Will throttle body spacer plate for explorer sport fit the sho?

[ddlopes]

I'm looking for a throttle body spacer for my 2013 SHO. I wanna use it mainly to injected my methanol after the throttle body. It's seems that the aftermarket companies are mainly focusing on the F150 for performance upgrades. There are plenty of companies making spacers for the F150 but unfortunately they don't fit the SHO. Today I found one for the explorer sport and I'm hoping it fits my 2013 SHO. So if anyone has any info I'd appreciate your assistance. Thanks for looking.

[BiGMaC]

Why not inject the meth ahead of the throttle body in the IC to TB pipe... Keeps the TB clean.

[ddlopes]

I purchased the snow performance stage 3 kit made for the direct inject ecoboost. For the f150 snow performance provides a spacer plate. For the sho the plate doesn't fit so they inject in the tube prior to the throttle body. But I called snow performance to inquire why they were using a plate and injecting the meth after the throttle body on the f150. They said because of the electronics in the throttle body may get damaged over time. Doesn't make sense to offer it for the f150 and not the sho if it may cause damage after time....

[66 Galaxie]

The throttle body electronics are not exposed to the methanol injection as they are on the outside not the inside of the throttle body where the air flow runs into the intake.

[autobahn terror]

Well, I can attest to the Electronic motor in the throttle body getting damaged over time from pre-TB injection; I just had to rebuild, (Clean), my TB actuator motor today as it seized on me last night. ECU threw P2112 and P2111 codes, (throttle stuck closed/open).

After removing the TB and Opening up the Actuator motor assembly, I found that the rotor and stator, (the outer magnet shell), were severely corroded. I had to clean it out with a combo of WD-40 and liqui-molly intake sensor cleaner with some assistance from a nylon and a brass bristle brush. I also used some alky electronic cleaning wipes in between treatments. once clean I found it was still binding in the brass bearing that is pressed into the bottom of the motor housing, (the nipple that sticks out the motor assembly). I had to leave some WD-40 in that brass Bearing to get it to operate cleanly. Once reassembled, wind the return spring with needle nose pliers in the counter-clockwise direction until the blade returns to the closed position with authority, (eric cartmen).

Delete error codes with you Favorite code reader to remove pesky check engine light and its off to the thunder-dome, (Autobahn)...

[AJP turbo]

I wonder if you were over spraying the meth...most people do...I can't really see the meth being the problem...your problem seems to be isolated?

[autobahn terror]

After taking the TB apart, I believe the issue is that fact that a small boost leak thru the acctuator housing is allowing some spray to enter the housing. The Return spring adjustment "set screw", if you can call that piece of nylon plastic that, has no gasket. Under high load/boost, there is a possibility that there is some leak to atmo via the blade shaft into the housing and out the return spring adjustment access. Also there is some play between the motor gear and the housing, which could let boost thru there as well. Another thing I noticed is if I torqed the actuator motor down to much the rotor shaft would bind on the brass bearing in the housing nipple. The motor housing is held in place by 4 screws, two are just small Philips head screws with lock washers, and the other two go thru the housing as into the TB itself. They are caddycorner to each other. There is a gasket here but it is thin, and the housing has a slight recess to it to accommodate easy assembly. A thicker gasket here I believe would be in order, plus some kind of cap to cover the return spring adjustment, which is about the size of a nickle.