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How install Megan coil overs.

Started by crash712us, January 22, 2014, 06:08:23 PM

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SHOnUup

Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 22, 2015, 02:13:17 PM
Thanks! Looks like that is one upgrade I don't need!
I bought them with the thought/impression that they would fit in the smaller holes on the coilovers...oops

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2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

Jeremy S.

Thank you for the addition information on this install.  I did want to confirm a couple of things before I proceed with the install. 

In regards to your 2nd note:  Did you just leave the factory washers on the rubber bushings and reuse those with the new Megan shock?  Did you reuse the stock nut as well for the top of the shock? 

I understand that the front sway bar end link hole on the coil-over needs to be made larger to 14mm to accommodate the stock sway bar end link bolt.  Others have stated that the stock nut for the sway bar end links are too long and don't fully engage on the stock bolts once mounted to the coil over.  Is this as simple as just getting a smaller nut that will fit on the stock end link bolt? 

Were there any issues reusing the stock sway bar end link nut in the rears?  In summary to complete this install I will just need:

1.  14mm drill bit to make end link holes on front coil-over larger
2.  Discard Megan hardware for rear shocks and reuse factory hardware (rubber bushings, washers and nut).
3.  Purchase 2 smaller sized nuts to fit on the stock M14 x70mm sway bar end link bolts in the front. 

The SHO is my only car so I would hate to get everything taken apart and not have everything I need with no way to get to the parts store.  Thanks in advance for the help. 

Also does anyone have torque specs for the installation?  Thanks.

-Jeremy


Quote from: crash712us on January 22, 2014, 06:08:23 PM
Not sure this the best way to do this, so mods work your magic if you can.


This is more a amendment to 4dr's how to.

I found a few critical things not outlined in 4dr's post

1 orientation of front struts mounting plate. I have no picture's detailing this nor does 4dr. But the megan coil overs top mount plate has half circle cut out of the mounting plate. That cut out must point inward toward engine, if install pointing away coil over will not be center in tower and top nut will rub tower.

2. rear coil upper mount, 4dr says remove upper rubber bushing from factory washer, do not do this. I did and the wash they provided pull thru twice with in a few miles. And is not necessary, however you will notice the nut that is caged in this assembly, simply pry off cage and discard nut.

3. It mentioned in 4dr thread, you will need to enlarge stabilizer bar end link hole. To 14mm most drill sets only go to 1/2 or 13mm so you will need to pick this up and you want one that has a reduce shank as most drill chuck are only 1/2"

Other these few items its is straight forward job and should only take about 3hrs, now for you guys 2013 or newer should about half that you get to skip removing entire steering knuckle.

Original post:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=675

boostedflex

Hey all will grade 8.8 bolts be sufficient for this?
2017 Explorer Sport
Stock

2012 Flex, sold
Unleashed 93 tune, 170 degree t-stat, Airaid intake, Motorcraft SP534 plugs