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2014 SHO PP PTU fill and drain

Started by wraitherx, July 18, 2017, 09:08:12 PM

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wraitherx

So I just wanted to share with everyone about my experience with draining and filling the PTU on my 14 PP.

A little background... I am the second owner of my SHO. I purchased it back in '15 with under 17k on the odo. Whether or not the fluid was changed prior to my ownership is anyone's guess but I will side on the assumption of no. I have roughly 45k on the odo now and have never changed it so I was getting anxious. I drive about 50 miles round trip from work and they are all highway miles with speeds between 65-75. On occasion when driving around town I'll open her up. Just some background of my driving habits.

My first step was I went a grabbed some 1/4" ID fuel hose from autozone, 2 1/2' worth, as well as some 5/8"-1/4" hose clamps in case I didn't have any.

The thought of how much a pain it was to fill on the PP had me thinking and after reading a couple of posts it seems like people were trying it and never really reporting back. At least not what I saw. The method I am mentioning is to fill it through the PTU vent hose after extending it out to the brake booster to which mine is located. I was able to pull the OEM vent tube off and managed to snake my arm in a way to install the new hose but was not able to tighten the hose clamp but after thinking about it I didn't want to tighten it just yet.

So I couldn't find anything to protect the O2 sensor and I didn't want it getting all over the place so I took some aluminum foil and made a make shift cover for the 02 while also routing the oil where I want it to go. Once I got the drain plug off to my surprise the gear oil was runny and not thick and building up into gunk. Once all of the fluid was drained and stopped dropping I tested out pouring some fluid into the vent tube just to ensure that fluid was going into it and sure enough it was. I left the hose clamp on the hose loosened in the event that it wasn't going into the PTU and I could pull the hose and allow the oil to drain. I couldn't find a funnel small enough so I placed the bottle into the opening of the vent tube and just proceeded to squeeze. I squeezed the bottle about 4-5 times and then after waiting about 5 seconds I would see the bottle return back to shape as well as gurgling from the vent tube draining and then I would repeat the process. It took me about 15 minutes to get 16oz's in which is what was taken out.

My oil of choice this time around was Mobile 1 and will be switching out to redline on the next go around.

All in all it's a huge relief to have it done and to know that it wasn't gunked up like some other have reported and by far a lot easier than dropping the down pipes and all the other things involved with the PP just to get to the fill.

Here are some quick vids and a picture.

Fluid drain
https://youtu.be/SBQAf8iIYJw

Me running a magnet through the fluid and picking stuff up.
https://youtu.be/3D36YVKB3t4

And then the vent tube installed and what I wiped off the magnet after running it through the fluid.

Hope this helps anyone out there!




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2014 SHO PP
1999 SVT Cobra Built

wraitherx

Master cylinder. Not brake booster. Lol. Was thinking of something similar location when I had my cobras.


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2014 SHO PP
1999 SVT Cobra Built

Vortech347

This will likely be the method I use as well.  Thanks for the write up.
Matt H.
2013 SHO Performance Pack, Daily, AJPTurbo tuned
2003 SVT Cobra 497rwhp/491rwtq, Self tuned, Cruiser
1990 Mustang GT 570rwhp/530twtq, Self tuned, Open Track
2017 F150 XLT 5.0

wraitherx

Quote from: Vortech347 on July 18, 2017, 09:16:00 PM
This will likely be the method I use as well.  Thanks for the write up.

No problem at all. Glad to help the community out getting a job done easier. Like I said, I never saw and concrete proof on doing it other than the vid of the interceptor and wanted to find out for myself.


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2014 SHO PP
1999 SVT Cobra Built

avidmotion

Has anyone else tried this way? If this is the new best way it really does look simpler then fighting under the car on ramps to drain and fill. Drain still might be hard but the bummer was the fill and this seems too easy?
Sp542@.028, windstorm CAI, MSD coils, AO GH TUNE, GH intercooler, All Amsoil, General Gmax-rs summer tires, +PP, PP PADS,EDC rotors, Colinite 476s wax, used PPE DPs, Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete with custom X pipe, Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts|, 3 bar, stock thermostat,  TRACY LEWIS DESIGNED Team RXP, the Original oil separator.

SM105K

#5
Quote from: avidmotion on April 28, 2018, 10:00:21 PM
Has anyone else tried this way? If this is the new best way it really does look simpler then fighting under the car on ramps to drain and fill. Drain still might be hard but the bummer was the fill and this seems too easy?

I did this exact method.  Hardest part was getting the PTU breather off of the PTU.  I used my fingers.  Other than that, refilling it took the most time.  My fluid wasn't too bad, however the powertrain was noticeably different (smoother) with the new PTU Oil.  I used Mobil 1 gear oil. 
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

ZSHO

#6
Quote from: sm105k on November 06, 2018, 08:57:41 AM
Quote from: avidmotion on April 28, 2018, 10:00:21 PM
Has anyone else tried this way? If this is the new best way it really does look simpler then fighting under the car on ramps to drain and fill. Drain still might be hard but the bummer was the fill and this seems too easy?

I did this exact method.  Hardest part was getting the PTU breather off of the PTU.  I used my fingers.  Other than that, refilling it took the most time.  My fluid wasn't too bad, however the powertrain was noticeably different (smoother) with the new PTU Oil.  I used Mobil 1 gear oil.
FYI- I would avoid using Mobil 1 Gear oil IMHO!!! @ 30K it was black which is normal but found a bit of sludge forming which was not a good sign! I recently changed over to Redline all around and the car seems much happier...

I would specifically stick with Redline or Amsoil especially for the PTU.. Some food for thought.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SM105K

#7
Quote from: ZSHO on November 06, 2018, 11:25:32 AM
Quote from: sm105k on November 06, 2018, 08:57:41 AM
Quote from: avidmotion on April 28, 2018, 10:00:21 PM
Has anyone else tried this way? If this is the new best way it really does look simpler then fighting under the car on ramps to drain and fill. Drain still might be hard but the bummer was the fill and this seems too easy?

I did this exact method.  Hardest part was getting the PTU breather off of the PTU.  I used my fingers.  Other than that, refilling it took the most time.  My fluid wasn't too bad, however the powertrain was noticeably different (smoother) with the new PTU Oil.  I used Mobil 1 gear oil.
FYI- I would avoid using Mobil 1 Gear oil IMHO!!! @ 30K it was black which is normal but found a bit of sludge forming which was not a good sign! I recently changed over to Redline all around and the car seems much happier...

I would specifically stick with Redline or Amsoil especially for the PTU.. Sum food for thought.  Z

Good to know Z. Thank you. I have roughly 10,000 miles on my Mobil 1 "PTU" fluid.  I am at 66,000 miles.  At 70,000 I was going to change the RDU fluid, and since I will be there already, I will change out the Mobil 1 with Redline.  Pretty sure I will just end up changing all the driveline fluids yearly.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SM105K

"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

Agentlongwood

I get so jealous when I see these write ups where you just have to remove the drain plug from the PTU...
2014 Lincoln MKS - Sold... And I still miss it sometimes

HD-Rugby

How would I do this on a Non PP 2019 SHO? I'd rather not take it to a Dealership. Do the Down Pipes have to come off? I want to get this done when I hit 20K to see what I have, and may go with the catted ceramic coated down pipes to handle the heat. I still need to pass the PA state inspections....

SHOdded

All 2010-2019 non-PP SHOs will have the same basic drain/fill procedure.  No need to remove downpipes.  Follow glock-coma's writeup in the HowTo section.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

802SHO

I recently did this with my 2010 and it was made simple by this suction device.  I did not find hardly any build up on the fill plug and emptied a entire quart of Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in there, in a roundabout way doing my version of a flush....eventually it was pure redline oil coming out...let it stop dripping and put the plug back on. 

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC
IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20

shoNoff

Quote from: 802SHO on July 28, 2019, 08:58:23 AM
I recently did this with my 2010 and it was made simple by this suction device.  I did not find hardly any build up on the fill plug and emptied a entire quart of Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in there, in a roundabout way doing my version of a flush....eventually it was pure redline oil coming out...let it stop dripping and put the plug back on. 

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00OM751EC

I'm buying one of those to do the new car. That's a slick little vacuum pump.
2013 SHO PP 12.51 @ 110.07 AJP tuned sold
2016 edge sport 13.92 @ 99.4 mph. slow and stock baby mobile