Tracked the SHO

[donky4444]

This is great to hear.  I'm considering taking mine to a DE day with some friends that run their Porsche's just to have some fun.  I have a 2014 PP.  I do have a few questions for you though:

1. did you run the stock brake set up, pads, rotors and fulid

I ran stock fluid and OEM pads.  I didn't push it in the braking zones all that hard, but it did do better than I expected for a fat pig of a car.  I would highly recommend having the system flushed with fresh fluid, and pads should have more than 50% life left on them, the more the better. 

2. did you run in full auto or paddle shift

I used the paddle shift.  Having the trans auto downshift in the middle of the turn unsettles the car, and near the limit that could be a bad thing.  The track I was on, is pretty slow as tracks go, I was able to do the entire track in 3rd and 4th, only needing 4th for a little bit on the straights. 

I know we had a member that auto crossed his and he ran some racing pads but I can't recall what brand he ran.  I know they offered a few different versions for our car based on how hard you planned on pushing and they differed based on operating temp range.

I know Hawk makes a few heavy service pads, but I am not sure if they are better or worse than the PP pads.  The problem with the heavy service pads is they work great when hot, but are the suxor on the street when temps aren't in their "butter zone".  You will destroy rotors if you use race pads on the street.

Thanks in advance

Anytime.  I am glad to answer any questions anyone has.  I put myself in the right seat of a novice driver and teach them how to go fast because I want to see more people out there on track having fun. My Sunday student was a first timer with a 750hp Z06, and he wanted to use all of it.  Quite a ride...

Thank you for the tips.  If I do track it I plan on doing a brake fluid flush and fill with high temp fluid.  I also plan on getting a new set of rotors to go along with track pads and just use them for the track and then revert back to normal set up for the street.  The track I would be going to is Grattan Raceway in Michigan which has a pretty long straight that ends at a turn that is better than 90* so it's pretty tough on brakes.  If I do it then it will be mid June so I need to get working on my set up soon.

[Half-Fast]

220 is barely above normal operating temp...i thought the bypass valve for the cooler doesnt even open until close to 200...alternatively if the trans fluid temp was 150 im not even sure if thats warm enough to be in the sweet spot of trans fluid temps

Fair enough.  I am open to learning more.  I based my decision on where to set the redline on the gauge on what this guy says http://transmissionrepairguy.com/transmission-overheating/  He could be wrong of course, but his numbers seem to jive with what others have said according to the internets. 

In summary, the link says under 175 is fine, 175 and over you start to shorten the life of the fluid.  Over 220, varnish starts to form, over 240 and seals start to harden, it gets worse from there.  For reference, the temp was 150-154 at 60 mph for the 44 mile trip home.  Ambient temp was in the 60's, and on hills it would go up a bit, then drop back down after the mountain.

In fairness how many 45k cars are up to the task of hot lapping a road course?...i wouldnt want it to be track ready...kind of like when they run the slalom in minivans and trucks in motorweek lol who cares...i juts dont see the fun in taking the 4400lb sho on the track ...i guess if its all you have then i could see it

As an instructor, tracking what you drive is a fantastic way to learn what your car will do in an extreme situation.  This translates to the street and may help you get out of a tight situation as you will know what to expect.  Is anyone going to go out and buy a SHO for track days, not likely, and not my choice either.  I'd say that the guy who use to track his Tercel was told the same thing (until he drove the piss out of it and surprised everyone).  I much prefer to race my Honda Accord.. Running an uncommon car fast is a reward of it's own.

Still hoping to get your feed back on this Aj... 

[SHOdded]

Might want to PM him, he's keeping pretty busy.

[Half-Fast]

Might want to PM him, he's keeping pretty busy.

Did crickets

[AJP turbo]

You mention you have all stock fluids...i cant think of a scenario why anyone would take their car on a track unless they wanted to document at what point failures or symptoms of an abused car.

I would call amsoil and ask if the temps you are seeing is a problem...and you might want to consider using a real synthetic fluid such as amsoil signature series...group iv oils are completely different and seemingly indestructible so i would think amsoils signature series atf 220 is nothing

Maybe you should get some good oil in the trans engine and ptu and the temps may not even get that high

[metroplex]

Group IV base stocks will probably get just as hot but may or may not breakdown quicker.

[AJP turbo]

Group IV base stocks will probably get just as hot but may or may not breakdown quicker.

Correct....so in reality i would just continue to use motorcraft stuff or off the shelf Coastal or wolfs head oils and at least save yourself some money

There has been some good tests conducted by some members demonstrating that high octane fuel and synthetic oils were not necessary

Also while you are at it i would look into drilling a hole in your intercooler to help with misfires....ive heard that helps also

[Brucelinc]

Now that AJ is funny, I don't care who you are!

[SHOdded]

Got to remember:  additive packs make the oil what they are.  Once the packs are chewed through, the type of oil makes a difference.  So oil changes should be appropriate to use.

I have heard that Amsoil Sig ATF runs 20-30F cooler than OEM.

[Half-Fast]

You mention you have all stock fluids...i cant think of a scenario why anyone would take their car on a track unless they wanted to document at what point failures or symptoms of an abused car.

I would call amsoil and ask if the temps you are seeing is a problem...and you might want to consider using a real synthetic fluid such as amsoil signature series...group iv oils are completely different and seemingly indestructible so i would think amsoils signature series atf 220 is nothing

Maybe you should get some good oil in the trans engine and ptu and the temps may not even get that high

Not a bad idea.

I guess I was looking more for information RE your original contention that over 180 isn't a problem with OEM quality fluids.  You said "220 is barely above normal operating temp" which is 40 degrees above what the link I posted said was to be considered max.

Not arguing your position, only looking for a source as 180 seems to be the only number I can find as a point when the fluid starts to break down.  Learn me...

Oh, and thanks for getting back.  I am sure you're busy, and I appreciate the advise.

[AJP turbo]

To be honest im not sure what the operating temp of the 6f55 is..but i wouldve guessed 200

I cant see it being much lower than that considering the trans fluid runs through the radiator and with a stock thermostat the coolant is is at least  190 ish

[Half-Fast]

To be honest im not sure what the operating temp of the 6f55 is..but i wouldve guessed 200

I cant see it being much lower than that considering the trans fluid runs through the radiator and with a stock thermostat the coolant is is at least  190 ish

Makes sense.  On a car with no aux cooler, it is going to be pretty close to what ever the coolant temp is, and I agree that's over 180..  Interesting...

More research to be done

[Half-Fast]

Okay, a closer look tells me I may have been too conservative.  The chart above really says 220 is the start of where "things go bad".  When I read closer, he says under 180 for max life of fluid.

Thanks for making me think harder on this

[92BlackGT]

To be honest im not sure what the operating temp of the 6f55 is..but i wouldve guessed 200

I cant see it being much lower than that considering the trans fluid runs through the radiator and with a stock thermostat the coolant is is at least  190 ish

the trans cooler is on the cool side of the radiator, so the coolant will cooler than 190

[Half-Fast]

the trans cooler is on the cool side of the radiator, so the coolant will cooler than 190

Another great point!