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Break in new 3.5EB?

Started by TopherSho, April 02, 2019, 01:18:28 PM

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TopherSho

Ok ford says 'drive it but don't be an ass' .. i just dont buy it.   Merc/Audi high performance engines have break in rituals or at least rules.  Since were making more power with similar gap-tolerances it just makes sense.

Anyone have any guidences?  my initial go to is buy two crates of Royal Purple... not a break in oil,  but a oil with extra zinc/film strength.  In my head it will lengthen the break in period, but also cut down on over abrasive rings/cams/bearings on running for the first 1000 miles under light / moderate loads with no tune.

thoughts ?

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

Gjkrisa

#1
I would still do a break in and maybe do some testing so you can tell us if it did anything?
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/quick-tech-performance-engine-break-in-the-right-way/

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2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

SHOdded

Ford is correct.  Not a lot of special breakin is required, the engines come with normal oil from the factory.

You can observe the "avoid WOT for the first 1,000 miles rule", but otherwise drive normally.  Will not hurt to have RP HPS as you stated (not the SAE version).  Change oil after that 1,000 miles, then go your merry way.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

TopherSho

ok,  thank you both!

plan will be light driving,  under 3000 rpm.. but to fluctuate the rpm slowly with RP with extra zinc/film strength,  then a full flush @400 miles and again @1000 miles.

then drive stock still but more 'normal' driving with limited WoT to 1500 miles

After 1500,  drive it normal,  @2000 miles change the oil back to normal oil, start re-tuning.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

SM105K

Listen to both of them. A proper break in needs to be done.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!