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PTU blew.. (confirmed PTU now)

Started by TopherSho, August 28, 2018, 07:22:30 PM

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TopherSho

Quote from: TopherSho on September 13, 2018, 10:38:32 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on September 13, 2018, 10:34:09 AM
nope.  engine and trans should be up to operating temp before pushing the system, ideally.  weird behavior tends to happen otherwise.  def avoid brake launches until then.

/grumble/  never had  to do that before ... /grumble, kicks a can dejectedly down the street/

That being said.  the oil addition helped 1000x .. Eugene Kendal Ford shall hear my wrath today.

Could not diagnose bad plugs
Could not diagnose a bad boost solinoid
Could not diagnose a bad wastegate diaphram
and now cant even READ a dipstick ... and VERY CLEARLY did not test drive it.

I mean seriously .. you did not need to go WoT to see the issue as it was ... so pissed.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

SHOdded

ya due diligence was surely lacking/has been lacking on their part
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

TopherSho

I'm going to check the Fluid again now that its been hot and cold and driven hard... just to make 3x sure its full now..
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

Macgyver

Quote from: TopherSho on September 13, 2018, 12:02:15 PM
I'm going to check the Fluid again now that its been hot and cold and driven hard... just to make 3x sure its full now..

Hey I did something right !!!

TopherSho

have not yet check it.. daughter is still awake ;) .. been driving it .. verdict is still out under high tuned load.  i have launched a few times in manual mode and not seen the issue.  but it is all still inconclusive to me.

How much oil is everyone overfilling in their tranny?  right now the metal slug\ball is just perfectly covered.. what is the 'safe' limited to fill to?
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

glock-coma

Quote from: TopherSho on September 13, 2018, 11:09:29 PM
have not yet check it.. daughter is still awake ;) .. been driving it .. verdict is still out under high tuned load.  i have launched a few times in manual mode and not seen the issue.  but it is all still inconclusive to me.

How much oil is everyone overfilling in their tranny?  right now the metal slug\ball is just perfectly covered.. what is the 'safe' limited to fill to?
Im approx a pint over with zero Shudder issues
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

TopherSho

Quote from: glock-coma on September 13, 2018, 11:49:16 PM
Quote from: TopherSho on September 13, 2018, 11:09:29 PM
have not yet check it.. daughter is still awake ;) .. been driving it .. verdict is still out under high tuned load.  i have launched a few times in manual mode and not seen the issue.  but it is all still inconclusive to me.

How much oil is everyone overfilling in their tranny?  right now the metal slug\ball is just perfectly covered.. what is the 'safe' limited to fill to?
Im approx a pint over with zero Shudder issues

What does that look like on the stick and slug? thnx in advance ..
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

glock-coma

I'll check it in the am and update.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

TopherSho

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

bpd1151

About 1/8th of an inch over the hash marks on the stick.

And Topher you should never do all your testing when the fluids aren't warmed up to operating temps.

I cringed for your drivetrain when I read that you did that. Geez.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


TopherSho

Quote from: bpd1151 on September 14, 2018, 01:46:51 AM
About 1/8th of an inch over the hash marks on the stick.

And Topher you should never do all your testing when the fluids aren't warmed up to operating temps.

I cringed for your drivetrain when I read that you did that. Geez.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

thank you sir!
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

As an aside,  its not like i'm going out every day and hard running it from start and go 30 seconds later.  I was only doing this for this issue to test the viscosity portion of the equation since fluid thickness with low fluid could explain hot = ok and cold =bad behavior.

I let the car warm up 4+ minutes every time i drive it in the morning using the remote start.   Because as much as people hate that ..  VW cars, my bosses AMG C63, and Audi's all have cold running power limits and i feel that if they do it .. so should i :P.




2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

StealBlueSho

My 2010 had stuttering issues on shifts which is well documented here... specifically with Unleashed and LMS... the car would go to shift under WOT and it would stutter before catching the gear.. sometimes it wouldnt catch gear until very late if I pushed through it. Topping off a pint over full helped a lot but it never fully solved the issue..never was able to figure it out..

Hammering it while turning almost always produced the issue.. think trying to swing the rear end around into a drift.. it just flat out wouldnt catch gear and it wasn't the advancetrac kicking in, it was a mechanical issue.

I hope you are able to solve it, it was a major PIA at the track.. some runs would go flawlessly and others I would have to back out halfway down the track.. it would do it most on the 1st to 2nd, but occasionally on other gears..

That 2010 had been beat to death...so I am SURE that played a factor.

StealBlueSho

DAMN I forgot... I was able to cure 90% of it by doing 3 x drain and fills with motorcraft LV trans fluid... Perhaps they didn't put the correct fluid in the car? I had a my trusted shop flush mine (I know.. never do that) and put an OEE in there that caused all kinds of problems...

SHOdded

Letting the car warm up for 4+ minutes only warms up the engine, not the transmission.  Keep an eye on trans temps to see how long they take to reach operating temperature under your driving conditions.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!