Charging system Failure?

[pmezo33]

I'll shut down the accessories and go for a hour drive tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for all the help guys!

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I wouldn't keep stressing the alternator with a battery that doesn't charge.  Pull the battery and do a slow charge externally. 

[ecoboostsho]

I'll shut down the accessories and go for a hour drive tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for all the help guys!

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I wouldn't keep stressing the alternator with a battery that doesn't charge.  Pull the battery and do a slow charge externally.

Just took your advice and disconnected it from the car and put it on the charger. Will see if it takes

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[ZSHO]

Curious on any updates!  Thanks.  Z
I'm hoping it's something simple especially around the Holiday season! 

[ecoboostsho]

Curious on any updates!  Thanks.  Z
I'm hoping it's something simple especially around the Holiday season!

Well not sure yet but the battery charged right up and the messages are all gone. So it's either some kind of parasitic draw or a charging system issue...

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[pmezo33]

Curious on any updates!  Thanks.  Z
I'm hoping it's something simple especially around the Holiday season!

Well not sure yet but the battery charged right up and the messages are all gone. So it's either some kind of parasitic draw or a charging system issue...

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It still could be the battery.  It may charge up, but it also may not be able to hold the charge. 

With the charged battery that you now have, check what the alternator is putting out.  Should be 14 volts.  You need a charged battery to get an accurate alternator reading.  If you're putting out 14 volts, your alternator is fine.  If the battery is dead again in a week or so, you need a new battery.

That's also assuming you don't have a parastic draw somewhere.  Now is the perfect time to check for one.

[ecoboostsho]

Curious on any updates!  Thanks.  Z
I'm hoping it's something simple especially around the Holiday season!

Well not sure yet but the battery charged right up and the messages are all gone. So it's either some kind of parasitic draw or a charging system issue...

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

It still could be the battery.  It may charge up, but it also may not be able to hold the charge. 

With the charged battery that you now have, check what the alternator is putting out.  Should be 14 volts.  You need a charged battery to get an accurate alternator reading.  If you're putting out 14 volts, your alternator is fine.  If the battery is dead again in a week or so, you need a new battery.

That's also assuming you don't have a parastic draw somewhere.  Now is the perfect time to check for one.

Okay. I will keep an eye on it.

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[ZSHO]

I have also had issues with the(BMS)come on intermittenly in the past even with the upgraded MC BXT-65-850 Battery but since turning off every feature associated with the remote start such as heated seats,defroster,etc plus reducing the amount of time for interior/exterior lighting to the lowest,least setting upon exiting the vehicle has helped and has never come back!  Z

I found this over @ the Taurus Forum.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/115-5th-6th-gen-engine-drivetrain/257642-battery-keeps-dying.html#/topics/257642?page=2

[ecoboostsho]

I have also had issues with the(BMS)come on intermittenly in the past even with the upgraded MC BXT-65-850 Battery but since turning off every feature associated with the remote start such as heated seats,defroster,etc plus reducing the amount of time for interior/exterior lighting to the lowest,least setting upon exiting the vehicle has helped and has never come back!  Z

I found this over @ the Taurus Forum.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/115-5th-6th-gen-engine-drivetrain/257642-battery-keeps-dying.html#/topics/257642?page=2

I went ahead and disabled the majority of the remote start features (heated steering wheel, seat, rear defrost...) and have been monitoring it for a bit with Forscan. The timing of all of this started about the time I've been letting my car warm up in the garage thanks to MN sub zero temps so you may be on to something.  So far so good as the voltage seems to be stable at 12.8V with the car off.  It does jump to 14.6 though with the car on and it just stays there which seems odd.  I remember when the battery was new that voltage would vary between 13.6 and 14.5 as the battery needed charged.  I found "Charge State" in Forscan but I'm not sure what that is really measuring (it says 55% currently).  I'm also monitoring current usage car off and on just for fun...if this does indeed turn out to be the issue it's a little disappointing as I think the car should be designed to handle all of those options on but so be it.

I will be keeping an eye on it and see how it goes.

[SHOdded]

Yeah system capacity is an issue.  So if you are running a lot of demand with remote start, available power is diverted away from the battery and to the aux systems.  Considering that the car is really idling when remote started, and that the max alternator output doesn't happen until AFTER 2,000+ rpm (or 75-80 mph).  You would need to put in a rebuilt alternator that raises the entire curve, I would say 1/3 to 1/2.  And that is a LOT.

For a 2007 Edge, for example
78/143 amp (max) @ 620-2500 engine rpm @ normal engine temperature

[ZSHO]

I forgot to mention besides deactivating the above mentioned features for remote start,also found the remote start feature to put extra stress on the battery due to the blower motor coming on (Full blast automatically) upon remote startup! 
So essentially cutting down on the remote start feature should ultimately help out in the long run since our vehicles are virtually identical!!

I wish there was a way to deactivate the blower motor from coming on full blast!!!!! 
BTW by following the above mentioned procedure the(BMS)has never come back on!!     hope this helps any.  Z

[ecoboostsho]

I forgot to mention besides deactivating the above mentioned features for remote start,also found the remote start feature to put extra stress on the battery due to the blower motor coming on full blast automatically upon remote startup! 
So essentially cutting down on the remote start feature should ultimately help out in the long run IMO!
I wish there was a way to deactivate the blower motor from coming on full blast!!!!!  Z

Yes I've noticed that as well but with the other stuff off I'm hoping that will do it. Thanks again for the help everyone!

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[ZSHO]

I forgot to mention besides deactivating the above mentioned features for remote start,also found the remote start feature to put extra stress on the battery due to the blower motor coming on full blast automatically upon remote startup! 
So essentially cutting down on the remote start feature should ultimately help out in the long run IMO!
I wish there was a way to deactivate the blower motor from coming on full blast!!!!!  Z

Yes I've noticed that as well but with the other stuff off I'm hoping that will do it. Thanks again for the help everyone!

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I also lowered the startup time to 10 min on remote start!
Best of luck and Happy healthy 2018!  Z

[SHOdded]

one more thing:  auto headlamps.

[Brucelinc]

If you turn off the automatic climate control and just use the fan manually, it will not run at full blast.   I love having the heated seats and wheel on when I remote start or start with my phone but there is no need for the fan to run at high speed.

[ecoboostsho]

If you turn off the automatic climate control and just use the fan manually, it will not run at full blast.   I love having the heated seats and wheel on when I remote start or start with my phone but there is no need for the fan to run at high speed.

So the issue has returned. After driving for about a week and then letting the car sit most of the weekend I got in and drove to work without issue but as soon as I shut the car off it put the radio/sync system in shutoff to save battery. I fired up Forscan and added every battery related PID could fine. The battery charge state was only 33%.  The battery voltage it sees with the car on is a solid 14.6v and after driving for about 45 minutes the battery charge state was back to 39%. The car is even able to charge the battery at idle so it doesn't seem like a too much load problem. Battery voltage with car off but ignition on was 12.9v which seems high enough? but still got the immediate radio shutoff message.  It seems like the battery is taking a charge but it either can't keep it or something is draining it.  I did read all about the BMS system and I never did reset it with Forscan so my current plan is to fully charge the battery out of the car,  run the BMS reset, and then monitor the car non stop with Forscan to see if the battery charge state is mysteriously dropping overnight. If this still occurs its off to get my basically new battery tested.

I included a screenshot of the PIDs...

Any other thoughts are welcome!

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