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Vacuum/Boost Leak - Need HELP!

Started by derfdog15, March 06, 2017, 10:26:02 AM

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derfdog15

Hey guys,

I went to run my car at the track this weekend (Sunday) expecting to run atleast 12.5 or better possibly. First run out of the gate was a 12.9 so I felt O.K, every subsequent run was in the 13.9-14.5 range, so I figured something was wrong with the car, took a look at the boost gauge, and got some logs - sent to AJP - don't have them with me at work- and it looks like the car was SEVERELY underboosting (ie. 4 psi at WOT).

I checked all of my added vacuum/boost connections due to the Tial BOV, MV-S wastegate, etc. and didnt see an issue.I started the car to let it idle, and heard an air rushing noise on the drivers side, a little near the rear of the engine bay. Took a look at the CAI, and the coupler wasnt sitting on the factory piping, there was a gap, I assumed this was the entirety of the issue. Fixed it, however there is still an air rushing sound. There is another coupler near that area, that is an OEM clamp I have never touched, and I am afraid it may be warped.

Here is a pic from google,

The clamp I am concerned about is pictured right behind the hose connector. It seems that part of it is mated to the pipe as a one-piece assembly? however on the end facing the rear, it seems warped, but when putting my hand near it I do not feel any air.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. When I am home from work, I plan to let the car cool off, then jack it up, and double check all of the charge pipe connections that I can.

Edit: added pics of how the CAI was (now fixed) and the coupler I am concerned about. After fixing the CAI connection, I can get to 10-11 psi, but should be seeing closer to 16, or at the very least 14.5 as that is what the boost regulator is set for.

Thanks guys
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

ZSHO

#1
I would suspect it's coming from the brake booster "check valve."could be your culprit. Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

derfdog15

Quote from: ZSHO on March 06, 2017, 10:35:23 AM
I would suspect it's coming from the brake booster "check valve."could be your culprit. Z

Got a picture of that location? and possible a part number/install instructions?

I'm going to check at the dealer later. Seems if it is that, it should be covered under my powertrain warranty. BUT since the car is modded, per my sig, unless its a super expensive part, or really involved install, probably not worth it to risk having the car in the shop, since I would have to swap downpipes, charge pipes,CAI,MAP, possibly stat,  and retune to stock.

I plan to go to the dealer parts department this afternoon. If there is an easy way to check that booster would be great as well.

Thanks Z.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

ZSHO

#3
The two gray valves probably have a hair line crack which is causing your issue.
I would also check the plastic ring which could be "split" on intake. Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

derfdog15

That is pretty much right where the sound is coming from. Still odd that I can't get full boost due to that? And the brakes are fine as well, I know when I had a vacuum leak on the brake booster line previously I had like 5% brake functionality.

I'll go by the auto parts or the dealer this afternoon and grab the check valve just to be safe.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

AJP turbo

I dont think that line would bleed enough boost off...im thinking a large charge pipe connection or what about the end tanks of the intercooler....you were severely underboosting and wgdc was sky rocketing trying to achieve the targets....but you exceeded the underboost timer and it dump all boost and wgdc went to 0 i guess to protect itself

I looked at the logs again and you were at around 90% and barely at 5 or so psi...there should be a big release somewhere on the charge side so from compressor outlet and including the intake mani

What about your connection for the gate mod regulator?....i cant remember if you had a welded pipe or used the adhesive...maybe that was miwiau?
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

derfdog15

Quote from: AJP turbo on March 06, 2017, 11:26:34 AM
I dont think that line would bleed enough boost off...im thinking a large charge pipe connection or what about the end tanks of the intercooler....you were severely underboosting and wgdc was sky rocketing trying to achieve the targets....but you exceeded the underboost timer and it dump all boost and wgdc went to 0 i guess to protect itself

I looked at the logs again and you were at around 90% and barely at 5 or so psi...there should be a big release somewhere on the charge side so from compressor outlet and including the intake mani

What about your connection for the gate mod regulator?....i cant remember if you had a welded pipe or used the adhesive...maybe that was miwiau?

Mine is welded, I have a piece of hump hose between the welded flange on the regulator mod, and the outlet on the charge pipes. That is tight.

Based on where the sound is coming from, I would think it either is an intercooler connection, or right at the rear turbo. Its driver side, and sounds like its from the back. I'll double check the booster just in case, but it seems much to small to be still causing a 5psi loss - I am able to get to 10-11PSI at this point, rather than 5.

Worst case scenario, my dad, who has been a mechanic off and on for years, will come visit and help me track it I can't find the issue my self. Hopeing for something simple.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

SHOdded

That coupler/U-pipe looks busted and needs replacement.  I think Z is on to the trail, we had one other member have an issue with a pipe in that area before IIRC.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

derfdog15

Yeah I am thinking the coupler is the are of fault, thats why I posted that third picture. I think the U pipe/coupler in that area got damaged some how, and shifted back, and due to the shift back thats why the CAI got loose as well.

I can shift it even with the clamp all the way down. I'll have to get a part number or part from the dealer and replace it if possible. IDK if that coupler is part of the piping or separate.

Seems like it is split where I posted the pic, as it has a flap like opening on it.

On a side note- Called Airaid and told them that my CAI had been sitting loose, and I feared that the coupler had been warped. They sent one out free of charge. So far both times I have called them about a part I needed, they have sent a replacement free of charge, so definitely good service on their end.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

AJP turbo

You can take off all the compressor inlet piping from the cai to the turbos and that wont make you lose boost.....it has to be from the compressor outlets to the intake manifold
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

bpd1151

Funny to see an old pic of my engine bay still floating around out there.

Gotta love Google. Lol

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


derfdog15

Quote from: bpd1151 on March 06, 2017, 01:47:42 PM
Funny to see an old pic of my engine bay still floating around out there.

Gotta love Google. Lol

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I was like 99% sure it was yours due to the carbon fiber cover, so figured I would see if you chimed in, plus it was the correct angle.

Update: I am able to get the car to make a bit more than 4 PSI, but it alwayhs falls back down, ie. it goes to 4 psi, holds, and then spikes a bit, falls down again. The 10-11PSI I was seeing is still possible, but it tappers back down to 4 after a period of time.

My dad is driving up (From florida...I feel terrible he is driving all this way cause my car is being shitty) to help me diagnose. I checked all the connections I could, everything seemed tight, I even sprayed a soap and water mixture on the clamps/ connections I could get to, to see if it would bubble, but that did not occur. The issue seems to be comming from the rear turbo connection area, and I am thinking something is loose back there, but its a pain to get to it, and I have a lot going on for work.

Hopefully with the help of my dad we can find it and fix it.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

bpd1151

Have you verified both of your BOV's are functioning as designed?

The symptoms you've described are nearly identical to my own experiences when (one of the two) OEM BOV's crapped out on me.

Worth an inspection at the least, as they're not that difficult to R&R.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Frozen Blue

Did you mess with the lines that go to the EBC or to the turbo wastegates at all? Wastegate spring pressure is around 4-5psi IIRC.
2013 SHO non-pp
3 bar Map, 160° tstat
Powerstop Z23 rotors/pads
LMS v10