I recently ordered the Unleashed 3 inch down pipes, since not only were they cheaper than the 2.5 inch ones, but I figured why not?
They sound great! You can really here the turbo's spool up, and even thought the first set I was sent, the passenger side didn't seem to be welded correctly, causing the pipe to hit on the engine cradle, making it impossible to connect, Torrie has me send them back and sent me a new pair!
As far as the install goes:
It's basically the same as bpd1151's [http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,534.0.html]
A couple things to note, its good to have an impact wrench on hand (I know he says impact driver, however even with my impact gun I could hardly get a couple of the nuts off), Wobble extensions are great to have, for the driver side/front you might have to remove the oil filter. I didn't and ended up crushing it trying to remove the top bolt.
You will NEED bolts to attach the downpipes to the 3rd cat, I got nuts from Advanced Auto that are meant to stay on (they are slightly deformed so they won't back off, kind of like a nut with the nylon center)
It is also a lot easier to disconnect the 3rd cat from the two runner hangers to get it out of the way enough and not bolt either downpipe to it until they are both installed. A jack stand comes in handy to hold the downpipe up.
You DO NOT need a lift to install them either. A lift might make it easier, however I was able to do it with jack stands. I jacked the car up and used the jack stands on both sides of the control arm and another set under the jacking points, just to be safe. The driver side/front downpipe you have to be under the car to do, which is also the easier one. The passenger side downpipe, you actually need to go through the passenger side front wheel and its just right there.
I had a couple install problems with them however, and tried to fix it as best as I could.
Problem 1: Downpipe hit a metal shield on the driveshaft assembly
Solution: Removed the metal shield, there is a 10mm bolt on either side and the pipe fits in there. (See attachment 1)
Problem 2: Because of it being a 3" pipe, the flange doesn't seem to be quite big enough around the bolt holes to use the studs. I had this problem on both of the downpipes, really just one ear on each.
Solution: Go to Home Depot (Lowes didn't have them) and buy M10-1.5 x 40 mm Socket Cap bolts [http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-M10-1-5-x-40-mm-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Socket-Cap-Recessed-Hex-Screw-803498/204281941] Also, while there, you might want to pick up a 10mm hex socket (it's like $1.97)
The bolt has a small enough radius that it should sit flush with the flange, unlike a regular bolt or even the stud with the nut (See attachments) One thing to keep in mind, not all the holes in the turbo flange go straight through, so you might have to cut down the bolt.
Thank you for this write up. This will help me in about a month
So you had that same problem with those darn bolts too. I practically pulled the whole bolt with the nut out which you have depicted in picture too.
It rusted so bad that i could not separate the nut from the bolt.
Once i put on the downpipes, i noticed that the bolts wouldn't secure it all the way down due to the fact that the oem flanges and the new dp werent the same. So i placed a lock washer and worked perfectly.
Good thing i have lots of sockets with extensions on order to get them screws off
I pretty much had all those same issues. Removed the cover over axle and dented in converter a little bit to allow stud to go into new downside. Took a lot longer than I would have liked but Turbo spool up is much louder. Not much difference in exhaust sound with stock mufflers and piping. Took me about 4hrs when in theory should only take about an hour or so. Good write up!
Did your engine cover fit after the install?
I assume you mean the bottom skid plate for the engine, but yes, fits just fine! So does the top one ;)
:thumb:
Did you need to modify the skid plate for fitment?
Nope, fit on there just fine, no modifications or anything
I just finished installing my 3" downpipes and over all I am pretty happy with them...
Although I didn't have quite the same problems the OP did, and had a couple others he didn't..
I only needed the flangeless nuts in one location, although all of the nuts/bolts were replaced with the exception of the studs on the turbos. I used the allen caped bolts and new stainless nuts on the connector near the 3rd cat and reused all of the exhaust gaskets, even after 95k miles they were in usable condition.
Now the not so great... The skid plate ABSOLUTELY needs to be modified!!!! I don't know how the OP fit the skid plate back on, but id love some pics! The pipe is simply to big to fit under the plastic plate, particularly in the "aerodynamic" indention they mold into it. I will end up cutting a pretty large hole in the cover and may need to patch it with a bulge to accommodate the larger pipe and reinforce the plate. Also, I was a bit disappointed in the 02 sensor location on the forward pipe. The bung is on the forward edge of the pipe, pointing down toward the ground at a 45' angle.. When you look at the cars profile, the 02 sensor is clearly visible as the lowest/farthest forward piece of hardware on the front of the car. Yes all of the pipes are installed correctly, not any room for error in that department.. It just is what it is. Since this is just a problem with the rear o2 on the forward pipe, I will probably have them deleted out of the next tune, since their whole purpose is to check the efficiency of the catalytic converters.
I am overall happy with the quality and of course Torrie's customer service and promptness can't be beat, neither can all of that added turbo noise with the windows down!!
It may take awhile, but I will try to get pics as soon as I can. I'll be changing my oil in the next probably month which would be ideal to take pics since it will be up in the air
-Nick
Im leaving for a business trip to Dallas tomorrow, when I get back Ill take before/after pics of the cutout Ill be doing on the skid plate. Curious, do you have the "NACA" duct shapes molded into your skit plate? That is the only reason I need to trim mine, that NACA duct is in the path of the front pipe.
Not sure what the NACA ducts are :/ sorry!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_duct (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NACA_duct)
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/1308-naca-duct/ (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/1308-naca-duct/)