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Factory remote start not working

Started by dmharvey79, October 26, 2013, 07:23:23 PM

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dmharvey79

A while back my remote start began messing up, when I try to start the car (2013 SHO) the lights flash like they should but the car just makes a clunk noise (assume its the starter). I tried to disable and re-enable the remote start, changing up settings, updating SYNC, etc but no luck. The car always starts fine when I'm not trying to use the remote start.

Had my dealership look at it while the car was in the shop last week and they said it was good to go. I tried to use the remote start when I picked it up and same clunk sound / no start. One of the techs came out, switched on the 'quiet start' setting and the remote start worked. Today the remote start isn't working at all again, even after I tried to mess with the settings like I did before.

Has anybody else had this issue? If so, any insight into the problem so I can pass that along when I take the car back in? It would be nice to have the remote start working as the temp drops in the mornings.

74d34h

I've had my car for over a year same problem and the range is pathetic. I haven't brought it in because it's inconsistent. Now that winters about here I'm probably going to b*tch a lot more. The good thing is there is a timeout that once it resets you can attempt to start the car again. But it's easier for me to manually start it take the key and lock the car.
2013 SHO

stpolo

Raising this one up from the dead! 

I was searching this exact issue as I'm having it with my '13 SHO PP with only 30,000 miles on it.  :(  I'm going to switch out the battery in both key fobs to see if that is the issue, but I'm thinking not, as I hear it want to click and start, but the starter never fully engages and turns the engine over.  This is sporadic and happens with both key fobs.  Any updates to this are greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

SHOdded

Sometimes it is a bad PATS module, or BCM, but usually the culprit is a] vehicle battery, b] fob battery, or c] interference from other devices that might be in the pocket, on the keychain, or otherwise in close proximity.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ZSHO

#4
It could be the car Battery as SHOdded kindly mentioned above especially if original and is known to be a weak point on this platform. Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

donky4444

My 2014 has horrible range on the factory remote start and I changed the batteries on the remotes with no improvement.  I added a viper smart start since I park 2 blocks from the office in a ramp (factory would have never reached) but I am also wondering if my factory battery is going.  3 years old and 37k on original battery.
2017 Lincoln MKZ 3.0tt with LMS tune

2014 SHO 402a PP 20" flower wheels. LME  tune, 3 bar MAP, LED Puddle Lights and LED DRL's from Drive Bright, tinted head and tail lights, gloss black vinyl wrapped all chrome with custom chrome SHO emblems front and rear. SOLD

2015 X Sport LME 3 bar tune, LED Puddle and plate lights