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I seem to have picked up a new noise.

Started by Wardog692, March 23, 2017, 11:02:26 PM

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Wardog692

I was out doing a few 0-60 launches tonight and noticed a new noise, a constant clicking from (I believe) the front suspension. The click is wheel speed dependant (I.e. clicks faster as speed increases). I did a quick visual when I got home and didn't notice anything unusual, no sticks or anything. Am I right in thinking this is most likely a CV joint issue?
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

lamrith

Quote from: Wardog692 on March 23, 2017, 11:02:26 PM
I was out doing a few 0-60 launches tonight and noticed a new noise, a constant clicking from (I believe) the front suspension. The click is wheel speed dependant (I.e. clicks faster as speed increases). I did a quick visual when I got home and didn't notice anything unusual, no sticks or anything. Am I right in thinking this is most likely a CV joint issue?
Check your tire tread.  I have seen tires delaminate and have a flapper that will make noise...
'13 Sho PP, SCT x4, AJP 92-Octane rev6 (14psi&20spark) NGK 6510, 3Bar, K&N CAI, PPE Catted DP, Dynomax Axleback, 20*9.5 Voxx Lago w/ 275/40-20 GMAX AS-05.

pmezo33


Wardog692

Quote from: pmezo33 on March 23, 2017, 11:52:40 PM
Check for a nail in one of your tires
Man I really hope I didn't miss something this obvious, but it's possible!  I'll check in a bit.
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

Wardog692

Quote from: Wardog692 on March 24, 2017, 07:07:51 AM
Quote from: pmezo33 on March 23, 2017, 11:52:40 PM
Check for a nail in one of your tires
Man I really hope I didn't miss something this obvious, but it's possible!  I'll check in a bit.
Visually checked the tires this morning, no nails seen and no tires were low. Drove to work a different way (as I can only hear the sound when I drive next to walls/woods/something for the sound to bounce off of) and still noticed the noise. It almost sounds like a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle. I did notice it seems to be marginally louder/more noticeable when I'm on the brakes, even gently.

The reason I'm thinking CV joint is because I noticed my driver's one had some old residual grease on the surrounding parts about 6 months or so ago. I brought my car in for a ton of warranty work (new PTU, rear turbo, A/C, and check on CV joint) but I have a sneaking suspicion that the shop got so busy dealing with the PTU and turbo they forgot about the CV joint. In looking at it, the part really doesn't look all that new, but I don't see any fresh signs of grease/oil anywhere so idk.
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

SHOdded

It is well worth checking the CV joint, given the info you supplied.  Don't want to run out of grease in that area, that's for sure!

I would also check brakes and strut mount.  You have OEM parts on there now?  How many miles?

BTW, other sources of "fluid" in the area can include the control arm and motor mount.  Both have hydraulic components to them.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Wardog692

Quote from: SHOdded on March 24, 2017, 07:46:40 AM
It is well worth checking the CV joint, given the info you supplied.  Don't want to run out of grease in that area, that's for sure!

I would also check brakes and strut mount.  You have OEM parts on there now?  How many miles?

BTW, other sources of "fluid" in the area can include the control arm and motor mount.  Both have hydraulic components to them.
Brakes are aftermarket drilled/slotted units from Brake Performance, but other than that, everything is stock. Brakes are basically brand new, put them on a few months ago and that's when I noticed the CV joint leaking. I'm gonna call the shop today and see if they can confirm whether or not they took care of the CV joint issue or not when it was in for warranty work.

As for the control arm/motor mount, what can I do from home w/o a jack to check the condition of those? I'm not super mechanically inclined, but I'm interested in learning!

Thanks for the advice so far guys!
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

pmezo33

A bad control arm bushing / ball joint or motor mount is not going to make those types of noise that you're describing. 

What you're describing really sounds like a nail or something stuck in a tire.  A rock can get stuck in the tread.  Nails can be hard to notice while they're on the car.  I'd take each individual tire off the car and inspect.  This way you're 100% sure it's not tire related.

Also make sure the heat shield isn't rubbing anywhere on your rotors.

Any recent work done lately?

Wardog692

Quote from: pmezo33 on March 24, 2017, 11:08:22 AM
A bad control arm bushing / ball joint or motor mount is not going to make those types of noise that you're describing. 

What you're describing really sounds like a nail or something stuck in a tire.  A rock can get stuck in the tread.  Nails can be hard to notice while they're on the car.  I'd take each individual tire off the car and inspect.  This way you're 100% sure it's not tire related.

Also make sure the heat shield isn't rubbing anywhere on your rotors.

Any recent work done lately?
I did find a small rock in the rear tire, removed it, and still heard the noise. Unfortunately I don't really have the means to remove the tires and check, I can just inch the car forward and get out a flashlight.

I have recently put on the rotors and pads, a few months ago, with the help of a traveling garage mechanic. I also had it taken in to a legit shop for some warranty work, and in that they were supposed to check the driver's CV joint, but I don't think they actually did, so I've got a feeling it has just gotten worse. I'll see if I can feel around my rotors to see if anything is possibly catching though.
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

AJP turbo

Just read this in more detail..usually only the tuning stuff and engine mods grab my attention

Your problem is the slots in the rotors...amd were your pads not chamfered? If not that will add to the problem

The give away was when you mentioned that you only hear it when driving next to walls...i know the sound...sounds like a baseball card in a wheel spoke of a bike

Rest easy friend
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

Wardog692

Quote from: AJP turbo on March 24, 2017, 12:07:36 PM
Just read this in more detail..usually only the tuning stuff and engine mods grab my attention

Your problem is the slots in the rotors...amd were your pads not chamfered? If not that will add to the problem

The give away was when you mentioned that you only hear it when driving next to walls...i know the sound...sounds like a baseball card in a wheel spoke of a bike

Rest easy friend
Ya know, I never even thought of that. My question is, I still do hear it even when I'm not on the brakes, so does that mean that my pads are still rubbing when they shouldn't be?

I'm trying to remember back to when I opened up the brake kit, but if I recall correctly I do believe they were chamfered.
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

AJP turbo

Even when you are not on the brakes you are hearing the air buffeting...and even if the pads are chamfered it will still do it but worse if not chamfered

My civic did this with slotted and dimpled rotors
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

pmezo33

I have those same exact brakes and rotors on my jeep.  The ebay special.  They're very quiet on my jeep. 

Wardog692

Quote from: pmezo33 on March 24, 2017, 01:48:48 PM
I have those same exact brakes and rotors on my jeep.  The ebay special.  They're very quiet on my jeep.
I love them so far, the only noise complaint I had from them was the noise from the slots shaving away at the brake pads, but that doesn't really bother me at all and it's barely noticeable.
2010 SHO 402b non PP
BOV VTA w/ K&N Breather Filters
mDesign CAI
35% Tint
BrakePerformance drilled/slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads

pmezo33

I've had them on my beater jeep for about 3 or 4 months now.  No complaints here.  Quiet, low dust, and nice bite.