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Knock Sensor Harness question

Started by Scott4957, February 17, 2017, 09:58:40 AM

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Scott4957

I've seen some pictures where it looks like there are only 2 yellow wires coming out of the harness on the drivers side near the head. Others "including mine" have two pairs "black and yellow" coming out of the harness. Is there a difference or am I just seeing things? Trying to track down possible false knock and I'm not sure if this harness goes to both knock sensors or if I have another harness and wires on the passenger side of the engine that I need to look at.

Thanks,
Scott
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

ZSHO



2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Scott4957

Thank you, I did see that. I'm confident there are 2 knock sensors, one for each bank. Just not sure on the wiring. That shows a single knock sensor with 4 wires. Not sure if that means the 4 wires I see on the drivers side harness is for a single sensor or if its actually 2 wires per sensor and the harness has both sensors on it. I covered the wires, did the whole zip tie deal and still have what could be false knock so I'm trying to figure out if I need to be looking for another harness or not. I'm sure AJP will get back to me via email while we are tuning for next steps but I am just trying to get out ahead of him and try to fix the issue if it is physical.

Thanks,
Scott
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

hawkeye93

#3
Each bank has a single sensor, but they are wired together in the same harness (#9 below).  There are 2 small wires bundled together that go to each sensor.



If you use Torque, you can log the raw data from each sensor independently.  That might help determine if your KR is related to a chafing wire.  In my case, the raw KS numbers are fairly even.

KS Raw
PID: 220403 (KS1) 220404 (KS2)
Max: 32768.0
Min: 0.0
Equation: ((A*256)+B)

Knock Correction
PID: 2203ec
Unit: deg
Max: 8.0
Min: -5.0
Equation: ((signed(A)*256)+B)/512
2015 Ford Taurus SHO PP 12.219@112.84
PPE catless DP, Gearhead IC, SP-534, Reische 170, 3 bar, hybrid meth system, tunes from Unleashed, Livernois, Brew City Boost & AJP

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible 289 4V/T5Z/3.55
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan 272 4V/Fordomatic

Scott4957

Excellent, that is what I was hoping for. And thank you for the info about Torque being able to see each individually. I assume if there is a major discrepancy between the two that I could have a bad sensor or wires/harness. I have torque and a bluetooth OBD2 reader, just need to get it all configured again.

Thanks,
Scott
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

Scott4957

Never added custom PID's before but I assume:

Equation: (((signed(A)*256)+B)/512

Should be

Equation: (((signed(A)*256)+B)/512) correct?
2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost, AJP Tuned

hawkeye93

#6
That should also work, but I just included an extra left parenthesis.  Should be:

((signed(A)*256)+B)/512

Being a software engineer, you'd think I could type, but sadly, no...

(fixed my original post)
2015 Ford Taurus SHO PP 12.219@112.84
PPE catless DP, Gearhead IC, SP-534, Reische 170, 3 bar, hybrid meth system, tunes from Unleashed, Livernois, Brew City Boost & AJP

1965 Ford Mustang Convertible 289 4V/T5Z/3.55
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan 272 4V/Fordomatic