17 DTC'S dead battery @ 125k miles....???

[SHOdded]

Looks like you will have to remove the engine from the SHO to get access to do the work, because you have to first remove the camshafts and valve tappets to get to the Valve Spring, Retainer and Seal.

BTW, there aren't any roller rockers in this system.

The valve train uses Direct Acting Mechanical Buckets (DAMB). The camshaft lobes are positioned directly above mechanical buckets which are positioned on top of the valves.

Valve Clearance Check
Remove the valve covers. For additional information, refer to Valve Cover — LH and Valve Cover — RH in this section.
NOTE: Engine must be at room temperature before measuring. The valve clearance must be measured with the camshaft at base circle. The engine will have to be rotated with the crankshaft pulley bolt to bring each valve to base circle.

Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance of each valve and record its location. A midrange clearance is the most desirable:
Intake: 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.01 in)
Exhaust: 0.360-0.460 mm (0.0142-0.0181 in)

NOTE: The number on the valve tappet reflects the thickness of the valve tappet. For example, a tappet with the number 3.310 has the thickness of 3.31 mm (0.13 in).

If any of the valve clearances are out of specification, select new tappets using this formula: tappet thickness = measured clearance + the base tappet thickness - most desirable thickness.
Select the tappets and mark the installation location.
If required, install the new selected valve tappets in the marked locations. For additional information, refer to Valve Tappets in this section.

[68_GT]

from what I can tell the overhead cams sit on a little rocker that pushes down on a lifter. There a tool that presses on the spring to pull the rocker out then the lifter comes out.

[68_GT]

are these cams sitting directly on the lifters on top of the valves ?

[SHOdded]

Basically, the camshaft sits directly above the valves with different thickness pucks (or shims) for adjustment.  I believe this is very similar to the valvetrain in the Yamaha SHOs.

[SHOdded]

The concept is alike to the Shim-over-bucket "adjusters" explained in this article here
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/why-do-bikes-use-shim-under-bucket-valve-adjusters

See the HowTo for the Top 60K service on Gen 1/2 SHOs
http://web.archive.org/web/20110506202226/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/upper60k/upper60k.htm

Search for "Then loosen all of the spark plugs a few turns" read from there on down.  Also note this will be a good time to check the shims for damage.

[68_GT]

wow,,,, so is my local Ford dealer incapable of doing that or unwilling to because they want me to buy an engine ?

who does this kind of work

maybe its not that bad

[SHOdded]

It is a tedious list of steps, but any competent mechanic should be able to get it done.  IF I went that far down the rabbit hole, though, I would look at everything while the engine was out, including the bottom end.  Seems like you have mechanics you can work with?  Might make financial sense then.  As to parts availability, I can't say 4 sure, as we haven't had anyone do this work yet (and post about it).

8   BL3Z-6571-A   Valve Seals $2.84   $2.00   
9   AA5Z-6513-A   Valve Springs TAURUS; W/TURBO $4.25   $2.74   
10   7T4Z-6514-AA   Valve Spring Retainers TAURUS $5.45   $3.51   
11   1S7Z-6518-AA   Valve Keeper TAURUS $4.75   $3.05   
12   AT4Z-6500-AAA   Valve Lifters TAURUS $11.93   $7.68   

[68_GT]

in that link it didn't say why that whole job was necessary,,,,, I would guess once I removed my valve cover it might be obvious which shim might need to be replaced upon a visual inspection ??

It might not be too bad if it's just one or 2. Doing the entire engine might be a real nuisance.

[68_GT]

think I'll pull valve cover and have a look my self. Is it OK to remove these quick connect hoses to move them out of the way ?

[ZSHO]

think I'll pull valve cover and have a look my self. Is it OK to remove these quick connect hoses to move them out of the way ?

Yes but be careful with the fuel vapor hose,red clip.
BTW fixed the pic for ya.  Z

[glock-coma]

The 2 with the white clip are vacuum lines, those are fine to remove.
The red clip one is fuel. Not sure if it's pressurized or a return to the tank.
EXERCISE CAUTION IF YOU REMOVE IT.

[68_GT]

Yeah I think only the white clip hoses will have to be removed to get it off. What is the module attached to the valve cover there ?

Should I assume the valve cover gasket will not be reusable ? I just want to peek under the cover for now. A shop wanted $350 to look at it.

Oh and thanks for helping with the pic adjustment !

[derfdog15]

The 2 with the white clip are vacuum lines, those are fine to remove.
The red clip one is fuel. Not sure if it's pressurized or a return to the tank.
EXERCISE CAUTION IF YOU REMOVE IT.

Especially since the clip has been known to be brittle and break upon removal, from what I have seen other members post.

[ZSHO]

IMHO would not remove the rear valve cover on a temporary basis because there is a silicone/sealant holding it together so essentially you will have to remove the old sealant carefully and install new silicone/sealant and let it cure for a while and also need to torque down the bolts properly to oem specs.  Z

[68_GT]

ticking engine video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyToDADRWcg