Light Clunk from Passenger Side

[lattyd]

Issue is now resolved. It was a binding strut mount / bearing on the passenger side.

I had both replaced when I had the shop do the front springs for my H&R's this afternoon (I did the rears myself).

No more clunk.... better handling.... great looks. I'm a happy camper now.

[SHOdded]

Awesome   Enjoy!

[ZSHO]

That's music to my ears and glad it worked out for ya.  Z

[lattyd]

I was so excited to get the SHO back that I forgot to ask for the hub back... Wanted to see if there was any obvious binding without load on it.... But o-well, at less than $50 per mount I guess your almost better off replacing it if you suspect it's going bad... Especially if the spring was "popping" visibly.

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[6500rpm]

Thanks for posting this, it's a fairly common failure on Ford vehicles in the fleet, more so on Fiesta, Focus, and Fusion. Upper bearing turn plate breaks. I've never seen one on a Taurus, can you tell me if it contains plastic in the bearing plate? That seems to be the failure point in the other models. Typically a clunk thud heard when you turn the wheel back and forth usually in the same point of rotation (As you, or an assistant turn the wheel you can typically find a sweet spot where the noise occurs).

[lattyd]

I don't remember anything obviously plastic about it, wish I would have taken some pics before having it done.

The top / plate where it mounts was metal with a rubber surround that the spring pushed up against

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[lattyd]

Went to get an alignment and now I have a new issue lol

Drivers side rear lateral link has some play to it. Belle tire wanted $700 for parts and install (replace as pair), looks like I can get both for for $250 at Tasca.

I did verify myself once I got home as well. Small amount of play at the tie-rod looking end.. tried taking it off and re-seating it but no luck. Haven't noticed any clunking or vibrations from the rear end but I dont put alot of miles on or travel highway much.

There is always something 🙄

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[ZSHO]

Pmezo33 had some great luck using the Motorcrafts listed below. Z


http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7536.msg115013.html#msg115013

[lattyd]

Thanks so much ZSHO (and pmezo33). Looks like he had no issues with the "updated" cheaper part.

Let me just say, you and the whole EBPF community are a fantastic group!

[lattyd]

Quick update:
Links installed and worked great (the 2013+ links). Car is now aligned and handles great with the H&R's.

I'll make a post / thread later today or tomorrow with some pics, part numbers, and tool requirements for those that may want (or need to) tackle this in the future by themselves.

[ZSHO]

Great to hear things went accordingly and without a hitch.
Looking forward to your post and initial results. Z

[pmezo33]

Looks like I'm late to the party.  Glad to hear my thread helped someone else out. 

Just shows how ridiculous some of these shops can be.  $700 for a job that costs about $80 and an hour or two of your time.  $40 if you do just one side like i did.

[lattyd]

No kidding, you saved me a bundle. $80 in parts plus $62 (with coupon) for a 4-wheel alignment which I needed anyways for the H&R's...  Can't go wrong.

I had less than 2 hours into it including me double checking Bell Tire's findings before ordering the parts.

Thanks again my EcoBoost brother

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[peppelepugh]

hey Lattyd, on your strut mount/bearing replacement. did you run into any hiccups? My taurus is going through the same thing right now, I already ordered a new MC strut mount/bearing. Did you replace the spring lower insulator as well?  I was gonna tackle it last night but came across this video https://youtu.be/rE9VkewyFqQ?list=WL&t=175 , figured I'd ask around before I dove into her too far.
ftp://! No longer available

[pmezo33]

I don't know why the guy in that video couldn't get a wrench on the lower control arm ball joint nut.  Just use a long 24mm wrench and it's pretty easy to break loose.  Might need a little penetrating oil if it's rusted on, but you shouldn't.  Use a little force and that nut is pretty easy to break loose and remove for clearance.  You're not going to get a socket on there, but a wrench is no problem.