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Leaking Coolant Out Water Pump / Timing Chain Rattle

Started by salsathe4th, November 21, 2016, 09:17:42 PM

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salsathe4th

My car has now begun to leak coolant slowly out from what i can tell is the weep hole along with a slight and random pinging from the timing chain ONLY at idle. I can only assume that the pump is about to go any minute and the rattle is from the pump bearings failing causing the chain to hit the side of the engine. I have decided not to drive the car any further in caution of the water pump dumping all of the coolant into my oil like what happened to this flex...

https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14512

I just got a quote from Rad Air for $1500 before tax to change pump, tensioner, and chain. I think i ignored my timing chain rattle too long and it ended up messing up the water pump. What a dumb design to have the water pump inside the engine, they are only designed to last so long.... Thankfully i caught this right away since i dont have the bottom engine skirt and cover on until the winter in case of leaks like this. Thankfully i see no coolant on the dipstick and no oil in the coolant resovoir.

I would like to warn everyone with the start up rattle that you should get it fixed ASAP and not wait too long like me. I saw a post on here from last year with this happening to someone's SHO here is the link

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5363.0.html
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda

SHOdded

Ah, thought we had this issue licked :(  Does rear its ugly head time to time on the Cyclone engines as well, though there is no preceding rattle/warning.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

AJP turbo

I didnt think the water pumps had weeps holes like the old ones and i dont think you can see it anyway because its in the timing case.

The rattle i think is just the chain hitting the guides and fords have been doing this for 20 years lol
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

glock-coma

Not my pic but I saved this awhile back. It shows the pump at the bottom of the chain "v"

2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

salsathe4th

Here is a video how to change it on a flex if anyone wants to try this job themselves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjMgagyP0SI&list=FLEl2YyZsAd4dsSaEAhm88sw&index=2

I just wanted to start this thread since there will most likely be more and more vehicles with this problem as many ecoboost 2010+ are just now getting over 100,000 miles.
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda