17 DTC'S dead battery @ 125k miles....???

[68_GT]

ticking engine video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyToDADRWcg

thought it was a round rubbery gasket for the valve cover gasket ?

[AJP turbo]

IMHO would not remove the rear valve cover on a temporary basis because there is a silicone/sealant holding it together so essentially you will have to remove the old sealant carefully and install new silicone/sealant and let it cure for a while and also need to torque down the bolts properly to oem specs.  Z

You mean RTV?...nothing special its quite common...you realize dealer level mechanics slap it on and go and torque wrenches are rarely used....its a valve cover, clean the mating services and thoroughly degrease when applying rtv and dont over tighten the bolts since they are going into aluminum easy peasy...

[68_GT]

ticking engine video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyToDADRWcg

[pmezo33]

That doesn't sound good at all.  Sounds like metal on metal contact to me.  Possibly a rod knock.

What does your oil changes look like?  Metal shavings?  I'd cracked open an oil filter and see if it's catching anything.

[68_GT]

its coming from the top end I'm pretty sure. The car runs fine and the way I drive I think I would have blown it up by now if it was a rod. To my knowledge engines don't last long with knocking rods.

I just had a mechanic use a mechanics stethoscope and he agreed it seems to be coming from a lifter. oil is fresh and clean.

[SHOdded]

Sounds like a bad HPFP or rod knock.  That is NOT ticking.

[pmezo33]

I'm just basing this off what i hear in that clip.  Lifter noise is more of a tick.  The sound your car seems to be making is more of a knock.

Definitely no metal shavings anywhere in that oil or oil filter?

[pmezo33]

Sounds like a bad HPFP or rod knock.  That is NOT ticking.

Exactly what i'm hearing too.  Sounds like every other rod knock that i've ever heard.  This sounds nothing like a tick that you'd get from a lifter.

[SHOdded]

As long as a low oil pressure light does not come on, the rod knock won't do damage, generally.  If it does come on, no more driving.

[ZSHO]

IMHO would not remove the rear valve cover on a temporary basis because there is a silicone/sealant holding it together so essentially you will have to remove the old sealant carefully and install new silicone/sealant and let it cure for a while and also need to torque down the bolts properly to oem specs.  Z

You mean RTV?...nothing special its quite common...you realize dealer level mechanics slap it on and go and torque wrenches are rarely used....its a valve cover, clean the mating services and thoroughly degrease when applying rtv and dont over tighten the bolts since they are going into aluminum easy peasy...

Correct RTV/Sealant same crap different smell.lol.  Z
Motorcraft #TA357 SEALANT - SILICONE (TA357)
Pics below.


https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-TA357-SEALANT-SILICONE/dp/B0065T1N8I/ref=sr_1_1/165-7563507-2835908?ie=UTF8&qid=1488478838&sr=8-1&keywords=ford%2Fmotorcraft+TA+357+SEALANT

[68_GT]

the high flow fuel pump is the silver thing on the front top of the engine right ? has the foam noise dampner on it ?

[68_GT]

considering worst case scenario here if I needed an engine here what would you guys do ?
thinking to get a used complete engine out of a wrecked car or get a deal on a new Ford engine assembly ? maybe an upgrade engine with Ford racing ?? sheez.... My dealer wanted $5k for a long block and $10k for a whole new engine.

[derfdog15]

considering worst case scenario here if I needed an engine here what would you guys do ?
thinking to get a used complete engine out of a wrecked car or get a deal on a new Ford engine assembly ? maybe an upgrade engine with Ford racing ?? sheez.... My dealer wanted $5k for a long block and $10k for a whole new engine.

If you end up needing a new engine, I would go with either a SuperSix Motorsports or Livernois shortblock (or longblock if available). May cost a little more than a stock short/longblock, but will make more power, and be able to handle said increased power.

The cheaper option would be a used unit out of a car that was in a rear end collision, etc. but you never know how that was cared for.

[SHOdded]

Correct that is the HPFP.  Hopefully that is making the racket.

I believe RandR10 is looking for a replacement engine for his Flex and says that 13+ engines are easily sourced on eBay.    New engines will be more difficult, Ford seems to have a backlog.  And yeah, they are expensive to find and install.

[68_GT]

I just talked to Tousley Ford and they say a new engine is $4600 discounted to $3,700 for the good guy discount. New engine is basically a long block. Apparently they don't have a fully dressed SHO replacement engine. Do those come from Ford Racing ? Maybe only for a F150. Would that work just need to use our upper intake ??

here is  a demo of the HFPF I think ??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdYDRXsG6Qc

I guess if I had to get a new engine I'd consider getting a Livernois built engine, but how much power does just the longblock add and at what point does the higher power start really breaking other things ? trans etc...