Well, this may be it, the last failure. P0301... Blown rings/motor

[MiWiAu]

im at 70k now

ETA: Disregard the rest of my reply below. Didn't realize you were 2010, so this probably doesn't apply to you. Sorry, man.

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FWIW, you may want to consider checking your warranty guide (download available online). The fuel injectors may be covered under the 8 year / 80k mile "Emissions Performance Warranty".

I was out of standard warranty (due to time), but the Emissions Warranty covered my injector replacement.

They said they were only authorized to replace the one injector in my case, but if you failed half of them, maybe they will replace them all. Definitely worth asking!

Also, if you're not already at a Ford dealer, and you're inside the emissions performance warranty period, make sure you save the bad parts...



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[lamrith]

Have to wonder if that had more to do with your plug fouling than the plug themselves.  I have not heard of anyone else having issues with colder plugs, I know I have not and I live farther north than you do by a few hundred miles.  Could be the fouling was a warning sign of the failing injectors that only showed as an issue when you put colder plugs in?

I agree with SHOdded, make sure they replace them ALL.  I had a buddy up here when I 1st got my SHO.  he had one go, replaced it, then couple months later another failed.  screwed the car up pretty good both times and cost him lot of money having it fixed and torn apart 2x.

[MiWiAu]

Have to wonder if that had more to do with your plug fouling than the plug themselves.  I have not heard of anyone else having issues with colder plugs, I know I have not and I live farther north than you do by a few hundred miles.  Could be the fouling was a warning sign of the failing injectors that only showed as an issue when you put colder plugs in?

I don't have all my records in front of me for exact mileage, but I bought my XSport used (3 years old) with 28k miles. I swapped out what I assumed to be the OEM plugs at ~30k when I put in my tune. OEM plugs looked good, no signs of fouling, and were replaced with one step colder NGK at the advise of Torrie. I went through a tune with Torrie, then Brad, and had my #2 injector fail at around 34k miles. Only about 4k on the brand new plugs. #2 plug still looked great, other than being wet with fuel. I assumed mine was a random failure. The dealer would only replace the failed unit (under warranty), so I'm still running the original injectors on the other 5 cylinders (45k miles later and no issues... knock on wood), but I think SHOdded indicated earlier that a lot of these failures tend to occur on Bank 1? Makes me wonder if something else is just inherently wonky with the design or assembly process with bank 1 injectors.

Maybe having 3 injectors fail at once could be due to excessive fouling? Regardless, it certainly seems to be a freak failure to have all three go at the same time with no prior warning. I just wonder if it's too much of a stretch to try and compare this to the more "typical" single stuck injector that is seen more commonly?

[TopherSho]

Injectors do fail.

1, 3 are bank 1, 5 is bank 2.

Most people find only 1 bank failing.  Make sure they replace ALL 6.

Yes sir, that was my reply. 

i must have looked at the wrong v6 layout..  its all three back plugs near the fire wall

[TopherSho]

Now i am a bit sad,  at 70k with the original water pump freaks me out a bit.  i was all set to replace it when the pulled the block.

[MiWiAu]

Injectors do fail.

1, 3 are bank 1, 5 is bank 2.

Most people find only 1 bank failing.  Make sure they replace ALL 6.

Yes sir, that was my reply. 

i must have looked at the wrong v6 layout..  its all three back plugs near the fire wall

Wow, WTF is up with Bank 1? Do the longitudinal EB in F150 commonly have bank 1 injector issues as well, or is it more of a transverse thing? More heat on the rear bank with transverse mounting?

[SHOdded]

Have not heard of injector issues on the F150, mostly CAC related stuff.

The transverse manifold is metal and has some baffling IIRC.  Do not know if same is true of the F150.  Could be heatsoak from that as well.

[ZSHO]

I wholeheartedly Agree with SHOdded and the Rear Bank 1 is where the Heat soak accumulates.Pics of the Hood for reference below. Z

I wonder if any is related to the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) & (PCM)
Fuel is metered directly into each combustion chamber.Fuel injectors pulse to follow engine firing order,in accordance with engine demand.
PCM controls the opening duration (Pulse width) of the Fuel injectors and maintain optimum exhaust emission control and engine performance for all operating conditions.

[TopherSho]

miss-diagnosis.  blew#2 rings straight into the pan.   Mechanic thinks the injector failed at load,  filled the cylinder,  phyciscs did the rest.

well so much for this car.  im not putting 7k$ into a car i owe 7k$ on still.  i will just let it rot in the driveway.

[MiWiAu]

Damn dude, sorry to hear that.


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[ZSHO]

Damn! Sorry to hear TopherSho and quite speechless @ the moment. Z 

[802SHO]

Very very sorry to hear the bad news Tophersho.  Speechless is right. 

[TopherSho]

Damn! Sorry to hear TopherSho and quite speechless @ the moment. Z 

Very very sorry to hear the bad news Tophersho.  Speechless is right.

Damn dude, sorry to hear that.

Well i have words for this   all naughty.. but also super pissed at myself.  Never once considered the $%^&ing injectors to be a major concern..  but now that i have done some internetz .. big $$ mistake..

At bosh's 1 billion cycle rating *in a perfect lab* it makes tons of sense that it would happen eventually and i should have replaced the freaking pos bastards a year ago. 

Here in the real word with crappy gas, water, and real engine heat and grit i bet that 1 billion cycle rating drops quite a bit.  Add in we race the damn things and poor heat shielding on bank-1 and we can likely take a little more off the remaining duty cycles.   Dirty napkin math says with 16 hours a week driving, and 20% reduction on the rated duty cycles with a assumed 1800-2000 rpm average my injectors probably should have been preventatively replaced about a year ago 'to be safe' under a extreme duty cycle regime. whoops..

#$%^ ..... just ....... $$%%  .... never even looked at them once in the last 35k *hard* driving miles.

7k$ lesson right there.

So the update is this.  Wife said "BS that things sitting idle while we make payments on it,  and NO you cant have a SRT/hellcat.."  so against my (mostly)-BITTER better judgment were going to rebuild it. we will try for a 40-50k long block.. but failing that we're going remanned.

ugh... ugh ugh ugh.  then i have to decide to leave it stock or rod it back out.

[FoMoCoSHO]

miss-diagnosis.  blew#2 rings straight into the pan.   Mechanic thinks the injector failed at load,  filled the cylinder,  phyciscs did the rest.

well so much for this car.  im not putting 7k$ into a car i owe 7k$ on still.  i will just let it rot in the driveway.

What exactly will you spend 14 grand on that is even close to your uber low mileage SHO in luxury and performance?

Edit- I see the wife stepped in, lol.

[TopherSho]

miss-diagnosis.  blew#2 rings straight into the pan.   Mechanic thinks the injector failed at load,  filled the cylinder,  phyciscs did the rest.

well so much for this car.  im not putting 7k$ into a car i owe 7k$ on still.  i will just let it rot in the driveway.

What exactly will you spend 14 grand on that is even close to your uber low mileage SHO in luxury and performance?

Edit- I see the wife stepped in, lol.

Not only did she step in she opted for a new remanned block out of washington with a 3 year / 100k ..  So i guess were doing that?   I am shocked honestly.  I was ready to let it all go.. but i think shes too used to having two drivable cars.  She still shot down getting a model-3p though

So were about 3 weeks out .. to be continued. 

The block and heads and all will be new,  I have also ordered new water pump, and rubber bits and hot pipes.

so dumb question .. I'm REALLY happy with the Brad-tune i had.  And the new block and setup will be 'newer' and prone to LESS pre-igniton and support better timing with less carbon in the cylinders.  do i REALLY need to rebuild my tune from scratch?  If the turbo pressure delta is 'right' (requested and actual), spark is good and not causing knock, and ltft and stft show clean steady numbers would it be safe?