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2012+ timing job

Started by buck91, January 16, 2019, 12:15:56 PM

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SHOdded

It is more worrisome due to the water pump being timing chain driven, than a timing chain issue itself.  Until a couple of years ago, chain stretch was believed to be an F150 issue.  Then a couple of incidences in the SHO popped up.

To see if 5W30 is better than 5W20 for your SHO at this point, you should use the same type/brand filter on both oil changes, and wait it out till the end of the oil change to compare.  There might be initial quieting with the heavier oil then resumption of the old behavior.  Have had that happen on the naturally aspirated 3.5.  If you are not doing lab analysis on the oil, you should.  Fuel dilution could be an issue.

I hope the solenoid change helps with this issue, you do have to take the valve cover off to replace.  Bank 2 is also way easier than Bank 1.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

mrhighcaliber

Quote from: Gray Brick on April 14, 2019, 10:56:14 AM
I only changed bank 1.

It was worth trying since the alternative is much more expensive.
A timing chain really should not stretch too much after 150k miles.
I did a timing job recently. 124k, the chain stretch was about ~3mm. For a ~5ft chain. That's nothing.

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mrhighcaliber

Quote from: SHOdded on April 15, 2019, 06:49:25 AM
It is more worrisome due to the water pump being timing chain driven, than a timing chain issue itself.  Until a couple of years ago, chain stretch was believed to be an F150 issue.  Then a couple of incidences in the SHO popped up.

To see if 5W30 is better than 5W20 for your SHO at this point, you should use the same type/brand filter on both oil changes, and wait it out till the end of the oil change to compare.  There might be initial quieting with the heavier oil then resumption of the old behavior.  Have had that happen on the naturally aspirated 3.5.  If you are not doing lab analysis on the oil, you should.  Fuel dilution could be an issue.

I hope the solenoid change helps with this issue, you do have to take the valve cover off to replace.  Bank 2 is also way easier than Bank 1.
When I ran 5w20 (always run 5w30/0w30) start up rattle ocurrances were cut in half and the duration of the rattle (just under a sec) was reduced as well. Wasn't cold weather either. Went back to 5w30 after storing it all winter, back to normal. Only happens every 3-4 cold starts. If it slightly still warm (~3-4hr soak) it did it more frequently.

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10bird

Which yt video?

Quote from: 802SHO on April 14, 2019, 06:28:43 AM
Quote from: Gray Brick on April 14, 2019, 12:37:31 AM
I changed my Variable Cam Timing Solenoid today...
No more start up rattle.

I'm interested in seeing if this stops my start up rattle.  From what little research I did...did you change bank 2 only?

SHOdded

#19
If you are referring to my post, FTM had disassembled and explained VCT solenoid function some time ago:
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!