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PTU Oil Change (Tons of Pics) 2016 Explorer Sport

Started by Lexingtonian, May 14, 2017, 03:03:05 AM

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Lexingtonian

FYI - you have to Log In to the forum to see the photos -

Decided to tackle the PTU change on my 2016 XSport. My truck has 16,521 miles today. Got motivated around 9:30pm to do the job. Its now 2am as I type this. I went very slow and was deliberate about everything. Had several resets on the PTU vent hose routing. Tightening the hose clamp was a bit of a bear. Like an idiot I wasted 30 minutes and wicked hand cramps trying to tighten it with a straight blade screwdriver before I switched to a socket setup (DUH). I learned a few things and came up with a trick or two I hadn't seen yet. I'd like to thank this gent for putting up the YouTube Vid on how it looks in a '14 Police Interceptor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2t2YR1LVN3s A few things changed since the '14 and they are:

1. The Hex PTU Drain Plug is 1/4" (not 8mm or 3/8 drive) on 2016. This was HUGELY convenient for reasons you'll see in a bit.
2. The PTU Vent Hose has a different clip that you see in the Video Clip above for the '14. It pulls out easily. The hose looks shorter as well. It pulls off the PTU nipple very easy by the way.
3. The hose you should purchase is 5/16 i.d. Fuel Line (not the clear vinyl crap, get the good stuff) as pictured below. 2 feet is perfect, you'll end up trimming off approx 6 inches when complete.



A couple Photos of the OEM Piece next to the 5/16 fuel line.







This is approximately what is poking out when properly routed (of 2ft 5/16id fuel line)









To orient you here, on the bottom right of the photo is the top of the PTU and you can see the new PTU Vent hose (Fuel Line) hanging with the Hose Clamp. The top of the photo is the firewall shielding. I'm laying in a creeper nearly fully rolled under the truck (I'm 6' 2") looking up to get this view from behind the PTU. On top of the PTU you can see two aluminum coolant lines (think that's what they are) running parallel to one another. Behind that is where the nipple is. Taking the factory vent hose off, putting the new on one and tightening it down is a 100% blind operation. It can only be done from the ground working up. Don't even attempt it from the top on the explorer, there is no way to get to it. I tried. (trust me)







I managed to get a photo of the nipple you'll be installing the fuel line on. (it was tricky)









...Here's where about an hour of head scratching and thinkin' came to bear. I knew as soon as I pulled the plug the casted races on the PTU under the drain plug would fill and oil would find multiple pathways away to the ground. I really didn't want that. I filled the indented races with foam like you'd seal a window or door with and ensure it was in there pretty solid. You can see that pictured here.







Then I used duct tape to build a dam and predictable drain race for the oil once the plug came out. Next few photos is me building it. One of the O2 Sensors in the Cat is RIGHT FREAKING UNDER the drain plug, the photos do a poor job of demonstrating just how close and just how dead-nuts center that darn O2 Sensor is. I knew if I dropped the plug it'd end up all.over.my.exhaust. I just freaking didn't want the mess. Without further adieu... My solution.






















Solution worked beautifully! Here's a video for a little more perspective with the gear oil draining down the duct tape - (Is there a way to embed the video??)

http://youtu.be/SDMiz-6NJGw





Here's what ended up in the bucket. I allowed the drain plug to fall down the duct tape chute and lie in the bottom of the fluid in the white bowl till it slowed way down. Took about 45 mins for the fluid to slow to a very slow drip. When I got ready to take the photo of the oil and the plug, I used a neo magnet to pull the plug up out of the oil so I could grab it. ...and lookee yonder... It has a little "hair" on it. There was quite a bit of metal in the fluid I show that in a couple of the fluid photos. You can see the sheen of the steel shavings. I was able run that powerful magnet under the bowl and see the steel change in reaction to the magnet. More metal than I'd like.

I also show the plug up close along with the color of the fluid as drained on the paper towel next to the black crap from the magnet. Fluid looks clean'ish while draining, but in the white bowl, looks a little darker -
























Notice the sheen in the oil, that's steel folks -











Now for a neat trick, since the drain plug is 1/4".. You can use any of your fancy drill accessories with a 1/4" socket to help give you possibilities on how to attack the drain plug. I began removing the plug using two different lengths 1/4" hex keys. That crap got old quick. Then I got my kung-fu together.. (that, along with a stubby socket wrench..)















In the end, heres the tools I used to remove/reinstall the PTU Drain Plug.(all 1/4")




Draining the oil into an old Mobile1 Bottle so I could measure what I caught. You can see where the drain plug was -





I ended up catching about 12 ounces. I put 3 ounces in the Blackstone Labs bottle and saw around 8 in the Mobile 1 Bottle. I ordered both tests on the PTU Oil. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out. I refilled about 15 ounces just to ensure it wasn't under-filled.




When refilling from the top, it takes a while! about an hour or so. The oil drains slowly down the tube, gets hydrolocked then bubbles then drains some more. I recommend having a bit of space in funnel as there are times when it gurgles quite bit and pushes some of the fluid back up as it occurs. Here's one of the bubbles... and finally the 5/8 i.d. fuel line with the ford vent inserted in it.






It was kind of a pain, but now that I know how to do it I could probably do the work in about an hour. Cheers gents, hope this helps someone - my plan is to drive it a week or so and drain/refill again. Might wait till I get the Blackstone Report and do a flush with the drain plug out.

Lex -
2016 Explorer Sport Metallic
93 Octane AJP Tune (SCT X4)
3Bar MAP
Plugs at .030

ZSHO

Lexingtonian Excellent "writeup" .Z  :thumb:
BTW might need to move this to "How to" section!!. Z  :)


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

FearlessAZ

Very good write up!
2010 Non PP Sho. All the factory goodies. (RIP)


2015 MKS Ecoboost. All the factory goodies. (SOLD)

SHOdded

X2!  Great insight on the hurdles and potential solutions :thumb:
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

lamrith

Nice writeup.  Though I will say, from your title I thought you were going to outline replacing the PTU, not the oil in it...
'13 Sho PP, SCT x4, AJP 92-Octane rev6 (14psi&20spark) NGK 6510, 3Bar, K&N CAI, PPE Catted DP, Dynomax Axleback, 20*9.5 Voxx Lago w/ 275/40-20 GMAX AS-05.

Lexingtonian

Quote from: lamrith on May 14, 2017, 12:42:15 PM
Nice writeup.  Though I will say, from your title I thought you were going to outline replacing the PTU, not the oil in it...

Very true. Fixed! It was, as I said 2am as I was putting up the post (in my defense) - Cheers!
2016 Explorer Sport Metallic
93 Octane AJP Tune (SCT X4)
3Bar MAP
Plugs at .030

lamrith

Quote from: Lexingtonian on May 14, 2017, 01:13:23 PM
Quote from: lamrith on May 14, 2017, 12:42:15 PM
Nice writeup.  Though I will say, from your title I thought you were going to outline replacing the PTU, not the oil in it...

Very true. Fixed! It was, as I said 2am as I was putting up the post (in my defense). Cheers!
No worries, I am just shocked nobody else noticed it.  VERY good writeup!
'13 Sho PP, SCT x4, AJP 92-Octane rev6 (14psi&20spark) NGK 6510, 3Bar, K&N CAI, PPE Catted DP, Dynomax Axleback, 20*9.5 Voxx Lago w/ 275/40-20 GMAX AS-05.

BlueSHO

Awesome write up and will help a lot when I do mine.

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2016 SHO Blue Jeans
2001 Lightning
1996 Mystic Cobra

wraitherx

Thanks for the write up!  I've been wanting to do this but didn't find anything definitive. Now time to go get this done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2014 SHO PP
1999 SVT Cobra Built

Gjkrisa

The drain plugs like that are meant to use a 1/4 in wrench learned that from Subaru diff

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

Lexingtonian

Quote from: Gjkrisa on May 14, 2017, 05:40:02 PM
The drain plugs like that are meant to use a 1/4 in wrench learned that from Subaru diff

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Yep, no doubt. I was working with the tools I had on hand. I'm considering getting a swivel head socket wrench but the mini ratchet worked great in the end. Starting over, I'd break the torque if need be with the long allen wrench then finish up with the ratchet.
2016 Explorer Sport Metallic
93 Octane AJP Tune (SCT X4)
3Bar MAP
Plugs at .030

Lexingtonian

The oil goes out to Blackstone tomorrow, I cant wait for the results. In fact, I'm certainly concerned about the levels of metal in the fluid. I'm thinking these things need to be changed 1000-3000 miles after manufacture to flush the break-in metals. My magnet was saturated to the point of being ineffective.   
2016 Explorer Sport Metallic
93 Octane AJP Tune (SCT X4)
3Bar MAP
Plugs at .030

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

Quote from: Lexingtonian on May 14, 2017, 10:01:22 PM
My magnet was saturated to the point of being ineffective.

Mine was too, and I changed it for the first time @ 30k. I'm only ~3k miles from my 15,000k interval where I plan to send in a new sample to see if my readings have improved with the Amsoil Severe Gear.

My fingers are crossed (for the both of us) as well. :)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

Lexingtonian

2016 Explorer Sport Metallic
93 Octane AJP Tune (SCT X4)
3Bar MAP
Plugs at .030