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Surging - Bad fuel injector?

Started by SHO9987, February 08, 2019, 07:40:48 PM

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SHO9987

Been experiencing a surging at light throttle/low rpm situations.  I can feel the car surging and see the fluctuation in RPMs.  If I give it anything more than 30% throttle the car behaves normally.  94K miles on the car, see mod list below.  No CELs or any lights for that matter.  Thought it was the torque converter going out on me; took it to the transmission shop for a diagnosis, all he could find were several misfires on cylinder #1 and #6... obviously not enough to flip the light.  He reported that the transmission was working well, fluid was clean, and he did not think there was an issue with the torque converter. 

I now turned my attention towards these misfires.  I've got new plugs and MSD coils on the way.  I'm considering it might be a fuel injector too, usually I use some Lucas fuel system cleaner every oil change.  I added an extra dose today with a fill up to see if it helps any.  The car definitely felt a lot stronger once I had the fuel system treatment circulating.  Never have had a problem with winter gas around here either. 

Open to any other ideas or suggestions.  I did manage to get a datalog of the surging, but I'm not an expert at interpreting the logs.  Attached is the datalog, the surging occurs towards the end of the log in 5th gear.  There appeared to be a little knock around the same time I felt the surging.  I noted the "misfires" at the beginning of the log, I certainly didn't feel anything then, I was simply pulling out of the parking lot then. 
2013 SHO Non-PP, Catless DPs, Custom 2.5" exhaust, Airraid CAI, Stock Turbo Upgrades, snow - W/M system, custom tune

ZSHO

#1
It could be a leaky injector! Do you smell any gas!

Have a Ford Mode 6 Data or Compression test performed!
In any event Check and inspect the Spark plugs for any fouling.
Check for any signs of oil inside the spark plug wells..
Coil on plugs are a likely culprit. Z

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/obd-ii-mode-6-diagnosis-driveability-corner-june-2002/

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0300


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHO9987

Quote from: ZSHO on February 08, 2019, 09:42:39 PM
It could be a leaky injector! Do you smell any gas!

Have a Ford Mode 6 Data or Compression test performed!
In any event Check and inspect the Spark plugs for any fouling.
Check for any signs of oil inside the spark plug wells..
Coil on plugs are a likely culprit. Z

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/obd-ii-mode-6-diagnosis-driveability-corner-june-2002/

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0300

Thanks for the info!  I haven't noticed any fuel smell, hopefully it is a bad coil.  We'll see what the new plugs and coils do when I get them in.  It seems weird that it is only low RPM though, the car performs and pulls great when I romp on it!  If it's a fuel injector though... I wonder if the methanol is making up for it? 
2013 SHO Non-PP, Catless DPs, Custom 2.5" exhaust, Airraid CAI, Stock Turbo Upgrades, snow - W/M system, custom tune

TonyTheTiger57

I had this same issue with my 2018. The dealer acts like I am nuts. The dealer says they cant find anything wrong with the car. I can watch the RPM gauge wiggle, I can feel the stumble when I put my hand on the intake manifold. I did upgrade to SP-542's and the problem is gone now. I am not sure if that had anything to do with it but so far, so good.

autobahn terror

I had some surging issues related to a bad Throttle body, (Idle air control and other weirdness), may be worth a look if you are spraying meth or have an older model.
2014 PP, Dicunzolo Gen2 Mounts, Gear Head Intercooler, EcoPowerParts Charge Pipes w/Meth Bung @1GPH, Hennessy KnN CAI W/RECIRC, Alky controls meth injection, Lightly Ported Intake drilled and tapped for Port Meth Injection 1GPH per Cylinder, XDI EVO HPFP, Deathwerks 340LPH intank LPFP, ATP Turbos, EPP Catless DownPipes, Corsa CAT Back, 160TSTAT, 3BAR MAP, Stock Ignition coils, SP542 plugs .028, UPR Catch Can, MEGAN Coilovers,  Power Stop Z23 Brake Kit, 93octane Dynotune @ 430AWHP/430AWTQ...Soon to be much more

SHO9987

Thanks for the input everyone.  The more I drive the car and monitor everything on my livewire, the more I think it is a boost control or throttle issue, or both.  When I give it 25% throttle and the car doesn't downshift I'll see the RPM jump up and then bog back down like the throttle is closing for a second, the RPM then rises normally after that.  As for the surging when the car downshifts with minimal throttle input (when non aggressively passing someone), it feels like it is a boost issue; almost as if the turbos are creating more boost than what the car thinks I am demanding and subsequently opens the blow-off valves (which shouldn't be opening under throttle right?).  Currently I have the BOVs recirculating in stock configuration so I cannot hear if they are opening early or not, I did notice some oil/residue on my front blow off valve that I haven't noticed before.  I plan on pulling and inspecting that BOV this week when I change the plugs and coils.  Is there any way of testing the BOVs to see if they are bad?  I'll probably switch them back to VTA this week as well.  As for the throttle body, how would one go about diagnosing that? 

2013 SHO Non-PP, Catless DPs, Custom 2.5" exhaust, Airraid CAI, Stock Turbo Upgrades, snow - W/M system, custom tune

SHOdded

Definitely check the BOVs, particularly the orange gaskets.  A failure of the BOV is usually the gasket tearing.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ZSHO

#7
I would temporarily Disconnect the Rear BOV Plug and only leave the Front BOV VTA! Bit of Trial and error .Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHO9987

New plugs and coils installed.  I don't think the plugs looked too bad, they were a bit out of gap .035 on all 6, but no oil on them.  Cleaned out the CAC as well, a little water/oil mixture, but not a whole lot in there.  BOVs looked good too, besides a small amount of oil around the o-ring of the rear BOV. 

Brad made a few adjustments to the tune as well.  In his words: it's possible that due to the turbo wheels making more airflow it could be raising the TIP pressure and the throttle is cutting back to limit power and airflow.  The initial impressions of the new tune seem promising, the surging is definitely improving with the adjustments that were made.  The daily drive-ability is a lot better too, these upgraded wheels seem to make a lot of boost and they do so quickly.  Before this tune, trying to accelerate non-aggressively was a bit difficult; too light on the throttle would result in hardly any power, a little more throttle and all of a sudden you're handed all this boost!  I still need to officially datalog it and report back to Brad when the weather is a little better here. 

Regardless, I am happy that it is just some fine tuning that needs to be done and not a bad fuel injector, I'm also happy that I've got Brad taking time to experiment and make adjustments to the tune.  Being back in school I find myself driving a little more responsibly... which is when I started to notice the surging, I'm not surprised the car likes to be driven more aggressively.


2013 SHO Non-PP, Catless DPs, Custom 2.5" exhaust, Airraid CAI, Stock Turbo Upgrades, snow - W/M system, custom tune

autox4fun

I'm in a similar boat,
updated wheels, and shuddering/surging
also took it in for a torque converter concern.. passed with flying colors.
noted during the issues the throttle plate is being commanded open and closed causing the bov's to open.
requesting an updated tune via Livernois... however they "haven't tuned a updated turbo car yet"
I'm in Michigan and this is the reason for using them but is not looking so good for an email tune from them and they are months out for dyno time.... and at steep cost.  while i know this will be the best for the tune... timing is everything.

Randy
Ported - Heads, EX manifolds, and turbine housings, GH - turbos, TQ, & IC, EPP intake and hotpipes w/Tial (11lbs), x35 spacer, MSD coils, PPE catted DP, Magnaflow exhaust, DW in tank, Livernois Hpfp, Fuel-IT e-sensor, AEM WMI, SHO trans cooler, Megan Coilovers, Retrofitted Headlights, TSW wheels

AJP turbo

Well some of the problem if you want to call it that is the fact that there are now quite a few options of turbo and compressor wheel upgrades. And they are all mostly different. I've seen some ebay wheels that are actually very good but some that do not seem to change much if anything at all(which is a shame).

It gets complicated because of the boost control and drive by wire and torque logic that the ecoboost uses. So you are requesting a torque command from the accelerator pedal, that gets translated into a desired airflow/load. That needs to match with what the new compressor wheels are moving in terms of airflow.

So that's where remote or dyno tuning can be tricky because some of these wheels aren't having the result that you anticipate because some are good and as advertised and some are not. But that's the point of tuning!..Calibrate the ECU for the hardware!

And also a big factor and also in this case is OP also had upgraded wastegate springs and actuators. Unless you are doing a turbo upgrade I usually discourage this. 1: because there usually is just no need because they raise the minimum boost allowed and 2: because it requires a remapping of the wastegate duty cycle tables when there is no need to typically raise the minimum boost pressure. There is a time and place but usually not for the 3.5 eco...Since we really only run up to 17 psi...The OEM boost control has not problem raising boost to those levels with the stock springs of 4-5 psi

SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

SHO9987

Quote from: AJP turbo on February 17, 2019, 11:43:01 PM

And also a big factor and also in this case is OP also had upgraded wastegate springs and actuators. Unless you are doing a turbo upgrade I usually discourage this. 1: because there usually is just no need because they raise the minimum boost allowed and 2: because it requires a remapping of the wastegate duty cycle tables when there is no need to typically raise the minimum boost pressure. There is a time and place but usually not for the 3.5 eco...Since we really only run up to 17 psi...The OEM boost control has not problem raising boost to those levels with the stock springs of 4-5 psi


I remember you telling me this when the CHRAs and wastegates were installed.  I called the shop to see if there was one or two springs in the wastegates, unfortunately I believe it was just the one 7psi spring in each... and I didn't have the heart to wait and order 4-5psi springs to replace them lol. 
2013 SHO Non-PP, Catless DPs, Custom 2.5" exhaust, Airraid CAI, Stock Turbo Upgrades, snow - W/M system, custom tune

AJP turbo

Quote from: SHO9987 on February 18, 2019, 10:30:36 PM
Quote from: AJP turbo on February 17, 2019, 11:43:01 PM

And also a big factor and also in this case is OP also had upgraded wastegate springs and actuators. Unless you are doing a turbo upgrade I usually discourage this. 1: because there usually is just no need because they raise the minimum boost allowed and 2: because it requires a remapping of the wastegate duty cycle tables when there is no need to typically raise the minimum boost pressure. There is a time and place but usually not for the 3.5 eco...Since we really only run up to 17 psi...The OEM boost control has not problem raising boost to those levels with the stock springs of 4-5 psi


I remember you telling me this when the CHRAs and wastegates were installed.  I called the shop to see if there was one or two springs in the wastegates, unfortunately I believe it was just the one 7psi spring in each... and I didn't have the heart to wait and order 4-5psi springs to replace them lol.

No that's all good I was just saying that it's a factor and a lot of people think you can just change the springs and actuators and it's a non issue...you did a turbo upgrade so nothing wrong with what you did...but I wouldn't do springs  for no reason

But if you were trying to hit 30 psi and had 4 psi springs then that wouldn't work lol...the boost control hardware in this car probably wouldn't allow that
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

abs

I will add my recent experience with this.  My Flex was off the road for quite some time because of really bad shuddering.  The dealer diagnosed as a failed torque converter, 140k on the odometer.  I installed a Ford OEM reman torque converter, a used transmission with 60k miles with solenoid pack and a new valve body.  Upon initial drive tests, I could see my RPMs fluctuating up and down and also feel surging when in a high gear with torque converter lockup and at around 45mph.  I confirmed with the Forscan application that the target torque converter clutch slippage was 20rpm, but in fact, I was getting fluctuating slippage up to about 100 rpm.  Knowing all my transmission parts were already replaced, I began to suspect an engine issue.  I checked my EVAP solenoid on the engine for vacuum leakage, but it was fine.  Forscan was showing much higher long term fuel trim on Bank 1 than Bank 2, about 10-14% versus 6%.  I started to suspect an issue with carbon on my fuel injectors causing the problem.  I ran the fuel tank down to about 1/2 a tank and then put in Techron Complete Fuel Injector Cleaner good to treat 20 gallons, and then idled the engine for about 45 minutes.  I then took it for a 10 minute drive, filled the tank with Shell Super gas, and then took it for another 60 minutes drive with multiple speed/rpm scenarios.  By the end of the drive, the fuel trim was starting to come down, the torque converter slippage was substantially reduced and overall driveability improved.  My scans with Forscan during the 60 minute drive show the torque converter slippage greatly improved. 

Bottom line is that this experience seems to validate what I had suspected.  Fluctuating RPMs during torque converter lockup at high load/low speed/low rpm scenarios (e.g. going up a hill in 6th gear at 45 miles/hour with torque converter clutch engaged) can be caused by fueling issues and in particular what I think must be carbon buildup on the fuel injector.  If you are having these symptoms try some top grade PEA based fuel injector cleaner and see if it helps.

Blackhawk

Any update how it is driving ?  I am getting the shuddering as well and was ready to bring it to the dealer for warranty.  Now I am thinking about putting the stock plugs back in before I bring it in.  Not sure if they would give me crap about having tightly gapped colder plugs.   




Quote from: abs on February 20, 2019, 10:59:43 PM
I will add my recent experience with this.  My Flex was off the road for quite some time because of really bad shuddering.  The dealer diagnosed as a failed torque converter, 140k on the odometer.  I installed a Ford OEM reman torque converter, a used transmission with 60k miles with solenoid pack and a new valve body.  Upon initial drive tests, I could see my RPMs fluctuating up and down and also feel surging when in a high gear with torque converter lockup and at around 45mph.  I confirmed with the Forscan application that the target torque converter clutch slippage was 20rpm, but in fact, I was getting fluctuating slippage up to about 100 rpm.  Knowing all my transmission parts were already replaced, I began to suspect an engine issue.  I checked my EVAP solenoid on the engine for vacuum leakage, but it was fine.  Forscan was showing much higher long term fuel trim on Bank 1 than Bank 2, about 10-14% versus 6%.  I started to suspect an issue with carbon on my fuel injectors causing the problem.  I ran the fuel tank down to about 1/2 a tank and then put in Techron Complete Fuel Injector Cleaner good to treat 20 gallons, and then idled the engine for about 45 minutes.  I then took it for a 10 minute drive, filled the tank with Shell Super gas, and then took it for another 60 minutes drive with multiple speed/rpm scenarios.  By the end of the drive, the fuel trim was starting to come down, the torque converter slippage was substantially reduced and overall driveability improved.  My scans with Forscan during the 60 minute drive show the torque converter slippage greatly improved. 

Bottom line is that this experience seems to validate what I had suspected.  Fluctuating RPMs during torque converter lockup at high load/low speed/low rpm scenarios (e.g. going up a hill in 6th gear at 45 miles/hour with torque converter clutch engaged) can be caused by fueling issues and in particular what I think must be carbon buildup on the fuel injector.  If you are having these symptoms try some top grade PEA based fuel injector cleaner and see if it helps.