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Alignment JACKED after new ptu install

Started by shweetpickens, January 11, 2017, 09:15:17 PM

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shweetpickens

I need some major help with my alignment.  Ill try to make this short.   Megan coil overs installed and alignment performed by the same shop six months ago. Alignment was basically spot on. Last week my PTU failed and the dealership replaced it for free under warranty. It seems that they realigned it as well since they lowered the sub frame to install the ptu.

The car noticeably pulled to the left after I got it back from Ford. I gave it back to them and they spent hours and could not get it back into good alignment specs. They agreed to pay my original shop to align it. I went back to the original shop who is basically an expert in race alignments and they couldn't get it back within spec either.  They messed with a few things and got some areas of the alignment better but now some areas are even worse. When I gas it ,it pulls left harder and when I let off the gas it pulls back to the right. Front camber is negative 1.1 on the right and zero on the left, and front caster is 4.5 on the right which is a decent amount out of spec and nobody seems to know how to fix any of this.  Help!!!

derfdog15

I would check tie rods, and all points that connect the steering to the frame, especially near the PTU. Seems they may have disconnected something and put it back incorrectly/not at all.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

SHOdded

Yeah, if they lowered the subframe, all steering and suspension components are suspect.  Wouldn't be surprised if a control arm is involved.  It should pull to the right upon acceleration, if anything, that is how cars in the US are designed.

There was a TSB for the Edge at one time that specified subframe alignment as the fix for a drift/pull issue

The coilovers have been doublechecked, I take it.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

shweetpickens

Thanks for the ideas.  As far as i can tell the coilovers were untouched during ptu swap.  I will pass this along to the 3rd alignment shop im going to next week.  They have a very good rep so i have high hopes.  Since my car has never been wrecked i cant imagine this being an unsolvable problem, but it really helps to get ideas to pass along to the alignment tech.

So i take it that front caster and camber arent adjustable, but screwing around with the subframe could get the numbers back to normal?  My original alignment shop made some prgress unbolting it and slightly moving it, but not quite enough

Dxlnt1

#4
Quote from: shweetpickens on January 12, 2017, 12:22:11 AM
Thanks for the ideas.  As far as i can tell the coilovers were untouched during ptu swap.  I will pass this along to the 3rd alignment shop im going to next week.  They have a very good rep so i have high hopes.  Since my car has never been wrecked i cant imagine this being an unsolvable problem, but it really helps to get ideas to pass along to the alignment tech.

So i take it that front caster and camber arent adjustable, but screwing around with the subframe could get the numbers back to normal?  My original alignment shop made some prgress unbolting it and slightly moving it, but not quite enough

Trying to understand how you figure the camber or caster is NOT adjustable? They are essential and what make up the alignment itself.

What I would look at is tire wear. Based on how tires are wearing you can tell if alignment is an issue or not. Or if something in drivetrain as been mentioned.

If no excessive wear from outta spec caster, camber or toe-in measurements, then there is an issue with drivetrain. You state under acceleration car pulls left, deceleration car pulls right. Sounds like drivetrain i.e. something spinning out of ratio. (shaft, axle, trans, mount) Check what car wants to do at rest (cruise). Then inspect sub frame mounts, trans mounts, axles for proper installation and damage.

Im no expert on PTU but also could be as simple as no fluid causing things to NOT rotate and spin properly. Car is compensating trying to stay square.





Alignment explained
http://en.intraxracing.nl/techniek/camber,-caster,-toe-intoe-out/
2011 SHO, 3 Bar, AJP Turbo-Tune, ACES IV, Boostane 170 T-stat, PPE Catted DP's, Alpine Sound system, Touch screen HVAC controls, full window tint

shweetpickens

#5
I know toe is adjustable with the tie rods.  I'm not familiar with an area where you can twist a nut or move something up front to dial in camber or caster without physically bending something.  If there is a way I would love to know so that I can pass it on to my next alignment shop on Tuesday when I go.  That's what I meant by not adjustable, but I hope to God they can figure out a way to adjust it.

I don't suspect anything wrong with the axle or ptu, since the axle is the same one I've always had, and my car wasn't pulling left and right under accel/deaccel until AFTER the SECOND alignment attempt.  It has always pulled left though after the ptu swap....

Also, the ptu swap and alignment mishap was only a week ago, so I do not expect to see a tire wear issue and do not intend to wait until I get one.

66 Galaxie

There is minor camber adjustment accomplished by rotating the strut mount.  A rotation of 180 degrees of the strut mount can change the camber up front by .5 degrees
'14 Flex Tuxedo Black ecoboost

pmezo33

Something wasn't installed correctly when putting everything back together.  That's the only logical explanation.  If this were me, I'd go through every single suspension component and make sure they're torqued to spec. I'd start with the front control arm ball joint and go from there. 

shweetpickens

I appreciate all of the advice.  I will pass along the technique for changing camber to the alignment tech.  Instead of bringing it back to ford a 3rd time (since they couldn't figure out the alignment already), I'm going to try one more place that seems to have a very good rep for all sorts of lowered cars next week.  I'll update the results

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Dxlnt1

Quote from: shweetpickens on January 13, 2017, 05:59:59 PM
I appreciate all of the advice.  I will pass along the technique for changing camber to the alignment tech.  Instead of bringing it back to ford a 3rd time (since they couldn't figure out the alignment already), I'm going to try one more place that seems to have a very good rep for all sorts of lowered cars next week.  I'll update the results

If I had to tell the suspension guy how to adjust camber/caster on my car, I wouldn't tell the suspension guy how to adjust camber/caster on my car!  NEXT!

Back to what I eluded to and PMEZO33 comments, something wasn't done right! Causing something else to be wrong! Have them reinstall the coil overs
2011 SHO, 3 Bar, AJP Turbo-Tune, ACES IV, Boostane 170 T-stat, PPE Catted DP's, Alpine Sound system, Touch screen HVAC controls, full window tint

66 Galaxie

Rereading the original posts I agree that issue is either with subframe alignment or a suspension component.  Based on the hard pull left when accelerating and pulling right when off the gas I would check control arm bushings on the passenger side.  A bad bushing here would allow for movement that would explain your pulling as well as possibly throwing off the alignment.
'14 Flex Tuxedo Black ecoboost

derfdog15

Any updates to this? I am really interested to know what the culprit component was/is.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

12ecobeast

So i had my ptu changed over a year ago. I did not have the same issue as you but i would also check this. The mounting bolts for the power steering rack are torqued to at least 150. When i turned my wheel i had a clunk. Thought my inner tierods were gome. But after diag for that it was not. So i had someone turn the wheel while i watched for the clunk. The PASS side mounting bolt was loose. The whole rack would shift. Checked the other one with my torque wrench maxed at 150. So at least that. Top nut is 1 1/4. Bottom 18 if i remember correctly

shweetpickens

So this is an old post and I realized I never updated the results.  It's been years so I'm going off of memory but the "expert" alignment shop I took it to discovered a bolt or something  loose somewhere around the control arm or something (can't remember).  The dealer apparently missed this.  I took it back to the dealer with this new info and they kept the car until they finally figured out the alignment problem.  It's fixed and since sold.  Traded it for a Lexus Gsf and couldn't be happier although I certainly miss the awd and stoplight drags