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Dealership is KILLING ME

Started by peppelepugh, November 30, 2016, 01:57:45 PM

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peppelepugh

Just had my brake booster replaced under warranty 2 weeks ago (had a bad seal and squeaked A LOT). Well right after, my brake lights would be stuck ON and my cruise control would cut off while driving when I hit a bump every now and again (since the pedal moved enough to trip the switch).  After some investigation (didn't take much) that the Brake Pedal Switch (SW5955) was being tripped with the brake pedal at rest because it wasn't going back far enough to close the circuit. It would be perfectly fine if I lifted the brake pedal with my foot, just enough to trip the switch.  So many times, my brake lights for a WHILE, causing a burnt out bulb...

So I take it back in, explain what was going on, and got my call back about it. Their mechanic says that it was NOT caused by replacing the booster and would be a new warranty claim.... Weird, because everything was PERFECTLY FINE before they touched it.  I asked the service manager why and explained to him how the brake pedal is not "resting" at the same position it was before causing all the erratic behavior.  He said his tech told him replacing the booster has no affect on the brake switch, meaning it's not on that same warranty claim.  He also told me since I have a brake light out explains why my cruise control does not work.  When I clearly told him that it cuts out randomly when I hit bumps.  They also don't like LED tail light bulbs, because they said everything isn't working properly because of the LED brake light and tail light and that 1 of them is out. Weird, it has worked for over 2 years!!! He tried telling me that they are willing to replace all of them with OEM bulbs... I'm debating about replacing them all, then taking them for a test drive to prove them wrong and ask them what they would like to do for me?

I'm pretty sure I don't have "SUCKER" written on my forehead, do I?

I'm debating about taking this up with a Ford Rep...

Any thoughts everyone?

2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!

AJP turbo

#1
Sucker!! Lol....no just kidding...sometime wrench monkies are hard to deal with as well as a guy in dress clothes  trying to explain and recite things from a service manual about turning wrenches....kick his ass c-bass!
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

SHOdded

The brake light switch is probably the most fouled up part of brake booster replacement.  It's like in the princess and the pea.  Move it just a little when you are not supposed to, and bam, new switch needed.

So is this part of the brake booster servicing issue?  Absolutely.  Should be replaced free to you?  Absolutely.  Raise Cain & Roust Ford? Do you need to guess my response???
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Quinid

I think u should go above the dealership and talk to Ford directly about this. Your dealership sounds a bit like mine....

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

2014 Blue Flex 303A Appearance package all stock
2000 F250 XLT 7.3L 410k miles
SOLD--2010 nonPP SHO  Unleashed 93 tune, 3 bar map, K&N drop in filter. PPE Catted Downpipes. VTA mod
1957 Chevy 3200 pickup 3 speed stock straight 6
1968 Camaro RS 3 speed 350 sb with vortec heads.

scoles92

Yeah i hate going to dealerships. last year i had a bad brake switch that was doing the same things as yours. So i bring it into the dealership to get my free oil change and ask if they can throw a new switch in for me because, HONESTLY, I was feeling lazy..

Anyhow I go back to get my car and the service manager tells me that I was right about the switch being the problem but that it costed me $180 to hook it up to the computer and figure it out..

then he quotes me like $200 to replace it.. i told him that is was a $23 part and would take me 3 minutes to change so no way in hell would i give him $200. he laughed at me and said that there is a lot of wiring involved and that it would take a tech well over an hour..

Well he was right, it didnt take 3 minutes it took me 2.....
2011 ford Taurus SHO PP  unleashed tunes, 3 bar, plugs,K&N intake, stage 3 water meth.

peppelepugh

He told me that they installed OEM bulbs and it fixed the problem. I told him that's fine, leave them in so I can show you that the brake switch is still an issue after the booster replacement.

the next hour or so will determine if I return or not. If they keep throwing me around the ringer... I'll be 0 for 2 in the cinci area.... Might have to start moving my way up to Dayton and hitting up Mrs. FoMoCoSHO's dealership. hahaha
2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!

FoMoCoSHO