have all the parts (I can share the info on the parts later, with links, if requested).

Parts list:
60 degree bend aluminum pipe, 1.75" OD
70 degree bend aluminum pipe, 1.75" OD -- http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=PIP175-75&Category_Code=PIP175
1.75" OD stainless steel 'joiner' pipe -- http://www.siliconeintakes.com/turbo-piping/intercooler-pipe-fabrication-p-131.html
Hump connector and t-bolts -- http://www.siliconeintakes.com/hump-hose/turbo-coupler-p-428.html and 2x http://www.siliconeintakes.com/t-bolt-clamp/compressor-tbolt-p-107.html
Vband for the TiAL (supplied with wastegate) --https://www.importimageracing.com/tial-mvs-38mm-v-band-external-wastegate-universal.html#header-search -- they offer a 5% off code many times, as well as free shipping with the code, best price I found on a new in box TiAL

I have attached some mock up photos. I will need to shorten the aluminum pipe, and weld one side to the charge piping. On the other I will need to either weld back the section with the bead roll, or bead roll at the cut. For the stainless joiner I will simply put one end in the clamp. Yeah other end will be cut and welded to the Vband.

The hump connector is rigid enough that everything should be supported with ease, but will allow for slight movement with the engine as well as slight misalignment of the pipes.

Pics attached. Comments and suggestions welcome. I will update once more progress is made.


Other parts: I bought 10 ft of 6mm vacuum hose, http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liquid-air-adapter/aftermarket-boost-vacuum-hose-p-305.html

parts similar to the ones I am using for vacuum routing:

1x Brass pipe coupler : https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-56122-Fitting-Nipple/dp/B003NXYB5Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1482164870&sr=1-1

1x 1/8"hose x 1/4" NPT hose barb (for the boost gauge) : https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-57001-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B0058I180U/ref=zg_bs_6001529011_7?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=CBMSFF1ZKQ3B9SH6VD4Z&th=1

1x 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" 'T' to tap into the break booster line: https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-Fitting-Barstock-Female/dp/B00GVLGULA/ref=sr_1_15?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1482164870&sr=1-15

1x 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" cross: https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-Fitting-Barstock-Female/dp/B00D3CTW56/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1482164894&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A3052057011

2x 1/4"hose x 1/4" NPT hose barb (for line to BOV and wastegate): https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-57001-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B002SAO7XQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1482165158&sr=1-3&keywords=1%2F4%22hose+x+1%2F4%22+NPT

2x 3/8 "hose x 1/4" NPT hose barb (for break booster line): https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Brass-Fuel-Line-Threads/dp/B000MTCRDC


Thread seal tape: http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-520-in-Thread-Seal-Tape-31273/202206819

4x Hose clamps for the 6mm tubing, to secure on the barbs

2x Hose clamps for the brake booster line to secure on the barbs

1x Hose clamp for boost gauge line to the cross barb (I left it unclamped on the gauge, and have seen no issue)

To be honest, with barbed connections, the clamps can probably be skipped as a whole, but I feel better using them, just in case.

Original AJP Boost Regulator Mod: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6526.0
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

What about getting an aluminum vband flange? You could then have an aluminum elbow welded on and eliminate the hose joint.

I found these doing a quick search, so it seems they're out there: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/custom-aluminum-v-band-intake-flange-p-261.html

You might be able to buy one individually to save over the cost of the kit.


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2013 XSport

bpd1151

Nice to see innovation and ingenuity at work.

Revitalizes the platform for us "older" members, and continues fostering the "noobs" coming on board.

Applause for the efforts therein.

Commendable for sure! Continued successes!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Gjkrisa

I would of used jbweld epoxy then painted over but this sounds good also.
2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

derfdog15

Quote from: MiWiAu on December 17, 2016, 10:41:04 PM
What about getting an aluminum vband flange? You could then have an aluminum elbow welded on and eliminate the hose joint.

I found these doing a quick search, so it seems they're out there: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/custom-aluminum-v-band-intake-flange-p-261.html

You might be able to buy one individually to save over the cost of the kit.


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It was considered, but I would have to find a matching flange in Stainless Steel to mate up to it, since the aluminum pipe will only accept an alumuminum flange, and stainless will only accept a stainless flange. I found two that MAY work from this company : https://www.pacificp.com/

But at 70 just for two flange kits (had to buy male, female, and the clamp) I decided to go slightly cheaper with the hump hose and t-bolts (10 bucks vs. 70). The hump hose from silicon intakes is pretty dang stout, so should be fine to hold everything together.

Another issue with the V-bands is there are exhaust side (hot side) clamps, that are meant to expand to seal, and aluminum O-ring clamps meant for BOV/cold side work due to lower heat, since this application will see boost, I would have prefered an O-ring style (though the TiAL does not have them, and they would be more just for me) but that can complicate the V-band aluminum to stainless even more!

Quote from: bpd1151 on December 17, 2016, 11:12:03 PM
Nice to see innovation and ingenuity at work.

Revitalizes the platform for us "older" members, and continues fostering the "noobs" coming on board.

Applause for the efforts therein.

Commendable for sure! Continued successes!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk



Thanks BPD1151, means a lot coming from a vet like you.

Quote from: Gjkrisa on December 17, 2016, 11:42:26 PM
I would of used jbweld epoxy then painted over but this sounds good also.

I have never been a fan of JBweld, or products of that type. I tend to prefer good clean welds and actual fasteners when possible. I will be painting everything in high gloss black engine enamel once I am done with the fab work, or may even spring to get them powdercoated locally. I bought uncoated because of the fab that needs to be done, as the coating would only make it more tedious to prep for welding.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

AJP turbo

Its actuall pretty cool seeing the variations and spin offs from the way i did mine...i like seeing the evolution happen. Mine wasnt as clean and didnt look oem but i was happy with the results and it worked as intended ....way to go derf and miwau and steal blue
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

MiWiAu

Hmm, I see what you're saying, I think.

Personally, I used the "hot side" clamp that came with my Tial. I don't think I'm seeing any leaks since my wastegate duty cycle seems to be where it was pre-mod (until we cranked the boost. :)

I guess I was thinking you could weld the aluminum flange on your elbow and directly connect the gate to it. I'm not a metallurgist, so I'm not sure of the long term effects of mating T6061 to 304.

EDIT: I wonder if a thin layer of powder coat on the aluminum elbow/flange (as an insulator) would prevent galvanic corrosion and allow you to connect directly to the wastegate. It would also make your hot pipes pretty after welding. :)


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2013 XSport

MiWiAu

Quote from: AJP turbo on December 18, 2016, 11:18:07 AM
Its actuall pretty cool seeing the variations and spin offs from the way i did mine...i like seeing the evolution happen. Mine wasnt as clean and didnt look oem but i was happy with the results and it worked as intended ....way to go derf and miwau and steal blue

I'm just waiting for the letter in the mail form AJP Turbo's attorneys for patent infringement. ;)



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2013 XSport

StealBlueSho

I will say, I really liked having the option to switch between tunes that required the TiAL WG and those that didn't. So whichever way you go, it might be worth while looking into an easy way to block the hole on the pipe. For me, it was a simple vacuum line switch along with putting the noise maker back on. Took 5 minutes to swap things around.

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derfdog15

Quote from: MiWiAu on December 18, 2016, 11:20:32 AM
Hmm, I see what you're saying, I think.

Personally, I used the "hot side" clamp that came with my Tial. I don't think I'm seeing any leaks since my wastegate duty cycle seems to be where it was pre-mod (until we cranked the boost. :)

I guess I was thinking you could weld the aluminum flange on your elbow and directly connect the gate to it. I'm not a metallurgist, so I'm not sure of the long term effects of mating T6061 to 304.

EDIT: I wonder if a thin layer of powder coat on the aluminum elbow/flange (as an insulator) would prevent galvanic corrosion and allow you to connect directly to the wastegate. It would also make your hot pipes pretty after welding. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahh, i thought you were talking the stainless section to aluminum section. As far as an actual V-band to just have an aluminum piece to the waste gate, TiAL said they did not have one (they don't make them as they don't typically see a wastegate in this type of application). They use a mostly standard V-band, with slight variation, to accomidate the proprietary TiAL clamps. This means to do what you are talking, I would have to have a shop custom machine an aluminum flange. While it should work fine, it would also be pretty costly. The other advantage to doing it this way, is that if I decide I do not want to run the boost regulator mod for some reason, I can remove the section with the wastegate, and put a capped section in place, without having to cut and weld anything. That would also be possible with the V-band, but this way, I only have to go to a shop for final welding (and technically I am taking it to a friend at his job, so he can weld it when he gets the chance, and I can just pay him with a case of beer rather than paying actual cost of welding. I will weld the stainless myself with my dads welder, but he doesn't have a spool gun to do the aluminum welding.

Quote from: StealBlueSho on December 18, 2016, 08:07:47 PM
I will say, I really liked having the option to switch between tunes that required the TiAL WG and those that didn't. So whichever way you go, it might be worth while looking into an easy way to block the hole on the pipe. For me, it was a simple vacuum line switch along with putting the noise maker back on. Took 5 minutes to swap things around.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk



That was part of my reason for going with the hump hose, and doing it this way, if I decide I want to run a tune that does not need/use the mod, I can add a small section of capped pipe in its place.

I am going to run vacuum for the wastegate, my BOV, and the boost gauge, off of the current location of my boost gauge (brake booster line). I have a 'T' in place currently that goes to the boost gauge. I am going to remove the 1/4 x 1/8 rigged nipple, and replace it with a 1/4 x 1/4 coupler, into an 'X', then run a separate line from the 'X' for each of the three accessories. If I remove the wastegate for any reason, I can simply unbolt the nipple on the 'X' and put in a cap.

Though, if this goes anything like my mustang has, or my current use of the SHO, I will leave it on the tune that is the latest rev, because I like getting the most out of it whenever I tap the go pedal!

Quote from: AJP turbo on December 18, 2016, 11:18:07 AM
Its actuall pretty cool seeing the variations and spin offs from the way i did mine...i like seeing the evolution happen. Mine wasnt as clean and didnt look oem but i was happy with the results and it worked as intended ....way to go derf and miwau and steal blue

Would't be possible at all without the great log warlock, so thank you! And thank you for the support to all my random questions via email prior to set up. Thanks to StealBlue for answering my questions when I picked his brain as well. I'm honestly hoping that Mike may see this at some point, and re-consider adding this as an option to the charge pipes, to begin with, however, I also don't want that to happen so mine can be somewhat one-off.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

BOT_ROCKET

I'm looking into options for an aluminum flange. If I can't find anyone that makes them, I used to work at a machine shop that I could probably get some made for a reasonable price.
'17 Fusion Sport 2.7l Ecoboost AWD
Ortiz Tune  (in progress)

2017 Ford Fusion Sport, 1st stock run: 8.98 @ 77.15 MPH

derfdog15

Quote from: BOT_ROCKET on December 18, 2016, 11:51:13 PM
I'm looking into options for an aluminum flange. If I can't find anyone that makes them, I used to work at a machine shop that I could probably get some made for a reasonable price.

Well now ya tell us...

The only real info TiAL gave me was that their flanges are a "standard 20 degree pitch" but they said only their flanges work with their clamps...

The guys at PPE claimed their flanges are relatively standard and they thought they could work, but the issue with theirs (which were pretty much the only V-band I could find for the pipe size, is that they are O-ring clamps, and the actual TiAL seat is not set up for an O-ring type seal, which creates another issue. I did a lot of research trying to find an off the shelf clamp that would work before going with the silicon connector decision.

I do wish you luck however, and who knows what you will find, things change every day!
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

StealBlueSho

There is nothing wrong with a bit of rubber hose and a couple clamps...If you look at pictures of AJP's setup it was pretty clean..Without having to spend a lot of money on pipes/welding/fab... Just saying....I think total  I spent around $75.. and that includes the clamps, vacuum hose, Tee's, rubber hose, and custom bent dump pipe with the vband welded to it...

After the install it was pretty clean looking... The pictures I posted were just the rough in... I spent a bit of time and cleaned up rubber hose, positioning, etc...

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ZSHO

Definitely agree with StealBlueSho but IMO would use a high-heat temp silicone coupler/adapter such as HPS which are made for forced induction applications and they also make a wide variety of configurations. Z
https://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|