Well.... turns out that the mouse, rat, whatever chewed to wire off of one sensor and partially chewed threw the sires on the other. The best part is the chewing was done right at the sensor, so NO I couldn't just fish out a wire and make a splice....
Here are my late night thoughts:
Knock sensor replacement on a 2015 king ranch 3.5 ecoboost F150 4x4
Tools needed:
10 mm socket
8 mm socket
7 mm socket
17 mm open end wrench, metric cressent wrench
flat blade screw driver
needle nose pliers
some kind of tape ( I used blue painters tape )
Bucket or catch basin ( use one that is clean )
Rags 7-8
Watch the video by "Fordtechmakeuloco" on you tube about 3.5 ecoboost timing set replacement. 4 parts.
I was able to remove the plastic intake manifold, coolant cross over pipe and driver side fuel rail and remove the offending parts. I did NOT remove the passenger side fuel rail. you can do what you need to do without removing it.
To remove the coolant cross over pipe I first drained coolant by dis connecting the upper heater core hose and sucking some out with a shop vac I had cleaned out. I cleaned it out because I poured the coolant back in to the expansion tank when I was done.
After draining some of the coolant I removed the 3 bolt on the plastic fitting at the rear of the engine and then pulled and twisted the pipe.
*** Pay attention to what bolt go where in the fuel rail. Some of the bolt on the inside of the drivers side fuel rail (toward the middle of the engine) are shorter bolts and need to go back in the same hole they came from.
The nut on the compression fitting for the fuel rail is 17mm. I used a cressant wrench because I dirty like that.
The fuel rail will require some wiggling and finagling to get out. You will have to move the wire harness around a bit but it WILL come out.
*** Pay attention to the fuel rail. My injectors stayed in the block, but the "O" rings came off with the fuel rail. There was a red "O" ring and a black "keeper" in each boss of the fuel rail. I carefully replaced the red "O" ring on each injector and then a black keeper in each injector. If you don't do this you will have fuel leaks when you put the fuel rail back on. Don't ask me how I know that.......
I left the throttle body wires connected and just unbolted it from the manifold.
Cover the intake ports with tape as soon as you remove the intake manifold to lessen the chance of dropping something in one of the cylinders. If that happens you will have to pull a head...
Upon reassembly double check all the connections and hoses.
Start the engine and IMMEDIATELY check for fuel leaks.........
If everything is cool, reset your codes and take it for a spin.
I will know tomorrow after the computer fully resets that it worked.
Now that I have done it..... I could probably do it in about an hour and a half.
