Getting this system together, slowly but surely.
My first order of parts was from Prometh (https://prometh.com/), $405 shipped from CA netted me
1) ~16 or ~18ft length of black braided covered ss hose in -4an size,
1) check valve&filter assembly with the 4an fittings in it,
1) straight and 1 90 degree nozzle holder (bogo)
2) nozzles (bogo)
1) small 4an line to go from check valve to nozzle
1) -6an line to go from pump inlet to the tank unfinished on one side so i can cut to length
1) prometh pump with fittings for the AN lines
While researching failsafe options, I decided to pickup a torqbyte controller. I was originally going to just activate with a hobbs switch and call it a day, but as I was digging deeper into how I would trigger a boost dump it looked like I would really need a device to help me out with that.
Torqbyte CM5-LT $315 shipped (https://torqbyte.com/products/torqbyte-cm5-lt) device is ordered.
This controller can do alot of things, but what I like is that I can power the pump through it, it reads the current usage and if it operates outside of the parameters I give it, it can throw an error state and then kick off a ground signal out to operate a relay up front and dump my boost. I'm going to wire a relay into the factory pierburg boost controller using these two pigtails,
EV1 Female Pigtail $8 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GPV7WK/)
EV1 Male Pitgail $8 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GPV45U/)
And I don't need it, but f-it really might as well have the option, I ordered a canbus rpm box ($110 shipped) (http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2132) to feed an rpm signal to that torqbyte. I picked up a few LED's from them too, still waiting for it to ship out. I should be able to read canbus signal right off the sony dsp in the trunk.
You may notice I'm missing a tank. I haven't decided on a tank yet. I need to clean my huge sub box out of the trunk and convert to IB, redo my amp mounts, etc etc, this is going to be a big chore for me right now, dealing with a bad disc in my back so everything feels impossible.
Could I do this cheaper? Hell yea I could, but I wanna play with this torqbyte and see how it does, thought it was neat. The failsafe ability makes me feel a little better. It does have a cool LED readout display (https://torqbyte.com/products/dm1). They also have a bluetooth (https://torqbyte.com/products/bm1-bluetooth-module) module if I wanted to show some stats on an android or ios device.
I'll update with some pics of the gear when the controller gets here!
J looking forward to your very own custom Build thread! Z :)
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,98.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,98.0.html)
Quote from: jbeez on January 10, 2018, 08:31:29 PM
Getting this system together, slowly but surely.
My first order of parts was from Prometh (https://prometh.com/), $405 shipped from CA netted me
1) ~16 or ~18ft length of black braided covered ss hose in -4an size,
1) check valve&filter assembly with the 4an fittings in it,
1) straight and 1 90 degree nozzle holder (bogo)
2) nozzles (bogo)
1) small 4an line to go from check valve to nozzle
1) -6an line to go from pump inlet to the tank unfinished on one side so i can cut to length
1) prometh pump with fittings for the AN lines
While researching failsafe options, I decided to pickup a torqbyte controller. I was originally going to just activate with a hobbs switch and call it a day, but as I was digging deeper into how I would trigger a boost dump it looked like I would really need a device to help me out with that.
Torqbyte CM5-LT $315 shipped (https://torqbyte.com/products/torqbyte-cm5-lt) device is ordered.
This controller can do alot of things, but what I like is that I can power the pump through it, it reads the current usage and if it operates outside of the parameters I give it, it can throw an error state and then kick off a ground signal out to operate a relay up front and dump my boost. I'm going to wire a relay into the factory pierburg boost controller using these two pigtails,
EV1 Female Pigtail $8 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GPV7WK/)
EV1 Male Pitgail $8 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GPV45U/)
And I don't need it, but f-it really might as well have the option, I ordered a canbus rpm box ($110 shipped) (http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2132) to feed an rpm signal to that torqbyte. I picked up a few LED's from them too, still waiting for it to ship out. I should be able to read canbus signal right off the sony dsp in the trunk.
You may notice I'm missing a tank. I haven't decided on a tank yet. I need to clean my huge sub box out of the trunk and convert to IB, redo my amp mounts, etc etc, this is going to be a big chore for me right now, dealing with a bad disc in my back so everything feels impossible.
Could I do this cheaper? Hell yea I could, but I wanna play with this torqbyte and see how it does, thought it was neat. The failsafe ability makes me feel a little better. It does have a cool LED readout display (https://torqbyte.com/products/dm1). They also have a bluetooth (https://torqbyte.com/products/bm1-bluetooth-module) module if I wanted to show some stats on an android or ios device.
I'll update with some pics of the gear when the controller gets here!
If you have the time. I would love a "How-To" write up on this. I would like to build my own meth system as well. Good luck!
Quote from: ZSHO on January 11, 2018, 11:19:53 AM
J looking forward to your very own custom Build thread! Z :)
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,98.0.html (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,98.0.html)
Thanks Z, but hardly feel my car needs its own build thread. It's mostly standard stuff, plugs, tune, downpipes. I think the only thing one off is probably the meth kit which I'll try to document in here.
It looks like prometh took down the 3.5 transverse direct port options. That's disappointing.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Quote from: J-Will on January 12, 2018, 07:47:26 PM
It looks like prometh took down the 3.5 transverse direct port options. That's disappointing.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
The website isn't always uptodate from what I've learned talking with Rodney. I'd reach out. I emailed him some random questions the other day he actually called me we had a good chat, cool dude.
Just picked up a few of these, Mini Relay Socket w/ crimp connectors (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222375416856)
I only need one for this project but I do have a bunch of these mini relays (https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75669/Picker-PC782-1C-12S-D-X-30A-Micro-ISO-Relay-/) I bought from waytek wire a while ago.
Once the sockets get here I can figure out the exact wiring of it to interrupt the boost controller and figure out where I'll be mounting it. I was thinking of mounting it right to the upper intake where the wire harness is clipped in through a hole there. I might need to undo the wire harness plastic push in pin and bolt the relay housing there and just zip tie that wire harness to the relay housing or something. The relay uses such little power I should be able to just power it from the 12v feed that would be going to the boost controller. Basically it's going to sit normally closed with the 12v wire feeding the pierburg, and when my meth controller faults it will supply a ground to the relay, completing the circuit, and disconnecting the 12v from the pierburg unit which will cause it to fail open and dump boost to spring pressure.
Even though I'm doing a trunk system, and I planned on putting my torqbyte in the trunk, it seems to make alot more sense to just put it under the dash. The MAP sensor wiring it comes with is about 6' long, the power for the controller is 12' and the power that goes to the pump is 12'. There's a small molex connector to goto the optional LCD display thats also ~5' long. All these things pretty much make it easier from a wiring perspective to be under the dash. Working on where that'll go now exactly and where I'll be drilling through to make it into the engine bay.
Quote from: jbeez on January 17, 2018, 02:54:21 PM
Even though I'm doing a trunk system, and I planned on putting my torqbyte in the trunk, it seems to make alot more sense to just put it under the dash. The MAP sensor wiring it comes with is about 6' long, the power for the controller is 12' and the power that goes to the pump is 12'. There's a small molex connector to goto the optional LCD display thats also ~5' long. All these things pretty much make it easier from a wiring perspective to be under the dash. Working on where that'll go now exactly and where I'll be drilling through to make it into the engine bay.
If you take the wipers (and wiper mounts off), you can take off the windshield wiper cowl. There is a grommet near the driverside corner that a lot of OEM wiring is run through. When I did the gauges on my SHO, I put an additional hole into that, and forced the wiring through using an old antenna I had laying around. Then used black silicone to seal the grommet back up.
There is supposed to also be a grommet accessible from behind the glove box but I couldn't find it.
I was just looking behind my glove box and there's a big module in the way. Since its a little snowy out I didn't feel like tearing it apart right now, https://photos.app.goo.gl/xrmBM8YR8L03PQ3t2
IDK what that is, abs module? PCM? hvac? I need to unbolt one of the bracket bolts from above, and two from below to drop it down and see what it is. I need to look behind there and see whats accessable as far as the firewall goes.
I need to get a ground through, a 3 wire maf connector, maybe power or I can connect it to the fuse box below the dash inside. The controller is going to get rpm which I can pull off of canbus, ignition on, and then output power and ground from where I install it to the trunk. I'd like to put this controller on the passenger side. I also want to put a master disarm switch somewhere so if I want to flash to stock I can just turn the whole meth kit off.
I think the AWD module goes in behind the glovebox? The ABS is contained in the engine bay along with the HCU?
Any updates to this? Did you get it finished? I also have the Torqbyte...just haven't installed anything yet.